426:". In France and Germany it was fitted more or less to the figure; in Italy it was wider and fell down straight in front. Unlike the chimere, it was not associated with any particular rank of clergy and was not universally used by them. As late as the middle of the 18th century, the zimarra was still in common use as an out-of-doors overcoat, but after that it was in Italy associated with certain members of the clergy, senators of the city of Rome (before the unification of Italy) and university professors. At the time of composition of the Encyclopædia Britannica article, the Pope wore a black zimarra lined with white, and sometimes ornamented with a white binding and gold tassels.
385:. Foxe, indeed, mentions that Hooper at his consecration wore a long scarlet "chymere" down to the foot (Acts and Mon., ed. 1563, p. 1051), a source of trouble to himself and of scandal to other extreme reformers; but that this was no more than the full civil dress of a bishop is proved by the fact that Archbishop Parker at his consecration wore surplice and tippet, and only put on the chimere, when the service was over, to go away in. This civil quality of the garment still survives alongside the other; the full dress of an Anglican prelate at civil functions of importance (e.g. in parliament, or at court) is still rochet and chimere.
147:
727:
17:
133:
but without sleeves, and is usually made of scarlet or black cloth. In modern
English use the garment is worn as part of the ceremonial dress of Anglican bishops. It is a long sleeveless gown of silk or satin, open down the front, gathered in at the back between the shoulders, and with slits for the
368:
In the
Anglican form for the consecration of bishops the newly consecrated prelate, hitherto vested in rochet, is directed to put on the rest of the episcopal habit, i.e. the chimere. The robe has thus become in the Church of England symbolic of the episcopal office, and is in effect a liturgical
354:(a long closed cloak with a slit in front for the arms) as the out-of-doors upper garment of bishops. These chimeres, the colors of which (murrey, scarlet, green, etc.) may possibly have denoted academical rank, were part of the civil costume of prelates. Thus in the inventory of Walter Skirlawe,
223:
certain
Anglican prelates have from time to time appeared in purple chimeres. An influential article on chimeres and their colours was penned by the Rev. N. F. Robinson at the end of the 19th century. It urged the retention of the garment, and especially the black chimere.
414:(cassock), from which it was distinguished by having a small cape and short, open arms (manches-fausses) reaching to the middle of the upper arm and decorated with buttons. The same ecclesiologists identified the zimarra with the
348:, died 1405) is described as wearing on his way to his execution a blue chimere with sleeves. But the word properly applies to the sleeveless tabard which tended to supersede, from the 15th century onwards, the inconvenient
514:
If an
Anglican bishop is part of the "platform party" at a commencement (that is, the speaker, or is giving the invocation or benediction) he may wear the rochet and chimere with the appropriate hood and academic cap.
429:
In the
Catholic Church, the zimarra was never a liturgical vestment nor part of choir dress. It was merely a more or less loose cloak that the clergy sometimes used as part of their everyday civilian dress. In
180:
For
Anglican bishops, the chimere is part of their formal vesture in choir dress — typically the chimere would be worn over a purple cassock and the rochet and would be accompanied by a black scarf known as a
358:(1405–1406), eight chimeres of various colors are mentioned, including two for riding (pro equitatura). The chimere was, moreover, a cold weather garment. In summer its place was taken by the
216:
on being consecrated. When this practice ceased, the distinction was largely ignored, as in recent times many bishops regularly wear the red chimere, regardless of their academic status.
340:
The word chimere, which first appears in
England in the 14th century, was sometimes applied not only to the tabard worn over the rochet, but to the sleeved cassock worn under it. Thus
751:
394:
404:
as the equivalent on the
European continent of the chimere and indicated that the English word was derived, through Old French, from the Italian term
333:), an upper garment worn in civil life by all classes of people both in England and abroad. It has therefore a common origin with certain items of
759:
the Report of the
British parliamentary sub-committee of Convocation on the ornaments of the church and its ministers, p. 31 (London, 1908);
173:. It is traditionally coloured either scarlet or black, although some bishops have innovated a purple chimere. The wrist-bands of the bishop's
619:
742:
668:
212:
and the black chimere by the others. This did not matter for many years, as formerly all bishops were formerly granted the degree of
99:
65:
452:
used in northern Europe. Images of the zimarra as worn by women can be seen at
Dressing the Italian Way and The Italian Showcase.
696:
151:
227:
In some churches the lead singer in the choir is permitted to wear a chimere. It is a traditional part of the vestment of a
684:
197:
in the later nineteenth and twentieth centuries, it is no longer common for the chimere to be worn when celebrating the
798:
511:. The differences are that the chimere is worn open and the Convocation Habit is worn closed with two large buttons.
381:
in 1662; and there is proof that the development of the chimere into at least a choir vestment was subsequent to the
803:
365:
By a late abuse the sleeves of the rochet were, from motives of convenience, sometimes attached to the chimere.
20:
307:
The origin of the chimere has been the subject of much debate; but the view that it is a modification of the
793:
341:
738:
665:
378:
465:, the Roman Catholic ecclesiastical garment that is most like the loose-fitting chimere itself is the
420:, which was described as "the uppermost garment of the clergy, worn over the soutane, instead of the
644:
382:
294:
240:
483:
also for lesser prelates in general, maintaining it only for a limited number of officials of the
345:
213:
209:
166:
700:
500:
623:
475:
Instruction on the Dress, Titles and Coats-of-Arms of Cardinals, Bishops and Lesser Prelates
431:
355:
186:
76:
42:
661:
293:('wintry'), originally referred to a winter overcoat (cf. the cognate mythological monster
672:
194:
496:
334:
258:
130:
123:
154:
bishops wearing scarlet chimeres over rochets; in the background other bishops are in
138:, colored either black or scarlet (a combination referred to as "convocation robes").
787:
746:
733:
573:
279:
301:
24:
146:
574:"The black chimere of Anglican Prelates: a plea for its retention and proper use"
499:, a slightly modified version of the chimere is, for instance, prescribed at the
484:
468:
220:
170:
119:
311:
is now discarded, and it is practically proved to be derived from the medieval
688:
208:
Traditionally, the red chimere was worn only by bishops holding the degree of
202:
755:. Vol. 6 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 164–165.
704:
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112:
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28:
732:
This article incorporates text from a publication now in the
601:
401:
264:
159:
145:
15:
410:. It cited ecclesiologists as defining the zimarra as a kind of
308:
190:
155:
473:, whose use by cardinals and bishops was abolished by the 1969
440:
is generally used not of a close-fitting garment, such as the
91:
57:
282:
79:
48:
555:
553:
551:
538:
536:
534:
532:
530:
528:
129:
A descendant of a riding cloak, the chimere resembles an
82:
51:
444:, but of a loose over-garment, similar to the fur-lined
578:
Transactions of the St Paul's Ecclesiological Soc.
778:
Traité pratique de la construction, etc., des églises
100:
66:
645:"The Italian Showcase - Chris at the Realm of Venus"
421:
415:
349:
328:
322:
316:
689:"Guide to documents and events - Twentieth Century"
304:, and is still worn by some university professors.
88:
85:
54:
45:
771:Dizionario dell erudizione storico-ecclesiastica
201:, though the practice is still kept up by some
507:— and as such it is referred to as the
478:
466:
460:
435:
405:
256:
189:. The chimere may be worn when vested in the
8:
445:
377:containing this direction was added to the
300:Its secular precursor was worn also by the
273:
267:
177:typically match the colour of the chimere.
165:The chimere is worn by the bishops of the
27:, wearing a black chimere over his white
559:
542:
524:
773:(Venice, 1861), vol. 103, s.v. Zimarra
693:The Cardinals of the Holy Roman Church
602:"Category:Schaube - Wikimedia Commons"
263:, 'sheepskin coat') derives from the
7:
662:Herbert Thurston, "Clerical Costume"
278:, possibly derived ultimately from
477:. The same document abolished the
193:, but not necessarily. Because of
14:
649:realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net
572:Robinson, the Rev. N. F. (1898),
459:is derived from the Italian word
725:
697:Florida International University
75:
41:
219:On the analogy of the Catholic
1:
289:
122:, and, formally as part of
822:
620:"Dressing the Italian way"
283:
134:arms. It is worn over the
780:, ii. 538 (Paris, 1878).
776:X. Barbier de Montault,
400:spoke of the zimarra or
169:as a component of their
21:Archbishop of Canterbury
752:Encyclopædia Britannica
739:Phillips, Walter Alison
396:Encyclopædia Britannica
244:
479:
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32:
666:Catholic Encyclopedia
606:commons.wikimedia.org
389:Catholic counterparts
379:Book of Common Prayer
149:
19:
501:University of Oxford
185:, with an optional
799:Anglican vestments
764:Costume on Brasses
671:2012-03-16 at the
346:Archbishop of York
214:Doctor of Divinity
210:Doctor of Divinity
195:liturgical changes
167:Anglican Communion
163:
142:Ecclesiastical use
33:
685:Miranda, Salvador
584:, London: 181–220
509:Convocation Habit
505:Convocation Dress
342:Richard le Scrope
247:; Modern French:
811:
804:Robes and cloaks
762:Herbert Druitt,
756:
731:
729:
728:
709:
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631:
622:. Archived from
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398:Eleventh Edition
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673:Wayback Machine
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541:
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503:for doctors in
493:
455:While the word
391:
237:
144:
102:
78:
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67:
44:
40:
12:
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5:
819:
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815:
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794:Academic dress
786:
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766:(London, 1906)
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747:Chisholm, Hugh
717:
714:
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636:
611:
593:
564:
562:, p. 165.
547:
545:, p. 164.
523:
522:
520:
517:
497:academic dress
495:As an item of
492:
489:
390:
387:
335:academic dress
302:Roman Senators
255:; cf. Spanish
236:
233:
143:
140:
124:academic dress
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
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734:public domain
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720:(incomplete)
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626:on 2011-04-04
625:
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583:
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628:. Retrieved
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586:, retrieved
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494:
491:Academic use
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395:
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351:cappa clausa
339:
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238:
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36:
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25:William Laud
769:G. Moroni,
485:Roman Curia
480:mantelletta
469:mantelletta
434:, the term
383:Reformation
251:; Italian:
221:mantelletta
171:choir habit
120:choir dress
788:Categories
630:2011-06-06
588:2013-02-06
519:References
290:cheimérios
241:Old French
239:The word (
203:low-church
741:(1911). "
423:mantellum
417:epitogium
330:collobium
284:χειμέριος
205:bishops.
199:Eucharist
152:Episcopal
705:53276621
669:Archived
371:vestment
318:tabardum
295:Chimaera
275:chimaera
245:chamarre
150:Several
113:Anglican
111:worn by
749:(ed.).
743:Chimere
736::
716:Sources
462:zimarra
457:chimere
448:Schaube
442:cassock
437:zimarra
432:Italian
412:soutane
407:zimarra
402:simarre
324:taberda
269:chimera
259:zamarra
253:zimarra
249:simarre
235:History
116:bishops
109:garment
107:) is a
37:chimere
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730:
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375:rubric
373:. The
360:tippet
313:tabard
229:verger
183:tippet
175:rochet
160:mitres
136:rochet
29:rochet
664:, in
265:Latin
156:copes
101:chim-
701:OCLC
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