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420:, to reach the Bosses ridge and thence to the summit of Mont Blanc. The route has been described as 'a truly magical expedition of ice and snow aretes at great altitude'. The Durier Hut on the Col de Miage can either be reached directly from the village of Tresse via an increasingly broken slope of scree in its upper reaches, or via a traverse from the Conscrits Hut over the Dômes de Miage.
255:. It descends for approximately 4.5 km, flowing north-westwards before turning north at the foot of the Nid d'Aigle to end some distance above the settlement of Bionnassay, continuing as the Torrent de Bionnassay. This hanging glacier on the north-west face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay provides a route of access for mountaineers with ice-climbing skills.
412:: Crossing the mountain as part of a three-day ascent of Mont Blanc involves climbing up the south ridge of the Aiguille de Bionnassay from the Col de Miage, then descending from the summit down its razor-sharp, icy, and often corniced east (frontier) ridge. From there the route climbs again up the west ridge of the
362:, the route is a steep, glaciated face between 40 and 55 degrees. There are numerous small crevasses in its steep slope providing sufficient resting places to reduce the exposure, but it is a long, demanding route of over 1 km, and can be difficult in times of hard ice. Climbers usually start from the
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between the south eastern side of the
Aiguille de Bionnassay, the Col de Bionnassay and the Calotte des Aiguilles Grises. It descends south-south west for 2.5 km below the Col Infranchissable, then turns south-east to merge with other glaciers, thence continuing as the
236:", and is located on its western side. The mountain's south and east ridges form the frontier between the two countries, and its summit is a knife-edge crest of snow and ice. Reaching it via any route provides a "splendid and serious snow and ice climb".
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Miage on the
Italian side (see above) – forms from snows collecting between the Aiguille de Tricot and the south-western face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay. The glacier descends in a south-westerly direction for approximately 2.5 km.
388:: Described as "a superb snow crest which is often precarious and delicate due to large cornices", the east ridge descends from the summit as an exposed and delicate knife-edge crest to the col de Bionnassay. It is graded
304:. They ascended the north-west face to reach the ridge above the Aiguille de Tricot, from where they continued to the knife-edged summit ridge, arriving in a thunderstorm. A detailed account is given below.
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Ascent of Mont Blanc, showing route from Plan
Glacier to Durier Hut, over Aiguille de Bionnassay, Dome du Gouter, Bosses ridge to Mont Blanc summit. Return route via Le Goûter is shown in blue.
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The north face was first climbed on 30–31 August 1953 by
Bertrand Kempf and Claude Laurendeau. It is ranked as one of the most difficult ice walls in the Alps, and is rarely attempted.
366:. It is regarded as the finest route on the mountain, and one of the best of its class in the Alps. After snow it is avalanche prone; in one such incident in 1968 four climbers died.
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The
Glacier de Bionnassay is the most obvious glacial feature, arising on the north and north-west slopes of the Aiguille de Bionnassay as well as from the western side of the
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Three significant glaciers originate on the slopes of the mountain: The
Glacier de Bionnassay, the Glacier de Bionnassay Italien, and the Glacier de Miage.
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The first winter ascent of the
Aiguille de Bionnassay was made on 20 March 1929 by A. Charlet, F. Frison Roche, H. Hoerlin, E.Schneider and H. Schroeder.
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The mountain's south ridge was first climbed on 13 July 1888 by Kaspar Maurer, Andreas Jaun and the
Austrian diplomat Georg Gruber.
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with rock pitches of II, often iced. A final steep snow ridge leads to the narrow and exposed summit on the French/Italian border.
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The complete north-west face route was finally climbed in 1926 by billionaire businessman and art collector,
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A Traverse of the Dent
Blanche and the First Direct Ascent of the Aiguille de Bionnassay by the North Face
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The long west ridge was first climbed in its entirety from the Col de Tricot in 1911 by
Fraulein
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Video: Traverse of Aiguille de Bionnassay to Mont Blanc with views of the sharp east ridge.
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402:: A long 3.4 km ascent from the Col du Tricot over the Aigulle du Tricot, graded at
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The first ascent of the Aiguille de Bionnassay was undertaken on 28 July 1865 by
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Summit, east ridge and glaciated north-west face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay
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and Freulein H. Wirthl with M. Helff, K.G. von Saar and Richard Weitzenbock.
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The east ridge was first climbed in descent as part of a traverse from the
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The Glacier de Miage – not to be confused with the much larger Glacier
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North side of Aiguille de Bionnassay, seen from the Tête Rousse Hut
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and can be reached from a traverse of the Bionnassay, or from the
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Old moraines at the foot of Glacier du Miage on the Italian side
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Video: Extreme ski-descent of N face of Aiguille de Bionnassay.
216:(elevation 4,052 metres (13,294 ft)) is a mountain in the
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and Reginald S. McDonald, with guides Jean Pierre Cachat and
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Cornice on the E ridge of the Aiguille de Bionnassay
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675:. Spottiswoode, Ballantyne & Company, Limited.
258:The Glacier de Bionnassay Italien arises from a
715:Aiguille de Bionnassay on French IGN map portal
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340:, with his guides Adolf and Josep Pollinger.
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688:The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes
474:Glacier on NW face of Aiguille de Bionnassay
126:Location in France, on the border with Italy
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265:Glacier du Miage (Ghiacciaio del Miage)
690:(1st ed.). London: Diadem Books.
629:Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt,
296:and Reginald S. McDonald, with guides
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735:Entry on Die Viertausender der Alpen
526:List of 4000 metre peaks of the Alps
372:: An ascent from the Col de Miage (
1758:Giardino Botanico Alpino Saussurea
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16:Mountain in the Mont Blanc massif
1788:Saint-Gervais–Vallorcine railway
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631:The High Mountains of the Alps
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1823:Vallée Blanche Aerial Tramway
1061:Grande Pointe des Planereuses
896:Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
669:Lloyd, Robert Wylie (1927).
1753:Chemin de fer du Montenvers
936:Aiguille des Grands Montets
931:Aiguille des Grands Charmoz
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961:Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
596:Mont Blanc Massif Volume 1
1854:Mountains of Haute-Savoie
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686:Goedeke, Richard (1990).
594:Griffin, Lindsay (1990).
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1773:Mont Blanc glacier flood
1374:(first or major ascents)
1081:Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
1011:Le Châtelet (Mont Blanc)
51:164 m (538 ft)
1844:Alpine four-thousanders
986:Aiguille de Tré la Tête
837:Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
730:Entry on UkClimbing.com
725:Entry on CampToCamp.org
720:Entry on SummitPost.org
650:. European Space Agency
598:. London: Alpine Club.
290:Florence Crauford Grove
192:Florence Crauford Grove
1768:Marathon du Mont Blanc
901:Aiguille du Chardonnet
886:Aiguille de Bionnassay
644:"Miage Glacier, Italy"
633:, London: Diadem, 1994
557:www.geoportail.gouv.fr
214:Aiguille de Bionnassay
209:
120:Aiguille de Bionnassay
24:Aiguille de Bionnassay
1849:Mountains of the Alps
1798:Top of the Mont Blanc
976:Aiguille de Rochefort
956:Aiguille de l'A Neuve
921:Aiguille des Glaciers
891:Aiguille de Blaitière
881:Aiguille d'Argentière
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1051:Grand Pilier d'Angle
331:Eleonore Hasenclever
316:Katharine Richardson
198:. (north-west face).
79:45.83583°N 6.81806°E
1793:Skyway Monte Bianco
1086:Mont Blanc du Tacul
991:Aiguille de Triolet
966:Aiguille du Pissoir
906:Aiguilles du Diable
326:on 13 August 1888.
75: /
1803:Tour du Mont Blanc
1778:Mont Blanc tramway
1325:Plan de l'Aiguille
1116:Picco Luigi Amedeo
946:Aiguille du Jardin
941:Aiguille du Grépon
926:Aiguille du Goûter
338:Robert Wylie Lloyd
324:Jean-Baptiste Bich
298:Jean Pierre Cachat
253:Aiguille du Goûter
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41:Highest point
1859:Mont Blanc massif
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1783:Mont Blanc Tunnel
1305:Francesco Gonella
1136:Pointe des Plines
1126:Pointe Helbronner
1121:Pointe Allobrogia
1026:Dôme de Rochefort
781:Mont Blanc massif
218:Mont Blanc massif
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170:Mont Blanc massif
84:45.83583; 6.81806
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1071:Grandes Jorasses
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971:Aiguille du Plan
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1472:Cordier (P.)
1467:Cordier (H.)
1370:Mountaineers
1227:Mer de Glace
1141:Pointe Ronde
1046:Grand Darray
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652:. Retrieved
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358:: Graded at
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302:Michel Payot
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196:Michel Payot
182:First ascent
164:Parent range
152:Aosta Valley
140:Haute-Savoie
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1808:Val d'Aosta
1763:Haute Route
1687:de Saussure
1345:Tré la Tête
1335:Tête Rousse
1242:Tête Rousse
1151:Le Portalet
1106:Mont Maudit
1101:Mont Mallet
1096:Mont Dolent
1031:Les Droites
822:Les Houches
789:Settlements
654:10 November
562:22 November
518:Alps portal
416:, past the
394:Gonella Hut
370:South Ridge
144:Rhône-Alpes
82: /
57:Coordinates
1838:Categories
1813:Val Ferret
1712:Vallençant
1627:Middlemore
1522:Ghirardini
1512:Eckenstein
1497:Destivelle
1320:Mont-Blanc
1300:Elisabetta
1275:Argentière
1217:Argentière
1189:Col Ferret
1171:Tour Ronde
1161:Tita Neire
1111:Pic Eccles
1076:Mont Blanc
1056:Grande Lui
1006:Le Catogne
812:Courmayeur
797:Argentière
697:3763410074
605:0900523573
532:References
418:Vallot Hut
400:West Ridge
386:East Ridge
375:Durier Hut
234:Mont Blanc
70:06°49′05″E
67:45°50′09″N
47:Prominence
1602:MacIntyre
1532:Güssfeldt
1492:Desmaison
1427:Bonington
1407:Blanchard
1290:Couvercle
1285:Cosmiques
1166:Tour Noir
1036:Le Génépi
873:Mountains
320:Emile Rey
95:Geography
1818:Val Veny
1722:Whillans
1662:Rébuffat
1592:Lafaille
1587:Lachenal
1577:Kukuczka
1542:Heckmair
1517:Gabarrou
1447:Burgener
1315:Leschaux
1280:Charpoua
1209:Glaciers
1001:La Breya
832:Les Praz
817:La Fouly
802:Chamonix
504:See also
410:Traverse
279:Alpinism
251:and the
240:Glaciers
176:Climbing
136:Location
1727:Whymper
1697:Stephen
1672:Robbins
1647:Paradis
1642:Paccard
1637:Mummery
1622:Messner
1617:Mazeaud
1607:Mallory
1597:Lambert
1582:Kurtyka
1572:Kuffner
1567:Klucker
1557:Kennedy
1547:Hemming
1502:Długosz
1457:Charlet
1437:Bristow
1422:Bonatti
1355:Saleina
1270:A Neuve
1257:Refuges
1237:Saleina
1222:Bossons
827:Montroc
807:Champex
284:History
220:of the
1717:Walker
1707:Twight
1702:Terray
1692:Smythe
1552:Hudson
1537:Harlin
1507:Eccles
1462:Clough
1452:Cassin
1432:Boulaz
1417:Boivin
1412:Blodig
1402:Balmat
1382:Allain
1360:Vallot
1350:Trient
1340:Torino
1295:Durier
1247:Trient
842:Trient
694:
602:
350:Routes
260:cirque
226:France
148:France
1741:Other
1682:Rouse
1657:Ratti
1652:Patey
1632:Moore
1612:Maund
1477:Couzy
1442:Brown
1387:Almer
1232:Miage
230:Italy
156:Italy
1677:Roch
1562:King
1487:Dent
1482:Croz
1181:Cols
692:ISBN
656:2015
600:ISBN
564:2015
322:and
300:and
228:and
222:Alps
212:The
1667:Rey
380:PD+
314:by
224:in
1840::
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614:^
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540:^
404:PD
390:AD
360:AD
318:,
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272:du
190:,
154:,
146:,
142:,
773:e
766:t
759:v
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396:.
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