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climbing from the Achik-Tash canyon in the Alai valley. The summit attempt itself was started along the
Western ice slope of the Lenin glacier. They continued climbing along the North Face, passing the rocks that were later given the name Lipkin's Rocks. At the end of the second day they reached the crest of the NE ridge at an elevation of about 6500 m. During the following day and a half they climbed along the NE Ridge and, utterly exhausted, reached the summit.
697:
81:
25:
534:
373:, and is the second-highest point of both countries. It is considered one of the less technical 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb and it has by far the most ascents of any 7,000 m or higher peak on Earth, with every year seeing hundreds of mountaineers make their way to the summit. Lenin Peak is the highest mountain in the
609:. From the river head they continued climbing along the Greater Saukdara Glacier towards a saddle at an elevation of 5820 m (this saddle is also known as the Krilenko Pass). On September 25, 1928, they started climbing from the saddle along the NE Ridge and at 15.30 they reached the summit. At the time, Kaufman Peak was the
623:
The third ascent was three years later, in 1937, when eight Soviet climbers under the direction of Lev
Barkhash reached the summit by the same route. This was at the beginning of mass political repressions in the Soviet Union and many of the most prominent Soviet climbers, including Lev Barkhash,
558:
Initial exploration of this part of
Central Asia occurred in the period 1774–82. Arguably the first recorded travel through the region is the involuntary journey of the slave Filipp Efremov (an ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the
627:
Subsequent attempts to climb Lenin Peak could not begin until 1950, when the USSR began to recover from the Second World War. On August 14, 1950, twelve climbers (V. Aksenov, K, Zaporojchenko, Y. Izrael, V. Kovalev, A. Kormshikov, Y. Maslov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nikonov, V. Nozdryuhin, I.
619:
On
September 8, 1934, at 16:20 Kasian Chernuha, Vitaly Abalakov and Ivan Lukin, three members of a Soviet expedition, reached the summit at an elevation of 7,134 metres (23,406 ft). Their attempt lasted for four days with three camps (5,700 m, 6,500 m and 7,000 m). The expedition started
711:
As it is now, considering the existing infrastructure and BC/ABC locations, there are three most attractive routes from the North (approximately indicated on the Scheme): Lipkin's rocks route and NE Ridge; the classic North Face route; the route via
Razdelnaya Peak and the NW Ridge.
537:
As it is now, in consideration of an existing infrastructure and BC/ABC location, there are three most attractive routes from the North (as it is approximately indicated on the Scheme): Lipkin's rocks route and NE Ridge; North Face classical route; Razdelnaya route and NW Ridge
656:
There are 16 established routes, nine on the southern side and seven on the northern slopes. The peak is quite popular with climbers due to its easy access and some uncomplicated routes. However, the peak is not without its share of disasters.
634:
The route which now is known as the classic route, via the
Razdelnaya Peak and NW Ridge, was first climbed in 1954 by the team of Soviet climbers under the direction of V. Kovalev (P. Karpov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nozdryuhin).
604:
made the first attempt to reach the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range, which at that time had the name
Kaufman Peak. They started climbing upstream of the Saukdara river along the South slope of Trans-Alai Range also
566:
discovered the Trans-Alai (Zaalayskiy) Range and its main peak. The first geographical expedition which came nearest to the base of the future Lenin Peak in the early 20th century was arguably the expedition of
616:
The title Lenin Peak was first applied to the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range in the same year (1928). When it was renamed after Lenin it was believed to be the highest point in the USSR.
664:
maintained radio contact with base camp as her team-mates perished around her. In her final words she said, 'I'm alone now, with just a few minutes left to live. See you in eternity.'
939:
852:
907:Ф.С. Ефремов."Девятилетнее странствование и приключения в Бухарии, Хиве, Персии и Индии и возвращение оттуда через Англию в Россию" изд. Санкт-Петербург 1786
513:, is also the name of a plateau and a base camp at an elevation of 3,600 m on a popular northern climbing route to Lenin Peak, which starts in the southern
1143:
559:
Chigirik Pass and
Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. He was the first European who crossed the Alai Mountains.
1148:
675:, V. Suviga, Y. Moiseev and A. Tselischev. The climb beginning from ABC base camp (4400 m) to the summit and return to ABC base camp took 12 hours.
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610:
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682:, made the first winter ascent of Lenin Peak in 1988. With temperatures hovering at -45 °C, only six men reached the summit: including
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389:(7,495 m). It was thought to be the highest point in the Pamirs in Tajikistan until 1933, when Ismoil Somoni Peak (known as
1047:
751:
138:
37:
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40:, as all the names are confusingly written; it is written like a tour guide; and its information is jumbled together.
595:
563:
486:. A peak named "Manas Peak" already exists in Kyrgyzstan; it is a mountain of 4,488 metres (14,724 ft) in the
631:
All three Soviet expeditions including Racec's expedition of 1950 were by almost the same route via the NE Ridge.
678:
Under the leadership of Leonid
Troshchinenko the team, composed of 19 mountaineers from Leningrad and three from
653:
In 1960, a group of eight Soviet climbers made a successful direct climb along the North Face (15.08.1960).
476:
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at the time) was climbed and found to be more than 300 metres higher. Two mountains in the Pamirs in China,
323:
896:
638:
297:
109:
542:
343:
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864:
Anarbaev, M. and
Watanabe, T. (2008): Tourism in the Pamir-Alai Mountains, southern Kyrgyz Republic.
661:
989:
683:
668:
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In August 1974, an entire team of eight Russian women climbers died high on the mountain in a storm.
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131:
645:, a decorated Estonian mountaineer, at the top of Lenin Peak in 1989. This marked the first time an
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437:. In Tajikistan, the peak was renamed again in July 2006, and today it is officially called in
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525:("wild pig", "boar") probably belongs to an officially unnamed peak west of Lenin Peak.
24:
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Rojkov) under the direction of Vladimir Racek reached the summit for the fourth time.
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In 1987 the first solo ascent was achieved by the great high altitude mountaineer
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The first high-speed ascent of Lenin Peak was completed in 1987. The team, led by
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Place Names as an Ecotourism Resource for the Alai Valley of the Kyrgyz Pamir
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147:
1111:
1106:
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invent the Days of History and Remembering the Elders?] (in Russian).
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521:, a day's drive north of the border. Another suggested local name,
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637:
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Scientific expeditions to the Alai Mountains began in 1871, when
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called for renaming the peak "Manas Peak", after the hero of the
686:, Balyberdin, S. Arsentiev, U. Moiseev, I. Tulaiev and V. Dedi.
546:
A climber poses on the summit of Lenin Peak next to the bust of
828:
1107:
Description district Lenin Peak, climbing routes on Lenin Peak
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940:"The 1974 Russian womens' [sic] tragedy on Peak Lenin"
736:
listed here as Pik Achiktash (ex. Lenina) retrieved 21-09-2011
518:
18:
1017:
365:) in July 2006), rises to 7,134 metres (23,406 ft) in
892:
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888:
42:
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Achik-Tash camp in Kyrgyzstan on the way to Lenin Peak
800:"Зачем Атамбаев придумал Дни истории и памяти предков"
749:
Government Resolution No. 297, July 4, 2006, Dushanbe
328:
1073:"Avalanche Kills 40 Climbers in Soviet Central Asia"
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1928 by Karl Wien, Eugen Allwein and Erwin Schneider
463:In Kyrgyzstan, the peak is still officially called
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574:In September 1928, three mountaineers—the Germans
700:Memorial to the victims of the avalanche of 1990
208:Location in Tajikistan, on the Kyrgyzstan border
1004:"Я остаюсь человеком Гор, а не беговой дорожки"
1048:"Hero of Everest Tragedy Was Climbing Prodigy"
855:, Geographical Studies, Vol. 88, No. 2, page 9
401:(7,546 m), are higher than the Tajik summits.
1118:"Asia, USSR, Pik Lenina, First Winter Ascent"
8:
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16:Mountain on the Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border
360:
354:
847:
845:
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727:
725:
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928:http://www.skitalets.ru/books/pik_lenina/
744:
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309:
897:Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak
721:
649:was flown at an altitude over 7,000 m.
429:revolutionary and first leader of the
1112:Alternative 3D map of climbing routes
966:Wanda Rutkiewicz: A Caravan of Dreams
671:, included G. Lunyakov, Z. Khalitov,
385:in Tajikistan it is exceeded only by
7:
1120:. American Alpine Club Publications.
1071:Clines, Francis X. (July 18, 1990).
1035:. American Alpine Club Publications.
706:avalanche triggered by an earthquake
421:. In 1928, the mountain was renamed
417:, the first Governor-General of the
968:. Ross-on-Wye: Carreg. p. 31.
602:Soviet-German scientific expedition
569:Nikolai Leopol'dovich Korzhenevskiy
195:
114:2,853 m (9,360 ft)
14:
1033:"Pik Lenina, First Winter Ascent"
1018:"Забег на Хан-Тенгри в 1993 году"
36:to comply with Knowledge (XXG)'s
409:Lenin Peak was originally named
194:
187:
79:
23:
1149:International mountains of Asia
1154:Seven-thousanders of the Pamir
1116:Troshchinenko, Leonid (1989).
1031:Troshchinenko, Leonid (1989).
868:, 55 (1), 56–59. (in Japanese)
851:Teiji Watanabe et al. (2013),
1:
990:"Andrey Puchinin - Skyrunner"
611:highest summit reached by men
475:). However, in October 2017,
1144:Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border
1046:Kalman, Chris (2016-09-01).
787:Lenin Peak on summitpost.org
708:killed 43 climbers in 1990.
371:Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border
964:Reinisch, Gertrude (2000).
529:Climbing history and routes
458:Abu Ali ibn Sina (Avicenna)
361:
350:qulla‘i Lenin/qullaji Lenin
349:
329:
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754:November 29, 2007, at the
564:Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko
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1102:Lenin Peak on summitpost
917:Ефремов (филипп Сергеев)
362:qulla‘i Abûalî ibni Sino
285:Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak
49:may contain suggestions.
34:may need to be rewritten
1139:Mountains of Tajikistan
1134:Mountains of Kyrgyzstan
624:were brought to trial.
446:қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино
442:Qullai Abuali ibni Sino
356:қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино
274:rock / snow / ice climb
701:
650:
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161:39.34250°N 72.87750°E
789:retrieved 21-09-2011
684:Valery Khrichtchatyi
669:Valery Khrichtchatyi
589:, and the Austrian
505:("Wind's God") and
452:or, alternatively,
157: /
1078:The New York Times
773:2007-03-12 at the
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556:
552:flag of Kyrgyzstan
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480:Almazbek Atambayev
415:Konstantin Kaufman
387:Ismoil Somoni Peak
166:39.34250; 72.87750
94:Highest point
1052:Adventure Journal
866:Chiri (Geography)
419:Russian Turkestan
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38:quality standards
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673:Anatoli Boukreev
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607:Trans-Alay Range
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509:("Open Rock").
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501:names include
435:Vladimir Lenin
411:Mount Kaufmann
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946:on 2012-08-13
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484:Epic of Manas
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465:Lenin Chokusu
461:
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454:Avicenna Peak
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450:Ibn Sina Peak
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304:Lenin Choqusu
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74:Ibn Sina Peak
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32:This article
30:
26:
21:
20:
1082:. Retrieved
1076:
1066:
1055:. Retrieved
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1026:
1012:
998:
984:
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948:. Retrieved
944:the original
934:
923:
912:
903:
881:(in Russian)
873:
865:
860:
833:. Retrieved
829:"Manas Peak"
823:
812:. Retrieved
810:. 2017-10-27
808:Kaktus Media
794:
782:
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734:Peaklist.org
710:
703:
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492:Talas Region
488:Talas Alatau
472:
469:Ленин Чокусу
468:
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431:Soviet Union
422:
410:
408:
390:
379:Central Asia
339:қуллаи Ленин
310:لەنىن چوقۇسۇ
293:Ленин Чокусу
284:
280:
279:
258:First ascent
235:Parent range
52:
43:You can help
33:
643:Jaan Künnap
594: [
579: [
399:Muztagh Ata
395:Kongur Tagh
391:Stalin Peak
164: /
139:Coordinates
1128:Categories
1084:2010-03-14
1057:2021-01-31
950:2020-03-05
835:2017-11-05
814:2017-11-05
716:References
680:Kazakhstan
600:—from the
511:Achik-Tash
507:Achyk-Tash
473:Lenin Peak
425:after the
423:Lenin Peak
353:, renamed
330:Pik Lenina
319:Пик Ленина
281:Lenin Peak
226:Tajikistan
222:Kyrgyzstan
202:Lenin Peak
152:72°52′39″E
149:39°20′33″N
110:Prominence
87:Sary Mogol
69:Lenin Peak
804:Atambayev
587:Karl Wien
523:Pik Kaman
503:Jel-Aidar
490:range in
344:romanized
324:romanized
298:romanized
177:Geography
100:Elevation
55:June 2022
47:talk page
1159:Avicenna
771:Archived
752:Archived
550:and the
517:city of
456:) after
252:Climbing
218:Location
764:Russian
762:); for
427:Russian
346::
326::
315:Russian
300::
127:Listing
972:
831:. GoKG
515:Kyrgyz
499:Kyrgyz
497:Local
413:after
289:Kyrgyz
245:Pamirs
228:border
104:7134 m
45:. The
766:text
760:Tajik
598:]
583:]
439:Tajik
405:Names
335:Tajik
132:Ultra
970:ISBN
585:and
768:see
704:An
519:Osh
377:of
283:or
1130::
1075:.
1050:.
887:^
844:^
741:^
724:^
613:.
596:de
581:de
571:.
494:.
471:,
460:.
448:,
433:,
341:,
337::
333:;
321:,
317::
313:;
307:,
295:,
291::
1087:.
1060:.
1020:.
1006:.
992:.
978:.
953:.
838:.
817:.
777:.
758:(
693:.
554:.
467:(
444:(
359:(
287:(
247:)
243:(
224:–
57:)
53:(
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