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Edward FitzGerald (mountaineer)

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148: 246: 308:, where several attempts were made to reach the summit via what is now known as the Normal Route. Five attempts were made over six weeks before Zurbriggen reached the summit alone on 14 January 1897. FitzGerald had been with Zurbriggen during the ascent, but on all attempts became nauseous at around 6,000 metres (20,000 ft). Eventually, fearing he would never reach the summit and the first ascent of Aconcagua would not be made, he sent Zurbriggen on alone. 253: 270: 516: 30: 311:
A period of heavy snow followed Zurbriggen's ascent, during which no further attempts could be made, but FitzGerald continued the siege a month later. Again he became ill during the ascent, but on 13 February 1897, the Englishman Stuart Vines and Italian guide Nicola Lanti also reached the summit.
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In 1896/97 FitzGerald personally financed and led a large expedition to South America to complete scientific surveys and make first ascents of some of the highest peaks in the Andes. The expedition included a geologist, surveyor, engineer, and naturalist, and six alpine guides led by Zurbriggen.
269: 210:, but local climbers, alarmed their highest mountain might first be climbed by foreigners, climbed it a few days after FitzGerald's arrival. He and Zurbriggen made the first ascent of 546: 332:, and was promoted captain in 1906, and major in 1912. He was employed in the War Office from 1914 to 1919. In 1903 he stopped climbing after an accident in 196: 175:, and was the third son of William John FitzGerald, barrister, a British subject, and Mary, daughter of Eli White, of New York. He was educated at 328:, where he received a commission as second lieutenant in the 5th dragoon guards, and first lieutenant in 1901. He was later transferred to the 490: 420: 183:, where he matriculated in 1890 but did not graduate. His elder brother was Augustine (called Austin), a painter, and his elder sister was 176: 541: 463:
The Highest Andes: A Record of the First Ascent of Aconcagua and Tupungato in Argentina, and the Exploration of the Surrounding Valleys
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valley approach to 6,959 metres (22,831 ft) Aconcagua, FitzGerald made a base camp at around 4,250 metres (13,940 ft) in the
329: 180: 223: 215: 278: 172: 164: 50: 357: 337: 100: 203:. Sufficiently impressed, FitzGerald decided to hire Zurbriggen as his guide for the next five years. 147: 536: 531: 305: 135:
and soldier of British descent, best known for leading the expedition which made the first ascent of
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FitzGerald is commemorated in the scientific name of a species of South American lizard,
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In 1894/95 FitzGerald travelled to New Zealand, intending to make the first ascent of
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Ritratto di signora in viaggio: un'americana cosmopolita nel mondo di Henry James
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Later in the expedition Vines and Zurbriggen also made the first ascent of
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for a walk across the Alps in 1894, where he met the Swiss guide
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In 1900 FitzGerald joined the imperial yeomanry to fight in the
485:. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press. xiii + 296 pp. 139:, the highest mountain in the American Continent, in 1897. 415:] (eBook) (in Italian). Rome: Donzelli Editore. 131:(10 May 1871 – 2 January 1931) was an American-born 96: 88: 78: 57: 36: 20: 8: 28: 17: 465:. London: Methuen & Co. xvi + 390 pp. 547:American emigrants to the United Kingdom 376: 374: 320:Career and personal life after Aconcagua 177:St Paul's School, Concord, New Hampshire 387:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography 370: 289: 343:FitzGerald died on 2 January 1931 at 7: 452:. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books. 14: 483:The Eponym Dictionary of Reptiles 336:and married traveller and author 260:Read by Phil Schempf for LibriVox 195:He joined the Himalayan explorer 116: 514: 290:Problems playing this file? See 266: 258:by Edward Arthur FitzGerald 1898 244: 407:Pallastrelli, Gottardo (2018). 171:FitzGerald was born in 1871 at 112: 437:Climbs in the New Zealand Alps 1: 413:Portrait of a Travelling Lady 214:, and with the New Zealander 493:. ("Fitzgerald", pp. 90–91). 155:of New Zealand (from left): 92:Mountaineer, author, soldier 513:(public domain audiobooks) 481:; Grayson, Michael (2011). 461:FitzGerald, Edward (1899). 450:Aconcagua: a climbing guide 435:FitzGerald, Edward (1896). 383:"FitzGerald, Edward Arthur" 330:6th (Inniskilling) Dragoons 563: 542:American mountain climbers 507:Works by Edward FitzGerald 439:. London: T. Fisher Unwin. 256:"The Ascent of Anconcagua" 181:Trinity College, Cambridge 300:After reconnoitering the 27: 143:Background and education 129:Edward Arthur FitzGerald 173:Litchfield, Connecticut 165:George Edward Mannering 51:Litchfield, Connecticut 168: 358:Liolaemus fitzgeraldi 150: 448:Secor, R.J. (1999). 238:Aconcagua expedition 151:Mountaineers in the 115: 1903; 201:Matthias Zurbriggen 157:Matthias Zurbriggen 338:Ménie Muriel Dowie 169: 101:Ménie Muriel Dowie 491:978-1-4214-0135-5 381:Hansen, Peter H. 326:South African War 271: 261: 126: 125: 22:Edward FitzGerald 554: 518: 517: 494: 479:Watkins, Michael 472: 466: 459: 453: 446: 440: 433: 427: 426: 422:978-88-6843-7770 404: 398: 397: 395: 393: 378: 277:Audio 00:34:07 ( 273: 272: 255: 248: 167:and Jack Adamson 120: 118: 114: 67: 65: 46: 44: 32: 18: 562: 561: 557: 556: 555: 553: 552: 551: 522: 521: 515: 503: 498: 497: 473: 469: 460: 456: 447: 443: 434: 430: 423: 406: 405: 401: 391: 389: 380: 379: 372: 367: 353: 322: 306:Horcones Valley 297: 296: 288: 286: 285: 284: 283: 282: 274: 267: 264: 262: 259: 257: 249: 240: 232:Mount Haidinger 193: 161:Arthur Ollivier 145: 122: 119: 1928) 110: 105: 74: 69: 63: 61: 53: 48: 42: 40: 23: 12: 11: 5: 560: 558: 550: 549: 544: 539: 534: 524: 523: 520: 519: 502: 501:External links 499: 496: 495: 467: 454: 441: 428: 421: 399: 369: 368: 366: 363: 352: 349: 321: 318: 287: 276: 275: 265: 254: 252: 251: 250: 243: 242: 241: 239: 236: 192: 191:Mountaineering 189: 144: 141: 124: 123: 108: 106: 103: 98: 94: 93: 90: 86: 85: 80: 76: 75: 70: 68:2 January 1931 59: 55: 54: 49: 38: 34: 33: 25: 24: 21: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 559: 548: 545: 543: 540: 538: 535: 533: 530: 529: 527: 512: 508: 505: 504: 500: 492: 488: 484: 480: 476: 471: 468: 464: 458: 455: 451: 445: 442: 438: 432: 429: 424: 418: 414: 410: 403: 400: 388: 384: 377: 375: 371: 364: 362: 360: 359: 350: 348: 346: 341: 340:(1866–1945). 339: 335: 331: 327: 319: 317: 315: 309: 307: 303: 295: 293: 280: 263: 247: 237: 235: 233: 229: 225: 221: 217: 213: 209: 204: 202: 198: 197:Martin Conway 190: 188: 186: 182: 178: 174: 166: 162: 159:, Fizgerald, 158: 154: 153:Tasman Valley 149: 142: 140: 138: 134: 130: 102: 99: 95: 91: 89:Occupation(s) 87: 84: 81: 77: 73: 60: 56: 52: 39: 35: 31: 26: 19: 16: 482: 470: 462: 457: 449: 444: 436: 431: 412: 408: 402: 390:. Retrieved 386: 356: 354: 342: 323: 310: 298: 228:Mount Tasman 212:Mount Sefton 205: 194: 170: 128: 127: 15: 537:1931 deaths 532:1871 births 475:Beolens, Bo 392:20 December 220:Mount Sealy 216:Jack Clarke 133:mountaineer 79:Nationality 47:10 May 1871 526:Categories 365:References 292:media help 224:Silberhorn 208:Mount Cook 187:, a poet. 64:1931-01-02 43:1871-05-10 314:Tupungato 279:full text 179:, and at 137:Aconcagua 511:LibriVox 185:Caroline 83:American 334:Zermatt 121:​ 109:​ 104:​ 489:  419:  351:Legacy 345:London 97:Spouse 72:London 411:[ 302:Vacas 111:( 107: 487:ISBN 417:ISBN 394:2012 230:and 58:Died 37:Born 509:at 528:: 477:; 385:. 373:^ 361:. 347:. 316:. 234:. 226:, 222:, 163:, 117:s. 113:m. 425:. 396:. 294:. 281:) 66:) 62:( 45:) 41:(

Index


Litchfield, Connecticut
London
American
Ménie Muriel Dowie
mountaineer
Aconcagua

Tasman Valley
Matthias Zurbriggen
Arthur Ollivier
George Edward Mannering
Litchfield, Connecticut
St Paul's School, Concord, New Hampshire
Trinity College, Cambridge
Caroline
Martin Conway
Matthias Zurbriggen
Mount Cook
Mount Sefton
Jack Clarke
Mount Sealy
Silberhorn
Mount Tasman
Mount Haidinger

"The Ascent of Anconcagua"
by Edward Arthur FitzGerald 1898
Read by Phil Schempf for LibriVox

full text
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