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small shelter. The remaining 1,000 feet (300 m) went very slowly because the thin air made breathing difficult; they had to stop every few steps to catch their breath. At about 1:30 P.M., they reached the summit of Denali, an elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m). They spent an hour and a half on the summit, during which Robert Tatum planted the
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After reading their instruments and calculating the altitude, they began their descent. In contrast to the 50-day journey up the mountain, the trip back to base camp took only two days. The expedition returned to Tanana on June 20, three months and four days after they left. While they were still at
372:
On June 6, the
Karstens-Stuck party made their final camp at an elevation of 18,000 feet (5,500 m). At the time, it was the highest camp ever established in North America. At 4:00 the next morning, the group left camp for their final attempt at the summit. Around noon, they stopped briefly in a
239:
on his back, usually in 50-pound packs. In winter, the ice leading to the summit was cut into 1500 steps, which travelers climbed in single file. Authorities required each "stampeder" (the persons intending to stay and mine) to bring in two tons of supplies to provide for himself for a year in the
357:
the previous summer. The expedition's progress slowed considerably while they maneuvered under, over, or sometimes through the debris. They camped on the ridge for three days, where temperatures ranged from 50 °F (10 °C) during the day to −21 °F (−29 °C) at night. It took them
406:, serving from 1921 to his resignation in October 1928. The park received no funds for administration until that year. During his tenure, Karstens developed improved infrastructure, such as roads in the park. He organized ranger patrols to reduce
282:. Stuck emphasized the financial value of the trip, saying, "if we succeed in the ascent, the expedition will not be without the likelihood of financial value, and that there will be return to you for the time and labour." Karstens accepted.
285:
While Stuck had been traveling in Alaska for several years for his work and had experience mountain climbing, Karstens had the greater experience, which he applied as guide to the small expedition. Its other members were
344:. While they were camping at the top of the glacier, a tent full of supplies and food was accidentally burned. It took three weeks for Harper and Fredson to go to and return from base camp to replace their supplies.
387:
on June 21. According to Tom Walker's 2013 biography of
Karstens, he and Stuck had a falling out a short time after the climb was completed, and cut off relations, Karstens even calling him an "absolute paresite
336:
After leaving Eureka, the terrain became rougher, and the expedition's pace slowed to about 10 miles (16 km) a day. At an elevation of 2,000 feet (610 m), the party established base camp near the
1007:
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valley. The first day, they hiked 30 miles (48 km) up the Tanana with two sleds of supplies pulled by fourteen dogs. The 110-mile (180 km) trip up the river to
358:
three weeks to dig a road three miles long through the blockage of materials in their path. The party the year before had passed this area easily before the earthquake.
377:
he had made earlier from red, white, and blue handkerchiefs. Tatum said, "The scenery was of indescribable beauty...It was like looking out of a window of heaven."
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In 1913, Stuck named the
Karstens Ridge in the guide's honor. It is located in Denali National Park, 4.5 miles (7.2 km) east of the summit of Denali.
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by hunting for meat and organizing supplies. (Fredson later became the first Alaska Native to graduate from college and was a lifelong leader of the
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347:
The next step was the northeast ridge (later named the
Karstens Ridge in the guide's honor). A previous expedition had called it "step [
353:], but practicable," so Karstens and Stuck were surprised to find huge chunks of rocks and ice in their path. These had been upturned by an
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of the mountain, where they encountered temperatures as low as −46 °F (−43 °C). They set off again, up the crevasse-filled, steep
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base camp, Stuck sent out a messenger to announce their success, claiming credit as leader of the expedition, and it was published in
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137:, from 1921 to 1928. He was the guide and climbing leader of the first complete ascent of Denali in 1913, with expedition members
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365:, they saw a flagstaff set up by Thomas Lloyd and three other men; his party had reached it three years earlier. Known as the "
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Highly recommended by
Charles Sheldon, Karstens was appointed as the first superintendent of the newly established
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220:, being paid $ 75 per month. He gained his nickname as the "Seventymile Kid" after working for the post office.
513:
394:] & liar." Karstens' role in the expedition became obscured, and Stuck received most of the publicity.
172:, Illinois on September 2, 1878. His parents were Emma Terveen and John Jacob Karstens, an immigrant from the
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278:, Episcopal Archdeacon of the Yukon, sent Karstens a letter inviting him to join an expedition to climb
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Expedition", Lloyd's party had found their achievement doubted because others had not witnessed it.
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named the
Karstens Col in his honor. The 10,930-foot (3,330 m) high pass is located between
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262:, successfully campaigned with Congress to have the area set aside as a national park. In 1917,
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563:"The Seventymile Kid: The Lost Legacy of Harry Karstens and the First Ascent of Mount McKinley"
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in 1897; he was nineteen. There, he mined on
Seventymile Creek and helped lay out the town of
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486:
The
Seventymile Kid: The Lost Legacy of Harry Karstens and the First Ascent of Mount McKinley
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of game. He also supervised the construction of cabins for use by the rangers, of which the
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Drawing on his skills developed on the frontier, from 1906 to 1908, Karstens accompanied
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819:"Ascending the Steep Roof of the Continent Just to 'Look Out the Windows of Heaven'"
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is an example. Built in 1931 after
Karstens had left, it has been listed on the
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After that, they climbed the upper glacier. Looking at the North Summit through
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1159:
The Ascent of Denali: The 1913 Expedition that First
Conquered Mt. McKinley
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Harry Karstens in 1927 as superintendent of Mount McKinley National Park.
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and Esias George, supported the party by managing its dog teams, and in
133:(September 2, 1878 – November 28, 1955) was the first superintendent of
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254:, a hunter, conservationist, and naturalist, on hunting trips into the
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took eight days; there, they replenished supplies and celebrated
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204:. He also carried freight and mail with Charles McGonagall via
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He also worked as a packer, hauling miners' supplies over the
184:. Harry was the fifth born of seven children in his family.
1138:. Pictorial Histories Publishing Company. pp. 42–45.
192:
Like many young men, Karstens went North for adventure to
706:"Hudson Stuck 1912 correspondence with Harry Karstens"
655:
A History of the Denali-Mount McKinley, Region, Alaska
827:. Knoxville, Tennessee: Denali 2013. Archived from
243:Karstens ran dog teams on the frontier, as well as
115:
110:
102:
84:
59:
49:
44:
266:was established as Mount McKinley National Park.
258:region. Sheldon, the chairman of the influential
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658:. Santa Fe, New Mexico: National Park Service
8:
931:"The Sourdough Expedition to Mount McKinley"
479:
477:
27:
1104:
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982:"An incredible sextet in Fairbanks, Alaska"
227:Miners and packers climb 1500 ice steps at
1008:"Henry P. Karstens Collection Description"
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812:
810:
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741:Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America
33:
26:
1081:Feature Detail Report for: Karstens Ridge
957:"New Elevation for Nation's Highest Peak"
1136:Kantishna: Miners, Mushers, Mountaineers
1117:United States Government Printing Office
620:Historic Houses of the Pacific Northwest
321:on March 17, 1913, and proceeded up the
294:, both 21 at the time. In addition, two
462:from the original on September 21, 2013
458:. The Karstens Library. July 29, 2008.
447:
1038:"National Register Information System"
984:. American Alpine Club. Archived from
505:
7:
1043:National Register of Historic Places
782:. Denali 2013: 34–35. Archived from
561:Wetherbee, Karina (April 19, 2013).
416:National Register of Historic Places
298:youths from Stuck's mission school,
1227:People from the Territory of Alaska
955:Newell, Mark (September 2, 2015).
533:Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs
25:
929:O'Flynn, Barry (September 2007).
860:"Dr. Stuck scales Mount M'Kinley"
817:Moutoux, John T. (May 22, 1932).
769:Campbell, Diana (February 2013).
153:and Esaias George were two young
1232:People of the Klondike Gold Rush
1112:Dictionary of Alaska Place Names
1073: This article incorporates
1068:
247:when the rivers were navigable.
1086:United States Geological Survey
412:Riley Creek Ranger Cabin No. 20
317:The expedition party left from
1134:Walker, Tom (2007). "Alaska".
652:Brown, William Edward (1991).
1:
1222:People from Fairbanks, Alaska
1183:at Dartmouth College Library
1181:The Papers of Henry Karstens
484:Walker, Tom (Jan 25, 2013).
208:among the frontier towns of
901:Alaska: Saga of a Bold Land
824:The Knoxville News-Sentinel
168:Harry Karstens was born in
1248:
1207:American mountain climbers
1012:UAA/APU Consortium Library
935:Irish Mountaineering Club
314:Indian Reserve in 1941).
160:who supported the party.
32:
1109:Orth, Donald J. (1967).
771:"A Granddaughter's Tale"
686:. National Park Service
456:"Karstens, Henry Peter"
438:and the Karstens Ridge.
260:Boone and Crockett Club
1075:public domain material
746:The Mountaineers Books
678:"Denali National Park"
617:Reece, Daphne (1983).
592:National Postal Museum
538:The Mountaineers Books
232:
1048:National Park Service
1018:on September 21, 2013
831:on September 25, 2013
789:on September 25, 2013
716:on September 20, 2013
226:
176:. His father owned a
1162:. Project Gutenberg.
748:. pp. 118–119.
710:American Alpine Club
512:: CS1 maint: year (
404:Denali National Park
264:Denali National Park
196:, Canada during the
135:Denali National Park
131:Henry Peter Karstens
45:Personal information
18:Henry Peter Karstens
1217:People from Chicago
896:Borneman, Walter R.
598:on January 20, 2013
274:On March 27, 1912,
29:
868:The New York Times
683:The National Parks
490:Mountaineers Books
384:The New York Times
233:
198:Klondike Gold Rush
1145:978-1-57510-124-8
1115:. Vol. 567.
959:(Press release).
915:978-0-06-186527-5
638:978-0-87701-272-6
547:978-1-59485-522-1
499:978-1-59485-729-4
432:Bradford Washburn
430:In 1946, climber
310:, founding their
270:Denali expedition
174:Duchy of Holstein
128:
127:
124:
96:Fairbanks, Alaska
88:November 28, 1955
70:September 2, 1878
16:(Redirected from
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54:Mountain climber
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308:Gwich'in people
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252:Charles Sheldon
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116:Notable ascents
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1089:. Retrieved
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1020:. Retrieved
1016:the original
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990:. Retrieved
986:the original
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964:. Retrieved
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938:. Retrieved
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873:. Retrieved
866:
833:. Retrieved
829:the original
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791:. Retrieved
784:the original
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736:Beckey, Fred
730:
718:. Retrieved
714:the original
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688:. Retrieved
681:
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660:. Retrieved
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612:
600:. Retrieved
596:the original
588:"The Trails"
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570:. Retrieved
567:Summit Daily
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464:. Retrieved
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323:Tanana River
316:
292:Robert Tatum
284:
276:Hudson Stuck
273:
256:Toklat River
249:
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191:
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151:John Fredson
147:Robert Tatum
139:Hudson Stuck
130:
129:
90:(1955-11-28)
1202:1955 deaths
1197:1878 births
436:Mount Koven
194:Dawson City
103:Nationality
1191:Categories
966:August 23,
627:. p.
443:References
398:Later life
388: [
355:earthquake
245:riverboats
178:feed store
164:Early life
66:1878-09-02
508:cite book
367:Sourdough
338:tree line
304:base camp
218:Kantishna
210:Fairbanks
206:dog teams
1156:(1918).
898:(2003).
738:(1993).
530:(1981).
460:Archived
408:poaching
296:Gwich'in
155:Gwich'in
106:American
78:Illinois
312:Venetie
240:camps.
170:Chicago
74:Chicago
1212:Denali
1142:
912:
779:Alaska
752:
635:
544:
496:
422:Legacy
331:Easter
327:Eureka
319:Nenana
280:Denali
214:Valdez
188:Career
182:livery
120:Denali
111:Career
1077:from
863:(PDF)
787:(PDF)
774:(PDF)
1140:ISBN
1093:2013
1056:2013
1024:2013
994:2013
968:2017
961:USGS
942:2013
910:ISBN
877:2013
837:2013
795:2013
750:ISBN
722:2013
692:2013
664:2013
633:ISBN
604:2013
574:2013
542:ISBN
514:link
494:ISBN
468:2013
290:and
216:and
180:and
145:and
85:Died
60:Born
418:.
391:sic
350:sic
1193::
1101:^
1084:.
1046:.
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Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
