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hopeless. To add to their difficulties, bad weather came in with snow and intense cold. They had no alternative but to remain exactly where they were for the night, and, if they survived it, to attempt the descent of the almost precipitous ice-slopes they had with such difficulty ascended. Through the long hours of the bitter night, they stood, roped together, without daring to move, on a narrow ridge, hacked level with their ice-axes. They believed their case was hopeless. Although
Andreas Maurer's own back was frozen hard to the ice-wall against which he leaned, and in spite of driving snow and numbing cold, he opened his coat, waistcoat and shirt, and through the long hours of the night he held, pressed against his bare chest, the half-frozen body of the traveller who had urged him to undertake the expedition. The morning broke, still and clear, and at six o'clock, having thawed their stiffened limbs in the warm sun, they commenced the descent. Probably no finer feat in ice-work has ever been performed than that accomplished by Maurer and Rey on that day. Had the bad weather continued, the party could not possibly have descended alive. It then took ten hours of continuous down-climbing on steep ice to reach safety, after eighteen hours of continuous effort without food on the previous day, followed by a night of horrors such as few can realise.
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making their toilsome pilgrimage from
Chamonix. Among them was an Englishman, who had first provided himself with green spectacles, a veil, and socks to go over his patent leather shoes, and who only wanted a guide to complete his preparations. Going up to Rey, and pointing first to the Mer de Glace, and then to the Chapeau, he inquired "Combiang?" " Voilà, Monsieur," replied Rey, taking off his hat, and indicating with his left hand a group of rather poor specimens of the distinguished Société des Guides, " Voilà les guides pour la Mer de Glace; moi, je suis pour 'la Grande Montagne.'"
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it back down to
Grindelwald. One of the alpine climbers who was with Rey, C.D. Cunningham, later wrote how impressed he was with the "great force of character and power of organisation that Rey displayed". He observed how Rey's ability to take the lead without seeming to take command of his fellow guides provided "the moving spirit of the whole party".
390:, Joseph Jean-Baptiste and Daniele Maquignaz and Giuseppe Maquignaz and two porters. They went from the Aiguilles Grises, cutting many steps in the Bosses Ridge to reach the summit, and then descended to the Grand Mulets, on 5 January. It was later described as a "very remarkable and daring enterprise".
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in order to learn German so that, as a leading guide himself, he would be better equipped to work with some of the top Swiss guides such as
Andreas Maurer whose mountaineering skills he much admired. He knew they would constantly come into contact with one another, and that this would better help him
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and narrowly avoided being killed in an avalanche. However another guided party some ten minutes behind his was struck by falling ice, and their client, a Herr Munz, was killed, and his guide, Meyer, very severely injured, and subsequently died. Rey took the lead in retrieving Munz's body and taking
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in wild surroundings", it can be subject to bad stonefall on both sides. It is not used as a route between adjacent glaciers, but can be used by mountaineers to access the
Brouillard Ridge. The first traverse of the Col Émile Rey was made in 1899 by G.B. and G.F. Gugliermina with N. Shiavi, exactly
550:
Cunningham also noted how willing Rey always was to attend to his clients' needs first, rather than his own, whether more immediate needs in the hut following a long and very tiring day, or in being bold on the rock to ensure they would overcome all difficulties to attain their summit. Despite this
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He always draws a most distinct line between those of the higher and those of the lower grades in his craft. One morning, at the
Montanvert, we were watching the arrival of the 'polyglots,' as an ingenious person once christened that crowd composed of nearly every nationality, who may daily be seen
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Rey has, however, been described as a man who never underestimated his own abilities as a mountain guide, nor did he try to conceal the pride he got from having gained such a good reputation. Writing in 'Pioneers of the Alps (1888) Cunningham, with whom he had made numerous alpine ascents over many
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Rey was known to have always kept himself fit and in condition. He never smoked and was described as always having a temperate manner in whatever he did, and was always courteous – a characteristic which gained him many acquaintances well beyond the usual climbing circles. In the autumn of 1886 Rey
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The third, fourth, and fifth ascents of the higher peak of the Dru over four consecutive days. One of these ascents, with W.E. Davidson, was made direct from
Montenvert without an overnight stop beforehand. It was also made totally unaided by fixed ropes or ladders, a feat that impressed the first
579:
In August 1880 Émile Rey and
Andreas Maurer were guiding an English 'climber', who wanted to reach the summit of the Aiguille du Plan by means of the steep ice slopes above the Chamonix Valley. After step-cutting all day, they reached a point where to go on was impossible, and retreat looked
464:
On 16 August 1892 he made the first ascent of the 'variant Güssfeldt', marking the fourth ascent of the Brenva ridge route onto Mont Blanc, with Paul
Gussfeldt, Laurent Croux and Michel Savoye. During this ascent Gussfeldt's ice axe fell into the dangerous couloir which nowadays bears his
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in the company of the observer and his two assistants. Cunningham later observed that Rey was known to have referred to their trip up Ben Nevis more frequently than some of his other great achievements in the Alps. Whilst in
Scotland Rey also visited Edinburgh where he went to the top of
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A memorial tablet to Rey, figuring a coiled rope and ice axe, stood in the Piazza Abbé Henry in Courmayeur until at least 1957. It was subsequently replaced with a monument containing a sculpted figure, showing him in a similar pose to that of his photograph, wearing his guide's hat.
229:'s Mittellegi ridge. They were thwarted by the difficult big step on that ridge which is nowadays adorned with a fixed rope strung from it, and which was finally climbed for the first time in 1925. Referring to their unsuccessful attempt, J. Baumann wrote about his guide's efforts:
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retained him for the greater part of the 1876 climbing season, and for the subsequent two seasons. In 1877 they made notable first ascents together of the Aiguille (Noire) de Peuterey, and Les Jumeaux de Valtournanche. However it was with two other clients, J. Baumann and
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The evolution of these expeditions, among the greatest ever carried out in the Alps, is exceedingly interesting, nor will the names of the greatest guides who rendered their employers such brilliant service be readily forgotten, least of all that of the Italian,
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His reputation as one of the first rock-climbers in the Alps, and the position he holds among other guides, are the result of his own aptitude and ability, the great enthusiasm he has for his profession, and the energy and earnestness with which he pursues
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which might have led to a "physical seizure" at an inopportune moment — he previously observed that Rey had not been displaying his usual good form or temperament. Another source later suggested the slip might have been "due to excessive and incorrect
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Writing about his life amongst the high alpine summits, Rey once said: "it is not the earnings that push me up to the peaks, it is the great passion I have for the mountains. I have always considered the payment secondary in my life as a guide."
194:" of the Alps was over. Unlike many of his contemporaries, he did not learn his craft by serving an apprenticeship with other, older guides. One British mountaineer wrote in detail about Rey's achievements in "Pioneers of the Alps" (1888)
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In the winter of 1884 Rey travelled to Britain where he spent some weeks with alpine mountaineer C. D. Cunningham in England. His trip included an intellectual afternoon visit to Madame Tussaud's in the company of the editor of the
286:. Balfour had invited Rey to join his party, but Rey declined, considering the snow to be in a dangerous condition. It was to be another three years later before Rey was involved in the first successful attempt to reach its summit.
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was said to have been devastated by the news. Rey was buried in Courmayeur, the form of his gravestone somewhat resembling that of the Dent du Géant, with an ice axe and rope hung over one corner. It bore the following epitaph:
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on 24 August 1895 with his client, A. Carson Roberts. They were unroped. Roberts subsequently wrote at very great length and detail about the events, suggested that Rey might have fallen because of some
218:, that Rey started to make his name as one of the most skillful and boldest rock-climbers in the Alps. Not all of their attempts at bold new routes were successful, including their attempt at the
682:, all of whom had climbed with this guide. In a short obituary in the Alpine Journal, Güssfeldt described Rey as "the great guide of Courmayeur is generally felt as an irreparable loss".
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NW Ridge, via Col du Mont Maudit. First climbed (in descent) with George Morse, after a celebratory 50th birthday ascent for Rey of Mont Blanc, on 21 August. He was killed three days later.
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Another unsuccessful, but nevertheless very bold early attempt took place in 1881 when J. Baumann, Rey, and his two fellow guides, Johann Juan and J. Maurer, attempted to climb the
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used at that time by mountaineers to reach more easily the high summits. These huts included the refuges of the Grand Paradis, Col du Géant, Aiguilles Grises and Grandes Jorasses.
151:, he was one of the most renowned guides at the end of the 19th century, making many first ascents on some of the highest and most difficult mountains in the
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Rey alone and unroped succeeded in turning a very difficult overhanging rock, and proceeded along the arete to a point which has never before been reached.
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1879: First ascent of the Aiguille de Talèfre (3,730 m) with Johan Baumann, F. J. Cullinan, G. Fitzgerald, Joseph Moser and Laurent Lanier on 25 August.
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on the series of audacious first ascents and new routes that had recently taken place on the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, the soldier and mountaineer,
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Rey was married to Faustina Vercelin and had sons Adolphe and Henri, the eldest, and a grandson, Emile. He was evidently very proud of his children.
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It bears the words "Emile Rey, 1846–1895, Prince Des Guides". It stands between monuments to two other alpine guides from Courmayeur,
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where on 11 February after a spell of bad weather, Rey, Cunningham and a local man, John Cameron, made a winter ascent to the top of
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Amongst the wreaths left at his funeral were those from some of the famous names in the annals of alpine mountaineering, including
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became an important venue for his mountaineering exploits, and he had many regular wealthy clients from across Europe, including
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determination to succeed, he was always prepared to draw the line "when foolhardiness was about to take the place of courage".
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The first offer that Rey received of a long-term engagement as a guide came only after he had reached the age of thirty, when
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Rey's first major achievement as a mountaineer and guide came in 1877 when he successfully made the first ever ascent of the
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with Katharine Richardson and Jean-Baptiste Bich on 30 August (with assistance from guides positioned at Grand Dru).
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1888: First winter traverse of Mont Blanc from the Italian side, with Alessandro, Corradino, Erminio and
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1880: First ascent of the Col de Peuterey with Georg Gruber and Pierre Revel, the Freney, August 13.
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Mont-Blanc Jardin féerique + Historique des Ascensions du Mont-Blanc, Établi par Alex Lucchesi
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The Aiguille du Plan from La Flégère, showing the Glacier du Plan descending from its summit
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The Brouillard ridge, with labels showing the Col Emile Rey and other significant features
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1234:
Russel, C.A. (1979). "One hundred years ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal)".
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with Henry Seymour King and guides Ambros Supersaxo and Alois Andenmatten on 31 July.
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Rey was killed in a fall whilst descending the lower, easy rocks at the base of the
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1883: First ascent of the Lower Peak of the Aiguille du Midi, with C. D. Cunningham.
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Jones, H.O. (May 1911). "Some Climbs on the South Side of Mt. Blanc, addendum to".
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The Col Emile Rey (4030 m), located on the Italian side of Mont Blanc (between
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1473:"Enrico Rey con il figlio Piero davanti al monumento in memoria di Emile Rey"
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183:), and is known to have contributed to the construction of a number of the
159:. He has been described as "one of the greatest guides of his generation."
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True Tales of Mountain Adventure: For Non-Climbers Young and Old (1903)
167:Émile Rey was born and lived his life in La Saxe, a small hamlet near
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1349:"Alpine Guides: A Story of Love and Responsibility for the Mountains"
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A Mountaineering Holiday: An Outstanding Alpine Climbing Season, 1939
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1038:"Ritratto di Faustina Vercelin, moglie della famosa guida Emile Rey"
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to the Petit Dru with Henri Dunod and François Simond on 31 August.
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1882: First ascent of the Calotte de Rochefort, the main summit of
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True Tales of Mountain Adventure: For Non-Climbers Young and Old
333:(1878–1969) went on to become a mountain guide like his father.
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1285:"One Hundred Years ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal)"
1251:"One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal)"
1206:"One Hundred Years Ago (With extracts from the Alpine Journal)"
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Other significant ascents with which Rey was involved include:
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In 1882, Rey was leader of a team that retrieved the bodies of
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1633:Émile Rey Residence (now accessible as holiday accommodation)
282:, who together had attempted to make the first ascent of the
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Rey's career as a mountain guide did not begin until the "
1562:. Milano: Club Alpino Italiano e Touring Club Italiano.
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Chabod, Renato; Grivel, Lorenzo; Saglio, Silvio (1963).
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and Cesar Ollier. Four-day climb from 14 to 17 August.
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North Face (in descent) with Katharine Richardson and
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Güssfeldt, Paul (1895). "Correspondence. Emile Rey".
717:), is named in Rey's honour. Described as "a superb
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The account below is extracted almost verbatim from
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He made more than a dozen first ascents, including:
1525:"Courmayeur, Giuseppe Petigax & Emile Rey 2015"
966:Tenderini, Mirella; Shandrick, Michael (May 1997).
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1103:Unjustifiable Risk?: The Story of British Climbing
471:Gran Paradiso from the glacier of the Tribulation.
27:Italian mountain guide and mountaineer (1846-1895)
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1315:"Review of .An Epitome of Fifty Years Climbing"
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461:, who had spent innumerable hours on the route.
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1658:Mountain climbers from the Kingdom of Sardinia
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139:(August 1846 — 24 August 1895) was an alpine
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938:Dumler, Helmut; Burkhardt, Willi P. (1994).
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969:The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer's Life
832:. Dorling Kindersley Limited. p. 156.
685:Forty years after Rey's death, mountaineer
468:1877: First traverse of the Grands Charmoz.
404:1889: First traverse from Petit Dru to the
299:, who was later to become president of the
147:in Italy. Dubbed "the Prince of Guides" in
1628:Col Émile Rey on French IGN mapping portal
1602:Cunningham, C.D.; Abney, W. de W. (1888).
1505:. Roberto Figueredo Simonetti. 4 July 2008
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876:Cunningham, C.D.; Abney, W. de W. (1888).
617:of his boots". On hearing of Rey's death,
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1403:"Untitled article on history of crampons"
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722:four years to the day after Rey's death.
1591:« Émile Rey ». pp. 54–55.
999:. Boston: L.C.Page & Co. p. 238
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619:Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi
474:Dent d'Hérens to the crest Tiefenmatten.
422:1893: First ascent of Mont Blanc by the
269:Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi
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513:work together with the Oberland guide.
508:Rey is known to have spent a winter in
1499:"Emile Rey e Mario Puchoz, Courmayeur"
657:FATALMENTE CADUTO AL DENTE DEL GIGANTE
1068:"Aiguilles: The Tragedy of Emile Rey"
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393:1888: New route to Mont Blanc by the
353:) and Jean-Baptiste Bich on 5 August.
349:with Lord Wentworth (the grandson of
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691:the greatest guide of his generation
401:and Jean-Baptiste Bich on 13 August.
379:1887: First traverse of the Grand
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993:Matthews, Charles Edward (1900).
488:literary magazine and a visit to
247:The Mittellegi ridge on the Eiger
89:Mountain guide, joiner, carpenter
1161:Chabod, Grivel & Saglio 1963
942:(1st ed.). London: Diadem.
910:. The Alpine Club. p. 133.
798:(TBC ed.). TBC. p. ?.
1618:which is in the public domain.
1066:Roberts, A. Carson (May 1936).
106:First ascents around Courmayeur
1600:Portions of the text are from
940:The High Mountains of the Alps
761:"A Winter's Day at Courmayeur"
1:
1373:Le Blond, Mrs Aubrey (1903).
222:from the Plan des Aiguilles.
1183:(in French). Paris: Denoël.
426:and the Peuterey Ridge with
374:Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
284:Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
119:Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
632:GUIDA ITALIANA VALENTISSIMA
449:1879: Second ascent of the
130:Updated on 19 December 2015
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1138:Mont Blanc Massif Volume 1
824:Royal Geographical Society
585:Mrs Aubrey Le Blond, 1903.
372:1885: First ascent of the
347:Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
345:1877: First ascent of the
261:Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed
253:Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
115:Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
1663:Italian mountain climbers
1313:Graham Brown, T. (1933).
1136:Griffin, Lindsay (1990).
1100:Thompson, Simon (2012) .
908:Mont Blanc Range Volume 1
559:Survival against the odds
129:
125:
93:
37:
1605:The Pioneers of the Alps
1560:Guida dei Monti d'Italia
1353:www.ecodelledolomiti.net
879:The Pioneers of the Alps
652:DI ARDIMENTI DI PRUDENZA
642:IN LUNGA SERIA D'IMPRESE
637:AMATO DEI SUOI ALPINISTI
627:IN MEMORIA DI EMILIO REY
366:, with C. D. Cunningham.
276:Francis Maitland Balfour
1589:Oxford University Press
1140:. London: Alpine Club.
906:Collomb, Robin (1976).
1673:People from Courmayeur
1283:Russell, C.A. (1984).
1249:Russell, C.A. (1992).
1204:Russell, C.A. (1988).
996:The Annals of Mt Blanc
972:. Mountaineers Books.
792:Smythe, Frank (1940).
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395:Aiguille de Bionnassay
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1477:dimensionmontagne.org
1042:dimensionmontagne.org
759:Gos, Charles (1937).
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545:C.D. Cunningham, 1888
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192:great age of conquest
171:. By trade, he was a
121:, Aiguille de Talèfre
58:La Saxe, Courmayeur,
1556:Monte Bianco, vol. I
1479:. Dimension Montagne
1044:. Dimension Mantagne
672:Katharine Richardson
522:was climbing on the
399:Katharine Richardson
204:C.D. Cunningham 1888
47:Personal information
1583:Scott, Doug (1974)
535:years, wrote thus:
60:Kingdom of Sardinia
34:
1529:www.summitpost.org
1452:www.camptocamp.org
1322:The Alpine Journal
1292:The Alpine Journal
1258:The Alpine Journal
1236:The Alpine Journal
1213:The Alpine Journal
1075:The Alpine Journal
1020:The Alpine Journal
768:The Alpine Journal
715:Picco Luigi Amedeo
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689:described him as "
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486:Nineteenth Century
417:Jean Baptiste Bich
289:Commenting in the
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117:, Peuterey Ridge,
1585:Big Wall Climbing
1347:Maestri, Cesare.
1113:978-1-85284-627-5
662:IL 24 AGOSTO 1895
599:The Dent du Géant
432:Christian Klucker
216:John Oakley Maund
153:Mont Blanc massif
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74:(aged 48–49)
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591:Death and legacy
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1596:Acknowledgement
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1578:Further reading
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1612:22 November
1548:Works cited
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1026:(192): 520.
1003:16 November
886:22 November
774:12 November
524:Schreckhorn
517:Personality
439:Mont Maudit
327: [
324:Adolphe Rey
301:Alpine Club
185:alpine huts
55:August 1846
1642:Categories
1238:: 204–210.
1147:0900523573
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615:hobnailing
459:C. T. Dent
351:Lord Byron
257:Mont Blanc
169:Courmayeur
149:Courmayeur
1215:: 207–212
1179:(1987) .
1081:(252): 38
510:Meiringen
494:Ben Nevis
451:Grand Dru
406:Grand Dru
310:Émile Rey
303:, noted:
181:carpenter
173:menuisier
163:Biography
137:Émile Rey
103:Known for
32:Émile Rey
18:Emile Rey
1409:. Grivel
583:—
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490:Scotland
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697:Honours
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465:name.
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227:Eiger
143:from
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