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Johnny Dawes

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306: 415:, the first E9-graded traditional rock route in Britain, and at the time, considered to be the hardest and most dangerous traditional route in the world. The guidebook described it as "A pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension". In a 2011 interview, Dawes said: "As you set off it's best to consider yourself already dead. You just do it". The climb, and rare repeats, are the subject of a 2006 documentary, 536: 38: 478:
called Dawes a "defining figure" and wrote that: "His climbs were rated among the very hardest in the world, test pieces of both balance and nerve, some with a reputation for terrible danger". Some of his routes are still so intimidating that they are rarely repeated, and several feature in climbing
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Dawes is widely considered a legend of British rock climbing, and one of the most influential figures in British rock climbing history. Over a career spanning the early-1980s to the early-1990s, he pushed the technical level of traditional climbing with routes that were unprecedented both in terms
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Dawes had a uniquely dynamic technique, leaping between very small holds, and also for his levels of balance and foot-control that enable him to climb extreme-grade routes without using his hands. Welsh climber George Smith said: "His climbing seemed choreographed rather than constructed in a gym.
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bent, made Dawes an enigmatic and mercurial character in British climbing. His writing has been called "quirky, convoluted, and often obscure", and a tendency to "speak in riddles" earned him the titles of "nutty professor", and of "mad genius" from some commentators. His approach also made it
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The various approaches to rock climbers' ever-present dilemmas evolve into schools of thought within climbing, with some adopting a highly physical approach and others, such as Johnny Dawes (the "nutty professor" of climbing), a more psychological
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Johnny Dawes: Mesomorph; Somatotype: 2:6:5. Below average height (5ft 3 inch) for an elite climber; naturally athletic with a muscular build; generally explosive dynamic style of climbing; exceptional on steep slabs and gently overhanging
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No one doubts Johnny Dawes' radical and unorthodox approach to climbing; the problem is that few people understand it! The 'nutty professor' of modern climbing, who thinks in patterns and moves in waves is also renowned for speaking in
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difficult to secure commercial sponsorship, with Dawes saying in a 2019 interview, "I wasn’t supported by the climbing industry because I didn't fit the commercial template".
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Dawes rejected the career path of his contemporaries into third-level education and then a likely London-based career, choosing instead to obsess on climbing, telling
2340: 2089: 2350: 2310: 2335: 2330: 1194: 997: 1531: 1435: 1030: 2124: 559:(E7 6b), Millstone Edge. First ascent. Originally climbed with side-runners, Dawes reclimbed it in 1984 with a low peg runner (now removed). 2141: 671:. First ascent. Britain's first grade-E9, and considered the world's hardest 'trad' climb at the time; features in the 2006 climbing-film, 434:
Himalaya, India; a dropped boot led to a forced descent from 6,000 meters to avoid frostbite. An autobiographical account of his climbing,
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route; a free ascent was considered in 1984 to be one of British climbing's "great challenges"; partly shown in the 1988 film,
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If there's perfect pitch for movement, he has it". Aspects of his unique technique was captured in the 1986 climbing film,
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In 1993, Dawes was a member of an expedition funded by the Mount Everest Foundation to attempt the first ascent of
502: 87: 2037: 505:, into a wealthy family, whose parents were part of the 1960s British motor racing scene. His education at the 1025: 833: 626: 938: 516:, "I was in a shut-off state, to a certain extent. When I was doing something dangerous it would wake me up". 1231: 987: 691: 405: 1731: 2345: 2320: 2305: 1199: 755: 2218: 1785: 1067: 852: 821:. First ascent. Only 3-bolts, hardest slate route at time; rarely repeated; Dawes believes grade is 8c. 664: 381: 2300: 2167: 284: 149: 1848: 1736: 1504: 458:
His unorthodox climbing style, coupled with his reputation for a keen intellect and an artistic or
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Dawes came to prominence outside of the rock climbing world with his 4 October 1986 ascent of
841: 829: 810: 763: 524: 506: 313: 294: 249: 226: 197: 188: 178: 98: 451:, considered one of the best-ever films in the genre, as well as the 2015 climbing series, 1903: 1591: 814: 781: 683: 593: 544: 341: 2275: 1041: 837: 729: 520: 388:). Dawes is remembered for intimidating traditional climbing routes, in the legacy of 153: 37: 2294: 1816: 1708: 1568: 1009: 991: 973: 952: 523:, which he called "depressing and heavy"; by 2018, treatment enabled him to climb at 401: 329: 280: 694:, one of the hardest climbing routes at the time, now part of a 2019 climbing film, 297:-grade. His influence on British climbing was at its peak in the mid to late-1980s. 2252: 1655: 1536: 1224:
FUNdamentals of Climbing 2: TECHNIQUE (A Workshop for Performance Climbing Coaches)
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was a difficult one, with Dawes suffering from periods of depression and bullying.
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Dawes' climbing career splits into an initial period pre-1986 where he focused on
1964: 1876: 867: 796: 740: 725: 714: 659: 647: 615: 604: 548: 459: 393: 365: 289: 233: 340:). From 1986, Dawes focused on Wales and on a diverse range of rock, from the 759: 630: 193: 157: 1960:"How the real-life Spiderman Johnny Dawes scaled Wales' toughest cliff face" 969: 948: 856: 818: 785: 687: 668: 651: 635: 485: 427: 361: 345: 325: 1195:""Look Ma, No Hands!" A Rock Climber Scales Cliffs Without Using His Hands" 2090:"Caroline Ciavaldini makes first female ascent of The Quarryman in Wales" 431: 377: 317: 184: 1468:
On the Roof of the World (The Guardian's anthology of climbing articles)
1651:"Johnny Dawes: 'It's about doing something that's fun… and impossible'" 751: 799:. First ascent and first onsight of an E7; is shown in the 1988 film, 633:. First ascent. Britain's first grade-E8; featured in the 1998 film, 2285: 1500:"Johnny Dawes and the Story of Indian Face: the UK's First E9 Climb" 2064:"The Quarrymen, featuring climbers James Pearson and Johnny Dawes" 1436:"The Indian Face by Johnny Dawes, the story of Britain's first E9" 534: 472:
of difficulty, and the style in which they were climbed. In 2012,
304: 400:, and less for sport climbing routes, unlike his contemporaries 706:. Dawes soon added the Fire Escape alternative finish (E7 6c). 125: 979: 654:
route, and the end of a period of focus by Dawes on gritstone.
1162:"Katy Whittaker: two Johnny Dawes hard slab climbs in a day" 283:
and author, known for his dynamic climbing style and bold
2142:"Mission Impossible: British Climbing's Great Challenges" 2248:
Johnny Dawes, rock climber: 'You've got to mess about'
1532:"25 October 1986: Johnny Dawes climbs the Indian Face" 1221:
Howett, Kevin; Schirrmacher, Katherine (August 2013).
332:, which was suited to his unique climbing style (e.g. 2038:"Watch Sean McColl on Classic Grit Route Gaia E8 6c" 758:. First ascent with Paul Pritchard of 8 pitches of 259: 215: 207: 167: 145: 140: 120: 112: 104: 94: 70: 62: 52: 47: 2012:"Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks" 1564:"The Story of the Indian Face: The UK's First E9" 1379:Peak Rock – The History, The Routes, The Climbers 1377:Kelly, Phil; Hoey, Graham; Barker, Giles (2013). 883:, (Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey, Giles Barker), 2013. 881:Peak Rock – The History, The Routes, The Climbers 574:at E8 7b in 1995, after it lost a crucial pebble. 1990:(1st ed.). British Mountaineering Council. 1066:The exact date is per the official guidebook to 836:. First ascent. Gritstone slab at E8 7a without 2262:, Old website of Johnny Dawes (archived, 2013) 455:, and other "no-hands", and "no-feet" videos. 1761:"Hands free at the Roaches with Johnny Dawes" 8: 1304:"Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview" 28: 2326:Sportspeople from Birmingham, West Midlands 2168:"Johnny Dawes' 1987 Route Finally Repeated" 1786:"Watch Johnny Dawes Walk-Up Five-Pitch 5.5" 1132:"The 80's: Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes" 940:Johnny Dawes & The story of Indian Face 1732:"Video: Johnny Dawes No-Handed Climbing 2" 702:pitch features in the 1986 climbing film, 287:routes. This included the first ascent of 36: 27: 417:Johnny Dawes and the Story of Indian Face 21:For other people with similar names, see 2219:"James McHaffie repeats Face Mecca (E9)" 1812:"Johnny Dawes Climbing in Roller Blades" 1644: 1642: 1640: 1638: 1011:Stone Monkey: Portrait of a rock climber 859:. Second ascent. FFA Nick Dixon in 1989. 1526: 1524: 1522: 1087: 1059: 1837: 1835: 1557: 1555: 1493: 1491: 1489: 1487: 1461: 1459: 1457: 1430: 1428: 1426: 1346:"Johnny Dawes - Full of Myself Review" 1298: 1155: 1153: 1102:"Johnny Dawes on Climbing Back to 8b+" 1031:List of first ascents (sport climbing) 788:. First ascent. Unrepeated until 2015. 570:. First ascent. Reclimbed by Dawes as 1339: 1337: 1335: 1333: 1331: 1329: 1327: 1325: 1296: 1294: 1292: 1290: 1288: 1286: 1284: 1282: 1280: 1278: 316: (5.12b), at Lucertole al Sole, 7: 2341:English non-fiction outdoors writers 2140:Farquhar, Grant (30 November 2018). 1470:. Guardian Books. pp. 198–200. 1372: 1370: 1368: 1366: 1257:Williams, Paul; Sharp, Alec (1989). 1188: 1186: 1184: 1126: 1124: 1122: 1095: 1093: 1091: 967:Documentary on leading UK climbers: 2351:Climbing and mountaineering writers 2311:People educated at Uppingham School 1100:Berry, Nathalie (3 December 2018). 2192:Dawes, Johnny (2 September 2013). 1958:McCarthy, James (8 January 2012). 1870:Sever, Michael (11 October 2012). 1704:"Johnny Dawes: No Handed Climbing" 1649:Beaumont, Peter (3 January 2012). 1193:Larson, Samantha (16 April 2015). 1048:Rock climbing in the Peak District 813: (5.14a), Rainbow Slab Area, 519:In 2011, Dawes was diagnosed with 14: 2336:21st-century English male writers 1844:"The Full Johnny Dawes Interview" 1842:Samet, Matt (27 September 2007). 1678:"Johnny Dawes no handed climbing" 1008:Williams, Huw (director) (1988). 1006:Documentary on Dawes' technique: 957:Heap, Richard (director) (1998). 808:The Very Big & the Very Small 247:The Very Big & the Very Small 116:5 ft 3 in (160 cm) 2331:English male non-fiction writers 1872:"Dancing on the edge of vertigo" 996:Hughes, Alun (director) (1988). 963:(Motion picture). Slackjaw Film. 937:Hughes, Alun (director) (2006). 743:. First ascent with Andy Pollit. 732:. The route has now fallen down. 673:Johnny Dawes and the Indian Face 1904:"A Masterclass Beyond the Edge" 1344:Douglas, Ed (4 November 2011). 1160:Findlay, Hazel (1 March 2012). 650:. First ascent. Dawes' hardest 354:The Very Big and the Very Small 279:(born 9 May 1964) is a British 1598:. The Mount Everest Foundation 1590:The Mount Everest Foundation. 1409:British Mountaineering Council 1402:Grimes, Niall (30 July 2021). 1167:British Mountaineering Council 1072:British Mountaineering Council 1044:, Canadian traditional climber 1038:, Scottish traditional climber 1014:(Motion picture). Hughes Film. 1002:(Motion picture). Hughes Film. 943:(Motion picture). Hughes Prod. 921:Hart, Neil (director) (2019). 717:. First ascent, with Bob Dury. 293:, the first-ever route at the 1: 1933:"Interview with Johnny Dawes" 1902:Graham, Neil (January 2001). 1759:Brown, Nick (15 March 2019). 844: (V9) boulder with pads. 690:. First ascent, 4 pitches on 479:films focused on Dawes (e.g. 2286:Johnny Dawes, Frictioneering 1596:The Mount Everest Foundation 1562:Hughes, Alun (2 June 2020). 1988:Eastern Gritstone: Froggart 947:Documentary on the hardest 23:John Dawes (disambiguation) 2367: 596:, Llanberis. First ascent. 501:Dawes was born in 1964 in 211:Extreme traditional routes 20: 1498:Editorial (3 June 2020). 1466:Nelsson, Richard (2009). 999:The 80s: Birth of Extreme 801:The 80s: Birth of Extreme 771:The 80s: Birth of Extreme 438:, was published in 2011. 270: 136: 108:Professional rock climber 88:Birmingham, West Midlands 35: 2276:Johnny Dawes Filmography 2266:Johnny Dawes (1983–2003) 1986:Sharples, Keith (1991). 1026:History of rock climbing 2256:(video interview, 2012) 1592:"Meru Shark's Fin 1993" 1232:Mountaineering Scotland 1070:, and also used by the 543:(E5 6b), Rainbow Slab, 483:) and his routes (e.g. 2115:Panton, Simon (2008). 1621:. Johnny Dawes Books. 1617:Dawes, Johnny (2011). 986:Documentary on Dawes, 897:(Johnny Dawes), 2011. 639:; repeats are coveted. 551: 321: 311:Regalo da Babbo Natale 2316:British rock climbers 538: 308: 780:(E8 7a), Twll Mawr, 728:. First ascent with 698:, and its notorious 682:(E8 7a), Twll Mawr, 481:80s Birth of Extreme 285:traditional climbing 150:Traditional climbing 48:Personal information 16:British rock climber 2194:"Facing The Indian" 972:(director) (1988). 797:Gogarth North Stack 741:Gogarth North Stack 726:Gogarth South Stack 715:Gogarth North Stack 711:Conan the Librarian 590:Dawes of Perception 370:Conan the Librarian 366:Gogarth North Stack 358:Dawes of Perception 32: 2280:MNTN Film Database 2070:. 18 February 2019 2068:PlanetMountain.com 2016:PlanetMountain.com 1792:. 30 November 2017 1682:PlanetMountain.com 1540:. 22 December 2011 1440:PlanetMountain.com 1310:. 23 December 2012 1259:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 1068:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 978:(Motion picture). 853:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 793:Hardback Thesaurus 665:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 583:Burbage South Edge 552: 453:No Handed Climbing 382:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 380:mountain crags of 374:Hardback Thesaurus 322: 162:Free solo climbing 2126:978-0-9554417-1-4 2096:. 14 October 2018 2094:PlanetMounain.com 1939:. 6 February 2019 1261:. 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First ascent. 545:Dinorwic quarry 533: 531:Notable ascents 527: (5.14a). 499: 469: 444: 424:The Shark's Fin 309:Dawes onsights 303: 301:Climbing career 255: 203: 146:Type of climber 141:Climbing career 124: 86: 85: 82: 76: 74: 53: 43: 42:Dawes, May 2011 31: 26: 17: 12: 11: 5: 2364: 2362: 2354: 2353: 2348: 2343: 2338: 2333: 2328: 2323: 2318: 2313: 2308: 2303: 2293: 2292: 2289: 2288: 2283: 2282:(January 2022) 2273: 2263: 2257: 2243: 2242:External links 2240: 2237: 2236: 2210: 2198:UKClimbing.com 2184: 2158: 2146:UKClimbing.com 2132: 2125: 2107: 2081: 2055: 2029: 2003: 1996: 1978: 1950: 1924: 1894: 1862: 1831: 1817:Rock & Ice 1803: 1777: 1765:UKClimbing.com 1751: 1723: 1709:Rock & Ice 1695: 1669: 1634: 1627: 1619:Full of Myself 1609: 1582: 1569:Rock & Ice 1551: 1518: 1483: 1477:978-0852651209 1476: 1453: 1422: 1394: 1388:978-1906148720 1387: 1362: 1350:UKClimbing.com 1321: 1308:PlanetMountain 1274: 1267: 1249: 1213: 1180: 1149: 1136:UKClimbing.com 1118: 1106:UKClimbing.com 1086: 1085: 1083: 1080: 1077: 1076: 1058: 1057: 1055: 1052: 1051: 1050: 1045: 1042:Sonnie Trotter 1039: 1033: 1028: 1021: 1018: 1017: 1016: 1004: 984: 965: 945: 929: 911: 908: 907: 906: 903:978-0957030800 895:Full of Myself 892: 889:978-1906148720 876: 873: 872: 871: 860: 845: 822: 804: 789: 774: 762:'s 1969 grade- 744: 737:The Hollow Man 733: 730:Paul Pritchard 722:Come to Mother 718: 707: 676: 655: 640: 619: 612:Slab and Crack 608: 597: 586: 575: 560: 532: 529: 521:hypothyroidism 498: 495: 468: 465: 443: 440: 436:Full of Myself 342:slate quarries 302: 299: 272: 271: 268: 267: 261: 257: 256: 254: 253: 244: 238: 230: 219: 217: 213: 212: 209: 205: 204: 202: 201: 191: 182: 171: 169: 165: 164: 154:Sport climbing 147: 143: 142: 138: 137: 134: 133: 122: 118: 117: 114: 110: 109: 106: 102: 101: 96: 92: 91: 72: 68: 67: 64: 60: 59: 56: 50: 49: 45: 44: 41: 29: 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 2363: 2352: 2349: 2347: 2346:Trad climbers 2344: 2342: 2339: 2337: 2334: 2332: 2329: 2327: 2324: 2322: 2321:Free soloists 2319: 2317: 2314: 2312: 2309: 2307: 2306:Living people 2304: 2302: 2299: 2298: 2296: 2287: 2284: 2281: 2277: 2274: 2271: 2267: 2264: 2261: 2258: 2255: 2254: 2249: 2246: 2245: 2241: 2225:. 7 June 2016 2224: 2220: 2214: 2211: 2199: 2195: 2188: 2185: 2173: 2169: 2162: 2159: 2147: 2143: 2136: 2133: 2128: 2122: 2119:. 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Index

John Dawes (disambiguation)

Birmingham, West Midlands
Uppingham School
www.johnnydawes.com
Traditional climbing
Sport climbing
Bouldering
Free solo climbing
Redpoint
8b+
On-sight
E7/8 6c
Bouldering
7C
E8 6c
Indian Face
8b+
rock climber
traditional climbing
Indian Face
E9

7b
Lotzorai
gritstone
Peak District
slate quarries
Llanberis
quartzite

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