Knowledge (XXG)

1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition

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third Braithwaite, Estcourt, Ang Phurba and Bonington himself. Bonington had previously promised Estcourt and Braithwaite they would be in any second party but he decided they might be weak right after their Rock Band exertions so he told them to return briefly to Camp 2 and then return to join the third party. They accepted this with good grace. Pertemba had been told he could select a sherpa for each of the two later attempts. Burke had been climbing slowly but Bonington considered that this could have been due to the weight of camera equipment and he realised the value of having filming high up on the mountain. MacInnes would have been a strong contender but Bonington was beginning to favour a younger person (Boardman) and MacInnes had still not recovered from the avalanche. MacInnes, upset, said he would leave the expedition but he would tell the press it was solely due to his health. Privately Clarke, the team doctor, advised Bonington that he should not include himself in the summit attempts since that would mean he would be above 7,800 metres (25,500 ft) for far too long. Reluctantly Bonington accepted this and gave his place to Richards.
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setting fixed rope to be used subsequently, and ascending 370 metres (1,200 ft) to the foot of a buttress at the place selected for Camp 3. Estcourt and Braithwaite followed next day, climbing beyond Camp 3 and taking two days fixing rope over difficult powder snow. Another two days allowed them to establish Camp 4 at 7,200 metres (23,700 ft) and fix rope beyond towards the Great Central Gully. Boysen and Boardman, and subsequently Haston, MacInnes and Bonington arrived to hack away platforms for camps suitable for sherpas and equipment high on the face. MacInnes was struck by an avalanche and, although he was not directly injured, ice crystals filled his lungs and he had to be helped to descend the face. Boardman, Haston and Boysen climbed to find a site for Camp 5.
502:(anchors for embedding in snow) turned out to be especially useful because in conditions of soft snow. Eleven tonnes of food was taken and a greater quantity was procured in Nepal. Meals of different menus were wrapped identically to avoid the risk of favourite meals being selected out before they could be carried high on the mountain. Face boxes (box-like tents) were needed because there are no sizeable ledges on the steep face. The face boxes used in 1973 had been found to be not strong enough to resist falling rocks and ice, so for this expedition MacInnes designed strengthened boxes with roofs of bulletproof mesh for the lower camps on the face and small-size "assault boxes" for Camp 6. The two-man assault boxes were 1.07 by 1.12 by 1.91 metres. 777:
on the Western Cwm where they were interviewed by the BBC. Two days earlier Camp 1 had been evacuated as it began to slide down the Icefall and on 27 September the people at Camp 4 had been ordered down because it was threatened by the huge amount of snow higher up the face. During the evacuation, Gordon had become stranded in the dark and a rescue needed to be mounted – Bonington with a rescue party located him and managed to return with him to Camp 2 at midnight. Later that night an avalanche devastated the entire camp and, though no one was injured, the camp had to be abandoned. The expedition was back to Base Camp by 30 September, to Kathmandu by 11 October, and to London on 17 October.
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the site for Camp 6. After a rest at the camp the support climbers returned to Camp 5 leaving Haston and Scott to hack out space for their assault box. The following day they fixed a full 500 metres (1,600 ft) of rope and returned to their "tent". After waking at 01:00 they left at 03:30 next morning, in the dark, setting off up their fixed ropes. Expecting they would have to bivouac on their round-trip to the summit, they took a tent sack (but no tent or sleeping bags), a stove for melting snow and two oxygen cylinders each. Three 50-metre (160 ft) ropes were taken for difficult sections.
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upper snowfield and a long traverse would be taken to the Southeast Ridge. To complete the traverse, climb the ridge, and return would be a very long day – a bivouac on the return might well be necessary. To get into a position to do this a large support team would need to make a rapid ascent up the central gully so very careful logistical planning would be necessary. Supplementary oxygen would be used above Camp 4 for climbers and Camp 5 for sherpas and 4,000 metres (13,000 ft) of fixed rope would be used up the face (fixed rope in the Icefall and climbing rope would be additional).
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eventually arrived he was able to persuade Bonington to let him continue. The following morning all four started the ascent but Boysen's oxygen set soon failed and he lost a crampon and so had to return to the camp. Boardman and Pertemba climbed strongly with Burke lagging far behind. The pair had reached the South Summit by 11:00 where Pertemba's oxygen blocked in the same way as had Haston's. They reached the summit of Everest at just after 13:00 on 26 September. There was poor visibility in the wind-driven mist.
650: 221:(Clough was killed during the descent). The expedition was a huge success because not only was the summit reached but it was, for its time, the most difficult technical climb to the summit of a major world peak. Bonington had very much been the leader and had not personally attempted to reach the summit. He was a good communicator and he had been able to attract sponsorship and maintain a group of highly proficient yet individualistic climbers as a coherent team. 590: 279:). However, no summit attempt had been made on routes up any of Everest's faces. Nepal again allowed entry to climbers in 1969 and the Southwest Face, the only face accessible from Nepal, was such an attractive objective that Japan immediately mounted a spring reconnaissance in that year and returned in the autumn with a larger party with several climbers reaching 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) on a line striking left from the central gully 2896: 589: 719:. They had succeeded in climbing the Southwest Face but the aim was also to reach the top of Everest along the Southeast Ridge. They wondered whether to bivouac and so they started digging out snow from a cave just below them but then they decided the lying snow was probably in better condition than it would be in the morning. So they set off up the Southeast Ridge, Haston led up the 711:. They were then briefly spotted at the top of the couloir, at 16:00 much later than expected, still moving upwards before it got dark. As dawn broke the next day they could be seen moving back to Camp 6. By this time the second party had already set off from Camp 5, not knowing whether the first party had reached the summit and whether they would have to perform a rescue mission. 731:
rubbing each other to try ward off the cold. To save weight Scott had left his down suit at the lower camp. Although partly hallucinating they knew they could not survive if they fell asleep. At first light they headed on down, reaching Camp 6 at 09:00 and radioing down their news. They had survived without getting frostbite. At the time the
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The storm had passed by 28 September and the third summit team were still at Camp 5. However, with powder avalanches coming down the face and with no hope of finding Burke, the expedition was called off. Those at Camp 5 waited for Boysen, Boardman and Pertemba and then accompanied them down to Camp 2
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Moving up to Camp 6 Burke had been climbing slowly and was very late in arriving. He was weighed down because was working as a cameraman for the BBC and his filming was very important for him as well as for the whole team. Bonington told Boysen that Burke should stay at Camp 6 next day but when Burke
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Progress had been so good that Bonington saw an opportunity to have three parties attempt the summit on successive days and he announced his selections on 21 September. The first would be Scott and Haston (as had been widely expected); the second would be Burke, Boardman, Boysen and Pertemba; and the
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In December 1973 Bonington heard that a team had withdrawn from its 1975 time slot. It was for post-monsoon so when he applied for the slot he was again intending to attempt his lightweight South Col—Southeast Ridge scheme. Permission was given in April 1974 when he, Haston and Scott were starting on
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Estcourt led on up the ramp to a comparatively safe stance where his oxygen ran out. He headed on where there were very slight holds and where the only piton placement was not at all solid. At last he reached a crack that could be used for a firm piton. This pitch was possibly the hardest ever done
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From Camp 2, Haston and Scott suggested a more direct climbing line up to the site of Camp 5 but in the end they agreed to stick to the previous plan since it was more sheltered from avalanches. A week was spent establishing Camp 2. Scott and Burke started climbing the Southwest Face on 6 September,
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had to be during the monsoon. Another attempt using the "Whillans Chimney" above Camp 6 would have meant establishing a seventh camp and so a route to the left of the Great Central Gully would be taken on the same line that the earliest Japanese climbers had tried. Camp 6 would be established on the
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Seizing an opportunity for an Everest expedition post-monsoon in 1972, Bonington originally planned a lightweight expedition by the normal route but the failure of a European pre-monsoon Southwest Face expedition earlier in that year encouraged him to attempt the Southwest Face instead. In very poor
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that was to include Bonington (as a team member) and Haston. While it was being planned, news came through that Haston had been killed in an avalanche while skiing in the Alps. The expedition went ahead and in fact Scott and Bonington became the first people to reach the summit. Estcourt was killed
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The weather deteriorated further as Boardman and Pertemba descended and the visibility was getting worse. To their astonishment they encountered Burke, sitting in the snow, only a few hundred metres from the summit and above the Hillary Step. They had been assuming he had rejoined Boysen at camp 6.
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Haston, Scott and Ang Phurba left Camp 5 next morning, followed slightly later by six climbers (including Bonington) and sherpas in support. Scott was impressed by the difficulty of the climb up the gully and he went on to lead while laying 76 metres (250 ft) more rope to the upper snowfield,
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Bonington decided not to make any further post-monsoon attempts but the next suitable slot was a long way in the future so, after learning that a British Army team was planning a pre-monsoon 1976 expedition, Bonington tried to persuade them to allow his team to be included. However, his suggestion
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down the Hillary Step, but by the South Summit, clouds were covering the sky and lightning was flickering so they prepared for the highest bivouac ever undertaken at that time. They dug out the cave further and settled for a cold night (Scott estimated −50 °C) without oxygen or heating fuel,
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described it as being like "spending the night in a sheet sleeping-bag in a deep freeze, with the oxygen cut by two-thirds". As well as being the first people to summit Everest by the Southwest Face, they were also the first Britons to reach the summit by any route. For the time, it had been the
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went on to reach the main summit on 17 October but on the descent his team all disappeared in a strong storm after their last radio contact with the base saying they were on the way to the South Col. Their bodies were never found. A South Korean expedition climbed the route in 1995. However, on
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On 18 September eight sherpas arrived at Camp 4 to carry more equipment up to Camp 5 and next day Bonington and Haston reconnoitred up towards the gully through the Rock Band. Then, on a radio call from Camp 5 Bonington announced that Haston and Scott would be the pair to make the first summit
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hours in blizzard conditions it was getting dark so at 16:30 the pair started to descend the couloir in the storm. They still had oxygen and they were fortunate to find the end of the fixed ropes in the dark. At 19:30 they only just managed to rejoin Boysen at Camp 6 with Boardman needing to
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expedition (which was to be another first ascent) and Haston and Scott were able to persuade Bonington to try the Southwest Face again, despite it having to be in the autumn. The scheme eventually turned into what has been described as "the apotheosis of the big, military-style expeditions".
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At dawn Scott and Haston had been above the fixed ropes and starting to climb the couloir to the South Summit when Haston's oxygen equipment failed. It had become blocked with ice but to clear the tube took over an hour. They fixed one of their ropes on a difficult section of the gully and
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Early in the morning of 20 September, Estcourt and Braithwaite left Camp 5 to take alternating leads up the Rock Band. Bonington and Burke waited until the sherpas brought more rope and then set off carrying up the rope that would be fixed in place ahead. They were climbing at 8,200 metres
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The post-monsoon Japanese expedition in autumn 1973 had attempted both the Southwest Face and the normal route. The face party had failed in much the same way as the British had the year before but the South Col team had managed what turned out to be a very significant achievement. In the
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either side of the face (and so possibly to be included in its scope) are the South Pillar and Central Pillar and these have been successfully used as climbing routes several times starting in 1980 and 1982 for the two routes respectively. In 1980 there was an ascent of Everest by a full
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24 tonnes of equipment left Britain in over 1000 crates and needed to pass through 22 customs posts. Relatively little climbing gear was needed because the climb would be largely non-technical and oxygen cylinders, climbing rope and lightweight ladders were the major requirements.
550:). From there on they travelled as two parties trekking separately. Despite the trek taking place during the monsoon, in the mornings the weather was fine but with afternoon rain. Estcourt and Haston went ahead to prepare a route on the Icefall. Bonington's party reached 795:, which became a best-seller and so the bank was able to recover its entire expenditure. The BBC produced a documentary film of the same name. With the publicity given to the expedition, Bonington, Haston and Scott became household names in Britain. Bonington was made a 753:
He asked them to return to the summit for him to photograph them but, seeing their reluctance, said he would go by himself to take some photographs and do some filming from the top. After agreeing to wait for him at the South Summit they separated. After a wait of over
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arriving by 23 August. It was at this stage that one of the porters went missing. He was a young boy who had been on the 1972 expedition and who Doug Scott in particular had taken under his wing. A search party found him dead in a stream just below Base Camp.
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for the part of the climb that posed the greatest threat. Scott and Haston reached the top of the Icefall on 26 August and identified a place for Camp 1 at the foot of the Western Cwm at a place where surrounding crevasses would swallow up any avalanches.
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and by that time no expedition had been able to reach the summit. Partly on account of the political situation in Tibet, Nepal started allowing climbers entry in 1950 although it closed its frontiers again in 1966. During the period 1950–1966 three
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and they approached him to see if the bank would provide sponsorship. Barclays not only agreed to provide the £100,000 requested but agreed to cover any overspend. This caused complaints from customers of the bank and a question was asked in
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half-drag Pertemba over the final distance. Mick Burke did not return. Boardman had frostbite in his feet, Pertemba was snowblind and Boysen got frostbitten hands clearing snow for the 30 hours they were trapped at Camp 6 by the storm.
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The plan was to attempt the route originally taken by the Japanese 1969 expedition, crossing the Rock Band via a deep gully to the left. Camps 4 and 5 would be sited at lower heights than tried previously so as to be more sheltered.
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Scottish Grade III is similar to Alpine AD and has been described as "More sustained and steeper routes, generally following gullies or buttress (ridge) lines. Two axes required to overcome short, steep technical sections of ice or
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in the following year (including Bonington and Haston). The public took notice and commercial sponsorship started to become a possibility for even more elaborate expeditions but with an ultimate aim of rock climbing. With all the
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Pertemba set up his own very successful trekking agency in 1985 and also in that year teamed up again with Bonington on a Norwegian-led expedition that led to Bonington reaching the summit of Everest for his first and only time.
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weather Bonington's expedition failed to reach the summit but the team gained a great deal of experience, in particular discovering that the line they had chosen above Camp 6 was not as favourable as they had anticipated.
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post-monsoon season they had reached the summit by climbing directly from the South Col without stopping overnight. By the time they had reached the summit they were out of oxygen but despite that, and having to
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Bonington's climbing career began when he was still in his teens and he was soon achieving technically difficult ascents in the Alps with several first ascents and, in 1962, the first ascent by a Briton of the
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The expedition considerably exceeded its planned expenditure – £130,000 rather than £100,000. Barclays, the sponsors, owned several media rights including those to the book Bonington was to publish,
1029:'s front page story on 2 June 1953 the first paragraph was "Glorious Coronation Day news! Everest – Everest the unconquerable – has been conquered. And conquered by men of British blood and breed". 599:
Icefall (centre) and Glacier descending from the Western Cwm, hidden behind Nuptse (right). Everest's summit and Southwest Face are above the cwm. Between and below the summit of Everest and the
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Two 16-tonne trucks, driven by Bob Stoodley (transport manager for the team) and three other drivers, left London on 9 April 1975 and the gear was driven to Kathmandu from where it was flown to
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British climbers reached the summit of Everest for the first time in an event that has been described as "the apotheosis of the big, military-style expeditions". Bonington's route was climbed
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After years of stagnation between the wars, British rock climbing underwent a renaissance, particularly with working-class climbing clubs starting up in the north of England and Scotland. The
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was later to remark "for a mountaineer, surely a Bonington Everest expedition is one of the last great Imperial experiences life can offer." Bonington and his agent knew a director of
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but the expedition did reach the summit by the South Col. The expedition was led by Michio Yuasa and it was the first time Everest had been climbed after the monsoon.
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attempt. It would take Haston two days to ascend from the foot of the face during which time Estcourt and Braithwaite would attempt to set fixed ropes up the gully.
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as the temperature rose sharply after the cold nights. It took three days for Haston and Scott to prospect a route to a suitable site for Camp 2 at the head of the
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The climbing route of the 1975 expedition. The upper part of the route without fixed ropes is dotted red and the route proposed by Haston and Scott is dashed red.
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A "ramp" in climbing is an ascending ledge across a rock face that may, as in this case, slope away from the face and have little by way of hand or foot holds.
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About sixty sherpas ferried supplies through the Icefall and up to the Southwest Face. It was necessary to prepare a route through shifting crevasses and
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Camp 1 was established on 28 August in a much shorter time than had been managed in 1972. Each afternoon avalanches swept down the flanks of Everest and
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lies the upper snowfield with the vertical cliffs of the Rock Band beneath it. The Great Central Gully is hidden until it descends to the lower right.
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fastest ever ascent of Everest, 33 days. The second summit team arrived at Camp 6 to find them safe and well and by afternoon Haston and Scott had
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is a triangular relatively flat part and an edge is the sharp part where two faces join. Often it is easier to climb an edge rather than a face.
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This photo was taken in November 2012 but photographs are available online showing the rather similar snow conditions during the expedition.
3265: 2378: 2487: 314:, the expedition reached 8,350 metres (27,400 ft) (attained by Haston and Whillans) on a new line leading to the right above Camp 5 3428: 2967: 703:
Using binoculars, the main party at Camp 2 were just able to see the two climbers on the upper snowfield before they disappeared into a
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Spring 1972 European expedition – Felix Kuen and Adolf Huber reached about 8,300 metres (27,200 ft) in an expedition led by
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to make a television documentary, all with their accompanying sherpas. A team of drivers was needed for transport to Kathmandu.
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Taking about three days, hundreds of locally hired porters carried 24 tonnes of equipment and 12 tonnes of food from Khunde to
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continued, alternated the lead. Eventually they reached the ridge at 15:00 and were able to see across Tibet and over to
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Autumn 1972 British expedition – on the Bonington-led expedition 8,300 metres (27,200 ft) was reached by Bonington,
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by its South Face which he realised was going to require siege tactics as well as rock climbing. What was to become the
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and several university climbing clubs were amongst those that engendered a highly competitive climbing environment. At
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The main team flew from London to Kathmandu from where in early August they travelled by road to Lamosanghu (near
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The South Pillar is also called the South Buttress and the Central Pillar is also called the Southwest Pillar.
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The route is still used for trekking – although there is now a road that penetrates as far to the east as
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magazine 23 July 2009 video of interview with Doug Scott (includes his commentary on 1975 expedition):
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33 days measured from leaving Base Camp to reaching the summit. In 1979 this time was improved by a
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Forty years after the ascent ten of the expedition's members took part in a reunion meeting at the
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Photographs are available online showing the rather similar snow conditions during the expedition.
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Autumn 1973 Japanese expedition – 8,300 metres (27,200 ft) was reached on the Southwest Face
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Two teams then climbed to the South Summit and followed the Southeast Ridge to the main summit –
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on 24 September 1975, who at the South Summit made the highest ever bivouac for that time, and
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lies the upper snowfield with the vertical cliffs of the Rock Band beneath it. (October 2005.)
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The team was based on the climbers in the 1970 Annapurna and 1972 Southwest Face expeditions.
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led the expedition that used rock climbing techniques to put fixed ropes up the face from the
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Spring 1970 Japanese expedition – the expedition climbed no higher than in the previous year
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The boys of Everest : Chris Bonington and the tragedy of climbing's greatest generation
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climbed by 1964, climbing in the Himalayas using rock climbing routes became an aspiration.
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when four climbers reached the South Summit in alpine style with no supplementary oxygen.
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The BBC documentary was produced by Ned Kelly and Chris Ralling and was narrated by
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overnight without food, drink or a tent, they had returned safely to the South Col.
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were led by their sirdar Phurkipa. There were further sherpas for general duties.
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In an era before personal computers, meticulous logistical planning was done on a
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On the Eiger climb Bonington and Burke were climbing journalist and cameraman.
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in Wales numerous routes of a very high standard were achieved using strictly
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Everest: the best writing and pictures from seventy years of human endeavour
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The climbing routes of the 1969–1973 expeditions (colours described in text)
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in the winter of 1966 (including Haston) and the televised climbing of the
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The Himalayas : playground of the gods: trekking, climbing, adventure
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Upper Southwest Face. Between and below the summit of Everest and the
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1988 Czechoslovak - New Zealand Mount Everest Southwest Face Expedition
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Two years later Scott was proposing a lightweight expedition to
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Richards, Ronnie; Stoodley, Bob. "Appendix 4, Transport". In
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Gillman, Peter, ed. (1993). "Everest – the Thirteen Routes".
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fell to his death shortly after he had also reached the top.
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On the Old Man of Hoy climb MacInnes was climbing cameraman.
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A lesson learned from the 1973 Japanese expedition (and the
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and it carries on further north to cross into China at the
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Bonington, Christian; Scott, Doug; Haston, Dougal (1976).
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on Bonington's 1982 Everest Northeast Ridge expedition.
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but eventually they reached a snow patch suitable for a
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MacInnes, Hamish. "Appendix 5, Equipment, Tentage". In
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Twenty-two years earlier the British press had treated
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at such an altitude. Estcourt described the climb as "
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High achiever: the life and climbs of Chris Bonington
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Assault box size: 3 ft 6 in x 3 ft 8 in x 6 ft 3 in.
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West Ridge expedition. Boardman died together with
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1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition
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Everest: The Ultimate book of the Ultimate Mountain
2330:"The first ascent of the Southwest Face of Everest" 16:
Himalayan ascent requiring rock climbing techniques
2548:Unjustifiable risk?: the story of British climbing 1008:Some of Scott's photographs are accessible online. 472:and Ang Phu as deputy. Twenty-six porters for the 424:'s computer firm and programmed by a professional 287:Previous summit attempts using the Southwest Face 2156:"Hunt on for Wigan adventurer's Everest remains" 1824: 1443: 1101: 307:, a party reached the summit via the South Col. 255:routes were pioneered to reach the summit – the 2162:. Wigan Observer. 27 April 2010. Archived from 2433:. Robinson: John Constable. pp. 149–162. 310:Spring 1971 International expedition – led by 2754: 8: 2681:(video). Trail magazine – via YouTube. 2678:Doug Scott on Surviving Everest and The Ogre 201:involved Haston as well as such climbers as 199:1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition 193:Bonington conceived of the idea of climbing 2590:. New York: Carroll & Graf Publishers. 799:and later went on to receive a knighthood. 112:Rock climbing in Britain after World War II 2761: 2747: 2739: 2377:Boardman, Peter; Richards, Ronnie (1976). 1653:"Climbing & Mountaineering Dictionary" 554:on 14 August after a two-week trek and at 248:occupied by the People's Republic of China 2538: 2529: 2496: 2417: 2379:"British Everest expedition SW face 1975" 2142: 1710:"Climbing Grades, Scottish Winter Grades" 1326: 2315: 2303: 2176: 2084: 2045: 2006: 1994: 1985:, p. 64 shows a photo of the front page. 1944: 1848: 1758: 1734: 1696: 1590: 1518: 1491: 1479: 1467: 1431: 1416: 1377: 1365: 1350: 1314: 1302: 1290: 1278: 1266: 1254: 1239: 1227: 1215: 1203: 1191: 1179: 1167: 1155: 1140: 1125: 1113: 124:, the Creagh Dhu Mountaineering Club in 2958:1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance 2291: 2118: 1982: 1972:from the original on 11 September 2014. 1712:. Elite Mountain Guides. Archived from 1091: 882: 281:(black—cyan route on the diagram below) 3023:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition 3018:Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb 2699:– 2005 radio programme by mountaineer 2362:from the original on 4 September 2016. 2253: 2241: 2229: 2217: 2187: 2185: 2130: 2103: 2069: 2057: 2033: 2021: 1932: 1860: 1836: 1809: 1794: 1782: 1770: 1746: 1684: 1638: 1626: 1614: 1602: 1578: 1566: 1554: 1542: 1503: 1455: 1404: 1392: 1338: 1042:(Germany) team on the South Col route. 726:In gathering darkness they descended, 529:Approach march, Kathmandu to Base Camp 1530: 398:1953 British Mount Everest expedition 29:obscures the view at the lower right. 7: 2653:from the original on 6 October 2014. 2490:from the original on 10 August 2017. 2416:Clarke. "Appendix 5, Equipment". In 1874:"In Pictures: Doug Scott on Everest" 826:The Southwest Face was climbed by a 744:Boardman, Boysen, Burke and Pertemba 674:the other three climbers up to him. 335:, MacInnes, Scott, Burke and Haston 37:was the first to successfully climb 3419:Expeditions from the United Kingdom 3189:Expedition Everest (roller coaster) 3042:Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty) 2614:The Everest Years: a climber's life 2340:from the original on 31 March 2019. 1651:Granowski, Damian (11 April 2014). 392:A management committee, chaired by 88:two days later. It is thought that 2933:1933 British aerial reconnaissance 2616:. London: Hodder & Stoughton. 542:Later stages of the approach march 485:reporter and four people from the 301:(black—cyan route on the diagram). 14: 2660:"Everest South-west Face Climbed" 2537:Thompson. "Appendix 7, Food". In 2328:Horrell, Mark (14 October 2015). 2266:Vranka, Milan (13 October 2013). 1914:from the original on 6 March 2016 1908:Witness: On this Day 24 September 1884:from the original on 6 March 2016 1663:from the original on 31 July 2016 967:it does not reach all the way to 871:List of Mount Everest expeditions 233:Climbing on Everest prior to 1975 3013:2007 Altitude Everest expedition 2894: 2401:. London: Hodder and Stoughton. 2352:"Everest climbers mark 40 years" 1051:Not found as of April 2010. 1025:as if they were British. In the 588: 534:Trek from Kathmandu to Base Camp 271:) and by a Chinese team via the 25:Mount Everest's Southwest Face. 3003:1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police 2703:with contributions by Bonington 2694:The British on Top of the World 1962:"Everest beaten – the hard way" 514:and then carried by porters to 168: 3434:Nepal–United Kingdom relations 3202:The Man Who Skied Down Everest 1904:"1975: The Everest apprentice" 1825:Boardman & Richards (1976) 1444:Richards & Stoodley (1976) 1102:Boardman & Richards (1976) 916:If a mountain is likened to a 574:Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm 350:Genesis of the 1975 expedition 1: 2993:1976 British–Nepalese SW Face 2193:"Everest the Hard Way (1975)" 857:in London, raising funds for 3388:List of Mount Everest guides 1317:, pp. 443–445, 448–449. 948:Sino-Nepal Friendship Bridge 850:route was achieved in 1983. 440:was to be deputy leader and 2927:Affair of the Dancing Lamas 2913:1921 British reconnaissance 2274:. pluska.sk. Archived from 406:Barclays Bank International 244:1921 British reconnaissance 178:. He made first ascents of 169:Bonington's path to Everest 99:over a decade later in the 3450: 3429:1975 in the United Kingdom 2691:Venables, Stephen (2005). 1910:. BBC. 24 September 1975. 855:Royal Geographical Society 811:on the 1978 Bonington-led 3414:Mount Everest expeditions 3178:Everest: Beyond the Limit 3093:Joint Himalayan Committee 2892: 2612:Bonington, Chris (1986). 2452:. Boston: Little, Brown. 2397:Bonington, Chris (1976). 2334:Footsteps on the Mountain 828:Slovak expedition in 1988 562:to receive his blessing. 2998:1979 Yugoslav West Ridge 2633:"Everest Southwest face" 2550:. Milnthorpe: Cicerone. 2546:Thompson, Simon (2010). 2306:, pp. 571, 576–577. 1557:, pp. 243, 246–247. 1218:, pp. 266–269, 594. 624:Ascent of Southwest Face 479:In addition there was a 462:Paul ("Tut") Braithwaite 326:(black—blue—green route) 316:(black—blue—brown route) 41:by ascending one of its 3228:The Conquest of Everest 3098:Mount Everest Committee 2640:American Alpine Journal 2565:Unsworth, Walt (1991). 2504:Ralling, Chris (1994). 150:North Face of the Eiger 3370:20th-century summiters 2584:Willis, Clint (2006). 2201:British Film Institute 859:Community Action Nepal 658: 645:Climbing the Rock Band 633: 543: 530: 296: 30: 2725:27.98000°N 86.91000°E 2358:. 23 September 2015. 2166:on 11 September 2014. 1960:(26 September 1975). 942:This road is now the 772:Clearing the mountain 652: 631: 541: 528: 378:1952 Swiss expedition 294: 24: 3320:Mount Everest massif 3208:Mount Everest webcam 2988:1975 British SW Face 2675:Scott, Doug (2009). 2658:Scott, Doug (1976). 2506:"Filming on Everest" 2425:Curran, Jim (1999). 2399:Everest the Hard Way 2318:, pp. 572, 581. 2009:, pp. 465, 604. 1997:, pp. 253, 299. 1716:on 11 September 2014 1581:, pp. 249, 251. 1329:, pp. 170, 196. 793:Everest the Hard Way 3365:Times to the summit 3140:The Epic of Everest 2721: /  2541:, pp. 213–218. 2532:, pp. 181–183. 2420:, pp. 184–197. 2256:, pp. 511–516. 2244:, pp. 466–504. 2220:, pp. 335–357. 2106:, pp. 278–279. 2072:, pp. 274–277. 2036:, pp. 272–273. 1935:, pp. 269–271. 1851:, pp. 452–453. 1839:, pp. 265–266. 1797:, pp. 267–268. 1785:, pp. 158–159. 1773:, pp. 262–265. 1749:, pp. 260–262. 1737:, pp. 451–452. 1699:, pp. 448–451. 1687:, pp. 256–259. 1641:, pp. 255–256. 1629:, pp. 251–253. 1617:, pp. 250–251. 1605:, pp. 249–250. 1569:, pp. 247–249. 1545:, pp. 244–245. 1533:, pp. 126–140. 1521:, pp. 448–449. 1506:, pp. 243–244. 1494:, pp. 197–200. 1470:, pp. 214–215. 1458:, pp. 184–197. 1434:, pp. 447–448. 1380:, pp. 443–445. 1353:, pp. 445–446. 1206:, pp. 585–593. 1194:, pp. 442–443. 1182:, pp. 436–442. 1158:, pp. 433–436. 1143:, pp. 189–260. 3242:Wings Over Everest 3165:(Indian TV series) 2730:27.98000; 86.91000 2468:Kohli, Mohan Singh 2427:"17. 'Big E' 1975" 707:leading up to the 680:Scottish Grade III 659: 634: 544: 531: 422:Ian McNaught Davis 420:computer owned by 396:(John Hunt of the 344:(black—blue route) 337:(black—blue route) 323:Karl Herrligkoffer 312:Norman Dyhrenfurth 297: 275:—Northeast Ridge ( 259:—Southeast Ridge ( 130:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu 57:to just below the 31: 3401: 3400: 3235:The Wildest Dream 3067:Hannelore Schmatz 2812:Kangshung Glacier 2664:Himalayan Journal 2597:978-0-78671-579-4 2569:. Grafton Books. 2207:on 24 April 2023. 781:Subsequent events 118:Rock and Ice Club 3441: 2898: 2878:Green Boots cave 2801:Hornbein Couloir 2763: 2756: 2749: 2740: 2736: 2735: 2733: 2732: 2731: 2726: 2722: 2719: 2718: 2717: 2714: 2701:Stephen Venables 2698: 2682: 2671: 2654: 2652: 2637: 2627: 2601: 2580: 2561: 2542: 2539:Bonington (1976) 2533: 2530:Bonington (1976) 2524: 2522: 2520: 2510: 2500: 2497:Bonington (1976) 2491: 2463: 2444: 2421: 2418:Bonington (1976) 2412: 2393: 2383: 2364: 2363: 2348: 2342: 2341: 2325: 2319: 2313: 2307: 2301: 2295: 2289: 2280: 2279: 2263: 2257: 2251: 2245: 2239: 2233: 2227: 2221: 2215: 2209: 2208: 2203:. Archived from 2189: 2180: 2174: 2168: 2167: 2152: 2146: 2143:Bonington (1976) 2140: 2134: 2128: 2122: 2116: 2107: 2101: 2088: 2082: 2073: 2067: 2061: 2055: 2049: 2043: 2037: 2031: 2025: 2019: 2010: 2004: 1998: 1992: 1986: 1980: 1974: 1973: 1954: 1948: 1942: 1936: 1930: 1924: 1923: 1921: 1919: 1900: 1894: 1893: 1891: 1889: 1870: 1864: 1858: 1852: 1846: 1840: 1834: 1828: 1822: 1813: 1807: 1798: 1792: 1786: 1780: 1774: 1768: 1762: 1756: 1750: 1744: 1738: 1732: 1726: 1725: 1723: 1721: 1706: 1700: 1694: 1688: 1682: 1673: 1672: 1670: 1668: 1648: 1642: 1636: 1630: 1624: 1618: 1612: 1606: 1600: 1594: 1588: 1582: 1576: 1570: 1564: 1558: 1552: 1546: 1540: 1534: 1528: 1522: 1516: 1507: 1501: 1495: 1489: 1483: 1477: 1471: 1465: 1459: 1453: 1447: 1441: 1435: 1429: 1420: 1414: 1408: 1402: 1396: 1390: 1381: 1375: 1369: 1363: 1354: 1348: 1342: 1336: 1330: 1327:Bonington (1976) 1324: 1318: 1312: 1306: 1300: 1294: 1288: 1282: 1276: 1270: 1264: 1258: 1252: 1243: 1237: 1231: 1225: 1219: 1213: 1207: 1201: 1195: 1189: 1183: 1177: 1171: 1165: 1159: 1153: 1144: 1138: 1129: 1123: 1117: 1111: 1105: 1099: 1074: 1071: 1065: 1058: 1052: 1049: 1043: 1036: 1030: 1015: 1009: 1006: 1000: 996: 990: 987: 981: 978: 972: 961: 955: 940: 934: 931: 925: 914: 908: 905: 899: 896: 890: 887: 840: 766: 765: 761: 758: 740:down to Camp 2. 695:Haston and Scott 592: 305:Saburo Matsukata 303:However, led by 265:Hornbein Couloir 176:Eiger's Nordwand 163:8000-metre peaks 3449: 3448: 3444: 3443: 3442: 3440: 3439: 3438: 3404: 3403: 3402: 3397: 3380:Mountain guides 3374: 3351: 3315: 3296:2015 avalanches 3247: 3117:Beyond the Edge 3102: 3081: 3027: 3008:2006 Philippine 2899: 2890: 2867:Three Pinnacles 2852:Rongbuk Glacier 2778: 2772: 2767: 2729: 2727: 2723: 2720: 2715: 2712: 2710: 2708: 2707: 2690: 2674: 2657: 2650: 2635: 2630: 2624: 2611: 2608: 2606:Further reading 2598: 2583: 2577: 2564: 2558: 2545: 2536: 2527: 2518: 2516: 2508: 2503: 2494: 2484: 2466: 2460: 2447: 2441: 2424: 2415: 2409: 2396: 2381: 2376: 2373: 2368: 2367: 2350: 2349: 2345: 2327: 2326: 2322: 2316:Unsworth (1991) 2314: 2310: 2304:Unsworth (1991) 2302: 2298: 2290: 2283: 2278:on 17 May 2016. 2265: 2264: 2260: 2252: 2248: 2240: 2236: 2228: 2224: 2216: 2212: 2191: 2190: 2183: 2177:Unsworth (1991) 2175: 2171: 2154: 2153: 2149: 2141: 2137: 2129: 2125: 2117: 2110: 2102: 2091: 2085:Unsworth (1991) 2083: 2076: 2068: 2064: 2056: 2052: 2046:Unsworth (1991) 2044: 2040: 2032: 2028: 2020: 2013: 2007:Unsworth (1991) 2005: 2001: 1995:Thompson (2010) 1993: 1989: 1981: 1977: 1956: 1955: 1951: 1945:Unsworth (1991) 1943: 1939: 1931: 1927: 1917: 1915: 1902: 1901: 1897: 1887: 1885: 1872: 1871: 1867: 1859: 1855: 1849:Unsworth (1991) 1847: 1843: 1835: 1831: 1823: 1816: 1808: 1801: 1793: 1789: 1781: 1777: 1769: 1765: 1759:Unsworth (1991) 1757: 1753: 1745: 1741: 1735:Unsworth (1991) 1733: 1729: 1719: 1717: 1708: 1707: 1703: 1697:Unsworth (1991) 1695: 1691: 1683: 1676: 1666: 1664: 1657:winterclimb.com 1650: 1649: 1645: 1637: 1633: 1625: 1621: 1613: 1609: 1601: 1597: 1591:Unsworth (1991) 1589: 1585: 1577: 1573: 1565: 1561: 1553: 1549: 1541: 1537: 1529: 1525: 1519:Unsworth (1991) 1517: 1510: 1502: 1498: 1492:MacInnes (1976) 1490: 1486: 1480:MacInnes (1976) 1478: 1474: 1468:Thompson (1976) 1466: 1462: 1454: 1450: 1442: 1438: 1432:Unsworth (1991) 1430: 1423: 1417:Unsworth (1991) 1415: 1411: 1403: 1399: 1391: 1384: 1378:Unsworth (1991) 1376: 1372: 1366:Thompson (2010) 1364: 1357: 1351:Unsworth (1991) 1349: 1345: 1337: 1333: 1325: 1321: 1315:Unsworth (1991) 1313: 1309: 1303:Thompson (2010) 1301: 1297: 1291:Unsworth (1991) 1289: 1285: 1279:Unsworth (1991) 1277: 1273: 1267:Unsworth (1991) 1265: 1261: 1255:Unsworth (1991) 1253: 1246: 1240:Unsworth (1991) 1238: 1234: 1228:Unsworth (1991) 1226: 1222: 1216:Unsworth (1991) 1214: 1210: 1204:Unsworth (1991) 1202: 1198: 1192:Unsworth (1991) 1190: 1186: 1180:Unsworth (1991) 1178: 1174: 1168:Unsworth (1991) 1166: 1162: 1156:Unsworth (1991) 1154: 1147: 1141:Thompson (2010) 1139: 1132: 1126:Thompson (2010) 1124: 1120: 1114:Thompson (2010) 1112: 1108: 1100: 1093: 1088: 1083: 1078: 1077: 1072: 1068: 1059: 1055: 1050: 1046: 1037: 1033: 1016: 1012: 1007: 1003: 997: 993: 988: 984: 979: 975: 962: 958: 944:Araniko Highway 941: 937: 932: 928: 915: 911: 906: 902: 897: 893: 888: 884: 879: 867: 834: 783: 774: 763: 759: 756: 754: 746: 697: 688: 686:Summit attempts 647: 626: 606: 605: 604: 598: 593: 576: 536: 508: 495: 438:Hamish MacInnes 434: 432:Expedition team 374: 352: 289: 277:1960 expedition 269:1963 expedition 261:1953 expedition 240: 235: 171: 138:Hamish MacInnes 114: 109: 67:Tut Braithwaite 51:Chris Bonington 17: 12: 11: 5: 3447: 3445: 3437: 3436: 3431: 3426: 3421: 3416: 3406: 3405: 3399: 3398: 3396: 3395: 3390: 3384: 3382: 3376: 3375: 3373: 3372: 3367: 3361: 3359: 3353: 3352: 3350: 3349: 3344: 3339: 3334: 3329: 3323: 3321: 3317: 3316: 3314: 3313: 3308: 3303: 3298: 3293: 3291:2014 avalanche 3288: 3283: 3278: 3273: 3268: 3266:1974 avalanche 3263: 3257: 3255: 3249: 3248: 3246: 3245: 3238: 3231: 3224: 3217: 3214:Paths of Glory 3210: 3205: 3198: 3191: 3186: 3181: 3174: 3167: 3159: 3151: 3143: 3136: 3128: 3120: 3112: 3110: 3104: 3103: 3101: 3100: 3095: 3089: 3087: 3083: 3082: 3080: 3079: 3074: 3069: 3064: 3062:George Mallory 3059: 3054: 3049: 3047:Peter Boardman 3044: 3038: 3036: 3029: 3028: 3026: 3025: 3020: 3015: 3010: 3005: 3000: 2995: 2990: 2985: 2980: 2975: 2970: 2965: 2960: 2955: 2950: 2945: 2940: 2935: 2930: 2920: 2915: 2909: 2907: 2901: 2900: 2893: 2891: 2889: 2888: 2883: 2882: 2881: 2869: 2864: 2859: 2854: 2849: 2847:Norton Couloir 2844: 2839: 2834: 2829: 2824: 2822:Khumbu Icefall 2819: 2817:Khumbu Glacier 2814: 2809: 2806:Kangshung Face 2803: 2798: 2793: 2788: 2782: 2780: 2774: 2773: 2768: 2766: 2765: 2758: 2751: 2743: 2705: 2704: 2688: 2672: 2655: 2646:(2): 345–358. 2628: 2622: 2607: 2604: 2603: 2602: 2596: 2581: 2575: 2562: 2556: 2543: 2534: 2525: 2513:Alpine Journal 2501: 2492: 2482: 2464: 2458: 2445: 2439: 2422: 2413: 2407: 2394: 2386:Alpine Journal 2372: 2369: 2366: 2365: 2343: 2320: 2308: 2296: 2292:Gillman (1993) 2281: 2258: 2246: 2234: 2232:, p. 422. 2222: 2210: 2181: 2179:, p. 445. 2169: 2147: 2145:, p. 161. 2135: 2133:, p. 279. 2123: 2119:Ralling (1994) 2108: 2089: 2087:, p. 457. 2074: 2062: 2060:, p. 274. 2050: 2048:, p. 455. 2038: 2026: 2024:, p. 159. 2011: 1999: 1987: 1983:Gillman (1993) 1975: 1949: 1947:, p. 454. 1937: 1925: 1895: 1865: 1863:, p. 158. 1853: 1841: 1829: 1814: 1812:, p. 272. 1799: 1787: 1775: 1763: 1761:, p. 452. 1751: 1739: 1727: 1701: 1689: 1674: 1643: 1631: 1619: 1607: 1595: 1593:, p. 449. 1583: 1571: 1559: 1547: 1535: 1523: 1508: 1496: 1484: 1482:, p. 200. 1472: 1460: 1448: 1446:, p. 181. 1436: 1421: 1419:, p. 447. 1409: 1407:, p. 153. 1397: 1395:, p. 243. 1382: 1370: 1368:, p. 300. 1355: 1343: 1341:, p. 242. 1331: 1319: 1307: 1305:, p. 302. 1295: 1293:, p. 443. 1283: 1281:, p. 442. 1271: 1269:, p. 563. 1259: 1257:, p. 562. 1244: 1242:, p. 561. 1232: 1230:, p. 560. 1220: 1208: 1196: 1184: 1172: 1170:, p. 434. 1160: 1145: 1130: 1128:, p. 231. 1118: 1116:, p. 246. 1106: 1090: 1089: 1087: 1084: 1082: 1079: 1076: 1075: 1066: 1053: 1044: 1031: 1027:News Chronicle 1010: 1001: 991: 982: 973: 956: 935: 926: 909: 900: 891: 881: 880: 878: 875: 874: 873: 866: 863: 848:Kangshung Face 782: 779: 773: 770: 745: 742: 696: 693: 687: 684: 668:deadman anchor 646: 643: 625: 622: 595: 594: 587: 586: 585: 575: 572: 535: 532: 512:Lukla Airstrip 507: 506:The expedition 504: 494: 491: 474:Khumbu Icefall 458:Peter Boardman 433: 430: 402:Peter Boardman 373: 370: 351: 348: 288: 285: 263:), West Ridge— 239: 238:Routes climbed 236: 234: 231: 229:was rejected. 170: 167: 154:Old Man of Hoy 113: 110: 108: 105: 82:Peter Boardman 45:. In the post- 15: 13: 10: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 3446: 3435: 3432: 3430: 3427: 3425: 3424:1975 in Nepal 3422: 3420: 3417: 3415: 3412: 3411: 3409: 3394: 3391: 3389: 3386: 3385: 3383: 3381: 3377: 3371: 3368: 3366: 3363: 3362: 3360: 3358: 3354: 3348: 3345: 3343: 3340: 3338: 3335: 3333: 3330: 3328: 3325: 3324: 3322: 3318: 3312: 3309: 3307: 3304: 3302: 3299: 3297: 3294: 3292: 3289: 3287: 3284: 3282: 3279: 3277: 3276:1996 disaster 3274: 3272: 3271:1988 disaster 3269: 3267: 3264: 3262: 3261:1970 disaster 3259: 3258: 3256: 3254: 3250: 3244: 3243: 3239: 3237: 3236: 3232: 3230: 3229: 3225: 3223: 3222: 3218: 3216: 3215: 3211: 3209: 3206: 3204: 3203: 3199: 3197: 3196: 3195:Into Thin Air 3192: 3190: 3187: 3185: 3182: 3180: 3179: 3175: 3173: 3172: 3168: 3166: 3164: 3160: 3158: 3156: 3152: 3150: 3148: 3144: 3142: 3141: 3137: 3135: 3133: 3129: 3127: 3125: 3121: 3119: 3118: 3114: 3113: 3111: 3109: 3105: 3099: 3096: 3094: 3091: 3090: 3088: 3084: 3078: 3075: 3073: 3070: 3068: 3065: 3063: 3060: 3058: 3055: 3053: 3050: 3048: 3045: 3043: 3040: 3039: 3037: 3035: 3030: 3024: 3021: 3019: 3016: 3014: 3011: 3009: 3006: 3004: 3001: 2999: 2996: 2994: 2991: 2989: 2986: 2984: 2983:1963 American 2981: 2979: 2976: 2974: 2971: 2969: 2966: 2964: 2961: 2959: 2956: 2954: 2951: 2949: 2946: 2944: 2941: 2939: 2936: 2934: 2931: 2928: 2924: 2921: 2919: 2916: 2914: 2911: 2910: 2908: 2906: 2902: 2897: 2887: 2884: 2879: 2875: 2874: 2873: 2870: 2868: 2865: 2863: 2860: 2858: 2855: 2853: 2850: 2848: 2845: 2843: 2840: 2838: 2835: 2833: 2830: 2828: 2825: 2823: 2820: 2818: 2815: 2813: 2810: 2807: 2804: 2802: 2799: 2797: 2794: 2792: 2789: 2787: 2784: 2783: 2781: 2779:and landmarks 2775: 2771: 2770:Mount Everest 2764: 2759: 2757: 2752: 2750: 2745: 2744: 2741: 2737: 2734: 2702: 2697:(audio). 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Index


Nuptse
Mount Everest
faces
monsoon
Chris Bonington
Western Cwm
South Summit
Nick Estcourt
Tut Braithwaite
Dougal Haston
Doug Scott
Peter Boardman
Pertemba
Mick Burke
alpine style
1988 Czechoslovak - New Zealand Mount Everest Southwest Face Expedition
Rock and Ice Club
Manchester
Glasgow
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
free climbing
Hamish MacInnes
Dougal Haston
North Face of the Eiger
Old Man of Hoy
Orkney
8000-metre peaks
Eiger's Nordwand
Annapurna II

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