476:
180:
617:
elevation for a BASE jump on record. On 10 August 2013, Andrey
Lebedev and Vladimir Murzaev performed a base jump from the same location as Feteris and Singleman on a low budget and with little fanfare. In 2023 Eric Jamet and Antoine Pecher repeated Australians Feteris & Singleman's jump. Then the pair went onto climb the Eternal Flame route Nameless Tower in Pakistan (6,200 metres or 20,300 feet), which they also BASE jumped. They submitted a 26 minute film to the Banff film festival that has been part of the 2023 & 2024 roadshow.
187:
150:
143:
29:
412:
600:, Gunnar Karlsen, Per L. Skjerven, and Einar Wold) over a total of 38 days on the wall. The team reported of difficulties up to A4/5.11. Another route over Trango Pulpit is More Czech Less Slovak route VII 7-UIAA A2 (Southeast Ridge). It was climbed by a 1999 Czechoslovak team (Ivo Wondracek, Tomas Rinn, Pavel Weisser, Jaro Dutka, and Michal Drasar).
687:, Bjarte Bø, Sigurd Felde, and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, spending 27 days in the wall to reach the summit and three more days for the descent. This is reportedly the first repetition of the route, and thus also the first successful ascent and return. Rolf Bae died later that summer. He was one of 11 climbers who were killed in the
377:." To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however, the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, though they share the Trango name.
544:
song), first climbed on 20 September 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Milan Sykora, and
Christoph Stiegler. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower and was climbed almost entirely free. These climbs inaugurated an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude
616:
from an elevation of 5,955 metres (19,537 feet) from the
Northeast Face (on the other side of the Norwegian Pillar from the 1,340-metre (4,400 ft) East Face wall), landing on the northern side of the Dunge Glacier at an altitude of 4,200 metres (13,800 feet). This was the highest starting
362:, with three distinct summits: Main (6,286 m (20,623 ft)), East (6,231 m (20,443 ft)), and West (6,223 m (20,417 ft)). It is a complex combination of steep snow/ice gullies, steeper rock faces, and vertical to overhanging headwalls, topped by a snowy ridge system.
591:
climbed a long, bold, highly technical line that they called "Parallel Worlds." They reported difficulties up to 5.11 and A4. The
Russian team of Igor Potan'kin, Alexandr Odintsov, Ivan Samoilenko, and Yuri Koshelenko climbed an equally proud route (Eclissi) and encountered similar technical
506:
After several unsuccessful attempts, the second and third ascents were achieved in 1987, with the opening of two new routes: The
Slovenian Route, better known as the Yugoslav Route, a pure, clean, logical crack route on the south-southeast face, by Slavko Cankar,
641:
Some more recent ascents on Great Trango have focused on the longer routes found on the west and south sides. In particular, in 2004 Josh
Wharton and Kelly Cordes completed a new, very long (2,256 metres or 7,402 feet) route on the Southwest Ridge, or
463:, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340 m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world."
940:
441:
1984 Northwest Face. Another long alpine route on Great Trango is on the
Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is a long technical alpine climb with extensive rock and ice
438:, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey, and Dennis Hennek by a route that started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.
522:, and the Great Overhanging Dihedral Route, a spectacular and technical ascent on the western pillar, by Swiss/French team Michel "Tchouky" Fauquet, Patrick Delale, Michel Piola and Stephane Schaffter.
932:
583:
In 1999, the West Summit of Great Trango and the Trango Pulpit saw their first ascent. Two teams, one
American and one Russian, nearly simultaneously, by parallel routes. The American team of
646:, to the Southwest Summit. Though not as extremely technical as the East Face routes, the climb was notable for the extremely lightweight and fast (5 days) style in which it was done.
373:". This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1,000 m (3,300 ft) out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as "
358:
All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, running northwest to southeast, with Trango
Glacier to the west and the Dunge Glacier to the east. Great Trango itself is a large
408:
ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All of the routes are highly technical climbs.
179:
1021:
1053:
885:
459:
1992 The Grand Voyage (VII 5.10 A4+ WI3), duration 18 days. The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver
Bongard and
664:
In the same month, Samuel Johnson, Jonathon Clearwater, and Jeremy Frimer made the first ascent of the southwest ridge of Trango II, which they termed
1193:
830:
1086:
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392:(6,050 m (19,850 ft)), whose walls present similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself. Further, to the south is
33:
Their vertical faces are the world's tallest cliffs. Trango Tower center; Trango Monk center left; Trango II far left; Great Trango right.
1183:
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The first route that was freed (using fixed lines to return to a base each night), in 1988, was the Yugoslav Route by the German team
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142:
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During May/June 2008, the Norwegian route on the east face of Great Trango (1984) was repeated by the four Norwegian climbers
731:
657:, to the right of the Wharton/Cordes line on the south face of Great Trango. The climb comprised around 90 pitches, up to
910:
757:
475:
64:
1178:
1031:
452:
1984 East Face. The east face of the Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians
1045:
882:
736:
342:, which is a sub-range within the Karakoram mountain range. The highest point within the group is the summit of
702:
managed to make an all free ascent of "Eternal Flame" on Nameless Tower, with climbing up to French grade 7c+.
1076:
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award in 1999. The northeast face on the Pulpit was climbed by a Norwegian team ("Norwegian Direct",
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1026:
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630:
396:(5,753 m (18,875 ft)), the last large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier.
381:(6,237 m (20,463 ft)) lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge,
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933:"Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison"
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1999 Parallel Worlds (VII 5.11 A4). Alex Lowe, Mark Synnott, Jared Ogden, duration 28 days
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opportunities. Each year, climbers from around the world embark on expeditions to the
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Overall, the Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant
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climbers, Gabo Cmarik and Jozef Kopold, climbed a new route, which they termed
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at 6,286 m (20,623 ft), the east face of which features the world's
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28:
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Just southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge) is the
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903:"Eternal Flame Trailer - Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival AU Tour 2024"
1128:
Article about the 2008 expedition from D2 / Dagens Næringsliv (Norwegian)
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Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the British climber
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661:. They used a lightweight style similar to that of Wharton and Cordes.
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249:
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1046:"Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers"
883:
Trango Towers, the BASE jump by Andrey Lebedev and Vladimir Murzaev
474:
410:
668:. The route involved 1,600 m of climbing over five days, with
567:
In the summer of 2009, Franz Hinterbrandner, Mario Walder and
548:
The first female ascent, on 6 September 1990, was achieved in
385:(6,363 m (20,876 ft)), lies northwest of Trango II.
976:"Great Trango Tower, Hainabrakk East Tower and Shipton Spire"
592:
challenges. Both climbs were nominated for the prestigious
430:
1977 South Face. Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by
503:. There are at least eight separate routes to the summit.
334:
faces. The Trango Towers are situated to the north of the
758:"Pakistani Rock Climbers Can Also Climb Trango Towers"
1120:Pakistan's First Big Wall Climbing Expedition 2013
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162:Location of the Trango Towers within the greater
608:On 26 August 1992, Australians Nic Feteris and
369:(6,239 m (20,469 ft)), often called "
270:, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek
795:(52). New York: American Alpine Club: 436–446.
318:. The Towers have some of the world's largest
787:Hennek, Dennis (1978). "Great Trango Tower".
456:and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.
8:
575:did the first free ascent of Eternal Flame.
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113:
111:
18:
1022:"Norwegians repeat historic Trango route"
869:Catherine Destivelle and Gérard Kosicki,
633:of Great Trango Tower via the west face.
828:Great Trango Tower: The Biggest Big Wall
822:
820:
748:
552:style, again on the Yugoslav Route, by
322:and offer some of the most challenging
16:Granite spires in mountains in Pakistan
1056:from the original on 11 September 2015
365:Just northwest of Great Trango is the
1009:from the original on 18 October 2021.
986:from the original on 18 October 2021.
859:from the original on 17 October 2021.
186:
149:
7:
1089:from the original on 23 October 2013
814:, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, p. 43.
810:Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables,
301:
282:Northwest face: snow/ice/rock climb
1148:Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face
59:Approx. 800 m (2,600 ft)
14:
943:from the original on 13 July 2024
913:from the original on 21 June 2024
676:and ice and mixed climbing up to
1194:Mountain ranges of the Karakoram
1075:Lambert, Erik (1 October 2009).
974:Linek, Vladimir (1 March 2006).
649:Over 7 days in August 2005, two
629:and Jim Morrison made the first
625:On 9 May 2024, Chantel Astorga,
314:region, in the northern part of
199:Trango Towers (Gilgit Baltistan)
185:
178:
148:
141:
27:
1077:"Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame"
997:Frimer, Jeremy (1 March 2006).
612:climbed Great Trango and then
1:
1189:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan
1156:Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame
732:List of mountains in Pakistan
479:Trango Tower, as seen from a
348:greatest nearly vertical drop
49:6,286 m (20,623 ft)
999:"Trango II, Severance Ridge"
202:Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
847:Child, Greg (1 July 2005).
533:, and Hartmut Münchenbach.
1210:
1184:Climbing areas of Pakistan
1112:Pakistan Alpine Institute
737:List of highest mountains
536:Another notable route is
286:
134:
112:
26:
962:American Alpine Journal
789:American Alpine Journal
775:American Alpine Journal
471:Trango (Nameless) Tower
873:, Denoël, 1991, p. 52.
627:Christina Lustenberger
484:
416:
354:Structure of the group
330:region to climb these
812:Himalaya Alpine Style
478:
454:Hans Christian Doseth
414:
169:Show map of Karakoram
87:35.75722°N 76.20139°E
1020:MacDonald, Dougald.
694:In mid-August 2009,
554:Catherine Destivelle
447:East face and summit
338:and are part of the
1140:Trango Towers Group
587:, Jared Ogden, and
83: /
1179:Cliffs of Pakistan
1052:. 1 October 2009.
1034:on 28 August 2008.
937:PlanetMountain.com
892:planetmountain.com
888:2014-09-11 at the
833:2022-02-16 at the
777:, 2000, pp. 86–114
485:
417:
415:Great Trango Tower
344:Great Trango Tower
306:) are a family of
92:35.75722; 76.20139
39:Highest point
909:. 13 March 2024.
727:Hainablak Glacier
324:big wall climbing
290:
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1151:Vladimir Mogila
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756:Junaidi, Imran.
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689:2008 K2 disaster
598:Robert Caspersen
562:David Breashears
531:Wolfgang Güllich
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400:Climbing history
312:Gilgit-Baltistan
310:situated in the
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764:on 9 July 2015.
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666:Severance Ridge
655:Assalam Alaikum
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610:Glenn Singleman
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540:(named after a
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501:Malcolm Howells
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461:John Middendorf
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406:big wall climbs
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340:Baltoro Muztagh
336:Baltoro Glacier
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1050:PlanetMountain
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837:18 August 2016
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579:Other summits
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550:free climbing
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538:Eternal Flame
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497:Martin Boysen
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491:, along with
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277:Easiest route
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245:Mountain type
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1091:. Retrieved
1080:
1070:
1058:. Retrieved
1049:
1040:
1032:the original
1025:
1015:
1003:alpinist.com
1002:
992:
980:alpinist.com
979:
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945:. Retrieved
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915:. Retrieved
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870:
865:
853:alpinist.com
852:
842:
826:James Lucas
811:
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770:
762:the original
751:
700:Thomas Huber
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589:Mark Synnott
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573:Thomas Huber
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432:Galen Rowell
420:Great Trango
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367:Trango Tower
366:
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343:
303:ٹرینگو ٹاورز
293:
291:
268:Galen Rowell
262:First ascent
226:Parent range
114:ٹرینگو ٹاورز
871:Rocs Nature
717:Cerro Torre
644:Azeem Ridge
631:ski descent
621:Ski Descent
614:BASE jumped
594:Piolet d'Or
527:Kurt Albert
512: [
493:Mo Anthoine
425:Main summit
375:Trango Monk
308:rock towers
234:, Karakoram
108:Native name
90: /
65:Coordinates
1168:Categories
1115:Anne Arran
743:References
712:Mount Thor
564:filming).
520:Bojan Šrot
509:Franc Knez
219:, Pakistan
75:35°45′26″N
55:Prominence
1174:Baltistan
696:Alexander
604:BASE jump
585:Alex Lowe
569:Alexander
558:Jeff Lowe
489:Joe Brown
483:satellite
442:climbing.
383:Trango Ri
379:Trango II
328:Karakoram
217:Baltistan
164:Karakoram
130:Geography
78:76°12′5″E
45:Elevation
1087:Archived
1082:Alpinist
1054:Archived
1027:Climbing
1007:Archived
984:Archived
941:Archived
911:Archived
886:Archived
857:Archived
831:Archived
706:See also
685:Rolf Bae
659:5.11d A2
316:Pakistan
266:1977 by
256:Climbing
213:Location
964:, 2005.
947:13 July
917:21 June
907:YouTube
674:5.11 A2
545:peaks.
542:Bangles
332:granite
250:Granite
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