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The mountain is often climbed as a traverse from the
Feliksjoch (West), to the Lisjoch (East) or vice versa. The traverse consists mostly of a narrow, snow-covered ridge, with some scrambling over rocks. In good conditions, this route is fairly easy and objectively safe, however in bad snow
478:
the guide was too tired. Young, who was very disappointed, convinced him to go back by the
Lisjoch before descending to Zermatt, implying a second traverse on the Lyskamm. Young even wanted to continue back to the Nordend but his guide refused to prolong the journey.
453:
The first attempt to climb the imposing north-east face was made in 1880 by the brothers
Kalbermatten. They were carried down to the glacier by an avalanche but they survived the accident. On 9 August 1890, L. Norman-Neruda with guides
458:
and J. Reinstadler were the first to reach the summit (Lyskamm East) by the north face, by what is now known as the "Norman-Neruda route". The first winter ascent of this route was made on 11 March 1956 by C. Fosson and O. Frachey.
418:
The eastern and higher of the two peaks is 4,532 m, and was first ascended in 1861 from the
Lisjoch up the east ridge by a 14-man team (seven Englishmen, one Scotsman, and six Swiss guides) led by J. F. Hardy and including
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297:
423:. Others in the party included A. C. Ramsey, F. Sibson, T. Rennison, J. A. Hudson, C. H. Pilkington and R. M. Stephenson. The guides were Franz Josef Lochmatter (1825-1897) of
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conditions and/or bad visibility, the ridge can be challenging because of large, sometimes double, cornices, mainly on the southern side of the ridge.
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474:. They started from Riffelalp at midnight and finished the traverse of the Monte Rosa massif at midday. But after the traverse of the Lyskamm and
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332:. It consists of a five-kilometre-long ridge with two distinct peaks. The mountain has gained a reputation for seriousness because of the many
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is only 107 metres higher). But visually
Lyskamm is a huge massif, composed of two summits: the Eastern Lyskamm and the lower
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The northern side of the mountain is an impressive 1,100 metres (3,600 ft) ice-covered wall, rising up from the
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387:, separated by a 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) long ridge, both lying on the border between the Swiss canton of
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The normal route starts from the
Lisjoch, which can be accessed from the Gnifetti Hut (3,650 m) or from the
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Despite a prominence of well over 300 metres, Lyskamm is sometimes considered to be part of the extended
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and his guide traversed the whole ridge two times. Young wanted to traverse the ridge from the
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The ridge as a whole (as well as the western summit) was first traversed three years later by
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in the canton Valais, J.-P. Cachet, K. Kerr, S. Zumtaugwald, P. and J.-M. Perren.
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lying on the ridge and the frequent avalanches, thus leading to its nickname the
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491:(2,883 m). The route follows the route taken by the first ascensionist.
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402:. The gentler southern side rises only a few hundred metres above the
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581:. The nearest point of higher elevation is west of the
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topographic maps. The key col is the
Lisjoch (4,153 m).
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Basic glacier/snow climb/scrambling along exposed ridge
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312:, literally "crest of the Lys"), also known as
355:Lyskamm from the Pyramide Vincent summer 2017
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720:
8:
515:(1870) "The fatal accident on the Lyskamm",
143:
434:Lyskamm above the Grenzgletscher (English:
347:Lyskamm from the Glacier du Lys summer 2017
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60:
18:
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502:View from the Lyskamm Nase (south side)
320:(4,532 m (14,869 ft)) in the
620:Swindin, Les; Flemming, Peter (1999).
391:(north) and the Italian region of the
7:
256:Swiss Federal Office of Topography
675:, London: Alpine Club, 1975, p. 92
651:Helmut Dumler,Willi P. Burkhardt,
14:
1603:International mountains of Europe
1550:
1538:
699:Italian route account from south
624:. The Alpine Club. p. 150.
622:Valais Alps East:Selected Climbs
530:
316:(literally "silver bast"), is a
185:
178:
27:
1613:Four-thousanders of Switzerland
546:List of Alpine four-thousanders
186:
1189:Accessible by public transport
1169:Major summits (most prominent)
1:
49:4,532 m (14,869 ft)
324:lying on the border between
16:Mountain in the Pennine Alps
274:J. F. Hardy and party, 1861
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86:
33:North-east side of Lyskamm
1583:Mountains of Aosta Valley
689:Lyskamm on Peakbagger.com
435:
172:
26:
1608:Mountains of Switzerland
1598:Italy–Switzerland border
1149:Mountains of Switzerland
1573:Alpine four-thousanders
464:Geoffrey Winthrop Young
85:3 km (1.9 mi)
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439:
372:
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1578:Mountains of the Alps
1199:Canton highest points
694:Lyskamm on SummitPost
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367:
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673:Pennine Alps Central
446:, Edward N. Buxton,
199:Location in the Alps
119:45.92250°N 7.83556°E
1588:Mountains of Valais
701:- Czech and English
671:Collomb, Robin G.,
564:Retrieved from the
421:William Edward Hall
379:group (in fact the
160:English translation
115: /
1392:Gross Fiescherhorn
1194:Named after people
1045:Monte Rosa Glacier
1038:Zwillingsgletscher
1023:Breithorngletscher
996:Tiefmatten Glacier
984:Schonbielgletscher
974:Matterhorn Glacier
878:TĂŞte de Valpelline
653:Les 4000 des Alpes
504:
450:and Franz Biener.
440:
406:of the same name:
373:
357:
349:
340:("people eater").
39:Highest point
1526:
1525:
1522:
1521:
1278:Notable mountains
1273:
1272:
1116:
1115:
1062:Hohlichtgletscher
1028:Schwärzegletscher
773:
456:Christian Klucker
290:
289:
124:45.92250; 7.83556
1620:
1555:
1554:
1553:
1543:
1542:
1541:
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1282:
1159:
1143:
1136:
1129:
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1093:Klein Matterhorn
1057:Mellichgletscher
1018:Triftjigletscher
989:Stockjigletscher
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414:Climbing history
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1416:Ultra-prominent
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1013:Theodul Glacier
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577:Retrieved from
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485:
483:Climbing routes
416:
385:Western Lyskamm
370:Western Lyskamm
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338:Menschenfresser
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1484:Finsteraarhorn
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1423:Finsteraarhorn
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1382:Ober Gabelhorn
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1327:Finsteraarhorn
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1103:Trockener Steg
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1052:Findel Glacier
1049:
1048:
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1040:
1033:Grenzgletscher
1030:
1025:
1020:
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1008:Gorner Glacier
1005:
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863:Ober Gabelhorn
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683:External links
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631:978-0900523625
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600:www.zermatt.ch
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517:Alpine Journal
508:
505:
489:Monte Rosa Hut
484:
481:
448:Jakob Anderegg
444:Leslie Stephen
436:Border Glacier
415:
412:
400:Grenzgletscher
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90:Zumsteinspitze
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1504:Rheinwaldhorn
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1467:Most-isolated
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1443:Dents du Midi
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1357:Dent d'HĂ©rens
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1342:Rimpfischhorn
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1285:Major 4000ers
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1184:Most isolated
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1021:
1019:
1016:
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1003:Furgg Glacier
1001:
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987:
986:
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979:Zmutt Glacier
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923:Rimpfischhorn
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906:
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901:
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883:Dent d'HĂ©rens
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736:Matter Valley
730:
725:
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710:
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661:2-7003-1305-4
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382:
378:
371:
368:Lyskamm from
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359:
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339:
335:
331:
327:
323:
319:
315:
311:
307:
303:
299:
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285:
283:
281:Easiest route
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273:
271:
267:
262:
259:
255:
253:
249:
246:
243:
241:
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232:
228:
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223:Region/Canton
221:
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207:
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58:
56:
52:
48:
46:
42:
37:
30:
25:
20:
1593:Pennine Alps
1509:Le Chasseron
1453:Grand Combin
1332:Zinalrothorn
1322:Grand Combin
1317:Dent Blanche
1301:
1174:Above 3000 m
1162:Country-wide
1098:Unterrothorn
1072:Ried Glacier
1067:Bisgletscher
873:TĂŞte Blanche
868:Dent Blanche
858:Zinalrothorn
672:
667:
652:
621:
615:
603:. Retrieved
599:
590:
583:Dufourspitze
579:Google Earth
573:
560:
516:
507:Bibliography
493:
486:
461:
452:
441:
417:
408:Lysgletscher
397:
393:Aosta Valley
381:Dufourspitze
374:
337:
322:Pennine Alps
313:
309:
292:
291:
270:First ascent
245:Pennine Alps
239:Parent range
227:Aosta Valley
1557:Switzerland
1514:Schesaplana
1499:Mont Tendre
1474:Piz Bernina
1428:Piz Bernina
1387:Piz Bernina
1377:Schreckhorn
1347:Aletschhorn
928:Allalinhorn
843:Brunegghorn
788:St. Niklaus
743:Settlements
538:Alps portal
425:St. Niklaus
326:Switzerland
308:, formerly
217:Switzerland
140:Native name
122: /
97:Coordinates
69:Parent peak
1567:Categories
1479:Monte Rosa
1433:Monte Rosa
1407:Lagginhorn
1352:Strahlhorn
1312:Matterhorn
1292:Monte Rosa
1245:St. Gallen
1225:GraubĂĽnden
1108:Schwarzsee
1088:Gornergrat
948:Lenzspitze
918:Strahlhorn
913:Monte Rosa
888:Matterhorn
793:Herbriggen
552:References
519:, 5: 23–32
513:W. E. Hall
377:Monte Rosa
314:Silberbast
107:45°55′21″N
74:Monte Rosa
59:379 m
55:Prominence
1545:Mountains
1489:Chasseral
1458:Piz Kesch
1402:Weissmies
1362:Breithorn
1307:Weisshorn
1230:Nidwalden
1208:By canton
953:Nadelhorn
938:Täschhorn
893:Breithorn
853:Weisshorn
831:Mountains
807:Gasenried
763:Riffelalp
596:"Liskamm"
566:Swisstopo
472:Breithorn
462:In 1907,
395:(south).
360:Geography
298:‹See Tfd›
258:swisstopo
209:Countries
168:Geography
163:Lys Ridge
110:7°50′08″E
81:Isolation
45:Elevation
1397:GrĂĽnhorn
1367:Jungfrau
1337:Alphubel
1235:Obwalden
967:Glaciers
933:Alphubel
838:Barrhorn
798:Mattsand
524:See also
334:cornices
318:mountain
264:Climbing
252:Topo map
1531:Portals
1302:Lyskamm
1179:Highest
1081:Tourism
958:Balfrin
908:Liskamm
848:Bishorn
812:Grächen
767:Zum See
759:Findeln
750:Zermatt
605:6 March
470:to the
468:Nordend
404:glacier
310:Lyskamm
306:Liskamm
293:Lyskamm
193:Lyskamm
145:Liskamm
87:→
63:Lisjoch
61:↓
22:Lyskamm
1438:Säntis
1260:Valais
1250:Ticino
1240:Schwyz
1220:Glarus
903:Castor
898:Pollux
822:Törbel
659:
628:
476:Castor
389:Valais
302:German
231:Valais
152:German
148:
135:Naming
1372:Mönch
1155:Lists
783:Randa
778:Täsch
771:Zmutt
330:Italy
213:Italy
1494:Tödi
1448:Tödi
1265:Vaud
1215:Bern
817:Embd
755:Ried
657:ISBN
626:ISBN
607:2016
328:and
229:and
215:and
1297:Dom
1255:Uri
943:Dom
1569::
769:,
765:,
761:,
757:,
655:,
640:^
598:.
410:.
304::
1533::
1142:e
1135:t
1128:v
774:)
752:(
728:e
721:t
714:v
634:.
609:.
585:.
438:)
295:(
154:)
150:(
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