487:
191:
628:
elevation for a BASE jump on record. On 10 August 2013, Andrey
Lebedev and Vladimir Murzaev performed a base jump from the same location as Feteris and Singleman on a low budget and with little fanfare. In 2023 Eric Jamet and Antoine Pecher repeated Australians Feteris & Singleman's jump. Then the pair went onto climb the Eternal Flame route Nameless Tower in Pakistan (6,200 metres or 20,300 feet), which they also BASE jumped. They submitted a 26 minute film to the Banff film festival that has been part of the 2023 & 2024 roadshow.
198:
161:
154:
40:
423:
611:, Gunnar Karlsen, Per L. Skjerven, and Einar Wold) over a total of 38 days on the wall. The team reported of difficulties up to A4/5.11. Another route over Trango Pulpit is More Czech Less Slovak route VII 7-UIAA A2 (Southeast Ridge). It was climbed by a 1999 Czechoslovak team (Ivo Wondracek, Tomas Rinn, Pavel Weisser, Jaro Dutka, and Michal Drasar).
698:, Bjarte Bø, Sigurd Felde, and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, spending 27 days in the wall to reach the summit and three more days for the descent. This is reportedly the first repetition of the route, and thus also the first successful ascent and return. Rolf Bae died later that summer. He was one of 11 climbers who were killed in the
388:." To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however, the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, though they share the Trango name.
555:
song), first climbed on 20 September 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Milan Sykora, and
Christoph Stiegler. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower and was climbed almost entirely free. These climbs inaugurated an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude
627:
from an elevation of 5,955 metres (19,537 feet) from the
Northeast Face (on the other side of the Norwegian Pillar from the 1,340-metre (4,400 ft) East Face wall), landing on the northern side of the Dunge Glacier at an altitude of 4,200 metres (13,800 feet). This was the highest starting
373:, with three distinct summits: Main (6,286 m (20,623 ft)), East (6,231 m (20,443 ft)), and West (6,223 m (20,417 ft)). It is a complex combination of steep snow/ice gullies, steeper rock faces, and vertical to overhanging headwalls, topped by a snowy ridge system.
602:
climbed a long, bold, highly technical line that they called "Parallel Worlds." They reported difficulties up to 5.11 and A4. The
Russian team of Igor Potan'kin, Alexandr Odintsov, Ivan Samoilenko, and Yuri Koshelenko climbed an equally proud route (Eclissi) and encountered similar technical
517:
After several unsuccessful attempts, the second and third ascents were achieved in 1987, with the opening of two new routes: The
Slovenian Route, better known as the Yugoslav Route, a pure, clean, logical crack route on the south-southeast face, by Slavko Cankar,
652:
Some more recent ascents on Great Trango have focused on the longer routes found on the west and south sides. In particular, in 2004 Josh
Wharton and Kelly Cordes completed a new, very long (2,256 metres or 7,402 feet) route on the Southwest Ridge, or
474:, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340 m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world."
951:
452:
1984 Northwest Face. Another long alpine route on Great Trango is on the
Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is a long technical alpine climb with extensive rock and ice
449:, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey, and Dennis Hennek by a route that started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.
533:, and the Great Overhanging Dihedral Route, a spectacular and technical ascent on the western pillar, by Swiss/French team Michel "Tchouky" Fauquet, Patrick Delale, Michel Piola and Stephane Schaffter.
943:
594:
In 1999, the West Summit of Great Trango and the Trango Pulpit saw their first ascent. Two teams, one
American and one Russian, nearly simultaneously, by parallel routes. The American team of
657:, to the Southwest Summit. Though not as extremely technical as the East Face routes, the climb was notable for the extremely lightweight and fast (5 days) style in which it was done.
384:". This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1,000 m (3,300 ft) out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as "
369:
All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, running northwest to southeast, with Trango
Glacier to the west and the Dunge Glacier to the east. Great Trango itself is a large
419:
ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All of the routes are highly technical climbs.
190:
1032:
1064:
896:
470:
1992 The Grand Voyage (VII 5.10 A4+ WI3), duration 18 days. The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver
Bongard and
675:
In the same month, Samuel Johnson, Jonathon Clearwater, and Jeremy Frimer made the first ascent of the southwest ridge of Trango II, which they termed
1204:
841:
1097:
1199:
403:(6,050 m (19,850 ft)), whose walls present similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself. Further, to the south is
44:
Their vertical faces are the world's tallest cliffs. Trango Tower center; Trango Monk center left; Trango II far left; Great Trango right.
1194:
536:
The first route that was freed (using fixed lines to return to a base each night), in 1988, was the Yugoslav Route by the German team
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153:
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During May/June 2008, the Norwegian route on the east face of Great Trango (1984) was repeated by the four Norwegian climbers
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668:, to the right of the Wharton/Cordes line on the south face of Great Trango. The climb comprised around 90 pitches, up to
921:
768:
486:
75:
1189:
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463:
1984 East Face. The east face of the Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians
1056:
893:
747:
353:, which is a sub-range within the Karakoram mountain range. The highest point within the group is the summit of
713:
managed to make an all free ascent of "Eternal Flame" on Nameless Tower, with climbing up to French grade 7c+.
1087:
684:
669:
838:
637:
255:
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award in 1999. The northeast face on the Pulpit was climbed by a Norwegian team ("Norwegian Direct",
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407:(5,753 m (18,875 ft)), the last large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier.
392:(6,237 m (20,463 ft)) lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge,
519:
944:"Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison"
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1999 Parallel Worlds (VII 5.11 A4). Alex Lowe, Mark Synnott, Jared Ogden, duration 28 days
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opportunities. Each year, climbers from around the world embark on expeditions to the
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Overall, the Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant
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climbers, Gabo Cmarik and Jozef Kopold, climbed a new route, which they termed
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357:
at 6,286 m (20,623 ft), the east face of which features the world's
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39:
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399:
Just southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge) is the
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84:
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17:
914:"Eternal Flame Trailer - Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival AU Tour 2024"
1139:
Article about the 2008 expedition from D2 / Dagens Næringsliv (Norwegian)
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Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the British climber
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422:
672:. They used a lightweight style similar to that of Wharton and Cordes.
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260:
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330:
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1057:"Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers"
894:
Trango Towers, the BASE jump by Andrey Lebedev and Vladimir Murzaev
485:
421:
679:. The route involved 1,600 m of climbing over five days, with
578:
In the summer of 2009, Franz Hinterbrandner, Mario Walder and
559:
The first female ascent, on 6 September 1990, was achieved in
396:(6,363 m (20,876 ft)), lies northwest of Trango II.
987:"Great Trango Tower, Hainabrakk East Tower and Shipton Spire"
603:
challenges. Both climbs were nominated for the prestigious
441:
1977 South Face. Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by
514:. There are at least eight separate routes to the summit.
345:
faces. The Trango Towers are situated to the north of the
769:"Pakistani Rock Climbers Can Also Climb Trango Towers"
1131:Pakistan's First Big Wall Climbing Expedition 2013
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173:Location of the Trango Towers within the greater
619:On 26 August 1992, Australians Nic Feteris and
380:(6,239 m (20,469 ft)), often called "
281:, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek
806:(52). New York: American Alpine Club: 436–446.
329:. The Towers have some of the world's largest
798:Hennek, Dennis (1978). "Great Trango Tower".
467:and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.
8:
586:did the first free ascent of Eternal Flame.
313:
124:
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29:
1033:"Norwegians repeat historic Trango route"
880:Catherine Destivelle and Gérard Kosicki,
644:of Great Trango Tower via the west face.
839:Great Trango Tower: The Biggest Big Wall
833:
831:
759:
563:style, again on the Yugoslav Route, by
333:and offer some of the most challenging
27:Granite spires in mountains in Pakistan
1067:from the original on 11 September 2015
376:Just northwest of Great Trango is the
1020:from the original on 18 October 2021.
997:from the original on 18 October 2021.
870:from the original on 17 October 2021.
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7:
1100:from the original on 23 October 2013
825:, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, p. 43.
821:Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables,
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293:Northwest face: snow/ice/rock climb
1159:Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face
70:Approx. 800 m (2,600 ft)
25:
954:from the original on 13 July 2024
924:from the original on 21 June 2024
687:and ice and mixed climbing up to
1205:Mountain ranges of the Karakoram
1086:Lambert, Erik (1 October 2009).
985:Linek, Vladimir (1 March 2006).
660:Over 7 days in August 2005, two
640:and Jim Morrison made the first
636:On 9 May 2024, Chantel Astorga,
325:region, in the northern part of
210:Trango Towers (Gilgit Baltistan)
196:
189:
159:
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38:
1088:"Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame"
1008:Frimer, Jeremy (1 March 2006).
623:climbed Great Trango and then
1:
1200:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan
1167:Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame
743:List of mountains in Pakistan
490:Trango Tower, as seen from a
359:greatest nearly vertical drop
60:6,286 m (20,623 ft)
1010:"Trango II, Severance Ridge"
213:Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
858:Child, Greg (1 July 2005).
544:, and Hartmut Münchenbach.
1221:
1195:Climbing areas of Pakistan
1123:Pakistan Alpine Institute
748:List of highest mountains
547:Another notable route is
297:
145:
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973:American Alpine Journal
800:American Alpine Journal
786:American Alpine Journal
482:Trango (Nameless) Tower
884:, Denoël, 1991, p. 52.
638:Christina Lustenberger
495:
427:
365:Structure of the group
341:region to climb these
823:Himalaya Alpine Style
489:
465:Hans Christian Doseth
425:
180:Show map of Karakoram
98:35.75722°N 76.20139°E
1031:MacDonald, Dougald.
705:In mid-August 2009,
565:Catherine Destivelle
458:East face and summit
349:and are part of the
1151:Trango Towers Group
598:, Jared Ogden, and
94: /
1190:Cliffs of Pakistan
1063:. 1 October 2009.
1045:on 28 August 2008.
948:PlanetMountain.com
903:planetmountain.com
899:2014-09-11 at the
844:2022-02-16 at the
788:, 2000, pp. 86–114
496:
428:
426:Great Trango Tower
355:Great Trango Tower
317:) are a family of
103:35.75722; 76.20139
50:Highest point
920:. 13 March 2024.
738:Hainablak Glacier
335:big wall climbing
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16:(Redirected from
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1162:Vladimir Mogila
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767:Junaidi, Imran.
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700:2008 K2 disaster
609:Robert Caspersen
573:David Breashears
542:Wolfgang Güllich
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411:Climbing history
323:Gilgit-Baltistan
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666:Assalam Alaikum
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621:Glenn Singleman
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551:(named after a
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512:Malcolm Howells
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472:John Middendorf
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417:big wall climbs
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351:Baltoro Muztagh
347:Baltoro Glacier
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848:18 August 2016
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561:free climbing
557:
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549:Eternal Flame
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508:Martin Boysen
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288:Easiest route
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33:Trango Towers
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1102:. Retrieved
1091:
1081:
1069:. Retrieved
1060:
1051:
1043:the original
1036:
1026:
1014:alpinist.com
1013:
1003:
991:alpinist.com
990:
980:
972:
968:
956:. Retrieved
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926:. Retrieved
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864:alpinist.com
863:
853:
837:James Lucas
822:
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799:
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773:the original
762:
711:Thomas Huber
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618:
600:Mark Synnott
593:
584:Thomas Huber
577:
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443:Galen Rowell
431:Great Trango
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378:Trango Tower
377:
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368:
354:
314:ٹرینگو ٹاورز
304:
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279:Galen Rowell
273:First ascent
237:Parent range
125:ٹرینگو ٹاورز
18:Trango Tower
882:Rocs Nature
728:Cerro Torre
655:Azeem Ridge
642:ski descent
632:Ski Descent
625:BASE jumped
605:Piolet d'Or
538:Kurt Albert
523: [
504:Mo Anthoine
436:Main summit
386:Trango Monk
319:rock towers
245:, Karakoram
119:Native name
101: /
76:Coordinates
1179:Categories
1126:Anne Arran
754:References
723:Mount Thor
575:filming).
531:Bojan Šrot
520:Franc Knez
230:, Pakistan
86:35°45′26″N
66:Prominence
1185:Baltistan
707:Alexander
615:BASE jump
596:Alex Lowe
580:Alexander
569:Jeff Lowe
500:Joe Brown
494:satellite
453:climbing.
394:Trango Ri
390:Trango II
339:Karakoram
228:Baltistan
175:Karakoram
141:Geography
89:76°12′5″E
56:Elevation
1098:Archived
1093:Alpinist
1065:Archived
1038:Climbing
1018:Archived
995:Archived
952:Archived
922:Archived
897:Archived
868:Archived
842:Archived
717:See also
696:Rolf Bae
670:5.11d A2
327:Pakistan
277:1977 by
267:Climbing
224:Location
975:, 2005.
958:13 July
928:21 June
918:YouTube
685:5.11 A2
556:peaks.
553:Bangles
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261:Granite
250:Geology
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1071:2 July
689:AI3 M5
683:up to
662:Slovak
582:, and
571:, and
567:(with
510:, and
492:SkySat
371:massif
331:cliffs
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1106:2013
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960:2024
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529:and
309:Urdu
303:The
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