Knowledge (XXG)

History of the kilt

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400:, written 1634–35. A 1677 account by one Thomas Kirk of Yorkshire described Scotsmen wearing "a sort of breeches, not unlike a petticoat, that reaches not so low, by far, as their knees. ... with a plaid over the left shoulder and under the right arm ...." Dunbar, relying on H. F. McClintock (1943), argues that it is not clear that the "petticoat" and plaid were separate garments (i.e., that the entire getup could have been a belted plaid). Dunbar called it "an ambiguous reference" that has been "furiously" debated. Mackay raised a point of logic: Since the belted plaid was made of two pieces of tartan cloth stitched together to provide the necessary top-to-bottom span, "It is surely too great a strain upon our credulity to ask us to believe" that no one before Rawlinson ever thought to use the lower one by itself. J.-A. Henderson (2000) accepts the historical visual evidence: "The idea of making the plaid shorter probably occurred to several people, as a smattering of early pictures show"; but he considers Rawlinson to have popularised the idea. All of the above is typical of the long-running debate, with different authors (often with unkind words for the opposition) offering their opinions and some evidence, with neither viewpoint clearly having the evidentiary upper-hand. Professor and museum curator Hugh Cheape wrote of the dispute: "Such a debate has tended to be circular, without adding much more than value judgement to our knowledge of Highland dress." 19: 425: 582: 320:, to manufacture charcoal from the forests near Inverness and smelt iron ore there. So the story goes, the belted plaid worn by the Highlanders he employed was too "cumbrous and unwieldy" for this work, so, together with the tailor of the regiment stationed at Inverness, Rawlinson produced a kilt which consisted of the lower half of the belted plaid worn as a "distinct garment with pleats already sewn". He wore it himself, as did his business partner, whose clansmen then followed suit. 441: 290: 574:. In the aftermath of that rebellion the Government decided to form more Highland regiments for the army in order to direct the energies of Gaels, that "hardy and intrepid race of men". In doing so, they formed effective new army regiments to send to fight in India, North America, and other locations while lowering the possibility of rebellion at home. Army uniforms were exempt from the ban on wearing kilts in the 170: 85: 478: 383:". Dunbar argued that because the engraver was Dutch that the outfit represented Dutch costume; he did not address the textual description. Earlier, D. W. Stewart (1893) also argued for evidence of 17th-century use, though the materials he was reading are not very clear, and Dunbar argues against his interpretations. Mackay further suggests Scottish coats of arms published in 1659 and 1673 show 594:
likely were invented by the Scottish themselves. The Highland regiments of the Commonwealth armies entered the Second World War wearing the kilt, but it was rapidly recognized as impractical for modern warfare, and in the first year of the war was officially banned as combat dress. Nonetheless, individual exceptions continued, and it is believed the kilt was last widely worn in action at
371:(2010) wrote that "it is ... ridiculous to suppose that an English Quaker industrialist could determine the sartorial priorities of ... a national culture" and that the story was characterised by "easy vehemence and lack of either rigour or depth". John Purser (2020) reports that there is no evidence to support the story in Rawlinson's own copious detailed papers. 474:" in 1746, outlawing men and boys wearing items of Highland dress including kilts (although an exception was made for the Highland regiments) with the intent of suppressing Highland culture. The penalties were severe; six months' imprisonment for the first offense and seven years' transportation for the second. The ban remained in effect for 35 years. 544: 1320:, pp. 37–38: "Highlanders we observed ... in their plaids, many without doublets, and those who have doublets have a kind of loose flap garment hanging loose about their breech, their knees bare". Dunbar quoted material from this work at length, for general garb-descriptive purposes, but did not comment on this passage. 263:), using a single width of cloth worn hanging down below the belt came into use, becoming popular throughout the Highlands and northern Lowlands by 1746, although the great kilt or belted plaid continued to be worn. The small kilt is a development from the great kilt, being essentially its bottom half. 593:
Many Scottish units wore the kilt in combat during the First World War. A common misconception is that the Scottish had gained nicknames such as 'Devils in Skirts' or 'Ladies from Hell' by Germans during the First World War, but there is a lack of evidence of Germans ever using such terms, and most
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Over the course of the 16th century, with the increasing availability of wool, the cloak had grown to such a size that it began to be gathered up and belted. The belted plaid was originally a length of thick woollen cloth made up from two loom-widths sewn together to give a total width of 54 to 60
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of Glengarry (in a belted plaid and tartan jacket), son of the aforementioned Ian MacDonnell, with a retainer in the background in the small kilt. The artist is unknown, and the painting is loosely dated to c. 1747. Dunbar argued that the location of Glengarry supported the idea of the small
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Reactions of 20th- and 21st-century researchers to the Rawlinson story have been mixed. J. G. Mackay (1924) calls it a "myth" without "credence", but one difficult to dispel for having gone so long without "a serious attempt to contradict it". He suspects a military-politics motivation behind the
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The garb is certainly very loose, and fits men inured to it to go through great fatigues, to make very quick marches, to bear out against the inclemency of the weather, to wade through rivers, and shelter in huts, woods, and rocks upon occasion; which men dressed in the low country garb could not
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After that point, the kilt gathered momentum as an emblem of Scottish culture as identified by antiquarians, romantics, and others, who spent much effort praising the "ancient" and natural qualities of the kilt. King George IV had appeared in a spectacular kilt, and his successor Queen
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letter: "There was at that time, as on several occasions since, an attempt being made to have the wearing of the dress by the Highland regiments discontinued ... and the article in question was written with the intention of discrediting the dress as a national garb." Sir
335:(1825) wrote of the story as being unsubstantiated, and "one of the arguments brought forward by some modern authors, to prove that the Highland garb is of recent introduction." Some 19th-century writers supported the notion of the story but did not get the details correct: 519:", including Lowlanders wearing a stylised version of the traditional garment of the Highlanders. At this time many other traditions such as clan identification by tartan were developed (prior to this, tartans were identified with regions, not specific clans). 563:, 43rd (later 42nd) Regiment of Foot, in 1739, their small-kilt uniform was standardised with a new dark tartan, today known as "Black Watch", "Government 1", "old Campbell", and other names. (Their great-kilt tartan was different, and has been lost.) 578:, and as a means of identification, the regiments were given different tartans. These regiments opted for the modern kilts for undress uniforms, and while the great kilt remained as dress uniform this was phased out by the early 19th century. 493:, which is how Highlanders were viewed. Most Lowlanders had viewed Highlanders with fear before 1745, but many identified with them after their power was broken. The kilt, along with other features of Gaelic culture, had become identified with 135:
Plaids with belt loops were in use by the 18th century. A surviving men's belted plaid from 1822 has a belt loops sewn inside it at each pattern repeat, such that it can be unpleated entirely into a blanket, or rapidly pleated with a hidden
631:, or 'saffron shirt' (often misinterpreted as a kilt in depictions), which may have had connections with the predecessor of the modern kilt. This tradition has been continued in the pipe bands of the Republic of Ireland's defence forces. 391:
Jacobite songs that specifically mentioned the "philabeg", and mid-17th-century sources that seem to treat the plaid and kilt as separate garments. J. F. Campbell (1862) also pointed out such material. A similar passage appears in
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It has been suggested by Matthew Newsome (2000) that there is evidence of Highlanders wearing only the bottom part of the belted plaid before this, as early as the 1690s. Innes of Learney cited a 1661 map of Aberdeen by James Gordon of
18: 116:), also known as the great kilt, is likely to have evolved over the course of the 16th century from the earlier "brat" or woollen cloak (also known as a plaid) which was worn over a tunic the leine, which was also worn by the 179: 359:(1939/1971) calls it a "wretched story". Barnes & Kennedy (1956) say the idea "was attributed" to Rawlinson, without taking a side. John Telfer Dunbar (1979) takes the letter at face value, and 424: 1677: 225:
rural areas. Widespread use of this type of kilt continued into the 19th century, and some still wear it today (kiltmakers who still supply great kilts offer them primarily as highly
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draped over the left shoulder, hung down over the belt and gathered up at the front, or brought up over the shoulders or head for protection against weather. It was worn over a
1719:
History of Highland Dress: A Definitive Study of the History of Scottish Costume and Tartan, Both Civil and Military, Including Weapons: With an Appendix on Early Scottish Dyes
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Thus, with the exception of the Army and those who served in it, the kilt went out of use in the Scottish Highlands, but during those years it became fashionable for Scottish
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in 1822, even though 9 out of 10 Scots now lived in the Lowlands. Scott and the Highland societies organised a "gathering of the Gael" and established entirely new Scottish "
379:
as possibly illustrating a short kilt; " evidence is not confined to his illustration, for he describes the garment as 'folded all round the body about the region of the belt
316:. After the Jacobite campaign of 1715, the government opened the Highlands to outside exploitation, and Rawlinson went into partnership with Ian MacDonnell, chief of the 270:
of the British Army, and the military kilt and its formalised accessories passed into civilian usage during the early 19th century and have remained popular ever since.
913:. "Biographical Memoirs of Eminent Novelists" series. Vol. VI: Periodical Criticism. Paris: Saudry's European Library. pp. 190–191 – via Google Books. 666:
The 1661 map, also cited by Mackay (1924), can be examined, with ability to zoom in on detail (the figure in question is just above the map's distance scale), here:
1611: 124:
designs, depending on the wealth of the wearer; this earlier fashion of clothing had not changed significantly from that worn by Celtic warriors in Roman times.
1817: 387:
in small kilts, and A. Campbell (1899) did likewise, as did Innes of Learney; Dunbar again offered a conflicting opinion. Mackay also quoted c. 1715
614:, who wore a kilt – and played the bagpipes – while German bullets whizzed around him. Capt. Ogilvie of the Glider Pilot Regiment landed in a kilt at Arnhem. 211:
The exact age of the great kilt is still under debate. Earlier carvings or illustrations prior to the 16th century appearing to show the kilt may show the
54:(similar to the modern or military kilt) did not develop until the late 17th or early 18th century, and is essentially the bottom half of the great kilt. 274: 273:
The earliest extant example of a tailored kilt is from c. 1796 (currently in the possession of the Scottish Tartans Authority). A regimental kilt of the
773: 367:& de La Chapelle (2007) label the story a "legend", accept the location, then suggest that the workers themselves may have invented the short kilt. 1674: 217:. The earliest written source that definitely describes the belted plaid or great kilt comes from 1594. The great kilt is mostly associated with the 500:
Once the ban was lifted in 1782, Highland landowners set up Highland Societies with aims including "improvements" (which others would call the
347:(1830) wrote "it is well known that the phillibeg was invented by an Englishman", but then got the location and date wrong. A 1914 article in 1868: 1756: 1410: 1381: 1133: 1105: 1080: 174: 1483: 512: 586: 408: 128:
inches (140 to 150 cm), and up to 7 yards (6.4 m) in length. This garment was gathered up into pleats and secured by a wide
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demonstrated the dangers to central government of such warrior Highland clans, and as part of a series of measures the government of
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A characteristic of the Highland clan system was that clansmen felt loyalty only to God, their monarch, and their clan chief. The
1456:
History of the 42nd Royal Highlanders – "The Black Watch" now the first battalion "The Black Watch" (Royal Highlanders) 1729–1893
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rebels adopted kilts as an informal uniform, with even their English supporters wearing tartan items during the
296:, c. 1747, in a belted plaid with a retainer in the small kilt, probably the first to appear in a portrait. 1153: 581: 140:
belt (with a second belt worn outside, to flatten the pleats, as in the portrait of Lord Mungo Murray above).
770: 504:) and promoting "the general use of the ancient Highland dress". The Celtic Society of Edinburgh, chaired by 1863: 1736: 1158: 940:. Vol. 1 (3rd ed.). Edinburgh: Archibald Constable & Co. p. 122 – via Google Books. 571: 356: 1767: 960:. Vol. 1. London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown & Green. p. 181 – via Google Books. 1454: 931: 454:, with lighting chosen to tone down the brightness of his kilt and his knees shown bare, without the pink 332: 304:
in March 1785 states that the garment people would recognize as a kilt today was invented in the 1720s by
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considered that the story not appearing until half a century after the alleged invention was suspicious.
1741: 1370: 1302: 1298: 560: 444: 376: 1460: 1193: 890:
The Culloden Papers: Comprising an Extensive and Interesting Correspondence from the Year 1625 to 1748
1810: 278: 1539: 363:(1983) accepts it without much question, relying on it heavily in a later posthumous volume (2008). 501: 234: 1748: 846: 635: 595: 516: 267: 218: 1783: 440: 1790: 1752: 1722: 1450: 1406: 1377: 1129: 1101: 1076: 1068: 360: 222: 917: 463: 238: 1580: 1401:('Scarlet Tartans Would Be Got ...'): The Re-invention of Tradition". In Brown, Ian (ed.). 289: 1700: 1681: 1639: 1239:. Westminster: Constable & Co. pp. 121–122, and plate 48 – via Internet Archive. 951: 820: 777: 497:, and now that this had ceased to be a real danger it was viewed with romantic nostalgia. 336: 191: 129: 1475: 1121: 622: 618: 451: 388: 368: 62: 1839: 1517: 481:
Satirical caricature of European women curious about kilted Scottish soldiers, c. 1815
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Nonetheless, the kilt of Rawlinson's factory is the earliest documented example with
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Sketches of the Character, Manners, and Present State of the Highlanders of Scotland
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For battle, it was customary to take off the plaid beforehand and set it aside, the
904: 669:"Abredoniae novae et veteris descriptio - A description of new and of old Aberdeen" 643: 505: 490: 477: 328: 101: 89: 35: 69:
meaning 'to tuck up the clothes around the body'. The Scots word derives from the
955: 935: 908: 888: 705: 1149: 611: 548: 511:
The kilt became identified with the whole of Scotland with the pageantry of the
486: 339:(1824) remembered the name "Rawlinson", but placed the events at a lead mine in 638:
of the British Army who have some affiliation with Scotland. This includes the
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dressed her boys in the kilt, widening its appeal. The kilt became part of the
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Irish. This earlier cloak may have been plain in colour or in various check or
567: 494: 313: 178:, shown wearing a belted plaid – possibly the uniform of the short-lived 137: 575: 471: 384: 230: 70: 743: 634:
The kilt is utilized in the modern full-dress uniforms for multiple active
1565:"Bill Millin, piper at the D-Day landings, died on August 17th, aged 88". 893:. London: T. Cadell & W. Davies. p. 103 – via Google Books. 559:
had worn kilts as government troops, and with their amalgamation into the
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to wear kilts as a form of protest against the ban. This was an age that
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Maj. H. R. Duff (1815) repeated the story, in short form, as fact in his
1845: 1234: 543: 340: 22:
Highland chieftain Lord Mungo Murray wearing belted plaid, around 1680.
1307:. Vol. IV. Edinburgh: Edmonston & Douglas. pp. 202–203. 455: 205: 157:
stopping below the waist) and could also serve as a camping blanket.
121: 93: 46:
draped over the shoulder, or brought up over the head as a hood. The
1777:
Trevor-Roper, Hugh (1983). "The Highland Tradition of Scotland". In
1124:(2012) . "Plaiding the Invention of Scotland". In Brown, Ian (ed.). 907:(1838). "Miscellaneous Criticism, Article IX: The Culloden Papers". 668: 1581:"Operation 'Market Garden' – The Battle for Arnhem, September 1944" 88:
Highland soldier in 1744, an early picture of great kilt, with the
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from c. 1817 still survives in remarkable condition at the
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Sometime in the late 17th or early 18th century the small kilt (
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A letter written by Ivan Baillie in 1768 and published in the
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stretches back to at least the end of the 16th century. The
508:, encouraged lowlanders to join this antiquarian enthusiasm. 42:, a full-length garment whose upper half could be worn as a 1835:. Heroic and overlooked involvement in Dunkirk evacuation. 1403:
From Tartan to Tartanry: Scottish Culture, History and Myth
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the earliest portrait unambiguously featuring a small kilt
827:. Franklin, North Carolina: Scottish Tartans Museum. 2020 407:, a distinctive feature of the kilt worn today. Probably 1017: 1015: 208:, heavily pleated and sometimes quilted as protection. 1772:. Stirling: Eneas Mackay – via Internet Archive. 737: 735: 733: 731: 250: 212: 195: 148: 111: 105: 1154:"Was it really an Englishman who invented the kilt?" 1043:
The Uniforms & History of the Scottish Regiments
1516:. Scottish Military History Society. Archived from 1198:. Edinburgh: George P. Johnson. pp. 15–17, 19. 1782: 1769:The Romantic Story of the Highland Garb and Tartan 1740: 1369: 1743:The Tartans of the Clans and Families of Scotland 910:The Miscellaneous Prose Works of Sir Walter Scott 847:"200 Objects of Waterloo: Highland Regiment Kilt" 1249: 1021: 805:Thompson, J. Charles (2003) . Gray, Iain (ed.). 793:, London: T. Cadell & W. Davies, p. 289 331:(1816) agreed with him in a review of the book. 1026:Gordon of Rothiemay, James (1841). "Appendix". 162: 1789:. Cambridge University Press. pp. 15–42. 1096:Banks, Jeffrey; de La Chapelle, Doria (2007). 200:or war shirt, a knee-length shirt of leather, 76:(meaning 'lap', 'fold of a gathered skirt'). 8: 1041:Barnes, R. Money; Allen, C. Kennedy (1956). 874: 1376:. Edinburgh: Mainstream Books. p. 61. 1028:History of Scots Affairs, from 1637 to 1641 957:The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland 887:Duff, H. R.; Forbes, Duncan George (1815). 626: 275:Gordon Highlanders (92nd Regiment of Foot) 1030:. Aberdeen: Spalding Club. p. xliii. 851:Age of Revolution – Making the World Over 1345:. Dundalk: W. Tempest / Dundalgan Press. 1045:. Seeley, Service & Co. p. 265. 610:, was accompanied by his personal piper 1654:"The Scottish kilt in the British Army" 1540:"Devils In Skirts And Ladies From Hell" 809:(Revised 5th ed.). Gardners Books. 697: 659: 233:evening wear – typically paired with a 1684:, scottish military disasters website. 1437: 1425: 1355: 1329: 1317: 1285: 1273: 1261: 1220: 1208: 1179: 1100:. New York: Rizzoli. pp. 71, 74. 1055: 1006: 994: 982: 970: 789:Forbes, Lord Culloden, Duncan (1815), 771:Sir John Murray MacGregor's 1822 plaid 458:he actually wore at the event in 1822. 1675:Quick Guide to the Scottish Regiments 1614:from the original on 18 February 2016 266:The tailored kilt was adopted by the 7: 1332:, pp. 41–42, quoting Kirk (1677) in 675:. National Library of Scotland. 2014 561:Earl of Crawford's Highland Regiment 420:Proscription and revival of the kilt 1484:Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs 1304:Popular Tales of the West Highlands 513:visit of King George IV to Scotland 447:'s 1829 flattering portrait of the 752:from the original on 21 March 2015 716:from the original on 24 April 2009 589:man a bunker at Aix, France (1939) 143:The upper half could be worn as a 14: 1514:Lineage of the Scottish Regiments 1236:Highland Dress, Arms and Ornament 1192:Stewart, Donald William (1893). 807:So You're Going to Wear the Kilt 491:romanticised "primitive" peoples 160:A description from 1746 states: 1195:Old & Rare Scottish Tartans 915:Review originally published in 748:, The Scottish Tartans Museum, 742:Newsome, Matthew Allen (2000), 587:Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders 1811:Late 17th-century belted plaid 1703:tartans authority.com website. 1652:Stroschen, K. (January 2005). 1633:The Royal Regiment of Scotland 1405:. Edinburgh University Press. 1368:Henderson, Jan-Andrew (2000). 1128:. Edinburgh University Press. 557:Independent Highland Companies 245:The small kilt or walking kilt 1: 1799:– via Internet Archive. 1721:. Edinburgh: B. T. Batsford. 1717:Dunbar, John Telfer (1979) . 1474:Smith, Philip D. Jr. (2020). 1386:– via Internet Archive. 745:The Early History of the Kilt 434:Alexander Ranaldson MacDonell 1869:Cultural history of Scotland 1495:(Article first published on 1343:Old Irish and Highland Dress 1233:Campbell, Archibald (1899). 221:, but was also used in poor 194:being made wearing only the 1747:(8th ed.). Edinburgh: 1098:Tartan: Romancing the Plaid 182: – in the painting by 1887: 1785:The Invention of Tradition 1781:; Ranger, Terence (eds.). 1399:Gheibhte Breacain Charnaid 1341:McClintock, H. F. (1943). 954:(1824). "Highland Dress". 648:Royal Scots Dragoon Guards 640:Royal Regiment of Scotland 529:Scottish national identity 92:being used to protect the 28:history of the modern kilt 1841:Irish Air Corps Pipe Band 1075:. Yale University Press. 1073:The Invention of Scotland 608:1 Special Service Brigade 598:in May 1940. However, on 596:the evacuation of Dunkirk 413:Alastair Ruadh MacDonnell 294:Alastair Ruadh MacDonnell 1737:Innes of Learney, Thomas 1699:12 November 2020 at the 1680:29 November 2020 at the 1339:vol. XCIX, no. 29; and: 1288:, pp. 78–80, 92–93. 650:, and many other units. 416:kilt originating there. 318:MacDonnells of Glengarry 96:lock from rain and wind. 1126:From Tartan to Tartanry 1022:Innes of Learney (1971) 932:Stewart of Garth, David 572:Jacobite rising of 1745 357:Thomas Innes of Learney 285:Dispute about invention 1766:Mackay, J. G. (1924). 1658:Waffen-und Kostumkunde 1638:7 January 2021 at the 1607:Reconstructing History 1461:W. & A.K. Johnston 1397:Cheape, Hugh (2012). " 1372:The Emperor's New Kilt 1299:Campbell, John Francis 821:"MacDuff Kilt c. 1800" 776:5 October 2016 at the 627: 590: 552: 482: 459: 437: 333:David Stewart of Garth 297: 251: 213: 196: 187: 180:105th Regiment of Foot 175:General William Gordon 167: 149: 112: 106: 97: 34:first appeared as the 23: 1250:Innes of Learney 1971 584: 546: 480: 443: 436:of Glengarry in 1812. 427: 292: 172: 87: 21: 1816:"We will remember", 1585:Imperial War Museums 279:National Army Museum 1642:, official website. 1544:www.keymilitary.com 1476:"History of Tartan" 1024:, pp. 5–6; citing: 825:ScottishTartans.org 712:. Merriam-Webster. 517:invented traditions 502:Highland clearances 235:Sheriffmuir doublet 107:breacan an fhéilidh 1749:Johnston and Bacon 1694:Regimental Tartans 1451:Groves, John Percy 1069:Trevor-Roper, Hugh 853:. Waterloo 200 Ltd 636:Scottish regiments 591: 553: 547:An officer of the 483: 460: 438: 302:Edinburgh Magazine 298: 268:Highland regiments 219:Scottish Highlands 188: 110:) or great plaid ( 98: 24: 1758:978-0-7179-4501-6 1569:. 28 August 2010. 1480:ClanChiefs.org.uk 1428:, pp. 69–70. 1412:978-0-7486-6464-1 1383:978-1-84018-378-8 1264:, pp. 53–54. 1223:, pp. 68–69. 1211:, pp. 35–36. 1135:978-0-7486-6464-1 1107:978-0-8478-2982-8 1082:978-0-300-15829-8 1058:, pp. 12–14. 985:, pp. 93–94. 877:, pp. 22–23. 875:Trevor-Roper 1983 361:Hugh Trevor-Roper 1876: 1849: 1834: 1833: 1831: 1826:on 26 March 2007 1822:, archived from 1800: 1788: 1773: 1762: 1746: 1732: 1704: 1691: 1685: 1672: 1666: 1665: 1649: 1643: 1630: 1624: 1622: 1621: 1619: 1602: 1596: 1595: 1593: 1591: 1577: 1571: 1570: 1562: 1556: 1555: 1553: 1551: 1536: 1530: 1529: 1527: 1525: 1506: 1500: 1494: 1492: 1490: 1471: 1465: 1464: 1447: 1441: 1435: 1429: 1423: 1417: 1416: 1394: 1388: 1387: 1375: 1365: 1359: 1353: 1347: 1346: 1327: 1321: 1315: 1309: 1308: 1295: 1289: 1283: 1277: 1271: 1265: 1259: 1253: 1247: 1241: 1240: 1230: 1224: 1218: 1212: 1206: 1200: 1199: 1189: 1183: 1177: 1171: 1170: 1168: 1166: 1146: 1140: 1139: 1118: 1112: 1111: 1093: 1087: 1086: 1065: 1059: 1053: 1047: 1046: 1038: 1032: 1031: 1019: 1010: 1004: 998: 992: 986: 980: 974: 968: 962: 961: 952:MacCulloch, John 948: 942: 941: 928: 922: 918:Quarterly Review 914: 901: 895: 894: 884: 878: 872: 863: 862: 860: 858: 843: 837: 836: 834: 832: 817: 811: 810: 802: 796: 794: 786: 780: 768: 762: 760: 759: 757: 739: 726: 725: 723: 721: 702: 685: 684: 682: 680: 664: 630: 464:Jacobite risings 394:William Brereton 382: 306:Thomas Rawlinson 255:, anglicised as 254: 229:– equivalent to 216: 199: 165:possibly endure. 153:(a full-sleeved 152: 115: 109: 1886: 1885: 1879: 1878: 1877: 1875: 1874: 1873: 1854: 1853: 1838: 1829: 1827: 1815: 1807: 1797: 1776: 1765: 1759: 1735: 1729: 1716: 1713: 1708: 1707: 1701:Wayback Machine 1692: 1688: 1682:Wayback Machine 1673: 1669: 1651: 1650: 1646: 1640:Wayback Machine 1631: 1627: 1617: 1615: 1604: 1603: 1599: 1589: 1587: 1579: 1578: 1574: 1564: 1563: 1559: 1549: 1547: 1546:. 26 April 2018 1538: 1537: 1533: 1523: 1521: 1520:on 21 July 2012 1508: 1507: 1503: 1488: 1486: 1473: 1472: 1468: 1449: 1448: 1444: 1436: 1432: 1424: 1420: 1413: 1396: 1395: 1391: 1384: 1367: 1366: 1362: 1354: 1350: 1340: 1328: 1324: 1316: 1312: 1297: 1296: 1292: 1284: 1280: 1272: 1268: 1260: 1256: 1248: 1244: 1232: 1231: 1227: 1219: 1215: 1207: 1203: 1191: 1190: 1186: 1178: 1174: 1164: 1162: 1148: 1147: 1143: 1136: 1122:Pittock, Murray 1120: 1119: 1115: 1108: 1095: 1094: 1090: 1083: 1067: 1066: 1062: 1054: 1050: 1040: 1039: 1035: 1025: 1020: 1013: 1005: 1001: 993: 989: 981: 977: 969: 965: 950: 949: 945: 930: 929: 925: 921:, January 1816. 903: 902: 898: 886: 885: 881: 873: 866: 856: 854: 845: 844: 840: 830: 828: 819: 818: 814: 804: 803: 799: 791:Culloden Papers 788: 787: 783: 778:Wayback Machine 769: 765: 755: 753: 741: 740: 729: 719: 717: 704: 703: 699: 694: 689: 688: 678: 676: 667: 665: 661: 656: 606:, commander of 555:From 1624, the 541: 422: 380: 337:John MacCulloch 325:Culloden Papers 287: 247: 192:Highland charge 82: 61:comes from the 12: 11: 5: 1884: 1883: 1880: 1872: 1871: 1866: 1864:Highland dress 1856: 1855: 1852: 1851: 1836: 1819:War detectives 1813: 1806: 1805:External links 1803: 1802: 1801: 1795: 1779:Hobsbawm, Eric 1774: 1763: 1757: 1733: 1727: 1712: 1709: 1706: 1705: 1686: 1667: 1644: 1625: 1597: 1572: 1557: 1531: 1510:"Introduction" 1501: 1466: 1442: 1430: 1418: 1411: 1389: 1382: 1360: 1348: 1322: 1310: 1290: 1278: 1266: 1254: 1252:, p. 278. 1242: 1225: 1213: 1201: 1184: 1172: 1152:(1 May 2020). 1141: 1134: 1113: 1106: 1088: 1081: 1060: 1048: 1033: 1011: 999: 987: 975: 963: 943: 923: 896: 879: 864: 838: 812: 797: 781: 763: 727: 696: 695: 693: 690: 687: 686: 658: 657: 655: 652: 625:wore the long 623:Gaelic Ireland 540: 537: 531:and the wider 468:King George II 452:King George IV 421: 418: 405:sewn-in pleats 369:Murray Pittock 286: 283: 246: 243: 237:and a ruffled 81: 80:The great kilt 78: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1882: 1881: 1870: 1867: 1865: 1862: 1861: 1859: 1847: 1843: 1842: 1837: 1825: 1821: 1820: 1814: 1812: 1809: 1808: 1804: 1798: 1796:0-521-24645-8 1792: 1787: 1786: 1780: 1775: 1771: 1770: 1764: 1760: 1754: 1750: 1745: 1744: 1738: 1734: 1730: 1728:0-7134-1894-X 1724: 1720: 1715: 1714: 1710: 1702: 1698: 1695: 1690: 1687: 1683: 1679: 1676: 1671: 1668: 1663: 1659: 1655: 1648: 1645: 1641: 1637: 1634: 1629: 1626: 1613: 1609: 1608: 1601: 1598: 1586: 1582: 1576: 1573: 1568: 1567:The Economist 1561: 1558: 1545: 1541: 1535: 1532: 1519: 1515: 1511: 1505: 1502: 1498: 1485: 1481: 1477: 1470: 1467: 1462: 1459:. Edinburgh: 1458: 1457: 1452: 1446: 1443: 1440:, p. 70. 1439: 1434: 1431: 1427: 1422: 1419: 1414: 1408: 1404: 1400: 1393: 1390: 1385: 1379: 1374: 1373: 1364: 1361: 1358:, p. 73. 1357: 1352: 1349: 1344: 1338: 1336: 1331: 1330:Dunbar (1979) 1326: 1323: 1319: 1318:Dunbar (1979) 1314: 1311: 1306: 1305: 1300: 1294: 1291: 1287: 1282: 1279: 1276:, p. 78. 1275: 1270: 1267: 1263: 1258: 1255: 1251: 1246: 1243: 1238: 1237: 1229: 1226: 1222: 1217: 1214: 1210: 1205: 1202: 1197: 1196: 1188: 1185: 1182:, p. 53. 1181: 1176: 1173: 1161: 1160: 1155: 1151: 1145: 1142: 1137: 1131: 1127: 1123: 1117: 1114: 1109: 1103: 1099: 1092: 1089: 1084: 1078: 1074: 1070: 1064: 1061: 1057: 1052: 1049: 1044: 1037: 1034: 1029: 1023: 1018: 1016: 1012: 1009:, p. 27. 1008: 1003: 1000: 997:, p. 67. 996: 991: 988: 984: 979: 976: 973:, p. 13. 972: 967: 964: 959: 958: 953: 947: 944: 939: 938: 933: 927: 924: 920: 919: 912: 911: 906: 905:Scott, Walter 900: 897: 892: 891: 883: 880: 876: 871: 869: 865: 852: 848: 842: 839: 826: 822: 816: 813: 808: 801: 798: 792: 785: 782: 779: 775: 772: 767: 764: 751: 747: 746: 738: 736: 734: 732: 728: 715: 711: 707: 701: 698: 691: 674: 670: 663: 660: 653: 651: 649: 645: 641: 637: 632: 629: 624: 620: 615: 613: 609: 605: 602:, June 1944, 601: 597: 588: 583: 579: 577: 573: 569: 564: 562: 558: 550: 545: 538: 536: 534: 530: 526: 520: 518: 514: 509: 507: 503: 498: 496: 492: 488: 479: 475: 473: 470:imposed the " 469: 465: 457: 453: 450: 446: 442: 435: 431: 430:Henry Raeburn 426: 419: 417: 414: 410: 406: 401: 399: 395: 390: 386: 378: 372: 370: 366: 362: 358: 352: 350: 349:Celtic Review 346: 345:John Sinclair 342: 338: 334: 330: 326: 321: 319: 315: 311: 307: 303: 295: 291: 284: 282: 280: 276: 271: 269: 264: 262: 258: 253: 252:fèileadh beag 244: 242: 240: 236: 232: 228: 227:formal attire 224: 220: 215: 209: 207: 203: 198: 193: 185: 184:Pompeo Batoni 181: 177: 176: 171: 166: 161: 158: 156: 151: 146: 141: 139: 133: 131: 125: 123: 119: 114: 108: 103: 95: 91: 86: 79: 77: 75: 72: 68: 64: 60: 55: 53: 49: 45: 41: 37: 33: 29: 20: 16: 1840: 1828:, retrieved 1824:the original 1818: 1784: 1768: 1742: 1718: 1689: 1670: 1661: 1657: 1647: 1628: 1616:, retrieved 1606: 1600: 1588:. Retrieved 1584: 1575: 1566: 1560: 1548:. Retrieved 1543: 1534: 1522:. Retrieved 1518:the original 1513: 1504: 1496: 1487:. Retrieved 1479: 1469: 1455: 1445: 1433: 1421: 1402: 1398: 1392: 1371: 1363: 1351: 1342: 1333: 1325: 1313: 1303: 1293: 1281: 1269: 1257: 1245: 1235: 1228: 1216: 1204: 1194: 1187: 1175: 1163:. Retrieved 1159:The National 1157: 1150:Purser, John 1144: 1125: 1116: 1097: 1091: 1072: 1063: 1051: 1042: 1036: 1027: 1002: 990: 978: 966: 956: 946: 936: 926: 916: 909: 899: 889: 882: 855:. Retrieved 850: 841: 829:. Retrieved 824: 815: 806: 800: 790: 784: 766: 754:, retrieved 744: 718:. Retrieved 709: 700: 677:. Retrieved 672: 662: 644:Scots Guards 633: 616: 592: 565: 554: 539:Military use 521: 510: 506:Walter Scott 499: 484: 461: 445:David Wilkie 428:Portrait by 402: 397: 373: 353: 348: 329:Walter Scott 324: 322: 301: 299: 272: 265: 260: 256: 248: 210: 197:léine croich 189: 173: 163: 159: 142: 134: 126: 113:feileadh mòr 102:belted plaid 99: 73: 66: 58: 56: 52:walking kilt 51: 47: 39: 36:belted plaid 27: 25: 15: 1830:28 December 1438:Dunbar 1979 1426:Dunbar 1979 1356:Mackay 1924 1286:Mackay 1924 1274:Mackay 1924 1262:Dunbar 1979 1221:Mackay 1924 1209:Dunbar 1979 1180:Dunbar 1979 1056:Dunbar 1979 1007:Mackay 1924 995:Mackay 1924 983:Mackay 1924 971:Dunbar 1979 673:Maps.NLS.uk 612:Bill Millin 585:Men of the 549:Black Watch 1858:Categories 1848:: Military 1664:(1): 1–12. 1618:6 December 756:6 December 710:Dictionary 692:References 604:Lord Lovat 535:identity. 495:Jacobitism 411:is one of 385:supporters 327:, and Sir 314:Lancashire 186:(1765–66). 138:drawstring 48:small kilt 40:great kilt 1739:(1971) . 1071:(2009) . 576:Dress Act 487:romantics 472:Dress Act 377:Rothiemay 231:white-tie 71:Old Norse 57:The noun 1697:Archived 1678:Archived 1636:Archived 1612:archived 1453:(1893). 1301:(1862). 934:(1924). 774:Archived 750:archived 720:1 August 714:Archived 568:Jacobite 525:Victoria 343:, while 261:philabeg 223:Lowlands 1711:Sources 1497:PanAlba 551:c. 1743 398:Travels 341:Tyndrum 257:filibeg 1793:  1755:  1725:  1590:10 May 1489:30 May 1409:  1380:  1335:Wodrow 1165:22 May 1132:  1104:  1079:  857:19 May 831:18 May 706:"kilt" 679:6 June 533:Celtic 456:tights 449:kilted 310:Quaker 206:canvas 122:tartan 118:Gaelic 94:musket 74:kjalta 1550:5 May 1524:6 May 654:Notes 628:léine 619:kerns 600:D-Day 566:Many 389:Scots 365:Banks 312:from 239:jabot 214:léine 204:, or 202:linen 155:tunic 150:léine 145:cloak 90:plaid 65:verb 63:Scots 44:cloak 1832:2006 1791:ISBN 1753:ISBN 1723:ISBN 1620:2010 1592:2023 1552:2024 1526:2007 1491:2023 1407:ISBN 1378:ISBN 1337:Mss. 1167:2020 1130:ISBN 1102:ISBN 1077:ISBN 859:2023 833:2023 758:2010 722:2008 681:2023 617:The 308:, a 130:belt 100:The 67:kilt 59:kilt 32:kilt 26:The 621:of 432:of 396:'s 259:or 241:). 50:or 38:or 1860:: 1846:IE 1844:, 1751:. 1662:47 1660:. 1656:. 1610:, 1583:. 1542:. 1512:. 1499:.) 1482:. 1478:. 1156:. 1014:^ 867:^ 849:. 823:. 730:^ 708:. 671:. 646:, 642:, 281:. 132:. 1850:. 1761:. 1731:. 1623:. 1594:. 1554:. 1528:. 1493:. 1463:. 1415:. 1169:. 1138:. 1110:. 1085:. 861:. 835:. 795:. 761:. 724:. 683:. 381:' 104:(

Index


kilt
belted plaid
cloak
Scots
Old Norse

plaid
musket
belted plaid
Gaelic
tartan
belt
drawstring
cloak
tunic

General William Gordon
105th Regiment of Foot
Pompeo Batoni
Highland charge
linen
canvas
Scottish Highlands
Lowlands
formal attire
white-tie
Sheriffmuir doublet
jabot
Highland regiments

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