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being closely followed and recorded in the climbing media. When
British climber Maddy Cope climbed it in 2019 she said: "The route is a dream line, one that you see pictures of your climbing heroes on but never think you will actually do it yourself". When Anna Hazelnutt climbed it in 2023 with Tom
339:
repeated Wasina's route, and then made the difficult moves to extend the route rightwards into another set of even smaller fissure cracks through an almost blank featureless section of 6 metres (20 ft) to create an even harder 40-metre (130 ft) sport climb that he graded at
369:
as a traditional climb. He said: "The Burs Face has always fascinated me. The climb is very particular and uses tiny edges and footholds. If you try it too often you bloody your fingers and wear through the rubber on your shoes. It's a hell of a battle."
397:
Randall, she said: "Prinzip
Hoffnung is seriously a dream climb! Tom and I have been eyeing this line for quite some time now, a perfect mix of crack and slab – although it was definitely more cracky than I anticipated".
381:(FFFA) of the route. Even a decade after Kammerlander's first ascent, the route had only recorded its tenth ascent, and in 2023, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world.
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has an equal significance in my personal development", and "Major climbing projects demand development inside myself and that was exactly the case here".
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353:) and spent several months training and mentally preparing himself (and admitting to sleepless nights worrying about the falls), to reclimb it as a
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The route is an important part of Beat
Kammerlender's legacy, who was one of Europe's strongest rock climbers in the 1990s, and who made the
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of the lower part of the route up the length of the first 25-metre (82 ft) thin crack that splits the face, which he did as a
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route is considered a classic crack/slab traditional climb and an important testpiece, with subsequent repeats of
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route. During his attempts, he took several 15-metre (49 ft) falls from its crux onto small
309:(British); it is still considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world.
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1287:"Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander's perfect trad climb at Bürs"
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This article is about the
Austrian climbing route. For the book by Ernst Bloch, see
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in 2009, and was one of the earliest traditional climbing routes to be graded at
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840:"Principle Hope: climber Beat Kammerlander scales vertical cliff in Austria"
1313:"Lena Marie Müller: Fourth female ascent of the principle hope principle"
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1209:"Nemuel Feurle climbs the principle of hope at the age of 16 years"
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675:"Prinzip Hoffnung, from Beat Kammerlander madness to new classic"
1235:"Madeleine Cope deals with difficult trad slab Prinzip Hoffnung"
541:
1102:"Michi Wohlleben Sends Hard Trad then Gets Bacteria Infection"
1468:
VIDEO: Jacopo
Larcher and Barbara Zangerl on Prinzip Hoffnung
1339:"Anna Hazlett tiptoes up Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs in Austria"
961:"Nadine Wallner picture-perfect on Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs"
612:, American 5.14b-graded traditional climbing route from 2006
604:, American 5.12a-graded traditional climbing route from 1978
1393:"Iris Bielli blasts up Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs in Austria"
361:
below. In
September 2009, Kammerlander, aged 50, made the
596:, British E9-graded traditional climbing route from 1986
905:"Anna Hazelnutt Sends Iconic Spicy Trad Line in Europe"
873:"Babsi Zangerl Sends Test-Piece Prinzip Hoffnung 5.14"
317:
In 1997, Austrian climber Marco Wasina made the first
706:"Lena Marie Müller Sends Prinzip Hoffnung 5.14R Trad"
1132:"Michi Wohlleben climbs Prinzip Hoffnung F8b+/E9/10"
768:"Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnung in Austria"
205:
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81:
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1458:VIDEO: Beat Kammerlander climbing Prinzip Hoffnung
807:"Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung"
735:"The World's Hardest Trad Routes by Winter 2021"
347:In 2009, Kammerlander removed the bolts (called
1047:"Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger"
1420:"20-Year-Old Climbs 5.13d/14a Trad in Austria"
1183:"Young Nemuel Feurle masters Prinzip Hoffnung"
992:"Now Maddy Cope Sends Pinzip Hoffnung 5.14 R"
729:
727:
8:
1074:"Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+ E9/10, by Fabi Buhl"
416: (5.14a). In 2009, Kammerlander said: "
1262:"Maddy Cope climbs Prinzip Hoffnung F8b/E9"
508:8th. Nemuel Feurle, aged 16, in April 2018.
377:made the fifth overall free ascent and the
446:has been ascended by (first ten ascents):
27:
1478:VIDEO: Anne Hazelnutt on Prinzip Hoffnung
1157:"Michael Gunsilius climbs principle hope"
1022:"Prinzip Hoffnung E9/10 by Anna Hazlett"
572:4th. Lena Marie Müller in February 2020.
505:7th. Michael Gunsilius in February 2018.
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931:"The Hardest Trad Climbs in the World"
929:Kuelthau, Willis (24 September 2019).
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258:rock slab on the "Bürs plate cliff" (
247:), is a 40-metre (130 ft) long
16:Traditional climbing route in Austria
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578:6th. Anna Hazelnutt in March 2023.
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328:. A few months later, his friend
36:Principle Hope (Principle of Hope)
14:
1364:Miller, Delaney (21 March 2023).
1020:Berry, Nathalie (20 March 2023).
575:5th. Luisa Deubzer in March 2022.
464:2nd. Alex Luger in December 2009.
1366:"Anna Hazelnutt Ticks 5.14 Gear"
373:In March 2014, Austrian climber
67:
60:
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581:7th. Iris Bielli in March 2024.
1418:Pardy, Aaron (20 March 2024).
903:Pardy, Aaron (23 April 2023).
224:(2009, as a traditional climb)
1:
1130:Brown, Nick (13 March 2019).
266:) overlooking the village of
1260:Brown, Nick (2 April 2019).
1072:Pohl, Bjorn (7 March 2014).
1498:Traditional climbing routes
683:(in Spanish). 10 March 2014
540:First female free ascents (
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47:Anna Hazelnutt inspecting
18:
222:(1997, as a sport climb),
55:
40:
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379:first female free ascent
631:"Prinzip Hoffnung X/X+"
166:40 metres (130 ft)
440:
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146:
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412: (5.13c) and of
254:on a thin crack up a
21:The Principle of Hope
493:Christian Bindhammer
282:by Austrian climber
249:traditional climbing
157:Traditional climbing
123:47.15078°N 9.80127°E
1508:Climbing in Austria
1503:Sport in Vorarlberg
848:. 29 September 2009
845:The Daily Telegraph
119: /
1163:. 12 February 2018
461:in September 2009.
441:
432:Climber abseiling
406:multi-pitch routes
741:. 1 February 2021
452:Beat Kammerlander
363:first free ascent
330:Beat Kammerlander
284:Beat Kammerlander
244:Principle of Hope
228:
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212:Beat Kammerlander
207:First free ascent
128:47.15078; 9.80127
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418:Prinzip Hoffnung
408:at the grade of
394:Prinzip Hoffnung
390:Prinzip Hoffnung
367:Prinzip Hoffnung
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278:. The route was
232:Prinzip Hoffnung
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1442:External links
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1397:PlanetMountain
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1343:PlanetMountain
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1319:. 6 March 2020
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1215:. 3 April 2018
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998:. 3 April 2019
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712:. 3 March 2020
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527:Nadine Wallner
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1427:. Retrieved
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1401:. Retrieved
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1375:. Retrieved
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1349:15 September
1347:. Retrieved
1345:. March 2023
1342:
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1323:15 September
1321:. Retrieved
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1295:. Retrieved
1293:. March 2020
1290:
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1243:. Retrieved
1241:. April 2019
1238:
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1217:. Retrieved
1212:
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1191:. Retrieved
1189:. April 2018
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1165:. Retrieved
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1110:. Retrieved
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1055:. Retrieved
1053:. March 2010
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1000:. Retrieved
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971:15 September
969:. Retrieved
967:. March 2019
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938:. Retrieved
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912:. Retrieved
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881:. Retrieved
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850:. Retrieved
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815:. Retrieved
813:. March 2009
810:
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776:. Retrieved
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685:. Retrieved
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25:
935:99 boulders
609:Cobra Crack
593:Indian Face
560: [
530: [
516: [
496: [
475: [
472:Fabian Buhl
455: [
404:ascents of
355:traditional
333: [
326:sport climb
305:(UIAA), or
287: [
215: [
197:(UIAA), or
126: /
101:Coordinates
1492:Categories
1266:UKClimbing
1136:UKClimbing
1078:UKClimbing
1026:UKClimbing
617:References
402:first-ever
344:(French).
301:(French),
272:Vorarlberg
193:(French),
153:Route type
111:47°09′03″N
90:Vorarlberg
365:(FFA) of
201:(British)
114:9°48′05″E
1429:10 April
1403:10 April
1371:Climbing
745:21 March
680:Desnivel
586:See also
544:) were:
319:redpoint
82:Location
1452:theCrag
635:theCrag
424:Ascents
313:History
276:Austria
172:Pitches
94:Austria
1484:(2023)
1474:(2023)
1464:(2009)
1454:(2023)
1317:LACrux
1213:LACrux
1161:LACrux
525:10th.
385:Legacy
342:8b/8b+
323:bolted
307:E9-E10
295:5.14 R
260:German
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