Knowledge (XXG)

Kosode

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777: 711: 729: 40: 840: 757: 882: 797: 823: 158: 58: 776: 22: 710: 728: 1359: 839: 674: 693: 881: 403:'s proportions – a wide body and comparatively narrow sleeves – gradually evened out over time, before coming to resemble those of a modern kimono around the Edo period. The sleeves on some women's 673: 796: 822: 756: 748: 542:
were comparatively short in both length and width, being for the most part attached to the body down the entire length, with a somewhat rounded edge below the wrist opening of each sleeve.
1100: 1067: 223:. Though its component parts directly parallel those of the kimono, its proportions differed, typically having a wider body, a longer collar and narrower sleeves. The sleeves of the 335:
and wearing the uppermost robe stripped off from the shoulders – became popular, alongside a number of newly-developed textile decoration techniques, such as
1127: 945: 435:, with the only major differences being the proportions of each aspect in comparison to those of a modern kimono. The width of the loom, and hence the 1145: 925: 374:("Chinese textile") silk fabrics, which mimicked embroidery through the use of floating silk yarns and gilt-paper strips, and the elaborate 1591: 250:(1603–1867), at which a point its proportions had diverged to resemble those of modern-day kimono; it was also at this time that the term 1601: 1120: 1056: 649:, due to the length and low placement of the collar, had a far more triangular appearance than the irregular quadrilateral 620:
was much wider than is seen on modern kimono, and was also relatively longer, forming a longer, shallower angle along the
692: 1059:, an exhibition catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art (fully available online as PDF), which contains material on 814: 254:, meaning "thing to wear on the shoulders", first came into use when referring to the garment formerly known as the 1113: 788: 282:, worn directly next to the skin. Both men and women wore layered, wrap-fronted, wide-sleeved robes on top of the 296:, literally "twelve layers" – featuring a greater number of robes than were seen on men. The 1596: 768: 288:, with the style of layering worn by women of the Imperial Japanese court – known as the 809: 361: 1393: 1161: 1292: 1136: 313:
Following dress edicts designed to decrease the number of layered garments worn at court, the
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worn as outerwear. Note, compared to modern kimono, the wider cut of the body, unisex narrow
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See "Woman of the upper class in kosode (=short-sleeved kimono) of Keicho period" under the
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also got longer and began to detach from the body below the shoulder, a style allowing the
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were typically sewn to the body entirely, and often featured heavily rounded outer edges.
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for a woman showing flowers on rafts, late 19th century, Khalili Collection of Kimono
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were much wider in proportion, creating a distinctive dropped-shoulder appearance.
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with Mandarin orange tree design and auspicious characters, late 18th century,
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technique of combination dyework and embroidery, until both were restrained by
1476: 1411: 684: 463: 412: 365: 340: 247: 978:"Woman of the upper class in kosode (=short-sleeved kimono) of Keicho period" 472:
was about 45 centimetres (18 in), and the sleeves were made of one-half
1523: 1384: 459: 455:, and the sleeves and collar were also cut and hemmed to different widths. 39: 57: 1402: 1179: 1170: 1090: 1001: 902: 742: 157: 1568: 1550: 1485: 1438: 1429: 1328: 1319: 1283: 1251: 438: 1559: 1420: 1375: 1346: 1301: 1274: 1267: 1224: 1197: 1188: 432: 305: 220: 50: 1233: 1105: 1532: 1337: 1310: 1215: 1206: 239: 161: 156: 56: 38: 20: 1541: 279: 1109: 336: 1044:
Kosode: 16th–19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection
16:
Historic Japanese garment and the predecessor of the kimono
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style; bottom left: worn as an unbelted robe over another
749:
Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts
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would also be worn as sleeping wear alongside a pair of
1029:
Gluckman, Dale Carolyn, and Sharon Sadako Takeda, eds.
1566: 1557: 1548: 1539: 1530: 1521: 1512: 1492: 1483: 1474: 1454: 1445: 1436: 1427: 1418: 1409: 1400: 1391: 1382: 1373: 1344: 1335: 1326: 1317: 1308: 1299: 1290: 1281: 1272: 1258: 1249: 1240: 1231: 1222: 1213: 1204: 1195: 1186: 1177: 1168: 1159: 1091: 1083: 1071: 1060: 900: 894: 888: 870: 864: 858: 852: 846: 828: 802: 782: 762: 740: 734: 717: 699: 656: 650: 644: 621: 615: 576: 537: 497: 491: 485: 479: 473: 467: 450: 444: 436: 426: 410: 404: 398: 387: 375: 369: 347: 330: 324: 314: 303: 297: 289: 283: 273: 255: 233: 224: 171: 165: 65: 44: 26: 643: – the overlapping front panels. The 1505: 1467: 1366: 1152: 1031:
When Art Became Fashion: Kosode in Edo-Period Japan
722:'s collar is similar to the length of its sleeves. 679:The short sleeve and wide shoulder popular in the 747:dyework inside fan and snowflake shapes, 1700s, 1002:"Kosode: a Japanese garment for the SCA period" 869:style; bottom right: worn over the head in the 629: 584: 545: 506: 272:as an undergarment for both men and women, the 181: 141: 122: 103: 82: 636: 591: 552: 513: 190: 135: 116: 97: 76: 1121: 1057:Momoyama, Japanese Art in the Age of Grandeur 278:was a plain white garment, typically made of 8: 490:(width of the neck opening) was narrow, the 319:gradually became outerwear from roughly the 1070:– an example of period clothing, including 597: 558: 519: 466:), the width of the fabric bolt used for a 242:as common, everyday dress from roughly the 198: 1128: 1114: 1106: 575: – the body panels for the 246:(1185–1333) until the latter years of the 1146:List of items traditionally worn in Japan 1046:. New York: Kodansha International, 1985. 972: 970: 926:List of items traditionally worn in Japan 963:. Vermont: Charles E. Tuttle Publishing. 807:for a woman with design inspired by the 1038:Japanese Costume: History and Tradition 937: 669: 449:was significantly larger than that for 368:. Methods used for decoration included 329: – such as layering two 1082:– includes period clothing, including 7: 614: – the collar of the 219:, and the direct predecessor of the 536: – the sleeves of a 462:period (1596–1615, just before the 661:a sloping, low-waisted appearance. 496:(collar length) was long, and the 14: 1357: 1080:The Tale of Genji Costume Museum 880: 838: 821: 795: 775: 767:for a woman, late 18th century, 755: 727: 709: 691: 672: 655:on modern kimono; this gave the 343:, used to decorate the garment. 484:(cuff opening) was narrow, the 323:onwards. Styles of wearing the 1033:. New York: Weatherhill, 1992. 899:and shorter sleeves. Matsuura 356:, peaked in popularity in the 1: 908: 815:Khalili Collection of Kimono 215:was a type of short-sleeved 1592:Japanese full-body garments 1567: 1558: 1549: 1540: 1531: 1522: 1513: 1493: 1484: 1475: 1455: 1446: 1437: 1428: 1419: 1410: 1401: 1392: 1383: 1374: 1345: 1336: 1327: 1318: 1309: 1300: 1291: 1282: 1273: 1259: 1250: 1241: 1232: 1223: 1214: 1205: 1196: 1187: 1178: 1169: 1160: 1092: 1084: 1072: 1061: 901: 895: 889: 871: 865: 859: 853: 847: 829: 803: 783: 763: 741: 735: 718: 716:The unfolded width of this 700: 657: 651: 645: 630: 622: 616: 585: 577: 546: 538: 507: 498: 492: 486: 480: 474: 468: 451: 445: 437: 427: 417:to become wider over time. 411: 405: 399: 388: 376: 370: 348: 346:Initially undyed, the dyed 331: 325: 315: 304: 298: 290: 284: 274: 256: 234: 225: 182: 176:stripped off the shoulders. 172: 166: 142: 132:The overlapping front panel 123: 104: 83: 66: 45: 27: 1618: 1602:Japanese words and phrases 1040:. New York: Rizzoli, 1990. 789:Metropolitan Museum of Art 1355: 1143: 914:, Azuchi-Momoyama period. 637: 592: 553: 514: 425:The component parts of a 191: 136: 117: 98: 77: 959:Shaver, Ruth M. (1966). 49:(left) and a modern-day 443:(fabric bolt) used for 431:are roughly similar to 386:and the development of 360:, and faded out in the 990:for associated picture 769:Honolulu Museum of Art 177: 154: 54: 36: 1101:Kyoto National Museum 1068:Tokyo National Museum 160: 70:(clockwise from top): 60: 43:Comparison between a 42: 24: 1468:Belt / sash 1006:www.wodefordhall.com 25:Re-enactors wearing 268:Originating in the 946:"V&A · Kimono" 810:Eight Views of Ōmi 178: 155: 55: 37: 1579: 1578: 1137:Japanese clothing 433:those of a kimono 1609: 1572: 1563: 1554: 1545: 1536: 1527: 1518: 1498: 1489: 1480: 1460: 1451: 1442: 1433: 1424: 1415: 1406: 1397: 1388: 1379: 1361: 1350: 1341: 1332: 1323: 1314: 1305: 1296: 1287: 1278: 1264: 1255: 1246: 1237: 1228: 1219: 1210: 1201: 1192: 1183: 1174: 1165: 1130: 1123: 1116: 1107: 1095: 1087: 1075: 1064: 1017: 1016: 1014: 1012: 1000:Joseph, Lisa A. 997: 991: 985: 974: 965: 964: 956: 950: 949: 942: 913: 910: 906: 898: 892: 884: 874: 868: 862: 856: 850: 845:Ways of wearing 842: 832: 825: 806: 799: 786: 779: 766: 759: 746: 738: 731: 721: 713: 703: 695: 681:Muromachi period 676: 660: 654: 648: 642: 640: 639: 633: 625: 619: 613: 611: 608: 605: 602: 599: 595: 594: 588: 580: 574: 572: 569: 566: 563: 560: 556: 555: 549: 541: 535: 533: 530: 527: 524: 521: 517: 516: 510: 501: 495: 489: 483: 477: 471: 454: 448: 442: 430: 416: 408: 402: 393: 381: 373: 354:Muromachi period 351: 334: 328: 318: 309: 301: 295: 287: 277: 259: 237: 228: 217:Japanese garment 214: 212: 209: 206: 203: 200: 196: 195: 187: 175: 169: 149: 148: 145: 139: 138: 128: 126: 120: 119: 109: 107: 101: 100: 90: 89: 86: 80: 79: 69: 48: 30: 1617: 1616: 1612: 1611: 1610: 1608: 1607: 1606: 1582: 1581: 1580: 1575: 1501: 1463: 1362: 1353: 1148: 1139: 1134: 1053: 1036:Kennedy, Alan. 1026: 1021: 1020: 1010: 1008: 999: 998: 994: 976: 975: 968: 958: 957: 953: 944: 943: 939: 934: 922: 915: 911: 885: 876: 843: 834: 826: 817: 800: 791: 780: 771: 760: 751: 732: 723: 714: 705: 696: 687: 677: 668: 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1208: 1203: 1200: 1199: 1194: 1191: 1190: 1185: 1182: 1181: 1176: 1173: 1172: 1167: 1164: 1163: 1158: 1157: 1155: 1151: 1147: 1142: 1138: 1131: 1126: 1124: 1119: 1117: 1112: 1111: 1108: 1102: 1099: 1097: 1094: 1089: 1086: 1081: 1078: 1074: 1069: 1066: 1063: 1058: 1055: 1054: 1050: 1045: 1042: 1039: 1035: 1032: 1028: 1027: 1023: 1007: 1003: 996: 993: 989: 988:"Edo" section 983: 979: 973: 971: 967: 962: 955: 952: 947: 941: 938: 931: 927: 924: 923: 919: 905: 904: 897: 891: 883: 878: 873: 867: 861: 855: 849: 841: 836: 831: 824: 819: 816: 813:, 1780–1820, 812: 811: 805: 798: 793: 790: 785: 778: 773: 770: 765: 758: 753: 750: 745: 744: 737: 730: 725: 720: 712: 707: 702: 694: 689: 686: 682: 675: 670: 665: 659: 653: 647: 632: 628: 624: 618: 587: 583: 579: 548: 544: 540: 509: 505: 504: 503: 500: 494: 488: 482: 476: 470: 465: 461: 456: 453: 447: 441: 440: 434: 429: 420: 418: 415: 414: 407: 401: 395: 392: 391: 390:yuzen dyework 385: 380: 379: 372: 367: 363: 362:Keicho period 359: 355: 350: 344: 342: 338: 333: 327: 322: 317: 311: 308: 307: 300: 294: 293: 286: 281: 276: 271: 263: 261: 258: 253: 249: 245: 241: 236: 230: 227: 222: 218: 208:small sleeves 194: 186: 185: 174: 170:with another 168: 163: 159: 144: 131: 125: 112: 106: 93: 85: 72: 68: 63: 62: 59: 52: 47: 41: 34: 33:Jidai Matsuri 29: 23: 19: 1457:Tsunokakushi 1260: 1043: 1037: 1030: 1024:Bibliography 1009:. Retrieved 1005: 995: 981: 960: 954: 940: 808: 457: 424: 396: 352:came in the 345: 312: 270:Heian period 267: 251: 238:was worn in 231: 183: 179: 18: 1153:Traditional 1096:Made Simple 912: 1650 502:was short. 478:width. The 378:tsujigahana 64:Parts of a 1586:Categories 932:References 685:Edo period 683:and early 481:sode-guchi 464:Edo period 421:Components 366:Edo period 341:embroidery 248:Edo period 164:wearing a 94:The sleeve 73:The collar 1524:Jika-tabi 1385:Hachimaki 1243:Jūnihitoe 854:koshimaki 499:tate-zuma 487:erikatāki 292:jūnihitoe 1506:Footwear 1403:Kanzashi 1367:Headgear 1180:Furisode 1171:Fundoshi 920:See also 866:uchikake 698:A wider 371:kara-ori 113:The body 53:(right). 1551:Uwabaki 1486:Uwa-obi 1439:Tenugui 1430:Shaguma 1394:Kanmuri 1329:Sokutai 1320:Shitagi 1284:Mawashi 1252:Keikogi 1162:Chihaya 1011:10 June 872:katsugi 863:in the 704:sleeve. 666:Gallery 601:  562:  523:  493:eritake 475:tanmono 458:In the 439:tanmono 264:History 202:  35:in 2011 31:at the 1560:Waraji 1495:Tasuki 1421:Raikan 1376:Benkan 1347:Yukata 1302:Nemaki 1275:Kyahan 1268:Kimono 1261:Kosode 1225:Jinbei 1198:Hakama 1189:Hanten 1093:Kosode 1085:kosode 1073:kosode 1062:kosode 890:kosode 875:style. 860:kosode 848:kosode 830:Kosode 804:Kosode 784:Kosode 764:Kosode 736:Kosode 719:kosode 701:kosode 658:kosode 617:kosode 607:collar 578:kosode 547:Migoro 539:kosode 529:sleeve 469:kosode 460:Keichō 452:kimono 446:kosode 428:kosode 406:kosode 400:kosode 349:kosode 337:dyeing 332:kosode 326:kosode 316:kosode 306:hakama 299:kosode 285:kosode 275:kosode 257:kosode 252:kimono 235:kosode 226:kosode 221:kimono 184:kosode 173:kosode 167:kosode 124:migoro 67:kosode 51:kimono 46:kosode 28:kosode 1533:Okobo 1448:Tokin 1338:Uwagi 1311:Samue 1216:Happi 1207:Haori 903:byōbu 743:yūzen 739:with 652:okumi 646:okumi 631:Okumi 623:okumi 240:Japan 162:Oichi 143:okumi 1569:Zōri 1542:Tabi 1515:Geta 1412:Kasa 1293:Mino 1013:2021 887:The 598:lit. 568:body 559:lit. 520:lit. 508:Sode 397:The 364:and 339:and 280:silk 232:The 199:lit. 180:The 105:sode 1477:Obi 1234:Jōe 896:obi 586:Eri 413:obi 84:eri 1588:: 1004:. 980:. 969:^ 909:c. 907:, 596:, 557:, 554:身頃 518:, 394:. 310:. 260:. 197:, 193:小袖 140:, 121:, 118:身頃 102:, 81:, 1129:e 1122:t 1115:v 1076:. 1015:. 984:. 948:. 641:) 638:袵 635:( 626:. 612:) 610:' 604:' 593:襟 590:( 573:) 571:' 565:' 551:( 534:) 532:' 526:' 515:袖 512:( 213:) 211:' 205:' 189:( 150:. 147:) 137:袵 134:( 129:; 127:) 115:( 110:; 108:) 99:袖 96:( 91:; 88:) 78:襟 75:(

Index


Jidai Matsuri
Two line drawings of a kosode and a kimono. The kosode has a long, wide collar, a wide, stout body, a roughly-triangular overlapping front panel and short, squat sleeves with a rounded edge. The kimono has wider, square-shaped sleeves, a thinner body, a shorter, thinner collar and a rectangular front panel intersected by the collar.
kimono
An annotated line drawing of a kosode.
A drawing of a woman sat on a tatami mat wearing a number of layered white and red kosode.
Oichi
小袖
Japanese garment
kimono
Japan
Kamakura period
Edo period
Heian period
silk
jūnihitoe
hakama
Kamakura period
dyeing
embroidery
Muromachi period
Momoyama period
Keicho period
Edo period
tsujigahana
sumptuary laws
yuzen dyework
obi
those of a kimono
tanmono

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