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Blackwork

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Historic blackwork embroidery is rare to find well-preserved, as the iron-based dye used to create the thread's black colour was corrosive, and there are currently no conservation techniques that can stop the decay. Black embroidery silk from outside England, such as Spain, contained less iron in the
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European blackwork embroidery was preceded by Mamluk Egyptian running stitch embroideries and Indian Kasuti. The key difference between these techniques and European blackwork is that they are often more colorful. Kasuti sometimes uses multiple colors in a piece, and Mamluk embroideries typically
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Historically, there were three common styles of blackwork. In the earliest forms of blackwork, counted stitches were worked to make a geometric or small floral pattern. Most modern blackwork is produced in this style, especially commercially produced patterns marketed for embroidery
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Blackwork remains popular as an embroidery technique. Common subjects among hobbyists include chessboards, maps, Tudor houses, roses and cats. Much of the success of a blackwork design using free embroidery depends on how tone values are translated into stitches.
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Later blackwork featured large designs of flowers, fruit, and other patterns connected by curvilinear stems. These were frequently not counted thread work, and were outlined with stem stitch, with the outlined patterns filled in with geometric counted designs.
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brought many blackwork garments with her from Spain, and portraits of the later 15th and early 16th centuries show black embroidery or other trim on Spanish chemises. However, black embroidery was known in England before 1500.
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Blackwork sleeves with large free-stitched flowers filled with geometric patterns, under sheer linen oversleeves, and a counted blackwork forepart under her skirt. Portrait of Mary Cornwallis by
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embroidered with silk and metallic thread, in a mix of counted and free-stitched stitches, including buttonhole, chain, double running, overcast, plaited braid, and square open work stitches.
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describes the clothing of the miller's wife, Alison: "Of white, too, was the dainty smock she wore, embroidered at the collar all about with coal-black silk, alike within and out."
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In the third style of blackwork, the outlined patterns were "shaded" with random stitches called seed stitches. This style of blackwork imitates etchings or woodcuts.
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Blackwork in silk thread on linen was the most common domestic embroidery technique for clothing (shirts, smocks, sleeves,
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Today, the term "blackwork" is used to refer to the technique, rather than the precise colour used in the embroidery.
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of a fabric are counted for the length of each stitch, producing uniform-length stitches and a precise pattern on an
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Elizabeth I wearing free-stitched blackwork sleeves, stomacher, and collar (beneath a sheer linen ruff),
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black dye and so blackwork worked using non-English silk tends to survive in better condition.
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generally worked in black thread, although other colours are also used on occasion, as in
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A.J.B. Wace "debunked" the Spanish origin in the 1930s, but if the black trim on these
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Blackwork embroidery on both an outer and inner collar. Portrait of Simon George by
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Counted stitch blackwork, 1530s (left), and free stitch blackwork, 1590s (right).
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Wace, A.J.B.: "English Embroideries Belonging to Sir John Carew Pole, Bart",
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fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents.
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were monochrome, but done in black, red, blue, green, and yellow.
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wears a chemise embroidered at the neckline and on the sleeves,
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Technique of monochrome embroidery originating in Tudor England
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Blackwork embroidery in Holbein stitch. Detail of portrait of
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Westport Connecticut: Greenwood Publishing Group, 2007; p. 19
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is embroidery, this would support an early Spanish origin.
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Counted-thread geometric patterns in modern blackwork
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English blackwork cushion cover, late 16th century.
1701: 1650: 1544: 1447: 1238: 1177: 1081: 920: 104:The stitches used for counted thread blackwork are 793:New Anchor Book of Blackwork Embroidery Stitches 443:, an Italian form of counted-thread embroidery 1535:Fragments of a Cope with the Seven Sacraments 898: 8: 419:A visual love letter to blackwork embroidery 77:fabric. Blackwork may also take the form of 1475:Great Tapestry of Scotland: People's Panel 905: 891: 883: 800:Blackwork Embroidery: Design and Technique 703:Blackwork and Holbein Embroidery: Book Two 506:Leslie, Catherine Amoroso. "Blackwork" in 1668:Embroidery Software Protection Coalition 831:, 1932–33, Vol. XXI, p. 56, note 2. 613:. Art Institute of Chicago Museum Shop. 611:Textiles in the Art Institute of Chicago 761:, Batsford, 1976; Dover reprint, 1998, 499: 458: 354: 212: 712:, Leeds: W S Maney and Son Ltd, 1988. 705:, Self-Published; Second edition 1981. 222:Geometric scarletwork, Venice, 1520s. 84:Traditionally, blackwork is worked in 1765:History of clothing (Western fashion) 802:, B T Batsford Ltd; 2nd edition 1990. 750:Geddes, Elizabeth and Moyra McNeill. 7: 878:Introduction to Blackwork Embroidery 165:Historically, blackwork was used on 1688:Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum 710:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd 679:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd 773:Blackwork (Essential Stitch Guide) 740:. New York: Thomas Yoseloff, 1964. 733:, Guild of Master Craftsman, 2000. 609:Thurman, Christa C. Mayer (1992). 25: 576:The Volume of the Walpole Society 364:Framed Celtic design in blackwork 1770:Embroidery in the United Kingdom 412: 397: 383: 369: 357: 315: 297: 274: 269:in geometric scarletwork, 1550s. 259: 243: 227: 215: 106:double running or holbein stitch 43:, sometimes historically termed 1572:Juanita Growing Thunder Fogarty 780:Embroidery Ideas from Blackwork 745:The Art of Blackwork Embroidery 1693:Han Sang Soo Embroidery Museum 1663:Embroiderers' Guild of America 1617:Charles Germain de Saint Aubin 843:Traditional Blackwork Samplers 696:Reversible Blackwork: Book One 1: 1673:Needlework Development Scheme 863:A Blackwork Embroidery Primer 836:Beginner's Guide to Blackwork 305: 286: 155: 88:thread on white or off-white 1562:Shahin Ebrahimzadeh-Pezeshki 850:The Art of English blackwork 807:Complete Guide to Needlework 795:, David & Charles, 2005. 782:, Kangaroo Press Ltd., 1999. 659:. Victoria and Albert Museum 637:. Victoria and Albert Museum 1683:Wemyss School of Needlework 1493:Magna Carta (An Embroidery) 1343: 1332: 1323: 754:, Dover Publications, 1976. 1786: 1678:Royal School of Needlework 1529:Scottish Diaspora Tapestry 1470:Great Tapestry of Scotland 508:Encyclopedia of Needlework 1627:Dimitri Vlachos - Castano 1545:Designersand embroiderers 1054: 787:Made in France: Blackwork 747:, Mills & Boon, 1975. 736:Digby, George Wingfield. 731:Blackwork: A New Approach 147:Early Spanish blackwork: 64:counted-thread embroidery 1658:Embroiderers' Guild (UK) 1651:Organizationsand museums 1499:Margaret Layton's jacket 328:Art Institute of Chicago 236:Hans Holbein the Younger 852:, J.D. Zimmerman, 1996. 698:, Self-Published; 1978. 635:"Linen jacket, 1615-20" 570:Wace, A. J. B. (1932). 471:chemises from the 1470s 1582:Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum 1239:Regionaland historical 1114:Couching and laid work 1075: 1068: 1061: 873:Holbein Stitch Diagram 829:Walpole Society Annual 824:Sherwood Studio, 1993. 822:Why call it blackwork? 789:, Murdoch Books, 2010. 738:Elizabethan Embroidery 472: 345: 209:16th-century blackwork 169:, shirts or smocks in 162: 79:free-stitch embroidery 37: 1622:Mary Elizabeth Turner 1074: 1067: 1060: 868:Blackwork for Costume 845:, Search Press, 2004. 838:, Search Press, 2002. 775:, Search Press, 2011. 726:, Search Press, 1999. 470: 343: 146: 35: 1519:Prestonpans Tapestry 752:Blackwork Embroidery 743:Drysdale, Rosemary. 485:1550–1600 in fashion 18:Blackwork Embroidery 1760:Embroidery stitches 1509:Overlord Embroidery 1482:Hastings Embroidery 1178:Tools and materials 848:Zimmerman, Jane D. 330:textile collection. 179:Catherine of Aragon 1504:New World Tapestry 1455:Butler-Bowden Cope 1076: 1069: 1062: 798:Pascoe, Margaret. 473: 436:English embroidery 346: 163: 38: 1742: 1741: 1612:Tetiana Protcheva 1195:Embroidery thread 1124:Embroidery stitch 993:Drawn thread work 948:Broderie anglaise 841:Wilkins, Lesley. 834:Wilkins, Lesley. 820:Scoular, Marion. 722:Barnett, Lesley. 447:Kasuti embroidery 441:Assisi embroidery 254:by Holbein, 1537. 173:from the time of 45:Spanish blackwork 16:(Redirected from 1777: 1577:Constance Howard 1514:Oxburgh Hangings 1348: 1337: 1328: 1205:Perforated paper 963:Clare embroidery 907: 900: 893: 884: 805:Reader's Digest 757:Gostelow, Mary. 682: 677:Arnold, Janet, 675: 669: 668: 666: 664: 653: 647: 646: 644: 642: 631: 625: 624: 606: 600: 599: 567: 561: 560: 558: 556: 542: 536: 535: 533: 531: 517: 511: 504: 487: 481: 475: 463: 416: 401: 387: 373: 361: 336:Modern blackwork 319: 310: 307: 301: 291: 288: 278: 267:Bess of Hardwick 263: 247: 231: 219: 188:Canterbury Tales 184:Geoffrey Chaucer 160: 157: 112:, and sometimes 21: 1785: 1784: 1780: 1779: 1778: 1776: 1775: 1774: 1745: 1744: 1743: 1738: 1697: 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751: 744: 737: 730: 723: 709: 702: 695: 689:Bibliography 678: 673: 661:. Retrieved 651: 639:. Retrieved 629: 610: 604: 579: 575: 565: 553:. Retrieved 549: 540: 528:. Retrieved 524: 515: 507: 502: 479: 461: 351: 347: 283:George Gower 252:Jane Seymour 203: 192: 164: 151: 138: 130: 126: 118: 103: 83: 66:, where the 57:Tudor period 52: 44: 40: 39: 29: 1592:Ann Macbeth 1557:Leon Conrad 1552:Emilie Bach 1334:Kogin-zashi 1169:Tent stitch 1018:Needlepoint 938:Berlin work 681:, pp. 40–41 555:4 September 530:4 September 309: 1590 290: 1580 199:Elizabeth I 159: 1505 114:stem stitch 53:scarletwork 1755:Embroidery 1749:Categories 1729:Needlework 1642:Lily Yeats 1597:May Morris 1439:Vyshyvanka 1434:Vietnamese 1372:Macedonian 1210:Plainweave 1185:Aida cloth 1104:Buttonhole 1089:Backstitch 914:Embroidery 663:26 October 641:26 October 494:References 406:Derbyshire 377:Chessboard 175:Henry VIII 110:backstitch 75:even-weave 49:embroidery 1429:Ukrainian 1281:Cantonese 1256:Brazilian 1200:Evenweave 1048:Whitework 1033:Stumpwork 1023:Quillwork 1003:Hardanger 943:Blackwork 759:Blackwork 724:Blackwork 588:0141-0016 582:: 43–65. 483:See also 161:, Toledo. 149:Borgoña's 122:hobbyists 100:Technique 41:Blackwork 1734:Quilting 1719:Knitting 1709:Appliqué 1318:Jacobean 1139:Parisian 1082:Stitches 1028:Smocking 998:Goldwork 933:Bargello 809:, 1979, 596:41830348 425:See also 167:chemises 1714:Crochet 1702:Related 1419:Rushnyk 1407:Zardozi 1387:Persian 1325:Sashiko 1313:Islamic 1303:English 1286:Sichuan 1276:Chinese 1266:Burmese 1251:Balochi 1220:Sampler 1154:Sashiko 1144:Running 1134:Holbein 1094:Blanket 1038:Surface 1013:Machine 988:Darning 983:Cutwork 404:Map of 391:Sampler 238:, 1535. 186:in the 171:England 135:History 60:England 1402:Sistan 1397:Sermeh 1367:Korean 1362:Kasuti 1357:Kantha 1352:Kaitag 1308:Indian 1291:Suzhou 1271:Chikan 1159:Shisha 1043:Suzani 1008:Hedebo 973:Crewel 928:Assisi 921:Styles 813:  765:  716:  617:  594:  586:  550:Scribd 525:Scribd 94:cotton 1392:Rasht 1296:Xiang 592:JSTOR 453:Notes 324:Linen 195:ruffs 90:linen 71:yarns 1724:Lace 1230:Yarn 1225:Slip 811:ISBN 763:ISBN 714:ISBN 665:2012 643:2012 615:ISBN 584:ISSN 557:2024 532:2024 86:silk 1099:Box 92:or 1751:: 590:. 580:21 578:. 574:. 548:. 523:. 306:c. 287:c. 285:, 156:c. 124:. 108:, 906:e 899:t 892:v 817:. 667:. 645:. 623:. 598:. 559:. 534:. 292:. 20:)

Index

Blackwork Embroidery

embroidery
Tudor period
England
counted-thread embroidery
warp and weft
yarns
even-weave
free-stitch embroidery
silk
linen
cotton
double running or holbein stitch
backstitch
stem stitch
hobbyists

Borgoña's
chemises
England
Henry VIII
Catherine of Aragon
Geoffrey Chaucer
Canterbury Tales
ruffs
Elizabeth I
Geometric scarletwork, Venice, 1520s.
Blackwork embroidery on both an outer and inner collar. Portrait of Simon George by Hans Holbein the Younger, 1535.
Hans Holbein the Younger

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