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Muztagh Tower

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Nearly five decades after Vittorio Sella's photograph was taken, in 1956, his image served as inspiration for two separate expeditions that raced to achieve the first ascent of Mustagh Tower. Interestingly, both teams discovered that the mountain's routes were less steep than what Sella's photograph
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during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. The picture was taken from the upper Baltoro, from a vantage point located due southeast of the mountain. In this photograph, the twin summits of Mustagh Tower appeared perfectly aligned, giving the mountain the appearance of a slender tooth and making it
454:, André Contamine, and Paul Keller, who climbed the mountain from the east. François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp. 446:, approached the peak from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side and successfully reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge on July 6. They achieved this feat five days ahead of the French team, consisting of 498:
and Dejan Miškovič. They bivouacked on the crest after 17 hours of climbing. They decided not to go to the summit because of strong wind. Just after they started descending, Kozjek fell to his death.
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seem extremely impregnable. This image was featured in a book on mountaineering in 1941 with the caption "The Last Citadel".
509:. Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko and Alexander Lange reached the top and made a new route. The ascent lasted for 17 days. 519: 336: 867: 401:
Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. Muztagh Tower is located between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.
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2012 On the day of 25 August, 56 years after the day when the first man climbed to the top of this mountain, three
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A lower summit, 7,180 m (23,560 ft) was first climbed in 1984 by the northeast ridge.
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2nd of route, 3rd of peak by Mal Duff, Tony Brindle, Jon Tinker and Sandy Allan (all UK).
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Summit Fever: The Story of an Armchair Climber on the 1984 Mustagh Tower Expedition
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range. It straddles the border of the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and the
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photograph of the Muztagh Tower, which was to inspire the first ascent
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The Mustagh Tower gained attention through a photograph captured by
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had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog,
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High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks
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Hartog, J.H. (1956). "The climbing of the Muztagh Tower".
353: 335: 326: 310: 296: 291: 277: 124: 85: 73: 63: 47: 42: 21: 829:"Interview with Dejan Miškovič (slovene language)" 774: 555:reports 7,273 metres elev. and 1,707 metres prom. 242: 200: 144: 525:List of Ultras of the Karakoram and Hindu Kush 341: 8: 389:: icy mountain), is a mountain situated in 581:High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering 544: 542: 540: 377: 350: 261: 251: 219: 209: 153: 24: 18: 773:Kropp, Göran; Lagercrantz, David (2000). 717:"The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower" 549:Prominent Karkoram peaks on peaklist.org 536: 868:"Short film about ascent (on english)" 598:. Hodder & Stoughton. p. 66. 323: 7: 831:. Sport1. 2008-09-12. Archived from 596:K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain 470:1990 The fourth ascent was made by 376: 897:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram 14: 777:Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey 566:"Muztagh Tower - Peakbagger.com" 241: 234: 199: 192: 143: 136: 31: 342: 16:Mountain in Pakistan and China 1: 892:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan 579:Ullman, James Ramsey (1941). 520:List of mountains in Pakistan 505:made an ascent by the centre 267:Show map of Southern Xinjiang 53:7,276 m (23,871 ft) 486:2008 On 24 August 2008, the 458:Notable ascents and attempts 393:, which is a segment of the 225:Show map of Gilgit Baltistan 69:1,710 m (5,610 ft) 913: 697:, The Mountaineers, 1989, 362: 349: 331: 129: 30: 429:First and second ascents 663:Magnone, Guido (1957). 337:Simplified Chinese 856:. Risk.ru. 2012-08-25. 802:Nunn, Paul (1991–92). 748:Greig, Andrew (1985). 583:. J. B. Lippincott Co. 417: 318:glacier/snow/ice climb 781:. Discovery Channel. 412: 183:Show map of Karakoram 179:China–Pakistan border 109:35.82667°N 76.36167°E 37:Muztagh Tower in 2004 642:. pp. 135–147. 594:Curran, Jim (1995). 665:"The Muztagh Tower" 640:One Man's Mountains 638:Patey, Tom (1971). 490:was climbed by two 264:(Southern Xinjiang) 105: /  811:The Alpine Journal 724:The Alpine Journal 715:Duff, Mal (1985). 621:The Alpine Journal 444:Ian McNaught-Davis 418: 222:(Gilgit Baltistan) 114:35.82667; 76.36167 43:Highest point 703:978-0-898-86238-6 669:Himalayan Journal 605:978-0-340-66007-2 452:fr:Robert Paragot 366: 365: 358: 357: 322: 321: 302:6 July 1956 by a 59: 904: 876: 875: 870:. Archived from 864: 858: 857: 850: 844: 843: 841: 840: 825: 819: 818: 808: 804:"Karakoram 1990" 799: 793: 792: 780: 770: 764: 763: 745: 739: 738: 736: 735: 721: 712: 706: 691: 685: 684: 682: 680: 660: 654: 653: 635: 629: 628: 616: 610: 609: 591: 585: 584: 576: 570: 569: 562: 556: 546: 414:Vittorio Sella's 405:Early prominence 380: 379: 351: 345: 344: 324: 314: 281: 268: 263: 253: 245: 244: 238: 226: 221: 211: 203: 202: 196: 184: 166:Gilgit–Baltistan 155: 147: 146: 140: 120: 119: 117: 116: 115: 110: 106: 103: 102: 101: 98: 55: 35: 26: 19: 912: 911: 907: 906: 905: 903: 902: 901: 882: 881: 880: 879: 866: 865: 861: 852: 851: 847: 838: 836: 827: 826: 822: 806: 801: 800: 796: 789: 772: 771: 767: 760: 747: 746: 742: 733: 731: 719: 714: 713: 709: 692: 688: 678: 676: 662: 661: 657: 650: 637: 636: 632: 618: 617: 613: 606: 593: 592: 588: 578: 577: 573: 564: 563: 559: 547: 538: 533: 516: 465:Northwest Ridge 460: 431: 407: 391:Baltoro Muztagh 312: 279: 273: 272: 271: 270: 269: 266: 265: 260: 257: 256: 255: 254: 250: 246: 229: 228: 227: 224: 223: 218: 215: 214: 213: 212: 208: 204: 187: 186: 185: 182: 181: 169: 159: 158: 157: 156: 152: 148: 113: 111: 107: 104: 99: 96: 94: 92: 91: 54: 38: 23: 17: 12: 11: 5: 910: 908: 900: 899: 894: 884: 883: 878: 877: 874:on 2013-07-30. 859: 845: 820: 794: 787: 765: 758: 752:. Hutchinson. 740: 707: 705:, pp. 117-118. 686: 655: 648: 630: 611: 604: 586: 571: 557: 535: 534: 532: 529: 528: 527: 522: 515: 512: 511: 510: 507:Northeast Face 499: 488:Northeast Face 480: 479: 468: 459: 456: 430: 427: 422:Vittorio Sella 406: 403: 364: 363: 360: 359: 356: 355: 354:Transcriptions 347: 346: 339: 333: 332: 329: 328: 320: 319: 316: 308: 307: 300: 294: 293: 289: 288: 283: 275: 274: 258: 248: 247: 240: 239: 233: 232: 231: 230: 216: 206: 205: 198: 197: 191: 190: 189: 188: 160: 150: 149: 142: 141: 135: 134: 133: 132: 131: 130: 127: 126: 122: 121: 89: 83: 82: 77: 71: 70: 67: 61: 60: 51: 45: 44: 40: 39: 36: 28: 27: 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 909: 898: 895: 893: 890: 889: 887: 873: 869: 863: 860: 855: 849: 846: 835:on 2009-03-01 834: 830: 824: 821: 816: 812: 805: 798: 795: 790: 788:1-56331-936-5 784: 779: 778: 769: 766: 761: 759:0-09-162060-0 755: 751: 744: 741: 729: 725: 718: 711: 708: 704: 700: 696: 690: 687: 674: 670: 666: 659: 656: 651: 649:0-575-01358-3 645: 641: 634: 631: 626: 622: 615: 612: 607: 601: 597: 590: 587: 582: 575: 572: 567: 561: 558: 554: 550: 545: 543: 541: 537: 530: 526: 523: 521: 518: 517: 513: 508: 504: 500: 497: 493: 489: 485: 484: 483: 477: 476:Rafael Jensen 473: 469: 466: 462: 461: 457: 455: 453: 449: 448:Guido Magnone 445: 441: 437: 428: 426: 423: 415: 411: 404: 402: 400: 396: 392: 388: 384: 383:Mustagh Tower 374: 370: 369:Muztagh Tower 361: 352: 348: 340: 338: 334: 330: 327:Muztagh Tower 325: 317: 315: 313:Easiest route 309: 305: 301: 299: 295: 290: 287: 284: 282: 276: 259:Muztagh Tower 249:Muztagh Tower 237: 217:Muztagh Tower 207:Muztagh Tower 195: 180: 176: 172: 167: 163: 151:Muztagh Tower 139: 128: 123: 118: 90: 88: 84: 81: 78: 76: 72: 68: 66: 62: 58: 52: 50: 46: 41: 34: 29: 22:Muztagh Tower 20: 872:the original 862: 848: 837:. 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Retrieved 672: 668: 658: 639: 633: 624: 620: 614: 595: 589: 580: 574: 560: 506: 496:Pavle Kozjek 487: 481: 464: 432: 419: 386: 382: 368: 367: 298:First ascent 280:Parent range 494:alpinists, 472:Göran Kropp 378:مز تاغ ٹاور 262:مز تاغ ٹاور 252:مز تاغ ٹاور 220:مز تاغ ٹاور 210:مز تاغ ٹاور 154:مز تاغ ٹاور 112: / 87:Coordinates 57:Ranked 90th 25:مز تاغ ٹاور 886:Categories 839:2008-09-16 734:2011-04-13 679:4 February 627:: 253–270. 553:Peakbagger 171:Tashkurgan 168:, Pakistan 100:76°21′42″E 97:35°49′36″N 65:Prominence 492:Slovenian 440:Tom Patey 436:Joe Brown 395:Karakoram 286:Karakoram 177:, China, 162:Baltistan 125:Geography 49:Elevation 514:See also 503:Russians 399:Xinjiang 381:), also 292:Climbing 175:Xinjiang 730:: 74–76 675:: 40–50 387:Muztagh 304:British 75:Listing 817:: 241. 785:  756:  701:  646:  602:  343:慕士塔格塔峰 807:(PDF) 720:(PDF) 531:Notes 463:1984 80:Ultra 783:ISBN 754:ISBN 699:ISBN 681:2020 644:ISBN 600:ISBN 474:and 442:and 373:Urdu 306:team 888:: 815:96 813:. 809:. 728:90 726:. 722:. 673:20 671:. 667:. 625:61 623:. 551:; 539:^ 450:, 438:, 385:; 375:: 173:, 164:, 842:. 791:. 762:. 737:. 683:. 652:. 608:. 568:. 478:. 371:(

Index


Elevation
Ranked 90th
Prominence
Listing
Ultra
Coordinates
35°49′36″N 76°21′42″E / 35.82667°N 76.36167°E / 35.82667; 76.36167
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Karakoram
Baltistan
Gilgit–Baltistan
Tashkurgan
Xinjiang
China–Pakistan border
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Southern Xinjiang
Parent range
Karakoram
First ascent
British
Easiest route
Simplified Chinese
Urdu
Baltoro Muztagh
Karakoram
Xinjiang

Vittorio Sella's
Vittorio Sella
Joe Brown

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