242:, above, show a medium-length maud carried over the left shoulder and tied in a half-knot at the right hip. Scott's first description, above, and many portraits and statues of Scott, James Hogg and Robbie Burns, show a long maud draped over the left shoulder, brought diagonally around the body and passed over the left shoulder, with both ends reaching about waist height. In some pictures, the same length maud is wrapped in the same manner but over the right arm, instead of under, to form a sort of mantle. Scott's second description, above, describes the carrying of a long maud, wrapped around the waist and passed diagonally over the chest to fall behind the left shoulder.
222:... a Maud or Low Country plaid. It is a long piece of cloth about a yard wide wrapped loosely round the waist like a scarf & from thence brought across the breast & the end thrown over the left shoulder where it hangs loose like a Spanish Cloak. It is not of Tartan but of the natural colour of the wool with a very small black check which gives it a greyish look … A broad belt about his waist is also part of his costume – it served to retain one end of the Maud & occasionally to carry a large knife or dagger.
259:
172:
17:
251:
290:, they can be seen wearing a maud in portraits, etchings and statues. This romantic revival may have prolonged the use of the maud and saved it from extinction; writing in 1808, Allan Ramsay said, "The wide great-coat, and the round hat, are, frequently, adopted for the grey checked plaid or mawd, and the broad blue bonnet with its scarlet rim;" (p. 396).
180:
226:
The maud was therefore the outer garment of the shepherd or common man. It provided warmth amongst the Border hills, protection from the rain and was his blanket at night. The voluminous nature of the wrapped maud also meant that pockets or nooks, known as ‘maud neuks/nuiks', could be fashioned for
321:
Nor must we overlook the music—which, as it ought to be, was ancient—the orchestra consisting of a couple of bagpipes. The Percy pipers were the performers—the two Greens, father and son, the father, piper to the
Duchess Dowager of Northumberland, wearing the silver crescent on his arm; and the son,
213:
The plaid was never in use among the
Borderers, i.e. the Highland or tartan plaid; but there was, and is still used, a plaid with a very small cheque of black and grey, which we call a maud, and which, I believe, was very ancient; it is the constant dress of the shepherd, worn over one shoulder, and
338:
1666-80 required the dead to be shrouded and buried in pure
English wool. The Acts were in force until 1814 so rural folk being buried in their mauds may have accounted for many disappearing. Two more likely explanations were that mauds, as working garments, simply wore out; and that 19th century
157:
pattern. A maud also commonly has a border or inset border of the darker wool and between one and six bars of the darker wool at the ends. An analysis of various written and artistic works puts dimensions between 0.9m to 1.5m wide and between 2.5m and 3.5m long. While commercially-produced mauds
152:
A maud is a rectangular, woollen blanket with fringed ends. It is characteristically woven in small checks of dark and light wool; for example, black, blue or dark brown, and white, cream or light grey. The most common pattern is often called shepherd's check but some mauds are woven in a
361:
Few mills now weave mauds in the
Borders region. One has produced mauds in non-traditional and fashionable colours (such as light and dark orange, jade and red) in an attempt to attract modern buyers whilst another has positioned their product as a traditional Northumbrian collectable.
358:, and some of these will pair their tartan trews with a checkered maud. A very few others may be seen at gatherings wearing a maud with Western clothes. In any case, to the discerning observer, the maud is as much an item of cultural identity as is the kilt.
300:
He affected huge sticks, of which he had an immense collection, and he liked to throw a shepherd’s plaid over his shoulders... He was fond of clothing himself in honest homespun of the thickest texture, and of wearing huge broad-soled boots, guiltless of
158:
are often of one piece, many older and home-produced mauds woven on smaller looms are of two narrow lengths sewn lengthwise together. When woven to be joined, each length has a border along only one length, as pictured above.
200:
The dress of the peasantry is neat and becoming. The plaid or maud of the border, consisting of black and white, or blue and white checks, is almost universal among the men, and they arrange it with a good deal of
187:
The Rev. George Gunn provides an early reference of the maud as a shepherd's garment. Drawing from barony records of
Stichill, Roxburgh from 1655-1807, he said, "The maud, or shepherd's plaid, and the
334:
It would seem that use of the maud on the
Borders fell away towards the end of the 19th century and today, early mauds are relatively rare. One possible explanation is that England's
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marked the peasant's dress." (p.10). Supporting the maud being used by the common folk, whilst also noting it as a male garment, the Rev. Archibald Craig, writing in the
314:
339:
changes in fashion rendered the maud obsolete in favour of coats and then jumpers. In either case, old and un-needed mauds were probably thrown out.
89:. Her view seems to be backed by an old poem in Gaelic, "The Tale of Connal", recorded in Ross-shire in 1859, which has the line, "And wrapped my
193:
109:
was an early-19th-century noun for yarn and cloth used to make mauds, as in "a cloak of maldy", where it was pronounced "mawdy".
46:, Shepherd's check, Shepherd's plaid or Galashiels grey. It was in common use as an item of clothing in the southern counties of
549:
Letters of Sir Walter Scott, in Hill, R. J. (2013). Picturing
Scotland through the Waverly novels. Farnham, UK: Ashgate. p. 112.
263:
540:
Scott, W. (1811). Mr Bird’s picture – Chevy Chase. Blackwood’s
Edinburgh magazine (vol. 33). Edinburgh: Blackwood. p. 63.
386:
or "great kilt", an earlier form of the kilt, it was a large plaid (blanket) pleated by hand and belted around the waist
105:, meaning 'a parti-coloured cloth', by way of mispronunciation. However, the reverse is also said to be true, whereby
648:
296:, a prominent 19th-century Lancastrian poet and writer, was identified by his use of the shepherd's plaid or maud.
653:
531:
Craig, A. (1837). Parish of
Bedrule. New Statistical Account of Scotland (vol. 3). Edinburgh: Blackwood. p. 292.
347:
335:
306:
522:
Gunn, G. (1905). Records of the baron court of
Stichill 1655-1807. Edinburgh: Scottish Historical Society.
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In more recent decades, mauds have seen a modest revival as a part of Border Scots and Northern English
310:
374:, a long, pleated, tartan-cloth mantle, wrapped around the upper body and then thrown over the shoulder
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The garment is still worn on ceremonial occasions by Northumbrian pipers, especially the Ducal pipers.
322:
piper to the Duke of Northumberland, wearing His Grace's livery and badge, with the Northumbrian maud.
283:
171:
413:
258:
589:
Hakala, Taryn (2010). "A Great Man in Clogs: Performing Authenticity in Victorian Lancashire".
606:
189:
30:
579:
Ramsay, A. (1808). The gentle shepherd; A pastoral comedy. Edinburgh: Abernathy & Walker.
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271:
218:
On another occasion he described the wearing of what must have been a longer maud, writing:
42:) is a woollen blanket or plaid woven in a pattern of small black and white checks known as
37:
234:, painted by Joshua Cristall in 1816 shows a short maud carried wrapped around the waist.
67:
433:
Russell. (1894). "The Gaelic element in the spoken language of the south of Scotland".
642:
230:
The method of carrying the maud was dictated by its size and possibly local custom.
43:
570:
Moffat, A. (2015). Scotland: A history from the earliest times. Edinburgh: Birlinn.
424:
Moffat, A. (2015). Scotland: A history from the earliest times. Edinburgh: Birlinn.
20:
A maud, folded lengthwise, from Lanarkshire, Scotland. Place of manufacture unknown.
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The Craigy Bield by David Allan, 1786, showing shepherds of the Lothians in mauds.
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Spelling and pronunciation varies throughout the Border lands. It was written
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A description of the appearance, age and use of the maud is best summed up by
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435:
History of the Berwickshire Naturalists' Club, Instituted September 22, 1831
377:
250:
47:
403:
Wright, J. (ed.). (1905) The English Dialect Dictionary. London: Frowde
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559:
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Woman and the Feminine in Medieval and Early Modern Scottish Writing
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the carrying of ‘fairns' (food), other provisions and even lambs.
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is uncertain. Writing in 1894, Russell said that it came from the
632:
The Littles of the Border. VHS. (1998). Carlisle: Border Heritage.
486:
Supplement to the Etymological Dictionary of the Scottish Language
351:
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101:, meaning 'a coarse grey woollen cloth', which in turn comes from
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380:, a smaller tartan-cloth mantle, worn pinned to the left shoulder
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from 1820 due to its mention by fashionable Border Scots such as
355:
471:
Dunnigan, S. M.; Harker, C. M.; Newlyn, E. S. (eds.). (2004).
414:
https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails.aspx?ref=3781
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around". An alternate source is that the word derives from
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James Hogg wearing a maud, by Sir John Watson Gordon, 1830.
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Edwin Waugh, wearing a maud over his left shoulder, by (
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120:in southern Scotland and northern England but also
214:then drawn round the person, leaving one arm free.
132:in West Yorkshire. In long form, it was called a
286:and their wearing of it in public. Together with
183:Statue of Robbie Burns, Dumfries, by Amelia Hill.
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354:in their clan tartan rather than the Highland
270:The maud gained popularity as a symbol of the
315:Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle upon Tyne
8:
446:Urquhart, H. (1859). "The Tale of Connal".
558:"Maud". Retrieved February 16, 2016, from
459:"Maud". Retrieved February 14, 2016, from
140:, and in parts of south-west Scotland, a
124:in parts of Scotland and Northumberland,
510:Maud. Retrieved February 16, 2016, from
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623:Gateshead Observer, 7th February 1857.
7:
350:, and many Borderers choose to wear
305:The garment is also associated with
560:http://www.dsl.ac.uk/entry/snd/maud
512:http://www.dsl.ac.uk/entry/snd/maud
450:. Edinburgh: Edmonston and Douglas.
448:Popular tales of the West Highlands
194:New Statistical Account of Scotland
54:until the early twentieth century.
475:. Basingstoke: Palgrave MacMillan.
412:The Scottish Register of Tartans.
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499:The English Dialect Dictionary
484:Jamieson, J. (1825). "Maldy".
1:
346:. The maud is often worn by
50:and the northern counties of
238:by Thomas Brooks (1846) and
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313:played at a dinner of the
603:10.2979/vic.2010.52.3.387
497:Wright, J. (ed.). (1905)
461:http://www.dictionary.com
236:The Shepherd's Sweetheart
196:for Roxburghshire, said:
336:Burying in Woollen Acts
307:Northumbrian smallpipes
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62:The origin of the word
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284:Henry Scott Riddell
488:. Edinburgh: Tait.
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128:in Lancashire and
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649:Scottish clothing
591:Victorian Studies
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309:. In 1857,
294:Edwin Waugh
246:Popular use
190:blue bonnet
155:houndstooth
148:Description
142:Moffat maud
138:herd's maud
38:Low Country
643:Categories
597:(3): 387.
437:, Vol. 14.
391:References
372:Full plaid
330:Modern use
280:James Hogg
611:1527-2052
378:Fly plaid
58:Etymology
366:See also
48:Scotland
301:polish.
266:, 1882)
93:maundal
81:maundal
52:England
31:Lowland
609:
201:taste.
103:medley
73:maudal
68:Gaelic
28:(also
352:trews
130:maund
107:maldy
99:maldy
87:plaid
40:plaid
33:plaid
607:ISSN
356:kilt
282:and
122:maad
118:mawd
114:maud
64:maud
26:maud
599:doi
162:Use
126:mad
116:or
77:or
35:or
645::
605:.
595:52
593:.
317::
278:,
144:.
24:A
613:.
601::
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