Knowledge (XXG)

Madurai Sungudi

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alkaline earth. In this process, the fabric dipped in the solution is tamped well by foot several times and kept in a wet state for 2–3 days. It is then taken out and washed in the Vaigai River water (the water of this river is believed to give a special sheen to the fabric) and then dried. This process is repeated over a week. After washing and drying, the fabric is subjected to dyeing in a vat with a solution of alizarine red and
160:. It was registered by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under the title "Madurai Sungudi" and recorded under GI Application number 21, Class 24 - Textile and Textile Goods and Class 25 – Clothing including Sarees and Rumal, as a textile product. The GI tag was approved on 12 December 2005. 345:
are more than 20,000 puttas or knots which are spaced uniformly and stitched by a single thread. The "pallu" (loose end of a saree) part of the saree or the fabric is made in a contrast colour by tying it firmly before subjecting it to a further process of treating in a solution of groundnut oil and
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A special characteristic of the Sungudi saree is that the knots created along the lines of the fabric cloth with red pigment prevent colours from intruding into the knotted part of the fabric when it is subject to the dyeing process in the vat. After the dyeing process, the knots are released by
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in which the warp and weft are made of 80s and 100s combed /carded yarn respectively. Then this fabric is subjected to the tie and dye process. The fabric is first bleached and printed with motifs. Then it is subject to the process of tying the knot called as
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It takes 10 to 15 days to make a traditional Sundgudi saree, with women involved in the tying process while the dyeing process is outsourced. This saree is a traditional dress of women of some communities worn during marriages.
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removing the thread and the knotted parts. In the traditional dyeing process, vegetable dyes are used to obtain different colours. However, in the modern dyeing process artificial chemical dyes (aniline) like
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To encourage this cottage industry, the government of Tamil Nadu has exempted the sale of this fabric from levy of sales tax since 1959. In view of its unique design and quality it is also exported.
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The Madurai Sungudi, produced in Madurai city, a cottage industry product, is given protection under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act (GI Act) 1999 of the
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In recent years, in view of tough competition from other textile fabrics, to meet the market demand this fabric, "sungudi" as it is commonly known, is made with modern designs and techniques of
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While the dotted designs of the fabric are inspired by cosmic stars, its knotting pattern is a copy of the knots with which women tie their hair.
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word "sunnam" meaning "round", representing the circular dots that are printed on the fabric as a prominent and special motif.
553: 1935: 1346: 1117: 512: 685: 1910: 1915: 1900: 1890: 1250: 306:, created a gift item of cotton fabric suited for use in the tropical conditions, and called it the "Madurai Sungdi." 1761: 639: 225: 201: 1925: 1920: 1864: 1812: 1376: 814: 726: 711: 655: 29: 736: 624: 1930: 1551: 1326: 721: 1608: 1471: 907: 859: 217: 1381: 926: 695: 690: 310: 189: 157: 1691: 1670: 1110: 979: 966: 942: 915: 665: 619: 252: 141: 137: 1741: 1731: 1356: 1336: 1306: 670: 291: 185: 118: 1796: 1771: 1386: 1366: 1351: 1225: 1190: 772: 762: 752: 629: 1650: 1464: 1316: 1245: 1240: 1170: 777: 145: 122: 574: 1838: 1791: 1568: 1440: 1220: 1200: 1175: 1165: 1027: 987: 864: 809: 767: 731: 675: 264: 240: 213: 197: 1895: 1884: 1786: 1696: 1556: 1278: 1235: 1230: 1142: 1134: 1103: 1065: 1062: 1003: 950: 899: 757: 276: 268: 221: 209: 1869: 1756: 1665: 1640: 1445: 1283: 1215: 1011: 1006: 894: 891: 886: 833: 173: 516: 559:. Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks : Government of India 1701: 1645: 1630: 1561: 1424: 1361: 1311: 1293: 1270: 1260: 1195: 1180: 1147: 1073: 1019: 998: 958: 716: 256: 114: 1751: 1655: 1587: 1414: 1409: 1396: 1371: 1321: 1301: 1157: 971: 918: 851: 843: 680: 660: 102: 1848: 1711: 1527: 1255: 1054: 982: 923: 910: 883: 355: 328:
The primary input to make this fabric is woven unbleached cotton fabric or
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in the 17th century. The fabric's traditional popular use is as a
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are used to obtain the red, blue and other colour effects.
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Cotton fabric with tie and dye method of traditional prints
1456: 341:" work. In a fabric of more than 6 yards, the number of 1095: 1594: 1585: 1566: 1532: 1516: 456:"Madurai Sungudi' needs patronage to revive its glory" 350:
leaves. After dyeing the fabric is steamed and dried.
121:, who migrated to Madurai under the patronage of King 172:, which is located in Tamil Nadu on the banks of the 426:"Call for museum to keep 'dyeing' Sungudi art alive" 1857: 1826: 1805: 1684: 1618: 1494: 1433: 1395: 1292: 1269: 1156: 1133: 1047: 935: 876: 823: 802: 786: 745: 704: 648: 612: 80: 72: 64: 54: 46: 35: 23: 290:people). In order to please the local kings, the 294:of Madurai, who were expert craftsmen in fabric 279:welcomed them. Here, they came to be known as " 1472: 1111: 590: 109:product traditionally produced using tie and 8: 1818:Traditional dyes of the Scottish Highlands 1479: 1465: 1457: 1118: 1104: 1096: 597: 583: 575: 554:"Statetuent Of Case:Madurai Sunqudi Saree" 20: 481: 479: 477: 450: 448: 446: 513:"G.I Application No.21 Madurai Sungudi" 414: 1906:Geographical indications in Tamil Nadu 606:Geographical indications in Tamil Nadu 548: 546: 544: 542: 540: 538: 536: 534: 7: 420: 418: 313:, the word 'sungudi' relates to the 16:Design of Madurai, Tamil Nadu, India 39:Textile signature art tradition of 184:From the 8th to 11th century, The 14: 255:to the royal families of ancient 487:"Colourful history of 'sungudi'" 271:. Some of them settled down in 275:, where the local king of the 1: 794:Mahabalipuram Stone Sculpture 686:Temple Jewellery of Nagercoil 196:) started migrating towards 1595: 1586: 1567: 1533: 1517: 1952: 1605: 243:and were involved in the 28: 1865:Glossary of dyeing terms 1685:Traditional textile dyes 815:Thirubuvanam Silk Sarees 671:Kovai Cora Cotton Sarees 228:Kings set up mercantile 105:, which is an exclusive 727:Swamimalai Bronze Icons 712:Eathomozhy Tall Coconut 656:Alleppey Green Cardamom 208:upon the invitation of 152:Geographical indication 30:Geographical indication 1612: 737:Virupakshi Hill Banana 625:Coimbatore Wet Grinder 430:The New Indian Express 1936:Textile arts of India 1611: 1552:Reactive dye printing 722:Sirumalai Hill Banana 263:became the attire of 860:Palani Panchamirtham 267:after the period of 200:due to the frequent 1911:History of clothing 911:Kalamkari Paintings 696:Thanjavur Paintings 691:Thanjavur Art Plate 168:Sungudi is made in 158:Government of India 1916:Indian handicrafts 1901:Economy of Madurai 1891:Culture of Madurai 1692:Armenian cochineal 1613: 967:Manapparai Murukku 666:East India Leather 620:Bhavani Jamakkalam 123:Thirumalai Naicker 1878: 1877: 1454: 1453: 1357:Mundum Neriyathum 1093: 1092: 954:Panneer Thratchai 462:. 4 December 2013 226:Thanjavur Maratha 190:Saurashtra region 93:is a design from 88: 87: 1943: 1772:Polish cochineal 1600: 1591: 1572: 1538: 1522: 1481: 1474: 1467: 1458: 1120: 1113: 1106: 1097: 916:Narasinghapettai 773:Thanjavur Veenai 763:Nachiarkoil Lamp 753:Chettinad Kottan 630:Kanchipuram Silk 599: 592: 585: 576: 569: 568: 566: 564: 558: 550: 529: 528: 526: 524: 509: 503: 502: 500: 498: 483: 472: 471: 469: 467: 452: 441: 440: 438: 436: 422: 202:Muslim invasions 117:) method by the 21: 1951: 1950: 1946: 1945: 1944: 1942: 1941: 1940: 1926:Painted fabrics 1921:Indian clothing 1881: 1880: 1879: 1874: 1853: 1822: 1801: 1680: 1614: 1603: 1490: 1485: 1455: 1450: 1429: 1391: 1288: 1265: 1152: 1129: 1124: 1094: 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Index

Geographical indication
Madurai
Madurai
Madurai
Indian state
Tamil Nadu
textile
dye
natural dyes
Saurashtrians
Thirumalai Naicker
saree
GI registration
block printing
wax printing
screen printing
Government of India
Madurai City
Vaigai River
Saurashtrians
Saurashtra region
Gujarat
Southern India
Muslim invasions
merchants
Chola
Pandya
Vijayanagara
Nayak
Thanjavur Maratha

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