360:- Indian Expedition On 8 June 1988 Abi Gamin was successfully climbed by Govind Joshi, a 17 years old climber. Became the first youngest ever to scale difficult Mt. Abi Gamin who being completely raw in mountaineering field and climbed the peak without using any oxygen aid . This expedition of Ramjas Old Student Adventure Association ( ROSAA ), New Delhi led by C. S. Pandey, went on expedition to Mt. Kamet and Abi Gamin without a trained doctor and tried the bold experiment to eat only vegetarian food throughout the expedition and came back successfully.
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Abi Gamin was surveyed (along with the rest of the group) by
Richard Strachey in 1848; this was the first time that the great heights of these peaks was recognized. In 1855, the Schlagintweit brothers named this range as Western, Central and Eastern Abi Gamin. These correspond to Mukut Parbat, Kamet
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Abi Gamin is the second highest peak in the immediate region, after Kamet. It is also one of the fifteen seven thousand metre peaks of
Uttarakhand, and as such it is a significant peak. However it is not particularly independent, lying as it does close to the higher peak of Kamet, and separated from
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from the
Tibetan side up the NE ridge: they estimated that in August 1855 they reached an altitude of 22,239 or 22,259 ft (6,785 m) on Kamet, though they were in fact attempting to climb Abi Gamin. Their attempt resulted in an at the time widely acknowledged
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Indian expeditions under Nandu Jayal climbed the peak in 1953 and 1955 by the SW ridge from Meade's Col, reached up the East flank of the massif from the Purbi Kamet glacier. Later ascents have been up this route.
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During the 1874-77 survey by the Survey of India under E. C. Ryall, I. S. Pocock set up a plane table at c.22050' on the West flank of Abi Gamin.
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383:(Chamoli)--Markari-Nitti-Sapukaharak-Nand-Kharak-BC-CI-CII-CIII and CIV then summit.
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in 1912 were up the West flank from the
Pachhmi(West) Kamet glacier. These reached
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up the East flank of the massif. The attempts by A.M.Slingsby in 1911 and 1913 and
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Abi Gamin is located in the central
Himalayas and at the culminating point of the
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241:. Its summit is on the border with Tibet and its northern slope is in the
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342:. They approached from the north side through Tibet, reached over the
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The
American alpine Journal, climb & Expeditions 1988, page 225
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Moritz von
Brescius, Friederike Kaiser, Stephanie Kleidt Böhlau,
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Kamet
Conquered: The historic first ascent of a Himalayan giant
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22 August 1950 by R. Dittert, A. Tissieres and G. Chevalley (
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Abi Gamin was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a small
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High Asia: An
Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks
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Purbi Kamet glacier, Meade's col, South face or SW ridge.
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Between 1907 and 1913 a number of expeditions attempting
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reached high altitudes on the flanks of this mountain.
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in 1907 recced the Purbi(East) Kamet approaches, and
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Southwest ridge via Meade's Col (glacier/snow climb)
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372:and Mana. All three peaks are linked by a ridge.
323:and Abi Gamin, but failed to go beyond c.23000'.
276:The first attempt to climb Kamet was launched by
555:Indian mountaineer / spring '90 # 25 , page 220
392:NE Ridge (by Mana pass and Mang Gang glacier).
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307:team followed the same route in 1913 to reach
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568:Across Peaks and Passes in Garhwal Himalaya
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408:List of Himalayan peaks of Uttarakhand
221:mountain peak mostly situated in the
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612:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas
602:Tourist attractions in Uttarakhand
507:, Verlag Köln Weimar, 2015, p. 281
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264:, 7,138 m (23,419 ft).
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260:it by the high saddle known as
455:Himalayan Journal Vol.36, p.72
16:Mountain in Uttarakhand, India
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617:Geography of Chamoli district
435:. Seattle: The Mountaineers.
75:7,355 m (24,131 ft)
516:Alpine Journal Vol. 33, p.72
235:2 km (1.2 mi)
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570:, Indus Publishing, 1999,
525:Himalayan Journal 17, p.80
55:Location in northern India
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607:Mountains of Uttarakhand
85:217 m (712 ft)
536:Himalaja und Karakorum
334:Expedition comprising
113:30.93306°N 79.60250°E
301:Tom George Longstaff
282:Robert Schlagintweit
431:Jill Neate (1989).
319:(c.21000') between
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476:Himalayan handbook
364:Neighbouring peaks
118:30.93306; 79.60250
65:Highest point
398:North West Ridge.
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168:Garhwal Himalayas
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243:Ngari Prefecture
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268:and Abi Gamin.
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254:Zaskar Range
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225:district of
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180:First ascent
162:Parent range
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309:Meade's Col
305:C.F.Meade's
262:Meade's Col
227:Uttarakhand
142:Uttarakhand
116: /
91:Coordinates
596:Categories
413:References
104:79°36′09″E
101:30°55′59″N
81:Prominence
381:Joshimath
344:Mana Pass
313:C.F.Meade
229:state in
219:Himalayan
215:Ibi Gamin
211:Abi Gamin
129:Geography
71:Elevation
49:Abi Gamin
24:Abi Gamin
403:See also
174:Climbing
134:Location
494:, p. 15
223:Chamoli
217:) is a
138:Chamoli
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387:Routes
370:Kamet
332:Swiss
328:Anglo
297:Kamet
278:Adolf
247:Tibet
239:Kamet
231:India
190:Swiss
186:Anglo
154:Tibet
150:Ngari
146:India
572:ISBN
437:ISBN
376:Trek
280:and
348:may
245:of
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Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
