124:, but the profile instead of appearing to run to the right or left, will grow from a horizontal surface, attain a maximum development, and then flatten out till the surface is again horizontal; immediately another wave profile will form with its crests where the hollows formerly were, will grow and flatten out, etc. If attention is concentrated on a certain crest, it will be seen to grow to its greatest height, die away, and be succeeded in the same place by a hollow, and the interval of time between the successive formations of crests at a given place will be the same as the time of one of the component waves.
1425:
2313:
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1414:
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134:
than 100% reflected, and only a partial standing wave is formed where the water particle motions are elliptical. This may also occur at sea between two different wave trains of near equal wavelength moving in opposite directions, but with unequal amplitudes. In partial clapotis the wave envelope contains some vertical motion at the nodes.
624:
It was, we believe, Boussinesq in 1877 who was the first to deal with nonlinear standing waves. On pages 332-335 and 348-353 ofhe refers to 'le clapotis', meaning standing waves, and his treatment, which includes the cases of finite and infinite depth, is a nonlinear theory taken to second order in
133:
True clapotis is very rare, because the depth of the water or the precipitousness of the shore are unlikely to completely satisfy the idealized requirements. In the more realistic case of partial clapotis, where some of the incoming wave energy is dissipated at the shore, the incident wave is less
656:
CLAPOTIS The French equivalent for a type of STANDING WAVE. In
American usage it is usually associated with the standing wave phenomenon caused by the reflection of a nonbreaking wave train from a structure with a face that is vertical or nearly vertical. Full clapotis is one with 100 percent
952:
In this process, the interference of differently directed waves occurs, which forms standing water waves, or the so-called clapotis.…To examine and locate these waves, it is proposed to use their inherent properties to exert ("pump") a varying pressure on the ocean bottom, which generates
671:"Wellen und Seegang an KĂĽsten und KĂĽstenbauwerken mit Seegangsatlas der Deutschen NordseekĂĽste : 2. Seegangstransformation (Waves and Sea State on Coasts and Coastal Structures with Sea State Atlas of the German North Sea Coast : 2. Sea State Transformation)"
914:
Should one of the opposing progressive waves be smaller in height than the other, as in partial reflection from a wall, the resulting nodes and antinodes will be located in the same position but the water-particle orbits will not be rectilinear in
774:
This phenomenon is also called "Clapotis" and the circular orbits of the particle movements have degenerated into straight lines. This results in only vertical velocities at the antinodes and horizontal velocities at the
153:("waffled clapotis"). In this situation, the individual crests formed at the intersection of the incident and reflected wave train crests move parallel to the structure. This wave motion, when combined with the resultant
883:
A partially standing wave due to the (partial) reflection of an incident wave against an obstacle. The ellipses are the trajectories of the water particles as they undergo their motion in one wave period.
100:
are converted to purely linear motion, with vertical velocities at the antinodes, and horizontal velocities at the nodes. The standing waves alternately rise and fall in a mirror image pattern, as
557:
In this short Note we present the original
Boussinesq's contribution to the nonlinear theory of the two dimensional standing gravity water wave problem, which he defined as 'le clapotis'.
928:
506:
Clapotis Gaufre When the incident wave is at an angle α to the normal from a vertical boundary, then the reflected wave will be in a direction α on the opposite side of the normal.
2053:
2043:
1102:
737:
Waves impacting against the vertical wall of a caisson or against the side of a barge are fully reflected, forming a standing wave or clapotis, almost twice the
688:
Ein typischer extremer Fall von
Reflektion tritt an einer starren senkrechten Wand auf. (A typical case of extreme reflection occurs on a rigid vertical wall.)
640:
96:
is twice the height of the incoming waves at a distance of one half wavelength from the wall. In this case, the circular orbits of the water particles in the
855:
The waves in front of actual seawalls and harbor breakwaters, however, are rather partial standing waves such that some incident wave energy is dissipated…
473:... the reflected wave energy interacted with the incoming waves to produce standing waves known as clapotis, which promote erosion at the toe of the wall.
383:
1959:
754:
1374:
1142:
342:
This simplification assumes that a standing wave pattern, called clapotis, forms in front of a wall where incident and reflected waves combine.
907:
876:
799:
730:
499:
466:
404:
363:
335:
940:
1606:
1496:
845:
Hirayama, K. (2001). "Numerical
Simulation of Nonlinear Partial Standing Waves using the Boussinesq Model with New Reflection Boundary".
20:
1095:
651:
425:
clapotis…denotes a complete standing wave — a wave which does not travel horizontally but instead has distinct nodes and antinodes.
2201:
1628:
1516:
299:
Eid, Bassem M.; Zemell, Sheldon H. (1984). "Erratum: Dynamic analysis of a suspended pump in a vertical well connected to the ocean".
67:. These waves promote erosion at the toe of the wall, and can cause severe damage to shore structures. The term was coined in 1877 by
2048:
1319:
1466:
23:
Incoming wave (red) reflected at the wall produces the outgoing wave (blue), both being overlaid resulting in the clapotis (black).
570:
1506:
2326:
2236:
1222:
326:
prepared by the Task
Committee on Hydrology Handbook of Management Group D of the American Society of Civil Engineers. (1996).
224:
146:
1909:
244:
2316:
1088:
762:
1364:
806:
The standing wave will alternately rise and collapse as kinetic energy is converted into potential energy and back again.
2366:
1424:
677:
277:
Eid, B. M.; Zemell, S. H. (1983). "Dynamic analysis of a suspended pump in a vertical well connected to the ocean".
1561:
295:
The standing wave system resulting from the reflection of a progressive wave train from a vertical wall (clapotis)…
78:
1461:
965:
833:
This action is most clearly seen where a wave is reflected from a vertical sea-wall, and is known as the clapotis.
2096:
1501:
157:, can erode material from the seabed and transport it along the wall, undermining the structure until it fails.
2226:
1601:
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48:
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1111:
694:
252:
370:…if the wave travels in exactly the opposite direction then a standing, or clapotic, wave can develop.
2371:
2278:
2111:
1814:
1671:
1536:
1247:
585:
534:
392:
356:
Coastal environments: an introduction to the physical, ecological, and cultural systems of coastlines
2273:
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828:
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reflection of the incident wave; partial clapotis is one with less than 100 percent reflection.
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359:
331:
137:
When a wave train strikes a wall at an oblique angle, the reflected wave train departs at the
2253:
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2000:
1985:
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707:
443:
121:
36:
759:
Breaker Model for
Coastal Structures : Probability of Wave Impacts on Vertical Walls
1413:
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89:
64:
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605:
113:
71:
40:
28:
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2010:
2005:
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1964:
1939:
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2015:
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142:
93:
1050:
Clapotis and Wave
Reflection: With an Application to Vertical Breakwater Design
546:
19:
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1949:
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191:
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927:
Tabulevich, V. N.; Ponomarev, E. A.; Sorokin, A. G.; Drennova, N. N. (2001).
2173:
2035:
2020:
1934:
1779:
1618:
1613:
1396:
1324:
1252:
1172:
1162:
1119:
85:
75:
1039:
1022:
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1990:
1849:
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1731:
1676:
1080:
2137:
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1297:
1267:
1073:
969:
953:
microseismic vibrations, and to radiate infrasound into the atmosphere.
216:
52:
43:
pattern, caused for example, by the reflection of a traveling surface
1844:
1257:
196:
154:
68:
312:
290:
1052:. Civil Engineering Dept., Queen's University at Kingston, Ontario.
2206:
2025:
1804:
1759:
1008:
Boussinesq, J. (1877). "Essai sur la théorie des eaux courantes".
571:"Standing Waves on an Infinitely Deep Perfect Fluid Under Gravity"
120:
At any instant the profile of the water surface is like that of a
56:
18:
995:
Boussinesq, J. (1872). "Théorie des ondes liquides périodiques".
1638:
44:
1084:
1010:
Mémoires Présentés Par Divers
Savants à l'Académie des Sciences
997:
Mémoires Présentés Par Divers
Savants à l'Académie des Sciences
648:
490:
Fleming, Christopher; Reeve, Dominic; Chadwick, Andrew (2004).
63:
wave does not travel horizontally, but has a fixed pattern of
723:
Construction of Marine and Offshore Structures, Third Edition
765:, Hydraulic and Offshore Engineering division. pp. 4–33
81:
who called these waves 'le clapotis' meaning "the lapping".
871:. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press. p. 224.
794:. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press. p. 174.
492:
Coastal engineering: processes, theory and design practice
84:
In the idealized case of "full clapotis" where a purely
178:
Clapotis has been called the bane and the pleasure of
741:, at a distance from the wall of one-half wavelength.
385:
Dictionary of geophysics, astrophysics, and astronomy
893:
891:
785:
783:
520:"J. Boussinesq and the standing water waves problem"
175:
coupled through the ocean floor to the solid Earth.
2146:
2120:
2082:
2034:
1973:
1868:
1740:
1637:
1432:
1118:
569:Iooss, G.; Plotnikov, P. I.; Toland, J. F. (2005).
485:
483:
481:
2054:North West Shelf Operational Oceanographic System
929:"Standing Sea Waves, Microseisms, and Infrasound"
847:Report Ff the Port and Airport Research Institute
2044:Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis
160:Clapotic waves on the sea surface also radiate
118:
725:. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press. p. 31.
1096:
669:Mai, S.; Paesler, C.; Zimmermann, C. (2004).
8:
1072:from the original on 2021-12-12 – via
47:train from a near vertical shoreline like a
578:Archive for Rational Mechanics and Analysis
1103:
1089:
1081:
39:for "lapping of water") is a non-breaking
1038:
827:. New York: J. Wiley & Sons. p.
755:"4.2 Pressures due to Non-Breaking Waves"
902:. World Scientific Publishing Company.
635:
633:
208:
92:to a solid vertical wall, the standing
1375:one-dimensional Saint-Venant equations
1048:Leméhauté, B.; Collins, J. I. (1961).
703:
692:
439:
429:
358:. Boston: Academic Press. p. 50.
88:incoming wave is completely reflected
461:. Boca Raton: CRC Press. p. 44.
301:Canadian Journal of Civil Engineering
279:Canadian Journal of Civil Engineering
7:
2322:
792:Coasts: form, process, and evolution
108:, and vice versa. In his 1907 text,
933:Izv. Akad. Nauk, Fiz. Atmos. Okeana
869:Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
652:Federal Emergency Management Agency
2202:National Oceanographic Data Center
1629:World Ocean Circulation Experiment
1517:Global Ocean Data Analysis Project
494:. London: Spon Press. p. 47.
16:Non-breaking standing wave pattern
14:
2049:Global Sea Level Observing System
2332:
2321:
2312:
2311:
1507:Geochemical Ocean Sections Study
1423:
1412:
2237:Ocean thermal energy conversion
1960:Vine–Matthews–Morley hypothesis
225:American Meteorological Society
1064:Willi Water (March 11, 2010).
1:
763:Technische Universiteit Delft
1497:El Niño–Southern Oscillation
1467:Craik–Leibovich vortex force
1223:Luke's variational principle
721:Jr, Ben H. Nunnally (2007).
382:Matzner, Richard A. (2001).
249:Glossary of Scientific Terms
898:Silvester, Richard (1997).
867:Leo H. Holthuijsen (2007).
116:described this phenomenon:
2388:
1562:Ocean dynamical thermostat
1410:
547:10.1016/j.crme.2006.11.007
459:Environmental oceanography
79:Joseph Valentin Boussinesq
2307:
2097:Ocean acoustic tomography
1910:Mohorovičić discontinuity
1502:General circulation model
1138:Benjamin–Feir instability
939:: 235–244. Archived from
790:Woodroffe, C. D. (2003).
753:van Os, Magchiel (2002).
598:10.1007/s00205-005-0381-6
167:into the atmosphere, and
2227:Ocean surface topography
1602:Thermohaline circulation
1592:Subsurface ocean current
1532:Hydrothermal circulation
1365:Wave–current interaction
1143:Boussinesq approximation
527:Comptes Rendus MĂ©canique
2264:Sea surface temperature
2247:Outline of oceanography
1442:Atmospheric circulation
1380:shallow water equations
1370:Waves and shallow water
1263:Significant wave height
739:significant wave height
221:Glossary of Meteorology
2259:Sea surface microlayer
1624:Wind generated current
1066:"Clapotis Wave Action"
968:. 2010. Archived from
702:Cite journal requires
126:
24:
2092:Deep scattering layer
2074:World Geodetic System
1582:Princeton Ocean Model
1462:Coriolis–Stokes force
1112:Physical oceanography
900:Coastal Stabilization
819:Peabody, Cecil Hobart
354:Carter, Bill (1989).
253:University of Alberta
149:pattern known as the
22:
2112:Underwater acoustics
1672:Perigean spring tide
1537:Langmuir circulation
1248:Rossby-gravity waves
678:Universität Hannover
2367:Coastal engineering
2274:Science On a Sphere
1880:Convergent boundary
1552:Modular Ocean Model
1512:Geostrophic current
1228:Mild-slope equation
1040:10.1051/lhb/1960032
1023:"Étude du clapotis"
590:2005ArRMA.177..367I
539:2007CRMec.335..584I
397:2001dgaa.book.....M
139:supplementary angle
65:nodes and antinodes
1930:Seafloor spreading
1920:Outer trench swell
1885:Divergent boundary
1785:Continental margin
1770:Carbonate platform
1667:Lunitidal interval
1027:La Houille Blanche
1021:Hires, G. (1960).
824:Naval architecture
518:Iooss, G. (2007).
457:Beer, Tom (1997).
330:. New York: ASCE.
328:Hydrology handbook
110:Naval Architecture
25:
2347:
2346:
2339:Oceans portal
2299:World Ocean Atlas
2289:Underwater glider
2232:Ocean temperature
1895:Hydrothermal vent
1860:Submarine volcano
1795:Continental shelf
1775:Coastal geography
1765:Bathymetric chart
1647:Amphidromic point
1335:Wave nonlinearity
1193:Infragravity wave
909:978-981-02-3154-5
878:978-0-521-86028-4
801:978-0-521-01183-9
732:978-0-8493-3052-0
654:. November 2004.
641:"D.4.14 Glossary"
533:(9–10): 584–589.
501:978-0-415-26841-7
468:978-0-8493-8425-7
406:978-0-8493-2891-6
365:978-0-12-161856-8
337:978-0-7844-0138-5
129:Related phenomena
2379:
2337:
2336:
2325:
2324:
2315:
2314:
2254:Pelagic sediment
2192:Marine pollution
1986:Deep ocean water
1855:Submarine canyon
1790:Continental rise
1682:Rule of twelfths
1597:Sverdrup balance
1527:Humboldt Current
1452:Boundary current
1427:
1416:
1233:Radiation stress
1203:Iribarren number
1178:Equatorial waves
1133:Ballantine scale
1128:Airy wave theory
1105:
1098:
1091:
1082:
1077:
1053:
1044:
1042:
1017:
1004:
982:
981:
979:
977:
972:on April 3, 2017
962:
956:
955:
949:
948:
924:
918:
917:
895:
886:
885:
864:
858:
857:
842:
836:
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815:
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771:
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750:
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743:
718:
712:
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705:
700:
698:
690:
685:
684:
675:
666:
660:
659:
645:
637:
628:
627:
621:
620:
614:
608:. Archived from
575:
566:
560:
559:
554:
553:
524:
515:
509:
508:
487:
476:
475:
454:
448:
447:
441:
437:
435:
427:
422:
421:
415:
409:. Archived from
390:
379:
373:
372:
351:
345:
344:
323:
317:
316:
297:
274:
268:
267:
265:
264:
255:. Archived from
241:
235:
234:
232:
231:
213:
106:potential energy
104:is converted to
59:. The resulting
2387:
2386:
2382:
2381:
2380:
2378:
2377:
2376:
2352:
2351:
2348:
2343:
2331:
2303:
2142:
2116:
2078:
2059:Sea-level curve
2030:
1969:
1955:Transform fault
1905:Mid-ocean ridge
1871:
1864:
1830:Oceanic plateau
1736:
1722:Tidal resonance
1692:Theory of tides
1633:
1542:Longshore drift
1492:Ekman transport
1428:
1422:
1421:
1420:
1419:
1418:
1417:
1408:
1360:Wave turbulence
1293:Trochoidal wave
1218:Longshore drift
1114:
1109:
1063:
1060:
1047:
1020:
1007:
994:
991:
989:Further reading
986:
985:
975:
973:
964:
963:
959:
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766:
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751:
747:
733:
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682:
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673:
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366:
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313:10.1139/l84-025
298:
291:10.1139/l83-075
276:
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271:
262:
260:
243:
242:
238:
229:
227:
215:
214:
210:
205:
188:
171:signals called
151:clapotis gaufré
131:
122:trochoidal wave
98:deep-water wave
17:
12:
11:
5:
2385:
2383:
2375:
2374:
2369:
2364:
2362:Wave mechanics
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2279:Stratification
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2169:Color of water
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2164:Benthic lander
2161:
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2109:
2104:
2099:
2094:
2088:
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2080:
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2076:
2071:
2069:Sea level rise
2066:
2064:Sea level drop
2061:
2056:
2051:
2046:
2040:
2038:
2032:
2031:
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2023:
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2003:
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1988:
1983:
1977:
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1967:
1962:
1957:
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1932:
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1900:Marine geology
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1882:
1876:
1874:
1866:
1865:
1863:
1862:
1857:
1852:
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1842:
1840:Passive margin
1837:
1835:Oceanic trench
1832:
1827:
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1817:
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1574:
1569:
1567:Ocean dynamics
1564:
1559:
1554:
1549:
1544:
1539:
1534:
1529:
1524:
1519:
1514:
1509:
1504:
1499:
1494:
1489:
1484:
1479:
1474:
1469:
1464:
1459:
1457:Coriolis force
1454:
1449:
1444:
1438:
1436:
1430:
1429:
1411:
1409:
1407:
1406:
1405:
1404:
1394:
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1377:
1367:
1362:
1357:
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1337:
1332:
1327:
1322:
1317:
1312:
1307:
1306:
1305:
1295:
1290:
1285:
1280:
1278:Stokes problem
1275:
1270:
1265:
1260:
1255:
1250:
1245:
1240:
1235:
1230:
1225:
1220:
1215:
1213:Kinematic wave
1210:
1205:
1200:
1195:
1190:
1185:
1180:
1175:
1170:
1165:
1160:
1155:
1150:
1145:
1140:
1135:
1130:
1124:
1122:
1116:
1115:
1110:
1108:
1107:
1100:
1093:
1085:
1079:
1078:
1059:
1058:External links
1056:
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1005:
990:
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859:
837:
810:
800:
779:
745:
731:
713:
704:|journal=
661:
629:
625:the amplitude.
584:(3): 367–478.
561:
510:
500:
477:
467:
449:
440:|journal=
405:
391:. p. 81.
374:
364:
346:
336:
318:
285:(3): 481–491.
269:
236:
207:
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187:
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130:
127:
102:kinetic energy
15:
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10:
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3:
2:
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2188:
2187:Marine energy
2185:
2183:
2180:
2178:
2177:
2172:
2170:
2167:
2165:
2162:
2160:
2157:
2155:
2154:Acidification
2152:
2151:
2149:
2145:
2139:
2136:
2134:
2131:
2129:
2126:
2125:
2123:
2119:
2113:
2110:
2108:
2107:SOFAR channel
2105:
2103:
2100:
2098:
2095:
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2090:
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2019:
2017:
2014:
2012:
2009:
2007:
2004:
2002:
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1997:
1994:
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1989:
1987:
1984:
1982:
1979:
1978:
1976:
1972:
1966:
1963:
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1958:
1956:
1953:
1951:
1948:
1946:
1943:
1941:
1938:
1936:
1933:
1931:
1928:
1926:
1923:
1921:
1918:
1916:
1915:Oceanic crust
1913:
1911:
1908:
1906:
1903:
1901:
1898:
1896:
1893:
1891:
1890:Fracture zone
1888:
1886:
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1867:
1861:
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1833:
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1828:
1826:
1825:Oceanic basin
1823:
1821:
1818:
1816:
1813:
1811:
1808:
1806:
1803:
1801:
1798:
1796:
1793:
1791:
1788:
1786:
1783:
1781:
1778:
1776:
1773:
1771:
1768:
1766:
1763:
1761:
1758:
1756:
1755:Abyssal plain
1753:
1751:
1748:
1747:
1745:
1743:
1739:
1733:
1730:
1728:
1725:
1723:
1720:
1718:
1715:
1713:
1710:
1708:
1705:
1703:
1700:
1698:
1695:
1693:
1690:
1688:
1685:
1683:
1680:
1678:
1675:
1673:
1670:
1668:
1665:
1663:
1662:Internal tide
1660:
1658:
1655:
1653:
1650:
1648:
1645:
1644:
1642:
1640:
1636:
1630:
1627:
1625:
1622:
1620:
1617:
1615:
1612:
1608:
1605:
1604:
1603:
1600:
1598:
1595:
1593:
1590:
1588:
1585:
1583:
1580:
1578:
1575:
1573:
1570:
1568:
1565:
1563:
1560:
1558:
1557:Ocean current
1555:
1553:
1550:
1548:
1545:
1543:
1540:
1538:
1535:
1533:
1530:
1528:
1525:
1523:
1520:
1518:
1515:
1513:
1510:
1508:
1505:
1503:
1500:
1498:
1495:
1493:
1490:
1488:
1485:
1483:
1480:
1478:
1475:
1473:
1470:
1468:
1465:
1463:
1460:
1458:
1455:
1453:
1450:
1448:
1445:
1443:
1440:
1439:
1437:
1435:
1431:
1426:
1415:
1403:
1400:
1399:
1398:
1395:
1393:
1390:
1388:
1385:
1381:
1378:
1376:
1373:
1372:
1371:
1368:
1366:
1363:
1361:
1358:
1356:
1355:Wave shoaling
1353:
1351:
1348:
1346:
1343:
1341:
1338:
1336:
1333:
1331:
1328:
1326:
1323:
1321:
1318:
1316:
1315:Ursell number
1313:
1311:
1308:
1304:
1301:
1300:
1299:
1296:
1294:
1291:
1289:
1286:
1284:
1281:
1279:
1276:
1274:
1271:
1269:
1266:
1264:
1261:
1259:
1256:
1254:
1251:
1249:
1246:
1244:
1241:
1239:
1236:
1234:
1231:
1229:
1226:
1224:
1221:
1219:
1216:
1214:
1211:
1209:
1206:
1204:
1201:
1199:
1198:Internal wave
1196:
1194:
1191:
1189:
1186:
1184:
1181:
1179:
1176:
1174:
1171:
1169:
1166:
1164:
1161:
1159:
1156:
1154:
1151:
1149:
1148:Breaking wave
1146:
1144:
1141:
1139:
1136:
1134:
1131:
1129:
1126:
1125:
1123:
1121:
1117:
1113:
1106:
1101:
1099:
1094:
1092:
1087:
1086:
1083:
1075:
1071:
1067:
1062:
1061:
1057:
1051:
1046:
1041:
1036:
1033:(2): 153–63.
1032:
1028:
1024:
1019:
1015:
1011:
1006:
1002:
998:
993:
992:
988:
971:
967:
961:
958:
954:
943:on 2016-03-03
942:
938:
934:
930:
923:
920:
916:
911:
905:
901:
894:
892:
888:
884:
880:
874:
870:
863:
860:
856:
852:
848:
841:
838:
834:
830:
826:
825:
820:
814:
811:
807:
803:
797:
793:
786:
784:
780:
776:
764:
760:
756:
749:
746:
742:
740:
734:
728:
724:
717:
714:
709:
696:
689:
679:
672:
665:
662:
658:
653:
649:
642:
636:
634:
630:
626:
615:on 2007-02-22
611:
607:
603:
599:
595:
591:
587:
583:
579:
572:
565:
562:
558:
548:
544:
540:
536:
532:
528:
521:
514:
511:
507:
503:
497:
493:
486:
484:
482:
478:
474:
470:
464:
460:
453:
450:
445:
433:
426:
416:on 2007-07-22
412:
408:
402:
398:
394:
387:
386:
378:
375:
371:
367:
361:
357:
350:
347:
343:
339:
333:
329:
322:
319:
314:
310:
306:
302:
296:
292:
288:
284:
280:
273:
270:
259:on 2007-10-27
258:
254:
250:
246:
240:
237:
226:
222:
218:
212:
209:
202:
198:
195:
193:
190:
189:
185:
183:
181:
176:
174:
170:
166:
163:
158:
156:
152:
148:
144:
143:cross-hatched
140:
135:
128:
125:
123:
117:
115:
114:Cecil Peabody
111:
107:
103:
99:
95:
91:
87:
82:
80:
77:
73:
72:mathematician
70:
66:
62:
58:
54:
50:
46:
42:
41:standing wave
38:
34:
30:
29:hydrodynamics
21:
2349:
2294:Water column
2242:Oceanography
2217:Observations
2212:Explorations
2182:Marginal sea
2175:
2133:OSTM/Jason-2
1965:Volcanic arc
1940:Slab suction
1657:Head of tide
1547:Loop Current
1487:Ekman spiral
1273:Stokes drift
1183:Gravity wave
1158:Cnoidal wave
1152:
1049:
1030:
1026:
1013:
1009:
1000:
996:
974:. Retrieved
970:the original
960:
951:
945:. Retrieved
941:the original
936:
932:
922:
913:
899:
882:
868:
862:
854:
850:
846:
840:
832:
823:
813:
805:
791:
773:
767:. Retrieved
758:
748:
736:
722:
716:
695:cite journal
687:
681:. Retrieved
664:
655:
647:
623:
617:. Retrieved
610:the original
581:
577:
564:
556:
550:. Retrieved
530:
526:
513:
505:
491:
472:
458:
452:
424:
418:. Retrieved
411:the original
384:
377:
369:
355:
349:
341:
327:
321:
304:
300:
294:
282:
278:
272:
261:. Retrieved
257:the original
248:
239:
228:. Retrieved
220:
211:
180:sea kayaking
177:
159:
150:
147:interference
136:
132:
119:
109:
83:
60:
32:
26:
2372:Water waves
2284:Thermocline
2001:Mesopelagic
1974:Ocean zones
1945:Slab window
1810:Hydrography
1750:Abyssal fan
1717:Tidal range
1707:Tidal power
1702:Tidal force
1587:Rip current
1522:Gulf Stream
1482:Ekman layer
1472:Downwelling
1447:Baroclinity
1434:Circulation
1330:Wave height
1320:Wave action
1303:megatsunami
1283:Stokes wave
1243:Rossby wave
1208:Kelvin wave
1188:Green's law
1016:(1): 1–660.
853:(4): 3–48.
173:microseisms
165:microbaroms
94:wave height
2356:Categories
2222:Reanalysis
2121:Satellites
2102:Sofar bomb
1950:Subduction
1925:Ridge push
1820:Ocean bank
1800:Contourite
1727:Tide gauge
1712:Tidal race
1697:Tidal bore
1687:Slack tide
1652:Earth tide
1572:Ocean gyre
1392:Wind setup
1387:Wind fetch
1350:Wave setup
1345:Wave radar
1340:Wave power
1238:Rogue wave
1168:Dispersion
1003:: 509–616.
966:"Clapotis"
947:2007-11-28
915:character.
769:2007-11-28
683:2007-12-02
619:2007-11-29
552:2007-11-28
420:2007-11-28
263:2007-11-27
245:"clapotis"
230:2007-11-27
217:"clapotis"
203:References
192:Rogue wave
162:infrasonic
141:causing a
49:breakwater
2084:Acoustics
2036:Sea level
1935:Slab pull
1872:tectonics
1780:Cold seep
1742:Landforms
1619:Whirlpool
1614:Upwelling
1397:Wind wave
1325:Wave base
1253:Sea state
1173:Edge wave
1163:Cross sea
1068:(Video).
606:122413518
442:ignored (
432:cite book
86:monotonic
76:physicist
55:or steep
2317:Category
2269:Seawater
1996:Littoral
1991:Deep sea
1850:Seamount
1732:Tideline
1677:Rip tide
1607:shutdown
1577:Overflow
1310:Undertow
1153:Clapotis
1070:Archived
976:April 2,
821:(1904).
186:See also
155:vortices
61:clapotic
33:clapotis
2327:Commons
2197:Mooring
2147:Related
2138:Jason-3
2128:Jason-1
2011:Pelagic
2006:Oceanic
1981:Benthic
1298:Tsunami
1268:Soliton
1074:YouTube
586:Bibcode
535:Bibcode
393:Bibcode
307:: 137.
169:seismic
53:seawall
2016:Photic
1845:Seabed
1258:Seiche
906:
875:
798:
775:nodes.
729:
604:
498:
465:
403:
362:
334:
197:Seiche
90:normal
69:French
37:French
35:(from
2207:Ocean
2176:Alvin
2026:Swash
1870:Plate
1815:Knoll
1805:Guyot
1760:Atoll
1639:Tides
1402:model
1288:Swell
1120:Waves
674:(PDF)
644:(pdf)
613:(PDF)
602:S2CID
574:(PDF)
523:(PDF)
414:(PDF)
389:(PDF)
145:wave
57:cliff
2174:DSV
2159:Argo
2021:Surf
1477:Eddy
978:2017
904:ISBN
873:ISBN
796:ISBN
727:ISBN
708:help
496:ISBN
463:ISBN
444:help
401:ISBN
360:ISBN
332:ISBN
74:and
45:wave
31:, a
1035:doi
829:287
594:doi
582:177
543:doi
531:335
309:doi
287:doi
27:In
2358::
1031:15
1029:.
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1001:20
999:.
950:.
937:37
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912:.
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881:.
851:40
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761:.
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697:}}
693:{{
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430:{{
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399:.
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283:10
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1037::
980:.
710:)
706:(
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588::
545::
537::
446:)
395::
315:.
311::
289::
266:.
233:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
