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709:{{Information |Description={{en|1=A particle motion in an ocean wave. '''A'''=At deep water.<br> '''B'''=At shallow water. The circular movement of a surface particle becomes eliptical with increasing depth<br> '''1'''=Progression of wave<br> '''2'''=Cres
679:{{Information |Description={{en|1=A particle motion in an ocean wave. '''A'''=At deep water.<br> '''B'''=At shallow water. The circular movement of a surface particle becomes eliptical with increasing depth<br> '''1'''=Progression of wave<br> '''2'''=Cres
649:{{Information |Description={{en|1=A particle motion in an ocean wave. '''A'''=At deep water.<br> '''B'''=At shallow water. The circular movement of a surface particle becomes eliptical with increasing depth<br> '''1'''=Progression of wave<br> '''2'''=Cres
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changed orbital motion at the free surface into elliptical, in accordance with Airy wave theory
149:=At shallow water. The elliptical movement of a surface particle flattens with increasing depth
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Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the
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Scienze della Terra per le superiori/I movimenti delle acque oceaniche
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