448:
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47:
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31:
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494:. The remaining part of the route is now a public footpath known as The Metals, and much of the original granite paving survives. A number of the houses on nearby Ardbrugh Road may have been originally built as quarry staff cottages, though most quarrymen originally squatted or lived in primitive tents. The quarry was the scene of major
786:(E5 6b). The mid-1990s saw the dominance of Ronan Browner in driving standards in the quarry, however, his attempts to introduce bolted climbs led to a showdown at the 1994 IMC AGM and a decision to ban bolts from all traditional Irish crags, of which Dalkey was one. In 1994, Browner instead used homemade pegs on his re-named
715:(VS 4c). These routes were the first steps in the development of rock climbing in Ireland. The publication of the second IMC guidebook in 1949 saw many of the more obvious features climbed in the quarry. A new group of climbers pushed standards in the 1950s, with Fed Maguire, John Morrison, and Peter Kenny's 1951 ascent of
520:. The move met with opposition from local residents, climbers, and environmentalists, and the plans were eventually dropped. In May 2010, DLRCC angered climbers when they removed several large boulders from the quarry, disrupting climbing routes and potentially damaging other climbing routes in the process.
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The word 'quarry' can often turn some people off (hope you got this far!), me included, but Dalkey is much more appealing than most. It's very green at the base, in fact, it's like a maze of narrow paths, and some points taking you through head-high gorse. The rock type is granite, so makes a change
738:
By 1964, Barry O'Flynn's fourth guidebook had 71 climbs which included more classic VS and HVS climbs from
Maguire, Kopczynski, and others. The 1970s saw grades pushed even higher and particularly with the arrival of the Windrim brothers (Sean and Donal), with Sean putting up major classics such as
853:
routes, the quarry does have two areas, the "Ivy
Chimney" section in the East Valley being the most popular area due to its ability to stay dry in damp conditions (its popularity dates from the pre-indoor climbing wall period), and the "Traverse Wall" in the West Valley that contains long and low
541:
There are three main climbing sections, the "Upper Cliffs", the "West Valley", and the "East Valley". Access to the West and East Valley sections is via the main entrance on
Ardbrugh Road (just off Dalkey Avenue). Beside the East Valley section is a "Far East Valley" section, however, it is on
1254:
from the quarries in this country, which in my experience are predominantly limestone, grit or slate. It's pretty large being split into three areas (West Valley, East Valley and Upper Tier) and also has a huge variety of routes â slabs, cracks, chimneys, steep blocky overhangs, you name it.
542:
private property and closed to climbing. The East Valley section splits into the three sub-sections, "Ivy
Chimney", "Eliminate Wall", and "Ghost Slab". The West Valley section splits into four sub-sections, "Pilaster", "Paradise Lost Slab", "Winder's Slab", and "Jameson 10 Wall".
553:), dropping steeply via a set of concrete steps to the base of the Upper Cliffs. The Upper Cliffs splits into three sub-sections, "Central Buttress" (overlooks the East Valley), "Tower Ridge" (between the two valleys), and the "White Wall" (overlooks the West Valley).
751:(E2 5c) in 1978, described by the guidebook as "probably the most fallen off route in the quarry". The 1980s saw the arrival of a new generation that included Tony Burke (described in the MCI guidebook as "The Quarry Guru") who added
674:
still remain (they are rarely replaced when they break), they should be treated with caution. Extreme climbers have used metal pegs hammered into existing cracks to reduce the risk on routes with almost no natural protection (e.g.
624:
which means the rock is some parts is very solid whilst in other areas it is frail and friable. Routes vary in nature, with steep finger-cracks and bare slabs featuring prominently. Being granite (with some bands of
467:, as well as for the construction of the South Bull Wall (part of the outer defences of Dublin Harbour) and as flagstone for Dublin streets. In the 1840s, stone from the quarry was exported to Newfoundland by
545:
Directly above the East and West valleys is the Upper Cliffs. It can be accessed by the broad ridge that separates the East and West valleys (along which the quarry railway ran), or via a
1776:
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After the construction of the harbour, quarrying only continued sporadically thereafter before finally ending in 1917. In 1914, the quarry was taken over by what is now known as
1813:
1818:
472:
404:, which was used to build several large maritime structures in south Dublin. Since passing into public ownership in the early 20th century and becoming part of
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798:(E7 6c, previously F7b+), the first E7 at the quarry, later considered E8 (one of Ireland's first). In 1999, Browner added a second E7 to Dalkey with
476:
636:, published in 2005, lists about 300 routes, at grades up to E7, while the online guidebook contains over 350 routes with grades to E8 6c (e.g.
1047:
Pollock, J. (2004). Geology of the Roman
Catholic Basilica of St. John the Baptist, St. John's, Newfoundland. Geoscience Canada, 31(1), 10-Jan.
854:
warm-up routes. The problems are not boulders per se, but the start of traditional climbing routes, and low traverses across various walls.
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648:'s 1 km-long cliff has circa 200 routes), however, it is due to its position as the most accessible outdoor rock climbing area for Dublin.
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venues in
Ireland, with over 350 graded routes, some of which are amongst the hardest single-pitch rock climbs in the country such as
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Central
Buttress on the Upper Cliffs, home to the quarry's longest routes and some of the hardest. Lines from left to right:
1093:
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in the 1820s as quarry workers, who then numbered over 1,000 with their families, looked for better pay and conditions.
480:
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Browner continued to put up extreme new routes in the quarry. In 2000, he added a direct finish to Burke's 1994 classic
549:
path from the
Killiney Hill car-park, that passes an old signalling tower (British military tower to signal neighbouring
46:
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98:
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thus opening it up to the general public. In 1998, the DLRCC drew up proposals to turn the quarry's West Valley into a
1355:
782:(E5 6a) without the peg runner to free what the guidebook calls "one of the best routes in the quarry"; Burke added
491:
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now regraded to E8). The number and density of routes in Dalkey Quarry is high given the size of the quarry (e.g.
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914:
704:
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629:), the climbing friction is good, but being quarried, it is not as good as fully weathered natural granite.
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routes (there are some multi-pitch routes), and between 10â35 metres (33â115 ft) in length. The rock is
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Apart from the concrete steps down from the signalling tower to the Upper Cliffs section, the quarry is not
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guidebook states that any newly placed manufactured bolts will be removed promptly. The availability of
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in the Upper Cliffs section; climbing in the vicinity of the nests is banned during the nesting periods.
821:(E7 6c), the third E7 in the quarry. Other long-standing problems were solved and gaps filled including
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833:(E6 6b) in 2012 by Stephen McGowan. In 2020, Conor McGovern added a second E8 with his ascent of
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Layout and access of Dalkey Quarry, showing the East Valley, West Valley, and Upper Cliffs area.
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1117:"Working-Class Resistance in Pre-Famine County Dublin: The Dalkey Quarry Strikes of the 1820s"
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Dalkey Quarry, looking north and down into the West Valley, from the top of the Upper Cliffs
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in the East Valley). In addition, several shorter traditional climbs are now ascended as
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479:. In the 1860s, a two-ton foundation stone of Dalkey granite was used for the base of the
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759:(E3 5c) in 1985, and Howard Hebblethwaite (often climbing partner of Burke) who added
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707:(IMC), and a handwritten guidebook of thirteen routes was published that included
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In 1942, the quarry's first recorded climbs were made by members of the
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719:(E1 4a, 5b, 4b), considered a milestone, and Kenny's 1951 ascents of
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1990 saw a burst of new extremes including Donie O'Sullivan adding
817:(E6 6b), and in the same year partnered with Hebblethwaite to add
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Between the
Mountains and the Sea: Dun Laoghaire-Rathdown County
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911:, major rock climbing dolerite mountain crag in County Antrim
363:
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varies but is generally considered good, and while some old
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in order to supply granite for the construction of the new
369:
905:, major rock climbing limestone sea-cliff in County Clare
1205:"Climbers and residents oppose Dalkey halting site plan"
505:(DLRCC), and most of the land was added to the existing
1777:
List of long-distance trails in the
Republic of Ireland
572:
quarry. The vegetation is home to wildlife, including
490:, part of whose alignment was later used to build the
486:
The quarry was connected to DĂșn Laoghaire by a light
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217:
Public park; 10 minutes walk from Dalkey DART station
727:(both VS 4b), and Andre Kopczynski's 1952 ascent of
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568:growth, and thus no longer resembles a typical
424:, first ascended in 1995). The climbs are all
1439:Browner, Ronan; Hebblethwaite, Howard (2005).
1389:(2nd ed.). Three Rock Books. p. 46.
1268:"Peregrine falcon found dead at Dalkey Quarry"
1177:"Explorations in England, Ireland, and France"
1058:"History of Monuments - O'Connell Street Area"
989:Browner, Ronan; Hebblethwaite, Howard (2005).
1570:
644:'s 5 km long cliff has circa 450 routes, and
8:
683:), which are tolerated and remain in place.
1354:Barrios-O'Neill, Danny (17 February 2014).
1577:
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439:are tolerated on the most extreme routes.
435:routes are permitted, although some metal
408:, it has become one of the most important
20:
1544:Irish Climbing Online Wiki: Dalkey Quarry
1525:, DĂșn LaoghaireâRathdown County Council.
1243:
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1239:
731:(HVS 5a). In 1957, Paddy O'Leary put up
1814:Surface mines in the Republic of Ireland
1523:The Metals: From Dalkey To Dun Laoghaire
1148:The Metals: From Dalkey To Dun Laoghaire
166:circa 40 metres (130 ft) at highest
1697:Dublin Climbers and Mountaineers (DCAM)
1356:"Emerald Allsorts: Irish Climbing 2013"
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813:(E6 6c), In 2004, he added the classic
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608:(E4 6a). Signalling tower is top left.
1289:"Dublin Rock Climbing: Dalkey Quarry"
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1152:DĂșn LaoghaireâRathdown County Council
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503:DĂșn LaoghaireâRathdown County Council
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1266:Fitzgerald, Cormac (11 April 2016).
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18:Dublin's largest rock climbing venue
1464:(2nd ed.). Three Rock Books.
837:(E8 6c) in the East Valley beside
699:(HVS 5b, 1957), in the West Valley
455:Quarrying started in 1815â1817 on
14:
1441:Dalkey Quarry Rock Climbing Guide
1226:"Dalkey Quarry action criticised"
995:Mountaineering Council of Ireland
385:) is a long-disused 19th century
560:and is left wild with extensive
473:Basilica of St. John the Baptist
353:
52:
45:
29:
1819:Parks in DĂșn LaoghaireâRathdown
1715:Irish Mountaineering Club (IMC)
1387:Bouldering in Ireland Paperback
829:in 2009 by Michael Duffy, and
420:, one of Ireland's first-ever
1:
1551:Dalkey Quarry Online Database
1510:, Dublin: The O'Brien Press.
1251:. UKC Log. 23 November 2007.
1094:Dictionary of Irish Biography
794:at F7a), and a year later on
451:Route of quarry railway, 1837
237:82 metres (269 ft) a.s.l
209:+350 routes (online database)
1772:List of mountains in Ireland
1203:Cullen, Paul (9 July 1998).
1087:Quinn, James; Boylan, Sean.
471:for the construction of the
1703:Belfast Climbing Club (BCC)
1224:Cullen, Paul (5 May 2010).
877:, popular candidates being
1835:
1443:. Mountaineering Ireland.
857:Boulder grades range from
492:Dalkey Atmospheric Railway
1799:Climbing areas of Ireland
1766:
1115:Breathnach, Colm (2005).
915:Irish Mountaineering Club
865: (V8) (Ricky Bell's
705:Irish Mountaineering Club
612:Routes are mainly single-
340:Climbing.ie Dalkey Quarry
40:
28:
1483:Rock Climbing in Ireland
1481:Flanagan, David (2014).
1460:Flanagan, David (2013).
1385:Flanagan, David (2013).
1175:Brennan, Joseph (2020).
1025:Rock Climbing in Ireland
1023:Flanagan, David (2014).
849:While not noted for its
1691:Dal Riada Climbing Club
1506:Pearson, Peter (1998).
1411:"Dalkey Quarry: Routes"
1330:The Way That We Climbed
1327:O'Leary, Paddy (2015).
1249:"Dalkey Quarry, Dublin"
61:Location in Dublin City
1721:Mountaineering Ireland
1521:Goodbody, Rob (2010).
1146:Goodbody, Rob (2010).
1089:"McSwiney, Peter Paul"
700:
664:Mountaineering Ireland
609:
538:
469:Bishop Michael Fleming
452:
253:Camping is not allowed
1723:(representative body)
1462:Bouldering in Ireland
1433:Climbing bibliography
1333:. The Collins Press.
747:(E2 5b) in 1976, and
694:
595:
536:
450:
1501:General bibliography
1485:. Three Rock Books.
1027:. Three Rock Books.
883:Solitary Confinement
835:Blackberry Nightmare
765:Solitary Confinement
653:traditional climbing
426:traditional climbing
1631:Binn idir an dĂĄ Log
1307:Irish Climbing Wiki
1291:. Hike & Climb.
1182:Columbia University
1066:Dublin City Council
871:highball bouldering
867:Super Pitch Shifter
790:(E6 6a, previously
778:(E6 6b), and doing
767:(E5 6b) in 1985.
668:climbing protection
651:Dalkey Quarry is a
176:Mostly single pitch
117: /
1738:Charles Barrington
885:(E5 6b, 14m), and
784:Return of the Jedi
701:
610:
576:, and since 2014,
539:
507:Killiney Hill Park
481:O'Connell Monument
453:
406:Killiney Hill Park
121:53.2711°N 6.1069°W
1786:
1785:
893: (V8), 9m).
788:Bitter Aftertaste
681:Bitter Aftertaste
588:Routes and ethics
578:peregrine falcons
529:Layout and access
496:industrial action
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796:Indecent Assault
792:The Great Escape
757:Hari Kari Groove
717:Central Buttress
713:Gwynne's Chimney
687:Climbing history
677:Indecent Assault
662:routes, and the
638:Indecent Assault
602:Central Buttress
414:Indecent Assault
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265:Central Buttress
227:Multiple aspects
206:Quantity of rock
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1661:Lough Nahanagan
1607:Aill na Cronain
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1549:UK climbing.com
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1303:"Dalkey Quarry"
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875:bouldering mats
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831:Captain Skyhook
741:Blazing Saddles
733:Gargoyle Groove
697:Gargoyle Groove
689:
590:
580:have sometimes
551:Martello towers
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463:pier at nearby
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277:Graham Crackers
271:Gargoyle Groove
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1538:External links
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1531:978-0955782930
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1492:978-0956787422
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881:(VS 4c, 15m),
873:problems with
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811:Sans O2 Finish
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660:sport climbing
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428:routes and no
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1758:Dermot Somers
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1673:Muckross Head
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24:Dalkey Quarry
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1753:Frank Winder
1709:Club Cualann
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1418:. Retrieved
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763:(E4 6a) and
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753:Porn for Fun
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743:(E2 5c) and
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709:Fifth Avenue
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514:halting site
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313:The Prisoner
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223:Cliff aspect
88:Nearest city
15:
1655:Glendalough
1625:Ben Lugmore
1230:Irish Times
1210:Irish Times
887:Block Party
823:Block Party
807:Chomolungma
761:Port Cullis
735:(HVS 5b).
729:In Abenstia
632:The latest
606:Port Cullis
483:in Dublin.
457:Dalkey Hill
394:Dalkey Hill
392:located on
301:Port Cullis
245:Public park
214:Development
144:Traditional
124: /
99:Coordinates
92:Dublin City
74:Dalkey Hill
1793:Categories
1748:Joss Lynam
1415:UKClimbing
1360:UKClimbing
1272:Journal.ie
1004:0902940201
921:References
861: to
851:bouldering
845:Bouldering
839:Alexandria
815:Alexandria
772:Ripsnorter
749:The Shield
570:industrial
558:landscaped
518:travellers
477:St. John's
400:suburb of
319:The Shield
283:Jameson 10
154:Bouldering
109:53°16âČ16âłN
1717:(Wicklow)
1705:(Belfast)
1675:(Donegal)
1669:(Wicklow)
1663:(Wicklow)
1657:(Wicklow)
1643:Fair Head
1613:Ballyryan
909:Fair Head
802:(E7 6c).
800:Slapstick
774:(E5 6a),
745:The Ghost
642:Fair Head
634:guidebook
604:(E1 5b),
600:(E7 6b),
598:Slapstick
422:E8 routes
307:The Ghost
242:Ownership
233:Elevation
195:Rock type
149:Abseiling
112:6°06âČ25âłW
1809:Quarries
1711:(Dublin)
1699:(Dublin)
1693:(Dublin)
1645:(Antrim)
1639:(Dublin)
1633:(Galway)
1621:(Galway)
1601:Ailladie
903:Ailladie
897:See also
889:(E7 6c,
879:Pilaster
825:(E7 6c)
780:Prisoner
776:Asterisk
725:Hyperion
646:Ailladie
327:(HVS 5a)
295:Pilaster
279:(HVS 5a)
273:(HVS 5b)
70:Location
1667:Luggala
1651:(Kerry)
1619:Bencorr
1615:(Clare)
1609:(Clare)
1603:(Clare)
1121:Saothar
622:jointed
618:granite
566:bramble
511:caravan
488:railway
461:harbour
443:History
396:in the
387:granite
335:Website
321:(E2 5c)
315:(E5 6a)
309:(E2 5b)
303:(E4 6a)
297:(VS 4c)
285:(VS 4b)
250:Camping
200:Granite
182:Ratings
172:Pitches
1804:Dalkey
1627:(Mayo)
1585:Irish
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1420:29 May
1393:
1365:28 May
1337:
1312:28 May
1188:28 May
1158:
1131:30 May
1127:: 9â19
1100:27 May
1072:27 May
1031:
1001:
827:soloed
721:Helios
672:pitons
657:bolted
627:quartz
582:nested
547:tarmac
430:bolted
402:Dalkey
398:Dublin
390:quarry
325:Thrust
163:Height
78:Dalkey
1061:(PDF)
614:pitch
574:foxes
562:gorse
418:E8 6c
1527:ISBN
1512:ISBN
1487:ISBN
1466:ISBN
1445:ISBN
1422:2022
1391:ISBN
1367:2022
1335:ISBN
1314:2022
1190:2022
1156:ISBN
1133:2022
1102:2024
1074:2024
1029:ISBN
999:ISBN
819:Lush
723:and
679:and
564:and
516:for
437:pegs
382:-kee
291:(VD)
863:7B+
475:in
380:DAW
1795::
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364:ÉË
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370:i
367:k
361:d
358:Ë
355:/
351:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
