272:
in a post-recession
England economy was due to massive population losses, wherein wages rose due to lack of labour and with a considerably smaller populace, farmers could focus more on producing livestock and speciality crops instead of just grain—which improved people's diets and health as a result. The general population was engaging more into the market economy with higher living standards present and their immediate needs taken care of. The company capitalised on this opportunity to expand as a driving force of the new England economy, wherein provincial towns previously not visited by mercers soon became part of a complex and established market system of trade. In addition, to this the development of the mercery trade in the late 13th century was uniquely abetted by the Black Death, due to the drop in population—wherein post-recession ordinary men and women could afford to buy higher standards of clothing to dress themselves better.
288:
206:. Mercery became associated with silk, linen, and various piece goods, especially high-quality products such as dress accessories, small luxuries and beddings—different from the simple everyday wear of the masses, which would typically be made of either linen or wool. The trade of silk and expensive clothes set apart the profession of a mercer from that of a general merchant, as was formally outlined under trading regulations in London; as a major trading hub of the time, the number of mercers was sufficiently extensive as to allow certain goods to be clearly defined as mercery, in laws specifically aimed to control prices and protect local mercers through supply and demand.
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wife, the average mercery unit of the mass. The company stopped promoting the importance of silk piece goods in favor of more expensive opportunities. They stopped the focus on monopolizing linen as a primary form of revenue. The lack of introspection by the wealthy mercers into the struggle of the merchants who did not profit from the silk trade like the elite did caused the rapid loss of control of the textiles market.
377:
1750:
1737:
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The downfall of the mercery trade as a once highly sought avenue to bridge the gap from the lower class to upper-middle class was due to the negligence of the
Mercery Company, who disrespected the common artisan and retailer, disregarding the foundations of their success in the working mercer and his
245:
Besides the trade and manufacture of expensive cloths, mercers were also concerned with a wide variety of piece goods which had a large market in London, as they were more affordable for commoners than supplies of the materials they were made from, such as silk, linen, and cheaper substitutes such as
428:
Other piece goods that mercers dealt with were manufactured from other materials; they ranged from pins and needles to bells and knives, which were bought less frequently when people had money to spare for useful trinkets. The inventory of these items, although not made of a fabric, was increasingly
259:
The mercery trade in the 12th century was synonymous with the overseas trade of silk, linen, and fustian. In the first half of the twelfth century, most of the mercery textiles was brought over by foreigners. While silk cloth was only valuable to the nobility and the church, a wider variety of small
241:
Fustian reached London through the same trade routes, which were dominated by Italy in the 12th century. Originally an ancient cloth from the Middle East made from flax and cotton, it was replicated in Italy and became increasingly popular and a staple product for mercers to profit from. In addition
229:
The origins of the mercery trade's further development from just an import market in
England are tied into the history of trading, manufacturing, and distribution standards in the Middle Ages. The establishment of recognised trade routes over time, and new financial systems such as credits for trade
109:
A typical mercery business was family-run, consisting of a mercer, wife, their family, servants, and apprentices. The husband would be tasked with the marketing and sale of the business' wares to the public in places such as a small storefront, at markets, and at public fairs. The wife would operate
336:
During this period more mercers ascended from mere 'merchants' to aristocracy as they ascended their class as their fortune grew—into influential positions such as aldermen and mayors, wherein municipalities had significant power in the Middle Ages. Although the livery company for mercers still had
271:
in the ranks of the company; over a third of its members died and the situation was bleak. However, the merchants' guild managed to not only survive the plague, but thrive in the oncoming economic revival that followed the Black Death only fifty years later. The groundwork for the mercers to thrive
110:
mainly in the workshop, using her skills to buy the business' stock and make various silk cloths and piece goods; she would also be in charge of the workshop alongside her husband, and would often be expected to train the apprentices and the family's children to contribute to the household income.
237:
to make into piece goods such as laces or braids and for embroidery. This mercery market continued all throughout the Middle Ages, during which
Londoners who used silk relied heavily on Italians to bring silk into London. From the 12th century on, there was an avenue wherein they could establish
332:
The prosperity for a merchant during this period was high. Their overseas trade was expanding, and they controlled the distribution of their goods to
England's provinces. A greater merchant could seek to break himself from the ranks of artisans and shopkeepers to serve to an exclusive class of
319:
and gave a plead of fealty to the
Protestant cause of the head of the Church being led by the king. Before power held by the clergy was transferred over to the aristocratic class of society, wherein powerful mercers had bureaucratic power to ensure a monopoly on the trade of silk—effectively
344:. The percentage of cloth exports of London mercers during that time was no less than 30%, and more importantly the company controlled the competition tightly—other merchants who attempted to sell materials such as silk, linen, fustian, wool and other piece goods independently.
242:
to the increased cultivation of flax in Europe, linen became a symbol of wealth of the burgeoning middle class, among whom 11th-century innovations such as the treadle loom increased the supply of materials such as linen and flax and made them more popular than ever in London.
131:
Mercers were merchants or traders who dealt in cloth, typically fine cloth that was not produced locally. Inventories of mercers in small towns, however, suggest that many were shopkeepers who dealt in various dry commodities other than cloth. Related occupations include
323:
These changes in religion were quickly adapted to by the mass of mercers, due to their nature of their trade—these young men would travel abroad to markets overseas and become more receptive to change and as a result easily influenced and accepting of new ideas.
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in the 15th century created great social and economic upheaval for the
Worshipful Company of Mercers. The mercers sought to benefit from the turmoil of the period and acquired one of many religious buildings dissolved by
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The mercery trade began to lose its esteemed status in its retail, due to a failure to control its market. Independent retailers who were not part of the mercery found success in undercutting the
79:
in the 12th century. Eventually, the term evolved to refer to a merchant or trader of textile goods, especially imported textile goods, particularly in
England. A merchant would be known as a
418:
Headwear such as kerchief and wimples worn by women and the coif worn by both genders was also popular employment for a mercer's services; silk and linen were primarily used for headwear.
583:
Europe's Rich Fabric: The
Consumption, Commercialisation, and Production of Luxury Textiles in Italy, the Low Countries and Neighbouring Territories (Fourteenth-Sixteenth Centuries.)
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337:
discriminatory policies that benefitted those more senior, prosperity was within reach for all ranks to strive towards now more so ever than any other period of the company.
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Whilst London is closely intertwined as the prominent hub of the mercery trade in
England throughout the Middle Ages, before the 12th century goods such as silk, linen and
340:
This success for the common mercer can be attributed to the flourishing overseas trade that the Worshipful Company of Mercers engaged in, particularly in regions such as
1810:
183:
was amorphous in nature, and described the sale of a wide range of goods, from small items like needles and thread, to expensive materials such as silk or
364:(or "the Mercery Company"), compounded with the fact that recruitment had fallen due to fewer and fewer men partaking in the wealth held by the company.
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piece goods made from silk and linen had a much wider and more valuable market for mercers—silk was used en masse for dress accessories and alike.
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Only in the 12th century did the term mercery as an occupation become distinctly separate from the general merchant, who might only deal with
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187:. The term can be dated to the early 11th century. The first reference to mercery was in use for foreign merchants from modern-day
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being available in the main cities for merchant and bankers alike, helped the expansion of the domestic mercer trade in London.
1314:
396:. Dress embellishments could range from simple designs on the edge of sleeves to more extravagant designs made on bands called
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The merchant trade guild would form into a livery company, which comprises London's most ancient and trade associations. The
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The majority of piecegoods sold by mercers used silk as the basis to make a wide variety of dress accessories such as
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was formed by men and women of the same trade and functioned in a social and religious manner to benefit its members.
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direct contact with Italian and other foreign suppliers at major trade fairs in places such as northern France.
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128:, originally referring to a person importing fabric goods from the Eastern world) is now largely obsolete.
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677:"Guilds, Patents, and the Circulation of Technical Knowledge: Northern Italy during the Early Modern Age"
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The occupation of mercery has a rich and complex history dating back over 1,000 years in what is now the
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Linen was used for shirts and underwear; silk and linen were made into headwear, from the ubiquitous
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in England primarily implied overseas trade; of these, only linen was produced and sold in England.
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popular between the 11th and 13th centuries as mercers rich or poor could afford to produce them.
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Streetscape in Canterbury, where mercers used to produce and sell wares in the Middle Ages
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displacing merchants who sought to sell their wares independently from the company.
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in 1394 was soon supplanted by the economic and societal devastation of the
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historically referred to someone who manufactured cloth, often under the
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Example of an orphrey a mercer may have produced and sold to the wealthy
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Religious and social change: The livery company for general merchants
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13-14th century: development of the mercery trade and The Black Death
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777:"Profit and Piety: Thomas More, John Colet, and the London Mercery"
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Stained glass which shows the Worshipful Company of Mercers' arms
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The Mercery of London : Trade, Goods and People, 1130-1578
16:
Largely obsolete term for a merchant or trader of textile goods
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Bundles of raw silk were brought from Italy into London for
732:
Wagner, Esther-Miriam; Beinhoff, Bettina (8 January 2017),
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Fall of the medieval mercery trade in the late 16th century
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was the major trade centre in England for silk during the
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638:
The mercery of London: trade, goods and people, 1130-1578
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An accessory that was ubiquitous for all classes was the
734:"1. Merchants of Innovation: the languages of traders"
564:
Centre National de Ressources Textuelles et Lexicales
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122:in reference to a cloth merchant (from the French
425:, which mercers sold in many different designs.
400:—commonly used by the aristocracy and church.
163:, the first in precedence of the twelve Great
964:
855:, Yale University Press, pp. 1–5, 1995,
8:
892:"Players, Livery Companies, and Apprentices"
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44:
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957:
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328:Prosperity of the mercery in 15th century
159:is primarily used in connection with the
824:"A Family of Mercers in Medieval London"
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213:
31:
904:10.1093/oxfordhb/9780199697861.013.0025
507:
538:. London: Taylor & Francis Group.
1811:Retailers by type of merchandise sold
36:A mercery (mercer's shop) in Brussels
7:
822:Medievalists.net (22 January 2017).
781:Reformation & Renaissance Review
775:Arnold, Jonathan (20 October 2010).
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265:Livery company for general merchants
890:Kathman, David (13 October 2011).
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250:History of the mercery in London
740:, Berlin, Boston: De Gruyter,
407:worn by both sexes to women's
372:Examples of mercery piecegoods
155:In the 21st century, the word
1:
939:The dictionary definition of
925:The dictionary definition of
853:Medieval Mercantile Community
560:"Etymologie du mot "mercier""
459:, 14th-century English mercer
453:, 15th-century English mercer
441:, 19th-century British mercer
362:Worshipful Company of Mercers
296:Worshipful Company of Mercers
282:Worshipful Company of Mercers
161:Worshipful Company of Mercers
71:textiles among various other
1801:Economy of medieval England
294:, repeatedly master of the
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179:In earliest use, the term
18:
1731:
746:10.1515/9781501503542-001
675:Belfanti, Carlo (2004).
534:Sutton, Anne F. (2005).
85:, and the profession as
59:) initially referred to
19:Not to be confused with
896:Oxford Handbooks Online
793:10.1558/rrr.v12i2-3.127
738:Merchants of Innovation
514:The Mercery of London,
411:, and every variety of
1664:Frister & Rossmann
1356:Hook-and-loop fastener
861:10.2307/j.ctt22726qx.6
693:10.1353/tech.2004.0111
681:Technology and Culture
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263:The creation of the
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483:Textile arts portal
342:Northwestern Europe
312:English Reformation
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246:fustian and hemp.
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1791:Clothing industry
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1760:Glossary of terms
1740:Media related to
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1709:Tape edge machine
1128:Embroidery stitch
870:978-0-300-24222-5
755:978-1-5015-0354-2
648:978-1-315-23832-6
598:www.mercers.co.uk
496:Mercerised cotton
463:Charles Woodmason
433:Prominent mercers
210:Mercery in London
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43:(from French
42:
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1493:Tape measure
1488:Tailor's ham
1473:Sewing gauge
1351:Hook-and-eye
1123:Cross-stitch
1113:Chain stitch
1108:Catch stitch
1098:Blind stitch
941:
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874:, retrieved
852:
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75:imported to
40:
39:
29:
1550:Haberdasher
1468:Seam ripper
1300:Self-fabric
1275:Interfacing
1255:Collar stay
1211:Felled seam
1153:Pick stitch
1118:Coverstitch
876:15 November
833:15 November
761:15 November
702:11379/24823
491:Haberdasher
447:, died 1441
439:Wynne Ellis
333:customers.
269:Black Death
197:Netherlands
134:haberdasher
114:Terminology
104:Middle Ages
73:piece goods
1775:Categories
1649:Elias Howe
1610:Simplicity
1545:Dressmaker
1453:Pincushion
1433:Needlecase
1428:Dress form
1387:Grain/bias
1341:Buttonhole
1310:Twill tape
1221:Style line
1148:Pad stitch
1138:Lockstitch
1103:Buttonhole
1083:Backstitch
987:Techniques
657:1127323158
502:References
317:Henry VIII
1600:Clothkits
1590:Butterick
1560:Silkwoman
1525:Suppliers
1380:Materials
1250:Bias tape
1183:Topstitch
1158:Rantering
1133:Hemstitch
809:144451072
801:1462-2459
719:144656024
711:1097-3729
235:silkwomen
175:Etymology
118:The term
25:Mercenary
1781:Textiles
1689:New Home
1620:Machines
1605:McCall's
1582:Patterns
1463:Scissors
1324:Closures
1305:Soutache
1295:Rickrack
1206:Neckline
1173:Stoating
1143:Overlock
1088:Bar tack
1069:Stitches
1059:Shirring
569:22 March
469:See also
413:kerchief
195:and the
146:clothier
144:, while
53:textiles
47:mercerie
1806:Mercers
1644:Brother
1639:Bernina
1498:Thimble
1392:Selvage
1315:Wrights
1265:Galloon
1260:Elastic
1234:Notions
1168:Sashiko
1163:Running
1093:Blanket
1004:Darning
994:Basting
928:mercery
603:23 July
409:wimples
398:orphrey
394:tassels
224:fustian
189:Germany
185:brocade
181:mercery
167:of the
125:mercier
88:mercery
77:England
69:fustian
57:notions
41:Mercery
21:Mercury
1742:Sewing
1704:Singer
1699:Sewmor
1684:Merrow
1669:Janome
1659:Feiyue
1565:Tailor
1555:Mercer
1540:Draper
1521:Trades
1423:Bobbin
1402:Thread
1371:Zipper
1336:Button
1331:Buckle
1290:Ruffle
1285:Piping
1188:Zigzag
1044:Gusset
1029:Gather
980:Sewing
942:mercer
867:
807:
799:
752:
717:
709:
655:
645:
542:
193:France
157:mercer
138:draper
120:mercer
100:London
82:mercer
1719:White
1694:Pfaff
1674:Jones
1595:Burda
1416:Tools
1361:Shank
1198:Seams
1054:Pleat
1034:Godet
805:S2CID
715:S2CID
423:pouch
390:loops
386:laces
204:linen
65:linen
1679:Juki
1654:Elna
1625:list
1407:Yarn
1366:Snap
1346:Frog
1239:Trim
1178:Tack
1074:list
1009:Ease
878:2020
865:ISBN
835:2020
797:ISSN
763:2020
750:ISBN
707:ISSN
653:OCLC
643:ISBN
605:2023
571:2020
540:ISBN
405:coif
392:and
310:The
140:and
67:and
61:silk
55:and
1448:Pin
999:Cut
900:doi
857:doi
789:doi
742:doi
697:hdl
689:doi
23:or
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27:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
