Knowledge (XXG)

Artur Hajzer

Source đź“ť

312: 994: 988: 232:'s South Face three times, reaching 8200 m in 1985, 8300 m in 1987 and 7200 m (alpine style) in 1989. In October 1989, Hajzer's partner Jerzy Kukczka died in an accident on Lhotse. It was the second time he had lost a climbing partner to that mountain, and left a considerable impact, saying later it took "15 years" for him to get over the death, and gave up climbing. Alongside 1001: 291:. The summit was successful, but came at a cost, with the loss of two climbers. While Hajzer was not the expedition leader of the attempt, as the organizer and architect of the winter mountaineering program, Hajzer received intense criticism for the program after the deaths, and took full responsibility for them. 259:
After meeting with younger climbers, Hajzer developed a proposal to the Polish Alpine Association and the Polish Ministry of Sports: the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project. The project aimed to support the next generation of Polish climbers to make the first winter ascents on the
31: 264:
unclimbed in the winter season. Hajzer became the expedition lead for the project, and in May 2010, the first expedition to Nanga Parbat was a success, with summits by Hajzer, Robert Szymczak and Marcin Kaczan. On September 30, 2011, he summited Makalu with
195:, who would have a considerable impact on Hajzer. Kukuczka and Hajzer would climb together through the rest of the 1980s, making a number of pivotal climbs together, including Manaslu, Shishapangma and the first ascent of Annapurna in winter in 1987. 972: 632:. Translated by Skirecki, Tomasz. Assistant Editors: Anna Dąbrowska, Katarzyna Deberny, Magdalena Garlej, Marzenna Koszewska, Iwona Marcinkiewicz, Karolina Szczeblewska. Kraków: Wydawnictwo FALL. 280:, with summits by team members Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb. The success of the expedition earned Hajzer considerable esteem, as well as the patronage of Poland's President, 303:. The events of the accident where Hajzer lost his life are unclear, with suggestions from a technical accident, fatigue-related hallucinations, to suicide being theorized. 311: 653: 1038: 447: 287:
The next year, as part of the 2010–2015 Polish Winter Mountaineering Program, the Polish Mountaineering Association led the first successful winter ascent of
973:
Ice Warriors not give up - HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak - 2008/09. /Version english and polish/
841: 867: 637: 399: 1077: 1031: 411: 1092: 628:
Fair Play Club, Polish Olympic Committee (2016). Hądzelek, Magdalena Rejf, Halina Zdebska-Biziewska, Ryszard Żukowski, Kajetan (ed.).
463: 1087: 1072: 1082: 889: 315:
Memorial of Polish Himalayan Mountaineers, Namche Bazaar, Nepal. Artur's name and date of death is inscribed on the memorial.
1067: 1024: 385: 967: 248:, where he broke his leg. After a successful rescue at almost 8,000m, he went on to recover and post successful summits of 718: 153:
Hajzer began climbing at age 14 with the Tatra Scout club. At 16, he completed the COS Betlejemka climbing course in the
214: 191:, he lost his current climbing partner, Rafał Chołda in an accident, and where he met his future climbing partner, 529: 795: 281: 419:, climber who was supported by the 2010–2015 Polish Winter Mountaineering Program on several of his ascents 198:
He also summited Annapurna East (8010m) via a new route up the SE face in 1988. All these climbs were done
276:
In 2012, as part of the Winter Mountaineering Project, he organized the first winter ascent attempt on
993: 1062: 1057: 940: 915: 817: 771: 743: 693: 668: 604: 579: 554: 270: 647: 633: 469: 459: 395: 381: 1008: 261: 130: 199: 500: 51: 30: 422: 192: 126: 1051: 416: 328: 266: 210: 358: 342: 300: 277: 233: 138: 70: 225:. The rescue earned him a "Fair Play" award from the Polish Olympic committee. 154: 90: 352: 288: 249: 245: 181: 162: 473: 987: 335: 222: 166: 142: 941:"AAC Publications - Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma and Kukuczka's 14th 8000er" 580:"AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Annapurna South Face Ascents and Tragedy" 818:"AAC Publications - Broad Peak (8,047m), first winter ascent and tragedy" 240:
Return to climbing and the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project
218: 158: 744:"AAC Publications - Roar of the Wind, The First Winter Ascent of Makalu" 321: 244:
In 2005, he returned to climbing, heading first to a summit attempt at
134: 868:"Polish climber dies trying to scale Gasherbrum peak in the Himalayas" 284:, for the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010 – 2015 project. 180:
At age 20 he began climbing in the Himalayas. At age 21, he summitted
364: 253: 229: 203: 188: 605:"AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Everest, Polish Ascent and Tragedy" 448:"Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Winter Ascent: Kukuczka's 13th 8000er, 1987" 116:
Gentleman of Sport; Fair Play Award (1989), Polish Olympic Committee
299:
In July 2013, Hajzer died after falling in the Japanese Couloir on
252:
in 2006, Dhaulagiri in 2008, and winter attempts on Broad Peak and
217:
in 1989, supported by Sherpas Zangbu and Shiwa and New Zealanders
169:
in 1981. As a teenager, he acquired the nickname "the elephant"
842:"Tajemnica tragedii pod Gaszerbrum. Wspomnienie Artura Hajzera" 772:"AAC Publications - Gasherbrum I (8,086m), First Winter Ascent" 100:
Organizer of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project
555:"AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir from the South" 890:"Zagadka śmierci Artura Hajzera. Mija osiem lat od tragedii" 669:"AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Attempt and Tragedy" 209:
In 1989, Hajzer organized a successful rescue operation on
141:’s east ridge in 1987) and made the first winter climb of 796:"Winter ascent on Broad Peak by Polish expedition - UIAA" 1007:
This biographical article relating to Polish sport is a
916:"AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Northeast Face" 1012: 694:"AAC Publications - Potomac Appalachian Trail Club" 530:"Legendary Polish mountaineer dies on Gasherbrum I" 112: 104: 96: 86: 78: 59: 37: 21: 236:, Hajzer started an outdoor equipment business. 968:MountEverest.net Polish mountaineering timeline 692:J. Cheney, Michael; Hawley, Elizabeth (1988). 1032: 8: 719:"AAC Publications - Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013" 652:: CS1 maint: multiple names: editors list ( 1039: 1025: 125:(28 June 1962 – 7 July 2013) was a Polish 29: 18: 310: 177:for his climbing ability and endurance. 82:University of Katowice, cultural studies 435: 645: 765: 763: 7: 983: 981: 523: 521: 494: 492: 490: 441: 439: 425:, Hajzer's longtime climbing partner 187:In 1985 during a club expedition to 945:publications.americanalpineclub.org 920:publications.americanalpineclub.org 822:publications.americanalpineclub.org 776:publications.americanalpineclub.org 748:publications.americanalpineclub.org 723:publications.americanalpineclub.org 698:publications.americanalpineclub.org 673:publications.americanalpineclub.org 609:publications.americanalpineclub.org 584:publications.americanalpineclub.org 559:publications.americanalpineclub.org 412:List of deaths on eight-thousanders 157:, then going on to climb routes in 16:Polish mountain climber (1962–2013) 1011:. You can help Knowledge (XXG) by 528:Griffin, Lindsay (July 11, 2013). 390:The Crown of the Earth (in Polish 14: 348:1988 - Annapurna East (new route) 999: 992: 986: 307:Ascents on the eight-thousanders 108:First winter ascent of Annapurna 888:Dobroch, Bartek (2021-07-07). 371:Climbing Books by Artur Hajzer 1: 717:McDonald, Bernadette (2014). 376:Attack of Despair (in Polish 324:(new route, North East Face) 667:J. Cheney, Michael (1986). 501:"Artur Hajzer – Ice Leader" 228:Hajzer returned to attempt 1109: 980: 446:Hawley, Elizabeth (1987). 133:, several via new routes ( 123:Artur Henryk "SĹ‚on” Hajzer 1093:Polish sportspeople stubs 816:Griffin, Lindsay (2013). 129:. Hajzer summitted seven 28: 1088:Sport deaths in Pakistan 1078:People from Zielona GĂłra 1073:Polish mountain climbers 553:Warecki, Rysard (1984). 331:(did not attempt summit) 848:(in Polish). 2021-07-07 499:Mytych, Jagoda (2013). 452:American Alpine Journal 1083:Deaths on Gasherbrum I 770:Hajzer, Artur (2012). 578:Majer, Janusz (1989). 316: 145:on February 3, 1987. 1068:Mountaineering deaths 742:Moro, Simone (2009). 338:(first winter ascent) 314: 939:Nyka, JĂłzef (1988). 914:Nyka, JĂłsef (1987). 603:Nyka, JĂłzef (1990). 282:Bronislaw Komorowski 206:or Sherpa support. 137:’s NE face in 1986, 204:supplemental oxygen 846:Historia Do Rzeczy 317: 213:’s West Ridge for 1020: 1019: 870:. Theprovince.com 866:Associated, The. 639:978-83-65110-55-8 400:978-83-7967-015-4 262:eight-thousanders 215:Andrzej Marciniak 131:eight-thousanders 120: 119: 1100: 1041: 1034: 1027: 1003: 1002: 998: 997: 996: 990: 982: 955: 954: 952: 951: 936: 930: 929: 927: 926: 911: 905: 904: 902: 901: 885: 879: 878: 876: 875: 863: 857: 856: 854: 853: 838: 832: 831: 829: 828: 813: 807: 806: 804: 803: 792: 786: 785: 783: 782: 767: 758: 757: 755: 754: 739: 733: 732: 730: 729: 714: 708: 707: 705: 704: 689: 683: 682: 680: 679: 664: 658: 657: 651: 643: 625: 619: 618: 616: 615: 600: 594: 593: 591: 590: 575: 569: 568: 566: 565: 550: 544: 543: 541: 540: 534:www.thebmc.co.uk 525: 516: 515: 513: 512: 496: 485: 484: 482: 480: 443: 66: 47: 45: 33: 19: 1108: 1107: 1103: 1102: 1101: 1099: 1098: 1097: 1048: 1047: 1046: 1045: 1000: 991: 985: 978: 964: 959: 958: 949: 947: 938: 937: 933: 924: 922: 913: 912: 908: 899: 897: 887: 886: 882: 873: 871: 865: 864: 860: 851: 849: 840: 839: 835: 826: 824: 815: 814: 810: 801: 799: 794: 793: 789: 780: 778: 769: 768: 761: 752: 750: 741: 740: 736: 727: 725: 716: 715: 711: 702: 700: 691: 690: 686: 677: 675: 666: 665: 661: 644: 640: 627: 626: 622: 613: 611: 602: 601: 597: 588: 586: 577: 576: 572: 563: 561: 552: 551: 547: 538: 536: 527: 526: 519: 510: 508: 498: 497: 488: 478: 476: 466: 445: 444: 437: 432: 408: 373: 309: 297: 242: 151: 79:Alma mater 74: 68: 64: 55: 49: 43: 41: 24: 17: 12: 11: 5: 1106: 1104: 1096: 1095: 1090: 1085: 1080: 1075: 1070: 1065: 1060: 1050: 1049: 1044: 1043: 1036: 1029: 1021: 1018: 1017: 1004: 976: 975: 970: 963: 962:External links 960: 957: 956: 931: 906: 880: 858: 833: 808: 787: 759: 734: 709: 684: 659: 638: 620: 595: 570: 545: 517: 486: 465:978-0930410292 464: 434: 433: 431: 428: 427: 426: 423:Jerzy Kukuczka 420: 414: 407: 404: 403: 402: 388: 372: 369: 368: 367: 361: 355: 349: 346: 339: 332: 325: 308: 305: 296: 293: 271:Tomasz Wolfart 241: 238: 193:Jerzy Kukuczka 150: 147: 118: 117: 114: 110: 109: 106: 105:Known for 102: 101: 98: 94: 93: 88: 84: 83: 80: 76: 75: 69: 67:(aged 51) 61: 57: 56: 50: 39: 35: 34: 26: 25: 22: 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1105: 1094: 1091: 1089: 1086: 1084: 1081: 1079: 1076: 1074: 1071: 1069: 1066: 1064: 1061: 1059: 1056: 1055: 1053: 1042: 1037: 1035: 1030: 1028: 1023: 1022: 1016: 1014: 1010: 1005: 995: 989: 984: 979: 974: 971: 969: 966: 965: 961: 946: 942: 935: 932: 921: 917: 910: 907: 895: 891: 884: 881: 869: 862: 859: 847: 843: 837: 834: 823: 819: 812: 809: 797: 791: 788: 777: 773: 766: 764: 760: 749: 745: 738: 735: 724: 720: 713: 710: 699: 695: 688: 685: 674: 670: 663: 660: 655: 649: 641: 635: 631: 624: 621: 610: 606: 599: 596: 585: 581: 574: 571: 560: 556: 549: 546: 535: 531: 524: 522: 518: 506: 502: 495: 493: 491: 487: 475: 471: 467: 461: 457: 453: 449: 442: 440: 436: 429: 424: 421: 418: 417:Adam Bielecki 415: 413: 410: 409: 405: 401: 397: 393: 389: 387: 383: 379: 378:Atak Rozpaczy 375: 374: 370: 366: 362: 360: 356: 354: 350: 347: 344: 340: 337: 333: 330: 329:Kangchenjunga 326: 323: 319: 318: 313: 306: 304: 302: 294: 292: 290: 285: 283: 279: 274: 272: 268: 267:Adam Bielecki 263: 257: 255: 251: 247: 239: 237: 235: 231: 226: 224: 220: 216: 212: 211:Mount Everest 207: 205: 201: 196: 194: 190: 185: 183: 178: 176: 172: 168: 164: 160: 156: 148: 146: 144: 140: 136: 132: 128: 124: 115: 111: 107: 103: 99: 95: 92: 89: 85: 81: 77: 72: 62: 58: 53: 40: 36: 32: 27: 20: 1013:expanding it 1006: 977: 948:. Retrieved 944: 934: 923:. Retrieved 919: 909: 898:. Retrieved 894:Onet Podróże 893: 883: 872:. Retrieved 861: 850:. Retrieved 845: 836: 825:. Retrieved 821: 811: 800:. Retrieved 798:. 2013-01-28 790: 779:. Retrieved 775: 751:. Retrieved 747: 737: 726:. Retrieved 722: 712: 701:. Retrieved 697: 687: 676:. Retrieved 672: 662: 629: 623: 612:. Retrieved 608: 598: 587:. Retrieved 583: 573: 562:. Retrieved 558: 548: 537:. Retrieved 533: 509:. Retrieved 505:GĂłry ksiÄ…ĹĽek 504: 477:. Retrieved 455: 451: 392:Korona Ziemi 391: 377: 359:Nanga Parbat 343:Shishapangma 301:Gasherbrum I 298: 286: 278:Gasherbrum I 275: 258: 243: 234:Janusz Majer 227: 208: 200:alpine-style 197: 186: 179: 174: 170: 165:, including 152: 139:Shishapangma 122: 121: 97:Organization 71:Gasherbrum I 65:(2013-07-07) 52:Zielona GĂłra 48:28 June 1962 23:Artur Hajzer 1063:2013 deaths 1058:1962 births 896:(in Polish) 507:(in Polish) 458:(61): 251. 345:(new route) 295:Final climb 155:High Tatras 127:mountaineer 91:Mountaineer 63:7 July 2013 1052:Categories 950:2024-06-23 925:2024-06-23 900:2024-06-23 874:2013-07-11 852:2024-06-23 827:2024-06-23 802:2024-06-23 781:2024-06-23 753:2024-06-23 728:2024-06-23 703:2024-06-23 678:2024-06-23 614:2024-06-23 589:2024-06-23 564:2024-06-23 539:2024-06-23 511:2024-06-23 430:References 386:8361968113 353:Dhaulagiri 289:Broad Peak 260:remaining 250:Ama Dablam 246:Broad Peak 202:, without 184:(7,708m). 182:Tirich Mir 175:in Polish) 163:Mont Blanc 87:Occupation 73:, Pakistan 44:1962-06-28 648:cite book 630:Fair Play 474:0065-6925 336:Annapurna 223:Gary Ball 167:Petit Dru 143:Annapurna 406:See also 219:Rob Hall 159:the Alps 54:, Poland 363:2011 - 357:2010 - 351:2008 - 341:1987 - 334:1987 - 327:1986 - 322:Manaslu 320:1986 - 135:Manaslu 636:  479:25 May 472:  462:  398:  384:  365:Makalu 254:Makalu 230:Lhotse 189:Lhotse 113:Awards 173:SĹ‚on 1009:stub 654:link 634:ISBN 481:2024 470:ISSN 460:ISBN 396:ISBN 382:ISBN 269:and 221:and 149:Life 60:Died 38:Born 456:#29 256:. 161:on 1054:: 943:. 918:. 892:. 844:. 820:. 774:. 762:^ 746:. 721:. 696:. 671:. 650:}} 646:{{ 607:. 582:. 557:. 532:. 520:^ 503:. 489:^ 468:. 454:. 450:. 438:^ 394:) 380:) 273:. 1040:e 1033:t 1026:v 1015:. 953:. 928:. 903:. 877:. 855:. 830:. 805:. 784:. 756:. 731:. 706:. 681:. 656:) 642:. 617:. 592:. 567:. 542:. 514:. 483:. 171:( 46:) 42:(

Index


Zielona GĂłra
Gasherbrum I
Mountaineer
mountaineer
eight-thousanders
Manaslu
Shishapangma
Annapurna
High Tatras
the Alps
Mont Blanc
Petit Dru
Tirich Mir
Lhotse
Jerzy Kukuczka
alpine-style
supplemental oxygen
Mount Everest
Andrzej Marciniak
Rob Hall
Gary Ball
Lhotse
Janusz Majer
Broad Peak
Ama Dablam
Makalu
eight-thousanders
Adam Bielecki
Tomasz Wolfart

Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.

↑