146:, having experience in public speaking and political agitation, demanded sensible clothing that would not restrict their movement. While supporters of fashionable dress contended that corsets maintained an upright, 'good figure', as a necessary physical structure for moral and well-ordered society, these dress reformists contested that women's fashions were not only physically detrimental, but "the results of male conspiracy to make women subservient by cultivating them in slave psychology." They believed a change in fashions could change the whole position of women, allowing for greater social mobility, independence from men and marriage, the ability to work for wages, as well as physical movement and comfort.
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182:
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547:, 'General Association for the Improvement of Women's Clothing', was founded. Its first exhibition took place in April 1897 in Berlin. 35 manufacturers had submitted reform proposals. Since 1899 there was even a permanent exhibition in Berlin with examples of "improved women's clothing". Like their equivalents in Austria, the Netherlands and the Nordic countries, the German dress reform association focused on the reform of women's undergarments as the most realistic goal, mainly on corsets. The German movement managed to affect public opinion to such a degree that one of its leading figures,
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115:: dress reformists claimed that the corset was prompted by vanity and foolishness, and harmful to health. The reported health risks included damaged and rearranged internal organs, compromised fertility; weakness and general depletion of health. Those who were pro-corset argued that it was required for stylish dress and had its own unique pleasures; dress historian David Kunzle theorized that some enthusiastic fans of tightlacing may have experienced sexual pleasure when tightlacing, or by
430:, where two of the main proponents were the writer Oscar Wilde and his wife Constance, both of whom gave lectures on the subject. In 1881 The Rational Dress Society was founded in London. The Society advocated divided skirts as a more practical form of clothing, but its president and co-founder, Lady Florence Harberton, went further - when cycling, she wore full 'Rational' dress, which was a shorter skirt worn over voluminous trousers.
20:
1267:, Wednesday, Aug 20, 1851; pg. 5; Issue 20885; col A: 'DEBUT OF THE "BLOOMER" COSTUME IN BELFAST:...Three ladies... made their appearance in full "Bloomer" costume...Others, and these most numerous, expressed an opinion the reverse of complimentary to the rank and character of the ladies, identifying them with persons whose overdressed gaiety of appearance in public stamps the class to which they belong.'
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76:, which could be modified without exposing the wearer to social ridicule. Dress reformers were also influential in persuading women to adopt simplified garments for athletic activities such as bicycling or swimming. The movement was much less concerned with men's clothing, although it initiated the widespread adoption of knitted wool
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of two women appearing in
Edinburgh in reformed dress)'BLOOMERISM IN EDINBURGH:...The singular spectacle thus presented attracted considerable attention even in the retired quarter of the town where it was witnessed, and comments, characterized by freedom more than politeness, were now and again made
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in the 1880s; they held lectures in many
Finnish cities, managed to have the reform costume accepted as sports wear in the girls' schools of the capital by 1887, and was awarded the grand silver medal for their reform costume for school girls in the exhibition of the Russian Hygienic Society in Saint
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designed the straight-front corset in response to her patients' gynecological issues which were attributed to wearing corsets. The design was intended to reduce pressure on the abdomen and improve overall health. The new S-curve silhouette created by this design quickly caught on among fashion houses
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and a skirt. The entire torso would support the weight of the petticoats and skirt, not just the waist (since the undesirability of hanging the entire weight of full skirts and petticoats from a constricted waist—rather than hanging the garments from the shoulders—was another point often discussed by
226:
published a book claiming that only clothing made of animal hair, such as wool, promoted health. A British accountant named Lewis
Tomalin translated the book, then opened a shop selling Dr Jaeger's Sanitary Woollen System, including knitted wool union suits. These were soon called "Jaegers"; they
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There were no separate dress reform societies founded in France. While the issue was adopted and discussed by several of the existing French women's rights organisations, the issue was not given priority and it was not until the great enthusiasm for bicycling in France in the 1890s that women in
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After an initial attempt to launch a reform costume, the
Swedish dress reform movement focused on a reform of women's underwear, particularly the corset. The Swedish reform dress movement corresponded with their equivalent in Great Britain as well as the American dress reform movement of
313:(Libby Miller) adopted what she considered a more rational costume: loose trousers gathered at the ankles, like the trousers worn by Middle Eastern and Central Asian women, topped by a short dress or skirt and vest (waistcoat). She displayed her new clothing to temperance activist and
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The dress reform movement did achieve some success in Sweden; by the 1890s, corsets were no longer accepted for the pupils of the
Swedish girls' schools, and the leading Swedish fashion designer Augusta Lundin reported that her clients no longer subjected themselves to tight lacing.
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in both Sweden and Norway, held a lecture in Norway in favor of dress reform already in 1886, as a commentary of the
Swedish dress reform movement in which he himself also participated; the Swedish dress reform society successfully exhibited their reform dress in Oslo, the
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skirt suits, ties, and starched blouses. By the 1920s, male-style garments for casual and sporting activities were less socially condemned. New fashions required lighter undergarments, shorter skirts, looser bodices, trousers, and praised slender 'boyish' figures. As
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1255:, October 5, 1851: 'Bloomerism in London:...One journal hints very ill-naturedly that the new dress is best adapted for a particular class of "ladies", who, poor things, having a deal of "street-walking", would find the Bloomer costume quite a blessing..'
71:
and moral purity. Dress reform called for emancipation from the "dictates of fashion", expressed a desire to "cover the limbs as well as the torso adequately," and promoted "rational dress". The movement had its greatest success in the reform of women's
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They put up a fight for a few years, but were subjected to ridicule in the press and harassment on the street. The more conservative of society protested that women had 'lost the mystery and attractiveness as they discarded their flowing robes."
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Source says:"See
Shimoda, "Honbō joshi fukusō no enkaku本邦女子服装の沿革 ," Part I, Onna, 31 January 1901, in Shimoda Utako chosakushū, vol. 1, 1-3; "Joshi no tainin no han'i ni tsukite," Nihon Fujin, 25 April 1900, in Shimoda Utako chosakushū, vol. 4,
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eras. A historic nostalgia for more forgiving fashions, the aesthetic dress movement critiqued fashionable dress for its immovable shapes, and sought the 'fashioning and adorning of a robe' as tastefully complementary to the natural body.
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and said of the pregnancy corset, "The Best pregnancy corset is no corset at all." The "emancipation union under flannel" was first sold in
America in 1868. It combined a waist (shirt) and drawers (leggings) in the form we now know as the
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The primary result of the dress reform movement seems to be the evolution, rather than elimination, of the corset. Because of the public health outcry surrounding corsets and tightlacing, many doctors took it upon themselves to become
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662:(V.v.V.v.V.). The dress reform society held lectures, participated in exhibitions and worked with designed to produce a new fashion for women which could be not only attractive but also comfortable and healthy at the same time.
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345:, was a sufficient reform and that she could return to conventional dress. The bloomer costume died—temporarily. It was to return much later (in a different form), as a women's athletic costume in the 1890s and early 1900s.
438:
The dress reform movement spread from the United States and Great
Britain to the Nordic countries in the 1880s and from Germany to Austria and the Netherlands. The issue was internationally addressed at the
330:. Bloomer not only wore the costume, she promoted it enthusiastically in her magazine. More women wore the fashion and were promptly dubbed "Bloomers". A dress reform was supported by a campaign of the
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to be too restrictive, preventing women and girls from moving and taking part in physical activities, harming their health. While
Western dress was being adopted at the time, she also believed
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The women's movement, however, did not engage in the issue until after the International Women's Congress in Berlin in September 1896. Two weeks later the German dress reform association,
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remarked, in the 1920s "women took off their corsets, reduced their clothing to the minimum tolerated by conventions and wore clothes which wrapped round them rather than fitted."
1524:("Fashion, Emancipation, Reform and the Rational Undergarment" Deborah Jean Waugh 'Dress' Vol 4, 1978: 238 Quote by Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile) from "Discretions and Indiscretions")
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Sweden was a leading nation of the dress reform movement, as the movement came first to Sweden of all the Nordic countries and spread from there to Denmark, Finland and Norway.
197:, as a replacement for the corset. The emancipation bodice was a tight sleeveless vest, buttoning up the front, with rows of buttons along the bottom to which could be attached
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was adopted for girls' sports wear during ice skating already in the 1860s. While there were no separate dress reform societies founded in Denmark, the women's rights society
177:'The Emancipation Waist.' Excerpt from 'Catalog of Dress Reform and Other Sanitary Under-Garments For Ladies and Children' George Frost and Co., Boston Mass June 1, 1876.
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In the Netherlands, interest for the issue was aroused after the foundation of a dress reform society in neighboring Germany, and in 1899 the Dutch dress reform society
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were worn well into the 1960s, as Riegel states, "Feminine emancipation had brought greater dress reform than the most visionary of the early feminists had advocated."
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became interested, and the movement thereby started in Norway the same year as in Sweden. Johanne Biörn held lectures in the Oslo schools, and the Norwegian designer
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became a widely renowned corset maker, enlisting the help of her husband, a physician, to create corsets which she purported to be more respectful of human anatomy.
1555:
1099:
Principles of Domestic Science: As Applied to the Duties and Pleasures of Home : a Text-book for the Use of Young Ladies in Schools, Seminaries, and Colleges
249:, and surviving examples of the undergarments themselves, all suggest that the corset was almost universal as daily wear by women and young ladies (and numerous
508:
In the early 20th century, however, the French fashion industry was finally influenced by the reform dress movement, which abolished the corset by the 1910s.
1236:
Cunningham, Patricia A (2003). Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press. Libris länk.
219:. While first designed for women, the union suit was also adopted by men, and is still sold and worn today, by both men and women, as winter underclothing.
131:. Feminist historian Leigh Summers theorized that some moral panic derived from the common but unspeakable idea that tightlacing could be used to induce an
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566:
270:. Many doctors helped to fit their patients with corsets to avoid the dangers of ill-fitting corsets, and some doctors even designed corsets themselves.
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from the 1880s; they collaborated with Stockholm and Copenhagen with the design of reform costumes and the exposition of them, notably during the
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experienced success not only in her home country of Norway but also in Sweden, becoming a central figure of the dress reform movement.
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in Berlin 1896, in which Germany, America, Belgium, Denmark, England, Finland, Russia, Sweden, Switzerland, and Hungary participated.
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1896 ad showing a modified girdle, allowing women freedom of the lower extremities, making it easier to ride a bicycle, then in vogue
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by J. Frisch, collaborated with Stockholm and Oslo with the design of reform costumes and the exposition of them, notably during the
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An 1897 ad, showing a relatively early example of an ordinary non-sea-bathing woman in public view in unskirted garments (to ride a
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was one of the few to defy propriety norms and discuss the gynecological issues resulting from lifelong corset usage, in particular
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1468:
Bagerius, Henric.. Korsettkriget : modeslaveri och kvinnokamp vid förra sekelskiftet (Första utgåvan, första tryckningen).
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from 1871 to 1879. She adapted the clothing worn by ladies-in-waiting at the Japanese imperial court to make a uniform for her
530:, which spoke for a health reform in clothing for both women and men supported by medical professionals and scientists such as
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Norway is in fact described as one of the countries were the interest and success for the issue was greatest. The physician
551:, was able to report in 1907 that the German corset industry experienced hardships because of a drop in the use of corsets.
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and hoops as both ugly and dishonest. Some women associated with the movement adopted a revival style based on romanticised
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for dangerous work in coal mines. They wore skirts over their trousers, rolled up to the waist to keep them out of the way.
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48:, led by various reformers who proposed, designed, and wore clothing considered more practical and comfortable than the
1391:
Finding their Place in the World: Meiji Intellectuals and the Japanese Construction of an East-West Binary, 1868-1912
1308:
The Visual History of Costume. Aileen Ribeiro and Valerie Cumming, (Costume & Fashion Press, New York, 1989):188
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320:, who found it sensible and becoming, and adopted it immediately. In this garb, she visited yet another activist,
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785:, social, political, and cultural shifts into the 1920s brought forth an organic relaxation of dress standards.
800:, fashion and undergarment structures relaxed, along with the improved social standing of women. Embodying the
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522:, 'dress reform' in the 19th century, as it was an integrated part of the great health reform movement
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sought dress reform to enhance and celebrate the natural shape of the body, preferring the looser lines of the
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against the front of the corset, which contributed to the moral outrage against the practice. Doctors such as
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996:"Fashion, Emancipation, Reform and the Rational Undergarment" Deborah Jean Waugh 'Dress' Vol 4, 1978"
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While there were no separate dress reform societies founded in Finland, the women's rights society
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While there were no separate dress reform societies founded in Norway, the women's rights society
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91:, or storefronts, where women could buy sewing patterns for the garments, or buy them directly.
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Dress and Morality by Aileen Ribeiro, (Homes and Meier Publishers Inc: New York. 1986) p. 143
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by urchins who followed the unblushing Bloomers...we learn that the ladies are Americans;...'
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Dress and Morality by Aileen Ribeiro, (Homes and Meier Publishers Inc: New York. 1986) p. 134
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in a straight-front corset from about 1892, which became fashionable in the Edwardian period
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1515:"Women's Clothes and Women's Rights," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 399
1497:"Women's Clothes and Women's Rights," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 400
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Dress and Morality by Aileen Ribeiro, (Homes and Meier Publishers Inc: New York. 1986): 139
1488:"Women's Clothes and Women's Right," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 399
1174:"Women's Clothes and Women's Right," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 391
1165:"Women's Clothes and Women's Right," Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963): 390
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1290:"Women's Clothes and Women's Right", Robert E. Riegel, American Quarterly, 15 (1963):393
23:
1895 Punch cartoon. Gertrude: "My dear Jessie, what on earth is that Bicycle Suit for?"
19:
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designs, muted colors, natural and frizzed hair, and lacked definitive waist emphasis.
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counseled patients against them, particularly during maternity; reformist and activist
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and exhibited in public, which gave further publicity to the issue, and in 1886, the
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Amelia Bloomer herself dropped the fashion in 1859, saying that a new invention, the
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in the Western World, from the 1850s through the 1890s. The movement emerged in the
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confections of Victorian fashion with their unnatural silhouette based on a rigid
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The Times, Thursday, Aug 28, 1851; pg. 7; Issue 20892; col B: (A report from the
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general adopted the bloomer costume with trousers and no corsets as sports wear.
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548:
538:, and freedom from the corset and trousers for women was advocated for already.
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181:
116:
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Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, tight lacing, and other forms of body sculpture
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amendment of 1920 and women's increased public career options during and after
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Although the Victorian dress reform movement itself failed to enact widespread
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to be restrictive and harmful to women's health. Utako Shimoda had worked as
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and trailing skirts. These styles were made in the soft colors of vegetable
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Women's suffrage and Western women's fashion through the early 20th century
633:, though it was later mostly replaced with Western sailor-style uniforms.
107:, and padded busts with tiny waists laced into 'steam-moulded corsetry'. '
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An attempt at dress reform in 1891, but keeping a fashionable silhouette
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illustrating the difference between the Victorian and Edwardian corsets
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Victorian era design movement favouring practical women's clothing
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the assignment to design a reform costume, which was produced by
691:, a prominent participant for the abolition of the corset in the
238:, wore these so-called "reform" bodices. However, contemporary
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Dress reformists were largely middle-class women involved in the
1375:, Fataburen Nordiska Museets och Skansens årsbok 1949 s. 127–156
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idea, women donned masculine-inspired fashions including simple
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in the 1860s in literary and artistic circles, died back in the
1333:
Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920: politics, health, and art
1409:"Shimoda's Program for Japanese and Chinese Women's Education"
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International Congress for Women's Work and Women's Endeavors
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Beecher, Catharine Esther; Stowe, Harriet Beecher (1870).
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and other artistic reformers objected to the elaborately
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brought with him the English language dress reform book
206:; patterns could be ordered through the mail. Physician
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The most famous product of the dress reform era is the
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Allgemeiner Verein zur Verbesserung der Frauenkleidung
99:
Fashion in the 1850s through the 1880s accented large
735:
Reformdrägten: En bok för qvinnor skrifven af qvinnor
623:(1912–-1926), other women's schools also adopted the
1214:"Inès Gâches-Sarraute and the Straight-Front Corset"
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actively addressed the issue under the influence of
491:
actively addressed the issue under the influence of
461:
actively addressed the issue under the influence of
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dress reformers). The bodices had to be fitted by a
193:
Dress reformers promoted the emancipation waist, or
1118:Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset
660:Veereeniging voor Verbetering van Vrouwenkleeding
595:, educator and dress reformer, found traditional
1383:
1381:
729:from abroad, which was translated to Swedish by
359:In the 1870s, a largely English movement led by
87:Some of the movement's proponents established
414:The style spread as an "anti-fashion" called
150:"Emancipation waists" and undergarment reform
8:
841:Approx. second half of 1880s poster showing
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523:
517:
29:Jessie: "No; but I've got a Sewing Machine!"
1335:. Kent, Ohio: Kent State University Press.
639:also designed sports clothes for children.
1413:CLCWeb: Comparative Literature and Culture
230:It is not clear how many women, in either
27:Gertrude: "But you haven't got a Bicycle!"
1424:
324:, the editor of the temperance magazine
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1482:
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1039:
989:
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631:standard wear for high schools in Japan
465:in the 1880s; they published their own
1447:. The Gakushuin School. Archived from
1185:"Woman's dress, a question of the day"
1142:"Woman's dress, a question of the day"
434:The rational dress movement by country
1556:History of clothing (Western fashion)
1207:
1205:
1120:(reprint ed.). Berg Publishers.
516:Germany was a leading country of the
7:
1111:
1109:
1078:
1076:
1394:(Thesis). Georgia State University.
650:replaced more cumbersome garments.
642:At the imperial court, simplified
222:In 1878, a German professor named
25:Jessie: "Why, to wear, of course."
14:
332:National Dress Reform Association
1388:Racel, Masako N. Thesis (2011).
1331:Cunningham, Patricia A. (2003).
1212:Libes, Kenna (5 February 2023).
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678:the Swedish Dress Reform Society
493:the Swedish Dress Reform Society
463:the Swedish Dress Reform Society
38:Victorian dress reform movement
1407:Suzuki, Mamiko (1 June 2013).
1373:Dräktreformer under 1800-talet
471:Om Sundheden og Kyindedraegten
1:
1029:Boston Women's Heritage Trail
963:Svenska drägtreformföreningen
714:Svenska drägtreformföreningen
334:, which was founded in 1856.
305:suit. In 1851, a New England
138:American women active in the
1009:Good Housekeeping, Vols. 5-6
968:Trousers as women's clothing
845:wearing short-skirted attire
759:Swedish Dress Reform Society
816:Although forms of corsets,
788:With new opportunities for
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279:in the early 20th century.
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777:Eventual shifts in fashion
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391:influences such as puffed
377:Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood
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286:
892:" scandalized by wearing
783:change in women's fashion
741:held at the women's club
682:Nordic Exhibition of 1888
613:Jissen Women's University
475:Nordic Exhibition of 1888
95:Criticisms of tightlacing
44:) of the middle and late
1218:Fashion History Timeline
698:Norsk Kvinnesaksforening
673:Norsk Kvinnesaksforening
349:Aesthetic Dress movement
253:) until the 1920s, when
36:was an objective of the
1116:Summers, Leigh (2001).
1082:Alice Bunker Stockham.
407:style, featured silks,
399:, ornamented with hand
355:Artistic Dress movement
42:rational dress movement
1546:Clothing controversies
1441:"History of Gakushuin"
1426:10.7771/1481-4374.2212
1189:Early Canadiana Online
1146:Early Canadiana Online
1055:Kunzle, David (2006).
948:History of the bicycle
739:Anne Charlotte Leffler
737:. After a speech by
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318:Elizabeth Cady Stanton
311:Elizabeth Smith Miller
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57:first wave of feminism
34:Victorian dress reform
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1369:Hazelius-Berg, Gunnel
747:Friends of Handicraft
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561:Meiji-period clothing
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227:were widely popular.
208:Alice Bunker Stockham
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121:Alice Bunker Stockham
111:' became part of the
67:, women's education,
63:along with calls for
22:
1541:19th-century fashion
1006:Bryan, C.W. (1887).
767:Annie Jenness Miller
496:Petersburg in 1893.
276:Inès Gaches-Sarraute
257:began to take over.
240:portrait photography
187:Ladies' Home Journal
185:A 1900 diagram from
167:Inès Gaches-Sarraute
144:temperance movements
89:dress reform parlors
1445:www.gakushuin.ac.jp
721:In 1885, professor
689:Lorentz Dietrichson
488:Suomen Naisyhdistys
458:Dansk Kvindesamfund
422:, and reemerged as
307:temperance activist
261:The hygienic corset
210:railed against the
40:(also known as the
1278:Caledonian Mercury
1253:The New York Times
943:Corset controversy
693:corset controversy
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113:corset controversy
31:
1551:Victorian fashion
1476:. OCLC 1112090542
1474:978-91-27-15169-7
1059:. History Press.
973:Victorian fashion
619:(1868–-1912) and
569:Shimoda Utako in
361:Mary Eliza Haweis
125:Catharine Beecher
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751:Hanna Winge
723:Curt Wallis
549:Minna Cauer
369:renaissance
268:corsetieres
78:union suits
1535:Categories
1455:2021-07-17
1342:0873387422
1242:0873387422
1223:2023-12-27
1127:185973510X
1066:0750938099
984:References
712:See also:
559:See also:
401:embroidery
315:suffragist
247:literature
217:union suit
204:dressmaker
199:petticoats
101:crinolines
82:long johns
65:temperance
1397:107-127."
1265:The Times
802:New Woman
343:crinoline
1194:26 March
1151:26 March
1084:Tokology
902:See also
894:trousers
806:tailored
794:suffrage
743:Nya Idun
467:brochure
409:oriental
389:medieval
365:medieval
327:The Lily
289:Bloomers
133:abortion
69:suffrage
50:fashions
938:Bicycle
871:bicycle
828:Gallery
818:girdles
601:corsets
512:Germany
481:Finland
447:Denmark
426:in the
403:in the
381:trimmed
303:bloomer
255:girdles
244:fashion
117:rubbing
105:bustles
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708:Sweden
666:Norway
626:hakama
597:kimono
581:hakama
500:France
385:corset
309:named
234:or on
212:corset
1419:(2).
1086:1898.
886:Wigan
749:gave
646:keiko
555:Japan
428:1880s
420:1870s
1470:ISBN
1337:ISBN
1238:ISBN
1196:2012
1153:2012
1122:ISBN
1061:ISBN
822:bras
820:and
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375:The
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