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20:
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213:, a typical outer garment worn by the Khitan men is a narrow-sleeved, round-collar gown which falls just above the ankles, and opens from the waist down on both sides but not in the front and back; they also wear a belt around the hip area. The lapels of their outer garments appears to be right lapels crossing over the left, and they also fastened their lapels on the left under the arm. Dark colour such grey-green, grey-blue, brown and dark green were the preferred colour used.
373:
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235:(髡髮) according to Chinese texts. Khitan wore the long side fringes & shaved pates. Tomb murals of Khitan hairstyle show only some hair remaining near the neck and forehead with the rest of the head shaved. Only at the temples were hair left while the crown was shaven. The absence of Khitan clothes and hairstyles on a painting of riders previously identified as Khitan has lad to experts questioning their purported identity.
1606:
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502:. The outer jacket was worn over floor-length dress which was worn a short overskirt (which looked like an apron) on top. In Northern Liao mural tombs depictions, women who are dressed in Han style clothing are depicted in Tang dynasty fashion whereas in the Southern Liao murals, women dressed in Han style clothing are wearing Song-style clothing. The Song-style fashion for women consisted of long narrow skirts and
290:
228:. They also wore trousers and high-topped boots which were either bordered or rolled at the top. Khitan officials used gold ornamented ribbons to found their hair locks around their foreheads, covering their heads with felt hats according to the Ye Longli's Qidan Guozhi. Khitan wore felt hats, fur clothes and woollen cloth and the Liao emperor switched between Han and Khitan clothing.
389:
their long robe. Khitan women wore boots, including high boots. This form of left sided, cross-collared robe is depicted in the painting "Zuo Xie tu" (卓歇图) by Hu huai. The long sleeved outer robe which closes to the left is the most defining feature of the Kithan-style women clothing. King
Hyonjong of Goryeo had been said to have composed a poem in 1018 stating,
278:
1282:
498:-style clothes and Khitan clothes. Both Khitan women and Han Chinese women in the Liao wore the Han Chinese style Tang-Song dress. Tang-Song style clothing women clothing in Liao also included a long-sleeved, outer jacket with ample sleeves which could cropped or waist-length, was tied with sash in a bow below the breasts to create an
568:
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long sleeves, which was belted at the waist. This form of dress appeared to be multi-layered in order to keep warm as they lived in harsher climates in the northern regions. Those types of clothing are often depicted in the tombs painting in the
Kulunqi tombs which were most likely constructed for the
89:
culture; and under the influence of Tang dynasty culture, they started to include silk garments (e.g. jackets and robes) to their wardrobe and conform their clothing customs to the clothing customs of the Tang dynasty, thus fashioning themselves in Han
Chinese-style while maintaining some distinction
380:
Khitan-style clothing for women also existed and were often depicted in Liao tombs in settings associated with nomadic lifestyle and horseback-riding. Khitan women were skilled riders, and their clothing were well suited for riding and herding. The women Khitan-style clothing a long outer robe which
388:
Khitan women also wore tight-sleeved, cross-collared long robes which were mostly buttoned on the left side and were tied at the waist with a silk band. Fabric belt could also be tied just below the breasts level to close to their robes. Khitan women also wore skirts but they were mostly worn under
239:
males grew hair from their temples but shaved the crown of their heads. Khitan men might have differentiate between classes by wearing different patterns on their small braids hanging off their shaved foreheads. They wore the braids occasionally with a forehead fringe with some shaving off all the
385:, an elite clan in Liao. Fur caps also appeared to be worn. A Liao tomb found near Kulunqi village depicts a wedding ceremony of Liao princess and Khitan noblemen in a set of wall paintings; these wall paintings provide information about the Khitan's society, including Khitan's dress.
196:
In 1055 AD, the emperor decreed that all Khitan officials had to wear
Chinese-style clothing. After the Chongxi period (1032-1055), all court officials wore Han clothing in important rituals whereas the daily ceremonial dress remained the same as the one used in the Huitong period.
456:
men adopted and mixed or combined Han clothing with Khitan clothing with Khitan boots and Han clothes or wearing Khitan clothes. Han women on the other hand did not adopt Khitan dress and continued wearing Han dress. For example, the tomb of Hann Shixun (a man from distinguished
528:
477:
women were culture bearers, who generally preserved Han
Chinese culture and continued to wear the Han Chinese clothing which was worn prior to the conquest. In a tomb at Zhaitang, there are two female servants depicted standing by the doorway wearing Chinese clothing.
481:
From at least the Han dynasty, Non-Han women (regardless of their social status or cultural identity), who lived closed to the Han dynasty territories, often adopted Han-Chinese style clothing while their Non-Han men did not; this clothing trend can be seen in the
473:, where children and servants are depicted wearing Khitan hairstyles and Khitan-style clothing, while the woman who is standing behind the table is depicted in Han Chinese clothing. During the Liao dynasty, Han Chinese women living in the Southern Division and
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families (i.e. Han
Chinese of mixed origins or who have adopted some Khitan customs), for example the Zhang and Hann families, often depicts men dressed in Khitan clothing in corridors and antechambers while inner culture shows
651:
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Painting "Zuo Xie tu" (卓歇图) by Hu huai, ca. 10th century. On the left side of the painting, Khitan women are depicted wearing tight-sleeved robes with left opening. Khitan men are depicted wearing round collared
639:
133:, the gongfu (i.e. Khitan state official dress) was purple in colour; the colour purple was used in the robes of both Liao officials and the Liao emperor as a standard practice. According to the Liao shi, "
301:
171:). After 970 AD, it was decreed that all top Khitan officials had to be dressed in Chinese style clothing while the lower officials of Khitan origins had to continue to wear their native dress for the
341:
540:
191:
According to the record of the zunhao ceremony 尊號冊禮 in the 5th year of
Chongxi 重熙 , following the Emperor wore the dragon robe and the officials from both the north and south wore court dress...
90:
in their attire. According to scholar Linda Cooke
Johnson, by the 11th century AD, Chinese influences dating from Tang dynasty period appears to have been thoroughly integrated in the Liao culture.
180:
After the fifth year of the
Qianheng 乾亨reign when the Shengzong 聖宗 Emperor conferred the title of Empress Dowager on Chengtian, all of the officials above 3rd rank wore Han-style formal dress
1260:. Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.), Princeton University. Art Museum, Kuo li ku kung po wu yüan, Guo li gu gong bo wu yuan. Art Museum, Princeton University. pp. 168, 159, 179.
1502:
1931:
534:
Women possibly wearing shanqun (upper garment over skirt) and beizi (Song-style clothing), inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang
Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty. The hairstyle is Khitan-style.
627:
615:
522:, 1058-1093 AD. Children and servants wear Khitan-style clothing and hairstyle; the standing women wears Han Chinese clothing. The hairstyle of the women is Khitan-style.
329:
1208:. Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu. San Francisco, CA: China Books & Periodicals. 1987. pp. 130–135.
135:
The system for official dress was regulated. The Khitan style was worn in the north, and the Han style worn in the south; each was determined according to convenience
178:
After 983 AD, the court dress which follows the Tang-Song style was worn at both Liao courts, i.e. in both Northern and Southern courts. According to the Liao shi, "
154:
During the Huitong 會同 period the Empress Dowager and Northern officials wore Khitan state- style dress; the Emperor and southern officials wore Han-style dress...
240:
forehead. Khitan men left only two separate patches of hair on each of the forehead's sides in front of each ear in tresses while they shaved the top of their head.
1949:
1495:
1402:
1459:. University of Hawaii at Manoa. Center for Chinese Studies. University of Hawaiʻi, Center for Chinese Studies and University of Hawaii Press. 2012. p. 101.
1287:. Asia Society, Asia Society. Museum, Museum für Ostasiatische Kunst (Berlin, Germany), Museum Rietberg (illustrated ed.). Harry N. Abrams. p. 114.
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and other sedentary groups. The rulers of the Liao dynasty adopted a clothing system which allowed the coexistence of Han and Khitan clothing.
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137:" during the reign of Abaoji; however, the types of clothing worn were not always based on this northern vs southern division.
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1265:
265:
50:. The Northern divisions of Liao was mainly composed of tribal Khitan people while the Southern regions was composed of the
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were not required to wear the shaved Khitan hairstyle which Khitan men wore to distinguish their ethnicity, unlike the
1643:
690:
1976:
1954:
1585:
1470:
1237:
144:, Khitan officials and the Liao empresses wore Khitan clothes, but the Han Chinese officials and Liao emperor wore
114:
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2002:
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1971:
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77:, the earliest clothing worn by the Khitan used to made with animal hides, and it is only during the reign of
1454:
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78:
216:
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1992:
1370:
A Chinese traveler in medieval Korea : Xu Jing's illustrated account of the Xuanhe embassy to Koryo
19:
958:"The Wedding Ceremony for an Imperial Liao Princess. Wall Paintings from a Liao Dynasty Tomb in Jilin"
109:(漢服; Han Chinese clothing) (which are basically Tang and/or Song dynasty-style clothing), which the
62:
2007:
1705:
506:. These jackets could be worn over the narrow skirts, which was a contemporary Song style fashion.
372:
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and officials in the North and South wore court dress of Han-style. According to Liao shi, "
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1921:
1916:
1900:
1895:
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1885:
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969:
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A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties
873:
277:
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1343:
The Origins of the Chinese Nation: Song China and the Forging of an East Asian World Order
1103:
130:
470:
466:
1605:
1314:. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (illustrated ed.). Museum of Fine Arts. p. 136.
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1147:"Some Liao Tomb Murals and Images of Nomads in Chinese Paintings of the Wen-Chi Story"
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is seen in the painting found in the inner chamber. Another example can be seen in a
236:
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110:
35:
440:, there are tombs murals which depicts purely Chinese customs and Chinese clothing.
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China among equals : the Middle Kingdom and its neighbors, 10th-14th centuries
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Women of the conquest dynasties : gender and identity in Liao and Jin China
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that an apparel system was developed. Culturally, the Khitan was closer to the
1122:
916:
Zhu, Ruixi; Zhang, Bangwei; Liu, Fusheng; Cai, Chongbang; Wang, Zenyu (2016).
877:
224:
The inner garment of Khitan's man was a short garment or tunic worn under the
156:". However, in the opinion of the Song Chinese, their garments were closed in
1388:
1170:
1104:"Intentional Identities: Liao Women's Dress and Cultural and Political Power"
981:
937:
885:
837:
783:
727:
46:(AD 916–1125) in northern China. The Liao dynasty comprised two regions: the
1223:
1437:
1031:
712:"Liao Archaeology: Tombs and Ideology along the Northern Frontier of China"
1368:
1041:
917:
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391:"Had it not been for Kang, evermore would our coats on the left be bound",
93:
The Khitan court adopted a dual dress system, which consisted of both the
1203:
922:. Cambridge, United Kingdom: Cambridge University Press. pp. 32–59.
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was also heavily influenced by the Han Chinese clothing system. In the
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Women wearing Tang-style clothing; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of
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Women wearing Tang-style clothing; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of
1690:
256:
1162:
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862:""Liao Architecture": Qidan Innovations and Han-Chinese Traditions?"
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A form of Tang-Song style clothing; Xu Congyun's Tomb, Liao dynasty.
323:
Liao men preparing for hunt, mural from tomb of Aohan, Lian dynasty.
1257:
Arts of the Sung and Yüan: Ritual, Ethnicity, and Style in Painting
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Women wearing Tang-style clothing; Baoshan Tomb No.2, Liao dynasty.
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depictions, and this trend continued until the Mongol period. The
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61:
18:
765:
The age of Confucian rule : the Song transformation of China
157:
1484:
768:. Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press.
1311:
Tales from the Land of Dragons: 1000 Years of Chinese Painting
461:
families) who died in the early 12th century during the late
1033:
Mongol Court Dress, Identity Formation, and Global Exchange
432:
which mandated wearing of the Manchu hairstyle for men. In
420:
Men depicted in the Fresco of Xu Congyun's Tomb, North Part
376:
Women depicted in the Halahaichang (哈拉海場) Liao tomb mural.
167:), closing on the left side instead of the right side (右衽
1422:. Berkeley: University of California Press. p. 158.
518:
Mural painting from the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng (M10),
465:
depict Khitan-style clothing in the antechamber whereas
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Preparing drinks, Mural from Tomb in Aohan, Liao Dynasty
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when Kang Kamch'an won against the invading Khitans.
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1714:
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1254:Liu, Cary Yee-Wei; Ching, Dora C. Y., eds. (1999).
1284:Gilded Splendor: Treasures of China's Liao Empire
609:Imperial women's robe (back view), Liao dynasty.
471:mural painting found in the tomb of Zhao Wenzao
1496:
657:Kesi boots for court officials, Liao dynasty.
307:A Khitan man hairstyle, Beisanjia Tomb No.1,
148:clothes (Han Chinese clothing); according to
8:
645:Kesi boots for Imperial family, Liao dynasty
1346:. Cambridge University Press. p. 241.
1503:
1489:
1481:
1401:: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (
368:People depicted in Halahaichang Liao tomb.
822:. Honolulu: University of Hawaiʻi Press.
621:Silver crown with phoenix, Liao dynasty.
363:
335:Liao cooks, Tomb in Aohan, Liao dynasty.
215:
175:(大射柳; dasheliu) when praying for rain.
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1549:Prehistory of nakedness and clothing
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117:and were actually clothing from the
710:STEINHARDT, NANCY SHATZMAN (1998).
467:women in Han Chinese-style clothing
58:Development of dual clothing system
424:The Han Chinese men living in the
231:Kithan's men hairstyle was called
173:Great Willowtree Shooting ceremony
14:
504:jackets which closes to the right
185:In 1036 AD, the Emperor wore the
1604:
1525:History of clothing and textiles
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1932:impact of the COVID-19 pandemic
1145:Rorex, Robert Albright (1984).
48:Northern and Southern Divisions
1308:Tung, W. U.; Tung, Wu (1997).
1205:5000 years of Chinese costumes
205:Based on mural paintings from
1:
1281:Shen, Hsueh-man, ed. (2006).
1102:SHEA, Eiren L. (2021-12-15).
1030:Shea, Eiren L. (2020-02-05).
956:Johnson, Linda Cooke (1983).
816:Johnson, Linda Cooke (2011).
452:culture. Some Han Chinese or
1373:. Sem Vermeersch. Honolulu.
669:Child's shoes, Liao dynasty.
359:Halahaichang Liao tomb mural
1848:1920s–1950s Western fashion
1778:1830s–1910s Western fashion
1715:1500s–1820s Western fashion
691:Fashion in the Yuan dynasty
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97:(國服; "State-style", i.e. "
38:, a branch of the Eastern
2039:History of Asian clothing
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1530:History of fashion design
1519:
1340:Tackett, Nicolas (2017).
1123:10.22679/AVS.2021.6.2.003
878:10.1163/15685320051072744
99:Khitan National garments"
1855:Suffrage Movement period
1416:Rossabi, Morris (1983).
633:Silk belt, Liao dynasty.
220:Liao Khitan Hair styles
1514:of clothing and fashion
79:Emperor Taizong of Liao
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30:After the fall of the
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1943:By country and region
1042:10.4324/9780429340659
860:Kuhn, Dieter (2000).
762:Kuhn, Dieter (2009).
490:had both Han Chinese
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271:Liao horsemen at rest
257:Emperor Taizu of Liao
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1910:2000–present fashion
406:Han Chinese clothing
255:, the eldest son of
42:tribes, established
16:Liao dynasty fashion
1950:Indian subcontinent
1879:1960s-1990s fashion
113:inherited from the
716:Asian Perspectives
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2016:
2015:
1380:978-0-8248-6683-9
1367:Xu, Jing (2016).
1051:978-0-429-34065-9
929:978-1-107-16786-5
829:978-0-8248-6024-0
775:978-0-674-03146-3
500:empire silhouette
434:Han Chinese tombs
295:A Kara-Khitai man
226:round-collar gown
209:tombs during the
115:Later Jin dynasty
85:culture than the
73:According to the
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1128:
1065:
1050:
995:
943:
928:
899:
843:
828:
789:
774:
741:
722:(2): 224–244.
701:
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688:
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676:
673:
672:
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661:
659:
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407:
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59:
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15:
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3:
2:
2051:
2040:
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2027:
2026:
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2009:
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1991:
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1984:
1978:
1977:Western world
1975:
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1966:
1963:
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1958:
1956:
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1941:
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1429:0-520-04383-9
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1215:0-8351-1822-3
1211:
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1199:
1197:
1195:
1193:
1191:
1189:
1185:
1180:
1176:
1172:
1168:
1164:
1160:
1156:
1152:
1151:Artibus Asiae
1148:
1141:
1139:
1137:
1135:
1133:
1129:
1124:
1120:
1116:
1112:
1105:
1098:
1096:
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1090:
1088:
1086:
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1078:
1076:
1074:
1072:
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1066:
1061:
1057:
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1043:
1039:
1036:. Routledge.
1035:
1034:
1026:
1024:
1022:
1020:
1018:
1016:
1014:
1012:
1010:
1008:
1006:
1004:
1002:
1000:
996:
991:
987:
983:
979:
975:
971:
967:
963:
962:Artibus Asiae
959:
952:
950:
948:
944:
939:
935:
931:
925:
921:
920:
912:
910:
908:
906:
904:
900:
895:
891:
887:
883:
879:
875:
871:
867:
863:
856:
854:
852:
850:
848:
844:
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835:
831:
825:
821:
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802:
800:
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790:
785:
781:
777:
771:
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766:
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748:
746:
742:
737:
733:
729:
725:
721:
717:
713:
706:
703:
696:
692:
689:
687:
686:Khitan people
684:
682:
679:
678:
674:
665:
660:
653:
648:
641:
636:
629:
624:
617:
612:
605:
600:
595:
586:
581:
577:
570:
565:
561:
554:
549:
542:
537:
530:
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279:
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176:
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147:
143:
138:
136:
132:
128:
124:
120:
116:
112:
108:
104:
100:
96:
91:
88:
84:
80:
76:
69:jade necklace
68:
64:
57:
55:
53:
49:
45:
41:
37:
33:
26:
21:
2029:Liao dynasty
1633:
1455:
1418:
1411:
1369:
1362:
1342:
1310:
1303:
1283:
1276:
1256:
1204:
1154:
1150:
1117:(2): 37–60.
1114:
1110:
1032:
965:
961:
918:
869:
865:
818:
764:
719:
715:
705:
681:Liao dynasty
576:Liao dynasty
560:Liao dynasty
520:Liao dynasty
496:Song dynasty
484:Tang dynasty
480:
474:
463:Liao dynasty
458:
453:
449:
444:
442:
438:Liao dynasty
436:dating from
430:Qing dynasty
426:Liao dynasty
423:
390:
387:
379:
309:Liao dynasty
232:
230:
223:
211:Liao dynasty
204:
195:
190:
184:
179:
177:
172:
168:
164:
158:
153:
149:
146:Song dynasty
142:Liao dynasty
139:
134:
127:Liao dynasty
122:
119:Tang dynasty
103:Khitan state
102:
98:
94:
92:
87:Song dynasty
83:Tang dynasty
74:
72:
67:Liao dynasty
44:Liao dynasty
32:Tang dynasty
29:
25:Liao dynasty
1986:By clothing
1649:Western Xia
1639:Jurchen Jin
1621:Anglo-Saxon
1614:Middle Ages
1559:Han Chinese
187:dragon robe
2023:Categories
1706:Vietnamese
1664:400s–1000s
1321:0878464395
1294:8874393326
1267:0943012309
866:T'oung Pao
697:References
410:See also:
1870:1945–1960
1865:1930–1945
1827:Edwardian
1785:Victorian
1757:1795–1820
1752:1775–1795
1747:1750–1775
1742:1700–1750
1737:1650–1700
1732:1600–1650
1727:1550–1600
1722:1500–1550
1701:Tocharian
1626:Byzantine
1465:cite book
1397:cite book
1389:950971983
1232:cite book
1171:0004-3648
1060:213078710
982:0004-3648
938:953576345
886:0082-5433
838:794925381
784:192050158
728:0066-8435
443:Tombs in
383:Xiao clan
159:barbarian
2008:Swimwear
1972:Thailand
1630:Chinese
1596:Thracian
1581:Biblical
1571:Egyptian
1512:Timeline
1224:19814728
736:42928436
675:See also
253:Yelü Bei
150:Liao shi
131:Liao shi
1696:Ottoman
1660:Europe
1656:English
1541:Ancient
1438:7671639
1179:3249729
990:3249594
894:4528851
596:Gallery
161:fashion
140:In the
125:of the
40:Xianbei
36:Khitans
1998:Corset
1993:Bikini
1691:Korean
1436:
1426:
1387:
1377:
1350:
1318:
1291:
1264:
1222:
1212:
1177:
1169:
1058:
1048:
988:
980:
936:
926:
892:
884:
836:
826:
782:
772:
734:
726:
401:robes.
237:Khitan
207:Khitan
169:youren
165:zuoren
121:. The
111:Khitan
34:, the
1965:Meiji
1960:Japan
1955:Italy
1927:2020s
1922:2010s
1917:2000s
1901:1990s
1896:1980s
1891:1970s
1886:1960s
1860:1920s
1837:1910s
1832:1900s
1820:1890s
1815:1880s
1810:1870s
1805:1860s
1800:1850s
1795:1840s
1790:1830s
1769:1820s
1684:1400s
1679:1300s
1674:1200s
1669:1100s
1591:Roman
1586:Greek
1576:Inuit
1554:China
1175:JSTOR
1107:(PDF)
1056:S2CID
986:JSTOR
890:JSTOR
732:JSTOR
475:Haner
459:haner
454:Haner
450:haner
445:haner
412:Hanfu
233:kunfa
123:guofu
107:hanfu
95:guofu
2003:Hide
1644:Yuan
1634:Liao
1471:link
1434:OCLC
1424:ISBN
1403:link
1385:OCLC
1375:ISBN
1348:ISBN
1316:ISBN
1289:ISBN
1262:ISBN
1238:link
1220:OCLC
1210:ISBN
1167:ISSN
1046:ISBN
978:ISSN
934:OCLC
924:ISBN
882:ISSN
834:OCLC
824:ISBN
780:OCLC
770:ISBN
724:ISSN
494:and
492:Tang
488:Liao
182:".
163:(左衽
101:or "
1564:Shu
1159:doi
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