Knowledge (XXG)

1996 Mount Everest disaster

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next morning, 12 May, after a storm had collapsed his tent overnight and the other survivors once again thought he had died. Krakauer discovered he was still conscious when the survivors in Camp IV prepared to evacuate. Despite his worsening condition, Weathers found he could still move mostly under his own power. A rescue team mobilized, hopeful of getting Weathers down the mountain alive. Over the next two days, Weathers was ushered down to Camp II with the assistance of eight healthy climbers from various expeditions, and was evacuated by a daring high-altitude helicopter rescue, one of the highest ever attempted. He survived and eventually recovered, but lost his nose, right hand, half his right forearm, and all the fingers on his left hand to frostbite.
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growing litter on Everest—many discarded bottles have accumulated on its slopes—and keep marginally qualified climbers off the mountain. He does point out, however, that climbing Everest has always been a highly dangerous endeavor, even before the guided tours, with one fatality for every four climbers who reach the summit. Furthermore, he notes that many of the poor decisions made on 10 May came after two or more days of inadequate oxygen, nourishment, and rest (due to the effects of entering the
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and brought Pittman, Fox, and Madsen to safety. Boukreev had prioritized Pittman, Fox, and Madsen (all of whom were from his Mountain Madness expedition) over Namba (from the Adventure Consultants expedition), who seemed close to death; he did not see Weathers (also from the Adventure Consultants expedition). All of the climbers then at Camp IV were exhausted and unable to reach Namba and Weathers.
248:(2011) that weather reports forecasting a major storm developing after 8 May and peaking in intensity on 11 May were delivered to expedition leaders. Hall and Fischer received these before their planned summit attempts on 10 May. Some of their teams summited Everest during an apparent break in this developing storm only to descend into the full force of it late on 10 May. 994:
that time. Additionally, a total of 84 climbers reached the summit that season, giving a fatality-to-summit ratio of 1 in 7—significantly less than the historical average of 1 in 4 prior to 1996. Accounting for the increased volume of climbers in 1996 compared with previous years, the fatality rates on Everest dropped considerably, meaning that 1996 was statistically a
1234: 1209: 1178: 655:, a private memorial service was held for Scott Fischer attended by the climbers and sherpas from Mountain Madness at Kiana Lodge, near Seattle Washington. The Sherpa chanted a Buddhist prayer, Beidleman gifted his late friend's engraved expedition knife to Fischer's two children, and Jeannie Price, Fischer's wife, released a cloud of butterflies. 842:, but was left there as requested by his wife, who said she thought he was "where he'd liked to have stayed". They did, however, bring her back his wedding band. The bodies of Doug Hansen and Andy Harris have never been found. Viesturs stated in the IMAX film that upon finding Hall's body, he sat down and cried beside his friend. 721: 797:(1997), state that using bottled oxygen gives a false sense of security. Krakauer and his supporters point out that, without bottled oxygen, Boukreev was unable to directly help his clients descend, and that Boukreev said that he was going down with client Martin Adams, but later descended faster and left Adams behind. 801:
Sherpa, was unable to descend below the Balcony (8,350 m or 27,400 ft) in the storm. Sherpas left Makalu Gau (at 8,230 m or 27,000 ft by Gau's account) with Fischer and Lopsang when Gau, too, became unable to proceed. Eventually, Lopsang was persuaded by Fischer to descend and leave him and Gau.
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but indicated that his frostbitten hands and feet were making it difficult to traverse the fixed ropes. Later in the afternoon, he radioed Base Camp, asking them to call his pregnant wife, Jan Arnold, on the satellite phone. During this last communication, they chose a name for their unborn child, he
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Near midnight, the blizzard cleared sufficiently for the team to see Camp IV, some 200 m (660 ft) away. Beidleman, Groom, Schoening, and Gammelgaard set off to find help. Madsen and Fox remained on the mountain with the group in order to shout for the rescuers. Boukreev located the climbers
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Climbing without supplemental oxygen, guide Anatoli Boukreev from the Mountain Madness team was the first to reach the summit (8,848 m or 29,029 ft), at 13:07. Many of the climbers had not yet reached the summit by 14:00, the last safe time to turn around to reach Camp IV before nightfall.
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Moore explains that these jet streaks can drag a huge draught of air up the side of the mountain, lowering the air pressure. He calculates that this typically reduces the partial pressure of oxygen in the air by about 6%, which translates to a 14% reduction in oxygen uptake for the climbers. Air at
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My particular physiology, my years of high-altitude climbing, my discipline, the commitment I make to proper acclimatization, and the knowledge I have of my own capacities have always made me comfortable with this choice. And, Scott Fischer was comfortable with that choice as well. He authorized me
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Also, Mr. Krakauer raised a question about my climbing without oxygen and suggested that perhaps my effectiveness was compromised by that decision. In the history of my career, as I have detailed above, it has been my practice to climb without supplementary oxygen. In my experience, it is safer for
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1996 is statistically curious as the fatality rates on Everest in the 1996 season were statistically lower than normal. The record number of 12 fatalities in the 1996 spring climbing season was 3% of the 398 climbers who had ascended above Base Camp—slightly below the historical average of 3.3% at
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Following the disaster, the use and non-use of supplementary oxygen was the focus of much discussion and analysis, with a guide and a sardar both criticized by Krakauer for not using supplementary oxygen while performing guide duties. This is in contrast with Krakauer’s views on only using bottled
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In the early morning of 11 May, at 04:43, Hall radioed Base Camp and said he was on the South Summit (8,749 m or 28,704 ft), confirming that he had survived the night. He reported that Harris had reached the two men, but Hansen, who had been with him since the previous afternoon, was now
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Hall radioed for help, saying that Hansen had fallen unconscious but was still alive. At 17:30, Adventure Consultants guide Andy Harris, carrying supplementary oxygen and water, began climbing alone from the South Summit (8,749 m or 28,704 ft) toward Hansen and Hall at the top of Hillary
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Boukreev began his descent to Camp IV at 14:30, having spent nearly 1.5 hours at or near the summit helping others complete the climb. By that time, Hall, Krakauer, Harris, Beidleman, Namba, and Mountain Madness clients Martin Adams and Klev Schoening had reached the summit, and the remaining four
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had been placed, and they were forced to wait an hour while the guides installed the ropes. Because some 33 climbers were attempting the summit on the same day, and Hall and Fischer had asked their climbers to stay within 150 m (500 ft) of each other, there was a bottleneck at the single
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had disappeared from sight, shrouded by a tall drift formed around his body. Andy Harris and Doug Hansen may lie near him, though we'll probably never know. Near the base of the Hillary Step we found the last vestige of the 1996 disasters, the body of Bruce Herrod, the photojournalist who'd been
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Jon Krakauer has suggested that the use of bottled oxygen and commercial guides, who personally accompanied and took care of all pathmaking, equipment, and important decisions, allowed otherwise unqualified climbers to attempt to summit, thereby leading to dangerous situations and more deaths. In
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Later in the day, however, Weathers regained consciousness and walked alone under his own power to the camp, surprising everyone there, though he was still suffering severe hypothermia and frostbite. Despite receiving oxygen and attempts to rewarm him, Weathers was practically abandoned again the
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Several climbers got lost on the South Col during the storm. Mountain Madness guide Beidleman and clients Klev Schoening, Fox, Madsen, Pittman, and Gammelgaard, along with Adventure Consultant guide Mike Groom and clients Beck Weathers and Yasuko Namba wandered in the blizzard until they could no
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Boukreev recorded that he reached Camp IV by 17:00. The reasons for Boukreev's decision to descend ahead of his clients are disputed. Boukreev maintained that he wanted to be ready to assist struggling clients farther down the slope, and to retrieve hot tea and extra oxygen if necessary. Krakauer
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The expeditions quickly encountered delays. The climbing Sherpas and guides had not set the fixed ropes by the time the team reached the Balcony (8,350 m or 27,400 ft), and this cost the climbers almost an hour. There is some question as to the cause of this failure, which cannot now be
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The Sherpas listed above were the climbing Sherpas hired by Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants. There were many other Sherpas working at lower elevations who performed duties vital to the Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness expeditions. Most climbing Sherpas' duties require them to ascend at
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The worsening weather began causing difficulties for the descending team members. The blizzard on the southwest face of Everest was reducing visibility, burying the fixed ropes, and obliterating the trail back to Camp IV that the teams had broken on the ascent. Fischer, helped by Lopsang Jangbu
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Krakauer also acknowledges that his own presence as a journalist for an important mountaineering magazine may have added pressure to guide clients to the summit despite the growing dangers. He proposed banning bottled oxygen except for emergency cases, arguing that this would both decrease the
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Pete Schoening had decided, while still at Base Camp (5,380 m or 17,650 ft), not to make the final push to the summit. The team began the assault on the summit on 6 May, bypassing Camp I (5,944 m or 19,501 ft) and stopping at Camp II (6,500 m or 21,300 ft) for two
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Meanwhile, Stuart Hutchison, a client on Hall's team who had turned around before the summit on 10 May, launched a second search for Weathers and Namba. He found both alive, but barely responsive and severely frostbitten, and in no condition to move. After consulting with Lopsang, he made the
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addition, he wrote that the competition between Hall and Fischer's guiding companies may have led to Hall's decision not to turn back on 10 May after the summiting deadline of 14:00. Though it's not clear whether the guides would have been effective had they stuck to the deadline.
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oxygen in emergencies stated above, and additionally both men gave detailed written explanations as to why they preferred not to use oxygen; both men did in fact carry a bottle on the summit day that could be used if needed in an emergency or extraordinary situation. In his book
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magazine for advertising space in exchange for a story about the growing popularity of commercial expeditions to Everest. Krakauer was originally slated to climb with Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness team, but Hall landed him, at least in part, by agreeing to reduce
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Bottlenecks at the Balcony and Hillary Step, which caused an hour-and-a-half delay in summiting. These delays were in themselves caused by delays in securing fixed ropes and the sheer number of people arriving at the bottlenecks at the same time (34 climbers on 10
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while attempting to descend from the summit. Over the entire season, 12 people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest season on Mount Everest at the time and the third deadliest after the 23 fatalities resulting from
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approaches, the events on the latter were more widely reported. Four members of the Adventure Consultants expedition died, including Hall, while Fischer was the sole casualty of the Mountain Madness expedition. Three officers of the
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Step. Krakauer's account notes that by this time, the weather had deteriorated into a full-scale blizzard: "Snow pellets borne on 70 mph  winds stung my face." Boukreev gives 18:00 as "the onset of a blizzard".
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did not have a company-issued radio, but did have a "small yellow" radio that was owned by Sandy Pittman. Rob Hall's team also had an issue with a radio during a discussion over oxygen bottles that caused confusion.
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magazine that an analysis of the weather conditions on 11 May suggested that atmospheric oxygen levels fell by an additional 6% as a result of the storm, resulting in a further 14% reduction in oxygen uptake.
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To this I would add: As a precautionary measure, in the event that some extraordinary demand was placed upon me on summit day, I was carrying one (1) bottle of supplementary oxygen, a mask, and a regulator.
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reassured her that he was reasonably comfortable, and told her, "Sleep well, my sweetheart. Please don't worry too much." Shortly thereafter, he froze to death in his sleep. His body was found on 23 May by
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The following is a list of the other fatalities during the spring 1996 climbing season on Everest. These deaths were not directly related to the storm or the events of 10–11 May 1996 Everest disaster.
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It's very difficult to turn someone around high on the mountain. If a client sees that the summit is close and they're dead-set on getting there, they're going to laugh in your face and keep going.
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25 May – Bruce Herrod – photojournalist with a South African team, was on the South Col during the 10–11 May storm and reached the summit two weeks later, but died descending the Southeast Ridge
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The expedition leaders did not realize that the blizzard, which hit in full force on May 11, would be preceded by increasing snow throughout the afternoon and evening hours of May 10.
2459:"Except for Scott's body, still wrapped with a pack and rope the way Anatoli had left him, the summit slopes were mercifully free of the tragedy. When we reached the South Summit, 1294:
25 September – Yves Bouchon – French climber, died in an avalanche at 7,800 m (25,600 ft) on the southeast route below Camp IV, along with the two Sherpas listed below
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Mountain Madness clients had arrived. After this time, Krakauer noted that the weather did not look so benign. At 15:00, snow started to fall, and the light was diminishing.
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The following is a list of climbers en route to the summit on 10 May 1996 via the South Col and Southeast Ridge, organized by expedition and role. All ages are as of 1996.
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fixed line at the Hillary Step. Hutchison, Kasischke, and Taske returned towards Camp IV as they feared they would run out of supplementary oxygen due to the delays.
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The Sherpas listed above were the climbing Sherpas hired by Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness expedition. Ngawang Topche was hospitalized in April; he had developed
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me, once acclimatized, to climb without oxygen in order to avoid the sudden loss of acclimatization that occurs when supplementary oxygen supplies are depleted.
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before rescuing Gau. Boukreev made a subsequent rescue attempt but found Fischer's frozen body at around 19:00. Like Weathers, Gau was evacuated by helicopter.
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least as high as Camp III or IV, but not all of them summit. The expedition leaders intend for only a select few of their climbing Sherpas to summit. Legendary
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sharply criticized Boukreev's decision not to use bottled oxygen while employed as a guide. Boukreev's supporters, who include G. Weston DeWalt, co-author of
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In addition to the members of the Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness teams, Mike Trueman, who coordinated the rescue from Base Camp, contributed
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A rivalry between Hall and Fischer, who were both incentivized to get their clients to the summit, leading them to ignore the aforementioned forecasts
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The climbing Sherpas located Fischer and Gau on 11 May, but Fischer's condition had deteriorated so much that they were only able to give
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Doug Hansen (46) – had previously attempted Everest with Hall's team in 1995; disappeared near the South Summit while descending with Hall
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survivors at Camp IV nor evacuated in time; the other survivors soon agreed that leaving Weathers and Namba behind was the only choice.
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s fee for Krakauer's spot on the expedition to less than cost. As a result, Hall was paying out-of-pocket to have Krakauer on his team.
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Scott Fischer did not summit until 15:45. He was exhausted from the ascent and becoming increasingly ill, possibly suffering from
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Unexpectedly severe oxygen deprivation sickness compromising both climbers' and guides' ability to make decisions or help others.
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Insufficient stores of oxygen, forcing guides and rescue teams to carry bottles up to stranded climbers as the storm approached.
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Shortly after midnight on 10 May 1996, the Adventure Consultants expedition began a summit attempt from Camp IV, atop the
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A day to die for : 1996 : Everest's worst disaster : one survivor's personal journey to uncover the truth
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Tim Madsen (33) – had climbed extensively in the Colorado and Canadian Rockies, but had no 8,000 m experience
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The team leaders' decisions to exceed the normal turnaround time of 14:00, with many summiting after 14:30.
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Klev Schoening (38) – Pete's nephew and a former US national downhill ski racer; no 8,000 m experience
3648: 3643: 3437: 3086: 2971: 1051: 732:(7,900 m or 25,900 ft). They were joined by six client climbers, three guides, and Sherpas from 466: 285: 1367:'s account of the events that unfolded on the mountain. It is also in part a response to Krakauer's book. 782:, or a combination of both. Others, including Doug Hansen and Makalu Gau, reached the summit even later. 542:
Dale Kruse (45) – long-term personal friend of Fischer's and the first to sign up for the 1996 expedition
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magazine; an accomplished technical climber, but had no experience in climbing peaks over 8,000 m
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was scheduled to accompany the Adventure Consultants group but withdrew due to family commitments.
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Stuart Hutchison (34) – youngest client on Hall's team; previous 8,000 m experiences included
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With the exception of Namba, none of the clients on Hall's team had ever reached the summit of an
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6 June – Ngawang Topche Sherpa – Nepali Sherpa for Mountain Madness, developed a severe case of
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There were several issues and problems with radios and their use on summit day. Scott Fischer's
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on the Mountain Madness expedition involved in the May 1996 Everest disaster; died in avalanche
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9 May – Chen Yu-Nan (陳玉男) – from the Taiwanese National Expedition, died after a fall down the
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In May 2004, Kent Moore, a physicist, and John L. Semple, a surgeon, both researchers from the
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John Taske (56) – oldest climber on the Adventure Consultants team; no 8,000 m experience
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The previous day (9 May), Taiwanese team member Chen Yu-Nan had died following a fall on the
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Frank Fischbeck (53) – had attempted Everest three times and reached the South Summit in 1994
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guide to help contact base camp while the other teams' radios were not sufficiently strong
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A Day to Die for : 1996 : Everest's worst disaster : the untold true story
231:(2000). In 2014, Lou Kasischke, also of Hall's expedition, published his own account in 3604: 3395: 3286: 3271: 3071: 3046: 3041: 3030: 2918: 2802: 2772: 1998: 1225: 1222: 1169: 810: 704: 557: 471: 233: 2291:"High Winds Suck Oxygen from Everest: Predicting Pressure Lows Could Protect Climbers" 244:(2015). Graham Ratcliffe, who climbed to the South Col of Everest on 10 May, noted in 3632: 3617: 3419: 2994: 2881: 2844: 2767: 2616: 1599: 1573: 1450: 1342: 1152: 1137: 1074: 937: 736:'s Mountain Madness company, as well as an expedition sponsored by the government of 733: 552: 527: 462: 458: 446: 356: 327: 216: 201: 170: 138: 50: 2679: 1714: 223:, of Fischer's expedition, wrote about their experiences in their respective books, 157:
Numerous climbers were at a high altitude on Everest during the storm including the
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describes encountering some of the bodies upon climbing Everest again in May 1997.
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The following fatalities occurred on Everest during the fall 1996 climbing season.
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The Website for the 2008 PBS Frontline television show titled Storm Over Everest.
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that altitude already contains only one third as much oxygen as sea-level air.
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On 9 June 1996, three days after Sherpa Ngawang Topche died in hospital from
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19 May – Reinhard Wlasich – Austrian climber, died from a combination of
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longer walk, huddling some 20 m (66 ft) from a drop-off of the
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PBS Storm over Everest : Roundtable : The Ethics of Climbing
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The sudden illness of two climbers at or near the summit after 15:00.
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Following the disaster, several survivors wrote memoirs. Journalist
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Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy
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Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy
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Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy
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Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster
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25 September – Dawa Sherpa – Nepalese Sherpa; died in avalanche
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The disaster was caused by a combination of events, including:
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on 22 April while working above Base Camp; died in June in a
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1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition to Mount Everest
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1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition to Mount Everest
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After the Wind: 1996 Everest Tragedy, One Survivor's Story
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magazine and on the Adventure Consultants team, published
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PBS Frontline: 'Storm Over Everest' – washingtonpost.com
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Unknown; presumed as falling during descent near summit
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at 8,300 m (27,200 ft) on the Northeast Ridge
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GlaxoSmithKline: On top of the world – Acclimatisation
1887: 1885: 1650: 1648: 1355:, tells the story of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. 3603: 3580: 3544: 3476: 3331: 3310: 3256: 3128: 3001: 2935: 2873: 2832: 2750: 2432:"Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa killed in Everest avalanche" 1856:"Anatoli Boukreev's response to Krakauer's article" 1668:"Apa Sherpa Full Biography - Apa Sherpa Foundation" 272:, consisted of 19 people, including eight clients. 115: 97: 58: 46: 38: 1749: 1747: 1531:"Climbing Veterans Call Everest Deaths Inevitable" 667:led a five-member team to Everest on 10 May 1996. 323:west ridge in 1992, and Everest north side in 1994 2171: 2169: 1552: 1550: 1548: 1546: 1544: 724:Map of Mount Everest, South Col, and Hillary Step 2690:Climber Recounts Tragedy in 'Storm Over Everest' 1345:: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster 2695:Ken Kamler: Medical miracle on Everest – TEDMED 1478:List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest 961: 911: 622:he contracted during hauling duties to Camp II) 449:, consisted of 19 people, including 8 clients. 2017: 2015: 2013: 1493:List of people who died climbing Mount Everest 2979: 2728: 2316:Boukreev, Anatoli; DeWalt, G. Weston (2002). 846:decision that they could not be saved by the 744:resolved as the expedition leaders perished. 618:Ngawang Topche (died a few months later from 8: 326:Lou Kasischke (53) – had climbed six of the 242:The Storms: Adventure and Tragedy on Everest 21: 2211: 2209: 2207: 2205: 1850: 1848: 1846: 1604:Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest 1455:Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest 225:Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest 2986: 2972: 2964: 2735: 2721: 2713: 2664:: CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( 1819: 1817: 1815: 27: 20: 2112:"Bodies to come down in Everest clean-up" 2515:Baumgarten, Marjorie (14 October 2014). 2388: 2376: 2364: 2340: 2250: 2238: 2226: 2215: 2160: 2148: 2136: 1876: 1753: 1738: 1654: 1556: 1005: 461:(40) – lead climbing guide; died on the 284:(35) – expedition leader; died near the 3183:1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance 1503: 968:to climb without supplementary oxygen. 928:above 8,000 m or 26,000 ft). 516:all 53 of the 14,000 ft (4,267 m) peaks 3248:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition 3243:Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb 2657: 2497: 2487: 2480:. Movies & TV Dept. Archived from 2318:The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest 2180:. Edinburgh: Mainstream. p. 328. 1575:The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest 1488:List of media related to Mount Everest 1396:and broadcast on the US PBS-TV series 212:The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest 129:occurred on 10–11 May 1996 when eight 54:Altitude 8,849 metres (29,032 ft) 1910:"Salon Wanderlust | Coming down" 1425:The events inspired the feature film 1390:Remnants of Everest: The 1996 Tragedy 1301:– Nepalese Sherpa, the same climbing 640:nights. However, Kruse suffered from 465:350 m (1,150 ft) below the 335:(42) – journalist on assignment from 7: 1766:Conant, Jennet (22 September 2015). 570:saving the lives of six team members 3414:Expedition Everest (roller coaster) 3267:Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty) 1827:. Outsideonline.com. Archived from 1483:List of deaths on eight-thousanders 989:The 1996 season after this disaster 688:Half of the climbing team from the 3158:1933 British aerial reconnaissance 268:' 1996 Everest expedition, led by 205:(1997) which became a bestseller. 173:. While climbers died on both the 14: 2408:. 14 October 1996. Archived from 2264:"The Day the Sky Fell on Everest" 838:and fellow mountaineers from the 560:(68) – one of the first to climb 3238:2007 Altitude Everest expedition 3119: 2854:Tsewang Samanla and Dorje Morup 2822: 2816: 2320:. Pan Books. pp. 217, 218. 1512:"Mount Everest Nepal Earthquake" 1402:), is a documentary by director 1232: 1207: 1176: 1145: 1116: 1090: 1067: 1034: 497:Martin Adams (47) – had climbed 445:1996 Everest expedition, led by 3228:1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police 2889:Into Thin Air: Death on Everest 2477:Into Thin Air: Death on Everest 2088:. 29 March 2012. Archived from 1467:(first published June 9, 1999). 1333:Into Thin Air: Death on Everest 707:) died on the Northeast Ridge. 695:expedition from India (Subedar 474:(36) – professional outdoorsman 3427:The Man Who Skied Down Everest 2744:Mount Everest disaster of 1996 1347:(1997). The film, directed by 1192:Northeast Ridge, 8,600 m 1161:Southeast Ridge, 8,300 m 873:Ineffectiveness of leadership 551:(41) – had climbed six of the 482:David A. Sowles Memorial Award 1: 3218:1976 British–Nepalese SW Face 2545:Frontline: Storm Over Everest 2464:with the South African team." 1916:. 10 May 1996. Archived from 1602:; Stephen G. Michaud (2000). 1392:(2007; released in the US as 829:By 09:00, Hall had fixed his 653:high-altitude pulmonary edema 634:high-altitude pulmonary edema 150:and the 16 fatalities of the 3664:History of Nepal (1951–2008) 3613:List of Mount Everest guides 2840:Andy Harris (mountain guide) 2289:Peplow, Mark (25 May 2004). 2046:"Gau's account and pictures" 1529:Dahlburg, John-Thor (1996). 646:high-altitude cerebral edema 219:, of Hall's expedition, and 152:2014 Mount Everest avalanche 3152:Affair of the Dancing Lamas 3138:1921 British reconnaissance 2548:. PBS. 2007. Archived from 1572:; G. Weston Dewalt (1997). 1384:National Geographic Channel 1189:Indo-Tibetan Border Police 568:; known for singlehandedly 319:winter expedition in 1988, 148:April 2015 Nepal earthquake 127:1996 Mount Everest disaster 33:The summit of Mount Everest 22:1996 Mount Everest disaster 3690: 3659:Natural disasters in Nepal 2640:Ratcliffe, Graham (2013). 2353:List of Everest Fatalities 2176:Ratcliffe, Graham (2011). 2048:. Classic.mountainzone.com 1406:), with music composed by 1140:(Guide/Expedition leader) 1085:(Guide/Expedition leader) 716:Delays reaching the summit 690:Indo-Tibetan Border Police 681: 678:Indo-Tibetan Border Police 572:during a mass fall in the 184:Indo-Tibetan Border Police 110:Indo-Tibetan Border Police 3403:Everest: Beyond the Limit 3318:Joint Himalayan Committee 3117: 2814: 1627:Gammelgard, Lene (2000). 1578:. New York: St. Martins. 1191: 1188: 1102: 1056: 1049: 1046: 882:The unwillingness of the 26: 3654:Mountaineering disasters 3223:1979 Yugoslav West Ridge 2798:Sandy Hill (mountaineer) 2700:24 February 2014 at the 2116:www.theaustralian.com.au 1380:The Dark Side of Everest 1249:Other fatalities in 1996 3674:1996 disasters in Nepal 3669:May 1996 events in Asia 3453:The Conquest of Everest 3323:Mount Everest Committee 2793:Michael Groom (climber) 2270:(2449): 15. 29 May 2004 2163:, pp. 342–344, 368 1672:apasherpafoundation.org 1631:. New York: Perennial. 463:Southeast ridge balcony 16:Death of eight climbers 3639:1996 disasters in Asia 3595:20th-century summiters 2474:Jonathan Crow (2008). 1897:Statement by Ang Dorje 1711:americanalpineclub.org 1696:Boukreev; Dewalt p. 12 1447:and premiered in 2015. 1422:, 2012 TV documentary. 1047:Adventure Consultants 1027:Andrew "Harold" Harris 973: 921: 725: 2943:Adventure Consultants 2788:Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa 2564:"Into the Death Zone" 1606:. New York: Villard. 1415:Seconds from Disaster 1299:Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa 1062:Doug Hansen (Client) 933:University of Toronto 786:Descent in a blizzard 723: 703:, and Head Constable 599:Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa 266:Adventure Consultants 260:Adventure Consultants 193:, on assignment from 159:Adventure Consultants 102:Adventure Consultants 82:27.98806°N 86.92500°E 3545:Mount Everest massif 3433:Mount Everest webcam 3213:1975 British SW Face 2552:on 10 December 2015. 2522:The Austin Chronicle 2027:3 March 2000 at the 1831:on 19 September 2010 1717:on 27 September 2015 998:-than-average year. 946:Supplementary oxygen 884:South African team's 659:Taiwanese expedition 486:American Alpine Club 3590:Times to the summit 3365:The Epic of Everest 2484:on 13 October 2008. 2449:Breashears, David. 2004:25 May 2009 at the 1879:, pp. 241–242. 1858:. Outsideonline.com 1741:, pp. 108–114. 1419:Into the Death Zone 1314:In the epilogue to 574:American expedition 514:(38) – had climbed 78: /  23: 3467:Wings Over Everest 3390:(Indian TV series) 2590:on 2 February 2017 2391:, pp. 108–114 2355:AdventureStats.com 2151:, pp. 322–324 2068:Storm Over Everest 2022:Coming Down page 3 1893:Storm Over Everest 1678:on 17 October 2016 1516:The New York Times 1394:Storm over Everest 1132:, c. 7,900 m 1018:Location of death 1002:List of fatalities 747:Upon reaching the 726: 549:Sandy Hill Pittman 87:27.98806; 86.92500 3626: 3625: 3460:The Wildest Dream 3292:Hannelore Schmatz 3037:Kangshung Glacier 2961: 2960: 2861: 2651:978-1-78057-641-1 2632:978-0-385-49208-9 2327:978-0-330-48896-9 1974:outsideonline.com 1944:outsideonline.com 1657:, pp. xv–xvi 1638:978-0-330-39227-3 1613:978-0-375-50404-4 1585:978-0-312-96533-4 1570:Boukreev, Anatoli 1535:Los Angeles Times 1246: 1245: 1158:Mountain Madness 642:altitude sickness 123: 122: 3681: 3123: 3103:Green Boots cave 3026:Hornbein Couloir 2988: 2981: 2974: 2965: 2948:Mountain Madness 2896:The Climb (book) 2855: 2826: 2820: 2783:Anatoli Boukreev 2778:Lene Gammelgaard 2758:Ang Dorje Sherpa 2737: 2730: 2723: 2714: 2669: 2663: 2655: 2636: 2600: 2599: 2597: 2595: 2586:. 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Edinburgh. 2643: 2638: 2634: 2628: 2624: 2620: 2619: 2614: 2613:Krakauer, Jon 2610: 2609: 2605: 2589: 2585: 2579: 2576: 2571: 2570: 2565: 2559: 2556: 2551: 2547: 2546: 2539: 2536: 2524: 2523: 2518: 2511: 2508: 2503: 2491: 2483: 2479: 2478: 2470: 2467: 2462: 2456: 2455:High Exposure 2452: 2445: 2442: 2437: 2436:Mountain Zone 2433: 2427: 2424: 2411: 2407: 2403: 2397: 2394: 2390: 2389:Krakauer 1997 2385: 2382: 2379:, p. 276 2378: 2377:Krakauer 1997 2373: 2370: 2367:, p. 155 2366: 2365:Krakauer 1997 2361: 2358: 2354: 2349: 2346: 2343:, p. 274 2342: 2341:Krakauer 1997 2337: 2334: 2329: 2323: 2319: 2312: 2309: 2305: 2292: 2285: 2282: 2269: 2268:New Scientist 2265: 2259: 2256: 2253:, p. 354 2252: 2251:Krakauer 1997 2247: 2244: 2241:, p. 238 2240: 2239:Krakauer 1997 2235: 2232: 2228: 2227:Krakauer 1997 2223: 2220: 2217: 2216:Krakauer 1997 2212: 2210: 2208: 2206: 2202: 2197: 2193: 2189: 2187:9781845966386 2183: 2179: 2172: 2170: 2166: 2162: 2161:Krakauer 1997 2157: 2154: 2150: 2149:Krakauer 1997 2145: 2142: 2138: 2137:Krakauer 1997 2133: 2130: 2117: 2113: 2107: 2104: 2091: 2087: 2083: 2077: 2074: 2069: 2063: 2060: 2047: 2041: 2038: 2034: 2030: 2026: 2023: 2018: 2016: 2014: 2010: 2007: 2003: 2000: 1995: 1992: 1979: 1975: 1971: 1965: 1962: 1949: 1945: 1941: 1935: 1932: 1919: 1915: 1911: 1905: 1902: 1898: 1894: 1888: 1886: 1882: 1878: 1877:Krakauer 1997 1873: 1870: 1857: 1851: 1849: 1847: 1843: 1830: 1826: 1820: 1818: 1816: 1812: 1800:. 13 May 1996 1799: 1795: 1789: 1786: 1773: 1769: 1762: 1759: 1756:, p. 180 1755: 1754:Krakauer 1997 1750: 1748: 1744: 1740: 1739:Krakauer 1997 1735: 1733: 1729: 1716: 1712: 1708: 1702: 1699: 1693: 1690: 1677: 1673: 1669: 1663: 1660: 1656: 1655:Krakauer 1997 1651: 1649: 1645: 1640: 1634: 1630: 1623: 1620: 1615: 1609: 1605: 1601: 1595: 1592: 1587: 1581: 1577: 1576: 1571: 1565: 1562: 1559:, p. 296 1558: 1557:Krakauer 1997 1553: 1551: 1549: 1547: 1545: 1541: 1536: 1532: 1525: 1522: 1517: 1513: 1507: 1504: 1498: 1494: 1491: 1489: 1486: 1484: 1481: 1479: 1476: 1475: 1471: 1466: 1462: 1459: 1456: 1452: 1451:Beck Weathers 1449: 1446: 1442: 1441: 1436: 1433: 1430: 1429: 1424: 1421: 1420: 1416: 1412: 1409: 1405: 1401: 1400: 1395: 1391: 1388: 1385: 1381: 1378: 1375: 1374: 1369: 1366: 1362: 1361: 1357: 1354: 1350: 1346: 1344: 1343:Into Thin Air 1339: 1335: 1334: 1330: 1329: 1325: 1323: 1321: 1317: 1316:High Exposure 1309: 1306: 1305: 1300: 1296: 1293: 1292: 1291: 1285: 1281: 1277: 1274: 1271: 1267: 1263: 1260: 1256: 1255: 1254: 1248: 1241: 1229: 1227: 1224: 1221: 1220: 1216: 1204: 1202: 1199: 1196: 1195: 1185: 1173: 1171: 1168: 1165: 1164: 1160: 1157: 1154: 1153:United States 1142: 1139: 1138:Scott Fischer 1136: 1135: 1131: 1128: 1125: 1113: 1110: 1107: 1106: 1099: 1087: 1084: 1081: 1080: 1076: 1075:United States 1064: 1061: 1060: 1053: 1043: 1031: 1028: 1025: 1024: 1020: 1017: 1014: 1011: 1008: 1007: 1001: 999: 997: 988: 986: 983: 975: 972: 969: 965: 960: 958: 954: 945: 943: 940: 939: 938:New Scientist 934: 929: 927: 914: 910: 903: 900: 897: 894: 890: 885: 881: 878: 875: 874: 872: 871: 870: 864: 862: 860: 855: 851: 849: 843: 841: 837: 832: 827: 820: 818: 814: 812: 806: 802: 798: 796: 795: 785: 783: 781: 777: 772: 770: 765: 761: 757: 754: 750: 745: 741: 739: 735: 734:Scott Fischer 731: 722: 715: 710: 708: 706: 702: 699:, Lance Naik 698: 694: 691: 685: 677: 675: 673: 668: 666: 658: 656: 654: 649: 647: 644:and possible 643: 637: 635: 627: 624: 621: 617: 615:Ngawang Tendi 614: 611: 609: 606: 603: 600: 597: 596: 592: 591: 587: 582: 579: 575: 571: 567: 563: 559: 556: 554: 553:Seven Summits 550: 547: 544: 541: 538: 535: 533: 529: 528:Gasherbrum II 525: 524:8,000 m peaks 521: 517: 513: 512:Charlotte Fox 510: 508: 504: 500: 496: 495: 491: 487: 483: 479: 476: 473: 470: 468: 464: 460: 459:Scott Fischer 457: 456: 452: 450: 448: 447:Scott Fischer 444: 436: 434: 429: 424: 420: 415: 413: 410: 409: 400: 397: 394: 392:Ngawang Norbu 391: 389:Lhakpa Chhiri 388: 385: 382: 379: 376: 373: 372: 368: 367: 363: 358: 357:Beck Weathers 355: 352: 350: 346: 343: 340: 339: 334: 331: 329: 328:Seven Summits 325: 322: 318: 314: 311: 308: 307: 303: 298: 295: 292: 291:Michael Groom 289: 287: 283: 280: 279: 275: 273: 271: 267: 259: 257: 251: 249: 247: 243: 238: 236: 235: 230: 226: 222: 218: 217:Beck Weathers 214: 213: 208: 204: 203: 202:Into Thin Air 198: 197: 192: 187: 185: 180: 176: 172: 171:Scott Fischer 169:team, led by 168: 164: 161:team, led by 160: 155: 153: 149: 145: 140: 139:Mount Everest 136: 132: 128: 118: 114: 111: 107: 103: 100: 96: 91: 63: 61: 57: 52: 51:Mount Everest 49: 45: 41: 37: 30: 25: 19: 3500: 3465: 3458: 3451: 3445: 3438: 3425: 3418: 3401: 3394: 3387: 3379: 3371: 3363: 3356: 3348: 3340: 3282:Sandy Irvine 3203:1960 Chinese 3198:1953 British 3188:1951 British 3178:1938 British 3173:1936 British 3168:1935 British 3163:1933 British 3148:1924 British 3143:1922 British 3087:South Summit 3021:Hillary Step 2924: 2917: 2910: 2902: 2894: 2887: 2880: 2865:Yasuko Namba 2763:Jon Krakauer 2743: 2641: 2617: 2606:Bibliography 2592:. Retrieved 2588:the original 2578: 2567: 2558: 2550:the original 2544: 2538: 2526:. Retrieved 2520: 2510: 2482:the original 2476: 2469: 2454: 2444: 2435: 2426: 2414:. Retrieved 2410:the original 2405: 2396: 2384: 2372: 2360: 2348: 2336: 2317: 2311: 2302: 2295:. Retrieved 2284: 2272:. Retrieved 2267: 2258: 2246: 2234: 2222: 2177: 2156: 2144: 2132: 2120:. Retrieved 2115: 2106: 2094:. Retrieved 2090:the original 2085: 2076: 2067: 2062: 2050:. Retrieved 2040: 2032: 1994: 1984:27 September 1982:. Retrieved 1978:the original 1973: 1964: 1954:27 September 1952:. Retrieved 1948:the original 1943: 1934: 1922:. Retrieved 1918:the original 1913: 1904: 1896: 1892: 1872: 1860:. Retrieved 1833:. Retrieved 1829:the original 1802:. Retrieved 1797: 1788: 1776:. Retrieved 1774:. Condé Nast 1771: 1761: 1721:27 September 1719:. Retrieved 1715:the original 1710: 1701: 1692: 1680:. Retrieved 1676:the original 1671: 1662: 1628: 1622: 1603: 1594: 1574: 1564: 1534: 1524: 1515: 1506: 1464: 1454: 1445:Dallas Opera 1438: 1427: 1413: 1408:Jocelyn Pook 1397: 1393: 1389: 1379: 1372: 1358: 1341: 1338:Jon Krakauer 1331: 1326:In the media 1315: 1313: 1302: 1289: 1252: 1109:Yasuko Namba 1052:South Summit 1012:Nationality 995: 992: 981: 979: 970: 966: 962: 956: 952: 949: 936: 930: 922: 912: 907: 868: 856: 852: 844: 828: 824: 815: 807: 803: 799: 792: 789: 773: 766: 762: 758: 749:Hillary Step 746: 742: 727: 687: 669: 662: 650: 638: 631: 608:Nawang Dorje 593: 566:Mount Vinson 562:Gasherbrum I 467:South Summit 440: 427: 422: 416: 406: 403: 369: 345:Yasuko Namba 336: 333:Jon Krakauer 286:South Summit 263: 255: 245: 241: 239: 232: 228: 224: 210: 200: 194: 191:Jon Krakauer 188: 156: 133:caught in a 126: 124: 98:Organised by 18: 3396:Everest '82 3382:(2015 film) 3374:(1998 film) 3359:(2007 film) 3297:David Sharp 3277:Green Boots 3130:Expeditions 3111:Western Cwm 3097:Three Steps 3033:(East Face) 3016:Geneva Spur 2936:Expeditions 2913:(2015 film) 2905:(1998 film) 2858:Green Boots 2528:19 November 2498:|work= 2416:24 February 2297:11 December 2274:11 December 2035:1998 August 1804:14 November 1772:Vanity Fair 1435:Joby Talbot 1201:Dorje Morup 1098:New Zealand 1042:New Zealand 1015:Expedition 836:Ed Viesturs 831:oxygen mask 701:Dorje Morup 665:Gau Ming-Ho 604:"Big" Pemba 507:Kilimanjaro 297:Andy Harris 227:(2000) and 186:also died. 85: / 60:Coordinates 3633:Categories 3409:EverestMax 3311:Committees 3302:Joe Tasker 3259:fatalities 3193:1952 Swiss 3067:North Face 3002:Topography 2808:Makalu Gau 2594:27 January 2451:"Epilogue" 2052:5 December 1924:5 December 1862:5 December 1835:5 December 1682:13 October 1499:References 1198:Lance Naik 959:magazine: 926:death zone 918:Guy Cotter 753:fixed line 412:Apa Sherpa 321:Broad Peak 175:North Face 165:, and the 144:avalanches 73:86°55′30″E 70:27°59′17″N 3552:Khumbutse 3357:The Climb 3349:The Climb 3082:South Col 3062:North Col 3052:Lhakpa La 3011:Base Camp 2751:Survivors 2660:cite book 2623:Doubleday 2517:"Everest" 2500:ignored ( 2490:cite book 2196:671466084 2086:Adventure 2033:salon.com 1914:Salon.com 1437:'s opera 1399:Frontline 1360:The Climb 1284:Kathmandu 1130:South Col 1111:(Client) 1103:Exposure 953:The Climb 794:The Climb 730:South Col 693:North Col 663:"Makalu" 499:Aconcagua 375:Ang Dorje 349:South Col 179:South Col 3562:Lingtren 3333:In media 3257:Notable 2850:Rob Hall 2698:Archived 2615:(1997). 2122:5 August 2096:5 August 2025:Archived 2002:Archived 1472:See also 1463:'s book 1382:(2003), 1340:'s book 1286:hospital 1083:Rob Hall 1029:(Guide) 916:—  865:Analysis 711:Timeline 522:and two 520:Colorado 282:Rob Hall 270:Rob Hall 252:Climbers 215:(1997). 163:Rob Hall 137:died on 135:blizzard 131:climbers 47:Location 3618:Sherpas 3582:Records 3388:Everest 3380:Everest 3372:Everest 2911:Everest 2903:Everest 2402:"Video" 2070:. 1998. 1778:25 July 1457:(2000). 1453:' book 1440:Everest 1431:(2015). 1428:Everest 1373:Everest 1167:Subedar 957:Outside 935:, told 848:hypoxic 767:Hall's 588:Sherpas 580:in 1953 532:Cho Oyu 492:Clients 484:by the 428:Outside 423:Outside 399:Lopsang 395:Tenzing 383:Chuldum 364:Sherpas 338:Outside 304:Clients 196:Outside 3572:Pumori 3567:Nuptse 3557:Lhotse 3351:(book) 3057:Lho La 2648:  2629:  2324:  2194:  2184:  1635:  1610:  1582:  1304:Sardar 1259:Lhotse 1237:  1212:  1181:  1150:  1121:  1095:  1072:  1039:  982:sardar 976:Radios 821:11 May 769:Sirdar 738:Taiwan 674:Face. 672:Lhotse 595:Sardar 505:, and 503:Denali 453:Guides 408:Sardar 371:Sardar 276:Guides 116:Deaths 3478:Years 2874:Media 1240:India 1215:India 1184:India 1124:Japan 1050:near 1009:Name 996:safer 892:May). 628:Tendi 431:' 380:Arita 3536:2018 3531:2017 3526:2016 3511:2013 3506:2012 3446:Peak 2833:Dead 2666:link 2646:ISBN 2627:ISBN 2596:2017 2569:IMDb 2530:2014 2502:help 2418:2011 2322:ISBN 2299:2006 2276:2006 2192:OCLC 2182:ISBN 2124:2021 2098:2021 2054:2010 1986:2015 1956:2015 1926:2010 1864:2010 1837:2010 1806:2015 1780:2021 1723:2015 1684:2016 1633:ISBN 1608:ISBN 1580:ISBN 1280:HAPE 1270:HACE 1268:and 1266:HAPE 1261:Face 780:HACE 776:HAPE 620:HAPE 601:(23) 564:and 539:(35) 530:and 441:The 386:Kami 377:(26) 293:(37) 264:The 177:and 125:The 39:Date 2461:Rob 2406:CNN 1798:CNN 1363:is 576:on 518:in 3635:: 2662:}} 2658:{{ 2625:. 2621:. 2566:. 2519:. 2494:: 2492:}} 2488:{{ 2453:. 2434:. 2404:. 2301:. 2266:. 2204:^ 2190:. 2168:^ 2114:. 2084:. 2012:^ 1972:. 1942:. 1912:. 1895:. 1884:^ 1845:^ 1814:^ 1796:. 1770:. 1746:^ 1731:^ 1709:. 1670:. 1647:^ 1543:^ 1533:. 1514:. 1417:- 1318:, 813:. 778:, 740:. 578:K2 526:, 501:, 317:K2 237:. 3154:) 3150:( 3105:" 3101:" 2987:e 2980:t 2973:v 2860:) 2856:( 2736:e 2729:t 2722:v 2668:) 2654:. 2635:. 2598:. 2572:. 2532:. 2504:) 2457:. 2438:. 2420:. 2330:. 2278:. 2198:. 2126:. 2100:. 2056:. 1988:. 1958:. 1928:. 1866:. 1839:. 1808:. 1782:. 1725:. 1686:. 1641:. 1616:. 1588:. 1537:. 1410:. 119:8

Index


Mount Everest
Coordinates
27°59′17″N 86°55′30″E / 27.98806°N 86.92500°E / 27.98806; 86.92500
Adventure Consultants
Mountain Madness
Indo-Tibetan Border Police
climbers
blizzard
Mount Everest
avalanches
April 2015 Nepal earthquake
2014 Mount Everest avalanche
Adventure Consultants
Rob Hall
Mountain Madness
Scott Fischer
North Face
South Col
Indo-Tibetan Border Police
Jon Krakauer
Outside
Into Thin Air
Anatoli Boukreev
The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
Beck Weathers
Lene Gammelgaard
After the Wind: 1996 Everest Tragedy, One Survivor's Story
Adventure Consultants
Rob Hall

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