333:, the same team that had narrowly failed in 2008. The attempt was made only 5 months after Ozturk suffered serious spinal and skull injuries while skiing, Chin also almost subsequently died in a severe avalanche on the same ski trip four days after Ozturk's accident. They overcame a broken portaledge, and a "mini-stroke" suffered by Ozturk, but cited excellent weather as a major factor in their success, which was recognized also by Guinness World Records as the first ascent of this peak. They reached the summit on their eighth day, then it took them three days to descend.
125:
118:
42:
232:
The mountain has three distinct peaks: southern (6,660 metres; 21,850 ft), central (6,310 metres; 20,700 ft), and northern (6,450 metres; 21,160 ft). The two higher peaks were climbed earlier than the harder central peak, which was first climbed in a 2001 solo ascent by Valery
Babanov,
241:
This 1400m route to Meru
Central follows North East Pillar, over the "Shark's Fin", a massive granite feature on the northeast face variously described as a "prow", "blade" or "nose". Its exceptional difficulty is exacerbated by the fact that its most technical rock climbing is near the top, meaning
285:
In 2001, Russian Valery
Babanov climbed the bottom part of the route to 5,800m before descending. He summited via a different route, which became known as "Shangri-La", later the same year. This was the first time Meru Central had been summited, by any route.
811:
292:
In 2004, Japanese climbers
Hiroyoshi Manome, Yasushi Okada, Makoto Kuroda, and Yasuhiro Hanatani failed after an accident injured one of the team members. The same team attempted again in 2006, but departed the Shark's Fin to reach the summit.
242:
that heavy gear needs to be carried almost all the way. It had been described as "one of the most attempted and most coveted lines in the entire
Himalaya" and "one of the last remaining challenges of big wall mountaineering."
815:
318:, Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek unsuccessfully attempted the route, turning around at the base of the headwall, due to insufficient gear, poor acclimatisation and an Alpine-style approach.
311:
climbed to within two pitches (150m) of the summit before turning back. They had experienced severe storms, forcing them to spend four days in the portaledge, depleting their food supplies.
221:
from a location on the surface of the Earth by Glenn
Singleman and Heather Swan, from a height of 6,604 metres (21,667 ft), in June 2006, a record which has since been surpassed by
296:
In
October 2006, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger attempted the route, but departed the ridge halfway up to successfully pursue an easier route to the summit.
837:
342:
was released, documenting Anker's team's two attempts on the route. It included footage taken by Chin and Ozturk on both attempts, originally intended just for posterity.
289:
In 2003, Americans Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot and Bruce Miller completed the bottom part of the wall, before veering off onto ice flutings, then eventually turning back.
249:
up to A4 difficulty. This is followed by the "Crystal Pitch", an overhanging and exposed section of aid climbing. The last section combines mixed and aid climbing.
245:
The route begins after a two-day approach, a 700m snow slope and a rock ramp. Next, is a steep, overhanging wall nicknamed the "Indian Ocean Wall" climbed with
900:
895:
438:
261:
attempted the route in 1986, thwarted by an avalanche on the lower slopes. In 1988 he tried and failed again, defeated by a lengthy snow storm.
596:
636:
74:
46:
Meru's three peaks from left to right: Southern, Central, and
Northern. The Shark's Fin is just left of the wide snow slope in the centre.
862:
890:
412:
527:
117:
385:
272:, Noel Craine, Dave Kendall and Philip Lloyd in 1993. This failure included Dawes losing a boot, and later having a major fall.
359:
67:
838:"American explorers recognised by Guinness World Records for completing the first ever ascent of Meru Peak Shark's Fin"
207:
738:
389:
763:
570:
150:
24:
442:
662:
713:
604:
497:
282:
Pete Takeda and Dave
Sheldon made three attempts, in 1998, 1999 and 2001, all unsuccessful.
233:
twice by other teams in 2006, and for the first time along the "Shark's Fin" route in 2011.
188:
464:
279:. In 1997, Nick Bullock, Jules Cartwright and Jamie Fisher achieved a height of 6,100m.
416:
265:
165:
884:
786:
226:
330:
322:
308:
300:
276:
269:
246:
222:
218:
210:, and has some highly challenging routes. The name Meru likely originated from the
203:
413:"Meru Peak - unclimbed mountains and base jumping - BaseClimb 3 - iTourist Blog"
338:
195:
154:
41:
326:
315:
304:
258:
20:
608:
89:
76:
687:
637:"Conquering the Himalaya's Shark's Fin: The First to Climb Mount Impossible"
191:
172:
211:
184:
863:"9 Facts About Climbing Mount Meru—And Making a Documentary Out of It"
57:
321:
The first successful climb of the route was made in
October 2011 by
199:
158:
441:. The Himalayan Club (via Internet Archive). 2002. Archived from
360:"Everest: Valery Rozov records world's highest base jump – video"
275:
Further unsuccessful attempts followed in the 1990s included
787:"Climber Renan Ozturk On Injury, Setbacks & Persistence"
597:"Jimmy Chin: why climbing Meru Peak is tougher than Everest"
528:"Himalaya's Hardest Climb - The Shark's Fin on Meru Central"
264:
A serious attempt was made by the primarily British team of
217:
The mountain was formerly the site of the world's highest
812:"Climbing Film 'Meru' Wins Audience Choice at Sundance"
739:"MERU'S SHARK'S FIN REMAINS UNCLIMBED - Alpinist.com"
202:. The 6,660-metre (21,850 ft) peak lies between
164:
146:
105:
66:
56:
51:
34:
8:
410:Blog by one of the BASE Jump climbing team
840:. guinnessworldrecords.com. 6 October 2016
31:
712:Beckwith, Christian (20 November 2006).
663:"Marmot Athlete Pete Takeda | Marmot US"
571:"Shark's Fin Full Report - Alpinist.com"
351:
857:
855:
631:
629:
627:
625:
498:"India's Shark's Fin finally climbed"
7:
565:
563:
561:
559:
557:
555:
553:
551:
549:
522:
520:
518:
492:
490:
488:
486:
484:
482:
225:'s 2013 jump from the North Face of
714:"JAPANESE CLIMB MERU BEFORE CZECHS"
465:"Japanese Climb Meru Before Czechs"
23:. For the volcano in Tanzania, see
14:
814:. 1 February 2015. Archived from
124:
901:Six-thousanders of the Himalayas
896:Geography of Uttarkashi district
467:. alpinist.com. 20 November 2006
439:"Meru Peak: The Gate to the Sky"
386:"Leap from the top of the world"
374:– via www.theguardian.com.
123:
116:
40:
785:Kurt, Alex (13 November 2015).
766:. alpinist.com. 17 October 2011
1:
62:6,660 m (21,850 ft)
595:Bailey, Mark (1 June 2017).
19:For the mythical peak, see
917:
336:In 2015, the feature film
137:Location in northern India
18:
764:"Shark's Fin Full Report"
390:The Sydney Morning Herald
236:
110:
39:
891:Mountains of Uttarakhand
692:The Armchair Mountaineer
366:. Reuters. 29 May 2013
151:Gangotri National Park
299:In 2008, the team of
90:30.86806°N 79.03222°E
25:Mount Meru (Tanzania)
314:In 2009, Slovenians
532:The Outdoor Journal
86: /
445:on 20 October 2011
194:, in the state of
95:30.86806; 79.03222
52:Highest point
237:Shark's Fin route
214:word for "peak".
178:
177:
16:Mountain in India
908:
875:
874:
872:
870:
865:. 14 August 2015
859:
850:
849:
847:
845:
834:
828:
827:
825:
823:
808:
802:
801:
799:
797:
782:
776:
775:
773:
771:
760:
754:
753:
751:
749:
743:www.alpinist.com
735:
729:
728:
726:
724:
709:
703:
702:
700:
698:
684:
678:
677:
675:
673:
659:
653:
652:
650:
648:
633:
620:
619:
617:
615:
592:
586:
585:
583:
581:
575:www.alpinist.com
567:
544:
543:
541:
539:
524:
513:
512:
510:
508:
502:www.thebmc.co.uk
494:
477:
476:
474:
472:
461:
455:
454:
452:
450:
435:
429:
428:
426:
424:
415:. Archived from
408:
402:
401:
399:
397:
382:
376:
375:
373:
371:
356:
168:
127:
126:
120:
101:
100:
98:
97:
96:
91:
87:
84:
83:
82:
79:
44:
32:
916:
915:
911:
910:
909:
907:
906:
905:
881:
880:
879:
878:
868:
866:
861:
860:
853:
843:
841:
836:
835:
831:
821:
819:
810:
809:
805:
795:
793:
784:
783:
779:
769:
767:
762:
761:
757:
747:
745:
737:
736:
732:
722:
720:
711:
710:
706:
696:
694:
686:
685:
681:
671:
669:
661:
660:
656:
646:
644:
635:
634:
623:
613:
611:
594:
593:
589:
579:
577:
569:
568:
547:
537:
535:
534:. 6 August 2015
526:
525:
516:
506:
504:
496:
495:
480:
470:
468:
463:
462:
458:
448:
446:
437:
436:
432:
422:
420:
419:on 13 July 2011
411:
409:
405:
395:
393:
384:
383:
379:
369:
367:
358:
357:
353:
348:
255:
239:
187:located in the
166:
142:
141:
140:
139:
138:
135:
134:
133:
132:
128:
94:
92:
88:
85:
80:
77:
75:
73:
72:
47:
28:
17:
12:
11:
5:
914:
912:
904:
903:
898:
893:
883:
882:
877:
876:
851:
829:
818:on 3 July 2018
803:
777:
755:
730:
704:
679:
667:www.marmot.com
654:
621:
587:
545:
514:
478:
456:
430:
403:
377:
350:
349:
347:
344:
266:Paul Pritchard
254:
251:
247:aid techniques
238:
235:
176:
175:
170:
162:
161:
148:
144:
143:
136:
130:
129:
122:
121:
115:
114:
113:
112:
111:
108:
107:
103:
102:
70:
64:
63:
60:
54:
53:
49:
48:
45:
37:
36:
15:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
913:
902:
899:
897:
894:
892:
889:
888:
886:
864:
858:
856:
852:
839:
833:
830:
817:
813:
807:
804:
792:
788:
781:
778:
765:
759:
756:
744:
740:
734:
731:
719:
715:
708:
705:
693:
689:
683:
680:
668:
664:
658:
655:
643:. 9 July 2014
642:
641:Men's Journal
638:
632:
630:
628:
626:
622:
610:
606:
602:
601:The Telegraph
598:
591:
588:
576:
572:
566:
564:
562:
560:
558:
556:
554:
552:
550:
546:
533:
529:
523:
521:
519:
515:
503:
499:
493:
491:
489:
487:
485:
483:
479:
466:
460:
457:
444:
440:
434:
431:
418:
414:
407:
404:
392:. 8 June 2006
391:
387:
381:
378:
365:
361:
355:
352:
345:
343:
341:
340:
334:
332:
328:
324:
319:
317:
312:
310:
306:
302:
297:
294:
290:
287:
283:
280:
278:
273:
271:
267:
262:
260:
252:
250:
248:
243:
234:
230:
228:
227:Mount Everest
224:
220:
215:
213:
209:
205:
201:
197:
193:
190:
186:
182:
174:
171:
169:
163:
160:
156:
152:
149:
145:
119:
109:
104:
99:
71:
69:
65:
61:
59:
55:
50:
43:
38:
33:
30:
26:
22:
867:. Retrieved
842:. Retrieved
832:
820:. Retrieved
816:the original
806:
794:. Retrieved
790:
780:
768:. Retrieved
758:
746:. Retrieved
742:
733:
721:. Retrieved
717:
707:
695:. Retrieved
691:
682:
670:. Retrieved
666:
657:
645:. Retrieved
640:
612:. Retrieved
600:
590:
578:. Retrieved
574:
536:. Retrieved
531:
505:. Retrieved
501:
469:. Retrieved
459:
447:. Retrieved
443:the original
433:
421:. Retrieved
417:the original
406:
394:. Retrieved
380:
370:25 September
368:. Retrieved
364:The Guardian
363:
354:
337:
335:
331:Renan Ozturk
323:Conrad Anker
320:
313:
309:Renan Ozturk
301:Conrad Anker
298:
295:
291:
288:
284:
281:
277:Scott Backes
274:
270:Johnny Dawes
263:
256:
244:
240:
231:
223:Valery Rozov
216:
204:Thalay Sagar
180:
179:
167:Parent range
29:
723:6 September
688:"Meru Peak"
196:Uttarakhand
155:Uttarakhand
93: /
68:Coordinates
885:Categories
844:13 October
791:GearJunkie
770:20 October
471:20 October
423:22 January
396:20 October
346:References
327:Jimmy Chin
316:Silvo Karo
305:Jimmy Chin
259:Mugs Stump
21:Mount Meru
609:0307-1235
449:20 August
257:American
219:BASE jump
192:Himalayas
181:Meru Peak
173:Himalayas
131:Meru Peak
106:Geography
81:79°1′56″E
78:30°52′5″N
58:Elevation
35:Meru Peak
718:Alpinist
253:Attempts
212:Sanskrit
208:Shivling
185:mountain
147:Location
189:Garhwal
869:2 July
822:3 July
796:2 July
748:2 July
697:2 July
672:2 July
647:2 July
614:3 July
607:
580:2 July
538:2 July
507:2 July
329:, and
307:, and
200:India
183:is a
159:India
871:2018
846:2016
824:2018
798:2018
772:2011
750:2018
725:2024
699:2018
674:2018
649:2018
616:2018
605:ISSN
582:2018
540:2018
509:2018
473:2011
451:2015
425:2010
398:2011
372:2017
339:Meru
206:and
198:in
887::
854:^
789:.
741:.
716:.
690:.
665:.
639:.
624:^
603:.
599:.
573:.
548:^
530:.
517:^
500:.
481:^
388:.
362:.
325:,
303:,
268:,
229:.
157:,
153:,
873:.
848:.
826:.
800:.
774:.
752:.
727:.
701:.
676:.
651:.
618:.
584:.
542:.
511:.
475:.
453:.
427:.
400:.
27:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
