379:
355:
31:
785:. In a 2009 interview, Moffatt noted that his initial competition form was poor until he began to study the mental side of competing, saying, "I found out how your mind works under pressure and immediately after reading that book I competed in Leeds and won my first competition". The book that Moffatt was referring to was
1056:
and Ron
Fawcett. However, Moffatt (and Moon) soon reached the limits of what they could safely achieve with traditional climbing, and instead followed the continental European trend into bolted sport climbing, and competition climbing. Moffatt, and Moon, were also part of a new group of climbers,
1651:
in 1996), and said of it: "'I'd done more than 200 routes of E7-9 and this bastard felt amongst the most serious few leads I'd ever done", and "From reading into Jerry's account of his ascent I'm pretty sure this is where he went and I'll just throw it out there and say I think he did an E9 in
1085:, "When I started climbing I wanted to do dangerous climbs, in my mid-20's I wanted to do really hard climbs with ropes, and then when I got to my late-30's it got shorter and I got more obsessed with trying to do the hardest move I could possibly do... It might be just one or two moves".
579:. In a later interview, Moffatt said, "At that time to be respected, you really had to be putting up really scary new routes. That was where it was at, in Britain at least. Master's Wall is probably where I risked most". Later that summer, Moffatt focused on sport climbing, establishing
1022:
called him "one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980s and 1990s", and "Jerry
Moffatt is, in short, a climber who like few others left his lasting mark, worldwide, on the early development of this vertical game". In 2009, Jens Larssen of climbing website
796:
In
September 1990, aged 27, Moffatt retired from competition climbing and at that time was rated first on the Association of Sport Climbers International (ASCI) rankings. On retiring, he was voted most prolific competition climber 1980s in the French climbing magazine
801:. In his 2009 autobiography he said of his retirement, "I no longer had energy the energy to keep it all up. I wanted to get myself back again. I wanted to see my friends. I wanted to climb for myself. I wanted to do first ascents. Most of all I wanted to have fun".
523:(E7 6b). Moffatt described Fawcett as a "massive legend", but that "by 1983, I was pretty sure I was climbing better than him in terms of difficulty. I looked up to him though and we never had any problems". Aged 18, and living in an abandoned shed at
999:
In 1991, Moffatt and Paul Reeve opened The
Foundry Climbing Centre ("the Foundry"), in Sheffield, and was the first of its type in the UK with leading, top-roping, bouldering, and interchangeable holds. They were originally financially supported by
413:
and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best
British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the
809:
Moffatt had been an early adopter of bouldering from the outset of his career, saying in a 2009 interview, "My early boulder problems weren't publicized, no one seemed to be interested in them at all". In 1988, he solved
1012:
Moffatt is widely considered to be the best
British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 1980s. In 2006, the
490:
Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of training techniques now considered mainstream in professional climbing. In 1991, Moffatt opened
Britain's first indoor
2905:
1206:
Our Father (E4 6a), Kingdom Come (E5 6b), Dies Irae (E2 5c), Special K (E4 6a), Scoop Wall (E3 5c), Kelloggs (E5 6b), Wee Doris (E4 5c), Pickpocket (E4 6a) 1984 Stoney
Middleton all solo in a day
1093:
Moffatt is married to his wife Sharon with whom he has two children. Outside of climbing, he is an avid surfer, a sport he took up while injured on a 1993 climbing trip to
Yosemite
2955:
511:
On leaving school in 1980, aged 17, Moffatt began to immediately attract attention in the
British rock climbing media with repeat ascents of some of the hardest British
2930:
974:
2454:
1018:
said: "Jerry is one of, if not the greatest climbers of all time, and his name is known and highly respected in the global world of rock climbing". In 2009,
2970:
929:
in 2011, "You have to have an insane confidence in your own ability to go soloing". In 1983, Moffatt was particularly active in pushing his limits, soloing
2775:
1146:
Right Wall E5 6a, Cemetery Gates E1 5b, Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b, Left Wall E2 5c, Memory lane E3 5c, Cenotaph Corner E1 5c, Foil E3 6a 1983 All solo in a day.
2950:
2925:
664:
2965:
2920:
1538:
1115:– although Moffatt spells it as two words – in memory of Toby, who was a keen gardener and wished to plant such a tree on his return to England).
1681:
1602:
854:
819:
732:
623:
600:
588:
543:
466:
446:
426:
2541:
1944:
1358:
1331:
899:, which is considered an important early film in the bouldering film genre, and featured the novel training techniques they were using (i.e.
769:, winning ten international events over two years, and never finishing worse than fifth in any competition he entered. He won the first-ever
2935:
2515:
481:, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the
2055:
Jerry is one of, if not the greatest climbers of all time, and his name is known and highly respected in the global world of rock climbing
1156:
Void (E4 6a), Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b), The Weaver (E2 5c), Vector (E2 5c), Extraction (E2 5c),Geireagle (E3 5c) 1983 All solo in one day.
1786:
in Italy, and Lyon in France), but was therefore not capable of winning the overall 1989 competition, which was won by Simon Nadin, with
2940:
2116:
1698:
is also potentially a candidate for re-grading to 9a, which would make it the world's first 9a over the exiting consensus candidate of
2680:
2632:
2285:
1107:
In April 1987, his younger brother Toby died aged 21 in the United States (in his autobiography, Moffatt says that he named his climb
2231:
2595:
2036:
1773:
1101:
92:
1891:
2945:
2910:
2316:
2173:
984:"33 Must Read Climbing Books", saying, "If you ever want to be inspired to train, just read any chapter. What a hardman!".
2342:
1580:
659:
612:
1271:
Maurienne Masters 1990 competition 1st place. The first multi-discipline event, red point, boulder, speed, and on-sight.
970:
957:(E4 5c). However, the death of his friend Neil Molnar, who died soloing that year, saw Moffatt scale back his soloing.
2653:
2205:
1237:
Scarface (8b+), White Wedding (8b+), To Bolt Or Not To Be (8b+), 1988 first to repeat all the 8b+'s Smith Rocks U.S.A
2569:
1221:(5.12d) 1985 Yosemite first ascent with Ron Kauk. Filmed live for Wide World Of Sport. Estimated 30 million viewers.
1212:
669:
2142:
1960:
1768:
542:
In 1982, aged 19, Moffatt travelled to the United States, where he repeated America's hardest routes, and did the
2960:
2826:
2779:
1860:
888: (V13), the hardest boulder problem in Britain at the time, and effectively Moffat's last major new route.
1607:
1081:, to materially improve their technique and the standard of routes they could climb. In 2006, Moffatt told the
415:
991:, focused on sports psychology for sport climbers, and built on the methods Lanny Bassham outlined (earlier).
2484:
1690:
1685:
1532:
1497:
1407:
1403:
892:
778:
770:
346:
903:-type installations) that are now mainstream. The pair would feature in other bouldering films, including
880: (5.13b). In 2002, on Stanage Edge in the Peak District Moffatt solved the long-term boulder problem
2915:
2900:
1700:
1001:
712:
1166:
576:
2722:
2258:
2168:
1004:, who owned 51%, but Moffatt and Reeve later bought out Wild Country's share, and now own it equally.
2895:
1787:
845: (V11), two of the hardest in America at that time. He returned to Yosemite in 1993, and added
766:
512:
478:
458:
168:
153:
2427:
1175:
Great Wall E4 6a- The Boldest (E4 5c), Curving Arete (E4 5c) 1993 Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Wales all solo.
2546:
2432:
2428:"Ben Moon on how the OG bouldering film "The Real Thing" still influences the sport 25 years later"
2372:
2311:
1714:
1029:
979:
184:
2367:
2088:
1045:
569:. In 1983, on returning home, Moffatt established his most dangerous traditional climbing route,
2880:
2705:
2628:
1940:
1544:
1509:
1478:
1443:
1364:
1354:
1337:
1327:
826:
461:, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a
1747:
1743:
1739:
1727:
1612:
1568:
1218:
1182:
1162:
1140:
1058:
885:
877:
857:
850:
842:
834:
822:
754:
743:
739:
728:
724:
680:
651:
647:
627:
604:
592:
584:
571:
550:
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536:
524:
483:
474:
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454:
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442:
438:
434:
252:
208:
198:
188:
2752:
1385:
2343:"From the archive, 20 November 1989: Miracle, miracle on the wall, GB is the best of all"
1574:
719:
in the Frankenjura in Germany. In May 1990, he returned to Pen Trwyn in Wales to create
825: (V12) boulder problems in the world. In 1991, Moffatt traveled to Yosemite and at
650: (5.13c) route. In June 1985, Moffatt did the first free ascent of the Yosemite's
2801:
2236:
1792:
1503:
1289:
Big Kahuna 1994 Lions Head Canada (8B) First ascent, Canada's hardest route at the time
1066:
1037:
said of him, "That's Jerry Moffatt, once the best rock climber in the world". In 2018,
1027:
said "Jerry Moffat was probably the best climber in the world during the 1980s", while
938:
869:
587: (5.13b) route. In September 1983, Moffatt travelled to Germany where he did the
532:
422:
148:
57:
1304:
Samson 1997 (E8 7b) Burbage South UK First ascent, hardest gritstone route at the time
1159:
Oyster (8a) August 1983 Pen Trwyn Wales. First ascent of world's first Sport 8a.
2889:
2401:
1618:
1466:
1200:
The Messiah (E6 6c) 1984 Peak District first ascent, hardest gritstone route at time.
1053:
790:
643:
491:
410:
2000:
2489:
1783:
1648:
1528:
1417:
1308:
1150:
1125:
1070:
1049:
925:
920:
900:
679:
On returning in 1987, Moffatt spent the next two years repeating the three hardest
635:
30:
2851:
2455:"The Real Thing, cult climbing film with Ben Moon and Jerry Moffat 25 years later"
1472:
1437:
1755:
1241:
1112:
1074:
1062:
566:
558:
516:
370:
40:
2083:
535:
routes that had repelled all attempts to free it, and one of the first British
2542:"Jerry Moffatt's Revelations Wins Grand Prize at Banff Mountain Book Festival"
1368:
1231:
Le Minimum (8b+) Buoux 1987 – Third ascent of Marc Le Menestrel's route (1986)
1078:
873:
815:
673:
462:
204:
158:
1341:
2516:"Revelations: The autobiography of world rock climbing legend Jerry Moffatt"
1462:
1411:
865:
495:
163:
80:
1563:
1133:
Super Crack (5.12c, 7b+) Swanangunks, USA.1982 first flash of this grade.
1097:
860: (V13) boulders ever climbed. In 1997, he climbed the 12-metre high
655:
194:
1717:, for whom that part of Cloggy's East Buttress was commonly referred to.
1713:
Moffatt called it "Master's Wall" in honour of British climbing pioneer
1181:
The Face (8a+) – Altmühltal – 1983 – First ascent, considered the first
498:. He has written books on mental preparation for competition climbing.
2876:
2117:"INTERVIEW - The Thought Process with Jerry Moffatt & Andy Pollitt"
1779:
1778:, winning one (Leeds in Britain) and coming second in the other three (
1548:
1513:
1482:
1447:
1250:
Leeds 1989 competition England 1st place. First-ever round of World Cup
969:, written with co-author Niall Grimes, won the Grand Prize at the 2009
430:
658:, as a live television event with an audience of over 30 million for
1104:, a boarding school with a special programme for dyslexic children.
1286:
Dominator 1993 Yosemite U.S.A (8b) Boulder problem world's first 8b
1280:
Serpentine 1992 (8a) Grampians Australia on-sight in 35-degree heat
1277:
Harrods Store 1991 London England Climbed the building to open sale
1041:
said, "Moffatt was the best climber of the 1980s and early 1990s".
1225:
1188:
Heisse Finger (7c) Germany 1983 world's first 7c to be on-sighted.
774:
696:
1668:
which defied attempts to repair it; it is now an 8b sport route.
1253:
La Riba 1989 competitions Spain 1st place equal with Simon Nadin
1191:
Super Imjin (7c) 1984 Japan, on-sight of country's hardest route
782:
765:
In 1989 and 1990, Moffatt concentrated on the emerging sport of
742: (5.14a) in 1992 in Australia, establishing Canada's first
527:
crag, Moffatt started to establish his own test-pieces such as
2041:
1194:
Pol Pot (7c+) 1984 Verdon, world's first 7c+ to be on-sighted.
1033:
magazine called him a "world rock climbing legend". In 2011,
1014:
1228:– 1987 – Second ascent of Antoine Le Menestrel's route (1986)
1124:
Mayfair (7a+) 1979 Pen Trwyn Wales, First ascent age 16 with
1153:– 1983 – First ascent, one of the last greats to be climbed.
923:
of challenging British traditional climbing routes, telling
668:. During 1985 to late 1986, Moffatt was largely out with a
1044:
In a British context, Moffatt (and contemporaries such as
1283:
Punks in the Gym 1992 (8b+) Arapiles repeat, 1st redpoint
1234:
La Spectre des Surmutant (8b+) Buoux second ascent – 1988
1215:(V9) 1984 Yosemite fourth ascent and first to do in a day
864:(E8 7b) at Burbage South, while technically the hardest
1694:
which was climbed a month later in June 1990; however,
1767:
Moffatt only attended four of the seven events of the
1130:
Little Plum (E6 6c) Stoney Middleton 1982 first ascent
1961:"An Interview with Jerry Moffatt About Comp Climbing"
1259:
Madonna di Campiglio 1989 competition Italy 1st place
1859:
Hobley, Nicholas; Grimes, Niall (26 February 2009).
1298:
Seans Roof 1995 (8c) Blackwell Dale U.K first ascent
1274:
Liquid Ambar (8c) Lower Pen Trwyn 1990 First ascent.
1178:
Ekel (9+) 1983 First ascent and first 9+ in Germany.
945:
at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, free soloing the neighboring
777:, and finished third overall, in the inaugural 1989
735:
8c+. Moffatt continued to travel widely, repeating
727: (5.14b) route, and which has been regraded to
2681:"Perfect Partners #13 - Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon"
2570:"Doctor of Climbology: 33 Must-Read Climbing Books"
2286:"Perfect Partners #13 - Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon"
1197:
Pappi on sight (8a) 1984 Verdon France first ascent
1172:
Masterclass (8a) 1993 Pen Trwyn Wales first ascent.
1100:at school, which led to his parents sending him to
378:
330:
316:
287:
238:
218:
177:
141:
136:
122:
114:
106:
98:
88:
63:
53:
48:
2654:"Jerry Moffatt's Classic 1990's Campus Board Film"
354:
750:, in 1993 in Ontario, and freeing routes such as
2906:People educated at St David's College, Llandudno
2259:"The first 8c+ (8c+/9a) and 9a in history books"
1387:Statement of Youth: The birth of modern climbing
1203:Revelations (8b) Raven Tor – 1984 – First ascent
531:(E6 6c, in 1981–82), one of the hardest British
2001:"Interview With Legendary Climber Jerry Moffat"
1069:, who were using new training techniques (e.g.
618:In 1984, on his 21st birthday, Moffatt flashed
2747:
2745:
2743:
2232:"MAN (AND CAMERAS) VS. ROCK ON YOSEMITE PERCH"
1508:(Motion picture). positive Power Productions.
1351:Mastermind : mental training for climbers
1892:"Jerry Moffatt?s Revelations - Master's Wall"
1382:Documentary on 1980s British sport climbing:
1301:Nelsons Column 1996 London England 4th ascent
1262:Bercy 1990 competition France Paris 1st place
975:Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature
676:), that required surgery and rehabilitation.
8:
1295:Progress (8c+) Kilnsey U.K 1995 First ascent
1292:Evolution (8c+) Raven Tor 1995 First ascent.
987:In 2017, Moffatt completed his second book,
895:, featured in a film by Simon Tucker called
21:
2478:
2476:
2755:(in French). grimper.com. 18 February 2009
2753:"Une biographie pour Jerry Moffatt !"
1268:London National 1990 competition 1st place
1265:Brianscon1990 competition France 1st place
1256:Cologne 1989 competition Germany 1st place
1209:The Phoenix (5.12d) 1984 Yosemite on-sight
1136:Equinox (5.12c) Joshua Tree 1983 USA flash
773:Grand Prix event that was held in 1989 in
715:), while also creating his own 8b+ route,
338:
231:One of first to climb 8A+, 8B (bouldering)
29:
20:
2956:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
2312:"A brief history of competition climbing"
2199:
2197:
2195:
2193:
2191:
1643:In 2018, James 'Caff' McHaffie, repeated
1603:List of grade milestones in rock climbing
2402:"Book Review: Jerry Moffat - Revelation"
2395:
2393:
2391:
2336:
2334:
1742: (5.13a), and only later raised to
1676:
1674:
1247:Seynes 1988 competition France 1st place
989:Mastermind: Mental training for climbers
2110:
2108:
2106:
1810:
1631:
731: (5.14c), which would make it the
2648:
2646:
2644:
2625:Wild Country: The Man Who Made Friends
2509:
2507:
2204:Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012).
2077:
2075:
2073:
2071:
2069:
2067:
2065:
2063:
1999:Beyazkaya, Berkay (28 February 2021).
1854:
1852:
1850:
1848:
1846:
1844:
1842:
1840:
1838:
1836:
1834:
1746: (5.13b). The world's first-ever
1322:Moffatt, Jerry; Grimes, Niall (2009).
891:In 1996, Moffatt and climbing partner
228:First to on-sight 7b+, 7c, 7c+ (sport)
2774:Maurizio Oviglia (23 December 2012).
2717:
2715:
2618:
2616:
2568:McDonald, Dougald (29 January 2015).
2031:
2029:
2027:
2025:
2023:
2021:
1935:Moffatt, Jerry; Grimes, Nial (2009).
1930:
1928:
1926:
1924:
1922:
1920:
1918:
1916:
1914:
1912:
1832:
1830:
1828:
1826:
1824:
1822:
1820:
1818:
1816:
1814:
757: (5.14c) in 1995 at Ravens Tor.
7:
2931:English non-fiction outdoors writers
2778:. planetmountain.com. Archived from
2596:"Mastermind by Jerry Moffatt Review"
1994:
1992:
1990:
1988:
1986:
1984:
1982:
1885:
1883:
1881:
1660:
1658:
1639:
1637:
1635:
118:10 st (140 lb; 64 kg)
2971:Climbing and mountaineering writers
2706:"Rock Climb Super Crack, the Gunks"
2143:"James McHaffie becomes The Master"
1434:Documentary on British bouldering:
973:, and was shortlisted for the 2009
853: (V13), considered one of the
672:injury (initially mis-diagnosed as
469:to solve problems of boulder grade
409:(born 18 March 1963), is a British
2540:Coefield, Joe (10 November 2009).
2514:Coefield, Joe (19 February 2009).
2400:Larrsen, Jens (23 February 2010).
1436:Pritchard, Ben (director) (2001).
110:5 ft 11 in (180 cm)
14:
2951:British writers with disabilities
2926:21st-century English male writers
2082:Moffatt, Jerry (12 August 2020).
1890:Grimes, Niall (12 January 2009).
1502:Tucker, Simon (director) (1996).
1477:(Motion picture). Slackjaw Film.
1471:Heap, Richard (director) (1998).
1442:(Motion picture). Slackjaw Film.
1416:Heap, Richard (director) (2001).
2966:English people with disabilities
2921:English male non-fiction writers
2776:"The evolution of free climbing"
2679:Ripley, Tom (14 November 2018).
2594:Moore, Theo (21 November 2017).
2284:Ripley, Tim (24 November 2018).
2206:"The evolution of free climbing"
1664:A hold would later break off on
1537:Hughes, Alun (director) (1988).
1324:Jerry Moffatt : revelations
683: (5.14a) routes in France (
599:, and then went on to climb the
583:at Pen Trwyn, the first British
377:
353:
2167:Burnside, Peter (8 June 2021).
2141:Berry, Nathalie (2 July 2018).
1543:(Motion picture). Hughes Film.
1422:(Motion picture). Slackjaw Film
1384:Brown, Nick (director) (2019).
638:. Later in 1984, Moffatt freed
225:First to climb 8a+, 8c+ (sport)
2802:"Rock Climb Ekel, Frankenjura"
2317:British Mountaineering Council
2310:Dunne, Toby (17 August 2021).
2174:British Mountaineering Council
2115:Pollitt, Andy (4 April 2017).
965:Moffatt's 2009 autobiography,
919:Moffatt is also known for his
789:(1988), by American Olympian,
622:at Saussois, and then did the
1:
2341:Clouston, Erlend (May 1989).
2169:"Caff completes Extreme Rock"
1581:American Broadcasting Company
1326:. Sheffield: Vertebrate Pub.
1102:St David's College, Llandudno
941:, and days before he climbed
933:(E6 6b) at Stoney Middleton,
699:), and in the United States (
2426:Samet, Matt (29 June 2020).
1769:1989 IFSC Climbing World Cup
1734:in 1984, however, Moffatt's
1730: (5.13b) is Ben Moon's
1726:The consensus first British
1704:, which was climbed in 1991.
977:. In 2015, it was listed in
971:Banff Mountain Book Festival
453: (5.13c), and probably
445: (5.13a), and also the
2936:Sportspeople from Leicester
2485:"Abandon all rope (Part 1)"
2230:Katz, Michael (June 1985).
1647:(2nd person to do so after
1562:Documentary on Moffatt and
1496:Documentary on Moffatt and
1461:Documentary on the hardest
1096:Moffatt was diagnosed with
1052:) carried on the legacy of
589:world's second-ever onsight
2987:
2941:Sportspeople with dyslexia
2627:. Verterbrate Publishing.
2368:"Review: The Winning Mind"
1937:Jerry Moffatt: Revelations
1139:Scarab (E6 6b, 7b+)
400:Updated on 16 January 2022
1939:. Vertebrate Publishing.
1861:"Jerry Moffatt Interview"
1353:. Vertebrate Publishing.
868:route at that time, with
465:, Moffatt was one of the
449:to climb routes of grade
427:first climbers in history
425:, Moffatt was one of the
399:
369:
345:
341:
326:
132:
102:Professional rock climber
28:
2827:"UKC Logbook - 'Polpot'"
2723:"UKC Logbook - 'Oyster'"
1608:History of rock climbing
1527:Documentary on Moffatt,
1402:Documentary on Moffatt,
693:La Spectre des Surmutant
2623:Vallance, Mark (2016).
2483:Pearsons, Neil (2011).
1621:, British sport climber
1224:Le Rage de Vivre (8b+)
779:IFSC Climbing World Cup
771:UIAA Climbing World Cup
347:IFSC Climbing World Cup
128:Sharon Wallace (m.2003)
1738:was originally graded
1615:, French sport climber
1349:Moffat, Jerry (2019).
1057:that included Germans
2946:Writers with dyslexia
2911:British rock climbers
1390:(Motion picture). UKC
642:at Ravens Tor in the
624:world's first onsight
539: sport routes.
515:routes, most notably
2037:"The master climber"
1540:80s Birth of Extreme
787:With Winning in Mind
767:competition climbing
709:To Bolt Or Not To Be
665:Wide World of Sports
513:traditional climbing
457: (5.14c). As a
416:history of the sport
169:Competition climbing
154:Traditional climbing
49:Personal information
16:British rock climber
1213:Midnight Lightening
1185:(5.13c) in history.
874:highball bouldering
630: (5.13a) with
595: (5.12d) with
553: (5.12c) with
494:, "The Foundry" in
479:traditional climber
459:competition climber
441: (5.12d), and
320:1990 (competition);
25:
2831:www.ukclimbing.com
2727:www.ukclimbing.com
2459:PlanetMountain.com
2210:PlanetMountain.com
2084:"The Winning Mind"
1967:. 28 November 2016
1865:PlanetMountain.com
1750: (5.13b) was
1732:Statement of Youth
1579:(Motion picture).
1167:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
1149:Ulysses (E6 6b) –
781:that concluded in
723:, Britain's first
646:, Britain's first
601:world's first-ever
577:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
544:world's first-ever
477: (V13). As a
93:St David's College
2660:. 17 October 2017
2376:. 7 December 2017
2005:Climbingposts.com
1946:978-1-906148-11-9
1797:finishing second.
1360:978-1-912560-96-7
1333:978-1-906148-11-9
1311:2002 First ascent
1244:1988 First ascent
1240:Stone Love (8b+)
1077:), and embracing
980:Climbing magazine
837: (V12), and
487:(E7 6b) in 1983.
473: (V12), and
404:
403:
393:
392:
2978:
2961:Boulder climbers
2864:
2863:
2861:
2859:
2854:. ukclimbing.com
2848:
2842:
2841:
2839:
2837:
2823:
2817:
2816:
2814:
2812:
2806:Mountain Project
2798:
2792:
2791:
2789:
2787:
2771:
2765:
2764:
2762:
2760:
2749:
2738:
2737:
2735:
2733:
2719:
2710:
2709:
2702:
2696:
2695:
2693:
2691:
2676:
2670:
2669:
2667:
2665:
2650:
2639:
2638:
2620:
2611:
2610:
2608:
2606:
2591:
2585:
2584:
2582:
2580:
2565:
2559:
2558:
2556:
2554:
2537:
2531:
2530:
2528:
2526:
2511:
2502:
2501:
2499:
2497:
2480:
2471:
2470:
2468:
2466:
2451:
2445:
2444:
2442:
2440:
2423:
2417:
2416:
2414:
2412:
2397:
2386:
2385:
2383:
2381:
2364:
2358:
2357:
2355:
2353:
2338:
2329:
2328:
2326:
2324:
2307:
2301:
2300:
2298:
2296:
2281:
2275:
2274:
2272:
2270:
2255:
2249:
2248:
2246:
2244:
2227:
2221:
2220:
2218:
2216:
2201:
2186:
2185:
2183:
2181:
2164:
2158:
2157:
2155:
2153:
2138:
2132:
2131:
2129:
2127:
2112:
2101:
2100:
2098:
2096:
2079:
2058:
2057:
2052:
2050:
2033:
2016:
2015:
2013:
2011:
1996:
1977:
1976:
1974:
1972:
1957:
1951:
1950:
1932:
1907:
1906:
1904:
1902:
1887:
1876:
1875:
1873:
1871:
1856:
1798:
1796:
1777:
1765:
1759:
1724:
1718:
1711:
1705:
1678:
1669:
1662:
1653:
1641:
1613:Patrick Edlinger
1592:
1590:
1588:
1576:Lost Arrow Spire
1569:Lost Arrow Spire
1559:
1557:
1555:
1524:
1522:
1520:
1493:
1491:
1489:
1458:
1456:
1454:
1431:
1429:
1427:
1399:
1397:
1395:
1372:
1345:
1219:Lost Arrow Spire
1141:Stoney Middleton
1059:Wolfgang Gullich
737:Punks In The Gym
685:Le Rage de Vivre
670:compressed nerve
652:Lost Arrow Spire
525:Stoney Middleton
447:first in history
433:routes of grade
386:
381:
380:
362:
357:
356:
339:
125:
84:
77:
73:
71:
33:
26:
2986:
2985:
2981:
2980:
2979:
2977:
2976:
2975:
2886:
2885:
2873:
2868:
2867:
2857:
2855:
2850:
2849:
2845:
2835:
2833:
2825:
2824:
2820:
2810:
2808:
2800:
2799:
2795:
2785:
2783:
2782:on 4 March 2016
2773:
2772:
2768:
2758:
2756:
2751:
2750:
2741:
2731:
2729:
2721:
2720:
2713:
2704:
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2699:
2689:
2687:
2678:
2677:
2673:
2663:
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2652:
2651:
2642:
2635:
2622:
2621:
2614:
2604:
2602:
2593:
2592:
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2552:
2550:
2539:
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2513:
2512:
2505:
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2493:
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2448:
2438:
2436:
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2420:
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2399:
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2366:
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2361:
2351:
2349:
2340:
2339:
2332:
2322:
2320:
2309:
2308:
2304:
2294:
2292:
2283:
2282:
2278:
2268:
2266:
2257:
2256:
2252:
2242:
2240:
2229:
2228:
2224:
2214:
2212:
2203:
2202:
2189:
2179:
2177:
2166:
2165:
2161:
2151:
2149:
2140:
2139:
2135:
2125:
2123:
2114:
2113:
2104:
2094:
2092:
2081:
2080:
2061:
2048:
2046:
2035:
2034:
2019:
2009:
2007:
1998:
1997:
1980:
1970:
1968:
1959:
1958:
1954:
1947:
1934:
1933:
1910:
1900:
1898:
1889:
1888:
1879:
1869:
1867:
1858:
1857:
1812:
1807:
1802:
1801:
1790:
1788:Didier Raboutou
1771:
1766:
1762:
1725:
1721:
1712:
1708:
1679:
1672:
1663:
1656:
1642:
1633:
1628:
1599:
1586:
1584:
1573:
1553:
1551:
1536:
1518:
1516:
1501:
1487:
1485:
1470:
1452:
1450:
1435:
1425:
1423:
1415:
1393:
1391:
1383:
1379:
1361:
1348:
1334:
1321:
1318:
1121:
1119:Notable ascents
1111:after the tree
1091:
1010:
997:
963:
917:
807:
763:
746: (5.13d),
607: (5.13c),
603:sport climb at
509:
504:
502:Climbing career
492:climbing centre
463:boulder climber
437: (5.12c),
395:
394:
384:
360:
336:
335:
321:
312:
283:
234:
214:
173:
142:Type of climber
137:Climbing career
123:
79:
78:
75:
69:
67:
44:
24:
17:
12:
11:
5:
2984:
2982:
2974:
2973:
2968:
2963:
2958:
2953:
2948:
2943:
2938:
2933:
2928:
2923:
2918:
2913:
2908:
2903:
2898:
2888:
2887:
2884:
2883:
2872:
2871:External links
2869:
2866:
2865:
2843:
2818:
2793:
2766:
2739:
2711:
2697:
2685:UKClimbing.com
2671:
2640:
2634:978-1910240816
2633:
2612:
2600:UKClimbing.com
2586:
2560:
2532:
2503:
2472:
2461:. 29 June 2021
2446:
2418:
2387:
2359:
2330:
2302:
2290:UKClimbing.com
2276:
2250:
2237:New York Times
2222:
2187:
2159:
2147:UKClimbing.com
2133:
2121:UKClimbing.com
2102:
2059:
2017:
1978:
1952:
1945:
1908:
1896:UKClimbing.com
1877:
1809:
1808:
1806:
1803:
1800:
1799:
1760:
1752:Grand Illusion
1719:
1706:
1701:Action Directe
1684:first 8c+ is
1670:
1654:
1630:
1629:
1627:
1624:
1623:
1622:
1616:
1610:
1605:
1598:
1595:
1594:
1593:
1566:on the FFA of
1560:
1525:
1505:The Real Thing
1494:
1459:
1432:
1410:bouldering in
1400:
1378:
1375:
1374:
1373:
1359:
1346:
1332:
1317:
1314:
1313:
1312:
1305:
1302:
1299:
1296:
1293:
1290:
1287:
1284:
1281:
1278:
1275:
1272:
1269:
1266:
1263:
1260:
1257:
1254:
1251:
1248:
1245:
1238:
1235:
1232:
1229:
1222:
1216:
1210:
1207:
1204:
1201:
1198:
1195:
1192:
1189:
1186:
1179:
1176:
1173:
1170:
1160:
1157:
1154:
1147:
1144:
1137:
1134:
1131:
1128:
1120:
1117:
1090:
1087:
1067:Stefan Glowacz
1020:PlanetMountain
1009:
1006:
996:
993:
962:
959:
953:(E4 5c), and
939:Dinas Cromlech
916:
913:
897:The Real Thing
806:
803:
762:
759:
748:The Big Kahuua
620:Chimpanzodrome
533:sport climbing
508:
505:
503:
500:
402:
401:
397:
396:
391:
390:
387:
382:
374:
373:
367:
366:
363:
358:
350:
349:
343:
342:
337:
333:
332:
331:
328:
327:
324:
323:
322:2002 (general)
318:
314:
313:
311:
310:
304:
298:
291:
289:
285:
284:
282:
281:
275:
274:(8A+/V12, '88)
269:
263:
257:
249:
242:
240:
236:
235:
233:
232:
229:
226:
222:
220:
216:
215:
213:
212:
202:
192:
181:
179:
175:
174:
172:
171:
166:
161:
156:
151:
149:Sport climbing
145:
143:
139:
138:
134:
133:
130:
129:
126:
120:
119:
116:
112:
111:
108:
104:
103:
100:
96:
95:
90:
86:
85:
65:
61:
60:
55:
51:
50:
46:
45:
34:
22:
15:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
2983:
2972:
2969:
2967:
2964:
2962:
2959:
2957:
2954:
2952:
2949:
2947:
2944:
2942:
2939:
2937:
2934:
2932:
2929:
2927:
2924:
2922:
2919:
2917:
2916:Free soloists
2914:
2912:
2909:
2907:
2904:
2902:
2901:Living people
2899:
2897:
2894:
2893:
2891:
2882:
2878:
2877:Jerry Moffatt
2875:
2874:
2870:
2853:
2847:
2844:
2832:
2828:
2822:
2819:
2807:
2803:
2797:
2794:
2781:
2777:
2770:
2767:
2754:
2748:
2746:
2744:
2740:
2728:
2724:
2718:
2716:
2712:
2707:
2701:
2698:
2686:
2682:
2675:
2672:
2659:
2655:
2649:
2647:
2645:
2641:
2636:
2630:
2626:
2619:
2617:
2613:
2601:
2597:
2590:
2587:
2575:
2571:
2564:
2561:
2549:
2548:
2543:
2536:
2533:
2521:
2517:
2510:
2508:
2504:
2492:
2491:
2486:
2479:
2477:
2473:
2460:
2456:
2450:
2447:
2435:
2434:
2429:
2422:
2419:
2407:
2403:
2396:
2394:
2392:
2388:
2375:
2374:
2369:
2363:
2360:
2348:
2344:
2337:
2335:
2331:
2319:
2318:
2313:
2306:
2303:
2291:
2287:
2280:
2277:
2264:
2260:
2254:
2251:
2239:
2238:
2233:
2226:
2223:
2211:
2207:
2200:
2198:
2196:
2194:
2192:
2188:
2176:
2175:
2170:
2163:
2160:
2148:
2144:
2137:
2134:
2122:
2118:
2111:
2109:
2107:
2103:
2091:
2090:
2085:
2078:
2076:
2074:
2072:
2070:
2068:
2066:
2064:
2060:
2056:
2045:. 2 June 2006
2044:
2043:
2038:
2032:
2030:
2028:
2026:
2024:
2022:
2018:
2006:
2002:
1995:
1993:
1991:
1989:
1987:
1985:
1983:
1979:
1966:
1962:
1956:
1953:
1948:
1942:
1938:
1931:
1929:
1927:
1925:
1923:
1921:
1919:
1917:
1915:
1913:
1909:
1897:
1893:
1886:
1884:
1882:
1878:
1866:
1862:
1855:
1853:
1851:
1849:
1847:
1845:
1843:
1841:
1839:
1837:
1835:
1833:
1831:
1829:
1827:
1825:
1823:
1821:
1819:
1817:
1815:
1811:
1804:
1794:
1789:
1785:
1781:
1775:
1770:
1764:
1761:
1757:
1753:
1749:
1745:
1741:
1737:
1733:
1729:
1723:
1720:
1716:
1710:
1707:
1703:
1702:
1697:
1693:
1692:
1687:
1683:
1677:
1675:
1671:
1667:
1661:
1659:
1655:
1650:
1646:
1645:Master's Wall
1640:
1638:
1636:
1632:
1625:
1620:
1619:Steve McClure
1617:
1614:
1611:
1609:
1606:
1604:
1601:
1600:
1596:
1582:
1578:
1577:
1571:
1570:
1565:
1561:
1550:
1546:
1542:
1541:
1534:
1530:
1526:
1515:
1511:
1507:
1506:
1499:
1495:
1484:
1480:
1476:
1475:
1468:
1467:Peak District
1464:
1460:
1449:
1445:
1441:
1440:
1433:
1421:
1420:
1413:
1409:
1408:Malcolm Smith
1405:
1401:
1389:
1388:
1381:
1380:
1376:
1370:
1366:
1362:
1356:
1352:
1347:
1343:
1339:
1335:
1329:
1325:
1320:
1319:
1315:
1310:
1307:The Ace (8B)
1306:
1303:
1300:
1297:
1294:
1291:
1288:
1285:
1282:
1279:
1276:
1273:
1270:
1267:
1264:
1261:
1258:
1255:
1252:
1249:
1246:
1243:
1239:
1236:
1233:
1230:
1227:
1223:
1220:
1217:
1214:
1211:
1208:
1205:
1202:
1199:
1196:
1193:
1190:
1187:
1184:
1180:
1177:
1174:
1171:
1168:
1164:
1163:Master's Wall
1161:
1158:
1155:
1152:
1148:
1145:
1143:– 1983 – solo
1142:
1138:
1135:
1132:
1129:
1127:
1123:
1122:
1118:
1116:
1114:
1110:
1105:
1103:
1099:
1094:
1089:Personal life
1088:
1086:
1084:
1080:
1076:
1072:
1068:
1064:
1060:
1055:
1054:Peter Livesey
1051:
1047:
1042:
1040:
1036:
1032:
1031:
1026:
1021:
1017:
1016:
1007:
1005:
1003:
994:
992:
990:
985:
983:
981:
976:
972:
968:
960:
958:
956:
955:Curving Arete
952:
948:
944:
943:Master's Wall
940:
936:
932:
928:
927:
922:
914:
912:
910:
906:
902:
898:
894:
889:
887:
883:
879:
875:
871:
867:
863:
859:
856:
852:
848:
847:The Dominator
844:
840:
836:
832:
828:
824:
821:
818:, one of the
817:
813:
804:
802:
800:
794:
792:
791:Lanny Bassham
788:
784:
780:
776:
772:
768:
760:
758:
756:
753:
749:
745:
741:
738:
734:
733:world's first
730:
726:
722:
718:
714:
710:
706:
705:White Wedding
702:
698:
694:
690:
686:
682:
677:
675:
671:
667:
666:
661:
657:
653:
649:
645:
644:Peak District
641:
637:
633:
629:
625:
621:
616:
614:
610:
606:
602:
598:
597:Heisse Finger
594:
590:
586:
582:
578:
574:
573:
572:Master's Wall
568:
564:
560:
556:
552:
548:
545:
540:
538:
534:
530:
526:
522:
518:
514:
506:
501:
499:
497:
493:
488:
486:
485:
484:Master's Wall
480:
476:
472:
468:
464:
460:
456:
452:
448:
444:
440:
436:
432:
428:
424:
423:sport climber
419:
417:
412:
408:
407:Jerry Moffatt
398:
388:
383:
376:
375:
372:
368:
364:
359:
352:
351:
348:
344:
340:
329:
325:
319:
315:
309:(8B/V13, '93)
308:
307:The Dominator
305:
302:
299:
296:
293:
292:
290:
288:Major ascents
286:
279:
276:
273:
270:
267:
264:
261:
258:
255:
254:
253:Master's Wall
250:
247:
244:
243:
241:
239:First ascents
237:
230:
227:
224:
223:
221:
217:
210:
206:
203:
201: (5.13c)
200:
196:
193:
191: (5.14c)
190:
186:
183:
182:
180:
178:Highest grade
176:
170:
167:
165:
162:
160:
157:
155:
152:
150:
147:
146:
144:
140:
135:
131:
127:
121:
117:
113:
109:
105:
101:
97:
94:
91:
87:
82:
76:(age 61)
66:
62:
59:
56:
52:
47:
42:
38:
32:
27:
23:Jerry Moffatt
19:
2856:. Retrieved
2846:
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334:Medal record
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300:
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256:(E7 6b, '83)
251:
248:(E6 6b, '83)
246:Ulysees' Bow
245:
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2896:1963 births
2852:"Evolution"
2658:Gripped.com
1965:Gripped.com
1791: [
1772: [
1756:Tony Yaniro
1736:Masterclass
1666:Revelations
1377:Filmography
1242:Frankenjura
1113:Liquidambar
1075:plyometrics
1063:Kurt Albert
995:The Foundry
967:Revelations
951:The Boldest
937:(E5 6a) at
876:problem at
713:Smith Rocks
640:Revelations
581:Masterclass
575:(E7 6b) at
567:Joshua Tree
559:Shawangunks
555:Super Crack
529:Little Plum
517:Ron Fawcett
266:Revelations
260:Masterclass
211: (V13)
74:18 May 1963
54:Nationality
41:Curbar Edge
2890:Categories
2690:16 January
2664:16 January
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2049:14 January
2010:15 January
1971:15 January
1901:16 January
1870:14 January
1805:References
1782:in Spain,
1587:15 January
1549:B00H7ATIW2
1519:16 January
1514:B005S22DIW
1488:13 January
1483:B000VY46PU
1465:routes in
1453:16 January
1448:B000K2Y798
1426:16 January
1419:Stone Love
1394:14 January
1369:1127750870
1165:(E7 6b) –
1079:bouldering
947:Great Wall
935:Right Wall
909:Stone Love
855:first-ever
820:first-ever
816:Cressbrook
805:Bouldering
717:Stone Love
689:Le Minumum
674:tendonitis
467:first-ever
303:(8c+, '90)
297:(8a+, '83)
280:(8c+, '95)
268:(8a+, '84)
205:Bouldering
159:Bouldering
99:Occupation
70:1963-05-18
2496:6 January
2215:4 January
1715:Joe Brown
1682:consensus
1554:9 January
1474:Hard Grit
1463:gritstone
1412:Cresciano
1342:429983846
949:(E4 6a),
872:is now a
866:gritstone
839:The Force
833: at
752:Evolution
496:Sheffield
278:Evolution
262:(8a, '83)
219:Known for
164:Free Solo
89:Education
83:, England
81:Leicester
39:(E1 5b),
2836:23 April
2811:23 April
2732:23 April
2574:Climbing
2547:Climbing
2520:Climbing
2433:Climbing
2373:Climbing
1758:in 1979.
1686:Ben Moon
1597:See also
1564:Ron Kauk
1533:Ben Moon
1498:Ben Moon
1439:Stick It
1404:Ben Moon
1098:dyslexia
1030:Climbing
911:(2001).
905:Stick It
893:Ben Moon
812:Superman
799:Vertical
701:Scarface
656:Ron Kauk
609:The Face
295:The Face
272:Superman
195:On-sight
185:Redpoint
35:Soloing
2553:17 July
2089:Outside
1780:La Riba
1309:Stanage
1151:Stanage
1039:Gripped
961:Writing
882:The Ace
831:Sick It
829:solved
632:Pol Pot
613:Altmühl
563:Equinox
431:onsight
317:Retired
207::
197::
187::
58:British
37:L'Horla
2858:14 May
2786:14 May
2759:14 May
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2265:. 2021
1943:
1696:Hubble
1691:Hubble
1652:1983".
1583:. 1985
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1169:– 1983
1065:, and
1008:Legacy
931:Scarab
862:Samson
827:Camp 4
636:Verdon
561:, and
537:7c+/8a
507:Routes
124:Spouse
115:Weight
107:Height
2406:8a.nu
2263:8a.nu
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1776:]
1626:Notes
1226:Buoux
1050:Dawes
1025:8a.nu
775:Leeds
697:Buoux
654:with
626:of a
611:, in
591:of a
549:of a
547:flash
421:As a
389:Lead
365:Lead
2881:IMDb
2860:2013
2838:2020
2813:2020
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385:1989
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