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done Mont Blanc in record time, and was probably still feeling the strain. Then, the
Matterhorn had been another long ordeal. His shoes were worn out and made him slip constantly. At each step Croz had to make Hadow's feet secure, and to do so he had to lay down his ice axe so that he had no support himself. Suddenly, while Croz was turning round to continue the descent, after having made Hadow secure, Hadow slipped and both of his feet struck Croz in the back. The guide lost his footing and fell headlong down the steep slope, dragging the boy with him. Hudson came next, then Douglas; none had time to react ...
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having melted and frozen again during the night. Still it was a place which any fair mountaineer might pass in safety. We found, however, that Mr. Hadow was not accustomed to this kind of work, and required continual assistance; but no one suggested that he should stop, and he was taken to the top. It is only fair to say that the difficulty experienced by Mr. Hadow at this part arose, not from fatigue and lack of courage, but simply and entirely from want of experience.
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Hadow was one of those active young
Englishmen capable, with experienced companions, of going anywhere. I say distinctly that Hudson and Croz were fully qualified to conduct him on the proposed expedition, and that the sum of the powers of the party was much above the average of half the parties that
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Farrar notes, however, that '... the real cause of the accident was not the slip made by Hadow, nor the breaking of the rope, but the want of coherence in the "fortuitously" formed party. The great lesson to be learned from the occurrence is to undertake no serious expedition with a large party. 'A
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When the tragedy occurred, Whymper did not see it: he was behind a rock. His surmises are probably correct, but they are only surmises. From the beginning of the descent, Hadow was showing signs of exhaustion. The boy was certainly at the end of his endurance. With Hudson a few days earlier he had
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The general slope of the mountain at this part was less than forty degrees, and snow had consequently accumulated and filled up the irregularities of the rock face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting here and there. These were at times coated with a thin glaze of ice, from the snow above
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Before admitting his friend—Mr. Hadow—I took the precaution of asking what he had done in the Alps, and, as well as I remember, Mr. Hudson's reply was, "Mr. Hadow has done Mont Blanc in less time than most men." He then mentioned several other expeditions that were unknown to me, and added, in
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During the first ascent of the
Matterhorn on 14 July 1865, Hadow was, however, challenged by the technical difficulties presented by the mountain. Whymper noticed his inexperience after the party had traversed onto what he termed the 'north-west face' whilst ascending the mountain. In a piece
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and
Charles Hudson) with him down the north face of the mountain to their deaths. (The other three members of the party – Whymper and Taugwalder father and son – were saved when the rope between them and Douglas snapped.) Claire Engel comments:
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Hadow's slip on the descent of the mountain was the immediate cause of the accident. He was the second on the rope as the party went down and he slipped not far from the summit, dragging three members of the party
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338:, vol. III, pp. 75–6, T. S. Kennedy wrote that Hadow took five and a half hours from the Grands Mulets to the summit of Mont Blanc, and descended to
413:. Retrieved 10 April 2008. The text (in German) states 'The shoe appears to be in no state to tackle anything steeper than a flight of stairs.'
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29:. Hadow is second from the bottom, with Croz below him. The snapped rope above Hudson and Douglas is clearly seen.
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and other climbs; these ascents – together with the backing of a climber of Hudson's stature – persuaded
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in
Lincolnshire, and a leading advocate of guideless climbing. Together they made a swift ascent of
107:, where he and six of his brothers who also attended the school were known as the 'Harrow Hadows'.
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Hadow's body was recovered from the
Matterhorn Glacier and he was buried at the churchyard in
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186:. The fatal accident occurred on the sunny snow slopes at the top right of the mountain.
76:), who married at Southbroom on 28 January 1845. Hadow's paternal great-grandfather was
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answer to a further question, "I consider he is a sufficiently good man to go with us."
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In 1865, at the age of nineteen, Hadow undertook his first trip to the
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The accident on the
Matterhorn, triggered by Hadow, in an engraving by
164:(1917–19) concurred with this positive estimation of Hadow's ability:
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http://swissalpin.wordpress.com/2007/09/09/ernstfall-am-matterhorn
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278:(page 288) online at books.google.co.uk (accessed 10 April 2008)
254:, together with the snapped rope and other relics of the climb.
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332:, 6th edition, London: John Murray, 1936, pp. 305–6. In the
60:, London, the son of Patrick Douglas Hadow (Chairman of the
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that Hadow was a suitable companion for an attempt on the
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Edward
Whymper, 'The Fatal Accident on the Matterhorn',
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J. P. Farrar, 'A Modern View of the 1865 Accident', in
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online at books.google.co.uk (accessed 10 April 2008)
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online at irelandoldnews.com (accessed 10 April 2008)
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Zermatt
Tourist Office. Retrieved 20 September 2009
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Modern View of the 1865 Accident', Alpine J, XXXII.
357:, vol. XXXII (1918), reprinted in Edward Whymper,
36:(30 May 1846 – 14 July 1865) was a British novice
319:at Wikimedia Commons (accessed 15 February 2009)
250:. One of Hadow's shoes can be seen in Zermatt's
401:, London: George Allen and Unwin, 1971, p. 121.
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156:In 'A Modern View of the 1865 Accident', the
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56:Hadow was born in 1846 at 49 York Terrace,
64:) and Emma Harriett Nisbet (daughter of
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208:shortly after the accident, he wrote:
92:, and one of his younger brothers was
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274:Volume 1 (London, E. Churton, 1846)
62:P. & O. Steam Navigation Company
40:who died on the descent after the
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457:People educated at Harrow School
361:, 6th edition, 1936, pp. 367–74.
16:British novice mountain climber
197:First ascent of the Matterhorn
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276:Births, Marriages, and Deaths
467:Sport deaths in Switzerland
169:go mountain-climbing today.
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399:Mountaineering in the Alps
376:Peaks, Passes and Glaciers
359:Scrambles amongst the Alps
330:Scrambles amongst the Alps
303:for January to June 1845,
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452:British mountain climbers
472:Deaths on the Matterhorn
301:The Gentleman's Magazine
111:First season in the Alps
90:University of St Andrews
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103:Hadow was educated at
98:Wimbledon championship
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462:Mountaineering deaths
374:, 1865, reprinted in
288:Index of Irish Deaths
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142:Whymper later wrote:
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225:Lord Francis Douglas
34:Douglas Robert Hadow
191:Matterhorn accident
123:, a clergyman from
66:Robert Parry Nisbet
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86:Oriental Languages
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317:Hadow family tree
299:Urban, Sylvanus,
252:Matterhorn Museum
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423:The Matterhorn
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397:Claire Engel,
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354:Alpine Journal
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342:in five hours.
335:Alpine Journal
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133:Edward Whymper
121:Charles Hudson
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96:, who won the
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162:J. P. Farrar
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78:George Hadow
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42:first ascent
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27:Gustave Doré
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447:1865 deaths
442:1846 births
229:Michel Croz
158:Alpine Club
125:Skillington
94:Frank Hadow
38:mountaineer
436:Categories
305:pp 421–422
258:References
195:See also:
184:Matterhorn
137:Matterhorn
129:Mont Blanc
46:Matterhorn
372:The Times
205:The Times
100:in 1878.
74:Wiltshire
340:Chamonix
240:—
216:—
172:—
150:—
248:Zermatt
88:at the
44:of the
82:Hebrew
52:Family
68:, of
182:The
117:Alps
84:and
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223:(
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