239:
31:
247:
334:
315:
At each step Croz had to make Hadow's feet secure, and to do so he had to lay down his ice axe so that he had no support himself. Suddenly, while Croz was turning round to continue the descent, after having made Hadow secure, Hadow slipped and both of his feet struck Croz in the back. The guide lost
310:
After this party of seven successfully made the first ascent of the
Matterhorn on 14 July 1865, the order on the rope during the descent was Croz going down first, followed by Hadow, then Hudson, Douglas, old Peter Taugwalder and Whymper, with young Peter Taugwalder bringing up the rear. According to
320:
The rope (an old, thin and worn line) between
Douglas and old Peter Taugwalder snapped, saving the remaining three members of the party – Taugwalder father and son, and Whymper. Croz's body, together with those of Hudson and Hadow (but not Douglas), were recovered from the Matterhorn glacier. Croz
258:
Following eight failed attempts on the
Matterhorn starting from 1861, Whymper was recalled to London in the summer of 1864 and offered the services of Croz to his friend Adams-Reilly, advising him to make an attempt on the mountain (all three had been in a party that had made the first ascent of
222:
I cannot close this chapter without paying tribute to the ability with which Croz led us, through a dense mist, down the remainder of the
Glacier de la Pilatte. As an exhibition of strength and skill, it has seldom been surpassed in the Alps or elsewhere. On this almost unknown and very steep
223:
glacier, he was perfectly at home, even in the mists. Never able to see 50 feet ahead, he still went on with utmost certainty, and without having to retrace a single step; and displayed from first to last consummate knowledge of the materials with which he was dealing.
516:, London: Diadem, 1994, p. 187. Dumler calls this 'the "moral" first ascent' of the Grandes Jorasses. Although Croz and Whymper, together with Christian Almer and Franz Biner, did not reach the highest point of the mountain (
325:.' Whymper subsequently 'had to see to the fund for Croz's widow and he took on, later on, much care over a suitable memorial for the man who had been, despite occasional differences, undoubtedly his favourite guide.'
302:
father and son. Eventually this party decided to share the attempt on their common objective of the Hörnli ridge with Croz and Hudson, who had been joined by Hudson's protégé – the young, inexperienced and badly shod
321:
was buried in the south side of
Zermatt churchyard, on the other side from the graves of Hudson and Hadow. Whymper wrote: 'The inscription that is placed upon his tomb truthfully records that he was
263:
that year). This never came to anything, and the next year Croz was again employed by
Whymper. Together with Christian Almer and Franz Biner they made the first ascent of the
290:
guide Jean-Antoine Carrel. When this proved impossible (Carrel instead leading an
Italian party on an attempt on the Italian ridge of the mountain), Whymper teamed up with
524:(4,148 m). Dumler writes 'here is case where the formal credit is accorded to the successful party after an earlier attempt had resolved most of the difficulties.'
278:
On the
Matterhorn, Croz and Whymper tried a route via a couloir on the south-east face but were unsuccessful. Croz then had to fulfil an engagement with
652:
316:
his footing and fell headlong down the steep slope, dragging the boy with him. Hudson came next, then
Douglas; none had time to react.
238:
657:
632:
138:. He is chiefly remembered for his death on the first ascent of the Matterhorn and for his climbing partnership (as a guide) with
596:
637:
233:
453:
383:
with A. W. Moore, Horace Walker, Edward
Whymper, Christian Almer the elder and Christian Almer the younger on 25 June 1864
151:
424:
with Lord Francis Douglas, Douglas Hadow, Charles Hudson, Edward Whymper, Peter Taugwalder father and son on 14 July 1865
30:
392:
171:
254:. Hadow is second from the bottom, with Croz below him. The snapped rope above Hudson and Douglas is clearly seen.
279:
207:
520:, 4,208 m), they were the first to find a way to the summit ridge, and ascended the slightly lower summit of
158:. As well as making the first ascent of some of the most significant unclimbed mountains in the Alps – the
627:
135:
242:
The fatal accident on the Matterhorn occurred on the sunny snow slopes at the top right of the mountain.
647:
642:
441:
304:
291:
195:
183:
282:, during which – together with T. S. Kennedy – they made the first ascent of the Moine ridge of the
380:
187:
167:
444:, Wilhelm Klemm, Felix König and Richard Weitzenböck. The summit gives its name to the Croz Spur (
368:
353:(left to right). The Croz Spur is the buttress (centre right) on the north face that leads to
437:
408:
338:
299:
272:
456:. This buttress was first climbed by Martin Meier and Rudolf Peters from 28–29 June 1935.
445:
246:
215:
191:
251:
600:
415:
283:
139:
119:
621:
398:
287:
264:
203:
179:
175:
362:
159:
123:
418:(second ascent of the mountain) with Charles Hudson and T. S. Kennedy in July 1865
198:
and his brother Jean-Baptiste Croz, and in 1864 he made the first traverse of the
386:
260:
467:
in the centre of the town. One of the oldest buildings in Chamonix, the wooden
421:
374:
333:
163:
155:
115:
98:
78:
127:
389:
with by A. Reilly, Edward Whymper, H. Charlet and M. Payot on 9 July 1864
211:
111:
59:
395:
with A. Reilly, Edward Whymper, H. Charlet and M. Payot on 15 July 1864
295:
250:
The accident on the Matterhorn, triggered by Hadow, in an engraving by
202:
and the first traverse of the col de la Pilatte (with Edward Whymper,
411:
with Edward Whymper, Christian Almer and Franz Biner on 24 June 1865
401:
with Edward Whymper, Christian Almer and Franz Biner on 16 June 1865
452:), a major buttress on the north face of the mountain, one of the
440:, is named after him. It was first climbed in 1909, 'probably' by
332:
245:
237:
199:
190:, Peter Perren and Bartolomméo Peyrotte). In 1863, he climbed the
464:
131:
178:, including the col des Ecrins, the col du Sélé and the col du
174:– he also made the first traverse of many previously uncrossed
570:
D. F. O. Dangar and T. S. Blakeney, 'A Word for Whymper', in
150:
Croz began his guiding career in 1859 when he was engaged by
471:, was burnt to the ground in a fire on 15 February 1999.
218:). Of the latter expedition, Whymper was later to write,
377:
with F. W. Jacomb and William Mathews on 30 August 1861
371:
with F. W. Jacomb and William Mathews on 23 August 1861
286:, whilst Whymper attempted to join forces with the
94:
86:
67:
40:
21:
365:with William Mathews and E. Favre on 8 August 1860
323:beloved by his comrades and esteemed by travellers
491:, 6th edition, London: John Murray, 1936, p. 185
313:
220:
574:, ed. Jim Perrin, London: Diadem, 1983, p. 477
549:, London: George Allen and Unwin, 1971, p. 121
463:, a busy thoroughfare that crosses the river
8:
503:, 6th edition, Editor's Introduction, p. vi
29:
18:
459:Croz is commemorated in Chamonix by the
35:Whymper's engraving of Michel Croz, 1865
480:
512:Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt,
7:
122:of the Kingdom of Sardinia and the
14:
584:The High Mountains of the Alps
534:The High Mountains of the Alps
514:The High Mountains of the Alps
234:First ascent of the Matterhorn
114:valley – 14 July 1865, on the
1:
454:great north faces of the Alps
653:Sport deaths in Switzerland
436:(4,110 m), a summit on the
110:(22 April 1830 in Le Tour,
674:
559:Scrambles amongst the Alps
547:Mountaineering in the Alps
501:Scrambles amongst the Alps
489:Scrambles amongst the Alps
267:, and the first ascent of
231:
28:
658:Deaths on the Matterhorn
633:French mountain climbers
597:"Earth Wind and Fire?"
449:
358:
318:
255:
243:
225:
194:with William Mathews,
136:golden age of alpinism
638:Mountaineering deaths
572:Mirrors in the Cliffs
393:Aiguille d'Argentière
336:
249:
241:
172:Aiguille d'Argentière
16:French mountain guide
442:Eleonore Hasenclever
292:Lord Francis Douglas
196:Thomas George Bonney
414:Moine ridge of the
228:Matterhorn accident
188:Francis Fox Tuckett
118:) was a Chamoniard
108:Michel Auguste Croz
45:Michel Auguste Croz
461:avenue Michel Croz
359:
256:
244:
200:brèche de la Meije
186:(all in 1862 with
124:first ascentionist
469:Salle Michel Croz
184:Massif des Écrins
154:for an ascent of
146:Career as a guide
105:
104:
665:
612:
611:
609:
608:
599:. Archived from
593:
587:
581:
575:
568:
562:
556:
550:
543:
537:
531:
525:
510:
504:
498:
492:
487:Edward Whymper,
485:
438:Grandes Jorasses
409:Grandes Jorasses
381:Barre des Écrins
339:Grandes Jorasses
300:Peter Taugwalder
273:Grandes Jorasses
168:Barre des Écrins
74:
54:
52:
33:
19:
673:
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511:
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499:
495:
486:
482:
477:
431:
331:
236:
230:
216:Christian Almer
192:Grandes Rousses
152:William Mathews
148:
130:in the western
82:
76:
72:
63:
56:
50:
48:
47:
46:
36:
24:
17:
12:
11:
5:
671:
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650:
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635:
630:
620:
619:
614:
613:
588:
576:
563:
551:
545:Claire Engel,
538:
526:
522:Pointe Whymper
505:
493:
479:
478:
476:
473:
430:
427:
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419:
416:Aiguille Verte
412:
405:Pointe Whymper
402:
396:
390:
384:
378:
372:
366:
347:Pointe Whymper
330:
327:
311:Claire Engel,
284:Aiguille Verte
280:Charles Hudson
269:Pointe Whymper
232:Main article:
229:
226:
147:
144:
140:Edward Whymper
120:mountain guide
103:
102:
96:
95:Known for
92:
91:
90:Mountain guide
88:
84:
83:
77:
75:(aged 35)
69:
65:
64:
57:
44:
42:
38:
37:
34:
26:
25:
22:
15:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
670:
659:
656:
654:
651:
649:
646:
644:
641:
639:
636:
634:
631:
629:
628:Alpine guides
626:
625:
623:
603:on 2009-10-21
602:
598:
592:
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580:
577:
573:
567:
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560:
555:
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548:
542:
539:
535:
530:
527:
523:
519:
518:Pointe Walker
515:
509:
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502:
497:
494:
490:
484:
481:
474:
472:
470:
466:
462:
457:
455:
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450:l'Ă©peron Croz
447:
443:
439:
435:
429:Commemoration
428:
423:
420:
417:
413:
410:
406:
403:
400:
399:Grand Cornier
397:
394:
391:
388:
385:
382:
379:
376:
373:
370:
367:
364:
361:
360:
356:
352:
348:
344:
343:Pointe Walker
340:
335:
329:First ascents
328:
326:
324:
317:
312:
308:
306:
305:Douglas Hadow
301:
297:
293:
289:
288:Valtournenche
285:
281:
276:
274:
270:
266:
265:Grand Cornier
262:
253:
248:
240:
235:
227:
224:
219:
217:
213:
209:
205:
204:Horace Walker
201:
197:
193:
189:
185:
181:
180:Glacier Blanc
177:
173:
169:
165:
161:
157:
153:
145:
143:
141:
137:
133:
129:
125:
121:
117:
113:
109:
100:
97:
93:
89:
85:
81:, Switzerland
80:
70:
66:
61:
55:22 April 1830
43:
39:
32:
27:
20:
605:. Retrieved
601:the original
591:
583:
579:
571:
566:
558:
554:
546:
541:
533:
529:
521:
517:
513:
508:
500:
496:
488:
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468:
460:
458:
433:
432:
404:
363:Grande Casse
354:
350:
346:
342:
322:
319:
314:
309:
294:and the two
277:
268:
257:
252:Gustave Doré
221:
160:Grande Casse
149:
107:
106:
101:first ascent
73:(1865-07-14)
71:14 July 1865
648:1865 deaths
643:1830 births
434:Pointe Croz
387:Mont Dolent
355:Pointe Croz
351:Pointe Croz
261:Mont Dolent
208:A. W. Moore
134:during the
23:Michel Croz
622:Categories
607:2009-10-26
475:References
422:Matterhorn
375:Monte Viso
164:Monte Viso
156:Mont Blanc
116:Matterhorn
99:Matterhorn
87:Occupation
79:Matterhorn
51:1830-04-22
128:mountains
58:Le Tour,
586:, p. 188
561:, p. 136
536:, p. 149
298:guides,
212:Saas-Fee
170:and the
126:of many
112:Chamonix
62:, France
60:Chamonix
407:on the
296:Zermatt
271:on the
182:in the
446:French
369:Castor
214:guide
166:, the
465:Arve
349:and
337:The
210:and
176:cols
132:Alps
68:Died
41:Born
624::
448::
345:,
341:.
307:.
275:.
206:,
162:,
142:.
610:.
357:.
53:)
49:(
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