89:
99:
483:, 8481 m, West face, two attempts of direct new route (during the second, in autumn, they reached ca. 7900 m), with Jerzy Kukuczka, Alex MacIntyre (later Kukuczka reached the summit in solo climb via the variation of the normal route)
140:, in lightweight, alpine style. He started climbing in the Himalayas in 1974. After participating in two big Polish national expeditions in 1974 and 1976, he gradually turned to lightweight expeditions.
132:
on the continent (4 men Polish team, see the list of climbs below). He started in
Greater Ranges in 1972, completing a little-known – but important according to him – first ascent of the wall of
713:
1081:
182:
The ideas of minimal equipment and support even on the most difficult walls and highest peaks was included in his philosophical concept of the "path of the mountain".
200:
Besides being a climber, Kurtyka is author of many articles on climbing published in Polish and
English. He is also an inventor (around 1980) of the local Polish
292:
1980 – Kazalnica, Kant Filara (The Edge of The Pillar), first free ascent (actually the hardest free route in the Tatras), with Władysław
Janowski
1061:
443:- this long route was finished to the summit - via a diversion of the top section of the Abruzzi Ridge - in 1978 by American expedition led by
27:
63:
699:
and then opens, with grades VI.1, VI.2 etc., today up to VI.8. For example see table in AAJ, 1998, Vol. 40, p. 421 (internet access:
1066:
413:, 7025 m or 7017 m (Hindu Kush, Afghanistan), NW face, new route, with Jacek Rusiecki, Marek Kowalczyk, Piotr Jasiński (all Polish)
88:
328:
1086:
976:
1071:
76:
magazine declared to be the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century. In 2016, he received the
700:
197:
magazine as one of the 10 most impressive climbs of the 20th century (including rock climbing, bouldering etc.).
889:
459:
435:, 8611 m, East ridge, attempt (Kurtyka reached ca. 7900 m, the highest point reached by expedition ca. 8400 m (
264:
925:
779:
1076:
1056:
714:"Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism"
789:
759:
731:
769:
324:
585:
436:
268:
1051:
929:
833:
555:
547:
473:
172:
509:
348:
186:
865:
799:
551:
440:
320:
272:
71:
581:
410:
133:
114:
1032:
682:), Climbing, Millennium Special Issue, No. 192, March 15, 2000, p. 84 (whole article pp. 78-87)
228:
Free solo ascent of 7c+ route in 1993 - actually probably the hardest free solo climb in Poland
204:
of free climbs. This system uses an opened scale, called "Kurtyka scale" or "Krakowska scale".
121:
he did a lot of first free ascents, first ascents in winter and established new winter routes.
1010:
998:, with detailed list of ascents of 1970-2003, including rock climbs (access on March 22, 2010)
972:
395:
340:
992:
617:- Traverse of all three Broad Peak summits, North (new route), Middle (or Central) and Main,
491:
469:
425:
377:
201:
164:
843:
501:
124:
Kurtyka became well known abroad in early 1973 after achieving the first winter ascent of
289:) route, 1st ascent (in winter), with Piotr Jasiński, Krzysztof Pankiewicz, Zbigniew Wach
847:
520:
455:
421:
370:
258:
208:
160:
148:
144:
77:
47:
1026:
1045:
639:
633:
603:
540:
497:
444:
190:
110:
103:
67:
1019:
267:, Pająki route (route of the Slovak group "The Spiders"), first winter ascent, with
1001:
643:
629:
618:
599:
577:
533:
516:
508:), West face (Shining Wall), first ascent, alpine style, (not to the summit), with
451:
156:
43:
39:
854:, Publ. Mitchell Beazley, London 1994; Chris Bonington, Audrey Salkeld (editors),
1016:, with clear review of Himalayan ascents of 1977-2003 (access on March 22, 2010)
403:
312:
238:
125:
59:
35:
949:
696:
614:
592:
573:
465:
399:
250:
249:
in Slovak), NE face, new free route (which opens the grade higher than VI (in
152:
137:
109:
His climbs in Poland consist of many difficult climbs – in crags, the hardest
92:
51:
31:
505:
362:
355:
98:
55:
472:, India), S face direct, new route, with Alex MacIntyre, John Porter and
358:, W face, Directe Americaine, first Polish ascent, with Andrzej Tarnawski
143:
His teammates were such world-class
Himalayan climbers as, among others,
625:
487:
406:), N ridge, new route, with Alicja Bednarz, Ryszard Kozioł (all Polish)
316:
168:
351:, W face, Vitali-Ratti route, first Polish ascent, with Janusz Kurczab
319:
Valley, French route (French directissima), first winter ascent, with
480:
447:). The complete line to the summit via the NE-Ridge is as yet virgin.
417:
304:
118:
932:, with info from climbers, p. 67-68, with topo of the massif)
559:
420:
8516 m, member of the first winter (autumn to winter) expedition (
176:
129:
97:
87:
336:
295:
Kazalnica, other first winter ascents and new routes, 1971, 1992
550:, Karakoram, S face, new route (Japanese-Polish Picnic), with
766:
The Abseil and the Ascent, The Art of
Abseiling into the Hell
676:
The Great
Ascents. Climbing's top achievements of the century
454:, 6868 m (Hindu Kush, Afghanistan), NE face, new route, with
66:). In 1985 he climbed the "Shining Wall," the west face of
526:
432:
695:
or Polish Scale – It is up to VI grade very close to the
529:, W face, several (4 or 5) attempts, up to 6650 m (1994)
937:
Interviews with, and broad articles on
Wojciech Kurtyka
519:, 6239 m (Baltoro, Karakoram), E face, new route, with
384:), new route, with Jerzy Kukuczka and Marek Łukaszewski
369:, to commemorate Jan Franczuk who died during the 1971
298:
1991 – new routes up to 7c+ in limestone part of Tatras
189:'s (Austrian) climb of the west face (Shining Wall) of
954:
Between the Hammer and the Anvil. The Art of
Suffering
373:
expedition), with Jerzy
Kukuczka and Marek Łukaszewski
993:
Wojciech
Kurtyka climbing profile on climbandmore.com
969:
Art of Freedom: The Life and Climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
606:- two new routes, alpine style, with Jerzy Kukuczka (
892:, October 1976 (and Climber&Rambler, March 1976)
856:
Heroic climbs: a celebration of world mountaineering
1020:
Karakorum, Biacherahi 2001, Kurtyka on nyka.home.pl
956:, Climbing, No. 115, Aug/Sept 1989, pp. 78–86
852:
Great Climbs: a celebration of world mountaineering
1011:Wojciech Kurtyka climbing profile on bergfieber.de
820:, Mountain, No. 127, May/June 1989, pp. 22–27
595:- normal route, alpine style, with Jerzy Kukuczka
836:, No. 5, November/December 1993, pp. 36–47
543:, Nepal, 2nd ascent, with Maciej Rysula (Polish)
1007:, with search engine (access on March 22, 2010)
662:The Path of the Mountain, Alpinism, 1986, see:
16:Polish mountaineer and rock climber, born 1947.
928:, No. 234, May 2002 (Mountain Info, edited by
546:2001 – Biacherahi Tower, Central, ca. 5700 m (
128:(Troll Wall) in Norway, the highest vertical
8:
1082:Sportspeople from Lower Silesian Voivodeship
642:, central summit 8008 m, S face, new route,
80:for lifetime achievement in mountaineering.
946:, chapter X, The Mountaineers, Seattle 1993
918:, Mountain, No. 77, January/February 1981
907:, Mountain, No. 65, January/February 1979
608:Polish Alex MacIntyre Memorial Expedition
428:on 27 December reached height ca. 8250 m)
225:New routes up to 8a, 8a+ in Polish crags,
1002:American Alpine Journal, internet access
944:Beyond Risk. Conversations with Climbers
812:The East Face of Trango’s Nameless Tower
655:
646:, with Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet
539:1995 – Losar, 700 m high icefall above
211:Carrière (Lifetime Achievement Award).
701:American Alpine Journal 1998, pdf file
824:New Routes, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma
46:of climbing the biggest walls in the
7:
782:(AAJ), 1986 (Vol. 28), pp. 1–5
808:, Mountain, No. 121, May/June 1988
365:, N face, new route in left part (
14:
776:The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV
750:Self-authored articles in English
858:, The Mountaineers, Seattle 1994
536:, 8126 m, Mazeno Ridge, attempts
64:Wrocław University of Technology
26:Kurtyka, born 25 July 1947, in
874:, Alpinist, No. 4, Autumn 2003
734:, No. 2 , 1974, pp. 65-66 (in
58:. He graduated as engineer in
1:
967:McDonald, Bernadette (2017).
42:, one of the pioneers of the
584:(Swiss), Alex MacIntyre and
54:up to 1974 when he moved to
728:Petit Dru – voie Petit Jean
1103:
1062:People from Kłodzko County
1038:, (access on May 25, 2015)
1029:(access on March 22, 2010)
826:, AAJ 1991, pp. 14–18
814:, AAJ 1989, pp. 45–49
756:The Gasherbrums Are Lonely
632:, with Erhard Loretan and
580:(not to the summit), with
163:(1988, 1990, 1991, 1997),
147:(1977, 1978, 1980, 1981),
1033:Wojciech "Voytek" Kurtyka
903:, Climbing, No 55, 1979;
901:Changabang South Buttress
380:, N face (Pointe Hélène,
277:1973 – Kocioł Kazalnicy (
207:In 2016, he received the
1067:Polish mountain climbers
971:. Rocky Mountain Books.
786:The Path of the Mountain
576:- East face, new route,
257:), with Michał Gabryel,
193:in 1985 was selected by
802:, No. 94, February 1986
780:American Alpine Journal
762:, No. 97, May/June 1984
517:Trango (Nameless) Tower
490:, winter attempt, with
315:, N face (Troll Wall),
912:Dhaulagiri’s East Face
897:Bandaka and Changabang
796:Broad Peak North Ridge
628:- SW face, new route,
106:
95:
770:The Himalayan Journal
621:, with Jerzy Kukuczka
245:1970 – Mały Młynarz (
101:
91:
1072:Polish rock climbers
942:Nicholas O’Connell,
886:Troll Wall in Winter
868:, No. 2, Spring 2003
806:The Art of Suffering
558:(during attempts to
175:(2000, 2001, K2 and
151:(1981, 1983, 1984),
117:of the time. In the
1087:Piolet d'Or winners
840:The Polish Syndrome
830:The Polish Syndrome
726:Marek Łukaszewski:
283:Kazalnica Sanctuary
253:); commonly called
922:Biacherahi Central
329:Tadeusz Piotrowski
325:Ryszard Kowalewski
233:European mountains
107:
96:
586:Ludwik Wilczyński
567:Eight-thousanders
437:Eugeniusz Chrobak
341:Mont Blanc Massif
171:winter attempt),
1094:
1037:
1024:
1015:
1006:
997:
982:
910:Alex MacIntyre,
905:South Side Story
862:The Shining Wall
739:
737:
724:
718:
717:
710:
704:
703:AAJ 1998 p. 421)
689:
683:
674:Gregory Crouch,
672:
666:
660:
492:Reinhold Messner
470:Garhwal Himalaya
426:Andrzej Heinrich
378:Grandes Jorasses
269:Kazimierz Głazek
165:Reinhold Messner
115:free solo climbs
102:Shining Wall on
20:Wojciech Kurtyka
1102:
1101:
1097:
1096:
1095:
1093:
1092:
1091:
1042:
1041:
1035:
1022:
1013:
1004:
995:
989:
979:
966:
963:
961:Further reading
930:Lindsay Griffin
881:
844:Chris Bonington
834:Mountain Review
818:Trango Extremes
772:, Vol. 42, 1985
752:
747:
742:
735:
725:
721:
712:
711:
707:
693:Skala Krakowska
690:
686:
673:
669:
661:
657:
653:
569:
556:Yasushi Yamanoi
548:Choktoi Glacier
474:Krzysztof Żurek
445:James Whittaker
391:
367:Voie Petit Jean
285:), Superściek (
235:
222:
217:
215:Selected climbs
173:Yasushi Yamanoi
119:Tatra Mountains
86:
17:
12:
11:
5:
1100:
1098:
1090:
1089:
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1017:
1008:
999:
988:
987:External links
985:
984:
983:
977:
962:
959:
958:
957:
947:
934:
933:
919:
916:Broken English
908:
893:
884:Marek Brniak,
880:
877:
876:
875:
869:
859:
848:Audrey Salkeld
837:
827:
821:
815:
809:
803:
793:
792:, Vol. 1, 1986
783:
773:
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751:
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647:
636:
622:
611:
596:
589:
568:
565:
564:
563:
544:
537:
530:
523:
521:Erhard Loretan
513:
510:Robert Schauer
494:
484:
477:
462:
456:Alex MacIntyre
448:
429:
424:, leader, and
422:Andrzej Zawada
414:
407:
390:
387:
386:
385:
374:
371:Kunyang Chhish
359:
352:
349:Aiguille Noire
333:
332:
300:
299:
296:
293:
290:
275:
261:
259:Janusz Kurczab
234:
231:
230:
229:
226:
221:
218:
216:
213:
202:grading system
187:Robert Schauer
185:Kurtyka's and
161:Erhard Loretan
149:Jerzy Kukuczka
145:Alex MacIntyre
85:
82:
50:. He lived in
48:Greater Ranges
34:) is a Polish
15:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1099:
1088:
1085:
1083:
1080:
1078:
1077:Free soloists
1075:
1073:
1070:
1068:
1065:
1063:
1060:
1058:
1057:Living people
1055:
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895:John Porter,
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879:Other sources
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678:(sub-chapter
677:
671:
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665:
659:
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650:
645:
641:
640:Shisha Pangma
637:
635:
634:Jean Troillet
631:
627:
623:
620:
616:
612:
609:
605:
604:Gasherbrum II
601:
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587:
583:
579:
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566:
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553:
549:
545:
542:
541:Namche Bazaar
538:
535:
532:1993, 1997 –
531:
528:
524:
522:
518:
514:
511:
507:
503:
499:
498:Gasherbrum IV
495:
493:
489:
485:
482:
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467:
463:
461:
457:
453:
449:
446:
442:
441:Wojciech Wróż
438:
434:
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427:
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342:
338:
330:
326:
322:
321:Marek Kęsicki
318:
314:
310:
309:
308:
307:
306:
303:Mountains of
297:
294:
291:
288:
284:
280:
279:Kazalnica Cwm
276:
274:
273:Marek Kęsicki
270:
266:
262:
260:
256:
252:
248:
244:
243:
242:
241:
240:
232:
227:
224:
223:
220:Rock climbing
219:
214:
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205:
203:
198:
196:
192:
191:Gasherbrum IV
188:
183:
180:
178:
174:
170:
166:
162:
158:
154:
150:
146:
141:
139:
135:
131:
127:
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120:
116:
112:
105:
104:Gasherbrum IV
100:
94:
90:
83:
81:
79:
75:
74:
69:
68:Gasherbrum IV
65:
61:
57:
53:
49:
45:
41:
37:
33:
29:
25:
21:
1036:(in English)
1005:(in English)
996:(in English)
968:
953:
943:
936:
935:
921:
915:
914:, AAJ 1981;
911:
904:
900:
899:, AAJ 1979;
896:
885:
871:
861:
855:
851:
839:
829:
823:
817:
811:
805:
795:
785:
775:
765:
755:
745:Bibliography
727:
722:
708:
692:
687:
679:
675:
670:
663:
658:
644:alpine style
630:alpine style
619:alpine style
607:
600:Gasherbrum I
582:René Ghilini
578:alpine style
534:Nanga Parbat
525:1987-2000 –
452:Kohe Bandaka
389:Great Ranges
382:Polish route
381:
366:
335:
334:
331:(all Polish)
302:
301:
286:
282:
278:
254:
246:
237:
236:
206:
199:
194:
184:
181:
157:Nanga Parbat
142:
123:
108:
72:
62:(in 1973 at
44:alpine style
40:rock climber
23:
19:
18:
1052:1947 births
1023:(in Polish)
1014:(in German)
850:(editors),
736:(in Polish)
562:N buttress)
460:John Porter
411:Akher Chogh
404:Afghanistan
313:Trollryggen
287:Super Sewer
247:Malý Mlynár
239:High Tatras
209:Piolet d'Or
179:attempts).
134:Akher Chogh
126:Trollveggen
111:free climbs
78:Piolet d'Or
60:electronics
36:mountaineer
1046:Categories
978:1771602120
950:Greg Child
697:UIAA scale
680:G IV, 1985
651:References
615:Broad Peak
593:Broad Peak
574:Dhaulagiri
512:(Austrian)
500:, 7925 m (
468:, 6864 m (
466:Changabang
400:Hindu Kush
398:, 7015 m (
255:Kurtykówka
251:UIAA scale
159:attempt),
153:Doug Scott
138:Hindu Kush
93:Troll Wall
506:Karakoram
363:Petit Dru
356:Petit Dru
265:Kazalnica
866:Alpinist
800:Climbing
790:Alpinism
760:Mountain
732:Taternik
664:articles
588:(Polish)
476:(Polish)
396:Kohe Tez
195:Climbing
73:Climbing
70:, which
28:Skrzynka
1025:, with
638:1990 –
626:Cho Oyu
624:1990 –
613:1984 –
598:1983 –
591:1982 –
572:1980 –
560:Latok I
515:1988 –
502:Baltoro
496:1985 –
488:Cho Oyu
486:1982 –
479:1981 –
464:1978 –
450:1977 –
431:1976 –
416:1974 –
409:1972 –
394:1972 –
376:1975 –
361:1973 –
354:1973 –
347:1971 –
317:Romsdal
311:1973 –
263:1972 –
169:Cho Oyu
167:(1982,
155:(1993,
52:Wrocław
32:Kłodzko
975:
890:Summit
481:Makalu
418:Lhotse
305:Norway
84:Career
56:Kraków
24:Voytek
22:(also
872:Losar
552:Taeko
177:Latok
130:cliff
30:near
1027:topo
973:ISBN
926:High
691:aka
554:and
458:and
337:Alps
113:and
38:and
842:,
136:in
1048::
952:,
924:,
888:,
864:,
846:,
832:,
798:,
788:,
778:,
768:,
758:,
730:,
602:,
527:K2
504:,
439:,
433:K2
402:,
339:,
327:,
323:,
281:,
271:,
981:.
738:)
716:.
610:)
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