510:
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40:
505:
The mountain is often climbed as a traverse from the
Feliksjoch (West), to the Lisjoch (East) or vice versa. The traverse consists mostly of a narrow, snow-covered ridge, with some scrambling over rocks. In good conditions, this route is fairly easy and objectively safe, however in bad snow
489:
the guide was too tired. Young, who was very disappointed, convinced him to go back by the
Lisjoch before descending to Zermatt, implying a second traverse on the Lyskamm. Young even wanted to continue back to the Nordend but his guide refused to prolong the journey.
464:
The first attempt to climb the imposing north-east face was made in 1880 by the brothers
Kalbermatten. They were carried down to the glacier by an avalanche but they survived the accident. On 9 August 1890, L. Norman-Neruda with guides
469:
and J. Reinstadler were the first to reach the summit (Lyskamm East) by the north face, by what is now known as the "Norman-Neruda route". The first winter ascent of this route was made on 11 March 1956 by C. Fosson and O. Frachey.
429:
The eastern and higher of the two peaks is 4,532 m, and was first ascended in 1861 from the
Lisjoch up the east ridge by a 14-man team (seven Englishmen, one Scotsman, and six Swiss guides) led by J. F. Hardy and including
1199:
308:
434:. Others in the party included A. C. Ramsey, F. Sibson, T. Rennison, J. A. Hudson, C. H. Pilkington and R. M. Stephenson. The guides were Franz Josef Lochmatter (1825-1897) of
1204:
1151:
1194:
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1184:
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1179:
509:
506:
conditions and/or bad visibility, the ridge can be challenging because of large, sometimes double, cornices, mainly on the southern side of the ridge.
1250:
1230:
114:
1623:
1189:
1225:
737:
485:. They started from Riffelalp at midnight and finished the traverse of the Monte Rosa massif at midday. But after the traverse of the Lyskamm and
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343:. It consists of a five-kilometre-long ridge with two distinct peaks. The mountain has gained a reputation for seriousness because of the many
1608:
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556:
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is only 107 metres higher). But visually
Lyskamm is a huge massif, composed of two summits: the Eastern Lyskamm and the lower
1588:
1240:
1245:
354:
1598:
107:
1270:
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730:
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The northern side of the mountain is an impressive 1,100 metres (3,600 ft) ice-covered wall, rising up from the
1541:
190:
1275:
1265:
398:, separated by a 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) long ridge, both lying on the border between the Swiss canton of
498:
The normal route starts from the
Lisjoch, which can be accessed from the Gnifetti Hut (3,650 m) or from the
474:
723:
79:
65:
386:
Despite a prominence of well over 300 metres, Lyskamm is sometimes considered to be part of the extended
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1038:
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1067:
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984:
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and his guide traversed the whole ridge two times. Young wanted to traverse the ridge from the
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908:
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The ridge as a whole (as well as the western summit) was first traversed three years later by
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1103:
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in the canton Valais, J.-P. Cachet, K. Kerr, S. Zumtaugwald, P. and J.-M. Perren.
403:
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237:
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lying on the ridge and the frequent avalanches, thus leading to its nickname the
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709:
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328:
502:(2,883 m). The route follows the route taken by the first ascensionist.
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968:
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478:
414:
17:
413:. The gentler southern side rises only a few hundred metres above the
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223:
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715:
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719:
592:. The nearest point of higher elevation is west of the
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topographic maps. The key col is the
Lisjoch (4,153 m).
297:
Basic glacier/snow climb/scrambling along exposed ridge
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323:, literally "crest of the Lys"), also known as
366:Lyskamm from the Pyramide Vincent summer 2017
1145:
731:
8:
526:(1870) "The fatal accident on the Lyskamm",
154:
445:Lyskamm above the Grenzgletscher (English:
358:Lyskamm from the Glacier du Lys summer 2017
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1169:
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716:
71:
29:
658:
656:
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568:
513:View from the Lyskamm Nase (south side)
331:(4,532 m (14,869 ft)) in the
631:Swindin, Les; Flemming, Peter (1999).
402:(north) and the Italian region of the
7:
267:Swiss Federal Office of Topography
686:, London: Alpine Club, 1975, p. 92
662:Helmut Dumler,Willi P. Burkhardt,
25:
1614:International mountains of Europe
1561:
1549:
710:Italian route account from south
635:. The Alpine Club. p. 150.
633:Valais Alps East:Selected Climbs
541:
327:(literally "silver bast"), is a
196:
189:
38:
1624:Four-thousanders of Switzerland
557:List of Alpine four-thousanders
197:
1200:Accessible by public transport
1180:Major summits (most prominent)
1:
60:4,532 m (14,869 ft)
335:lying on the border between
27:Mountain in the Pennine Alps
285:J. F. Hardy and party, 1861
1640:
97:
44:North-east side of Lyskamm
1594:Mountains of Aosta Valley
700:Lyskamm on Peakbagger.com
446:
183:
37:
1619:Mountains of Switzerland
1609:Italy–Switzerland border
1160:Mountains of Switzerland
1584:Alpine four-thousanders
475:Geoffrey Winthrop Young
96:3 km (1.9 mi)
514:
450:
383:
367:
359:
316:
155:
1589:Mountains of the Alps
1210:Canton highest points
705:Lyskamm on SummitPost
512:
444:
378:
365:
357:
684:Pennine Alps Central
457:, Edward N. Buxton,
210:Location in the Alps
130:45.92250°N 7.83556°E
1599:Mountains of Valais
712:- Czech and English
682:Collomb, Robin G.,
575:Retrieved from the
432:William Edward Hall
390:group (in fact the
171:English translation
126: /
1403:Gross Fiescherhorn
1205:Named after people
1056:Monte Rosa Glacier
1049:Zwillingsgletscher
1034:Breithorngletscher
1007:Tiefmatten Glacier
995:Schonbielgletscher
985:Matterhorn Glacier
889:TĂŞte de Valpelline
664:Les 4000 des Alpes
515:
461:and Franz Biener.
451:
417:of the same name:
384:
368:
360:
351:("people eater").
50:Highest point
1537:
1536:
1533:
1532:
1289:Notable mountains
1284:
1283:
1127:
1126:
1073:Hohlichtgletscher
1039:Schwärzegletscher
784:
467:Christian Klucker
301:
300:
135:45.92250; 7.83556
16:(Redirected from
1631:
1566:
1565:
1564:
1554:
1553:
1552:
1545:
1293:
1170:
1154:
1147:
1140:
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1104:Klein Matterhorn
1068:Mellichgletscher
1029:Triftjigletscher
1000:Stockjigletscher
764:
740:
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717:
687:
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628:
622:
621:
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425:Climbing history
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1427:Ultra-prominent
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1158:
1128:
1123:
1087:
1024:Theodul Glacier
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690:
681:
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588:Retrieved from
587:
583:
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570:
565:
547:
540:
537:
520:
496:
494:Climbing routes
427:
396:Western Lyskamm
381:Western Lyskamm
373:
349:Menschenfresser
307:
291:
249:
215:
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28:
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1495:Finsteraarhorn
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1434:Finsteraarhorn
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1428:
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1423:
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1420:
1415:
1410:
1405:
1400:
1395:
1393:Ober Gabelhorn
1390:
1385:
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1365:
1360:
1355:
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1338:Finsteraarhorn
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1114:Trockener Steg
1111:
1106:
1101:
1095:
1093:
1089:
1088:
1086:
1085:
1080:
1075:
1070:
1065:
1063:Findel Glacier
1060:
1059:
1058:
1053:
1052:
1051:
1044:Grenzgletscher
1041:
1036:
1031:
1026:
1019:Gorner Glacier
1016:
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1002:
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874:Ober Gabelhorn
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694:External links
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642:978-0900523625
641:
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611:www.zermatt.ch
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559:
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536:
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532:
531:
528:Alpine Journal
519:
516:
500:Monte Rosa Hut
495:
492:
459:Jakob Anderegg
455:Leslie Stephen
447:Border Glacier
426:
423:
411:Grenzgletscher
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369:
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101:Zumsteinspitze
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1515:Rheinwaldhorn
1513:
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1506:
1503:
1501:
1498:
1496:
1493:
1491:
1488:
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1480:
1478:Most-isolated
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1454:Dents du Midi
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1368:Dent d'HĂ©rens
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1353:Rimpfischhorn
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1321:
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1298:
1296:Major 4000ers
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1195:Most isolated
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1177:
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1037:
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1032:
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1027:
1025:
1022:
1021:
1020:
1017:
1015:
1014:Furgg Glacier
1012:
1008:
1005:
1001:
998:
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996:
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992:
991:
990:Zmutt Glacier
988:
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967:
965:
962:
960:
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935:
934:Rimpfischhorn
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930:
927:
925:
922:
920:
917:
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912:
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907:
905:
902:
900:
897:
895:
894:Dent d'HĂ©rens
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790:
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748:
747:Matter Valley
741:
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729:
727:
722:
721:
718:
711:
708:
706:
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685:
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672:2-7003-1305-4
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393:
389:
382:
379:Lyskamm from
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356:
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350:
346:
342:
338:
334:
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326:
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318:
314:
310:
305:
296:
294:
292:Easiest route
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284:
282:
278:
273:
270:
266:
264:
260:
257:
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252:
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243:
239:
236:
234:Region/Canton
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69:
67:
63:
59:
57:
53:
48:
41:
36:
31:
19:
1604:Pennine Alps
1520:Le Chasseron
1464:Grand Combin
1343:Zinalrothorn
1333:Grand Combin
1328:Dent Blanche
1312:
1185:Above 3000 m
1173:Country-wide
1109:Unterrothorn
1083:Ried Glacier
1078:Bisgletscher
884:TĂŞte Blanche
879:Dent Blanche
869:Zinalrothorn
683:
678:
663:
632:
626:
614:. Retrieved
610:
601:
594:Dufourspitze
590:Google Earth
584:
571:
527:
518:Bibliography
504:
497:
472:
463:
452:
428:
419:Lysgletscher
408:
404:Aosta Valley
392:Dufourspitze
385:
348:
333:Pennine Alps
324:
320:
303:
302:
281:First ascent
256:Pennine Alps
250:Parent range
238:Aosta Valley
1568:Switzerland
1525:Schesaplana
1510:Mont Tendre
1485:Piz Bernina
1439:Piz Bernina
1398:Piz Bernina
1388:Schreckhorn
1358:Aletschhorn
939:Allalinhorn
854:Brunegghorn
799:St. Niklaus
754:Settlements
549:Alps portal
436:St. Niklaus
337:Switzerland
319:, formerly
228:Switzerland
151:Native name
133: /
108:Coordinates
80:Parent peak
1578:Categories
1490:Monte Rosa
1444:Monte Rosa
1418:Lagginhorn
1363:Strahlhorn
1323:Matterhorn
1303:Monte Rosa
1256:St. Gallen
1236:GraubĂĽnden
1119:Schwarzsee
1099:Gornergrat
959:Lenzspitze
929:Strahlhorn
924:Monte Rosa
899:Matterhorn
804:Herbriggen
563:References
530:, 5: 23–32
524:W. E. Hall
388:Monte Rosa
325:Silberbast
118:45°55′21″N
85:Monte Rosa
70:379 m
66:Prominence
1556:Mountains
1500:Chasseral
1469:Piz Kesch
1413:Weissmies
1373:Breithorn
1318:Weisshorn
1241:Nidwalden
1219:By canton
964:Nadelhorn
949:Täschhorn
904:Breithorn
864:Weisshorn
842:Mountains
818:Gasenried
774:Riffelalp
607:"Liskamm"
577:Swisstopo
483:Breithorn
473:In 1907,
406:(south).
371:Geography
309:‹See Tfd›
269:swisstopo
220:Countries
179:Geography
174:Lys Ridge
121:7°50′08″E
92:Isolation
56:Elevation
1408:GrĂĽnhorn
1378:Jungfrau
1348:Alphubel
1246:Obwalden
978:Glaciers
944:Alphubel
849:Barrhorn
809:Mattsand
535:See also
345:cornices
329:mountain
275:Climbing
263:Topo map
1542:Portals
1313:Lyskamm
1190:Highest
1092:Tourism
969:Balfrin
919:Liskamm
859:Bishorn
823:Grächen
778:Zum See
770:Findeln
761:Zermatt
616:6 March
481:to the
479:Nordend
415:glacier
321:Lyskamm
317:Liskamm
304:Lyskamm
204:Lyskamm
156:Liskamm
98:→
74:Lisjoch
72:↓
33:Lyskamm
18:Liskamm
1449:Säntis
1271:Valais
1261:Ticino
1251:Schwyz
1231:Glarus
914:Castor
909:Pollux
833:Törbel
670:
639:
487:Castor
400:Valais
313:German
242:Valais
163:German
159:
146:Naming
1383:Mönch
1166:Lists
794:Randa
789:Täsch
782:Zmutt
341:Italy
224:Italy
1505:Tödi
1459:Tödi
1276:Vaud
1226:Bern
828:Embd
766:Ried
668:ISBN
637:ISBN
618:2016
339:and
240:and
226:and
1308:Dom
1266:Uri
954:Dom
1580::
780:,
776:,
772:,
768:,
666:,
651:^
609:.
421:.
315::
1544::
1153:e
1146:t
1139:v
785:)
763:(
739:e
732:t
725:v
645:.
620:.
596:.
449:)
306:(
165:)
161:(
20:)
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