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free climbed the Dawn Wall in 8 days. Ondra praised
Caldwell and Jorgeson saying, "Tommy and Kevin put so much effort into the climb and faced so many question marks and logistical problems that I cannot really compare my effort to theirs. I had it prepared, had all the knowledge. I knew it was
393:
in 2001. Doctors were able to reattach the severed portion, but
Caldwell decided he did not want the useless finger, which doctors said would never heal fully and he would never be able to use to climb with again, and the damaged part of the finger was later permanently removed. After three
394:
surgeries, and two blood transfusion, Caldwell was told by the doctor "You better start thinking about what else you want to do with your life." Facing the fear of never climbing again and losing something he loved so much, became
Caldwell's greatest strength.
356:
in August 2000. Caldwell pushed one of the kidnappers off a cliff, and subsequently escaped to government soldiers. A few weeks later they learned that the man had survived the fall. A book about their ordeal,
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married in 2003, and subsequently divorced in 2010. In 2010 he met photographer
Rebecca Pietsch. They married in 2012. The couple have a son, Fitz, and a daughter, Ingrid Wilde, and live in
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magazine the following year. Caldwell gave a filmed lecture "How
Becoming a Hostage and Losing a Finger Made Him a Better Climber". The Kyrgyzstan incident is included in the 2017 film
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on El
Capitan in Yosemite National Park. In the documentary, Caldwell is seen working with Honnold to prepare for the climb and is interviewed about Honnold and rock climbing.
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Caldwell and three fellow climbers Beth Rodden, John Dickey, and Jason 'Singer' Smith were held hostage for six days by rebels in
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in 2003 at the
Fortress of Solitude, in Colorado, which remained unrepeated for 18 years, before getting its first repeat by
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called
Caldwell "arguably the best all-around rock climber on the planet", and he is an important figure in the
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Over the Edge: The True Story of Four
American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia
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Over the Edge: The True Story of Four
American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia
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604:, was released on September 19, 2018. The documentary was directed by Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer.
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1790:"Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell climb The Nose in under 2 hours to set new El Capitan speed record"
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in Yosemite National Park, after six years of planning and preparation. Their 19-day ascent of
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538: (5.14d) in history. The ascent captured global attention and earned a nod from
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1232:"World's best climber only has nine fingers - the life and times of Tommy Caldwell"
947:"World's best climber only has nine fingers - the life and times of Tommy Caldwell"
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706:(FFA) VI 5.14a with Justen Sjong, May 12–17, 2008, El Capitan, Yosemite, California
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1209:"How rock climber Tommy Caldwell re-learned his craft after sawing off his finger"
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in October 2021, who suggested a possible grade 5.15b (9b), but was regraded to
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882:"Tommy Caldwell, Dominant Force In Big Wall Free, Sport And Alpine Climbing"
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1005:"New Memoir Describes How Tommy Caldwell Was Raised To Climb The Dawn Wall"
1161:"Mountaineering - Back from the Edge - Mountaineering - OutsideOnline.com"
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1435:"Duo Completes First Free Climb of Yosemite's Dawn Wall, Making History"
1332:"Duo Completes First Free Climb of Yosemite's Dawn Wall, Making History"
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The Push: A Climber's Journey of Endurance, Risk and Going Beyond Limits
743:, December 27, 2014 – January 14, 2015, El Capitan, Yosemite, California
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free climbs in 24 hours. On El Capitan, Caldwell has also free-climbed:
1931:
1912:
600:, a documentary following Caldwell and Jorgeson on their free climb of
19:
This article is about the American rock climber. For the musician, see
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Czech free-climber Adam Ondra scales Yosemite rock wall in record time
1179:"How Becoming a Hostage and Losing a Finger Made Him a Better Climber"
1281:"Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor', Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade"
265:
of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the U.S., including
401:
250:. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on
1307:"Climbers complete free-climb ascent of El Capitan's 'Dawn Wall'"
1927:
1859:"Abduction. Lost Finger. Now, a Rock Climber's Tallest Hurdle"
1727:"American Senders Fire Hardest Route on the Diamond | Gripped"
365:. A follow-up article, "Back from the Edge", was published in
344:
where Tommy's love for the park and rock climbing flourished.
723:
5.14a, 1st Free Ascent with Joe Mills, Longs Peak, Colorado
473:, topping out 12 hours later – the first ascent of two
1658:(Autumn 2006). Jackson, Wyoming: Alpinist Magazine: 50–57.
915:"'The Dawn Wall' Is a Great, But Incomplete, Climbing Film"
571:
Caldwell was one of the climbers featured in the 2009 film
92:
461:
in less than 12 hours. A few days later, Caldwell climbed
451:—swapping leads—made the third and fourth free ascents of
443:
In May 2004, he completed the first free ascent (FFA) of
1768:"Free at Last: Caldwell, Jorgeson Top Out the Dawn Wall"
1516:(Spring 2007). Jackson, Wyoming: Alpinist Magazine: 40.
1837:"Summiting Yosemite's Dawn Wall, Climbers Make History"
1029:"Father's Day with Some of our Favourite Climbing Dads"
673:(FFA) VI 5.14a, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California
666:(FFA) VI 5.13c, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California
457:. Two days later, on October 16, Caldwell free-climbed
730:
VI 5.11d C1 65 degrees, First Ascent with Alex Honnold
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VI 5.14a/b, 3rd/4th Free Ascent (with Beth Rodden),
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1646:Caldwell, Tommy; Topher Donahue (September 2006).
385:Caldwell accidentally sawed off much of his left
328:. His father is Mike Caldwell, a former teacher,
1878:"A Tour of Rock Climber Tommy Caldwell's Garage"
1410:"Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview"
1705:"Caldwell, Honnold: Yosemite Free Triple Crown"
534:free climb of a big wall route at the grade of
8:
1504:Caldwell, Tommy; Roger Briggs (March 2007).
1471:, 14 September 2018 – via www.imdb.com
875:
873:
871:
30:
1054:"Climbers Recount Kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan"
659:(9a+ 5.15a), Fortress of Solitude, Colorado
285:over 19-days made the first free ascent of
1934:
1920:
1745:"Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse"
1253:"The Day I Sent the Salathe Wall in a Day"
1085:"When Rock Climbing and Terrorism Collide"
348:Taken hostage in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan
38:
29:
1274:
1272:
841:List of grade milestones in rock climbing
812:The Push: A Climber's Search for the Path
913:Carpenter, Hayden (September 18, 2018).
699:. FFA with Topher Donahue and Erik Roed.
176:First to free climb a big wall route at
1363:"Obama congratulates Yosemite climbers"
867:
621:released on September 28, 2018, about
575:The film discussed his quest to climb
234:(born August 11, 1978) is an American
1623:. Action Sports Group. Archived from
1433:Bisharat, Andrew (January 14, 2015).
614:Caldwell appeared in the documentary
420:of some of the United States hardest
7:
1876:Kurutz, Steven (December 28, 2018).
1813:Cordes, Kelly (September 10, 2010).
1677:Beckwith, Christian (May 20, 2008).
1563:"YOSEMITE VALLEY – Various Activity"
1279:Potter, Stephen (November 9, 2022).
940:
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1305:Gartland, Dan (January 14, 2014).
1211:. Sports Illustrated. May 16, 2017
516:completed the first free climb of
14:
551:The following year Czech climber
1967:People from Estes Park, Colorado
1747:. Climbing.com. 18 February 2014
1679:"More Details on Magic Mushroom"
1230:Allen, Nick (January 11, 2015).
945:Allen, Nick (January 11, 2015).
752:5.9 C2, Sub- 2-hour record with
713:5.13a, 1st All Free Ascent with
1617:"Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose"
978:Achey, Jeff (11 October 2011).
652:. FA with Beth Rodden belaying.
1590:"Caldwell Frees Dihedral Wall"
1251:Caldwell, Tommy (2014-04-30).
1083:Child, Greg (March 17, 2015).
1060:. May 28, 2003. Archived from
880:Clarke, Owen (17 March 2022).
512:In January 2015, Caldwell and
1:
760:, Yosemite Valley, California
684:, Yosemite Valley, California
291:on El Capitan, which was the
1535:Kemple, Tim (15 June 2012).
1183:video.nationalgeographic.com
1109:Child, Greg (1 June 2003).
465:in 11 hours, descended the
25:Tommy Caldwell (footballer)
1988:
691:VI 5.11b A3 90 degrees M7
588:
299: (5.14d) in history.
23:. For the footballer, see
18:
980:"Legends: Tommy Caldwell"
330:professional body builder
225:
101:
83:Professional rock climber
37:
21:Tommy Caldwell (musician)
836:History of rock climbing
810:Caldwell, Tommy (2018).
787:Caldwell, Tommy (2017).
316:Early life and education
273: (9a) in 1999, and
1506:"The Honeymoon is Over"
1391:August 2, 2017, at the
625:'s free solo ascent of
295:big wall free climb at
238:who has set records in
188:Speed record holder on
1957:American rock climbers
1561:Wright, Cedar (2004).
540:President Barack Obama
413:
342:Yosemite National Park
256:Yosemite National Park
1596:. Action Sports Group
1009:Colorado Public Radio
711:Yosemite Triple Crown
642:The Honeymoon is Over
405:
16:American rock climber
1847:on January 15, 2015.
1615:MacDonald, Dougald.
1588:MacDonald, Dougald.
1537:"Crag of the Future"
1135:Child, Greg (2002).
1111:"Back from the Edge"
775:Estes Park, Colorado
320:Caldwell grew up in
310:history of the sport
244:traditional climbing
118:Traditional climbing
72:Estes Park, Colorado
50:Personal information
1972:Piolet d'Or winners
1841:National Geographic
1817:. The Cleanest Line
1627:on November 3, 2006
1447:on January 15, 2015
1440:National Geographic
1397:The Daily Telegraph
1342:on January 15, 2015
1336:National Geographic
1189:on October 20, 2017
1064:on November 1, 2020
1058:National Geographic
1003:Estabrook, Rachel.
469:, and then climbed
305:National Geographic
180: (5.14d) with
34:
1882:The New York Times
1863:The New York Times
1794:PlanetMountain.com
1766:Chris Van Leuven.
1487:, 13 December 2018
1414:PlanetMountain.com
1330:Bisharat, Andrew.
1311:Sports Illustrated
447:. In 2005, he and
414:
1865:. August 1, 2015.
1835:Andrew Bisharat.
1733:. 23 August 2013.
1683:Alpinist Magazine
1648:"Scattered Ashes"
1621:Climbing Magazine
1594:Climbing Magazine
1567:Alpinist Magazine
1541:Climbing Magazine
984:Climbing Magazine
814:. Penguin Books.
739:(FFA) 5.14d with
689:Linea di Eleganza
438:Jonathan Siegrist
436: (5.15a) by
248:big-wall climbing
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499:Magic Mushroom
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1451:January 14,
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1094:February 8,
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771:Beth Rodden
657:Flex Luthor
566:Progression
556:possible".
467:East Ledges
449:Beth Rodden
426:Flex Luthor
275:Flex Luthor
210:(2003, 9a+)
208:Flex Luthor
150: (9a+)
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1895:2019-03-15
1821:2012-07-31
1799:2018-08-12
1689:August 18,
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682:El Capitan
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532:first-ever
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424:including
407:El Capitan
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354:Kyrgyzstan
293:first-ever
267:Kryptonite
252:El Capitan
218:(9a, 2015)
162: (8B)
156:Bouldering
80:Occupation
61:1978-08-11
1890:0362-4331
1664:1540-725X
1522:1540-725X
1484:Free Solo
1367:USA TODAY
1120:7 October
959:0307-1235
862:Footnotes
697:Patagonia
628:Freerider
617:Free Solo
609:Free Solo
483:Muir Wall
471:Freerider
440:in 2022.
391:table saw
302:In 2015,
246:, and in
170:Known for
1711:July 31,
1652:Alpinist
1631:March 2,
1600:March 2,
1573:March 2,
1510:Alpinist
1389:Archived
1285:Climbing
887:Climbing
830:See also
749:The Nose
693:Fitz Roy
678:The Nose
650:Colorado
530:was the
507:New Dawn
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326:Colorado
322:Loveland
191:The Nose
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1932:Twitter
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1215:May 21,
1115:Outside
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491:Salathé
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