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saying: "Steve McClure is the climber who almost single-handedly has dictated the pace of cutting-edge sport climbing in the UK. Practically all the hardest climbs in the country are his, starting in 1998 with his 9a
Mutation at Ravens Tor".
1410:
This testpiece is
Britain's third 9a. "The big bang", situated at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales was climbed by Neil Carson in 1996. "Mutation", an extension to Jerry Moffat's 8c+ "Evolution", was climbed by Steve McClure in
347:
until he was 24, and said that it took him time to adapt saying, " it's possible to commit 100%, rather than considering the risk and the danger ". He went from onsighting E6 to onsighting
478:
just fill me with dread, and I have absolutely no drive to do them at all.", and, " I like the technical challenge of placing gear, but I'm not interested in death routes".
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2419:
540:, and a citation calling him: "a true legend of this sport and his nomination rewards a lifetime of cutting-edge climbing"; the four nominees were Steve McClure,
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826:. First ascent; McClure used three ropes for protection due the danger of cutting a rope on the sharp arete in a fall; featured in the films
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323: (5.14d) and above in Britain. Although mainly known for sport climbing, McClure has also been one of the most successful British
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For the next two decades, McClure dominated
British sport climbing, repeating the hardest routes of his predecessors such as
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The hardest onsight of a traditional climbing route in
Britain was considered to be James Pearson's 2014's ascent of
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367: (5.14d). As a late-comer to sport climbing, McClure had mixed form in competitions, retiring in 2004.
2020:
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319: (5.15b) sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded
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While McClure is best known for sport climbing, he is one of the few who have repeated the hardest
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for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, he created
517:(E8 6c), one of the hardest onsights of a traditional climb in Britain, and in 2021, he flashed
339:
McClure started climbing early as both parents were keen climbers, and by age 16 was onsighting
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673:. First ascent. Has become one of the most well-regarded and coveted 9a routes in Britain.
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in 2013). In 2009, he was unlucky not to become the first
British climber to onsight an
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1427:"Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure's first ascent at Raven Tor"
597:. First ascent. The second-ever 9a route in Britain. Only repeated 23-years later by
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and climbing author, who is widely regarded as
Britain's leading and most important
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Creating hardest
British sport climbs; repeating hardest British traditional climbs
1233:"Leading rock climber Steve McClure handed honorary degree at Teesside University"
949:. First ascent of a project that had been tried unsuccessfully by several parties.
2351:
2346:
1700:"The Spring of Trad: Three 5.14 FA's Rank Among the World's Hardest Trad Routes"
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1608:"Steve McClure grabs the second ascent of Lexicon, E11 trad climb at Pavey Ark"
983:. 2nd ascent a few weeks after Neil Gresham's FFA; McClure took a 70-foot fall.
747:'s 1990 watershed route in British sport climbing; now considered closer to 9a.
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1640:"Interview: Steve McClure, the second ascent of Lexicon E11 7a and that fall"
1456:"Will Bosi Suggests 5.15a Upgrade to Mutation After First Repeat Since 1998"
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458:(E10 7a), in 2019. On traditional climbing risk, he had said: "Routes like
1880:"Steve McClure flashes Impact Day, difficult trad climb at Pavey Ark, UK"
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182:
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654:
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482:
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400: (5.15a), Britain's first 9a+. In 2000, he freed Britain's third
396: (5.14d); but on its first repeat 23 years later was regraded to
388:(8c+), and developing Britain's first 9a routes. In 1998, he created
1128:
The first
British 9a+ was considered to be John Gaskin's 2004 route,
89:
2101:"Stu Littlefair talks about his ascent of Rainshadow and Kepler 16b"
1106:
The first
British 9a was considered to be Neil Carson's 1996 route,
485:
routes, and in 2002, became the first
British climber to onsight an
331:
climbers (in both sport climbing and traditional climbing formats).
1848:"Interview: Steve McClure makes first onsight of Nightmayer E8 6c"
1576:"Steve McClure, 46, Establishes the U.K.'s First 5.15b, Rainman"
1549:"Steve McClure frees Rainman at Malham Cove, Britain's first 9b"
966:. First onsight flash and 2nd ascent of Dave Birkett's 1999 FFA.
1008:
Sport Climbing+: The Positive Approach to Improve Your Climbing
493:
at Kilnsey (he has since onsighted more routes at 8b+, such as
454:(E11 7a, 5.14a R) in 2021. He has also freed projects such as
119:
1733:"Pembroke demon route Choronzon slain by strong Steve McClure"
1259:
McClure, Steve (November 2014). "Chapter 10. God's own Rock".
416:. In June 2017, aged 46, McClure completed long term project
1517:"Steve McClure Succeeds at Malham. UK's Hardest Sport Route!"
855:'s 2006 route; one of the world's hardest traditional routes.
532:
In 2013, McClure became the first-ever British nominee for a
2322:
2239:"Steve McClure Climbs Britain's Hardest, Rainman (9b/5.15b)"
1298:"Words with Steve McClure on Hard British Trad and Whippers"
936:. First onsight and 4th ascent of Steve Mayer's 1990s route.
1671:"First ascent of GreatNess Wall (E10 7a) for Steve McClure"
804:
is now considered to be the first-ever 9b route in Britain.
2047:"Josh Ibbotson bags fifth ascent of Northern Lights (F9a)"
1485:"Bosi makes historic second ascent of Mutation (F9a+/b?)"
1358:"How Steve McClure Became Britain's Best Sport Climber"
633:. First ascent. The 3rd 9a in Britain, and repeated by
363: (5.14b); within 4 years, at age 28, he was doing
1763:"News Flash: Steve McClure on-sights F8b+ in Chulilla"
1033:
How Steve McClure Became Britain’s Best Sport Climber
889:. North Wales. First British onsight of the classic
689:. First ascent. The second 9a+ in Britain; in 2011,
513:, Spain. In 2019, McClure made the first onsight of
581:'s 1995 test piece, which is still a coveted route.
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2211:"Steve McClure climbs Rainman: Britain's first 9b"
1793:"Steve McClure flashes Tom et Je Ris, 8b+, Verdon"
2266:"James Pearson repeats Elder Statesman at Curbar"
1910:"Steve McClure on Strawberries Onsight Interview"
1332:"Video + interview: Steve McClure on Hubble 8c+"
1939:"Sweet taste of Strawberries for Steve McClure"
1054:Richard Heap, Ben Pritchard (director) (2007).
613: (5.15a), which would make it the world's
1010:(Steve McClure, Adrian Berry), December 2006.
657:. First British onsight of an 8b+ sport climb.
906:. 2nd ascent after Neil Mawson's FFA in 2014.
521:(E8 6c). McClure's first British onsight of
408:. In 2007, McClure created Britain's second
8:
1969:"Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations"
1057:Steve McClure 9a+ (Episode 2, HardXS Series)
21:
872:. First one-day ascent of all 4-pitches of
505: (5.14b) failing at the final move of
2334:International Federation of Sport Climbing
2293:"Steve McClure Repeats The Quarryman (E8)"
1510:
1508:
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1179:International Federation of Sport Climbing
20:
1996:"McClure Nominated for Arco Rock Legends"
1819:"Steve McClure 8c Onsight? UPDATED 7 Oct"
743: , Raven Tor. Circa fifth ascent of
450:, 5.14c R/X) in 2008, and Neil Gresham's
351: (5.12b); within one year was doing
1136:route at Giggleswick in North Yorkshire.
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729: (5.14d), Raven Tor. First ascent.
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1261:Beyond Limits: A life through climbing
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1085:List of first ascents (sport climbing)
994:Beyond Limits: A life through climbing
609:, who suggested a grade of "at least"
359:in a day; within 2 years he was doing
2420:Alumni of the University of Sheffield
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1030:Patterson, Richie (director) (2018).
7:
2415:English non-fiction outdoors writers
1395:"Steve McClure climbs 9a in England"
1231:Blackburn, Mike (25 November 2015).
1226:
1224:
1202:"Steve McClure – The Full Interview"
1102:
1100:
2425:Climbing and mountaineering writers
2185:"Steve McClure Climbs Batman, 9a/+"
1994:Campbell, Duncan (19 August 2013).
800: (5.14d), to finish directly.
529:(E7 6b) in 2014, was also notable.
343:. McClure did not take up British
1638:Sterling, Sarah (4 October 2020).
14:
2410:21st-century English male writers
2400:Sportspeople from North Yorkshire
1908:Campbell, Duncan (18 June 2014).
1791:Campbell, Duncan (17 July 2013).
1200:Smith, Abbey (21 February 2008).
303:(born 25 July 1970) is a British
102:169 cm (5 ft 7 in)
2405:English male non-fiction writers
2237:Pritchard, Ben (19 April 2018).
2183:Campbell, Duncan (23 May 2013).
2021:"McHaffie makes historic repeat"
1937:Messenger, Alex (18 June 2014).
1846:Sterling, Sarah (17 July 2019).
1731:Messenger, Alex (14 July 2015).
1698:Gardner, Hannah (18 June 2019).
1060:(Motion picture). SlackJaw Films
996:(Steve McClure), November 2014.
709:. First ascent (an extension of
274:(E11 7a, 5.14b R/X) (2nd ascent)
2390:People from Saltburn-by-the-Sea
2209:Messenger, Alex (5 June 2017).
2157:"5.15a Second Ascent for Ondra"
392:, at the time Britain's second
2291:Geldhard, Jack (30 May 2011).
2216:British Mountaineering Council
1944:British Mountaineering Council
1853:British Mountaineering Council
1738:British Mountaineering Council
1645:British Mountaineering Council
1574:Pritchard, Ben (6 June 2017).
763:. First ascent, links up with
1:
1817:Ryan, Micj (2 October 2019).
436:routes in Britain, including
2072:Glasby, Tim (15 June 2012).
1393:Pohl, Björn (25 July 2000).
1356:Pritchard, Ben (June 2018).
1036:(Motion picture). RoccaVerde
717:in 2010 who confirmed grade.
693:repeated it as a "hard 9a+".
2360:Steve McClure on Rainman 9b
2155:Fox, Amanda (30 May 2012).
2074:"McClure storms Rainshadow"
1669:Brown, Nick (29 May 2019).
1330:Geldard, Jack (July 2012).
809:Traditional climbing routes
2441:
1515:Ryan, Mick (29 May 2007).
915:(E9/10 6c), Stennis Ford,
481:McClure is also known for
404: (5.14d), Ben Moon's
294:Updated on 13 January 2022
876:'s 1986 slate test-piece.
293:
289:
130:
75:North Riding of Yorkshire
1080:History of rock climbing
1028:Documentary on McClure:
110:57 kg (126 lb)
2128:"Ondra gets Overshadow"
2126:Björn Pohl (May 2011).
1048:Documentary on freeing
420:, Britain's first-ever
315:, Britain's first-ever
902:(E10 7a), East Range,
786:. First ascent; links
601:, despite attempts by
2395:British rock climbers
847:(E11 7a, 5.14c R/X),
561:Sport climbing routes
412: (5.15a) route,
2352:Climbing.com profile
1149:(E9 7a) at Pembroke.
864:(E8 7a), Twll Mawr,
434:traditional climbing
424: (5.15b), with
325:traditional climbers
189: (5.14a) sport;
174: (5.15b) sport;
152:Traditional climbing
93:Sheffield University
29:Personal information
16:British rock climber
1614:. 29 September 2021
1304:. 29 September 2021
1147:Something's Burning
975:(E11 7a, 5.14a R),
919:. 6th ascent after
834:The Elder Statesman
713:), and repeated by
577:. Fourth ascent of
489: (5.14a) with
470:The Bells The Bells
71:Saltburn-by-the-Sea
25:
2270:PlanetMountain.com
2107:. 9 September 2015
1973:PlanetMountain.com
1884:PlanetMountain.com
1612:PlanetMountain.com
1553:PlanetMountain.com
1431:PlanetMountain.com
1399:PlanetMountain.com
851:. First repeat of
2366:(interview, 2017)
2272:. 9 February 2013
1769:. 12 January 2016
1491:. 2 November 2021
1462:. 2 November 2021
1433:. 2 November 2021
1130:Violent New Breed
793: (5.13b) to
711:Northern Exposure
538:Arco Rock Legends
534:Salewa Rock Award
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2323:Official website
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2053:. 31 August 2021
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1174:"STEVE MC CLURE"
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1975:. 6 August 2013
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923:'s FFA in 2010.
866:Dinorwic quarry
816:Elder Statesman
811:
782: (5.15b),
759: (5.14d),
705: (5.14d),
685: (5.15a),
669: (5.14d),
653: (5.14a),
629: (5.14d),
624:Northern Lights
593: (5.14d),
573: (5.14c),
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556:Notable ascents
406:Northern Lights
337:
335:Climbing career
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135:Climbing career
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2027:. 31 July 2011
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64:25 July 1970
39:Strong Steve
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2380:1970 births
1460:Gripped.com
1302:Gripped.com
1023:Filmography
891:Ron Fawcett
820:Curbar Edge
784:Malham Cove
761:Malham Cove
724:Stevolution
687:Malham Cove
671:Malham Cove
615:second-ever
552:(who won).
523:Ron Fawcett
465:Indian Face
194:traditional
179:traditional
44:Nationality
2374:Categories
2364:UKClimbing
2302:14 January
2276:14 January
2250:13 January
2222:13 January
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1213:13 January
1185:13 January
1157:References
1134:bouldering
1064:15 January
1050:Overshadow
1040:13 January
956:Impact Day
947:Nesscliffe
945:(E10 7a),
930:Nightmayer
921:Tim Emmett
795:Rainshadow
715:Adam Ondra
700:North Star
691:Adam Ondra
680:Overshadow
664:Rainshadow
639:Alex Megos
635:Adam Ondra
603:Alex Megos
550:Adam Ondra
546:Alex Megos
519:Impact Day
515:Nightmayer
483:onsighting
414:Overshadow
231:Rainshadow
225:Overshadow
60:1970-07-25
977:Pavey Ark
960:Pavey Ark
958:(E8 6c).
932:(E8 6c).
900:Choronzon
885:(E7 6b),
870:Llanberis
829:Hard Grit
765:Bat Route
599:Will Bosi
595:Raven Tor
575:Raven Tor
568:Evolution
386:Evolution
357:redpoints
204:Known for
82:Education
2162:Climbing
2079:Climbing
1705:Climbing
1207:Climbing
1114:, Wales.
1074:See also
887:Tremadog
844:Rhapsody
788:Raindogs
745:Ben Moon
588:Mutation
511:Rodellar
443:Rhapsody
390:Mutation
372:Ben Moon
272:Rhapsody
251:(E10 7a)
243:Mutation
183:On-sight
168:Redpoint
35:Nickname
2332:at the
2051:Climber
1767:Climber
1489:Climber
973:Lexicon
802:Rainman
777:Rainman
707:Kilnsey
655:Kilnsey
641:(2016).
631:Kilnsey
507:Amistad
475:Meshuga
452:Lexicon
418:Rainman
329:onsight
313:Rainman
282:Retired
266:Rainman
219:Rainman
185::
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115:Website
48:British
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2105:Climbr
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177:E11 7a
107:Weight
99:Height
90:Redcar
1411:1998.
1091:Notes
832:and
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227:(9a+)
192:E8 6c
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