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on the headwall. After summiting, Kennedy and Kruk removed 125 of the bolt-ladder bolts during their descent. Colin Haley, who watched the ascent from
Norwegos, estimated the climb took them thirteen hours from their bivy on the shoulder to the summit. "The speed with which they navigated virgin ground on the upper headwall is certainly testament to Hayden's great skills on rock", Haley reported. There has been much discussion concerning the removal of bolts from the compressor route by Kennedy and Kruk. However, the consensus amongst the climbing community is that of agreement for removing the bolts and it has embraced their actions as having "restored Cerro Torre's southeast ridge to the realm of genuine adventure".
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the rocky part of the mountain, just below the ice mushroom. Maestri claimed that "the mushroom is not part of the mountain" and did not continue to the summit. The compressor was left, tied to the last bolts, 100 m (330 ft) below the top. Maestri was heavily criticized for the "unfair" methods he used to climb the mountain.
300:
Maestri went back to Cerro Torre in 1970 with Ezio
Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus and Pietro Vidi, trying a new route on the southeast face. With the aid of a gas-powered compressor drill, Maestri equipped 350 metres (1,150 ft) of rock with bolts and got to the end of
375:
as responsible. Many of the bolts were drilled next to cracks, which are usually used by climbers for protection on the route. This has caused a large controversy in certain climbers' circles, as his actions are unethical according to climbing purists. Although Lama was not aware of the sheer number
383:
and
Canadian Jason Kruk made the first "fair-means" (a term used to describe a reasonable use of bolts for safety and aesthetics, "a long-accepted practice in mountain range") ascent of the Southeast Ridge, near the controversial Compressor Route, using only two of Maestri's original belay anchors
291:
claimed in 1959 that he and Toni Egger had reached the summit and that Egger had been swept to his death by an avalanche while they were descending. Maestri declared that Egger had the camera with the pictures of the summit, but this camera was never found. Inconsistencies in
Maestri's account, and
540:
as one of his earlier difficult ascents (1992): "I'd scaled a frightening, mile-high spike of vertical and overhanging granite called Cerro Torre; buffeted by hundred-knot winds, plastered with frangible atmospheric rime, it was once (though no longer) thought to be the world's hardest mountain".
387:
In contrast to David Lama's free ascent (also "fair-means"; January 2012, together with Peter Ortner), Kennedy and Kruk used bolts, although not
Maestri's, during their ascent. Lama estimated the difficulties of his free ascent, which followed a new line circumventing the bolt traverse and in the
370:
was held responsible for around 30 new bolts and hundreds of meters of fixed rope added to the
Compressor Route on the mountain (due to bad weather conditions, much of the gear was left on the mountain and later removed by local climbers). Although the bolts were drilled by Austrian guide Markus
343:
ascent was completed by Dave Carman, John Bragg and Jay Wilson (USA). They took a week to summit Cerro Torre, which had taken the
Italian group two months to summit. In 1980, Bill Denz (New Zealand) attempted the first solo of the Compressor Route. Over a five-month period, he made 13 concerted
296:
and
Alessandro Beltrami, after many attempts by world-class alpinists, put up a confirmed route on the face that Maestri claimed to have climbed. They did not find any evidence of previous climbing on the route described by Maestri and found the route significantly different from Maestri's
388:
upper headwall, as grade X− (hard 8a but mentally highly demanding; e.g., climbing on loose flakes, long runouts). Lama stated that a free repetition of the original
Compressor Route is virtually impossible, in particular as the rock of the last pitches comprise no climbable features.
628:
Desde la cumbre del Monte Fitz Roy la línea descenderá por la divisoria de aguas hasta un punto de coordenadas X=4.541.630 Y=1.424.600.", contained in the international treaty "Acuerdo para precisar el recorrido del límite desde el Monte Fitz Roy hasta el Cerro Daudet de
463:
2006 January 22 – Krzysztof
Belczynski and Marcin Tomaszewski made 2nd or 3rd ascent of "Compressor" route up to the summit in alpine style, 33 hours round trip from Norwegian shelter
477:
2012 January 16 – First 'fair means' ascent of the Southeast Ridge (5.11 A2), without using any of Cesare Maestri's bolts on the Compressor Route, by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
1371:
1107:
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363:, with 2,200 m (7,200 ft) total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.
553:
480:
2012 January 19 – First free ascent of the Southeast Ridge by a new variation, also without using any of Cesare Maestri's bolts on the Compressor Route, by
344:
attempts but was driven back by storms on every occasion. On his last attempt, in November 1980, he got to within 60 metres (200 ft) of the summit.
114:
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883:
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71:
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494:, 22, soloed the 4,000-foot Corkscrew route (5.10d, A1) on Cerro Torre—the hardest route ever soloed on the granite tower—in a single day.
419:
1973 – Keven Carroll (AUS) and Steven McAndrews (USA) West Face 5th ascent. Died on descent from rock fall. Earlier seen on summit ridge.
292:
the lack of bolts, pitons or fixed ropes on the route, have led most mountaineers to doubt Maestri's claim. In 2005, Ermanno Salvaterra,
602:, p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes.
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of bolts that were drilled, he took full responsibility for the actions. In the upcoming years, he publicly regretted what happened.
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AAJ 2004 article "A Mountain Unveiled: A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre's tallest tale" by Rolando Garibotti in pdf format
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Pucher, and not by Lama himself, it was done as part of his trip sponsored by Red Bull, and many climbers regard Lama and
253:
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In March 2014, an adventure documentary was released following the "first ever free ascent" of Cerro Torre, featuring
276:(2,685 m (8,809 ft)), Punta Herron, and Cerro Standhardt. The top of the mountain often has a mushroom of
497:
2020 February 7 – First climb and fly from the summit of Cerro Torre by German alpinist and paraglider Fabian Buhl.
1140:
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396:
380:
327:, and Pino Negri. The controversies regarding Maestri's claims are the focus of the 2014 book on Cerro Torre,
1165:
1082:
1001:
950:
918:
359:, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at
54:
457:
435:
1981 - Tom Proctor and Phil Burke (England). Diedre, East Face to North Face and retreat below cornices.
409:
1959 – Cesare Maestri (Italy) and Toni Egger (Austria) - Unsuccessful attempt of North Face. Egger died.
1218:
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1974 – Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari and Pino Negri (Italy). First undisputed ascent.
324:
218:
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517:
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272:(also known as Cerro Chaltén). The peak is the highest of a four mountain chain: the other peaks are
231:
438:
1985 July 3–8 First winter ascent by Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli and Ermanno Salvaterra (Italy).
312:
and Steve Brewer. Most parties consider the ascent complete only if they summit the often-difficult
1035:
239:
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227:
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713:
280:, formed by the constant strong winds, increasing the difficulty of reaching the actual summit.
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The Guardian (UK) article on Cesare Maestri and the controversy regarding the first ascent
862:
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1002:"Bolts chopped on Cerro Torre :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion Topic - page 6"
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176:
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Salvaterra, Ermanno (March 2005). "Cerro Torre, Five Years to Paradise, New Route".
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2013 February – First free solo of Cerro Torre by Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher.
805:
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223:
977:"Bolts chopped on Cerro Torre :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion Topic"
572:
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1977 – Dave Carman, John Bragg and Jay Wilson (USA). First Alpine-style ascent.
28:
782:
545:
481:
367:
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The first undisputed ascent was made in 1974 by the "Ragni di Lecco" climbers
1058:"Episode 6: Hayden Kennedy: Alpine Taliban or Patagonian Custodian? (Part 1)"
200:
1974 by Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari and Pino Negri (Italy)
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this prominence value appears to be based on a summit elevation of 3,102 m.
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The Tower: a chronicle of climbing and controversy on Cerro Torre
445:- first solo by Marco Pedrini (Swiss). Filmed by Fulvio Mariani:
1293:. New York, NY, USA: Anchor Books / Random House. p. 28.
1108:"Piolets d'Or - Special mention for two climbs on Cerro Torre"
618:(in Spanish). Imprenta del Congreso de la Nación. p. 940
460:, Alessandro Beltrami, and Giacomo Rossetti (all from Italy).
456:(ED:VI 5.10b A2 95 deg, 1000 m) (right center on East Face):
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Garibotti, Rolando (September 2008). "The Torre Traverse".
1241:"Fabian Buhl Climbs Cerro Torre and Paraglides Off Summit"
919:"Dozens of Bolts Added to Compressor Route - Alpinist.com"
1083:"Compressor Chopped - Kennedy Kruk Update - Alpinist.com"
222:
Some peaks of the Cerro Torre Group. 2: Cerro Torre, 3:
907:(25). Jackson, Wyoming, USA: Alpinist Magazine: 52–59.
838:
Wilson, Ken (1972). "Interview with Cesare Maestri".
951:"Nach der Kompressor-Route: David Lama im Interview"
432:
and Steve Brewer complete climb of Compressor Route.
416:(Italy), Compressor route to 60 meters below summit.
1186:(10). Jackson, Wyoming, USA: Alpinist Magazine: 82.
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1029:Kennedy, Hayden; Kruk, Jason (26 January 2012).
878:(1st ed.). Ventura, California: Patagonia.
355:made the first complete traverse of the entire
304:The route Maestri followed is now known as the
16:Mountain in Southern Patagonia in South America
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685:(78). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club:
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1372:Landforms of Santa Cruz Province, Argentina
1315:"Cerro Torre - a snowball's chance in hell"
1024:
1022:
400:Cerro Torre (east face), Torre glacier and
594:, Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press,
506:Cerro Torre was featured in the 1991 film
18:
810:. Seattle, Wash: The Mountaineers Books.
554:San Sebastián International Film Festival
550:Cerro Torre - A Snowball's Chance in Hell
308:and was climbed to the summit in 1979 by
612:Congreso de la nación argentina (1998).
590:From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in
564:
778:CERRO TORRE - EL ARCA DE LOS VIENTOS-1
781:(in Italian). YouTube. Archived from
746:"The Ark of the Winds - Alpinist.com"
7:
1357:Maestri article, National Geographic
1168:1986, pp. 205, and 1987, pp. 103–108
775:Cesare Maestri (25 September 2007).
708:
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361:Grade VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6
121:
14:
1219:"Austrian Free Solos Cerro Torre"
1243:. Rock and Ice. 11 February 2020
1221:. Rock and Ice. 25 February 2013
1141:"Cerro Torre - South east ridge"
1031:"Kennedy Kruk Release Statement"
120:
113:
27:
1114:. 21 March 2013. Archived from
714:"Jim Bridwell's Last Interview"
1387:Mountains of Magallanes Region
134:Location on Southern Patagonia
1:
642:"Torre Egger 2005, Huberbuam"
379:On 16 January 2012, American
254:Southern Patagonian Ice Field
49:3,128 m (10,262 ft)
1198:"BASE Jump From Cerro Torre"
392:Notable ascents and attempts
59:1,227 m (4,026 ft)
1397:Climbing areas of Argentina
807:Mountaineering in Patagonia
671:Garibotti, Rolando (2004).
1418:
1200:. Climbing.com. 2008-03-03
366:In 2010, Austrian climber
1392:Última Esperanza Province
107:
26:
1319:www.CerroTorre-Movie.com
1402:Climbing areas of Chile
1166:American Alpine Journal
679:American Alpine Journal
534:mentions it briefly in
1377:Mountains of Argentina
874:Cordes, Kelly (2014).
804:Kearney, Alan (1993).
454:Five Years to Paradise
405:
242:
861:June 1, 2010, at the
674:"A Mountain Unveiled"
615:Trámite parlamentario
399:
221:
87:49.29278°S 73.09833°W
592:World Mountaineering
518:Vittorio Mezzogiorno
92:-49.29278; -73.09833
1118:on 25 February 2021
855:Apocalyptic warrior
556:in September 2013.
490:2015 February 21 —
466:2008 February 25 –
339:In 1977, the first
331:, by Kelly Cordes.
260:. It is located in
83: /
33:Cerro Torre in 1987
1382:Mountains of Chile
1342:Map of Cerro Torre
1147:. 18 February 2016
502:In popular culture
492:Marc-André Leclerc
484:; Lama and Ortner.
472:wingsuit BASE jump
458:Ermanno Salvaterra
447:Cerro Torre Cumbre
406:
335:Subsequent ascents
243:
39:Highest point
1006:www.SuperTopo.com
981:www.SuperTopo.com
885:978-1-938340-33-8
840:Mountain Magazine
817:978-0-938567-30-1
526:Donald Sutherland
474:from Cerro Torre.
441:1985 November 26
349:Rolando Garibotti
347:In January 2008,
294:Rolando Garibotti
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443:Compressor route
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522:Stefan Glowacz
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1290:Into Thin Air
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646:Huberbuam.de
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532:Jon Krakauer
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402:Laguna Torre
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341:Alpine style
338:
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310:Jim Bridwell
305:
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284:First ascent
245:
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240:Cuatro Dedos
236:Aguja Bífida
228:Punta Herron
196:First ascent
178:Parent range
1122:11 November
1067:11 November
957:(in German)
955:Klettern.de
353:Colin Haley
274:Torre Egger
246:Cerro Torre
224:Torre Egger
128:Cerro Torre
90: /
65:Coordinates
22:Cerro Torre
1366:Categories
1324:16 October
1204:2020-02-26
1092:16 October
1011:16 October
986:16 October
961:16 October
928:16 October
760:16 October
724:2022-03-10
656:16 October
560:References
546:David Lama
482:David Lama
368:David Lama
316:mushroom.
268:, west of
75:49°17′34″S
55:Prominence
1287:(1999) .
823:31 August
622:8 January
329:The Tower
262:Argentina
250:mountains
166:Argentina
152:Argentina
148:Patagonia
103:Geography
78:73°5′54″W
45:Elevation
1247:17 March
1225:17 April
1180:Alpinist
1036:Alpinist
901:Alpinist
859:Archived
718:Climbing
373:Red Bull
314:ice-rime
278:rime ice
270:Fitz Roy
190:Climbing
144:Location
1151:6 April
1042:5 April
789:5 April
687:138–155
428:1979 –
252:of the
162:Country
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524:, and
414:et al.
404:, 2010
357:massif
238:, 11:
452:2004
266:Chile
234:, 7:
230:, 5:
226:, 4:
184:Andes
170:Chile
156:Chile
1326:2017
1295:ISBN
1249:2020
1227:2015
1184:2004
1153:2017
1124:2015
1094:2017
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988:2017
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905:2008
880:ISBN
825:2011
812:ISBN
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629:1998
624:2015
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