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collection, match one of her extant watercolor designs. A gown currently preserved at
Colonial Williamsburg was made sometime between 1775 and 1785 with the silk lampas that Garthwaite designed in 1726-28, which was passed down in an American family for around fifty years and reused for three
206:. From 1742–43, Garthwaite's work—and English silk design in general—diverged from French styles, favouring clusters of smaller naturalistic flowers in bright colours scattered across a (usually) pale ground. The taste for vividly realistic florals reflects the advances in
154:
in 1728, and Anna Maria created over 1000 designs for woven silks there over the next three decades. Some 874 of her original designs in watercolour from the 1720s through 1756 have survived and are now in the collection of the
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technique developed by the French silk designer Jean Revel in the 1730s for representing near-three-dimensional floral patterns through careful shading, and her designs included large-scale
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142:, Lincolnshire, who was rector of nearby Harston, Leicestershire, at the time of her birth, and his wife Rejoyce Hausted. Anna Maria left Grantham to live in
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146:
with her twice-widowed sister Mary from 1726 to 1728. They relocated to a house in
Princes Street (now Princelet Street) in the silk-weaving district of
122:, London, in the mid-18th century. Garthwaite was acknowledged as one of the premiere English designers of her day. Many of her original designs in
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at this time, and can be contrasted with French silks of the period which show stylised flowers and more harmonious, if unrealistic, colourations.
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225:. The connections established in Colonial America allowed Garthwaite's silk to be spread and recognized around the globe. Surviving silk
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Surviving 18th century
English slks, several designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite, in the Abegg Foundation collection in Switzerland
159:. Many of these designs are dated and annotated with weaving instructions and the names of the weavers to whom they were sold. A
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Silk
Designs of the Eighteenth Century: In the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, With a Complete Catalogue
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of 1751 listed
Garthwaite as one of three designers who had "introduced the Principles of Painting into the loom."
164:
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648:
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Garthwaite has been called the "pre-eminent silk designer of her period". Malachy
Postlethwayt (c. 1707–1767) in
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676:(focusing on the portrait by Robert Feke of Mrs Charles Willing in a dress made of silk designed by Garthwaite)
83:
717:
103:
45:
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Garthwaite's work is closely associated with the mid-18th century fashion for flowered woven silks in the
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in 1746 wearing a gown of
English silk damask woven to a surviving 1743 design by Anna Maria Garthwaite.
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Surviving dress of silk designed by Anna Maria
Garthwaite, at the Albany Institute of History and Art
303:
in 1998 marks the house at 2 Princelet Street, Spitalfields, E1, where
Garthwaite lived and worked.
123:
629:
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783:
The
Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Woven Textile Design in Britain 1750 to 1850
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The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Woven Textile Design in Britain to 1750
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generations before being assembled into the wedding dress that is now in their collection.
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have survived, and silks based on these designs have been identified in portraiture and in
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Anna Maria Garthwaite was the daughter of the Reverend Ephraim Garthwaite (1647–1719) of
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Silk brocade designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite, 1748, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Banta, Andaleeb Badiee; Greist, Alexa; Christensen, Theresa Kutasz (5 January 2023).
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Surviving sleeved waistcoat, 1747, patterned silk designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite
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Her will dated 1758 was read 24 October 1763, at Princes Street in the parish of
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have been attributed to Garthwaite, because the panels, which are housed in the
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708:
475:
Rothstein, Natalie: "Silk in the Early Modern Period". In David Jenkins, ed.:
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What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America
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Spitalfields silks were widely exported to Northern Europe and especially to
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846:(contextual essay at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Timeline of Art History)
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Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century: From the Victoria and Albert Museum
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Portrait of a Woman in Silk: Hidden Histories of the British Atlantic World
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Portrait of a Woman in Silk: Hidden Histories of the British Atlantic World
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gives Anna Maria's baptism date as 14 March 1688/89, which would be 1689
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Christ Church, Spitalfields, Register of burials, Mary 1748 – Sep 1764
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From Fabulous to Frump: The Changing Fashions of Martha Washington
537: Eighteenth-Century Studies 50, no. 3 (Spring 2017) p. 17.
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169:
82:
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Kraak, Deborah E.: "Eighteenth-century English floral silks." In
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Meandering floral vines design attributed to Garthwaite, ca 1740.
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Freshman, Philip, Dorothy J. Schuler, and Barbara Einzig, eds.:
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Detail of a brocaded design of peonies, lilies, and roses, 1744.
143:
853:
741:
An Elegant Art: Fashion & Fantasy in the Eighteenth Century
908:
459:
Rothstein, Natalie: "The Elegant Art of Woven Silk". In
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Deitz, Paula: "Discovered Along the Flowered-Silk Road",
356:, p. 560; most museums give her birth year as 1690. This
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2 Princelet Street Spitalfields London E1, with plaque
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Thunder, Moira: "Improving Design for Woven Silks",
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785:, Canopy Books, New York, London, and Paris, 1994.
771:, Canopy Books, New York, London, and Paris, 1994.
757:, Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003,
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53:
30:
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448:Metropolitan Museum of Art Timeline of Art History
163:in the collection of the Costume Institute of the
106:, c. 14 March 1688 – October 1763) was an English
743:, Abrams/Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1983,
110:known for creating vivid floral designs for silk
401:Genealogical record for Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite
358:genealogical record for Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite
290:The Universal Dictionary of Trade and Commerce
161:waistcoat woven to one of Garthwaite's designs
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844:Textile Production in Europe: Silk, 1600–1800
374:Textile Production in Europe: Silk, 1600–1800
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420:Woven Textile Design in Britain 1750 to 1850
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352:This is the date and place given by the
713:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
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253:three days later on 27 October 1763 as
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709:‘Garthwaite, Anna Maria (1688–1763?)’
697:, London, Thames & Hudson, 1996,
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630:Albany Institute of History and Art
130:collections in England and abroad.
229:panels said to have been owned by
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1217:People from the Borough of Melton
649:Blue Plaques at English Heritage
490:Silk Designs of the 18th Century
182:style, with its new emphasis on
683:, Yale University Press, 2002.
668:, Yale University Press, 2016.
598:London Metropolitan Archives,
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584:: CS1 maint: date and year (
257:aged 75 of Princes Street.
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376:, retrieved 26 April 2008.
165:Metropolitan Museum of Art
157:Victoria and Albert Museum
1222:British textile designers
906:
806:, Bullfinch Press, 1990,
651:, retrieved 26 April 2008
639:, retrieved 25 April 2008
619:, retrieved 26 April 2008
613:Journal of Design History
508:, retrieved 26 April 2008
450:, retrieved 25 April 2008
438:, retrieved 25 April 2008
403:, retrieved 26 April 2008
233:prior to her marriage to
194:-curves. She adapted the
1125:Valerie Campbell-Harding
87:Mrs. Charles Willing of
718:Oxford University Press
564:. Goose Lane Editions.
186:structures and sinuous
104:Harston, Leicestershire
46:Harston, Leicestershire
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208:botanical illustration
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895:Anna Maria Garthwaite
753:Jenkins, David, ed.:
602:, P93/CTC1, Item 044.
504:The Magazine Antiques
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261:Assessment and legacy
255:Anna-Maria Garthwaite
239:Colonial Williamsburg
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100:Anna Maria Garthwaite
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802:Rothstein, Natalie:
781:Rothstein, Natalie:
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550:(Fairfax, VA, 2016).
249:. She was buried at
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664:Anishanslin, Zara:
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533:Anishanslin, Zara.
522:What Clothes Reveal
520:Baumgarten, Linda:
341:What Clothes Reveal
339:Baumgarten, Linda:
1179:Early 21st century
1150:Vuokko Nurmesniemi
1064:Franco Scalamandré
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202:as well as floral
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979:Laura Ashley
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120:Spitalfields
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89:Philadelphia
59:(1763-10-00)
57:October 1763
18:
1212:1763 deaths
1207:1688 births
1145:Meera Mehta
1089:Suzie Zuzek
1054:Ruth Reeves
1049:Ernest Race
1019:Maija Isola
506:1 June 1998
299:granted by
297:Blue Plaque
93:Robert Feke
66:Nationality
1201:Categories
1165:Sue Timney
1084:Mary White
1009:Joan Glass
571:1773103180
479:p. 554-555
463:, p. 83-85
319:References
38:1688-03-14
1069:May Smith
1039:Marimekko
994:Ada Dietz
628:Cited at
580:cite book
362:New Style
324:Citations
48:, England
34:probably
999:Elenhank
720:, 2004,
633:Archived
488:Browne,
307:See also
204:brocades
140:Grantham
1186:Kvadrat
1170:Up Tied
524:, p. 84
422:, p.111
343:, p. 85
212:Britain
200:damasks
180:Roccoco
128:costume
112:fabrics
69:English
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116:woven
114:hand-
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586:link
566:ISBN
144:York
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31:Born
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