400:, written 1634–35. A 1677 account by one Thomas Kirk of Yorkshire described Scotsmen wearing "a sort of breeches, not unlike a petticoat, that reaches not so low, by far, as their knees. ... with a plaid over the left shoulder and under the right arm ...." Dunbar, relying on H. F. McClintock (1943), argues that it is not clear that the "petticoat" and plaid were separate garments (i.e., that the entire getup could have been a belted plaid). Dunbar called it "an ambiguous reference" that has been "furiously" debated. Mackay raised a point of logic: Since the belted plaid was made of two pieces of tartan cloth stitched together to provide the necessary top-to-bottom span, "It is surely too great a strain upon our credulity to ask us to believe" that no one before Rawlinson ever thought to use the lower one by itself. J.-A. Henderson (2000) accepts the historical visual evidence: "The idea of making the plaid shorter probably occurred to several people, as a smattering of early pictures show"; but he considers Rawlinson to have popularised the idea. All of the above is typical of the long-running debate, with different authors (often with unkind words for the opposition) offering their opinions and some evidence, with neither viewpoint clearly having the evidentiary upper-hand. Professor and museum curator Hugh Cheape wrote of the dispute: "Such a debate has tended to be circular, without adding much more than value judgement to our knowledge of Highland dress."
19:
425:
582:
320:, to manufacture charcoal from the forests near Inverness and smelt iron ore there. So the story goes, the belted plaid worn by the Highlanders he employed was too "cumbrous and unwieldy" for this work, so, together with the tailor of the regiment stationed at Inverness, Rawlinson produced a kilt which consisted of the lower half of the belted plaid worn as a "distinct garment with pleats already sewn". He wore it himself, as did his business partner, whose clansmen then followed suit.
441:
290:
574:. In the aftermath of that rebellion the Government decided to form more Highland regiments for the army in order to direct the energies of Gaels, that "hardy and intrepid race of men". In doing so, they formed effective new army regiments to send to fight in India, North America, and other locations while lowering the possibility of rebellion at home. Army uniforms were exempt from the ban on wearing kilts in the
170:
85:
478:
383:". Dunbar argued that because the engraver was Dutch that the outfit represented Dutch costume; he did not address the textual description. Earlier, D. W. Stewart (1893) also argued for evidence of 17th-century use, though the materials he was reading are not very clear, and Dunbar argues against his interpretations. Mackay further suggests Scottish coats of arms published in 1659 and 1673 show
594:
likely were invented by the
Scottish themselves. The Highland regiments of the Commonwealth armies entered the Second World War wearing the kilt, but it was rapidly recognized as impractical for modern warfare, and in the first year of the war was officially banned as combat dress. Nonetheless, individual exceptions continued, and it is believed the kilt was last widely worn in action at
371:(2010) wrote that "it is ... ridiculous to suppose that an English Quaker industrialist could determine the sartorial priorities of ... a national culture" and that the story was characterised by "easy vehemence and lack of either rigour or depth". John Purser (2020) reports that there is no evidence to support the story in Rawlinson's own copious detailed papers.
474:" in 1746, outlawing men and boys wearing items of Highland dress including kilts (although an exception was made for the Highland regiments) with the intent of suppressing Highland culture. The penalties were severe; six months' imprisonment for the first offense and seven years' transportation for the second. The ban remained in effect for 35 years.
544:
1320:, pp. 37–38: "Highlanders we observed ... in their plaids, many without doublets, and those who have doublets have a kind of loose flap garment hanging loose about their breech, their knees bare". Dunbar quoted material from this work at length, for general garb-descriptive purposes, but did not comment on this passage.
263:), using a single width of cloth worn hanging down below the belt came into use, becoming popular throughout the Highlands and northern Lowlands by 1746, although the great kilt or belted plaid continued to be worn. The small kilt is a development from the great kilt, being essentially its bottom half.
593:
Many
Scottish units wore the kilt in combat during the First World War. A common misconception is that the Scottish had gained nicknames such as 'Devils in Skirts' or 'Ladies from Hell' by Germans during the First World War, but there is a lack of evidence of Germans ever using such terms, and most
127:
Over the course of the 16th century, with the increasing availability of wool, the cloak had grown to such a size that it began to be gathered up and belted. The belted plaid was originally a length of thick woollen cloth made up from two loom-widths sewn together to give a total width of 54 to 60
415:
of
Glengarry (in a belted plaid and tartan jacket), son of the aforementioned Ian MacDonnell, with a retainer in the background in the small kilt. The artist is unknown, and the painting is loosely dated to c. 1747. Dunbar argued that the location of Glengarry supported the idea of the small
354:
Reactions of 20th- and 21st-century researchers to the
Rawlinson story have been mixed. J. G. Mackay (1924) calls it a "myth" without "credence", but one difficult to dispel for having gone so long without "a serious attempt to contradict it". He suspects a military-politics motivation behind the
164:
The garb is certainly very loose, and fits men inured to it to go through great fatigues, to make very quick marches, to bear out against the inclemency of the weather, to wade through rivers, and shelter in huts, woods, and rocks upon occasion; which men dressed in the low country garb could not
522:
After that point, the kilt gathered momentum as an emblem of
Scottish culture as identified by antiquarians, romantics, and others, who spent much effort praising the "ancient" and natural qualities of the kilt. King George IV had appeared in a spectacular kilt, and his successor Queen
355:
letter: "There was at that time, as on several occasions since, an attempt being made to have the wearing of the dress by the
Highland regiments discontinued ... and the article in question was written with the intention of discrediting the dress as a national garb." Sir
335:(1825) wrote of the story as being unsubstantiated, and "one of the arguments brought forward by some modern authors, to prove that the Highland garb is of recent introduction." Some 19th-century writers supported the notion of the story but did not get the details correct:
519:", including Lowlanders wearing a stylised version of the traditional garment of the Highlanders. At this time many other traditions such as clan identification by tartan were developed (prior to this, tartans were identified with regions, not specific clans).
563:, 43rd (later 42nd) Regiment of Foot, in 1739, their small-kilt uniform was standardised with a new dark tartan, today known as "Black Watch", "Government 1", "old Campbell", and other names. (Their great-kilt tartan was different, and has been lost.)
578:, and as a means of identification, the regiments were given different tartans. These regiments opted for the modern kilts for undress uniforms, and while the great kilt remained as dress uniform this was phased out by the early 19th century.
493:, which is how Highlanders were viewed. Most Lowlanders had viewed Highlanders with fear before 1745, but many identified with them after their power was broken. The kilt, along with other features of Gaelic culture, had become identified with
135:
Plaids with belt loops were in use by the 18th century. A surviving men's belted plaid from 1822 has a belt loops sewn inside it at each pattern repeat, such that it can be unpleated entirely into a blanket, or rapidly pleated with a hidden
631:, or 'saffron shirt' (often misinterpreted as a kilt in depictions), which may have had connections with the predecessor of the modern kilt. This tradition has been continued in the pipe bands of the Republic of Ireland's defence forces.
391:
Jacobite songs that specifically mentioned the "philabeg", and mid-17th-century sources that seem to treat the plaid and kilt as separate garments. J. F. Campbell (1862) also pointed out such material. A similar passage appears in
374:
It has been suggested by
Matthew Newsome (2000) that there is evidence of Highlanders wearing only the bottom part of the belted plaid before this, as early as the 1690s. Innes of Learney cited a 1661 map of Aberdeen by James Gordon of
18:
116:), also known as the great kilt, is likely to have evolved over the course of the 16th century from the earlier "brat" or woollen cloak (also known as a plaid) which was worn over a tunic the leine, which was also worn by the
179:
359:(1939/1971) calls it a "wretched story". Barnes & Kennedy (1956) say the idea "was attributed" to Rawlinson, without taking a side. John Telfer Dunbar (1979) takes the letter at face value, and
424:
1677:
225:
rural areas. Widespread use of this type of kilt continued into the 19th century, and some still wear it today (kiltmakers who still supply great kilts offer them primarily as highly
147:
draped over the left shoulder, hung down over the belt and gathered up at the front, or brought up over the shoulders or head for protection against weather. It was worn over a
1719:
History of
Highland Dress: A Definitive Study of the History of Scottish Costume and Tartan, Both Civil and Military, Including Weapons: With an Appendix on Early Scottish Dyes
485:
Thus, with the exception of the Army and those who served in it, the kilt went out of use in the
Scottish Highlands, but during those years it became fashionable for Scottish
1696:
1635:
515:
in 1822, even though 9 out of 10 Scots now lived in the
Lowlands. Scott and the Highland societies organised a "gathering of the Gael" and established entirely new Scottish "
379:
as possibly illustrating a short kilt; " evidence is not confined to his illustration, for he describes the garment as 'folded all round the body about the region of the belt
316:. After the Jacobite campaign of 1715, the government opened the Highlands to outside exploitation, and Rawlinson went into partnership with Ian MacDonnell, chief of the
270:
of the British Army, and the military kilt and its formalised accessories passed into civilian usage during the early 19th century and have remained popular ever since.
913:. "Biographical Memoirs of Eminent Novelists" series. Vol. VI: Periodical Criticism. Paris: Saudry's European Library. pp. 190–191 – via Google Books.
666:
The 1661 map, also cited by Mackay (1924), can be examined, with ability to zoom in on detail (the figure in question is just above the map's distance scale), here:
1611:
124:
designs, depending on the wealth of the wearer; this earlier fashion of clothing had not changed significantly from that worn by Celtic warriors in Roman times.
1817:
387:
in small kilts, and A. Campbell (1899) did likewise, as did Innes of Learney; Dunbar again offered a conflicting opinion. Mackay also quoted c. 1715
614:, who wore a kilt – and played the bagpipes – while German bullets whizzed around him. Capt. Ogilvie of the Glider Pilot Regiment landed in a kilt at Arnhem.
211:
The exact age of the great kilt is still under debate. Earlier carvings or illustrations prior to the 16th century appearing to show the kilt may show the
54:(similar to the modern or military kilt) did not develop until the late 17th or early 18th century, and is essentially the bottom half of the great kilt.
274:
273:
The earliest extant example of a tailored kilt is from c. 1796 (currently in the possession of the Scottish Tartans Authority). A regimental kilt of the
773:
367:& de La Chapelle (2007) label the story a "legend", accept the location, then suggest that the workers themselves may have invented the short kilt.
1674:
217:. The earliest written source that definitely describes the belted plaid or great kilt comes from 1594. The great kilt is mostly associated with the
500:
Once the ban was lifted in 1782, Highland landowners set up Highland Societies with aims including "improvements" (which others would call the
347:(1830) wrote "it is well known that the phillibeg was invented by an Englishman", but then got the location and date wrong. A 1914 article in
1868:
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1483:
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inches (140 to 150 cm), and up to 7 yards (6.4 m) in length. This garment was gathered up into pleats and secured by a wide
466:
demonstrated the dangers to central government of such warrior Highland clans, and as part of a series of measures the government of
1794:
1726:
1632:
393:
1693:
462:
A characteristic of the Highland clan system was that clansmen felt loyalty only to God, their monarch, and their clan chief. The
1456:
History of the 42nd Royal Highlanders – "The Black Watch" now the first battalion "The Black Watch" (Royal Highlanders) 1729–1893
305:
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rebels adopted kilts as an informal uniform, with even their English supporters wearing tartan items during the
296:, c. 1747, in a belted plaid with a retainer in the small kilt, probably the first to appear in a portrait.
1153:
581:
140:
belt (with a second belt worn outside, to flatten the pleats, as in the portrait of Lord Mungo Murray above).
770:
504:) and promoting "the general use of the ancient Highland dress". The Celtic Society of Edinburgh, chaired by
1863:
1736:
1158:
940:. Vol. 1 (3rd ed.). Edinburgh: Archibald Constable & Co. p. 122 – via Google Books.
571:
356:
1767:
960:. Vol. 1. London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown & Green. p. 181 – via Google Books.
1454:
931:
454:, with lighting chosen to tone down the brightness of his kilt and his knees shown bare, without the pink
332:
304:
in March 1785 states that the garment people would recognize as a kilt today was invented in the 1720s by
351:
considered that the story not appearing until half a century after the alleged invention was suspicious.
1741:
1370:
1302:
1298:
560:
444:
376:
1460:
1193:
890:
The Culloden Papers: Comprising an Extensive and Interesting Correspondence from the Year 1625 to 1748
1810:
278:
1539:
363:(1983) accepts it without much question, relying on it heavily in a later posthumous volume (2008).
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222:
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463:
238:
1580:
1401:('Scarlet Tartans Would Be Got ...'): The Re-invention of Tradition". In Brown, Ian (ed.).
289:
1700:
1681:
1639:
1239:. Westminster: Constable & Co. pp. 121–122, and plate 48 – via Internet Archive.
951:
820:
777:
497:, and now that this had ceased to be a real danger it was viewed with romantic nostalgia.
336:
191:
129:
1475:
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622:
618:
451:
388:
368:
62:
1839:
1517:
481:
Satirical caricature of European women curious about kilted Scottish soldiers, c. 1815
169:
84:
1857:
1778:
1653:
1334:
429:
403:
Nonetheless, the kilt of Rawlinson's factory is the earliest documented example with
364:
226:
183:
937:
Sketches of the Character, Manners, and Present State of the Highlanders of Scotland
190:
For battle, it was customary to take off the plaid beforehand and set it aside, the
904:
669:"Abredoniae novae et veteris descriptio - A description of new and of old Aberdeen"
643:
505:
490:
477:
328:
101:
89:
35:
69:
meaning 'to tuck up the clothes around the body'. The Scots word derives from the
955:
935:
908:
888:
705:
1149:
611:
548:
511:
The kilt became identified with the whole of Scotland with the pageantry of the
486:
339:(1824) remembered the name "Rawlinson", but placed the events at a lead mine in
638:
of the British Army who have some affiliation with Scotland. This includes the
527:
dressed her boys in the kilt, widening its appeal. The kilt became part of the
120:
Irish. This earlier cloak may have been plain in colour or in various check or
567:
494:
313:
178:, shown wearing a belted plaid – possibly the uniform of the short-lived
137:
575:
471:
384:
230:
70:
743:
634:
The kilt is utilized in the modern full-dress uniforms for multiple active
1565:"Bill Millin, piper at the D-Day landings, died on August 17th, aged 88".
893:. London: T. Cadell & W. Davies. p. 103 – via Google Books.
559:
had worn kilts as government troops, and with their amalgamation into the
489:
to wear kilts as a form of protest against the ban. This was an age that
323:
Maj. H. R. Duff (1815) repeated the story, in short form, as fact in his
1845:
1234:
543:
340:
22:
Highland chieftain Lord Mungo Murray wearing belted plaid, around 1680.
1307:. Vol. IV. Edinburgh: Edmonston & Douglas. pp. 202–203.
455:
205:
157:
stopping below the waist) and could also serve as a camping blanket.
121:
93:
46:
draped over the shoulder, or brought up over the head as a hood. The
1777:
Trevor-Roper, Hugh (1983). "The Highland Tradition of Scotland". In
1124:(2012) . "Plaiding the Invention of Scotland". In Brown, Ian (ed.).
907:(1838). "Miscellaneous Criticism, Article IX: The Culloden Papers".
668:
1581:"Operation 'Market Garden' – The Battle for Arnhem, September 1944"
88:
Highland soldier in 1744, an early picture of great kilt, with the
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580:
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476:
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423:
404:
288:
201:
168:
154:
144:
117:
83:
43:
17:
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448:
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from c. 1817 still survives in remarkable condition at the
249:
Sometime in the late 17th or early 18th century the small kilt (
31:
870:
868:
300:
A letter written by Ivan Baillie in 1768 and published in the
30:
stretches back to at least the end of the 16th century. The
508:, encouraged lowlanders to join this antiquarian enthusiasm.
42:, a full-length garment whose upper half could be worn as a
1835:. Heroic and overlooked involvement in Dunkirk evacuation.
1403:
From Tartan to Tartanry: Scottish Culture, History and Myth
409:
the earliest portrait unambiguously featuring a small kilt
827:. Franklin, North Carolina: Scottish Tartans Museum. 2020
407:, a distinctive feature of the kilt worn today. Probably
1017:
1015:
208:, heavily pleated and sometimes quilted as protection.
1772:. Stirling: Eneas Mackay – via Internet Archive.
737:
735:
733:
731:
250:
212:
195:
148:
111:
105:
1154:"Was it really an Englishman who invented the kilt?"
1043:
The Uniforms & History of the Scottish Regiments
1516:. Scottish Military History Society. Archived from
1198:. Edinburgh: George P. Johnson. pp. 15–17, 19.
1782:
1769:The Romantic Story of the Highland Garb and Tartan
1740:
1369:
1743:The Tartans of the Clans and Families of Scotland
910:The Miscellaneous Prose Works of Sir Walter Scott
847:"200 Objects of Waterloo: Highland Regiment Kilt"
1249:
1021:
805:Thompson, J. Charles (2003) . Gray, Iain (ed.).
793:, London: T. Cadell & W. Davies, p. 289
331:(1816) agreed with him in a review of the book.
1026:Gordon of Rothiemay, James (1841). "Appendix".
162:
1789:. Cambridge University Press. pp. 15–42.
1096:Banks, Jeffrey; de La Chapelle, Doria (2007).
200:or war shirt, a knee-length shirt of leather,
76:(meaning 'lap', 'fold of a gathered skirt').
8:
1041:Barnes, R. Money; Allen, C. Kennedy (1956).
874:
1376:. Edinburgh: Mainstream Books. p. 61.
1028:History of Scots Affairs, from 1637 to 1641
957:The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland
887:Duff, H. R.; Forbes, Duncan George (1815).
626:
275:Gordon Highlanders (92nd Regiment of Foot)
1030:. Aberdeen: Spalding Club. p. xliii.
851:Age of Revolution – Making the World Over
1345:. Dundalk: W. Tempest / Dundalgan Press.
1045:. Seeley, Service & Co. p. 265.
610:, was accompanied by his personal piper
1654:"The Scottish kilt in the British Army"
1540:"Devils In Skirts And Ladies From Hell"
809:(Revised 5th ed.). Gardners Books.
697:
659:
233:evening wear – typically paired with a
1684:, scottish military disasters website.
1437:
1425:
1355:
1329:
1317:
1285:
1273:
1261:
1220:
1208:
1179:
1100:. New York: Rizzoli. pp. 71, 74.
1055:
1006:
994:
982:
970:
789:Forbes, Lord Culloden, Duncan (1815),
771:Sir John Murray MacGregor's 1822 plaid
458:he actually wore at the event in 1822.
1675:Quick Guide to the Scottish Regiments
1614:from the original on 18 February 2016
266:The tailored kilt was adopted by the
7:
1332:, pp. 41–42, quoting Kirk (1677) in
675:. National Library of Scotland. 2014
561:Earl of Crawford's Highland Regiment
420:Proscription and revival of the kilt
1484:Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs
1304:Popular Tales of the West Highlands
513:visit of King George IV to Scotland
447:'s 1829 flattering portrait of the
752:from the original on 21 March 2015
716:from the original on 24 April 2009
589:man a bunker at Aix, France (1939)
143:The upper half could be worn as a
14:
1514:Lineage of the Scottish Regiments
1236:Highland Dress, Arms and Ornament
1192:Stewart, Donald William (1893).
807:So You're Going to Wear the Kilt
491:romanticised "primitive" peoples
160:A description from 1746 states:
1195:Old & Rare Scottish Tartans
915:Review originally published in
748:, The Scottish Tartans Museum,
742:Newsome, Matthew Allen (2000),
587:Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders
1811:Late 17th-century belted plaid
1703:tartans authority.com website.
1652:Stroschen, K. (January 2005).
1633:The Royal Regiment of Scotland
1405:. Edinburgh University Press.
1368:Henderson, Jan-Andrew (2000).
1128:. Edinburgh University Press.
557:Independent Highland Companies
245:The small kilt or walking kilt
1:
1799:– via Internet Archive.
1721:. Edinburgh: B. T. Batsford.
1717:Dunbar, John Telfer (1979) .
1474:Smith, Philip D. Jr. (2020).
1386:– via Internet Archive.
745:The Early History of the Kilt
434:Alexander Ranaldson MacDonell
1869:Cultural history of Scotland
1495:(Article first published on
1343:Old Irish and Highland Dress
1233:Campbell, Archibald (1899).
221:, but was also used in poor
194:being made wearing only the
1747:(8th ed.). Edinburgh:
1098:Tartan: Romancing the Plaid
182: – in the painting by
1887:
1785:The Invention of Tradition
1781:; Ranger, Terence (eds.).
1399:Gheibhte Breacain Charnaid
1341:McClintock, H. F. (1943).
954:(1824). "Highland Dress".
648:Royal Scots Dragoon Guards
640:Royal Regiment of Scotland
529:Scottish national identity
92:being used to protect the
28:history of the modern kilt
1841:Irish Air Corps Pipe Band
1075:. Yale University Press.
1073:The Invention of Scotland
608:1 Special Service Brigade
598:in May 1940. However, on
596:the evacuation of Dunkirk
413:Alastair Ruadh MacDonnell
294:Alastair Ruadh MacDonnell
1737:Innes of Learney, Thomas
1699:12 November 2020 at the
1680:29 November 2020 at the
1339:vol. XCIX, no. 29; and:
1288:, pp. 78–80, 92–93.
650:, and many other units.
416:kilt originating there.
318:MacDonnells of Glengarry
96:lock from rain and wind.
1126:From Tartan to Tartanry
1022:Innes of Learney (1971)
932:Stewart of Garth, David
572:Jacobite rising of 1745
357:Thomas Innes of Learney
285:Dispute about invention
1766:Mackay, J. G. (1924).
1658:Waffen-und Kostumkunde
1638:7 January 2021 at the
1607:Reconstructing History
1461:W. & A.K. Johnston
1397:Cheape, Hugh (2012). "
1372:The Emperor's New Kilt
1299:Campbell, John Francis
821:"MacDuff Kilt c. 1800"
776:5 October 2016 at the
627:
590:
552:
482:
459:
437:
333:David Stewart of Garth
297:
251:
213:
196:
187:
180:105th Regiment of Foot
175:General William Gordon
167:
149:
112:
106:
97:
34:first appeared as the
23:
1250:Innes of Learney 1971
584:
546:
480:
443:
436:of Glengarry in 1812.
427:
292:
172:
87:
21:
1816:"We will remember",
1585:Imperial War Museums
279:National Army Museum
1642:, official website.
1544:www.keymilitary.com
1476:"History of Tartan"
1024:, pp. 5–6; citing:
825:ScottishTartans.org
712:. Merriam-Webster.
517:invented traditions
502:Highland clearances
235:Sheriffmuir doublet
107:breacan an fhéilidh
1749:Johnston and Bacon
1694:Regimental Tartans
1451:Groves, John Percy
1069:Trevor-Roper, Hugh
853:. Waterloo 200 Ltd
636:Scottish regiments
591:
553:
547:An officer of the
483:
460:
438:
302:Edinburgh Magazine
298:
268:Highland regiments
219:Scottish Highlands
188:
110:) or great plaid (
98:
24:
1758:978-0-7179-4501-6
1569:. 28 August 2010.
1480:ClanChiefs.org.uk
1428:, pp. 69–70.
1412:978-0-7486-6464-1
1383:978-1-84018-378-8
1264:, pp. 53–54.
1223:, pp. 68–69.
1211:, pp. 35–36.
1135:978-0-7486-6464-1
1107:978-0-8478-2982-8
1082:978-0-300-15829-8
1058:, pp. 12–14.
985:, pp. 93–94.
877:, pp. 22–23.
875:Trevor-Roper 1983
361:Hugh Trevor-Roper
1876:
1849:
1834:
1833:
1831:
1826:on 26 March 2007
1822:, archived from
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1394:
1388:
1387:
1375:
1365:
1359:
1353:
1347:
1346:
1327:
1321:
1315:
1309:
1308:
1295:
1289:
1283:
1277:
1271:
1265:
1259:
1253:
1247:
1241:
1240:
1230:
1224:
1218:
1212:
1206:
1200:
1199:
1189:
1183:
1177:
1171:
1170:
1168:
1166:
1146:
1140:
1139:
1118:
1112:
1111:
1093:
1087:
1086:
1065:
1059:
1053:
1047:
1046:
1038:
1032:
1031:
1019:
1010:
1004:
998:
992:
986:
980:
974:
968:
962:
961:
952:MacCulloch, John
948:
942:
941:
928:
922:
918:Quarterly Review
914:
901:
895:
894:
884:
878:
872:
863:
862:
860:
858:
843:
837:
836:
834:
832:
817:
811:
810:
802:
796:
794:
786:
780:
768:
762:
760:
759:
757:
739:
726:
725:
723:
721:
702:
685:
684:
682:
680:
664:
630:
464:Jacobite risings
394:William Brereton
382:
306:Thomas Rawlinson
255:, anglicised as
254:
229:– equivalent to
216:
199:
165:possibly endure.
153:(a full-sleeved
152:
115:
109:
1886:
1885:
1879:
1878:
1877:
1875:
1874:
1873:
1854:
1853:
1838:
1829:
1827:
1815:
1807:
1797:
1776:
1765:
1759:
1735:
1729:
1716:
1713:
1708:
1707:
1701:Wayback Machine
1692:
1688:
1682:Wayback Machine
1673:
1669:
1651:
1650:
1646:
1640:Wayback Machine
1631:
1627:
1617:
1615:
1604:
1603:
1599:
1589:
1587:
1579:
1578:
1574:
1564:
1563:
1559:
1549:
1547:
1546:. 26 April 2018
1538:
1537:
1533:
1523:
1521:
1520:on 21 July 2012
1508:
1507:
1503:
1488:
1486:
1473:
1472:
1468:
1449:
1448:
1444:
1436:
1432:
1424:
1420:
1413:
1396:
1395:
1391:
1384:
1367:
1366:
1362:
1354:
1350:
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1328:
1324:
1316:
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1297:
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1284:
1280:
1272:
1268:
1260:
1256:
1248:
1244:
1232:
1231:
1227:
1219:
1215:
1207:
1203:
1191:
1190:
1186:
1178:
1174:
1164:
1162:
1148:
1147:
1143:
1136:
1122:Pittock, Murray
1120:
1119:
1115:
1108:
1095:
1094:
1090:
1083:
1067:
1066:
1062:
1054:
1050:
1040:
1039:
1035:
1025:
1020:
1013:
1005:
1001:
993:
989:
981:
977:
969:
965:
950:
949:
945:
930:
929:
925:
921:, January 1816.
903:
902:
898:
886:
885:
881:
873:
866:
856:
854:
845:
844:
840:
830:
828:
819:
818:
814:
804:
803:
799:
791:Culloden Papers
788:
787:
783:
778:Wayback Machine
769:
765:
755:
753:
741:
740:
729:
719:
717:
704:
703:
699:
694:
689:
688:
678:
676:
667:
665:
661:
656:
606:, commander of
555:From 1624, the
541:
422:
380:
337:John MacCulloch
325:Culloden Papers
287:
247:
192:Highland charge
82:
61:comes from the
12:
11:
5:
1884:
1883:
1880:
1872:
1871:
1866:
1864:Highland dress
1856:
1855:
1852:
1851:
1836:
1819:War detectives
1813:
1806:
1805:External links
1803:
1802:
1801:
1795:
1779:Hobsbawm, Eric
1774:
1763:
1757:
1733:
1727:
1712:
1709:
1706:
1705:
1686:
1667:
1644:
1625:
1597:
1572:
1557:
1531:
1510:"Introduction"
1501:
1466:
1442:
1430:
1418:
1411:
1389:
1382:
1360:
1348:
1322:
1310:
1290:
1278:
1266:
1254:
1252:, p. 278.
1242:
1225:
1213:
1201:
1184:
1172:
1152:(1 May 2020).
1141:
1134:
1113:
1106:
1088:
1081:
1060:
1048:
1033:
1011:
999:
987:
975:
963:
943:
923:
896:
879:
864:
838:
812:
797:
781:
763:
727:
696:
695:
693:
690:
687:
686:
658:
657:
655:
652:
625:wore the long
623:Gaelic Ireland
540:
537:
531:and the wider
468:King George II
452:King George IV
421:
418:
405:sewn-in pleats
369:Murray Pittock
286:
283:
246:
243:
237:and a ruffled
81:
80:The great kilt
78:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1882:
1881:
1870:
1867:
1865:
1862:
1861:
1859:
1847:
1843:
1842:
1837:
1825:
1821:
1820:
1814:
1812:
1809:
1808:
1804:
1798:
1796:0-521-24645-8
1792:
1787:
1786:
1780:
1775:
1771:
1770:
1764:
1760:
1754:
1750:
1745:
1744:
1738:
1734:
1730:
1728:0-7134-1894-X
1724:
1720:
1715:
1714:
1710:
1702:
1698:
1695:
1690:
1687:
1683:
1679:
1676:
1671:
1668:
1663:
1659:
1655:
1648:
1645:
1641:
1637:
1634:
1629:
1626:
1613:
1609:
1608:
1601:
1598:
1586:
1582:
1576:
1573:
1568:
1567:The Economist
1561:
1558:
1545:
1541:
1535:
1532:
1519:
1515:
1511:
1505:
1502:
1498:
1485:
1481:
1477:
1470:
1467:
1462:
1459:. Edinburgh:
1458:
1457:
1452:
1446:
1443:
1440:, p. 70.
1439:
1434:
1431:
1427:
1422:
1419:
1414:
1408:
1404:
1400:
1393:
1390:
1385:
1379:
1374:
1373:
1364:
1361:
1358:, p. 73.
1357:
1352:
1349:
1344:
1338:
1336:
1331:
1330:Dunbar (1979)
1326:
1323:
1319:
1318:Dunbar (1979)
1314:
1311:
1306:
1305:
1300:
1294:
1291:
1287:
1282:
1279:
1276:, p. 78.
1275:
1270:
1267:
1263:
1258:
1255:
1251:
1246:
1243:
1238:
1237:
1229:
1226:
1222:
1217:
1214:
1210:
1205:
1202:
1197:
1196:
1188:
1185:
1182:, p. 53.
1181:
1176:
1173:
1161:
1160:
1155:
1151:
1145:
1142:
1137:
1131:
1127:
1123:
1117:
1114:
1109:
1103:
1099:
1092:
1089:
1084:
1078:
1074:
1070:
1064:
1061:
1057:
1052:
1049:
1044:
1037:
1034:
1029:
1023:
1018:
1016:
1012:
1009:, p. 27.
1008:
1003:
1000:
997:, p. 67.
996:
991:
988:
984:
979:
976:
973:, p. 13.
972:
967:
964:
959:
958:
953:
947:
944:
939:
938:
933:
927:
924:
920:
919:
912:
911:
906:
905:Scott, Walter
900:
897:
892:
891:
883:
880:
876:
871:
869:
865:
852:
848:
842:
839:
826:
822:
816:
813:
808:
801:
798:
792:
785:
782:
779:
775:
772:
767:
764:
751:
747:
746:
738:
736:
734:
732:
728:
715:
711:
707:
701:
698:
691:
674:
670:
663:
660:
653:
651:
649:
645:
641:
637:
632:
629:
624:
620:
615:
613:
609:
605:
602:, June 1944,
601:
597:
588:
583:
579:
577:
573:
569:
564:
562:
558:
550:
545:
538:
536:
534:
530:
526:
520:
518:
514:
509:
507:
503:
498:
496:
492:
488:
479:
475:
473:
470:imposed the "
469:
465:
457:
453:
450:
446:
442:
435:
431:
430:Henry Raeburn
426:
419:
417:
414:
410:
406:
401:
399:
395:
390:
386:
378:
372:
370:
366:
362:
358:
352:
350:
349:Celtic Review
346:
345:John Sinclair
342:
338:
334:
330:
326:
321:
319:
315:
311:
307:
303:
295:
291:
284:
282:
280:
276:
271:
269:
264:
262:
258:
253:
252:fèileadh beag
244:
242:
240:
236:
232:
228:
227:formal attire
224:
220:
215:
209:
207:
203:
198:
193:
185:
184:Pompeo Batoni
181:
177:
176:
171:
166:
161:
158:
156:
151:
146:
141:
139:
133:
131:
125:
123:
119:
114:
108:
103:
95:
91:
86:
79:
77:
75:
72:
68:
64:
60:
55:
53:
49:
45:
41:
37:
33:
29:
20:
16:
1840:
1828:, retrieved
1824:the original
1818:
1784:
1768:
1742:
1718:
1689:
1670:
1661:
1657:
1647:
1628:
1616:, retrieved
1606:
1600:
1588:. Retrieved
1584:
1575:
1566:
1560:
1548:. Retrieved
1543:
1534:
1522:. Retrieved
1518:the original
1513:
1504:
1496:
1487:. Retrieved
1479:
1469:
1455:
1445:
1433:
1421:
1402:
1398:
1392:
1371:
1363:
1351:
1342:
1333:
1325:
1313:
1303:
1293:
1281:
1269:
1257:
1245:
1235:
1228:
1216:
1204:
1194:
1187:
1175:
1163:. Retrieved
1159:The National
1157:
1150:Purser, John
1144:
1125:
1116:
1097:
1091:
1072:
1063:
1051:
1042:
1036:
1027:
1002:
990:
978:
966:
956:
946:
936:
926:
916:
909:
899:
889:
882:
855:. Retrieved
850:
841:
829:. Retrieved
824:
815:
806:
800:
790:
784:
766:
754:, retrieved
744:
718:. Retrieved
709:
700:
677:. Retrieved
672:
662:
644:Scots Guards
633:
616:
592:
565:
554:
539:Military use
521:
510:
506:Walter Scott
499:
484:
461:
445:David Wilkie
428:Portrait by
402:
397:
373:
353:
348:
329:Walter Scott
324:
322:
301:
299:
272:
265:
260:
256:
248:
210:
197:léine croich
189:
173:
163:
159:
142:
134:
126:
113:feileadh mòr
102:belted plaid
99:
73:
66:
58:
56:
52:walking kilt
51:
47:
39:
36:belted plaid
27:
25:
15:
1830:28 December
1438:Dunbar 1979
1426:Dunbar 1979
1356:Mackay 1924
1286:Mackay 1924
1274:Mackay 1924
1262:Dunbar 1979
1221:Mackay 1924
1209:Dunbar 1979
1180:Dunbar 1979
1056:Dunbar 1979
1007:Mackay 1924
995:Mackay 1924
983:Mackay 1924
971:Dunbar 1979
673:Maps.NLS.uk
612:Bill Millin
585:Men of the
549:Black Watch
1858:Categories
1848:: Military
1664:(1): 1–12.
1618:6 December
756:6 December
710:Dictionary
692:References
604:Lord Lovat
535:identity.
495:Jacobitism
411:is one of
385:supporters
327:, and Sir
314:Lancashire
186:(1765–66).
138:drawstring
48:small kilt
40:great kilt
1739:(1971) .
1071:(2009) .
576:Dress Act
487:romantics
472:Dress Act
377:Rothiemay
231:white-tie
71:Old Norse
57:The noun
1697:Archived
1678:Archived
1636:Archived
1612:archived
1453:(1893).
1301:(1862).
934:(1924).
774:Archived
750:archived
720:1 August
714:Archived
568:Jacobite
525:Victoria
343:, while
261:philabeg
223:Lowlands
1711:Sources
1497:PanAlba
551:c. 1743
398:Travels
341:Tyndrum
257:filibeg
1793:
1755:
1725:
1590:10 May
1489:30 May
1409:
1380:
1335:Wodrow
1165:22 May
1132:
1104:
1079:
857:19 May
831:18 May
706:"kilt"
679:6 June
533:Celtic
456:tights
449:kilted
310:Quaker
206:canvas
122:tartan
118:Gaelic
94:musket
74:kjalta
1550:5 May
1524:6 May
654:Notes
628:léine
619:kerns
600:D-Day
566:Many
389:Scots
365:Banks
312:from
239:jabot
214:léine
204:, or
202:linen
155:tunic
150:léine
145:cloak
90:plaid
65:verb
63:Scots
44:cloak
1832:2006
1791:ISBN
1753:ISBN
1723:ISBN
1620:2010
1592:2023
1552:2024
1526:2007
1491:2023
1407:ISBN
1378:ISBN
1337:Mss.
1167:2020
1130:ISBN
1102:ISBN
1077:ISBN
859:2023
833:2023
758:2010
722:2008
681:2023
617:The
308:, a
130:belt
100:The
67:kilt
59:kilt
32:kilt
26:The
621:of
432:of
396:'s
259:or
241:).
50:or
38:or
1860::
1846:IE
1844:,
1751:.
1662:47
1660:.
1656:.
1610:,
1583:.
1542:.
1512:.
1499:.)
1482:.
1478:.
1156:.
1014:^
867:^
849:.
823:.
730:^
708:.
671:.
646:,
642:,
281:.
132:.
1850:.
1761:.
1731:.
1623:.
1594:.
1554:.
1528:.
1493:.
1463:.
1415:.
1169:.
1138:.
1110:.
1085:.
861:.
835:.
795:.
761:.
724:.
683:.
381:'
104:(
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