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in the construction of the lapel, as the
Victorians used elaborate three-part patterns to cut a fold of cloth from the lining into the front of the lapel, a universal consideration of frock coats and dress coats of the period, but abandoned in favor of the current single-piece lapels at the same time
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The width of the lapel is a widely varying aspect of suits, and has changed widely over the years. Some designers maintain however that most stylish lapel width does not change, and that the lapel "should extend to just a fraction less than the halfway mark between the collar and shoulder line".
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The most common style of lapel, the notched lapel, originated in older types of jackets that buttoned to the neck, by unbuttoning and turning back the upper part of the closure at an angle indoors or in hot weather, and then removing the upper buttons. The upper points are derived from the end
238:, and also commonly with a tuxedo (both single and double breasted). In the late 1920s and 1930s, the single breasted peaked lapel jacket was considered a very stylish design. The feature was carried into day clothing by the increasing popularity of the peaked
277:, it is now most common on the dinner jacket or tuxedo. This similarly began as informal eveningwear, and was then made in both more and less formal versions, depending on the situation in which it was to be used. It is also commonly used on
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have ridiculed the evolution of jacket lapels into "vastly unnecessary flaps" and "decorative rudiments", while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into "fetishes" as part and parcel of fashion as expression.
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was succeeded by long lapels folded down to below the waist (fashionably tightly nipped in). Invariably, there were long rows of buttons down the front, most of which did not fasten; in fact even into the late
423:. Sometimes when caught outside in bad weather in a lapelled jacket and nothing over it, its wearer may unfold the lapels and hold them that way to temporarily reproduce the ancestral to-the-neck closure.
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Once double breasted frock coats were established, lapels were sharply creased and their form was more static, varying only in details such as height, since they were buttoned nearly to the neck by the
302:
The lapel on business and sports wear is typically made of the same fabric as the rest of the jacket. On more formal wear it may be made of a contrasting fabric, with satin a popular historic choice.
439:, all frock coats had a long row of button holes on the lapel, long since obsolete. As buttoning styles changed, the loosely folded front of the coat correspondingly shifted shape, and the
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451:, then lengthened to the classic three-button shape, the two-button jacket being a further American innovation. The other significant change over that period was the use of the
333:, a decorative flower. A loop is often fixed to the back of the lapel to hold the flower properly. For symmetry, double breasted suits often have a buttonhole on each lapel. A
98:
jackets. Usually it is formed by folding over the front edge of the jacket or coat and sewing it to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck.
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then formed by the meeting of the fold and the collar continues now in the traditional shape of notched and peaked lapels, both of which originate from that period.
430:, various styles of closure saw popularity, from fastenings at the top, the middle, or even hanging open. The turn-down collar popular on earlier garments like the
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242:. The ability to cut peak lapels properly on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.
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corners of the collar. This can be duplicated by similarly turning back the closure in a modern button-to-the-neck garment such as an
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194:. The notched lapel double-breasted jacket is a rare setting. The size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is sometimes called
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as the switch to morning coats and lounge suits. Modern lapels are largely identical in form to their 1930s counterparts.
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There are three basic forms of lapel: notched, peaked, and shawl. The notched lapel, the most common, is usually seen on
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Though less common among men's suits in the west, other jacket styles feature no lapels. Jackets with
178:(British English) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. This is the standard on
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492:, also called Prussian collars and ghillie collars, were once common on military uniforms and on the
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jackets, but also frequently appears on single breasted ones. The shawl lapel is usually carried by
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Two flaps of material turned back on the chest, especially a continuation of a coat collar
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in a
Captain's tailcoat (1781), exhibiting a long, loosely-folded lapel with many buttons
691:"Style Q&A: Dressing Up Casual, Wide Vs Skinny Lapels, and Tailored Recommendations"
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677:"Style Heroes: Arnold Wong, Senior Brand Manager and Buyer at Attire House"
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663:"Oliver Brown is the place to go for maximalist tailoring (and top hats)"
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198:. This was the first type of lapel to appear and is the most common one.
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375: in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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Vestirse Por Los Pies: Los
Secretos de Estilo del Auténtico Caballero
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below the collar. It is most commonly found on formal clothing and
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sports a form of notch-less lapel that features an angular turn.
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514:"Casual Dress for Young Men: What to Wear & How to Wear It"
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On single-breasted jackets the left lapel typically carries a
162:(right). The former is the most commonly seen notched lapel.
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As tailcoats evolved rapidly among the wealthy during the
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849:
Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of
Permanent Fashion
816:
Clothes and the Man: The
Principles of Fine Men's Dress
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226:(British English), is the most formal, featuring on
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889:. The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951
789:The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style
480:and various military dress uniforms, such as the
588:"Double Breasted Notch Lapel "Wall Street" Suit"
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270:is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the
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321:, Cooper–Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
391:Learn how and when to remove this message
887:The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier
560:García-Bragado, David (17 March 2014).
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154:Comparison of two notched lapel cuts:
41:A pinstriped suit with a notched lapel
665:. The Jackal Magazine. 26 April 2019.
7:
373:adding citations to reliable sources
230:jackets, all formal coats such as a
105:, and on more casual jackets like
25:
566:. Hércules Edición. p. 181.
459:Some historians of dress such as
182:suits, and is used on nearly all
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787:Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006).
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51:
634:"Single breasted, peaked lapel"
360:needs additional citations for
679:. LIFESTLYE ASIA. 20 May 2019.
1:
315:
1745:Clothing materials and parts
759:Machete, A.J. (2010-10-28).
720:Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07).
632:Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29).
550:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172
117:, and nearly always used on
604:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 48
512:Antonio (31 October 2012).
113:. The peaked lapel is more
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337:is also sometimes worn.
765:The Complete Suit Guide
722:"What's in your lapel?"
1608:Frister & Rossmann
1300:Hook-and-loop fastener
749:Rodofsky(1947). p. 122
613:Flusser (2002). p. 234
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622:Flusser (2002). p. 84
538:Flusser (2002). p. 85
526:Flusser (2002). p. 83
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1688:at Wikimedia Commons
369:improve this article
218:(American English),
170:(American English),
1699:Clothing portal
963:Fabric tube turning
875:Are Clothes Modern?
726:A Suitable Wardrobe
1936:Artificial leather
1751:Garment structures
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314:Lapel watch, USA,
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30:For the town, see
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1778:Detachable collar
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1704:Glossary of terms
1684:Media related to
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1670:
1653:Tape edge machine
1072:Embroidery stitch
885:Whife, A.A (ed):
871:Rudofsky, Bernard
802:978-0-06-089186-2
573:978-8-4927-1579-4
468:Lapelless jackets
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16:(Redirected from
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1447:Tracing paper
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1427:Stitching awl
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879:Paul Theobald
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862:0-06-019144-9
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853:HarperCollins
850:
846:
845:Flusser, Alan
842:
832:
830:0-394-54623-7
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811:Flusser, Alan
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732:on 2008-10-14
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644:on 2005-04-03
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478:Nehru jackets
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437:Victorian era
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364:
363:
358:This section
356:
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328:
312:
305:
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288:
286:
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269:
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261:
254:A shawl lapel
252:
245:
243:
241:
240:dinner jacket
237:
233:
229:
225:
224:pointed lapel
221:
217:
208:
201:
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189:
185:
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177:
173:
169:
168:notched lapel
161:
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104:
99:
97:
93:
89:
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75:
48:
39:
33:
19:
2082:Hook-and-eye
2045:Back closure
1975:Animal hides
1850:Shoulder pad
1804:
1773:Collar stays
1437:Tape measure
1432:Tailor's ham
1417:Sewing gauge
1295:Hook-and-eye
1067:Cross-stitch
1057:Chain stitch
1052:Catch stitch
1042:Blind stitch
886:
874:
848:
834:. Retrieved
815:
788:
781:Bibliography
768:. Retrieved
764:
754:
745:
734:. Retrieved
730:the original
725:
715:
703:
694:
685:
671:
657:
646:. Retrieved
642:the original
637:
627:
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591:
582:
562:
555:
522:
507:
482:British Army
471:
458:
445:
440:
425:
413:
387:
378:
367:Please help
362:verification
359:
324:
301:
292:
279:mess jackets
267:
264:shawl collar
263:
259:
257:
236:morning coat
223:
219:
216:peaked lapel
215:
213:
195:
175:
171:
167:
165:
127:mess jackets
100:
46:
44:
1494:Haberdasher
1412:Seam ripper
1244:Self-fabric
1219:Interfacing
1199:Collar stay
1155:Felled seam
1097:Pick stitch
1062:Coverstitch
638:English Cut
408:Lord Nelson
331:boutonnière
319: 1889
283:Teba jacket
268:roll collar
260:shawl lapel
176:step collar
158:(left) and
111:sport coats
18:Shawl lapel
2152:Categories
2065:Buttonhole
1593:Elias Howe
1554:Simplicity
1489:Dressmaker
1397:Pincushion
1377:Needlecase
1372:Dress form
1331:Grain/bias
1285:Buttonhole
1254:Twill tape
1165:Style line
1092:Pad stitch
1082:Lockstitch
1047:Buttonhole
1027:Backstitch
931:Techniques
836:2008-09-20
770:2011-10-27
736:2008-09-24
648:2008-09-20
449:Edwardians
421:boilersuit
327:buttonhole
306:Buttonhole
220:peak lapel
172:step lapel
2132:Waistline
2050:Belt hook
2037:Fasteners
1951:Polyester
1929:Synthetic
1870:Waistband
1544:Clothkits
1534:Butterick
1504:Silkwoman
1469:Suppliers
1324:Materials
1194:Bias tape
1127:Topstitch
1102:Rantering
1077:Hemstitch
381:June 2012
335:lapel pin
272:Victorian
196:fishmouth
186:jackets,
2127:Bustline
2122:Neckline
2027:Stingray
2002:Kangaroo
1885:Textiles
1633:New Home
1564:Machines
1549:McCall's
1526:Patterns
1407:Scissors
1268:Closures
1249:Soutache
1239:Rickrack
1150:Neckline
1117:Stoating
1087:Overlock
1032:Bar tack
1013:Stitches
1003:Shirring
873:(1947).
847:(2002).
813:(1985).
592:Ask Andy
494:Mao suit
417:overcoat
232:tailcoat
2158:Jackets
2137:Hemline
2007:Ostrich
1979:leather
1961:Spandex
1941:Elastic
1893:Natural
1825:Placket
1758:Armscye
1588:Brother
1583:Bernina
1442:Thimble
1336:Selvage
1259:Wrights
1209:Galloon
1204:Elastic
1178:Notions
1112:Sashiko
1107:Running
1037:Blanket
948:Darning
938:Basting
821:Villard
188:blazers
160:Spanish
156:English
138:Notched
123:tuxedos
107:blazers
2104:Zipper
2092:Velcro
2060:Button
2055:Buckle
1900:Cotton
1860:Sleeve
1845:Ruffle
1840:Revers
1835:Pocket
1820:Lining
1795:Facing
1763:Collar
1686:Sewing
1648:Singer
1643:Sewmor
1628:Merrow
1613:Janome
1603:Feiyue
1509:Tailor
1499:Mercer
1484:Draper
1465:Trades
1367:Bobbin
1346:Thread
1315:Zipper
1280:Button
1275:Buckle
1234:Ruffle
1229:Piping
1132:Zigzag
988:Gusset
973:Gather
924:Sewing
859:
827:
799:
570:
453:revers
341:Origin
298:Fabric
202:Peaked
190:, and
115:formal
88:jacket
2114:Seams
2075:Shank
2022:Snake
2017:Sheep
1956:Rayon
1946:Nylon
1910:Linen
1865:Train
1855:Strap
1830:Pleat
1805:Lapel
1663:White
1638:Pfaff
1618:Jones
1539:Burda
1360:Tools
1305:Shank
1142:Seams
998:Pleat
978:Godet
709:ch. 2
500:Notes
432:frock
419:or a
289:Width
266:, or
246:Shawl
222:, or
133:Types
47:lapel
2099:Snap
2070:Frog
2012:Seal
1997:Goat
1992:Deer
1987:Calf
1920:Wool
1915:Silk
1875:Yoke
1810:Gore
1790:Dart
1785:Cuff
1623:Juki
1598:Elna
1569:list
1351:Yarn
1310:Snap
1290:Frog
1183:Trim
1122:Tack
1018:list
953:Ease
857:ISBN
825:ISBN
797:ISBN
568:ISBN
484:and
281:. A
258:The
214:The
184:suit
166:The
125:and
109:and
96:suit
92:coat
1905:Fur
1815:Hem
1800:Fly
1392:Pin
943:Cut
371:by
234:or
174:or
90:or
82:PEL
80:lə-
2154::
1977:/
877:.
855:.
851:.
823:.
819:.
795:.
791:.
763:.
724:.
693:.
636:.
590:.
543:^
531:^
496:.
488:.
316:c.
262:,
129:.
45:A
1738:e
1731:t
1724:v
1571:)
1567:(
1020:)
1016:(
916:e
909:t
902:v
881:.
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805:.
773:.
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697:.
651:.
576:.
516:.
441:V
394:)
388:(
383:)
379:(
365:.
74:/
71:l
68:ɛ
65:p
62:ˈ
59:ə
56:l
53:/
49:(
34:.
20:)
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