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versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic
Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas.
324:). The box swings from the right to the position shown and presses against the control rods (2). Where there is a hole the rod passes through the card and is unmoved whereas if the hole is not punched the rod is pushed to the left. Each rod acts upon a hook (3). When the rod is pushed in, the hook moves out of position to the left, a rod that is not pushed in leaves its hook in place. A beam (4) then rises under the hooks and those hooks in the rest location are raised; the hooks that have been displaced are not moved by the beam. Each hook can have multiple cords (5). The cords pass through a guide (6) and are attached to their
411:. As well as the capital expense, the Jacquard machines are more costly to maintain as they are complex and require higher skilled personnel; an expensive design system is required to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly a card-cutting machine. Weaving is more costly since Jacquard mechanisms are more likely to produce faults than dobby or cam shedding. Also, the looms will not run as quickly and down-time will increase because it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. For these reasons it is best to weave larger batches with mechanical Jacquards.
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621:(Harvard Mark I) received program instructions from a paper tape punched with holes, similar to Jacquard's string of cards. Later computers executed programs from higher-speed memory, though cards were commonly used to load the programs into memory. Punched cards remained in use in computing up until the mid-1980s.
559:. All 58 pages of the prayer book were made of silk, woven using a Jacquard machine, using black and gray thread. The pages have elaborate borders with text and pictures of saints. It is estimated that 200,000 to 500,000 punch cards were necessary to encode the pages, at 160 threads per cm (400 threads per inch).
1172:(by Alphonse de Lamartine) in 1883. That earlier title is the true "first book 'printed' by computer". Over a two-year period, 50-60 copies of Livre de prières were produced. According to book historian Michael Laird, several hundred thousand cards (estimated between 106,000 and 500,000) were required.
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introduced the principle of applying a perforated band of paper. A continuous roll of paper was punched by hand, in sections, each of which represented one lash or tread, and the length of the roll was determined by the number of shots in each repeat of pattern. The
Jacquard machine then evolved from
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cards and his square prism (or card "cylinder"): he is credited with having fully perforated each of its four sides, replacing
Vaucanson's perforated "barrel". Jacquard's machine contained eight rows of needles and uprights, where Vaucanson had a double row. This modification enabled him to increase
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which were joined to form a continuous chain. The
Jacquards often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats,
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One of the chief advantages claimed for the
Jacquard machine was that unlike previous damask-weaving machines, in which the figuring shed was usually drawn once for every four shots, with the new apparatus, it could be drawn on every shot, thus producing a fabric with greater definition of outline.
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products associated with
Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics and damask bed linen. Jacquard weaving uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Jacquard weaving can also be used to create fabrics that
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made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of complex pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning. The process can also be used for patterned knitwear and
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in 1983. Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed
Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends. That avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite
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Jacquard-driven looms, although relatively common in the textile industry, are not as ubiquitous as dobby looms which are usually faster and much cheaper to operate. However, dobby looms are not capable of producing so many different weaves from one
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It is recorded that in 1855, a
Frenchman adapted the Jacquard mechanism to a system by which it could be worked by electro-magnets. There was significant interest, but trials were not successful, and the development was soon forgotten.
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must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule the more warp control required the greater the expense. So it is not economical to purchase
Jacquard machines if one can make do with a
566:(World's Fair). It was designed by R. P. J. Hervier, woven by J. A. Henry and published by A. Roux. It took two years and almost 50 trials to get correct. An estimated 50 or 60 copies were produced.
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On the diagram, the cards are fastened into a continuous chain (1) which passes over a square box. At each quarter rotation a new card is presented to the
Jacquard head which represents one row (one "pick" of the
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with warp ends to be pulled up were manually selected by a second operator, the draw boy, not the weaver. The work was slow and labour-intensive, and the complexity of the pattern was limited by practical factor.
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could be developed for the production of sophisticated patterns. He possibly combined mechanical elements of other inventors, but certainly innovated. His machine was generally similar to
655:, an organisation comprising 9 national European textile machinery associations) ITMA is "the world's largest international textile and garment technology exhibition".
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through which the shuttle carrying the weft will pass. A loom with a 400 hook head might have four threads connected to each hook, resulting in a fabric that is 1600
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are then tied into the existing warp with the help of a knotting robot which ties each new thread on individually. Even for a small loom with only a few thousand
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took the idea of using punched cards to store information a step further when he created a punched card tabulating machine which he used to input data for the
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laced together into a continuous sequence. Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card, with one complete card corresponding to one row of the design.
248:. He introduced a new kind of machine which was able to work the yarns faster and more precisely. Over the years, improvements to the loom were ongoing.
602:. A large data processing industry using punched-card technology was developed in the first half of the twentieth century—dominated initially by the
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the figuring capacity of the machine. In his first machine, he supported the harness by knotted cords, which he elevated by a single trap board.
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Both the Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor. This mechanism is probably one of the most important
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Manufacture of the volume employed the Jacquard method (Joseph-Marie Jacquard, 1752-1834) of using punch cards which J.A. Henry first used with
582:. The ability to change the pattern of the loom's weave by simply changing cards was an important conceptual precursor to the development of
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The Jacquard Machine Analyzed & Explained. The preparation of Jacquard cards and practical hints to learners of Jacquard designing
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The Jacquard machine analyzed and explained: the preparation of Jacquard cards and practical hints to learners of Jacquard designing
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355:. Modern jacquard machines are controlled by computers in place of the original punched cards and can have thousands of hooks.
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822:"To James Melvin, of Pinlaws, County Fife, N.B., for improvements in jacquard machines.—[dated 10th May, 1865.]"
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Les laboureurs. Poème tiré de Jocelyn. Reproduit en caractères tissés avec license des propriétaires éditeurs
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The threading of a Jacquard machine is so labor-intensive that many looms are threaded only once. Subsequent
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The term "Jacquard loom" is somewhat inaccurate. It is the "Jacquard head" that adapts to a great many
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A pinnacle of production using a Jacquard machine is a prayer book, woven in silk. The book's title is
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on a Jacquard loom and required 24,000 punched cards to create (1839). It was only produced to order.
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that allow the weaving machine to then create the intricate patterns often seen in Jacquard weaving.
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The Jacquard machine analyzed and explained: with an appendix on the preparation of Jacquard cards
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The first prototype of a Jacquard-type loom was made in the second half of the 15th century by an
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1080:"Use of indigenous electronic jacquard in handloom for weaving fashionable silk sarees"
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It was issued in 1886 and 1887, in Lyon, France. It was publicly displayed at the 1889
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Livre de Prières. Tissé d'après les enluminures des manuscrits du XIVe au XVIe siècle
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Livre de Prières. Tissé d'après les enluminures des manuscrits du XIVe au XVIe siècle
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Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA
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1126:"At Walters Art Museum, a 19th-century prayer book connected to computer pioneers"
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to control a sequence of operations. It is considered an important step in the
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owned one of these portraits; it inspired him in using perforated cards in his
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knew of Jacquard machines and planned to use cards to store programs in his
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A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland
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to control a sequence of operations is considered an important step in the
149:. The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a
1255:Étude analytique des petits modèles de métiers exposés au musée des tissus
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283:. In that respect, he is viewed by some authors as a precursor of modern
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Eric Hobsbawm, "The Age of Revolution", (London 1962; repr. 2008), p.45.
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Jacquard's Web: How a hand-loom led to the birth of the information age
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449: in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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165:(1740). The machine was controlled by a "chain of cards"; a number of
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267:'s arrangement, but he made use of Jean-Baptiste Falcon's individual
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112:. It is in the collection of the Science Museum in London, England.
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610:. The cards were used for data, however, with programming done by
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1237:. Philadelphia: Pennsylvania museum and school of industrial art.
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and hence larger designs could be woven across the loom width.
784:
Inventions in Computing: From the Abacus to Personal Computers
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29:
906:"Métiers à tisser, Conservatoire des Vieux Métier du Textile"
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La seta a Catanzaro e Lione. Echi lontani e attività presente
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953:. John Heywood Ltd., Technical Book Depot, Halifax, Yorks.
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Le Comité Européen des Constructeurs de Machines Textiles
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An improvement of the draw loom took place in 1725, when
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ends wide with four repeats of the weave going across.
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in 1804, based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen
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Science and Reform: Selected Works of Charles Babbage
787:. Cavendish Square Publishing, LLC. pp. 41–43.
328:(7) and a return weight (8). The heddles raise the
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Textile Design Engineering Within the Product Shape
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1102:"Jacquard Fabric — What Is a Jacquard? - Sailrite"
394:, and the fabric design was stored in a series of
1007:"The Irish linen trade hand-book and directory"
927:"A Brief History of Figured Textile Production"
1156:. A Roux (Printer); J Kauffmann (Bookbinder).
220:Traditionally, figured designs were made on a
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1223:. Chicago: American School of Correspondence.
882:and Lyon. Distant echoes and present activity
279:Jacquard's invention had a deep influence on
133:that simplifies the process of manufacturing
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1257:. Lyon, France: Musée historique des tissus.
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826:Newton's London Journal of Arts and Sciences
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619:IBM Automatic Sequence Controlled Calculator
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366:the process of re-threading can take days.
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299:A schematic diagram of the Jacquard system
983:Victoria and Albert Museum (2015-10-08),
884:] (in Italian). Calabria Letteraria.
509:Learn how and when to remove this message
161:(1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and
80:Learn how and when to remove this message
951:Jacquard Mechanisms and Harness Mounting
820:Newton, William, ed. (January 1, 1866).
240:, Jean le Calabrais, who was invited to
43:This article includes a list of general
27:Control device attached to weaving looms
1029:"Bonas Textile Machinery NV - About Us"
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617:Some early computers, such as the 1944
378:Punched cards in use in a Jacquard loom
1248:. Philadelphia: Philadelphia, Posselt.
390:Originally the Jacquard machines were
649:According to its operators (CEMATEX,
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7:
1220:Jacquard machines; instruction paper
758:"The Jacquard Mechanism: Innovation"
447:adding citations to reliable sources
1192:. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
966:. Oxford University Press, Oxford.
606:corporation (IBM) with its line of
574:The Jacquard head used replaceable
1078:Panneerselvam, R G (16 Jul 2020).
49:it lacks sufficient corresponding
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1242:Posselt, Emanuel Anthony (1893).
986:How was it Made? Jacquard weaving
259:Joseph Marie Jacquard saw that a
181:machine-knitted textiles such as
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1090:: 84 – via UGC Care Group.
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34:
1217:Nelson, Hector William (1909).
843:Parrillo Chapman, Lisa (2008).
434:needs additional citations for
1084:Dogo Rangsang Research Journal
604:International Business Machine
153:. The machine was patented by
137:with such complex patterns as
1:
1274:– digital facsimile from the
1017:– via Internet Archive.
580:history of computing hardware
194:history of computing hardware
1717:Thomas Ferguson & Co Ltd
1150:Henry, J A; Hervier, R P J.
631:Thomas Ferguson & Co Ltd
594:. In the late 19th century,
415:Electronic Jacquard machines
1268:Posselt, Emanuel A. (1892)
370:Mechanical Jacquard devices
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549:The woven silk prayer book
386:A punch for Jacquard cards
129:) is a device fitted to a
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734:"Jacquard's Punched Card"
1229:Posselt, Emanuel Anthony
1184:Essinger, James (2004).
962:Essinger, James (2004).
781:Keranen, Rachel (2016).
188:This use of replaceable
176:innovations as Jacquard
949:Bradbury, Fred (1912).
870:Rubino, Angela (2006).
570:Importance in computing
291:Principles of operation
64:more precise citations.
1757:Brigitta Scherzenfeldt
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564:Exposition Universelle
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1855:History of technology
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155:Joseph Marie Jacquard
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1786:Employment practices
1747:Margaretha Reichardt
1737:Maria Elisabet Öberg
1702:Micheline Beauchemin
1456:Tools and techniques
762:Macclesfield Museums
732:Schoenherr, Steven.
688:Delve (2007), p. 99.
675:Hyman, Anthony, ed.
584:computer programming
443:improve this article
1798:Kissing the shuttle
1009:. W. H. Greer, 1876
309:Engineering drawing
1865:1804 introductions
1671:Warp-weighted loom
1276:Linda Hall Library
849:. pp. 69–70.
705:on January 5, 2009
458:"Jacquard machine"
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196:, having inspired
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1870:French inventions
1860:Weaving equipment
1850:Textile machinery
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1824:Queen Street Mill
1722:Elisabeth Forsell
1253:Razy, C. (1913).
972:978-0-19-280578-2
794:978-1-5026-2301-0
738:www.aes-media.org
699:"Fabric Glossary"
592:Analytical Engine
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202:Analytical Engine
163:Jacques Vaucanson
110:Analytical Engine
96:This portrait of
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454:Find sources:
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432:This section
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100:was woven in
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18:Jacquard loom
1767:Gunta Stölzl
1752:John Rylands
1732:Ethel Mairet
1666:Roberts loom
1616:Air-jet loom
1352:Double weave
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1133:. Retrieved
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1061:. Retrieved
1057:
1054:"About ITMA"
1048:
1036:. Retrieved
1032:
1023:
1011:. Retrieved
1001:
991:, retrieved
985:
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933:. Retrieved
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909:. Retrieved
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810:p.120 (1913)
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707:. Retrieved
703:the original
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499:October 2020
496:
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441:Please help
436:verification
433:
401:
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287:technology.
278:
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236:weaver from
231:
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70:January 2020
67:
48:
1875:Art history
1742:Lilly Reich
1697:Otti Berger
1692:Anni Albers
1661:Rapier loom
1392:Plain weave
1332:Basketweave
1135:11 February
1058:Cematex.com
345:dobby looms
62:introducing
1839:Categories
1793:More looms
1656:Power loom
1626:Dobby loom
1621:Dandy loom
1430:Components
1382:Pile weave
1372:Leno weave
1357:Even-weave
1111:2020-09-16
993:2022-06-18
891:8875741271
767:2022-06-18
743:2022-06-18
709:2008-11-21
663:References
612:plugboards
469:newspapers
392:mechanical
269:pasteboard
45:references
1712:Ada Dietz
1606:Types of
1362:Gabardine
1162:948879235
1063:8 October
1038:8 October
989:, Youtube
880:Catanzaro
545:pattern.
539:Matelassé
364:warp ends
285:computing
265:Vaucanson
261:mechanism
147:matelassé
1575:Tapestry
1523:Pibiones
1437:Textiles
1342:Coverlet
1231:(1887).
1033:bonas.be
1013:June 11,
935:29 March
878:Silk in
625:See also
246:Louis XI
238:Calabria
222:drawloom
178:shedding
135:textiles
98:Jacquard
1845:Weaving
1680:Weavers
1543:Shuttle
1337:Charvet
1318:Weaving
1281:CEMATEX
1211:Sources
808:C. Razy
543:brocade
537:have a
483:scholar
404:factory
318:shuttle
234:Italian
226:heddles
208:History
183:jerseys
174:weaving
139:brocade
122:French:
58:improve
1687:Acesas
1590:Wicker
1585:Wattle
1580:Temple
1570:Tāniko
1548:Sizing
1508:Kasuri
1493:Heddle
1468:Beamer
1407:Swivel
1377:Oxford
1367:Lampas
1325:Weaves
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326:heddle
224:. The
143:damask
47:, but
1812:Mills
1608:looms
1595:Resin
1565:Talim
1473:Braid
1412:Twill
1397:Satin
1387:Piqué
1347:Dobby
930:(PDF)
911:4 May
876:[
637:Notes
541:or a
534:Linen
527:Milan
490:JSTOR
476:books
360:warps
1538:Shed
1528:Reed
1513:Loom
1498:Ikat
1447:Yarn
1402:Shot
1194:ISBN
1158:OCLC
1137:2019
1065:2020
1040:2020
1015:2023
968:ISBN
937:2021
913:2021
886:ISBN
851:ISBN
789:ISBN
462:news
353:warp
338:warp
334:shed
330:warp
322:weft
242:Lyon
145:and
131:loom
116:The
102:silk
445:by
244:by
200:'s
1841::
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830:23
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402:A
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