Knowledge (XXG)

Christian Kaufmann (alpine guide)

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steep, rugged slopes to "delightful" lakes, and finally reached an altitude of 8,000 feet in order to "survey Mt. Bryce and its approaches . . . with strong field glasses." On August 21, they begin their climb at 4:40 in the morning, roped together before tackling the snow wall, and continued thus throughout the day." One 70 feet high cliff "threatened defeat," but "Christian immediately led the way: Hold after hold gave way as tried them one by one, and fragments rattled down the gully and leapt from rock to rock in ever growing bounds till, lost to sight and sound, they dashed to final rest upon the glacier 6,000 feet below . . . Fortunately Kaufmann is a magnificent rock-climber, and it was a treat to watch the skill and science he displayed in his advance slowly and cautiously towards his goal." Kaufmann, "sometimes with arms and legs outstretched, like great starfish," overcame one difficulty after another "with cat-like tread, face inwards towards the slope." After reaching the 11,750-foot summit, eleven hours later, at 3:40 pm, they spent little time at the top. But they soon realize that the 70 feet of cliff encountered earlier could not be descended before dark. Rather than freezing without shelter in arctic winds during a night, Kaufmann decided to descend the mountain in darkness. Outram, still roped to his guide, went first, and Kaufmann, in the upper, less secure position, moved cautiously down the rocky cliff.
879:(1846-1931) also attempted to climb the mountain by a more difficult route. Christian and Benham were successful, but Hans and Fay had to abandon the climb due to snowy conditions. To honor his accomplishments, Fay, a respected mountaineer, had been promised that Heejee Peak (#1) would be named in his honor by the Geographic Board of Canada, and he wanted to be the first to climb the mountain, which was to bear his name. Fay was angered that he had been beaten to the top and suspected that the Kaufmann brothers had played a trick on him. Fay was emphatic that he had been misled: “I should have probably made the first ascent of the new Mt. Fay which I missed by Hans Kaufmann's leading me, against my protest, up Consolation Valley, while Christian led Miss Benham around by the familiar ‘Hourglass Couloir’ to its virgin summit.” He accused the Kaufmanns of conspiracy and demanded that the CPR dismiss them. In the end, Hans Kaufmann's contract was not renewed, and, at the end of the 1904 season, he ended guiding in Canada. Christian continued working for the CPR until the end of the 1906 season. 960:
seven weeks (from June 20 to August 10, 1909) in the Valais, ascending 9 peaks, including Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, and Aigille du GrĂ©pon. Allen, grandson of Harriet Beecher Stowe, was “one of the foremost authorities on the use of anesthetics” and worked in Cuba with General Leonard Wood on the causes and prevention of yellow fever. J. Duke Smith, a fellow Alpine enthusiast from Boston, often join Allen and Kaufmann (e.g., Matterhorn, Rothorn, and the “High-level Route from Chamonix to Zermatt"). He comments that “whatever I have learned about the mountains I owe to Christian.” The Sanders family—Harry, Jack, Cathi, and Helen—from London made rigorous climbs with Kaufmann in 1908 and 1909. On June 26, 1908, Ethel Reddan (Hampstead, London), a member of the Ladies Alpine Club, climbed the Wetterhorn as well as the Little and Big Schreckhorn with Kaufmann.
531:, Outram says that “big climbing commenced on July 19 and between this date & Aug. 26, 10 first ascents of larger peaks were made, several new passes and a considerable quantity of mountain exploration achieved. On all but two occasions Kaufmann & I climbed alone, as my expected companions were unable at the last moment to make the trip, and he is one of a very small number of Swiss guides with whom such an undertaking could be safely carried through, as the conditions were such that only the highest qualities of skill & experience could have achieved—with only two on the rope— without accident or extreme peril on several of the climbs we made. No praise could be too great for his work on Mt. Bryce, whilst on Mt. Forbes and numerous other occasions he had opportunity to demonstrate his quite first-class ability and did so most thoroughly.” 364:—an accomplished explorer and mountaineer—climbed seven weeks with Kaufmann, completing a staggering sixteen ascents in the Bernese, Graian, and Pennine alps. Longstaff considered himself very lucky to be able to employ Kaufmann, "a first-rate guide . . . young, very handsome, refined, and of quick intelligence . . . a real artist," who brilliantly tackled peaks that he "had never seen, much less set foot on." By observing Kaufmann, he says he "learned more mountaineering than could have gained by any other means." Ada (1877-1949) and Elizabeth (born 1878) Crossley from Burnley, England, comment that their climbs were "long and difficult , adding that "it is only guides of exceptional ability who would undertake it with two ladies." Daniel P. Rhodes, who later wrote 943:
considering the snow too dangerous at 20,700 feet. A third attempt on September 30 that began at 2 am and involved crossing the Zemu glacier by moonlight was also abandoned because of deep, soft snow and inclement weather at 20,000 feet. In his various reports to the Alpine Club (London), Kellas says that the Kaufmanns turned back because of heavy snow and storms. Although he later explains that the Swiss guides were unsatisfactory, he never directly says the Kaufmanns suffered from altitude sickness; however, Himalaya summits are predominantly over 20,000 feet, and the Kaufmanns were accustomed to heights of 10,000 to 16,000 feet, so that Swiss guides were not as acclimatized to such heights as the native sherpas.
872:, an English mountaineer and traveler, who had climbed many Alpine peaks in her youth with her father. She employed both Kaufmanns and climbed numerous peaks with them: Mts. Lefroy, Victoria, Whyte, Stephen, Temple, Assiniboine, as well as Pope's Peak, Yamnee Peak, Shappee Peak, and an unknown summit; four were first ascents. One of their most strenuous expeditions took place in late August 1904. Leaving Lake Louise at midnight, Benham and the Kaufmanns crossed Abbott Pass, descended to Lake O’Hara, making their way along Cataract Valley to the summit of Mt. Stephen, reaching the top at 7:30 pm, and, finally, descending after dark to the town of Field, arriving at 3:00 am, 27 hours after leaving Lake Louise. 732:. . . There had been some competition and even animosity between the two when Outram made the first ascent of Mount Columbia following Collie's preparatory exploration of the area. The fine Victorian manners of both gentlemen were demonstrated on this first ascent. At one point Collie, rather than increase the risk to his companions of being the fourth on the rope, abandoned the ascent. After Outram successfully climbed the second cliff, he sent Christian and Hans Kaufmann back down to accompany Collie up the difficult section, feeling that Collie, 'more than all the rest, deserved the gratification and honour of being the first to conquer Mount Forbes'." 739:(1861-1940) and his wife Francis (1872–1937) to the summit of Mt. Stephen; both Westons were experienced mountaineers and are credited with introducing mountain climbing in Japan during the late-nineteenth century. Walter commented that Kaufmann's "strength & skill are only equalled by his care & attention. He well deserves the place he has gained at the top of the tree of his profession." Later in the season (September 1902), Kaufmann took George B. Dorr to the top of Mt. Stephan and across Abbott's Pass. Dorr was an active conservationist and noted philanthropist who is credited with the establishment of 439:, while Whymper and G. W. Franklyn, his photographic assistant, travelled in the sleeping car. The relationship between Whymper and the guides continued to go badly. During the journey, in northern Ontario, for example, there was an issue about a lack of sleeping blankets for the guides, which Whymper failed to remedy. Whymper and Klucker exchanged sharp words; and all four guides were sour at Whymper. On June 9, 1901, the mountaineers arrived in Banff at 5:30 am, after a four-day rail trip from Montreal to Banff by steam train; the entire journey from London to Banff had taken 17 days. 368:(1903), remarked that Christian is "untiring, quick, and cautious" and "speaks English unusually well." David Davidson, from August 9 to Sept. 1, 1900, climbed nine peaks in the Oberland (Eiger, Mönch, Schreckhorn, Weisshorn) and in the Valais (Col de Bertol, Grandes Dents ridge, Dent Blanche), remarking that "on the Mönch he had to cut steps in hard and very steep ice for 6 consecutive hours, but he worked most cheerfully and untiringly throughout." Finally, twenty-year-old Reginald Thomas Collins (1880-1918)--who accompanied Herbert Ashley Gaitskell, a surgeon in London at 2378:(1911): "Klein Schreckhorn ĂŒber den Nordgrat. 4. Juli. Mr. J. W. S. Brady mit Christian und Hans Kaufmann verließen das Gleckstein-Hotel um 3 Uhr morgens und folgten der Lauteraarsattel-Route bis zu den Firnfeldern des Ober Grindelwaldgletschers. Dann nach rechts ( Osten ) wendend, erreichten sie den mit 2815 im Siegfr. markierten Fuß des langen Nordgrates des Gipfels, folgten diesem ĂŒber einige gebrochene Felsen, Schnee und steile feste Felsen zum Gipfel, welcher um 9 Uhr 15 Min. vormittags ( 6 Âœ Stunden, Halte inbegriffen, vom Gleckstein-Hotel aus ) erreicht wurde." 455:
frequently ordered cases of whiskey and beer that his drinking became legendary; in stark contrast to the abstinence that the Swiss guides had agreed to in their CPR contracts, Whymper excesses became the object of criticism. In fact, one of the surviving camp photographs from 1901 shows a row of liquor bottles on top of the shipping box; below the crate is a sign, sarcastically written by one of the guides or outfitters, that reads, "The Remains of E. Whymper." Such humorous mischief allowed the guides to vent their displeasure at their leader's arrogance.
705:"Drawn out for one long hour of concentrated tension were the successive experiences of helpless groping in the dark depths for something to rest a foot upon, of blind search all over the chilled rocky surface for a knob or tiny crack where the numbed fingers might find another hold, of agonizing doubt as to their stability when found, of eerie thrill and sickening sensation when the long-sought support crumbled beneath the stress and hurtled downward into the blackness of space, whilst the hollow reverberations of its fall reechoed through the silence." 381: 1874:, p. 311). The most likely summit between these two mountains is today's Division Mountain (9,910 ft), named by Charles D. Walcott in 1919. It has a “double-headed" summit, which may have been Outram's reason for the selection, to honor Hans and Christian Kaufmann. However, this peak did not become Mt. Kaufmann; instead another double peak, between Mount Sarbach and Epaulette Mountain, was suggested by Outram in 1903, and that name (Kaufmann Peaks, 10,200 ft) was officially recognized in 1920 by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. 2119:, visible from Moraine Lake near Lake Louise, consists of ten summits, named from east to west by Samuel Allen in 1894 after the numbers 1 to 10 in the Stoney Indian language: Heejee (#1, now Mt. Fay), Nom (#2 now Mt. Little), Yamnee (#3, now Mt. Bowlen), Tonsa (#4), Sapta (#5 now Mt. Perren), Shappee (#6 now Mt. Allen), Shagowa (#7 Mt. Tuzo), Shakhnowa (#8 now Mt. Deltaform), Neptuak (#9), and Wenkchemna (#10). Although Charles Fay was not the first to climb Heejee (#1), the mountain was still named in his honor. 353:(now called “Elliott's Wangli”), Elliott jumped from a steep icy slope to some rocks but slipped sliding down the mountain to his death. The guide, Franz Biener from Zermatt, could most certainly have saved Elliott, had they been roped together. While taking a tour of the Grindelwald glacier many years later, Charles’ son Claude made a grim comment as he approached an icy fissure: “My uncle is down there.” Julius Marshall Elliott is, in fact, buried in the Grindelwald cemetery. 443:
guides. Whymper “expected them to always be at his beck and call—attending to his whims and commands and acting like porters and bearers. They, on the other hand, were professional mountaineering guides from the Alps, where porters and apprentice guides carried their heavy loads, set up the camps and did the cooking and clean-up duties. Mountain guides safely guided their clients up and down the mountains. They weren't expected to be beasts of burden, cooks, or pot washers.”
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Edward Whymper” prank played on the famous English mountaineer (see above) in 1901. And Edward Feuz, Jr., was convinced about the deception and viewed the two Kaufmann with great disfavor. However, Feuz’ version of the events should be viewed skeptically, since he may have been jealous of the popularity and successes of the Kaufmanns, especially their independence, genial nature, English fluency, and above-average gratuities from clients.
717: 519: 494:. In many ways, he was as demanding as Whymper and was often displeased with his guides. In August, the 36-year-old Outram met the 61-year-old Whymper, and the 31-year-old Kaufmann. Whymper invited Outram to join his well-financed and well-equipped group. The newly formed group made two first ascents: On August 15, 1901, Christian Kaufmann, James Outram, Edward Whymper, Christian Klucker, and Joseph Pollinger climbed 506:(3,123 m (10,246 ft)) with Outram and Pollinger. The day that Kaufmann and Outram climbed four peaks in one day marked the beginning not only of a successful professional partnership but also a strong, respectful friendship. And, although Outram headed south at the end of the season with the Swiss guides Christian HĂ€sler and Christian Bohren to successfully make a first ascent of the "Canadian Matterhorn," 952: 904: 2204:
return on the opposite side of Yoho peak, by way of the Twin falls. By a curious coincidence, the peak was climbed on the same day by Miss Henrietta L. Tuzo, a member of the Club, but one who was not visiting the camp. Under the care of the Swiss guide, Christian Kaufmann, she made the ascent by a different route, and the two parties met upon the summit." “Report of the Chief Mountaineer. Report Camp Yoho.”
843: 693: 976:. In July 1911, Christian's brother Hans joined Brady in a climb of the Klein Scheckhorn over the Upper Grindelwald Glacier of the Lauteraarsattel-Route. Brady also recorded that “Christian, my friend and guide, was with me last March in Norway.” Although the weather was not favorable that year, Christian guided Brady to two Norwegian summits: Ruten (4974 ft)in Oppland near Fefor, 467: 1043: 447: 463:(10,495 ft) to take measurements, “Kaufmann and Pollinger . . . refused to carry . . . the instruments and packs. This was the beginning of an outright revolt by the four guides, and Kaufmann was nominated to be their chief spokesman and negotiator.” Kaufmann drafted certain conditions that should govern the rest of the 1901 expedition, and Whymper reluctantly signed. 349:(1835-1911), the former Lt. Governor of Bengal, on a relatively easy climb to the Gleckstein hut and back to Grindelwald. But it was Charles’ brother Julius Marshall Elliott (1841-1869) who had died 29 years earlier, on July 27, 1869, in an accident while climbing the Scheckhorn unroped. Elliott had insisted that the party not be roped together; when the party reached an 78: 2359:(born 1889 in Baltimore, MD) was married to Dorothy Wendell of Boston in 1916, received his medical degree in 1917, served in the transport service during World War I (1918-1919), and practiced medicine at New York Presbyterian Hospital. An avid mountaineer, he had climbed the Gross Lauteraarhorn and Mont Blanc with Christian Kaufmann in August 1911. 767:, the world explorer, climbed with Christian and Hans expressing regret that the weather at Field, B.C., was so poor that it prevented her from any challenging climbs with Christian, who "has done so much pioneering work in this country that it would be difficult to find a better guide." She hoped to meet him again for further climbs in Grindelwald. 25: 1298:, p. 53). Tayleur, a Charterhouse student, and his sister Lilia had befriended Winston Churchill during their August 1894 stay in Grindelwald; a short time later, Tayleur climbed the Monte Rosa with Churchill and their guide, Johannes Andermatten. See Churchill, “Winston to Lady Randolph," p. 514; and Andermatten's 927:, and ascend any mountains of the region which might prove accessible." And he wanted to do scientific work "in connection with variations in the composition of the atmosphere at high altitudes, and alterations in the relative numbers the red and white corpuscles in blood," what he called "mountain lassitude" or 886:
On September 15, 1904, Henrietta L. Tuzo climbed Mt. Victoria with Kaufmann, saying she hoped “to do further ascents with him another season.” And, indeed, she and Christian Kaufmann climbed Mt. Collie (10,315 ft.) on July 12, 1906, and, on July 21, they were the first to stand on "the summit of
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The outfitter Jimmy Simpson remarked that "'Outram wanted all the glory himself' and claimed that he treated his guide Kaufmann as 'just help.'" But these remarks seem doubtful in light of Outram's repeated praise of his guide. In fact, Outram treats Kaufmann's only fault humorously and forgivingly:
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Later in mid-August 1901, Whymper's displeasure turned to violence: "Suddenly Whymper's right flew out, connecting with Klucker's jaw, and the Swiss hit the dust. In a jiffy it looked as if the whole four of them were going to take a hand in the fray. We yelled at them to stop, and they did." Whymper
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Through funding from the CPR, Whymper and his guides stayed in luxury at the Hotel de la Post at Blackfriars in London. Moreover, the Alpine Club and the European Manager of the CPR showed the guides great hospitality during their stay in London. However, a social rift between Whymper and his guides
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In recognition of his superior mountaineering and many first ascents in Canada, Christian was honored by having several Canadian landmarks officially named in his honor. In 1903, James Outram suggested that a mountain with twin summits in the lower Mistaya valley of Alberta be officially called the
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Outram's respect for Kaufmann is vividly expressed in his detailed account of climbing Mt. Bryce. On July 21, in preparation of their climb, the two mountaineers left camp, made their way through forests of fallen trees, chopped-down a big spruce to make "a bridge across the swift torrent," climbed
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At the turn-of-the-century, Kaufmann guided Herbert J. Mothersill (1868-1937) four times, including not only trips in the Bernese Oberland (Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Jungfrau, Finsteraarhorn, Eiger-Mitteleggi, and Silberhorn in 1895 and 1896) but also to Zermatt (Matterhorn, Breithorn, Weishorn, and
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and then to the summit of the Wetterhorn. That year, nineteen-year-old Churchill, his brother Jack, and his tutor J. D. G. Little were on a walking tour of Switzerland; they visited Grindelwald and stayed at the Bear Hotel. Churchill was impressed with his first encounter with the high alps, saying
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in honor of Christian (10,200 ft.) and Hans (10,151 ft.). Professor Herschel C. Parker of Columbia University proposed that a lake west of Chimney Peak in British Columbia be named Kaufmann Lake; they had camped overnight at this lake while ascending Mount Deltaform in 1903. Finally, in
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Whether Christian and Hans really did conspire to deny Fay the first ascent of "his" mountain remains unclear due to a lack of primary evidence. Birrell does say that “the Kaufmann brothers had a reputation for playing practical jokes.” Indeed, Christian may well have had a role in “The Remains of
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In an age, when mountaineering was “a demonstration of masculinity” and when men feared that the “weaker sex” might "prove themselves capable of the same feats," Kaufmann gave women climbers equal social and professional recognition. He welcomed female climbers and thereby advanced their struggle
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Many of Kaufmann's clients used his services as a guide on repeated occasions. Freeman Allen (1870-1930), for example, climbed with Kaufmann in the Canadian Rockies (e.g., Mt. Victoria), the Bernese Oberland (e.g., Jungfrau and Mönch in June 1908, with Christian's brother Fritz Kaufmann), and the
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On September 21, 1895, Christian Kaufmann (age 24), his brother Peter (age 37), and nineteen-year-old Gordon Tayleur, an Englishman, successfully climbed the Mitteleggi of the Eiger. The event “was watched by guides, residents, and tourists along the whole Grindelwald valley.” A detailed account
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M. P. Bridgland, Chief Mountaineer of the Canadian Alpine Club, reported: "On July 12th, J. D. Patterson, accompanied by the Swiss guide, Gottfried Feuz, ascended Mt. Collie from a camp pitched the night before at the foot of the Twin falls. The ascent was made by way of the Yoho glacier and the
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Gordon Brooke Tayleur (born 1876, the son of Charles Tayleur, 1864-1903, Market Drayton, Shropshire, England) made several climbs with Kaufmann and his half- brother Peter, including ascents of the Mettenberg (Sept. 17, 1895); the Schreckhorn, Mönch, Jungfrau, Silberhorn, Wetterhorn (July 1895):
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after 1930, the eight final official entries show that he kept his climbing certificate current until his death. Moreover, there are entries in Alpine publications indicating that he was still actively climbing two years before his death. In fact, in July 1937, at age 64, he was snowed-in for 36
526:
Most likely, it was Outram who encouraged Christian Kaufmann to return to Canada a second time in 1902 for more adventurous climbs, and that year proved to be the most productive climbing year in their lives. For eight weeks in July and August 1902, Christian Kaufmann guided James Outram to the
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By June 18, 1901, Whymper, G. W. Franklyn, the four guides, the outfitters Bill Peyto and Jack Sinclair headed into the wilderness. Although there were eleven pack-horses, Whymper had not arranged for any porters. This and similar decisions exacerbated the friction between Whymper and his Swiss
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reacted with indignation, but, after learning that he might face a trial in the wilderness for assault, Whymper walked over to Klucker and apologized. The guides' further displeasure with Whymper came to a climax in late August, so that the guides went on strike. When asked by Whymper to climb
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Although Whymper was an accomplished alpinist, artist, lecturer, and writer, his social snobbery, belittling attitude, and excessive consumption of alcohol continued to spark clashes with the guides as well as the outfitters, Wild Bill Peyto and Jack Sinclair. During his excursions, Whymper so
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Christian Kaufmann belonged to an age of mountaineering when it was still customary to accompany a client to different countries and continents. Kaufmann established an international reputation as a superior mountain guide who deserves not only "a special place amongst the giants of Canadian
728:(1859-1942) were accomplished primarily because of the professionalism of Christian's brother, Hans Kaufmann. Hans also travelled to Canada for eight weeks in July and August 1902 and had been climbing with Collie's group when, in August 1902, the two groups "combined forces . . . to attempt 325:
and crossing the moraine before the steep climb. Tayleur himself remarked on Christian's endurance, especially his “work step cutting was tremendous, requiring seven hours steady cutting.” Moreover, as they reached the top, they climbed in darkness and came to the final ridge at 11 pm.
942:
On September 8, 1907, the Kaufmanns guided Kellas in an attempt to reach the summit of Simvu (22,800 ft.), but, encountering a snowstorm, they were forced to abandon the climb at 19,000 feet. Two days later they attempted the summit again, but the Kaufmanns again abandoned the ascent,
321:(London): “All available telescopes and opera-glasses were in requisition, and it is not too much to say that each step taken for nine hours was both seen and noted, so that some even professed to give an exact number.” They left Grindelwald in darkness at 3:30 am, making their way to 919:(1868-1921), a Scottish mountaineer and physiologist who was interested in studying the causes of altitude sickness. Neither Kellas nor the Swiss had been in the Himalayas before, although Kellas was to make seven more trips to the region. The expedition, including the two Kaufmanns, left 1073:
obituary: "Christian Kaufmann, Swiss guide, who was well-known in Canada for his mountain-climbing feats died at the age of 66. He also took part in expeditions in the Himalayas." Funeral services were held on January 15, 1939, and Christian was laid to rest in the Grindelwald cemetery.
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with five fellow guides, Edward Feuz, Christian HĂ€sler, Christian Bohren, Friedrich Michel, and his brother Hans Kaufmann. In 1905, he travelled with three of the Feuz guides, Edward, Sr.; Edward, Jr.; and Fritz Michael. Finally, in 1906, he sailed with Edward and Gottfried Feuz on the
482:(1864-1925), an English Vicar and experienced climber, who had come to Canada with his brother to recover from overwork ("a brain collapse"). Outram's sojourn in Canada proved to be far from relaxing; he had begun a strenuous series of ascents guided by Christian HĂ€sler Sr, including 527:
summits of ten of the highest peaks in Canadian Rockies, including Mt. Columbia (3,747 m / 12,293 ft), the second highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. At times they travelled from 30 to 80 miles away from the railway lines to the base of mountains. In his entry in Kaufmann's
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From an early age, Christian and his brothers tended goats and cows on the upper pastures, learning about and becoming accustomed to alpine conditions. “From the time he left school, he began to help the family finances by carrying rucksacks for travellers over the
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and the Finsteraarhorn summit from the rail station. Kaufmann continued to receive praise as a careful, first-rate guide and a pleasant, entertaining companion, who proved to be "an excellent teacher of beginners." Appropriately enough the last testimony in the
420:, France; and Christian Kaufmann from Grindelwald) to organize a trip to the Canadian Rockies. As Klucker remarked in his memoir, “The Whymper climbing team for Canada consisted of two solid catholic, married Josephs and two rebellious, single Christians.” 1083:
mountaineering" but also among the greatest of Alpine climbers. He received not only the praise of accomplished mountaineers for this unparalleled knowledge, strength, and endurance but also the respect of novices for his patience and teaching skills.
935:(11,400 ft.) and encountered several other rivers with flood conditions. On August 12, one of the Kaufmanns was "unwell" and stayed at a "rest-house near Naoshera," but he finally returned to Srinagar, while Kellas and the others travelled on to 713:"We looked forward to a good hot supper, when, to our dismay, it was discovered that we were matchless! Christian, probably for the first time in his career, had omitted to bring a single one--a doubly reprehensible oversight for a habitual smoker." 305:, Winston had developed a keen interest in mountaineering, inspired by Edward Whymper's lantern-side lecture at the school. In fact, after his alpine climbs, Winston had expressed a desire to become a mountaineer in a letter to Harrow's headmaster, 2539:"Kaufmann Lake," British Columbia Geographical Names: "Named by Professor H.C. Parker of Columbia University, after his Swiss guide Christian Kaufmann; during their ascent of Mount Deltaform they had camped overnight at this lake." ( 963:
On April 20, 1911, thirty-nine-year-old Christian Kaufmann married Emma Christen (born 1881 in Herzogenbuchsee). They later had three children: Johann (1914, died in infancy), Hans Wilhelm (1916-1942), and Christian Alexander.
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in 1912, Kaufmann and other guides began their tours at the 11,332-foot rail terminus. Otto (New York City) and Robert P. Koenig (Cambridge, Mass.), for instance, began their August 1925 tour across the Aletschglacier to the
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Finsteraarhorn (Sept 11, 1895); and two earlier ascents of the Eiger (Aug. 10, 1894; July 27, 1895), calling Christian a “plucky and careful guide . . . who is steady, strong and in every way splendid” (Chr. Kaufmann,
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hrs. Outram and Kaufmann "ascented from high bivouac; "some first-class rock work." On the last 2 peaks, Prof. Collie's party with Hans Kaufmann, joined them. Christian led on Forbes and alternately on Freshfield.
372:, on a climb of the Grosses Schreckhorn (on October 26, 1900)--is typical of Kaufmann's clients when he calls him "a first-class guide." Reginald Collins died in 1918 on a French battlefield during World War I. 1315:(London) 21 September 1895, 7. Issue 34688. McCormick, Chaplain and Canon of York at Trinity College, Dublin, climbed with Christian Kaufmann on August 29, 1896, a year after writing the article for the 972:
As Kaufmann's client "for almost the whole summer" on more than 25 exploits in the Bernese and Pennine Alps, John W. S. Brady from Baltimore filled several pages (October 15, 1911) in Kaufmann's
827:(1867-1931), a physicist at Columbia University, enjoyed not only the challenge of his first ascents but also gave a scientific dimension to his climbs with Kaufmann. He commented in Kaufmann's 1271:
Johannes Andermatten guided Churchill and L. S. Amery to the summit of the Monte Rosa. The Broadwater Collection, Churchill Archives Centre, Churchill College, Cambridge, England: BRDW V 3/2
1066:) in 1930. HĂ€sler recalls that he "met Christen Kaufmann in late autumn of 1938, smiling and as merry as ever, tramping down a dripping hillside at Grindelwald, under a big blue umbrella." 313:, reported that Winston had suffered from mountain sickness and a badly flayed face. These unpleasant experiences probably discouraged Churchill from following a career in mountaineering. 1870:
Outram says that "Kaufmann and I made an expedition to a snowy peak — for which the name of Mt. Kaufmann is suggested — occupying a commanding position between Mt. Lyell and Mt. Forbes" (
1034:(June 18, 1930) by Arthur Burton mentions Kaufmann's "son, the younger Christian, took Mrs. Burton and me to the top of the Jungfrau and then on to the Concordia Hut and the Eggishorn." 309:, who positively encouraged him: “You have got the figure of a mountaineer, and you ought to make yourself a name.” However, his life-long friend L. S. Amery, with whom he later climbed 1651: 1319:. McCormick, a close friend and supporter of Edward Whymper, had planned to climb the Matterhorn with Whymper, but bad weather prevented his arrival in Zermatt. See also Emil Henry. 875:
The first ascent of Mt. Heejee by Christian Kaufmann and Gertrude Benham was more controversial. They set out on July 20, 1904; however, on the same day, Hans Kaufmann and Professor
923:(5,200 ft.) in the Kashmir Valley on August 3, 1907, heading for "the most stupendous mountain barrier in the world." Kellas said his objective "was to explore the glaciers of 249:.” He often assisted his father, and, after a three-year apprenticeship as a porter, Christian Kaufmann passed rigorous examinations, so that on June 24, 1892, he was certified in 657:(3,507 m / 11,506 ft); "from a high bivouac, ascented in 11 hrs.; the snow conditions were very bad; some extremely awkward rock work;" descended the mountain "in the dark." 384:
Edward Whymper's guides, Canadian Rockies, 1901. From left to right: Christian Kaufmann, Joseph Bossonay, Christian Klucker, and Joseph Pollinger. Alpine Club Library Collection.
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that “the spectacle of the sunrise striking the peaks of the Bernese Oberland is a marvel of light and colour unsurpassed in my experience.” Like many of his classmates at
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Grindelwald Guides (back row from left): Christian Kaufmann; Peter Kaufmann; Peter Jaggi; Peter Bernet; Christian Kaufmann; Christian Jossi. Photo: F. Ormiston-Smith.
273:. Gustave Jacot (1864-1939) from Le Locle wrote that Christian and his father (Graben Peter) had guided him in heavy snow (June 20, 1892). On July 26 & 27, 1892, 1202:
Churchill does not identify the third guide: “Christian Burgener ascended the Wetterhorn with me on the 14th . . . as first guide (3 guides).” Christian Burgener.
2356: 209:
Christian (a.k.a. Christen) was born on March 7, 1872, in Grindelwald to Peter Kaufmann (1832-1903) and Margaretha (nĂ©e Baumann, 1839–1903). His father, called
1055:
hours at the Dossen hut with his client Claude Wilson. As HĂ€sler notes in his tribute to Kaufmann, "It was the last walk in the mountains for both of them."
1667:. Victoria, BC: Trafford Publishing, 2007, pp. 246; Patillo describes not only this incident but Whymper's entire 1901 excursions in Canada in great detail. 2103: 342:
Rothorn) and Chamonix (Mont Blanc in 1897); ironically, after many challenging climbs, Mothersill died after being fatally injured in a traffic accident.
292:
Early in his climbing career, on August 14 and 15, 1894, Kaufmann was one of three guides (including Christian Burgener as first guide) who led the young
907:
Sinioichu, Simvo, and Kangchen- junga viewed from the Zemu Glacier near Green Lake where Kellas and Kaufmann camped in 1907. Photo: Vittorio Sella. 1899.
221:. Christian was the eleventh of seventeen children in the family. His brother Friedrich (Fritz) Kaufmann (born 1878), brothers Rudolf (born 1875) and 709:
As Outram observed, after "nearly 17 hours of adventurous companionship," the mountaineers finally unloosened the rope that had bound them together.
846:
Christian Kaufmann next to a cairn, a human-made pile of stones, indicating to others that climbers had reached the mountain's summit (ca. 1905).
2018: 591:(3,337 m / 10,948 ft) with J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, and Christian's brother Hans Kaufmann. 8 hrs. ascent. 388:
Both Christian and Hans Kaufmann (separately) travelled to Canada in the spring or early summer of 1901 to promote climbing and tourism for the
198: 724:
Just as many of Outram's triumphs were only possible because of Christian Kaufmann's mountaineering skills, the successes of Outram's rival
1242: 2401: 1590:
Although Joseph Bossonney was actually from Chamonix, France, most of the mountaineering literature refers to the four guides as Swiss.
751:
Kaufmann made four more trips to Canada for the CPR (1903, 1904, 1905, and 1906). In April 1904, he crossed the Atlantic aboard the
277:
also climbed with Kaufmann. Dr. Gottfried Schwarz (1860-1925), an active member of the Swiss Alpine Club (Randen) and rector of the
1333: 2048: 2592: 2587: 931:. After experiencing difficulties crossing the Pir Panjal mountain range and fording the swollen Rembiara River, they crossed 428:
in Liverpool on May 23, 1901 (the ship's maiden voyage): Whymper was a saloon passenger; the guides travelled second class.
226: 160: 1219:: Companion Volume I: Part I, 1874-1896, ed. Randolph S. Churchill. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1967, pp. 514-515. 1096:
Alberta, there is a smaller Kaufmann Lake near Kaufmann Creek, a tributary steam that flows into the Mistaya River near
980:(7,600 ft.) near Bessheim. During that summer, they also climbed five peaks in the Maderanertal in the Canton Uri: 222: 166: 1405:, pp.78-81. Christian Kaufmann was not in Canada in 1899 as has been incorrectly stated elsewhere (see R. W. Sandford. 35: 1097: 522:
Christian Kaufmann on Victoria Glacier near the “Deathtrap” with Mt. Lefroy (left) and Mt. Victoria (right), ca. 1904.
1472: 839:. . . on all the peaks I had the kind interest and assistance of Christian Kaufmann in my scientific observations." 483: 479: 735:
Christian Kaufmann made additional climbs in 1902 that deserve mention. On May 22, he and Christian HĂ€sler guided
916: 450:
Humorous mischief: Whymper's liquor bottles with a sarcastic sign that reads, "The Remains of E. Whymper" (1901).
2269:
Rudolf Rubi comments that the relationship between the Kaufmanns and Kellas in Sikkim was not optimal (p. 216).
824: 789: 676: 503: 413: 389: 2116: 850:
On June 5, 1904, Christian and Hans Kaufmann guided John Duncan Patterson, later the third president of the
626:, 3,258 m / 10,689 ft) on the Divide Ridge, west of Mt. Lyell: the same evening they made their way by 539: 911:
After six climbing seasons (1901-1906) in Canada, Christian Kaufmann (with his brother Fritz) travelled to
2582: 764: 685: 346: 218: 836: 869: 851: 380: 274: 1480: 510:(3,616 m (11,864 ft)), his relationship with Christian Kaufmann made mountaineering history. 1215:
Churchill, Winston Spencer, “Winston to Lady Randolph” (August 12, 1894, Hotel du BĂ€r, Grindelwald) .
2577: 2572: 740: 548: 409: 981: 475: 393: 820:(3,320 m / 10,890 ft) with August Eggers, Herschel C. Parker, and his brother, Hans Kaufmann. 811:(3,424 m / 11,234 ft) with August Eggers, Herschel C. Parker, and his brother, Hans Kaufmann. 534:
The list of first ascents Kaufmann and Outram completed in those six weeks in 1902 is remarkable:
1652:“Passenger lists of the Lake Champlain arriving in Quebec, Que. and Montreal, Que. on 1865-1922,” 876: 785: 725: 491: 1718:
Vom Eiger in die Rockies: Berner OberlĂ€nder BergfĂŒhrer im Dienste der Canadian Pacific Railway
1020:
are limited to climbs in the Bernese Oberland, and, with the completion of the railway to the
928: 507: 405: 369: 293: 284: 190: 1440: 1389: 932: 623: 587: 361: 329: 234: 186: 716: 807: 495: 360:
that give insights into his character and the social conditions of the time. In 1899, Dr.
238: 1965: 1016:
At the age of 41, Christian Kaufmann reduced his climbing activities. The entries in his
1600: 951: 543:(3,747 m / 12,293 ft); a 22-hour expedition with "ice & snow work throughout." 1490: 1452: 1444: 1092: 842: 692: 518: 397: 297: 181:(March 7, 1872 – January 12, 1939) was a Swiss mountain guide who climbed in the 2566: 1971: 1262:: Companion Volume I, Part 1, 1874-1896. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Comp, 1967, p. 520. 1026: 1001: 977: 924: 912: 776: 736: 487: 460: 306: 302: 246: 1634: 903: 831:: "On our return from Mt. Hungabee we climbed Mt. Temple from Moraine Lake and made 1117: 1021: 993: 985: 859: 816: 798: 729: 634:(c. 10,500 ft.) and then to Thompson Pass and finally to their Columbia Camp, 596: 499: 466: 436: 2361: 1042: 955:
Christian Kaufmann (middle) and clients enjoy a mountain-side meal during a climb.
802:(3,492 m / 11,457 ft) with Herschel C. Parker and his brother, Hans Kaufmann. 770:
1903 was another very active year for Christian, including several first ascents:
446: 1950: 1525: 1150:. Interlaken. 1892. Courtesy Elisa Wolf-Kaufmann & Heimatmuseum, Grindelwald. 1460: 1448: 997: 653: 432: 269:
were written by members of Swiss watchmaking families after their climbs of the
1998: 502:(3,143 m / 10,312 ft). On August 9, 1901, Kaufmann made a first ascent of 435:
for the night, and left for the Rockies on June 5. The guides travelled in the
1484: 1476: 1468: 1456: 1148:
FĂŒhrerbuch, nach dem Reglement fĂŒr die BergfĂŒhrer und TrĂ€ger vom 24. Juni 1892
936: 892: 855: 832: 401: 310: 270: 250: 2243:
Kellas, Alexander Mitchell. "The Mountains of Northern Sikkim and Garhwal,"
1730: 600:(3,612 m / 11,850 ft) with Collie, Stutfield, Weed, Woolley, and Hans; 564: 498:(3,161 m / 10,371 ft) and, on August 19, 1901, the same group ascended 194: 1778: 1754: 891:; 3,245 m) above Alberta's Moraine Lake . . . . Peak Seven was later named 77: 2078: 1494: 1436: 989: 920: 490:
and first ascents of Mt. Vaux (3,310 m) and Chancellor Peak (3,280 m) in
417: 322: 242: 1475:
direct from the Col du Chardonnet , descending by the ordinary route to
996:(10,265 ft); and, in the South Tyrol, the two highest peaks of the 689:(3,260 m / 10,700 ft); "traversed from end to end; 8Âœ hrs ascent." 396:, Christian had special company. In Geneva, on May 11, 1901, he had met 2343:
Reddan bequested ÂŁ64,000 to the British Museum upon her death in 1957.
1464: 470:
CPR Mount Stephen House in Field was a home base for many mountaineers.
2517:. Bozen: Edition Raetia, 2011, and book review by Gertrud Pfister in 2101:
Benham, Gertrude. “’The Canadian Rockies,’ New Expeditions in 1904.”
1005: 863: 356:
During this period, there are several detailed entries in Kaufmann's
1258:
Churchill, Randolph S., ed. “Reverend J.E.C. Welldon to Winston”
1041: 950: 902: 841: 715: 691: 517: 465: 445: 379: 333:
The identification and registration pages of Christian Kaufmann's
328: 283: 1409:. Canmore: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, 1996, p. 10). 404:. On behalf of the CPR, Whymper had contacted four Swiss guides ( 1069:
Kaufmann died on January 12, 1939. His death was announced in a
400:, famous mountaineer, writer, illustrator, and conqueror of the 182: 720:
Christian & Hans Kaufmann with tent in Prospector's Valley.
1206:, p. 68. Copy courtesy Swiss Alpine Museum, Bern, Switzerland. 696:
Christian Kaufmann climbing in the Canadian Rockies (ca. 1903)
18: 1046:
Christian Kaufmann with his dog Prinz in Grindelwald (1930s).
431:
The group arrived in Montreal on June 2, 1901, stayed at the
217:, was a well-established certified mountain guide during the 2258:
Prelude to Everest: Alexander Kellas, Himalayan Mountaineer.
2515:
Frauen im Aufstieg: Auf Spurensuche in der Alpingeschichte
1050:
Although there are no climbing testimonies in Christian's
868:
In 1904, at the Chalet Lake Louise, the brothers also met
854:, to a first ascent of 3,311 m (10,863 ft) high 337:
certifying him as an official mountain guide in June 1892.
1844:(1923). Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2007, p. 288-291. 968:
In Switzerland and Norway with J. W. S. Brady (1911–1912)
478:
in Field, British Columbia, Whymper's group met Reverend
50: 46: 1665:
The Canadian Rockies: Pioneers, Legends, and True Tales
42: 1282:
Days of Fresh Air: Being Reminiscences of Outdoor Life
1038:
Retirement in Grindelwald and final years (1931–1939)
862:, Archdeacon of Alaska and future first ascendant of 2502:
Pushing the Limits: Story of Canadian Mountaineering
1803:
Vom Bergbauerdorf zum Fremdenort. Im Tal Grindelwald
939:, visiting the Kangchenjunga glacier along the way. 253:
as an official mountain guide and given a paginated
1966:
Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps
1362:"In Memoriam: Herbert J. Mothersill (1868--1937)," 780:(3,567 m / 11,703 ft), the highest peak of the 153: 145: 140: 124: 105: 97: 89: 84: 2230:"A peak bears her name to mark her alpine skill," 1650:Library and Archives Canada. Immigration Records. 1058:Kaufmann and his family had lived in Grindelwald, 992:(10,722 ft.), Scheerhorn (10, 810 ft.), 392:(CPR). Whereas Hans guided individual parties in 1954:. Surrey, BC: Rocky Mountain Books, 2000, p. 43. 1930:. Surrey, BC: Rocky Mountain Books, 2009, p. 34. 1349:"New Expeditions in 1897: Monte Rosa District," 2019:The FĂŒhrerbĂŒcher of Hans and Christian Kaufmann 1321:Triumph and Tragedy: The Life of Edward Whymper 1311:McCormick, Joseph. “Ascent of the Mitteleggi,” 1133:HĂ€sler, G.A. “Im Memoriam: Christen Kaufmann,” 424:became clear when they boarded the ocean liner 1118:Tauf-Rodel fĂŒr die Kirchengemeinde Grindelwald 680:(3,401 m / 11,158 ft); "8Âœ hrs. ascent." 2504:. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2000, p. 65. 2168:Kauffman, Andrew J. & William L. Putnam. 2013: 2011: 1951:50 Roadside Panoramas in the Canadian Rockies 1493:, ascending and descending the latter by the 1334:In Memoriam: Herbert J. Mothersill, 1868-1937 257:to record the testimonies of future clients. 201:, accomplishing several dozen first-ascents. 45:. Consider transferring direct quotations to 8: 2130:The Mountaineers: Famous Climbers in Canada. 1899:. New York: MacMillan Company, 1905, p. 408. 1422:. London: John Murray, 1950, pp.17 & 25. 70: 1379:. MĂŒnchen: Bergverlag Rother, 1933, p. 271. 1137:(London) 51, no. 258 (May 1939), 1310-1311. 947:In the Bernese and Pennine Alps (1908–1911) 2374:"Neue Bergfahrten in den Schweizeralpen," 2234:, Saskatoon, Canada (20 July 1929), p. 21. 2219:Inspiring Women: A Celebration of Herstory 1407:At the Top: 100 Years of Guiding in Canada 552:(3,498 m /11,476 ft); 8 hrs. ascent. 76: 69: 2365:26: 195-198 (1912), pp. 83, 176, 348-349. 2256:Mitchell, Ian R. & George W. Rodway. 1857:, pp.116-119, and Outram's report in the 1853:Outram's quotations from Chr. Kaufmann, 899:In the Himalayas with A. M. Kellas (1907) 2260:Edinburgh: Luath Press, 2011, pp. 80-84. 229:(1858-1924) all became mountain guides. 225:(1875-1930) as well as his half-brother 1805:. Vol II. Grindelwald: Sutter, AG, 1986 1431:Here is Longstaff's entry in Kaufmann' 1375:Zsigmondy, Emil & Wilhelm Paulcke. 1109: 1447:, descending by the Agassiz Joch; the 747:Further climbing in Canada (1903–1906) 2217:Youngberg, Gail & Mona Holmlund. 1471:from the Italian hut to Zermatt; the 36:too many or overly lengthy quotations 7: 1928:Jimmy Simpson: Legend of the Rockies 1897:In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 1884:In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 1872:In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 1842:In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 376:In Canada with Edward Whymper (1901) 2487:"Zum Tode von Christian Kaufmann," 1605:Historische Lexikon der Schweiz HLS 1232:. London: Butterworth, 1931, p. 49. 1193:, Personalia alphabetisch, D IV.00. 1062:, but moved closer to the village ( 1230:My Early Life. A Roving Commission 858:. The following month they guided 514:In Canada with James Outram (1902) 14: 2521:41: 2 (Summer 2014). pp. 363-364. 1435:(Aug. 28, 1899): “ traversed the 1353:(London) 1897, issue 138, p. 523. 261:Early climbing career (1892–1901) 205:Family and early life (1872–1892) 2474:"Christian Kaufmann." Obituary. 2049:August Severin Eggers, 1862-1936 1581:(London) (Sept. 26, 1918), p. 1. 1526:The Pleasure Book of Switzerland 1366:(London) 49 (1937), pp. 248-267. 366:The Pleasure Book of Grindelwald 265:The first entries in Kaufmann's 23: 2247:40:3 (Sept. 1912), pp. 241-260. 1969:. London: J. Murray, 1896; and 1243:Edward Whymper's Lecture Slides 915:, in August 1907 to climb with 2491:45: 5 (17 January 1939), p. 2. 2347:(London,) March 2, 1960, p. 12 2172:. Revelstoke, BC: 1986, p.123. 2132:Edmonton: Hurtig, 1979, p. 29. 2005:. National Park Service, 2015. 1972:The Playground of the Far East 1618:Erinnerungen eines BergfĂŒhrers 281:in Schaffhausen, joined them. 1: 2221:. Regina: Coteau Books, 2003. 1622:Adventures of an Alpine guide 1620:. ZĂŒrich: AS Verlag, 2010. / 1122:Staatsarchiv des Kantons Bern 833:determination of the altitude 474:During their stay at the CPR 2357:John William Stansbury Brady 2107:(London) 22 (1905), 333-335. 2023:American Alpine Club Journal 1720:. Bern/New York: Lang, 1987. 1698:. Quoted in Patillo, p. 262. 1529:. New York: Macmillan, 1903. 1228:Churchill, Winston Spencer. 568:(3,087 m / 10,128 ft); 2543:, Vol X, 1902-1904, p 294). 2304:"Freeman Allen." Obituary. 2117:The Valley of the Ten Peaks 2047:Thorington, James Monroe. " 1323:. Leicester: Matador, 2011. 1098:Saskatchewan River Crossing 559:(3,021 m / 9,911 ft). 2609: 1975:. London: J. Murray, 1918. 1624:. London: J. Murray, 1932. 1577:"Killed in Action . . .," 1249:(London) 1997, pp.209-212. 1284:. London: Jarrolds, 1939. 1280:Amery, Leopold Stennett. 917:Alexander Mitchell Kellas 163:(1858-1924), half-brother 149:Emma Christen (1881-1962) 75: 2519:Journal of Sport History 2245:The Geographical Journal 1523:Rhodes, Daniel Pomeroy. 1455:from Saas to Randa; the 1191:Stadtarchiv Schaffhausen 1087:toward gender equality. 1012:Later climbs (1913–1930) 792:, and Christian HĂ€sler. 416:; Joseph Bossonney from 412:; Joseph Pollinger from 390:Canadian Pacific Railway 135:Grindelwald, Switzerland 119:Grindelwald, Switzerland 43:summarize the quotations 2593:People from Grindelwald 2588:Swiss mountain climbers 2206:Canadian Alpine Journal 2053:American Alpine Journal 1859:Canadian Alpine Journal 1390:Julius Marshall Elliott 2556:10 (1902-1904), p 294. 2083:cdnrockiesdatabases.ca 1783:cdnrockiesdatabases.ca 1759:cdnrockiesdatabases.ca 1735:cdnrockiesdatabases.ca 1489:, 13,166 ft], and the 1377:Die Gefahren der Alpen 1047: 1004:(12,655 ft.) and 956: 908: 847: 784:Ottertail group, with 765:Gertrude Lowthian Bell 721: 707: 697: 523: 471: 451: 385: 347:Charles Alfred Elliott 345:In 1898, Kaufmann led 338: 289: 223:Hans (Johann) Kaufmann 219:Golden Age of Alpinism 167:Hans (Johann) Kaufmann 2513:Runggaldier, Ingrid. 1451:from the Nassihorn ; 1146:Kaufmann, Christian, 1045: 954: 906: 870:Gertrude Emily Benham 852:Alpine Club of Canada 845: 719: 703: 695: 521: 469: 449: 383: 332: 287: 2489:Echo von Grindelwald 2003:Acadia National Park 1260:Winston S. Churchill 1217:Winston S. Churchill 1104:Notes and references 1008:(12, 811 ft.). 984:(10, 459 ft.), 741:Acadia National Park 169:(1874-1930), brother 85:Personal information 16:Swiss mountain guide 2530:See Note 38, above. 2478:(January 24, 1939). 1696:I Would Do It Again 1599:Truffer, Bernard. " 1497:.” (Chr. Kaufmann, 988:(10,919 ft.), 476:Mount Stephen Hotel 394:Banff National Park 72: 2181:Nobs, pp. 163-165. 2170:The Guiding Spirit 2141:Nobs, pp. 161-155. 1779:"Mount des Poilus" 1616:Pollinger, Josef. 1048: 957: 909: 877:Charles Ernest Fay 866:, on Mt. Victoria. 848: 825:Herschel C. Parker 790:Herschel C. Parker 763:On June 29, 1903, 726:John Norman Collie 722: 698: 524: 492:Yoho National Park 472: 452: 386: 339: 290: 275:Jules Calame-Colin 179:Christian Kaufmann 71:Christian Kaufmann 2208:1 (1907), p. 175. 1755:"Chancellor Peak" 1392:," SummitPost.org 1187:Schwarz, Gottlieb 1120:" 12, 1866-1875. 929:altitude sickness 437:Colonial rail car 433:Place Viger Hotel 406:Christian Klucker 294:Winston Churchill 279:Kantonalgymnasium 176: 175: 68: 67: 2600: 2557: 2550: 2544: 2537: 2531: 2528: 2522: 2511: 2505: 2498: 2492: 2485: 2479: 2472: 2466: 2463: 2457: 2454: 2448: 2441: 2435: 2428: 2422: 2415: 2409: 2402:Robert P. Koenig 2398: 2392: 2385: 2379: 2372: 2366: 2354: 2348: 2341: 2335: 2330:Chr. Kaufmann, 2328: 2322: 2315: 2309: 2302: 2296: 2289: 2283: 2276: 2270: 2267: 2261: 2254: 2248: 2241: 2235: 2228: 2222: 2215: 2209: 2201: 2195: 2188: 2182: 2179: 2173: 2166: 2160: 2157: 2151: 2148: 2142: 2139: 2133: 2126: 2120: 2114: 2108: 2099: 2093: 2092: 2090: 2089: 2075: 2069: 2062: 2056: 2045: 2039: 2032: 2026: 2015: 2006: 1995: 1989: 1982: 1976: 1963:Weston, Walter. 1961: 1955: 1946: 1940: 1937: 1931: 1924: 1918: 1915: 1909: 1906: 1900: 1893: 1887: 1881: 1875: 1868: 1862: 1861:(February 1903). 1851: 1845: 1838: 1832: 1825: 1819: 1812: 1806: 1799: 1793: 1792: 1790: 1789: 1775: 1769: 1768: 1766: 1765: 1751: 1745: 1744: 1742: 1741: 1727: 1721: 1714: 1708: 1707:Patillo, p. 266. 1705: 1699: 1692: 1686: 1685:Patillo, p. 256. 1683: 1677: 1674: 1668: 1663:Patillo, Roger. 1661: 1655: 1648: 1642: 1635:S/S Australasian 1631: 1625: 1614: 1608: 1601:Joseph Pollinger 1597: 1591: 1588: 1582: 1575: 1569: 1562: 1556: 1549: 1543: 1536: 1530: 1521: 1515: 1508: 1502: 1473:Aig d'ArgentiĂšre 1441:Little Schiedegg 1429: 1423: 1418:Longstaff, Tom. 1416: 1410: 1399: 1393: 1386: 1380: 1373: 1367: 1360: 1354: 1347: 1341: 1330: 1324: 1309: 1303: 1291: 1285: 1278: 1272: 1269: 1263: 1256: 1250: 1239: 1233: 1226: 1220: 1213: 1207: 1200: 1194: 1183: 1177: 1170: 1164: 1159:Chr. Kaufmann, 1157: 1151: 1144: 1138: 1131: 1125: 1124:. Archiveinheit. 1114: 982:Gross WindgĂ€llen 895:in her honour.” 670: 669: 665: 662: 647: 646: 642: 639: 624:Fresnoy Mountain 620:Consolation Peak 613: 612: 608: 605: 581: 580: 576: 573: 362:Thomas Longstaff 307:J. E. C. Welldon 187:Canadian Rockies 136: 131: 128:January 12, 1939 120: 115: 113: 80: 73: 63: 60: 54: 27: 26: 19: 2608: 2607: 2603: 2602: 2601: 2599: 2598: 2597: 2563: 2562: 2561: 2560: 2551: 2547: 2538: 2534: 2529: 2525: 2512: 2508: 2499: 2495: 2486: 2482: 2473: 2469: 2464: 2460: 2456:HĂ€sler, p. 131. 2455: 2451: 2443:Chr. Kaufmann, 2442: 2438: 2430:Chr. Kaufmann, 2429: 2425: 2417:Chr. Kaufmann, 2416: 2412: 2399: 2395: 2387:Chr. Kaufmann, 2386: 2382: 2373: 2369: 2355: 2351: 2342: 2338: 2329: 2325: 2317:Chr. Kaufmann, 2316: 2312: 2303: 2299: 2291:Chr. Kaufmann, 2290: 2286: 2278:Chr. Kaufmann, 2277: 2273: 2268: 2264: 2255: 2251: 2242: 2238: 2229: 2225: 2216: 2212: 2202: 2198: 2190:Chr. Kaufmann. 2189: 2185: 2180: 2176: 2167: 2163: 2159:Birrell, p. 86. 2158: 2154: 2149: 2145: 2140: 2136: 2128:Dowling, Phil. 2127: 2123: 2115: 2111: 2100: 2096: 2087: 2085: 2077: 2076: 2072: 2064:Chr. Kaufmann, 2063: 2059: 2046: 2042: 2034:Chr. Kaufmann, 2033: 2029: 2016: 2009: 1996: 1992: 1984:Chr. Kaufmann, 1983: 1979: 1962: 1958: 1948:Birrell, Dave. 1947: 1943: 1939:Outram, p. 412. 1938: 1934: 1925: 1921: 1916: 1912: 1908:Outram, p. 417. 1907: 1903: 1895:Outram, James. 1894: 1890: 1882: 1878: 1869: 1865: 1852: 1848: 1840:Outram, James. 1839: 1835: 1827:Chr. Kaufmann, 1826: 1822: 1814:Chr. Kaufmann, 1813: 1809: 1800: 1796: 1787: 1785: 1777: 1776: 1772: 1763: 1761: 1753: 1752: 1748: 1739: 1737: 1729: 1728: 1724: 1715: 1711: 1706: 1702: 1694:Campbell, Bob, 1693: 1689: 1684: 1680: 1676:Patillo, p. 246 1675: 1671: 1662: 1658: 1649: 1645: 1639:Norway Heritage 1632: 1628: 1615: 1611: 1598: 1594: 1589: 1585: 1576: 1572: 1564:Chr. Kaufmann, 1563: 1559: 1551:Chr. Kaufmann, 1550: 1546: 1538:Chr. Kaufmann, 1537: 1533: 1522: 1518: 1510:Chr. Kaufmann, 1509: 1505: 1430: 1426: 1417: 1413: 1401:Chr. Kaufmann, 1400: 1396: 1387: 1383: 1374: 1370: 1361: 1357: 1348: 1344: 1340:(London), 1937, 1331: 1327: 1310: 1306: 1292: 1288: 1279: 1275: 1270: 1266: 1257: 1253: 1240: 1236: 1227: 1223: 1214: 1210: 1201: 1197: 1184: 1180: 1172:Chr. Kaufmann, 1171: 1167: 1158: 1154: 1145: 1141: 1132: 1128: 1115: 1111: 1106: 1080: 1040: 1014: 970: 949: 933:Pir Panjal Pass 901: 867: 814:Sept. 3, 1903: 805:Sept. 1, 1903: 796:July 21, 1903: 774:July 16, 1903: 749: 667: 663: 660: 658: 644: 640: 637: 635: 610: 606: 603: 601: 578: 574: 571: 569: 516: 508:Mt. Assiniboine 378: 263: 239:Great Scheidegg 207: 172: 134: 133: 129: 118: 117: 111: 109: 98:Main discipline 93:Kanada Kaufmann 64: 58: 55: 49:or excerpts to 40: 28: 24: 17: 12: 11: 5: 2606: 2604: 2596: 2595: 2590: 2585: 2580: 2575: 2565: 2564: 2559: 2558: 2545: 2532: 2523: 2506: 2493: 2480: 2476:New York Times 2467: 2465:HĂ€sler, p.132. 2458: 2449: 2436: 2423: 2421:, pp. 170-171. 2410: 2408:(24 Feb 1984). 2406:New York Times 2393: 2391:, pp. 162-164. 2380: 2367: 2362:Alpine Journal 2349: 2336: 2323: 2310: 2308:(May 5, 1930). 2306:New York Times 2297: 2295:, pp. 150-151. 2284: 2271: 2262: 2249: 2236: 2223: 2210: 2196: 2183: 2174: 2161: 2152: 2143: 2134: 2121: 2109: 2104:Alpine Journal 2094: 2070: 2057: 2040: 2027: 2007: 1999:George B. Dorr 1990: 1977: 1956: 1941: 1932: 1919: 1917:Outram, p.426. 1910: 1901: 1888: 1876: 1863: 1846: 1833: 1820: 1807: 1801:Rubi, Rudolf. 1794: 1770: 1746: 1722: 1709: 1700: 1687: 1678: 1669: 1656: 1643: 1626: 1609: 1592: 1583: 1570: 1557: 1544: 1531: 1516: 1503: 1445:Finsteraarhorn 1424: 1420:This My Voyage 1411: 1394: 1381: 1368: 1364:Alpine Journal 1355: 1351:Alpine Journal 1342: 1338:Alpine Journal 1325: 1304: 1286: 1273: 1264: 1251: 1247:Alpine Journal 1241:Berg, Peter. " 1234: 1221: 1208: 1195: 1189:(1860-1925)," 1178: 1165: 1152: 1139: 1135:Alpine Journal 1126: 1108: 1107: 1105: 1102: 1093:Kaufmann Peaks 1079: 1076: 1071:New York Times 1039: 1036: 1013: 1010: 969: 966: 948: 945: 900: 897: 822: 821: 812: 803: 786:Charles E. Fay 782: 781: 753:Lake Champlain 748: 745: 588:Mt. Freshfield 515: 512: 398:Edward Whymper 377: 374: 370:Guy's Hospital 298:Gleckstein hut 262: 259: 227:Peter Kaufmann 206: 203: 174: 173: 171: 170: 164: 161:Peter Kaufmann 157: 155: 151: 150: 147: 143: 142: 138: 137: 132:(aged 66) 126: 122: 121: 107: 103: 102: 101:Mountain Guide 99: 95: 94: 91: 87: 86: 82: 81: 66: 65: 31: 29: 22: 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 2605: 2594: 2591: 2589: 2586: 2584: 2583:Alpine guides 2581: 2579: 2576: 2574: 2571: 2570: 2568: 2555: 2549: 2546: 2542: 2536: 2533: 2527: 2524: 2520: 2516: 2510: 2507: 2503: 2500:Scott, Chic. 2497: 2494: 2490: 2484: 2481: 2477: 2471: 2468: 2462: 2459: 2453: 2450: 2446: 2440: 2437: 2433: 2427: 2424: 2420: 2414: 2411: 2407: 2403: 2397: 2394: 2390: 2384: 2381: 2377: 2371: 2368: 2364: 2363: 2358: 2353: 2350: 2346: 2340: 2337: 2333: 2327: 2324: 2320: 2314: 2311: 2307: 2301: 2298: 2294: 2288: 2285: 2281: 2275: 2272: 2266: 2263: 2259: 2253: 2250: 2246: 2240: 2237: 2233: 2227: 2224: 2220: 2214: 2211: 2207: 2200: 2197: 2193: 2187: 2184: 2178: 2175: 2171: 2165: 2162: 2156: 2153: 2150:Nobs, p. 163. 2147: 2144: 2138: 2135: 2131: 2125: 2122: 2118: 2113: 2110: 2106: 2105: 2098: 2095: 2084: 2080: 2074: 2071: 2067: 2061: 2058: 2054: 2050: 2044: 2041: 2037: 2031: 2028: 2024: 2020: 2014: 2012: 2008: 2004: 2000: 1994: 1991: 1987: 1981: 1978: 1974: 1973: 1968: 1967: 1960: 1957: 1953: 1952: 1945: 1942: 1936: 1933: 1929: 1923: 1920: 1914: 1911: 1905: 1902: 1898: 1892: 1889: 1885: 1880: 1877: 1873: 1867: 1864: 1860: 1856: 1850: 1847: 1843: 1837: 1834: 1830: 1824: 1821: 1817: 1811: 1808: 1804: 1798: 1795: 1784: 1780: 1774: 1771: 1760: 1756: 1750: 1747: 1736: 1732: 1726: 1723: 1719: 1713: 1710: 1704: 1701: 1697: 1691: 1688: 1682: 1679: 1673: 1670: 1666: 1660: 1657: 1653: 1647: 1644: 1640: 1636: 1630: 1627: 1623: 1619: 1613: 1610: 1606: 1602: 1596: 1593: 1587: 1584: 1580: 1574: 1571: 1567: 1561: 1558: 1554: 1548: 1545: 1541: 1535: 1532: 1528: 1527: 1520: 1517: 1513: 1507: 1504: 1500: 1496: 1492: 1488: 1486: 1482: 1478: 1474: 1470: 1466: 1462: 1458: 1454: 1450: 1446: 1442: 1438: 1434: 1428: 1425: 1421: 1415: 1412: 1408: 1404: 1398: 1395: 1391: 1385: 1382: 1378: 1372: 1369: 1365: 1359: 1356: 1352: 1346: 1343: 1339: 1335: 1329: 1326: 1322: 1318: 1314: 1308: 1305: 1301: 1297: 1290: 1287: 1283: 1277: 1274: 1268: 1265: 1261: 1255: 1252: 1248: 1244: 1238: 1235: 1231: 1225: 1222: 1218: 1212: 1209: 1205: 1199: 1196: 1192: 1188: 1182: 1179: 1175: 1169: 1166: 1162: 1156: 1153: 1149: 1143: 1140: 1136: 1130: 1127: 1123: 1119: 1113: 1110: 1103: 1101: 1099: 1094: 1088: 1084: 1077: 1075: 1072: 1067: 1065: 1061: 1060:auf dem Hubel 1056: 1053: 1044: 1037: 1035: 1033: 1028: 1027:Konkordia Hut 1023: 1019: 1011: 1009: 1007: 1003: 999: 995: 991: 990:Claridenstock 987: 983: 979: 978:Nautgardstind 975: 967: 965: 961: 953: 946: 944: 940: 938: 934: 930: 926: 925:Kangchenjunga 922: 918: 914: 913:Sikkim, India 905: 898: 896: 894: 890: 884: 880: 878: 873: 871: 865: 861: 857: 853: 844: 840: 838: 834: 830: 826: 819: 818: 813: 810: 809: 808:Mt. Deltaform 804: 801: 800: 795: 794: 793: 791: 787: 779: 778: 773: 772: 771: 768: 766: 761: 759: 758:Lake Manitoba 754: 746: 744: 742: 738: 737:Walter Weston 733: 731: 727: 718: 714: 710: 706: 702: 694: 690: 688: 687: 681: 679: 678: 677:Mt. Alexandra 672: 656: 655: 649: 633: 630:s, cliffs to 629: 625: 621: 616: 599: 598: 592: 590: 589: 583: 582:hrs. ascent. 567: 566: 560: 558: 553: 551: 550: 544: 542: 541: 535: 532: 530: 520: 513: 511: 509: 505: 504:The President 501: 497: 493: 489: 485: 481: 477: 468: 464: 462: 456: 448: 444: 440: 438: 434: 429: 427: 421: 419: 415: 411: 407: 403: 399: 395: 391: 382: 375: 373: 371: 367: 363: 359: 354: 352: 348: 343: 336: 331: 327: 324: 320: 314: 312: 308: 304: 303:Harrow School 299: 295: 286: 282: 280: 276: 272: 268: 260: 258: 256: 252: 248: 244: 240: 236: 230: 228: 224: 220: 216: 212: 204: 202: 200: 196: 192: 188: 184: 180: 168: 165: 162: 159: 158: 156: 152: 148: 144: 139: 127: 123: 116:March 7, 1872 108: 104: 100: 96: 92: 88: 83: 79: 74: 62: 59:February 2022 52: 48: 44: 38: 37: 32:This article 30: 21: 20: 2553: 2548: 2540: 2535: 2526: 2518: 2514: 2509: 2501: 2496: 2488: 2483: 2475: 2470: 2461: 2452: 2444: 2439: 2431: 2426: 2418: 2413: 2405: 2396: 2388: 2383: 2375: 2370: 2360: 2352: 2344: 2339: 2331: 2326: 2318: 2313: 2305: 2300: 2292: 2287: 2279: 2274: 2265: 2257: 2252: 2244: 2239: 2232:Star-Phoenix 2231: 2226: 2218: 2213: 2205: 2199: 2191: 2186: 2177: 2169: 2164: 2155: 2146: 2137: 2129: 2124: 2112: 2102: 2097: 2086:. Retrieved 2082: 2079:"Mount Ball" 2073: 2065: 2060: 2052: 2043: 2035: 2030: 2022: 2002: 1993: 1985: 1980: 1970: 1964: 1959: 1949: 1944: 1935: 1927: 1926:Hart, E. J. 1922: 1913: 1904: 1896: 1891: 1883: 1879: 1871: 1866: 1858: 1854: 1849: 1841: 1836: 1828: 1823: 1815: 1810: 1802: 1797: 1786:. Retrieved 1782: 1773: 1762:. Retrieved 1758: 1749: 1738:. Retrieved 1734: 1731:"Mount Vaux" 1725: 1717: 1716:Nobs, Beat. 1712: 1703: 1695: 1690: 1681: 1672: 1664: 1659: 1646: 1638: 1629: 1621: 1617: 1612: 1604: 1595: 1586: 1578: 1573: 1565: 1560: 1555:, pp. 89-90. 1552: 1547: 1539: 1534: 1524: 1519: 1511: 1506: 1498: 1461:Signal Kuppe 1432: 1427: 1419: 1414: 1406: 1402: 1397: 1384: 1376: 1371: 1363: 1358: 1350: 1345: 1337: 1328: 1320: 1316: 1312: 1307: 1299: 1295: 1289: 1281: 1276: 1267: 1259: 1254: 1246: 1237: 1229: 1224: 1216: 1211: 1203: 1198: 1190: 1181: 1173: 1168: 1163:, pp. 38-39. 1160: 1155: 1147: 1142: 1134: 1129: 1121: 1112: 1089: 1085: 1081: 1070: 1068: 1063: 1059: 1057: 1051: 1049: 1031: 1022:Jungfraujoch 1017: 1015: 994:Gross Ruchen 986:Oberalpstock 973: 971: 962: 958: 941: 910: 888: 887:Peak Seven ( 885: 881: 874: 860:Hudson Stuck 849: 828: 823: 815: 806: 799:Mt. Hungabee 797: 783: 775: 769: 762: 757: 752: 750: 734: 730:Mount Forbes 723: 711: 708: 704: 699: 684: 682: 675: 673: 652: 650: 631: 627: 619: 617: 595: 593: 586: 584: 563: 561: 557:Mt. Kaufmann 556: 554: 547: 545: 540:Mt. Columbia 538: 536: 533: 528: 525: 484:Mt. Victoria 480:James Outram 473: 457: 453: 441: 430: 426:Australasian 425: 422: 387: 365: 357: 355: 350: 344: 340: 334: 318: 317:appeared in 315: 291: 278: 266: 264: 254: 231: 214: 211:Graben-Peter 210: 208: 178: 177: 130:(1939-01-12) 56: 41:Please help 33: 2578:1939 deaths 2573:1872 births 2400:"Obituary: 1495:Moine ridge 1449:Schreckhorn 1064:SpĂ€tenmatte 998:Ortler Alps 777:Mt. Goodsir 632:Turret Peak 549:Mount Lyell 488:Mt. Stephen 461:Mt. Stephen 414:St. Niklaus 215:Grabi-Peter 2567:Categories 2554:Appalachia 2541:Appalachia 2445:FĂŒhrerbuch 2432:FĂŒhrerbuch 2419:FĂŒhrerbuch 2389:FĂŒhrerbuch 2332:FĂŒhrerbuch 2319:FĂŒhrerbuch 2293:FĂŒhrerbuch 2282:, pp. 145. 2280:FĂŒhrerbuch 2192:FĂŒhrerbuch 2088:2023-08-06 2066:FĂŒhrerbuch 2036:FĂŒhrerbuch 1986:FĂŒhrerbuch 1855:FĂŒhrerbuch 1829:FĂŒhrerbuch 1816:FĂŒhrerbuch 1788:2023-08-06 1764:2023-08-06 1740:2023-08-06 1654:item 3921. 1566:FĂŒhrerbuch 1553:FĂŒhrerbuch 1540:FĂŒhrerbuch 1512:FĂŒhrerbuch 1499:FĂŒhrerbuch 1485:Mont Blanc 1477:Montanvert 1469:Matterhorn 1457:Monte Rosa 1433:FĂŒhrerbuch 1403:FĂŒhrerbuch 1300:FĂŒhrerbuch 1296:FĂŒhrerbuch 1204:FĂŒhrerbuch 1174:FĂŒhrerbuch 1161:FĂŒhrerbuch 1052:FĂŒhrerbuch 1032:FĂŒhrerbuch 1018:FĂŒhrerbuch 1002:Königspitz 974:FĂŒhrerbuch 937:Darjeeling 893:Mount Tuzo 856:Mount Ball 837:Hypsometer 829:FĂŒhrerbuch 817:Mt. Biddle 686:Mt. Wilson 618:Aug. 19: " 597:Mt. Forbes 529:FĂŒhrerbuch 500:Mt. Collie 402:Matterhorn 358:FĂŒhrerbuch 335:FĂŒhrerbuch 311:Monte Rosa 271:Wetterhorn 267:FĂŒhrerbuch 255:FĂŒhrerbuch 251:Interlaken 247:MĂ€nnlichen 112:1872-03-07 51:Wikisource 2447:, p. 180. 2434:, p. 175. 2376:Die Alpen 2345:The Times 2334:, p. 153. 2321:, p. 142. 2068:, p. 110. 2038:, p. 106. 1988:, p. 101. 1831:, p. 117. 1818:, p. 116. 1579:The Times 1501:, p. 79). 1491:Aig Verte 1459:from the 1439:from the 1313:The Times 835:with the 683:Aug. 26: 674:Aug. 23: 654:Mt. Bryce 651:Aug. 21: 594:Aug. 10: 585:Aug. 04: 565:Mons Peak 562:July 31: 555:July 30: 546:July 24: 537:July 19: 496:Mt. Habel 319:The Times 241:, to the 195:Himalayas 154:Relatives 47:Wikiquote 34:contains 2194:, p.134. 1886:, p. 397 1568:, p. 96. 1542:, p. 86. 1514:, p. 87. 1487:du GĂ©ant 1176:, p. 38. 921:Srinagar 418:Chamonix 323:Alpiglen 243:Faulhorn 191:Selkirks 90:Nickname 2055:(1937). 2025:(1934). 1465:Nordend 1463:to the 1453:the Dom 889:Shagowa 666:⁄ 643:⁄ 609:⁄ 577:⁄ 296:to the 1481:GrĂ©pon 1479:; the 1467:; the 1443:; the 1078:Legacy 1006:Ortler 864:Denali 235:Little 199:Norway 197:, and 193:, the 189:, the 185:, the 146:Spouse 141:Family 1437:Mönch 1317:Times 671:hrs. 648:hrs. 628:arĂȘte 408:from 351:arĂȘte 2552:See 1637:," 486:and 410:Sils 237:and 183:Alps 125:Died 106:Born 2051:," 2021:," 2001:," 1603:," 1336:," 1245:," 1000:, 622:" ( 245:or 213:or 2569:: 2404:, 2081:. 2010:^ 1781:. 1757:. 1733:. 1483:; 1100:. 788:, 760:. 743:. 659:20 636:18 2091:. 2017:" 1997:" 1791:. 1767:. 1743:. 1641:. 1633:" 1607:. 1388:" 1332:' 1302:. 1185:" 1116:" 668:2 664:1 661:+ 645:4 641:3 638:+ 611:2 607:1 604:+ 602:8 579:2 575:1 572:+ 570:6 114:) 110:( 61:) 57:( 53:. 39:.

Index

too many or overly lengthy quotations
summarize the quotations
Wikiquote
Wikisource

Peter Kaufmann
Hans (Johann) Kaufmann
Alps
Canadian Rockies
Selkirks
Himalayas
Norway
Golden Age of Alpinism
Hans (Johann) Kaufmann
Peter Kaufmann
Little
Great Scheidegg
Faulhorn
MĂ€nnlichen
Interlaken
Wetterhorn
Jules Calame-Colin

Winston Churchill
Gleckstein hut
Harrow School
J. E. C. Welldon
Monte Rosa
Alpiglen

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