Knowledge (XXG)

Melungtse

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Melungtse was off limits to climbing until quite recently. The first attempt was made in Oct 1982 when Bill Denz made a strictly illegal attempt on the southeast ridge, after sneaking over the border from Nepal's Rolwaling Valley. However he turned back while still low on the route. In 1987 and 1988
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The peak has a long summit ridge capped by the east (main) summit and the west summit, also known as Melungtse II, 7,023m. The mountain's steep faces make it more difficult than its elevation would suggest.
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on the west summit, but did not climb the main summit. Another attempt in 1990, this time on the East Ridge of the main summit, failed well below the top.
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Melungtse (7181 m) from an aircraft. Main summit in the background, Melungtse II is the left peak on the ridge in the foreground.
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border, on a western spur ridge coming out of the main north-south trending ridge of the Rolwaling Himal, in
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ascended the dangerous, 2000m southeast face in less than two and a half days up and down.
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lists only one other attempt on Melungtse, a failed attempt via the North Face in 1999.
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led two expeditions, with the second one succeeding in putting
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High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks
455:(63). New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club: 284–286. 426:(62). New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club: 275–278. 447:
Bonington, Chris (1989). "Menlungtse Western Summit".
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October 23, 1992 by Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj
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Index


Elevation
Prominence
Listing
Ultra
Coordinates
27°58′21″N 86°25′54″E / 27.97250°N 86.43167°E / 27.97250; 86.43167
Melungtse is located in Tibet
China
Tibet
Parent range
Rolwaling Himal
Himalayas
First ascent
Easiest route
Chinese
Standard Tibetan
Chinese
pinyin
mountain
Rolwaling Himal
Himalayas

Gauri Sankar
Nepal
China
Tingri County
Shigatse Prefecture
Tibet
Gauri Sankar

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