306:
415:, the first E9-graded traditional rock route in Britain, and at the time, considered to be the hardest and most dangerous traditional route in the world. The guidebook described it as "A pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension". In a 2011 interview, Dawes said: "As you set off it's best to consider yourself already dead. You just do it". The climb, and rare repeats, are the subject of a 2006 documentary,
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called Dawes a "defining figure" and wrote that: "His climbs were rated among the very hardest in the world, test pieces of both balance and nerve, some with a reputation for terrible danger". Some of his routes are still so intimidating that they are rarely repeated, and several feature in climbing
471:
Dawes is widely considered a legend of
British rock climbing, and one of the most influential figures in British rock climbing history. Over a career spanning the early-1980s to the early-1990s, he pushed the technical level of traditional climbing with routes that were unprecedented both in terms
446:
Dawes had a uniquely dynamic technique, leaping between very small holds, and also for his levels of balance and foot-control that enable him to climb extreme-grade routes without using his hands. Welsh climber George Smith said: "His climbing seemed choreographed rather than constructed in a gym.
462:
bent, made Dawes an enigmatic and mercurial character in
British climbing. His writing has been called "quirky, convoluted, and often obscure", and a tendency to "speak in riddles" earned him the titles of "nutty professor", and of "mad genius" from some commentators. His approach also made it
1889:
The various approaches to rock climbers' ever-present dilemmas evolve into schools of thought within climbing, with some adopting a highly physical approach and others, such as Johnny Dawes (the "nutty professor" of climbing), a more psychological
1244:
Johnny Dawes: Mesomorph; Somatotype: 2:6:5. Below average height (5ft 3 inch) for an elite climber; naturally athletic with a muscular build; generally explosive dynamic style of climbing; exceptional on steep slabs and gently overhanging
1919:
No one doubts Johnny Dawes' radical and unorthodox approach to climbing; the problem is that few people understand it! The 'nutty professor' of modern climbing, who thinks in patterns and moves in waves is also renowned for speaking in
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difficult to secure commercial sponsorship, with Dawes saying in a 2019 interview, "I wasn’t supported by the climbing industry because I didn't fit the commercial template".
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Dawes rejected the career path of his contemporaries into third-level education and then a likely London-based career, choosing instead to obsess on climbing, telling
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559:(E7 6b), Millstone Edge. First ascent. Originally climbed with side-runners, Dawes reclimbed it in 1984 with a low peg runner (now removed).
2141:
671:. First ascent. Britain's first grade-E9, and considered the world's hardest 'trad' climb at the time; features in the 2006 climbing-film,
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Himalaya, India; a dropped boot led to a forced descent from 6,000 meters to avoid frostbite. An autobiographical account of his climbing,
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2011:
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route; a free ascent was considered in 1984 to be one of
British climbing's "great challenges"; partly shown in the 1988 film,
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If there's perfect pitch for movement, he has it". Aspects of his unique technique was captured in the 1986 climbing film,
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In 1993, Dawes was a member of an expedition funded by the Mount
Everest Foundation to attempt the first ascent of
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505:, into a wealthy family, whose parents were part of the 1960s British motor racing scene. His education at the
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516:, "I was in a shut-off state, to a certain extent. When I was doing something dangerous it would wake me up".
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821:. First ascent. Only 3-bolts, hardest slate route at time; rarely repeated; Dawes believes grade is 8c.
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His unorthodox climbing style, coupled with his reputation for a keen intellect and an artistic or
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Dawes came to prominence outside of the rock climbing world with his 4 October 1986 ascent of
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451:, considered one of the best-ever films in the genre, as well as the 2015 climbing series,
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729:
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388:). Dawes is remembered for intimidating traditional climbing routes, in the legacy of
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523:, which he called "depressing and heavy"; by 2018, treatment enabled him to climb at
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694:, one of the hardest climbing routes at the time, now part of a 2019 climbing film,
297:-grade. His influence on British climbing was at its peak in the mid to late-1980s.
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FUNdamentals of
Climbing 2: TECHNIQUE (A Workshop for Performance Climbing Coaches)
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was a difficult one, with Dawes suffering from periods of depression and bullying.
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Dawes' climbing career splits into an initial period pre-1986 where he focused on
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615:
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548:
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233:
340:). From 1986, Dawes focused on Wales and on a diverse range of rock, from the
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1960:"How the real-life Spiderman Johnny Dawes scaled Wales' toughest cliff face"
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1195:""Look Ma, No Hands!" A Rock Climber Scales Cliffs Without Using His Hands"
2090:"Caroline Ciavaldini makes first female ascent of The Quarryman in Wales"
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377:
317:
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On the Roof of the World (The
Guardian's anthology of climbing articles)
1651:"Johnny Dawes: 'It's about doing something that's fun… and impossible'"
751:
799:. First ascent and first onsight of an E7; is shown in the 1988 film,
633:. First ascent. Britain's first grade-E8; featured in the 1998 film,
2285:
1500:"Johnny Dawes and the Story of Indian Face: the UK's First E9 Climb"
2064:"The Quarrymen, featuring climbers James Pearson and Johnny Dawes"
1436:"The Indian Face by Johnny Dawes, the story of Britain's first E9"
534:
472:
of difficulty, and the style in which they were climbed. In 2012,
304:
400:, and less for sport climbing routes, unlike his contemporaries
706:. Dawes soon added the Fire Escape alternative finish (E7 6c).
125:
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654:
route, and the end of a period of focus by Dawes on gritstone.
1162:"Katy Whittaker: two Johnny Dawes hard slab climbs in a day"
283:
and author, known for his dynamic climbing style and bold
2142:"Mission Impossible: British Climbing's Great Challenges"
2248:
Johnny Dawes, rock climber: 'You've got to mess about'
1532:"25 October 1986: Johnny Dawes climbs the Indian Face"
1221:
Howett, Kevin; Schirrmacher, Katherine (August 2013).
332:, which was suited to his unique climbing style (e.g.
2038:"Watch Sean McColl on Classic Grit Route Gaia E8 6c"
758:. First ascent with Paul Pritchard of 8 pitches of
259:
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2012:"Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks"
1564:"The Story of the Indian Face: The UK's First E9"
1379:Peak Rock – The History, The Routes, The Climbers
1377:Kelly, Phil; Hoey, Graham; Barker, Giles (2013).
883:, (Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey, Giles Barker), 2013.
881:Peak Rock – The History, The Routes, The Climbers
574:at E8 7b in 1995, after it lost a crucial pebble.
1990:(1st ed.). British Mountaineering Council.
1066:The exact date is per the official guidebook to
836:. First ascent. Gritstone slab at E8 7a without
2262:, Old website of Johnny Dawes (archived, 2013)
455:, and other "no-hands", and "no-feet" videos.
1761:"Hands free at the Roaches with Johnny Dawes"
8:
1304:"Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview"
28:
2326:Sportspeople from Birmingham, West Midlands
2168:"Johnny Dawes' 1987 Route Finally Repeated"
1786:"Watch Johnny Dawes Walk-Up Five-Pitch 5.5"
1132:"The 80's: Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes"
940:Johnny Dawes & The story of Indian Face
1732:"Video: Johnny Dawes No-Handed Climbing 2"
702:pitch features in the 1986 climbing film,
287:routes. This included the first ascent of
36:
27:
417:Johnny Dawes and the Story of Indian Face
21:For other people with similar names, see
2219:"James McHaffie repeats Face Mecca (E9)"
1812:"Johnny Dawes Climbing in Roller Blades"
1644:
1642:
1640:
1638:
1011:Stone Monkey: Portrait of a rock climber
859:. Second ascent. FFA Nick Dixon in 1989.
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1346:"Johnny Dawes - Full of Myself Review"
1298:
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1102:"Johnny Dawes on Climbing Back to 8b+"
1031:List of first ascents (sport climbing)
788:. First ascent. Unrepeated until 2015.
570:. First ascent. Reclimbed by Dawes as
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316: (5.12b), at Lucertole al Sole,
7:
2341:English non-fiction outdoors writers
2140:Farquhar, Grant (30 November 2018).
1470:. Guardian Books. pp. 198–200.
1372:
1370:
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1257:Williams, Paul; Sharp, Alec (1989).
1188:
1186:
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1093:
1091:
967:Documentary on leading UK climbers:
2351:Climbing and mountaineering writers
2311:People educated at Uppingham School
1100:Berry, Nathalie (3 December 2018).
2192:Dawes, Johnny (2 September 2013).
1958:McCarthy, James (8 January 2012).
1870:Sever, Michael (11 October 2012).
1704:"Johnny Dawes: No Handed Climbing"
1649:Beaumont, Peter (3 January 2012).
1193:Larson, Samantha (16 April 2015).
1048:Rock climbing in the Peak District
813: (5.14a), Rainbow Slab Area,
519:In 2011, Dawes was diagnosed with
14:
2336:21st-century English male writers
1844:"The Full Johnny Dawes Interview"
1842:Samet, Matt (27 September 2007).
1678:"Johnny Dawes no handed climbing"
1008:Williams, Huw (director) (1988).
1006:Documentary on Dawes' technique:
957:Heap, Richard (director) (1998).
808:The Very Big & the Very Small
247:The Very Big & the Very Small
116:5 ft 3 in (160 cm)
2331:English male non-fiction writers
1872:"Dancing on the edge of vertigo"
996:Hughes, Alun (director) (1988).
963:(Motion picture). Slackjaw Film.
937:Hughes, Alun (director) (2006).
743:. First ascent with Andy Pollit.
732:. The route has now fallen down.
673:Johnny Dawes and the Indian Face
1904:"A Masterclass Beyond the Edge"
1344:Douglas, Ed (4 November 2011).
1160:Findlay, Hazel (1 March 2012).
650:. First ascent. Dawes' hardest
354:The Very Big and the Very Small
279:(born 9 May 1964) is a British
1598:. The Mount Everest Foundation
1590:The Mount Everest Foundation.
1409:British Mountaineering Council
1402:Grimes, Niall (30 July 2021).
1167:British Mountaineering Council
1072:British Mountaineering Council
1044:, Canadian traditional climber
1038:, Scottish traditional climber
1014:(Motion picture). Hughes Film.
1002:(Motion picture). Hughes Film.
943:(Motion picture). Hughes Prod.
921:Hart, Neil (director) (2019).
717:. First ascent, with Bob Dury.
293:, the first-ever route at the
1:
1933:"Interview with Johnny Dawes"
1902:Graham, Neil (January 2001).
1759:Brown, Nick (15 March 2019).
844: (V9) boulder with pads.
690:. First ascent, 4 pitches on
479:films focused on Dawes (e.g.
2286:Johnny Dawes, Frictioneering
1596:The Mount Everest Foundation
1562:Hughes, Alun (2 June 2020).
1988:Eastern Gritstone: Froggart
947:Documentary on the hardest
23:John Dawes (disambiguation)
2367:
596:, Llanberis. First ascent.
501:Dawes was born in 1964 in
211:Extreme traditional routes
20:
1498:Editorial (3 June 2020).
1466:Nelsson, Richard (2009).
999:The 80s: Birth of Extreme
801:The 80s: Birth of Extreme
771:The 80s: Birth of Extreme
438:, was published in 2011.
270:
136:
108:Professional rock climber
88:Birmingham, West Midlands
35:
2276:Johnny Dawes Filmography
2266:Johnny Dawes (1983–2003)
1986:Sharples, Keith (1991).
1026:History of rock climbing
2256:(video interview, 2012)
1592:"Meru Shark's Fin 1993"
1232:Mountaineering Scotland
1070:, and also used by the
543:(E5 6b), Rainbow Slab,
483:) and his routes (e.g.
2115:Panton, Simon (2008).
1621:. Johnny Dawes Books.
1617:Dawes, Johnny (2011).
986:Documentary on Dawes,
897:(Johnny Dawes), 2011.
639:; repeats are coveted.
551:
321:
311:Regalo da Babbo Natale
2316:British rock climbers
538:
308:
780:(E8 7a), Twll Mawr,
728:. First ascent with
698:, and its notorious
682:(E8 7a), Twll Mawr,
481:80s Birth of Extreme
285:traditional climbing
150:Traditional climbing
48:Personal information
16:British rock climber
2194:"Facing The Indian"
972:(director) (1988).
797:Gogarth North Stack
741:Gogarth North Stack
726:Gogarth South Stack
715:Gogarth North Stack
711:Conan the Librarian
590:Dawes of Perception
370:Conan the Librarian
366:Gogarth North Stack
358:Dawes of Perception
32:
2280:MNTN Film Database
2070:. 18 February 2019
2068:PlanetMountain.com
2016:PlanetMountain.com
1792:. 30 November 2017
1682:PlanetMountain.com
1540:. 22 December 2011
1440:PlanetMountain.com
1310:. 23 December 2012
1259:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
1068:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
978:(Motion picture).
853:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
793:Hardback Thesaurus
665:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
583:Burbage South Edge
552:
453:No Handed Climbing
382:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
380:mountain crags of
374:Hardback Thesaurus
322:
162:Free solo climbing
2126:978-0-9554417-1-4
2096:. 14 October 2018
2094:PlanetMounain.com
1939:. 6 February 2019
1261:. Climbers Club.
927:(Motion picture).
644:End of the Affair
579:The Braille Trail
338:End of the Affair
274:
273:
2358:
2272:(archived, 2019)
2270:ClimbandMore.com
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507:Uppingham School
320:, Sardinia. 2009
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99:Uppingham School
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2019:
2018:. 17 March 2016
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1740:. 20 April 2021
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1712:. 20 April 2021
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1684:. 15 April 2015
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1404:"Hold the line"
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1138:. November 2007
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936:
933:The Indian Face
931:Documentary on
920:
915:Documentary on
912:
877:
870:. First ascent.
838:bouldering pads
815:Dinorwic quarry
782:Dinorwic quarry
752:Strone Ulladale
684:Dinorwic quarry
618:. First ascent.
607:. First ascent.
585:. First ascent.
545:Dinorwic quarry
533:
531:Notable ascents
527: (5.14a).
499:
469:
444:
424:The Shark's Fin
309:Dawes onsights
303:
301:Climbing career
255:
203:
146:Type of climber
141:Climbing career
124:
86:
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42:Dawes, May 2011
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2282:(January 2022)
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2242:External links
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2198:UKClimbing.com
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2146:UKClimbing.com
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2003:
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1817:Rock & Ice
1803:
1777:
1765:UKClimbing.com
1751:
1723:
1709:Rock & Ice
1695:
1669:
1634:
1627:
1619:Full of Myself
1609:
1582:
1569:Rock & Ice
1551:
1518:
1483:
1477:978-0852651209
1476:
1453:
1422:
1394:
1388:978-1906148720
1387:
1362:
1350:UKClimbing.com
1321:
1308:PlanetMountain
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1136:UKClimbing.com
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1106:UKClimbing.com
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895:Full of Myself
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762:'s 1969 grade-
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737:The Hollow Man
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730:Paul Pritchard
722:Come to Mother
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612:Slab and Crack
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2119:. Ground Up.
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2117:Gogarth North
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2260:Johnny Dawes
2253:The Guardian
2251:
2227:. Retrieved
2222:
2213:
2201:. Retrieved
2197:
2187:
2175:. Retrieved
2171:
2161:
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2110:
2098:. Retrieved
2093:
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2072:. Retrieved
2067:
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2046:. Retrieved
2041:
2032:
2020:. Retrieved
2015:
2006:
1987:
1981:
1969:. Retrieved
1963:
1953:
1941:. Retrieved
1936:
1927:
1918:
1911:. Retrieved
1907:
1897:
1888:
1881:. Retrieved
1875:
1865:
1853:. Retrieved
1847:
1822:. Retrieved
1820:. 5 May 2018
1815:
1806:
1794:. Retrieved
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1780:
1768:. Retrieved
1764:
1754:
1742:. Retrieved
1735:
1726:
1714:. Retrieved
1707:
1698:
1686:. Retrieved
1681:
1672:
1660:. Retrieved
1656:The Guardian
1654:
1618:
1612:
1600:. Retrieved
1595:
1585:
1573:. Retrieved
1567:
1542:. Retrieved
1537:The Guardian
1535:
1509:. Retrieved
1503:
1467:
1444:. Retrieved
1439:
1413:. Retrieved
1407:
1397:
1378:
1353:. Retrieved
1349:
1312:. Retrieved
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1258:
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1243:
1236:. Retrieved
1223:
1216:
1204:. Retrieved
1198:
1171:. Retrieved
1165:
1140:. Retrieved
1135:
1109:. Retrieved
1105:
1062:
1036:Dave MacLeod
1010:
998:
975:The Climbers
974:
959:
939:
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875:Bibliography
863:
848:
832: (V9),
825:
807:
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792:
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767:aid climbing
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736:
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704:Stone Monkey
703:
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614:(E7/8, 6c),
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568:Bamford Edge
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514:The Guardian
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398:John Redhead
390:Pete Livesey
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281:rock climber
277:Johnny Dawes
276:
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128:.johnnydawes
58:Stone Monkey
30:Johnny Dawes
18:
2301:1964 births
2042:Gripped.com
1965:Media Wales
1877:Irish Times
1790:Gripped.com
1602:14 November
1234:. p. 9
1200:Smithsonian
910:Filmography
868:Curbar Edge
834:Black Rocks
828:(E8 7a) or
795:(E7/8 6c),
692:Welsh slate
660:Indian Face
648:Curbar Edge
627:Black Rocks
616:Curbar Edge
605:Curbar Edge
549:North Wales
541:Poetry Pink
413:Indian Face
394:Ron Fawcett
386:Indian Face
376:), and the
290:Indian Face
264:Indian Face
234:Indian Face
63:Nationality
2295:Categories
2229:11 January
1943:11 January
1913:10 January
1883:10 January
1855:10 January
1824:12 January
1744:12 January
1716:12 January
1628:0957030800
1415:15 January
1268:0901601438
1238:10 January
1082:References
951:routes in
849:Face Mecca
760:Doug Scott
631:Derbyshire
564:The Salmon
503:Birmingham
364:cliffs of
360:), to the
200: (V9)
194:Bouldering
158:Bouldering
105:Occupation
81:9 May 1964
77:1964-05-09
2203:9 January
2166:Gripped.
2151:9 January
2100:9 January
2074:9 January
2048:9 January
2022:9 January
1971:8 January
1890:approach.
1796:9 January
1770:9 January
1688:9 January
1662:9 January
1575:9 January
1544:9 January
1511:9 January
1446:9 January
1355:9 January
1314:9 January
1206:8 January
1173:9 January
1142:9 January
1111:9 January
970:Sid Perou
960:Hard Grit
949:gritstone
935:(E9 6c):
919:(E8 7a):
866:(E8 6c),
857:Snowdonia
851:(E9 6c),
819:Llanberis
786:Llanberis
750:(E7 6b),
748:The Scoop
739:(E8 6b),
724:(E7 6a),
713:(E7 6b),
688:Llanberis
669:Snowdonia
663:(E9 6c),
652:gritstone
646:(E8 6c),
636:Hard Grit
625:(E8 6c),
603:(E7 6b),
592:(E7 6c),
581:(E7 6c),
566:(E7 6c),
539:Dawes on
491:Quarrymen
486:Hard Grit
428:Meru Peak
362:quartzite
346:Llanberis
326:gritstone
208:Known for
95:Education
1849:Climbing
1737:Climbing
1505:Climbing
1020:See also
988:Ben Moon
557:Monopoly
460:bohemian
432:Gangotri
406:Ben Moon
378:rhyolite
318:Lotzorai
185:On-sight
175:Redpoint
54:Nickname
2177:6 April
1920:riddles
1245:ground.
840:, or a
328:in the
266:(E9 6c)
243:(E8 7a)
237:(E9 6c)
196::
189:E7/8 6c
187::
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121:Website
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588:1985:
577:1984:
562:1984:
555:1983:
467:Legacy
384:(e.g.
372:, and
368:(e.g.
356:, and
348:(e.g.
336:, and
113:Height
1228:(PDF)
1054:Notes
601:Janus
442:Style
227:E8 6c
2231:2022
2205:2022
2179:2023
2153:2022
2121:ISBN
2102:2022
2076:2022
2050:2022
2024:2022
1992:ISBN
1973:2022
1945:2022
1915:2022
1885:2022
1857:2022
1826:2022
1798:2022
1772:2022
1746:2022
1718:2022
1690:2022
1664:2022
1623:ISBN
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1383:ISBN
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1263:ISBN
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1208:2022
1175:2022
1144:2022
1113:2022
990:and
899:ISBN
885:ISBN
623:Gaia
404:and
396:and
334:Gaia
223:Gaia
130:.com
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980:BBC
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430:in
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