213:. The expedition began in March 1950, with the actual ascent of Annapurna 1 beginning in May. During the ascent, a base camp and four intermediate camps were set up, with the highest being about 7400 meters in altitude. The summit itself was completed on 3 June 1950 by Herzog and Lachenal. While traveling down from the top camp, the four mountaineers were unable to locate the next camp and were forced to spend the night in a crevasse. All members survived the expedition, but Herzog and Lachenal later lost several fingers and toes due to severe frostbite. Although Rébuffat did not summit the mountain, he was instrumental in ensuring his injured colleagues returned safely. The expedition is known to be the first ascent of any mountain over 8000 meters and was the highest mountain climb ever at the time.
143:: "Each winter I found myself impatiently awaiting July. At last, the day would come for departure to Ailefroide or Chamonix. There I would spend a few days on the tops, only to return and wait for another year. Then one day, deciding that I must live among the mountains, I became a guide." In 1945, Rébuffat left his position at the ENSA to become a mountain guide in the Alps. Throughout his career, he guided many climbers and mountaineers, both new and experienced, up the mountains of the Alps. By the 1950s he was known as one of the foremost experts on the
128:, Gaston Rébuffat attended Jeunesse et Montagne, a French youth training organization. He graduated in 1942, earning his mountain guide certification at the age of 21, despite the minimum age for certification being 23. He continued as an instructor for Jeunesse et Montagne, until, in 1944, he became an instructor for the French National Ski and Mountaineering School (ENSA) as well as the
171:, during which he acted as a mountain guide for an amateur mountaineer. By this time, Rébuffat was among a handful of elite mountaineers to have climbed these faces. This led to his selection as one of the principal members of the 1950 Annapurna expedition. Over the next several years, he guided mountaineers, both new and experienced, up the remaining great north faces, the
167:, Gino Esposito, and Ugo Tizzoni. In 1943, Rébuffat made his first attempt at the summit but was not successful due to poor weather conditions. He returned to the mountain in July 1945 and successfully climbed the north face with the assistance of Édouard Frendo. In August 1949, he attempted and successfully completed an ascent of the northeast face of
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Known for his lyrical writing and his ability to convey not only the dangers of mountaineering but the pure exaltation of the climb, Rébuffat authored several books, many of which he published in his own publishing house. His most famous written work is
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In 1950, Gaston Rébuffat was part of an expedition to summit
Annapurna 1, the tallest point of the Annapurna Massif in the Himalayas and the tenth-highest peak in the world. The expedition was led by
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near
Marseilles. At the age of 16, he became a member of the Club Alpin Français (French Alpine Club), where he was introduced to high altitude mountaineering. There he met
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Rébuffat produced three colour films depicting himself and others climbing in the Alps. These are a testament to his skill as a climber, and his love of the mountains.
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for his service as a mountaineering instructor for the French military. At the age of 64, Gaston Rébuffat died of cancer in Paris, France. The
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After some time as an instructor, Rébuffat wanted to spend more time as a guide. He stated in his 1954 work
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Gaston Rébuffat was born on 7 May 1921 in
Marseilles, France. He began climbing at the age of 14 in the
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401:"Gaston Rébuffat, 1921-1985 - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents"
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Nicholas Kaye Ltd 1963 translated from the 1959 French
Edition published by EGI.
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75:", was named after him. A photo of Rébuffat atop the Aiguille du Roc in the
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One of Rébuffat's most famous accomplishments is his ascent of the six
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Starlight and Storm: The Ascent of six great North Faces of the Alps
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won the Grand Prix at the Trento Film
Festival in Trento, Italy.
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103:. He later moved to Chamonix, France and became a member of the
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Annapurna, first conquest of an 8000-meter peak (26,493 feet)
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Thames & Hudson, 1956. Translated from the French
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in the Alps, where he had set several routes himself.
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59:in 1950 and the first man to climb all six of the
307:The Mont Blanc Massif: The Hundred Finest Routes
63:. In 1984, he was made an officer in the French
515:Gaston Rébuffat : une vie pour la montagne
159:. He began planning for his first ascent, the
253:(with Gabriel M. Ollive) Arthaud, Paris 1957.
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603:: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (
342:with Maurice Baquet and Georges Tairraz 1955
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284:(with Pierre Tairraz). Kaye and W, 1970.
465:"Voyager - Images on the Golden Record"
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547:"Annapurna I - Northeast Face - 1950"
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488:Diaz, Jesus (13 March 2014).
303:Éditions Hoëbeke, Paris 1994.
278:Oxford University Press 1967.
157:great north faces of the Alps
130:High Mountain Military School
61:great north faces of the Alps
679:Bouldering technique: Gaston
647:"Perilous Assignment (1959)"
435:. New York: Modern Library.
348:with Pierre Tairraz 1960-61
301:La Montagne Est Mon Domaine
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431:Rébuffat, Gaston. (1999).
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371:Third Man on the Mountain
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282:Between Heaven and Earth
257:On Ice and Snow and Rock
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181:Cima Grande di Lavaredo
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517:. Paris: Ed. Hoëbeke.
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276:Men and the Matterhorn
272:Hachette, Paris, 1964.
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36:[ɡastɔ̃ʁebyfa]
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651:Turner Classic Movies
513:Ballu, Yves. (1996).
309:. Bâton Wicks, 2005.
241:Mont Blanc To Everest
101:1950 Annapurna ascent
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575:. New York: Dutton.
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378:References
183:, and the
177:Matterhorn
169:Piz Badile
87:Early life
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251:Calanques
191:Annapurna
173:Petit Dru
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