105:)." Something these two regions had in common with their dress is that what people wore was an indication of their social status. In Arabic regions such as Iraq and Palestine, the way men covered their heads, turban or shawl, was related to their status. In Turkey, they also used headgear to show status in addition to layering clothes and using certain "richer" materials. Since Arabic clothing came long before Turkish and other regions' clothing, it's clear it had a large influence on Islamic fashion for all the subsequent cultures. A big part of the current Islamic fashion market is women's headdresses. Although men and women were both supposed to dress modestly, "The veil is a vehicle for distinguishing between women and men and a means of controlling male sexual desire". There are four main styles of wearing a veil or headscarf in Islamic tradition. The first, is named the Hijab. The hijab is made with one or two scarves, covering both the head and the neck. The face may remain unveiled. This style is most widely seen in the West, as well as still being popular within Middle Eastern countries. The next veil is called the Niqab, which covers the entirety of the body as well as the face, while leaving an opening for the eyes. There are two main styles of Niqab. A half-niqab is identified by a scarf veiling the face, while leaving the eyes and part of the forehead uncovered. A Gulf niqab only leaves narrow slits for the eyes. A third veil is the Chador, which is a full-body length shawl, pinned closed at the neck. The head and body are covered in this style, while leaving the face visible. This style is commonly seen in Iran. A fourth veiling style is called the Burqa. The burqa is a full-body covering where the entire face and body are veiled and there is a mesh screen in front of the eyes.
237:. Despite big designer brands making an entrance into the Muslim world, there is still a distinct lack of opportunities for young Muslim designers. This is because in most Muslim countries fashion is not taken seriously as a career path, instead math science and engineering have long taken priority. Recently, with more women entering the workforce the demand for fashion education has increased. The Creative Space Beirut School of Design is the future of the industry. It provides free education, while also putting emphasis on respecting cultural differences of students in order to build a safe community and allow talented young artists to create freely.
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Muslim community through humanitarian aid work and increasing visibility for Hijabi women in fashion, Aden famously took a step back from her career when she revealed that she was becoming less and less in control of her ability to stay true to her Muslim values due to violations of contract clauses, and feelings of being tokenized by the organizations that she worked with. Aiden stated in one 2021 interview with BBC âI just decided I'm done with the NGO world using me for 'my beautiful story of courage and hope'
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back to the 13th centuryâmen and women from this time period both wore a simple tunic dress with a loose garment over their head. The difference between the genders was that women had to cover more of their body, and usually had more accessories and embellishments. Another region that largely influenced modern
Islamic dress is Turkey. It was different from Arabic dress in that " traditional Turkish ensemble for either men or women consisted of loose fitting trousers (
491:, criticised the fashion labels, saying the clothing was not âsocially responsibleâ and âfrom a certain point of view ... promotes the shutting away of women's bodiesâ. When the interviewer suggested certain women made the decision of their own free will to cover themselves, Rossignol replied: âOf course, they are women who make the choice ... there were also ... American negroes who were in favour of slavery.â
774:, designer and co-owner of Vela Scarves Marwa Atik is another example of Muslim women taking charge of their religious and fashion identity. Since the fashion industry hasn't been marketed much towards Muslim women, Atik took it upon herself to edit existing scarfs and create designs for her friends from her garage, until the weight and volume of her work became too much, and her sister decided to step in.
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hijab, which she emphasizes is her choice, and emphasize to followers that one can be fashionable and wear a hijab. The year 2016 saw modesty going mainstream in
Western culture. The first hijabi posed on the cover of Playboy Magazine, Anniesa well-known New York Fashion Week show had all of the models wearing modest clothing and Hijabs.
498:âIt is with anger and exasperation that we have been once again confronted with the verbal violence of a political leader,â wrote NâDongo. âAsked about the false debate on âIslamic fashionâ she came out with scandalous propositions that feed the confusion and stigmatisation of Muslim women and the millions of transported slaves.â
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industry. These personalities created a trend whereby they shared their stylish modest outfits, tips and tutorials while other people admired their style thus gaining them big followership. They were able to provide what the mainstream fashion industry was not giving them and the modest wearer. This
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Similarly, Somali-American model and humanitarian, Halima Aden, who is credited with being one of the first Hijabi women to appear on the cover of Vogue, spoke out in 2020 about the darker side of being a trailblazer for Muslim women within the fashion industry. After setting out to give back to the
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There are many Muslim fashion influencers on
Instagram and TikTok, either showcasing their own modest fashion or giving tips to others who dress modestly. The Urban Hijabi, run by Nabeeha Fakih Sheikh has over 70,000 followers. Sheikh told a reporter that the goal of her account was to showcase her
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has become an important part for their appearance: they are increasingly looking for fashion that doesn't set them apart from the rest of society. With the rapid growth of digital networks and social media users, the need of these âdigital platformsâ is increasing and the purchasing power of young
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To understand the controversy over
Islamic fashion and how it has evolved, it's vital to understand the historical and religious meaning behind the clothing. It's important to remember that the specific styles of clothing vary among time periods and across geographical regions. Arabic dress dates
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online may be motivated by a mixture of religious, ethical, political and commercial concerns which grow out of their personal experiences of living in a multicultural urban environment and which reflect and respond to the desire expressed by many young Muslim women living in the West to be both
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Considering the controversial nature of the topic, a plethora of reactions was expected and it was varied in nature and sources. Internal reception was varied, encompassing reactions such as the one by fashion graduate
Tabinda-Kauser Ishaq, who designed a âpoppy
248:, as all creative and artistic fields, does not exist in a vacuum, it has to relate with the socio-political culture in which it exists, and therefore the way such culture responds to it. Islamic Fashion witnessed a series of commentaries since mid 2014, when
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spent an estimated $ 266bn on clothing in 2014, a number that is projected to grow up to $ 484bn by 2019. Despite the fact that the figures show the purchase of clothing that cannot be translated directly into
Islamic fashion the trend clearly proves that the
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noticed, we are witnessing the emergence of a segment they called âMuslim
Futuristsâ: people who choose to live a life they feel is both faithful and modern, and who believe that both of these aspects are their right. It's the first recognition of a Muslim
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Islamic
Fashion and Design Council (IFDC) is a platform that provides support, initiatives and programmes to help make the industry more cohesive for Islamic fashion by bringing the industry players together to help them to generate more opportunities.
359:âIt is difficult for me to feel excited and grateful for a fashion line that supposedly caters to me and the requirements of my faith when it feels as though the overwhelming message is that the only desirable Muslim is a wealthy one; that Muslim
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as a phenomenon stemmed from the combination of a set of
Islamic practices (in which the need to cover a specific set of body parts is present) and of the rising need and desire to include these specific clothing items in a broader
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mainly from Muslim states. In the United Arab
Emirates, particularly Dubai, are steadily laying the ground to become the Islamic Fashion center with a highly curated Designers District and housing of the leading Islamic brands.
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present their collections whether in Gulf States or online only while omitting the opportunities and growing demand presented in Western countries as it expresses Amani Al-Khatahtbeh, the editor-in-chief of MuslimGirl.net:
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nowadays is playing crucial role in promoting exclusivist Muslim identities as well as is enabling unexpected convergences and connections between individuals of different backgrounds and between the demands of
387:âacceptableâ only when it's appropriated and managed by major corporationsâ Western regimes that, in other words, have the power to permit and regulate what is deemed tolerable, capitalizable and not? Why can't
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on a series of different levels, from the political, to the religious, to the cultural. Different positions are taken by different participants in the discussion of the politics and cultures of Islamic fashion.
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site. These Instagrammers fill a gap that mainstream media has still to cover: inspiration and advice for women who want to maintain religious standards of modesty without sacrificing personal style. Fashion
447:, who accused designers catering to the Islamic audience of taking part in the âenslavement of womenâ. BergĂ©âs statement stirred different reactions, particularly regarding this part of his statement:
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Muslim and Muslim fashion in Indonesia is experiencing rapid progress. Various local Indonesian products are now known to the world with musilim fashion estimated to be worth around 13.5 billion USD.
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Vela Scarves is a scarf fashion line based out of California, U.S.A., started up by Atik in 2009 and officially launched in 2010 with partner and sister Tasneem Atik Sabri. This brand focuses on
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feel strongly about, since it covers a wide variety of issues and problems that have a history of not being addressed and that are only now seeing recognition on a larger, more global scale.
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has risen the wave of criticism related to both the commercialization of religion and veiled religious propaganda. On the other hand, some scholars interpret the matter the other way:
48:, encouraging Muslims to be both covered and fashionable, modest and beautiful,â is relatively fresh: Islamic Fashion as a particular phenomenon started appearing toward the 1980s.
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craze that has been going on this past years with big brands in fashion, celebrities and independent entrepreneurs on this movement. This trend is seeing mainstream brands like
297:â for Remembrance Day, who welcomed the arrival of mainstream Islam fashion and deemed it âa good move for the business of fashionâ, and the one by Mariah Idrissi, the first
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styles for Muslim women, with "empowerment, modern flair, and individual style" in mind. Social media has made it possible for users around the globe to contribute to the
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It is a continuing growing trend: some women designed their own clothes that suited their needs because the mainstream market could not provide it, these personalities on
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455:. "Rather than covering women up, "we must teach women to revolt, to take their clothes off, to learn to live like most of the women in the rest of the world."â
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are promoting ethical commerce as part of their revenue goes to charity. The past decade has seen the diversification and spread of Islamic fashion commerce in
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to be beautiful and well-turned out, and buying more stuff than you need, and being judged by your clothes - both of which are the opposite of Islamic values.â
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Furthermore, the Pew Research predicts that the global population of Muslims will equal the number of Christians by 2050; hence, the purchasing power of young
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is still in its early development stage; however, according to the numbers provided by the Global Islamic Economy Indicator the dynamics will rapidly change:
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more accepting to couture that isn't Western-centric. In September 2015, Swedish brand H&M was the first of international fashion retailers to feature a
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The premise of the cultural appropriation side of the discourse, addressed online by different sources, can be summed up by Harisâ words when she states how
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are trying to present their collections related to Muslim religious observances, however, without any visible attempts to single-handedly secure the Muslim
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in the world. Some Muslim fashion products in Indonesia that are well known abroad include Rabbani, Elzatta, Zoya, Zaskia Mecca (ZM), Dian Pelangi.
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collections from these huge brands and huge designers if they're only being made available to people overseas who are already well aware of
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decide the parameters of their Islamic identity and sexual morality, without facing harsh scrutiny from within and outside the âimaginedâ
661:(Organization of Islamic Cooperation) countries, local clothing companies that are local culture - driven dominate the market: a special
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inspired and helped many other young people who were following them. More and more people started sharing their modest styles on
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On this ethical side of the discourse the argument made by Sabah Haneen Choudhry, a third-year Social Anthropology student at
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Dubai, after opening Design District, is on its way to become the Islamic fashion capital as well as the global centre of the
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Islamic Fashion market nowadays presents the rapidly expanding niche that is still relatively empty in a global scale. Big
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wearing and posting on their social media profiles the Islamic headscarf, the hijab and Beyoncé dressing in an abaya.
403:âs range âlooks like an appropriation of existing traditions without giving them any real recognition.â As the IFDC
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consumers tends to grow over the years. Apart from the traditional websites as online stores, it's possible to use
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and around the world, both on and off the Web, with some entrepreneurs catering to the higher end of the market.
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785:, and is now serving as a platform to introduce Islamic fashion to the world. Vela has a 104,000 following on
649:âThis clothing is beautiful, and the beauty is made for every woman.â- Indonesian Fashion Designer Amy Atmanto
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A petition was launched by a French student, Hawa NâDongo, on change.org calling for Rossignol to be punished:
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Tarlo E. Hijab in London: Metamorphosis, Resonance and Effects. Journal of Material Culture. Vol. 12(2): 138
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367:. And that ultimately western society will always have the monopoly on what is fashionable and relevant.â
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1424:"Meet The Hijabi Fashionistas Of Instagram: Chic Muslim Women Share Their Modest Style On Social Media."
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coming up with modest collections they never did before. We are also seeing many celebrities including
336:- buy, buy, buy and be judged by what you wear. Muslim fashion is teetering between asserting a Muslim
210:, a member of the Dubai Islamic Economy Development Centre board, said in the interview to Bloomberg:
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Shepherd, Julianne Escobedo. "YSL Partner Slams Designers Who Cater to Muslim Women as 'Enslavement'"
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Gökariksel B., McLarney E. "Muslim Women, Consumer Capitalism, and the Islamic Culture Industry."
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Considering the slow realization of emerging capacities by the global brands the niche of Islamic
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Haris, Ruqaiya. "D&G's Hijab Range Is Aimed at People like Me â so Why Do I Feel Excluded?"
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Jirousek, Charlotte. âIslamic Clothing,â 2004. http://char.txa.cornell.edu/islamicclothes.htm.
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in some countries and limiting regulations for doing sports pushed for transformation of
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Sanghani, Radhika. "Why British Muslims Need a 'poppy Hijab' to Remember World War One."
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Y-Sing L., Solovieva D. Islamic Fashion's Expanding Market Attracts Shariah Financiers
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1561:"Follow These Instagram Influencers Now for the Ultimate Modest Fashion Inspiration"
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379:, was that in 2016, the rise in Islamic fashion must be seen as a political matter:
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Marketing and Ethics: What Islamic Ethics Have Contributed and the Challenges Ahead
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Willsher, Kim. "French Women's Rights Minister Accused of Racism over Term 'negro'"
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Alawa, Laila. "Badass Young Women Are Showing the World What "Muslim Styleâ IFDC."
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Which, as Julianne Shepherd writes in her article for Jezebel, expresses a rather
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578:, etc.), notably, contributed to the growth of the wide range of Islamic Fashion
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when the number of Muslim consumers rockets. However, currently the world-famous
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2019:
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The State Global Islamic Economy report for 2018/19 revealed that Indonesia was
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appendages such as Islamic fashion is also greatly increased its sales through
736:âYoung hijabi Instagrammers like Maryam Asadullah, Sobia Masood and many other
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Sanghani, Radhika. "How the Hijab Went High-fashion and Divided Muslim Women."
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Shabeeh, Rabiya. "Social Media Providing Platform to Promote Islamic Fashion"
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from other countries - especially those targeting the younger generation of
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companies is emerging globally, some of the most established producers and
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would be likely occupied by Middle Eastern enterprises and start-ups. As
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The Future of World Religions: Population Growth Projections, 2010-2050
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1513:"V E L Aâą by Marwa Atik (@velascarves) âą Instagram photos and videos"
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Manning, Emily. "Exploring the Backlash against High-fashion Hijabs."
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Halime, Farah. "Meet the First Hijab-wearing Model in an H&M Ad."
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in a video designed to encourage consumers to recycle their clothes.
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Brugnoni, Antea. "Modest Fashion: The Way to Multicultural Fashion."
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Sanghani R. How the hijab went high-fashion and divided Muslim women
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Sanghani R. How the hijab went high-fashion and divided Muslim women
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range was aimed at people like her, and yet made her feel excluded:
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1266:"French Fashion Mogul Pierre Bergé Hits out at 'Islamic' Clothing."
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Minthe C. Exclusive: The Dolce & Gabbana Abaya Collection Debut
681:- are quickly gaining tractions in their local markets and beyond.
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17, no. 4 (2003): 567â90. https://doi.org/10.1177/0891243203253541
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Tarlo E. "Hijab in London: Metamorphosis, Resonance and Effects."
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defence. Another strong criticism came from French's minister for
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will steadily grow that presents new opportunities for both young
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understandably come from Muslim-majority countries. However, new
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Tarlo, Emma. "Hijab Online." Interventions 12.2 (2010): 209-25.
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Laurence Rossignol, who, speaking to BFTV over the decision by
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The most recent developments in the field have caused a varied
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SMI - Sistema Moda Italia - Federazione Tessile Moda, Milano.
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Petrilla M. The next big untapped fashion market: Muslim women
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sector, which explicitly forges links between religiosity and
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showcasing their personal style on the popular photo-sharing
1387:"The Impact of Social Media on the Modest Fashion Industry."
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is acceptable, but only when legitimised by a major western
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and inclusive of it? Really, it's here in the U.S. or other
1403:"The Impact of Social Media on the Modest Fashion Industry"
436:, a rather controversial statement by former fashion mogul
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fashionable and modest.â - Emma Tarlo, HIJAB ONLINE, 2010
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Asadullah is just one of many fashion-forward hijab-clad
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Young generation - main target of Islamic Fashion market.
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Gandhi L. DKNY Launches First Ever Ramadan Fashion Line
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It's clearly a controversial subject and one that many
451:â"In life you have to chose the side of freedom," said
320:, author of Love In A Headscarf, who pointed out how,
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launch in this market is definitely a positive thing".
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where that kind of visibility would go a long way.â -
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are starting paying more attention to observances like
158:. As for the seasonal profit the famous companies like
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La Ferla R. For Ramadan, Courting the Muslim Shopper
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1651:. Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht. 2014
1654:Killian, Caitlin. âThe Other Side of the Veil.â
1575:"Who are the Muslim Youth in Indonesia? - Janio"
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348:of Islamic fashion, Ruqaiya Haris explained how
1017:State of the Global Islamic Economy Report 2015
312:A reminder of the religious connotation of the
233:even if being challenged by the Turkish Muslim
1644:. Volume 6, Number 3, Fall 2010, pp. 1â18
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844:as the country that develops the best Muslim
740:personalities have made a huge impact in the
732:people looked up to for fashion inspiration:
8:
1802:Timeline of clothing and textiles technology
1236:Torkia, Dina. "DESIGNER ABAYAS, WHATâS NEW?"
728:started getting attention. They became the
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598:â the entrepreneurs involved in promoting
432:Public comment came also from outside the
256:fashion line, as many others did such as
71:leaving the space for the emerging young
624:by saving time and costs, starting from
487:to produce and promote fashion aimed at
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657:are quite fragmented globally. In most
214:âThe lack of a global Islamic clothing
1642:Journal of Middle East Women's Studies
1219:"Supermodel Halima Aden: 'Why I quit'"
1004:"A Brief History of the Veil in Islam"
980:"A Brief History of the Veil in Islam"
808:is acting as a catalyst in making the
195:, interview to Fortune, 15 July 2015
7:
1945:Social media in the fashion industry
40:. The global growth of âan Islamic
93:), topped by a variety of jackets (
463:commentary behind the travesty of
405:Islamic Fashion and Design Council
218:presents a unique opportunity for
179:âWhat's the point of having these
14:
117:Moslema in style fashion show in
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1787:History of clothing and textiles
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566:and spurred the activity on the
543:. Moreover, the Islamic Fashion
1720:Environmental impact of fashion
1647:Abbas J. A., Abdulrahman A.-A.
440:, life and business partner of
344:On the subject of the high-end
383:âMy issue is this: why is the
140:industry will be flourishing.
28:in style fashion show at PWTC.
1:
640:Islamic fashion online stores
558:Partially, the opposition to
16:Fashion in Muslim communities
1604:www.goodnewsfromindonesia.id
1427:International Business Times
984:Facing History and Ourselves
582:. However, the emergence of
208:Abdul Rahman Saif Al Ghurair
109:Economics of Islamic fashion
1628:Journal of Material Culture
789:, and a 7,500 following on
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1792:History of Western fashion
828:Islamic Fashion by Country
522:The growing popularity of
510:Islamic fashion on the web
305:ad who said that, "Seeing
124:Today the Islamic Fashion
80:History of Islamic fashion
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1797:History of fashion design
1766:
1706:Index of fashion articles
1703:
1633:Tarlo E. "Hijab Online."
753:that changed the view of
2177:British country clothing
1735:Fashion design copyright
590:lifestyle magazines and
252:launched its first ever
2536:Anti-sweatshop movement
667:Islamic/modest clothing
653:Clothing companies and
103:entĂąri, kaftan, ĂŒĂ§ etek
2587:Chinoiserie in fashion
1444:Orange County Register
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689:There is undeniably a
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526:worldwide among young
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1598:Rizqiyah, Aslamatur.
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350:Dolce & Gabbana's
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301:-wearing model in an
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2498:South Korean fashion
1960:Trickle-down fashion
1898:Fashion illustration
1883:Fashion entrepreneur
1760:Semiotics of fashion
1656:Gender & Society
1637:12.2 (2010): 209â25.
960:char.txa.cornell.edu
530:has proved that the
475:companies including
241:Politics and culture
2546:Sustainable fashion
2513:Vietnamese clothing
2044:Western dress codes
1918:Fashion photography
1893:Fashion forecasting
1037:Pew Research Center
607:Especially for the
485:Dolce & Gabbana
477:Marks & Spencer
412:who wants the best
401:Dolce & Gabbana
307:Dolce & Gabbana
282:Dolce & Gabbana
193:Amani Al-Khatahtbeh
101:), and long coats (
2629:Fashion portal
2577:Ballet and fashion
2561:Zero-waste fashion
2277:Sportswear fashion
1955:Trickle-up fashion
1940:Red carpet fashion
1908:Fashion journalism
1903:Fashion influencer
1225:. 14 January 2021.
1165:2017-03-31 at the
877:Islam and clothing
520:
445:Yves Saint Laurent
428:External criticism
318:Shelina Janmohamed
288:Internal criticism
122:
30:
2637:
2636:
2604:Music and fashion
2414:
2413:
2364:Thrift store chic
2192:Cruise collection
2154:
2153:
2079:Black lounge suit
1863:Designer clothing
1858:Clothing industry
1725:Fashion accessory
1630:. Vol. 12(2): 138
1517:www.instagram.com
1377:. 28 January 2014
1331:.18 February 2016
1119:.18 February 2016
802:social networking
553:the United States
434:Islamic community
346:commercialization
262:Oscar de la Renta
235:clothing industry
223:fashion designers
189:Western countries
69:Western countries
2662:
2650:Islamic clothing
2627:
2626:
2625:
2582:Capsule wardrobe
2541:Circular fashion
2523:Fashion activism
2488:Nigerian fashion
2483:Japanese fashion
2441:Filipino fashion
2431:Canadian fashion
2426:American fashion
2165:
2040:
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1409:. Archived from
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1135:. 3 January 2016
1133:Style.com/Arabia
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887:Consumer culture
810:fashion industry
783:fashion industry
749:and it became a
564:Islamic clothing
393:Muslim community
326:fashion industry
53:public discourse
38:fashion industry
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2503:Swedish fashion
2493:Russian fashion
2471:Italian fashion
2466:Israeli fashion
2461:Iranian fashion
2436:Chinese fashion
2410:
2305:
2301:Vintage fashion
2289:Ghetto fabulous
2228:
2182:Business casual
2150:
2117:
2038:
1970:
1964:
1878:Fashion capital
1868:Digital fashion
1839:
1816:
1773:
1764:
1755:Fashion tourism
1708:
1699:
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1609:
1607:
1606:(in Indonesian)
1597:
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1563:. 16 June 2019.
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1316:. 30 Mar. 2016.
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1172:. 25 Sept. 2015
1167:Wayback Machine
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1465:"The Designer"
1456:
1431:
1429:. 10 Nov. 2015
1416:
1413:on 2016-01-25.
1407:ifdcouncil.org
1394:
1392:. 06 Jan. 2016
1379:
1363:
1361:. 31 Oct. 2015
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1301:. 30 Mar. 2016
1288:
1286:. 30 Mar. 2016
1273:
1271:. 30 Mar. 2016
1258:
1256:. 16 Aug. 2015
1243:
1241:. 07 Jan. 2016
1228:
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1208:. 11 Jan. 2016
1192:
1190:. 18 Feb. 2016
1174:
1152:
1150:. 10 Nov. 2105
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1121:
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1089:
1087:. 9 April 2015
1073:
1071:. 15 July 2015
1057:
1055:. 24 June 2015
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1021:Dinar Standard
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867:Women in Islam
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755:modest fashion
742:modest fashion
726:blogging sites
715:Kim Kardashian
695:Tommy Hilfiger
691:modest fashion
686:
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620:to market the
586:alongside the
511:
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469:womenâs rights
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1635:Interventions
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1489:"Our Purpose"
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1359:Khaleej Times
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1117:The Telegraph
1114:
1109:
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1103:. 9 July 2014
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27:
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2551:Slow fashion
2531:Anti-fashion
2508:Thai fashion
2169:Smart casual
2140:
2089:Evening gown
1928:Fast fashion
1873:Fashion blog
1835:Fashion week
1830:Fashion show
1812:21st century
1807:19th century
1655:
1648:
1641:
1634:
1627:
1608:. Retrieved
1603:
1593:
1582:. Retrieved
1578:
1569:
1555:
1544:. Retrieved
1540:
1537:"Marwa Atik"
1531:
1520:. Retrieved
1516:
1507:
1496:. Retrieved
1492:
1483:
1472:. Retrieved
1468:
1459:
1448:. Retrieved
1446:. 2014-05-27
1443:
1434:
1426:
1419:
1411:the original
1406:
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1284:ID.vice.com
1239:DINA TORKIA
330:consumerism
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2592:Dress code
2419:By country
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2267:Athleisure
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1584:2024-06-26
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1375:Assaif.org
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