222:, who sold off Herbert Johnson to a management buy-out team called the Response Group. In February 1990, as the Response Group went into receivership, Herbert Johnson was sold to its own management. The new company was headed by Anthony Marangos as chairman and managing director. He brought in new designers, notably Sylvia Fletcher, who gave the women's fashion side a new lease of life. Under his leadership the American milliner
217:
It was when the John
Crowther Group bought Herbert Johnson (Bond Street) Limited and Herbert Johnson (Sales) Limited that the firm was relocated to 30 New Bond Street, as the first stage of an ambitious plan to open other shops at home and abroad and set up a network of concessions within department
238:. Decorative millinery for women was soon discontinued in favour of sporting and hunting hats for men and women and smart dress hats for gentlemen, as well as hats for the military and other uniformed professions. This shift fitted well with Swaine Adeney Brigg's own approach.
36:
287:(1914–1918) much of the shop's business was taken up with hats for the military. Herbert Johnson devised a new cap with soft top that would be practical for field operations. This was adopted as the dress cap by many
209:
Robin Benson, whom the firm appointed as managing director in 1984, embarked on a programme of expansion based on the use of
Herbert Johnson as a brand name. The range of branded products grew to include
250:
makes clear, Herbert
Johnson's profession then was that of "Hatters' Shop Keeper". The firm's line of business was to design and commission headgear from hatters in London and the hatting workshops of
199:
When
Herbert retired in 1928 aged 72, he sold his interest to Edward Glazier, who turned the firm into a private limited company in 1929, registering the firm as Herbert Johnson (Bond Street) Limited.
202:
In 1975, the firm of
Herbert Johnson was forced to leave its old premises at 38 New Bond Street, owing to a proposed rent increase from about £3,500 a year to almost £35,000. A new shop opened at 13
116:
Herbert Lewis
Johnson (1856–1942); Edward John Glazier (1846–1939); Geoffrey John Glazier (1899–1950); Maxwell Henry Glazier (1907–1984); Timothy Glazier (1934–2009); Robin Benson; Anthony Marangos
627:
Prior, p. 129. Several racing helmets by
Herbert Johnson have since been sold at auction, among them that worn by F. W. Carr, the MG racing driver at Brooklands in the 1930s and that worn by
196:. This was achieved with financial backing and practical help from Edward John Glazier (1864–1939). Herbert Johnson moved to 38 New Bond Street in 1895, where the firm traded until 1975.
660:
paperback, 2016), averred: "Without much doubt, Indiana Jones's famous fedora is the single most significant dress element of the quintessential movie adventurer and archaeologist."
791:
796:
786:
280:. The hatters Lincoln and Bennett, for whom Herbert's father had worked and where he served his own apprenticeship, were credited with developing this technology.
781:
776:
464:(1989). Both these hats were by Herbert Johnson. There can be little doubt, however, that the most famous cinema exposure for Herbert Johnson was when
299:
In spite of being underwater for almost a hundred years, one of
Herbert Johnson's collapsible silk top hats was recovered from the wreckage of the
192:
When his father died in 1889 he left £500 to
Herbert, who likely put the money towards the setting up of his own hat shop that same year at 45 New
771:
723:
657:
649:
761:
226:
also began designing women's hats for
Herbert Johnson. But Marangos' tenure turned out to be rather short-lived, for the firm was sold to
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20:
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426:
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705:
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commissioned Geoffrey Glazier to design a protective hat. Geoffrey did so, producing a lightweight but tough
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in 1996 and thereafter shared premises with its new owners, first at 10 Old Bond Street, then at 54
505:
227:
206:, where the firm remained until 1988, when it moved back to New Bond Street (this time to no. 30).
178:
162:
86:
75:
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who had moved to London, where he worked for the hat manufacturers Lincoln, Bennett & Co. of
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653:
645:
455:
235:
35:
341:, which it sponsored in the 1970s. The helmet fetched £23,000 when it came up for auction at
525:
473:
337:. This company had it covered in gold leaf and used as the Golden Helmet Trophy for the
268:. These hats had a "gossamer body", in other words one with a lightweight shell of fine
679:
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451:
441:
349:
307:
186:
103:
640:
Prior, pp. 131–2. Marcus Brittain and Timothy Clack, writing in their introduction to
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hailed him as "one of the best known and appreciated of leading West End tradesmen".
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on the night of 14–15 April 1912. Surprisingly, the hat's label is still legible.
490:
367:
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193:
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stores. These plans did not materialize; John Crowther Group was taken over by
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wore a white version of the Herbert Johnson racing helmet when he won the
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The firm takes its name from Herbert Lewis Johnson, born in the parish of
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733:, "Herbert Johnson: Hatters of New Bond Street", pp. 122–33
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In Good Hands: 250 Years of Craftsmanship at Swaine Adeney Brigg
533:
399:
138:
154:
128:
124:
472:
sported a broad-brimmed, high-crowned "Poet" felt hat in
578:
plush and silk broad-brimmed c. 1970 Herbert Johnson hat
520:(Never unprepared). The antelope sejant may represent a
348:
Other hats have been used in British television drama:
548:
in 1901, other warrants of appointment followed from
177:, in 1856, the son of William Johnson, a hatter from
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120:
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92:
82:
70:
62:
50:
42:
161:, the business was bought by the London firm of
631:when he won the Le Mans 24-hour race in 1953.
333:on 20 July 1957. He later sold the helmet to
8:
28:
19:For other people named Herbert Johnson, see
704:Prior, Katherine, with many photographs by
678:"Nunquam non paratus" is the motto of the
444:wore a high-crowned cotton twill trilby in
792:Companies based in the City of Westminster
34:
27:
214:, ties, socks, and leather accessories.
797:Manufacturing companies based in London
596:Charles Pascoe in the sixth edition of
589:
189:to Lincoln, Bennett & Co. in 1872.
787:Clothing companies established in 1889
436:series; the felt trilby gave way to a
782:British companies established in 1889
644:(Walnut Creek, CA: Left Coast Press;
7:
618:Prior, pp. 126–7 with illustration.
777:Clothing companies based in London
339:British Formula Ford Championships
261:The firm made a name for its silk-
157:makers. Founded in 1889 at 45 New
14:
315:Lieutenant-Colonel Goldie Gardner
66:Herbert Lewis Johnson (1856–1942)
21:Herbert Johnson (disambiguation)
772:1889 establishments in England
554:George I, King of the Hellenes
493:both sported Johnson fedoras.
1:
458:wore a purple felt fedora in
544:Appointed Hatter to HM King
762:Fashion accessory companies
813:
570:Victoria and Albert Museum
430:(1964), the second of his
356:sported a Herbert Johnson
248:United Kingdom Census 1901
18:
642:Archaeology and the Media
33:
447:White Hunter Black Heart
540:Warrants of appointment
528:of the Capps family of
479:Raiders of the Lost Ark
416:wore a Herbert Johnson
398:wore a Herbert Johnson
560:, Emperor of Germany.
513:
374:wore a floating-bevel
16:Hatters and cap makers
564:In public collections
204:Old Burlington Street
440:one in later films.
306:, which sank in the
175:Westminster St James
149:is a London firm of
139:herbertjohnson.co.uk
767:High fashion brands
524:, for it is in the
516:Numquam non paratus
408:On the big screen,
283:By the time of the
228:Swaine Adeney Brigg
179:Newcastle upon Tyne
163:Swaine Adeney Brigg
87:Swaine Adeney Brigg
76:Swaine Adeney Brigg
30:
552:, Tsar of Russia;
427:A Shot in the Dark
414:Inspector Clouseau
372:Captain Mainwaring
327:British Grand Prix
313:The racing driver
724:978-1-898565-09-3
658:978-1-59874-234-3
650:978-1-59874-233-6
323:Sir Stirling Moss
236:Piccadilly Arcade
232:St James's Street
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598:London of to-day
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508:with the motto:
474:Steven Spielberg
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31:
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699:Further reading
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629:Major Tony Rolt
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147:Herbert Johnson
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29:Herbert Johnson
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714:. Cambridge:
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697:
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691:Prior, p. 127.
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680:Clan Johnstone
671:
669:Prior, p. 131.
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633:
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609:Prior, p. 128.
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541:
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498:
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485:The musicians
452:Jack Nicholson
442:Clint Eastwood
378:in the sitcom
350:Patrick Macnee
335:British Oxygen
308:north Atlantic
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185:. Herbert was
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104:United Kingdom
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757:Luxury brands
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752:Hat companies
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470:Indiana Jones
467:
466:Harrison Ford
463:
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457:
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449:
448:
443:
439:
435:
434:
429:
428:
423:
422:Blake Edwards
419:
415:
411:
410:Peter Sellers
406:
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397:
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390:Fourth Doctor
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234:, and now in
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54:1889, 45 New
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46:Manufacturing
45:
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37:
32:
26:
22:
739:
736:
716:John Adamson
709:
706:James Austin
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487:Jimi Hendrix
484:
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450:(1990); and
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433:Pink Panther
431:
425:
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379:
363:The Avengers
361:
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312:
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282:
276:coated with
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172:
146:
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93:Headquarters
25:
550:Nicholas II
491:Mick Jagger
368:Arthur Lowe
295:Famous hats
285:World War I
194:Bond Street
187:apprenticed
159:Bond Street
56:Bond Street
746:Categories
652:hardback;
584:References
574:Roy Strong
558:Wilhelm II
546:Edward VII
522:visual pun
395:Doctor Who
381:Dad's Army
376:peaked cap
358:bowler hat
354:John Steed
183:Piccadilly
112:Key people
74:Bought by
731:815728722
386:Tom Baker
345:in 2009.
289:regiments
256:Stockport
212:outerwear
165:in 1996.
83:Successor
708:(2012).
503:antelope
482:(1981).
266:top hats
224:Prudence
220:Coloroll
121:Products
58:, London
43:Industry
530:Norfolk
454:as the
343:Bonhams
331:Aintree
303:Titanic
278:shellac
274:cambric
246:As the
169:History
151:hatters
135:Website
78:in 1996
63:Founder
51:Founded
729:
722:
656:
648:
572:: Sir
556:; and
506:sejant
461:Batman
418:trilby
403:fedora
384:; and
319:helmet
270:muslin
263:velvet
242:Output
98:London
526:crest
510:Latin
456:Joker
438:tweed
252:Luton
727:OCLC
720:ISBN
654:ISBN
646:ISBN
534:Kent
532:and
497:Logo
489:and
400:felt
301:RMS
254:and
153:and
129:caps
127:and
71:Fate
718:.
576:'s
501:An
476:'s
468:as
424:'s
420:in
412:as
392:in
388:'s
370:'s
360:in
352:'s
329:at
272:or
155:cap
125:Hat
748::
536:.
512::
405:.
366:;
321:.
291:.
258:.
101:,
682:.
518:"
514:"
23:.
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