652:“It’s been years now that younger generations don’t use magazines to express themselves — at least not the way we did back in 1992. Social media now generally satisfy the need for images, contacts, and creativity. Publishing a magazine has become so expensive… An actual print object like Purple is a luxury item, which is why new alternative magazines don’t last more than a few years, are often bought, or simply disappear. Doing a luxury magazine today is one of the paradoxes of the Instagram era, when such things cost nothing… A magazine is not an ego trip… It’s a collective work by a group of creative people who believe in the artistic value of the print media and share a similar vision. (Thanks to all of them!) Every image, every single text, the choice of paper, the layout, even the choice of typefaces matters. Everything matters… Purple is made to last. Purple is made to capture a moment every season… In this period of global Internet obsession and digital amnesia, I think that means something"
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Purple
Fiction and Purple Fashion. Zahm aimed at fusing together his two worlds, fashion and art, in creating Purple Fashion. A typical issue featured interviews, articles and presentations covering a wide range of topics and disciplines which include; film and video, politics, fashion, architecture, sexuality, science, photography and music. Each issue was built around a loose theme which serves to create a link between subjects-past examples have been: Indian Summer, Violet Violence, Post-Sex. With its international correspondents and cutting-edge design, Purple Prose had the distinctive feel of a truly global art zine. The texts were written in roughly equal parts French and English, without translations.
423:
443:, Elien Fleiss, then a young gallery curator received a phone call from Zahm. She was looking for an art critic to write a manifesto against a journalist from a daily newspaper who she felt was writing insanities about contemporary art in general. Zahm agreed to do it, and that was the beginning of the encounter, which then became a love story. Their romance was short-lived, but their professional relationship was fruitful. In 1994, they curated "The Winter of Love," a hit show for the
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755:"He (Lagerfeld) was buying these little digital cameras at the time, Sony Cyber-shots, a little pocket-size, flat, digital camera. He had a pile of them on his table and said: “Take this, if you’ll use it.” We had this long discussion about photography and I said, “Karl how can you want to be a photographer when you were friends with
435:"Freedom for me came from the art world because it was a place where I could meet the artists. I wanted to be a social critic. I was more interested in the category of intellectual, involving art and politics and writing sometimes. But I didn't want to be a writer necessarily, I just wanted to be part of an intellectual world."
279:, and unfettered by the constraints of the mainstream publishing world. His online activity served as an early electronic precursor to popular social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram. His magazine remains one of the only independent and privately owned publications of its kind. Created in the beginning of the
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an
American artist suggested the title Purple Prose in reference to the literary term in which a prose text is so extravagant, ornate, or flowery that it breaks the flow and draws excessive attention to itself. Soon after the birth of Purple Prose, Zahm created spin-off publications like Purple Sexe,
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In May 2017, Zahm published a book in collaboration with
Donation Grau titled,' Une avant-garde sans avant-garde'. The book is a collection of Zahm's most significant texts written during the last 30 years. It is above all a radical reading of art from the 1990s to the present. The anthology tries to
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Many of the new and radical ideas surrounding Zahm, immersing his youth in tumultuous generational discord, stayed with him, shaping his views on art, philosophical ideas and lifestyle choices. He leveraged his profound formative experience using it as a tool to build aspects and themes that remain
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In 2009, he began documenting his late-night partying escapades in high-contrast black-and-white photographs which appeared on Purple Diary, a notorious photo blog that would become the seed for a full Purple website. He has had shows of his photographic work at Half
Gallery in New York, Colette in
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Before entering the world of fashion, Zahm worked as an art critic with widespread recognition for his work as a curator as well as his participation in over 150 exhibitions featuring international contemporary art. In responding to the superficial glamour of the 1980s, Zahm co-founded Purple Prose
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Zahm's love of magazines began when he was a teenager in the Paris suburbs. "We used to steal porn magazines in the bookstores and shops and look at them during school," he says. "It was fun and secret. This is where my obsession for magazines comes from. Magazines used to reveal and give us access
380:"We launched Purple Prose in the early 1990s without any means, and without any experience, because we wanted to make a magazine that was radically different. We wanted to support the artists around us that no one else supported, much less talked about. It would be a form of opposition of our own".
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Zahm gravitated towards the idea of working with magazines from the conception of his career in art. In 1992 Zahm and his partner Elien Fleiss printed the first issue of Purple Prose, a
Parisian literary art zine. Their goal was to create a new kind of space for artists to present their work and
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During the beginning of the 80s Zahm started to observe and take an interest in the art world. He liked the notion of "being everywhere and on the move", following art fairs, meeting artists, educating himself in the universe of contemporary art while immersing himself into its social landscape.
271:. His early blogs garnered notoriety, and featured highly stylized photographs taken by him, that took his audience on daily tours of his fantasyland populated by the artists, intellectuals, designers, filmmakers, socialites, models and celebrities who regularly appeared in his magazine. His
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decipher this chaotic, contradictory, oppressive, and ultra-creative period. The introductions that precede each chapter contextualize the selected texts, and develop the idea that the 1990s invented an avant-garde without an avant-garde, the issues of which are increasing and intensifying.
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express their ideas; and to design a network through which people working in different disciplines, could easily access new information and each other and contributing to the early 90s alternative indie culture. Zahm liked the idea of a color sharing the title with an art magazine.
648:, and more. It was the first time the magazine printed multiple covers for one issue. 25 different covers showed 25 Purple icons. It was also the first time purple distributed hard-cover magazines instead of the traditional soft-cover print. He described in the editions Edito:
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in my generation and I haven't been able to do photography since I’ve known him, because he's the best." And he said: “Olivier, shut up. You don’t understand, photography is not about getting the right picture, it’s about documenting your everyday life. Remember
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Olivier Zahm was born and raised in Paris, France. He was the eldest of three children born to two university professors. His parents, who were both students at the time of his birth, raised Zahm and his other siblings in student quarters that were designed by
565:, for example.) From an artistic standpoint, the artists from the early 1990s were raising up against art as a capitalist fetish; they were aligning themselves with the artistic social and political practices of the 1970s—those of performance,
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relationships. "My parents had a lot of lovers, they had a lot of affairs. At the time, my parents were really part of this alternative movement in Paris but quite bourgeois too. It wasn't San
Francisco or New York. It was the French way."
366:. His father, Claude, taught philosophy, and Zahm was on track to do the same, before realizing, at 25, that he preferred life outside "la tour d’ ivoire." Zahm's youngest sister committed suicide in 1994 at the age of 20.
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in Paris,"BEIGE" in 1996 at Saga
Basement in Copenhagen and "La Voie Lactée" in 1998 at Alleged Gallery in New York City. These housed the likes of many renowned creatives across disciplines, including
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Zahm's gift of being a charismatic intellectual and having an eye for contemporary art made itself apparent early on. He found himself penning for the three leading art titles at the time
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in 2010 that he, "remembers summers spent vacationing in the South of France with his parents in a community of like minded free spirits" – who he labeled hippies. It was the
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511:. His countless exhibitions have embodied the same vision as the rest of his creative pursuits, comprehending art in a radically cultural, counter-institutional context.
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published O.Z. Diary, a cosmopolitan 500-page photo diary exposing the lifestyles of the creative elite through a series of intimate, autobiographical photographs.
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For its 25th anniversary issue, Purple celebrated the artists and models who incarnated the spirit of the magazine through their style, attitude, and personality:
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The protests reached such a point that political leaders feared civil war or revolution. The unrest began with a series of student occupation protests against
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Zahm has a son, Balthus, with designer
Natacha Ramsay-Levi, and a daughter, Asia, with writer Anna Dubosc. He splits his time between Los Angeles and Paris.
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to the
European art world. He started traveling to the United States and Japan, realizing he could set up his own operation and work agenda, 24/7. He told
308:. Much of his early childhood was spent in academic settings, particularly- during the volatile period of civil unrest in France that broke out in May 1968
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2528:"A new issue of Le Palace's fanzine celebrating Gucci Spring Summer 2019 show by Alessandro Michele, with Purple's Olivier Zahm and photos by Martin Parr"
499:, and "To Paint is to Love Again" at Los Angeles gallery Nino Mier, addressing the state of art in the digital age with works from prominent artists like
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In addition to documenting his personal life on social media platform he continues to shoot many editorials and campaigns for various brands including
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Zahm credited
Lagerfeld for reigniting his sentiment for taking photos in 2005. Zahm told WWD in an interview dedicated to Purple's 25th Anniversary:
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768:, do you think he was a good photographer? He always had a camera on him. Do like Warhol, do like me: Don’t let a day go by without taking a picture.”
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hired Olivier Zahm to launch Liberation Style, an occasional Saturday supplement to the main paper. 15 issues were published every season until 2005.
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delegated the artistic direction of the magazine which was not available to the public, but instead only the private cliental of Chanel to Zahm
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For many years the magazine was associated with a realist esthetic, that of the new photography of the early 1990s- of photographers like
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In addition to his innovative print publishing, he is a recognized pioneering cultural influence at the dawn of the electronic era during
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in New York City. Over the next decade they continued to curate several shows together around the world, including "June" in 1993 at the
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1788:"Olivier Zahm's new book "Une avant-garde sans avant-garde" co-edited with Donatien Grau is available now to pre-order! – Purple Diary"
257:, curator, writer, and photographer He is the co-founder, owner, and current editor-in-chief of the bi-annual art and fashion magazine
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to sex, fashion, music and art. TV never did that, and books are mostly academic. Magazines were a symbol of freedom."
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in Paris and printed a subsequent catalogue publication under the same name, displaying works from the likes of
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2882:"Who is Natacha Ramsay-Levi? Meet the Paris It-girl who has just been named creative director at Chloé"
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launched its very first magazine: 31 Rue Cambon. Chanel's goal was to combine sales and information.
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magazine. In the introduction of Purple Anthology, Zahm shares why he chose to create Purple Prose:
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In 2017 Purple moved their US based headquarters and offices from New York City to Los Angeles.
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1762:"Une avant-garde sans avant-garde Essai sur l'art – broché – Olivier Zahm – Achat Livre | fnac"
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2553:"Gucci Caps Off Its Paris Takeover by Releasing a New Issue of the Cult Fanzine, Le Palace"
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2429:"The Sisterhood | Photography Anette Aurell | i-D Magazine | December 2001/January 2002"
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557:. From a visual standpoint, the magazine represented a break from 80s imagery (like
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2856:"OZ Diary. A photographic diary of Fashion, Art and Sex by Olivier Zahm – Onetshirt"
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1094:"Purple's Editor-In-Chief Olivier Zahm accuses Muse Magazine of Shameless Copying!"
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472:. Notably in 2000, Zahm and Fleiss curated the exposition "Elysian Fields" at the
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1662:"Olivier Zahm: Une avant-garde sans avant-garde – Les presses du réel (livre)"
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1927:"A French Fashion Editor on the Difference Between Paris, New York, and L.A."
863:"A French Fashion Editor on the Difference Between Paris, New York, and L.A."
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2173:"Purple Magazine Celebrates Its 25th Anniversary With Ralph Lauren in Paris"
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283:– it still remains a major reference for other alternative magazines today.
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prevalent in his personal and professional life in adulthood. He told The
1840:"Purple Prose Magazine Issue No. 1 1992 Olivier Zahm, Elein Fleiss *Rare*"
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1148:"Olivier Zahmis One of the 500 People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry"
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2127:"Photos: Purple Magazine's 25th Anniversary Party at Top of The Standard"
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2961:"Riding Around Paris With Olivier Zahm, Fashion's Most Libidinal Editor"
1307:"Riding Around Paris With Olivier Zahm, Fashion's Most Libidinal Editor"
1256:"Riding Around Paris With Olivier Zahm, Fashion's Most Libidinal Editor"
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1687:"sans dieu ni maitre, petite leçon d'avant-gardisme par olivier zahm"
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2476:"The New Chanel Magazine, 31 Rue Cambon, issue No. 3 – Purple Diary"
336:, the decade of sex revolution and Zahm's parents were committed to
2227:"Purple 25th anniversary party with Zadig & Voltaire, New York"
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253:(born 25 September 1963) is a French magazine editor, art critic,
2254:"Purple Magazine Celebrates 25th Anniversary, Founder's Birthday"
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in Paris. The magazine was the 14th issue of Le Palace Magazine.
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Paris, Leadapron in Los Angeles and The Last Gallery in Tokyo.
668:, the founder and editor-in-chief of French national newspaper
2936:"Olivier Zahm's Girlfriend Dumped Him and He Blogged About It"
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from the article and its talk page, especially if potentially
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2450:"31 Rue Cambon : le magazine Chanel – Tendances de Mode"
1897:"Olivier Zahm's Cocktail of Intellect, Sex and the Seventies"
1387:"Purple Anthology: Art Prose Fashion Music Architecture Sex"
2650:""The Secrets of Photographing Women", l'expo Olivier Zahm"
2201:"Purple 25th Anniversary Issue Is Out Now! – Purple Diary"
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Purple Anthology: Art Prose Fashion Music Architecture Sex
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963:"The Man and the Brand: Olivier Zahm – Interview Magazine"
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More recent shows included "La Force de L'Art" in 2006 at
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2604:"Purple's Olivier Zahm Launches A Photo Exhibit in L.A."
2027:"Retrospective Maison Martin Margiela – Purple Magazine"
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Jan Van Osst, Sans Titre, 1993 at L'Hiver De L'amour in
1227:"purple reign: #tbt to 2010, when i-D met olivier zahm"
1176:"purple reign: #tbt to 2010, when i-D met olivier zahm"
1017:"purple reign: #tbt to 2010, when i-D met olivier zahm"
1120:"Olivier Zahm Accuses Muse Magazine of Copying Purple"
2337:"Milk Los Angeles – The Purple Magazine Party | Milk"
1715:. Dijon; Zurich: Les Presses du réel. 1 March 2017.
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2625:"Olivier Zahm 'Purple Diary' Exhibition @ colette"
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1461:Zahm, Olivier; Fleiss, Elein, eds. (27 May 2008).
324:, and traditional institutions, values and order.
2579:"Fashion's Naughtiest Photographer, Olivier Zahm"
2343:. Archived from the original on 24 September 2018
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1737:"Olivier Zahm - Une avant-garde sans avant-garde"
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1440:. New York City: Rizzoli. pp. introduction.
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230:Editor-in-chief and co-founder of Purple Magazine
2502:"Olivier Zahm Made A 'Corporate Mag' for Chanel"
1512:"The Winter of Love (L'Hiver de l'Amour) | MoMA"
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2148:"Purple 25 Years 25 covers – Purple Magazine"
8:
2701:"Olivier Zahm Archives – Portraits Of Girls"
1814:"Les Chroniques Purple – Ravelin Magazine"
151:
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58:about living persons that is unsourced or
1487:"The Winter of Love (L'Hiver de l'Amour)"
800:, Vogue Russia, and Kadewe among others.
129:Learn how and when to remove this message
811:contributed various texts for the book.
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2837:from the original on 15 December 2021
2252:Templeton, Lily (26 September 2017).
2002:"Fine Print | 'The Purple Anthology'"
1436:Zahm, Olivier; Fleiss, Elein (2008).
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428:Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville Paris
214:Creator of “la communauté des amants”
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1412:"Purple Anthology – Purple Magazine"
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735:In 2018 Zahm designed a fanzine for
573:, and the conceptual and minimalist
275:has been described as anti-fashion,
2283:Foreman, Katya (5 September 2017).
2880:Leaper, Caroline (10 March 2017).
2577:Jones, Justin (9 September 2014).
2077:"Harmony Korine – Purple Magazine"
1357:"Purple Prose magazine on Magpile"
739:’s FW2019 collection presented at
386:Art critic and curator (1985–1994)
14:
2309:Foreman, Katya (30 August 2018).
2726:"Olivier Zahm, l'art du présent"
2052:"Rei Kawakubo – Purple Magazine"
1877:from the original on 23 May 2022
1713:Une avant-garde sans avant-garde
358:He studied philosophy, history,
302:RĂ©sidence Universitaire Jean-Zay
25:
2827:Marc Jacobs (17 October 2014),
2676:"Olivier Zahm | Semi Permanent"
2102:"Larry Clark – Purple Magazine"
1043:"Olivier Zahm | Semi Permanent"
597:, among others; photography of
206:Magazine editor, photographer,
2758:(in French). 21 September 2015
1537:"Olivier Zahm retour critique"
1203:"Publisher in the Warhol Mold"
1068:"Olivier Zahm: Le Provocateur"
841:"Publisher in the Warhol Mold"
679:Issue 2: Personnalité Multiple
403:and introduced a then unknown
1:
2778:"Olivier Zahm – Photographer"
912:"Olivier Zahm, dandy Ă louer"
803:In 2014, Zahm partnered with
445:Museum of Modern Art in Paris
2752:"Hedy vue par… Olivier Zahm"
712:Issue 13: Best of L’ete 2005
709:Issue 12: Les Années Fatales
685:Issue 4: L’empire des Signes
197:Panthéon-Sorbonne University
36:biography of a living person
2803:"O.Z.: Olivier Zahm: Diary"
1285:"Olivier Zahm, l'anar chic"
609:’s independent filmmaking.
63:must be removed immediately
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3014:French fashion journalists
1693:(in French). 25 April 2017
796:, and magazines including
439:In 1989, while working at
2830:O.Z.: Olivier Zahm: Diary
2732:(in French). 3 March 2017
2361:: CS1 maint: unfit URL (
694:Issue 7: L’autre Amérique
691:Issue 6: Special Creation
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16:French fashion journalist
1547:– via PressReader.
715:Issue 14: Special Hommes
676:Issue 1: Le Retour Paris
497:Le Grand Palais in Paris
447:that they later took to
287:Early life and education
3024:French magazine editors
1901:The Business of Fashion
1152:The Business of Fashion
453:Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac
2427:annaka (11 May 2016).
1609:"Perrotin.com/artists"
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718:Issue 15: Mystere Karl
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587:Felix Gonzalez- Torres
437:
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383:
362:and literature at the
50:Please help by adding
2454:Tendances-de-mode.com
2335:Jon (28 March 2013).
2311:"Purple's L.A. Times"
2231:Zadig-et-voltaire.com
1465:. New York: Rizzoli.
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682:Issue 3: Plein Soleil
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3019:French male bloggers
2915:"The New Chloé Girl"
2705:Portraitsofgirls.com
1980:Adaweb.walkerart.org
1666:Lespressesdureel.com
1098:by Styling Amsterdam
759:because, me, I have
322:American imperialism
157:Zahm in Paris (1979)
56:Contentious material
1951:"Purple Prose , #1"
1866:"The colour purple"
1559:"dashwoodbooks.com"
1332:"Purple Prose , #2"
561:’s photography for
419:magazine in 2010:
409:Martin Kippenberger
3029:French art critics
2508:. 23 February 2011
2377:"Liberation Style"
2315:Women's Wear Daily
2289:Women's Wear Daily
2258:Women's Wear Daily
2207:. 5 September 2017
1794:. 23 February 2017
1074:. 7 September 2014
778:Yves Saint Laurent
664:In the year 2000,
583:Comme des Garçsons
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294:Charlotte Perriand
268:Digital Revolution
212:fashion journalist
2680:Semipermanent.com
2482:. 5 February 2011
1563:Dashwoodbooks.com
1447:978-0-8478-3020-6
1201:Morgan, Spencer.
839:Morgan, Spencer.
794:Agent Provocateur
646:Maurizio Cattelan
626:Wolfgang Tillmans
591:Maurizio Cattelan
551:Wolfgang Tillmans
466:Jean-Luc Vilmouth
462:Wolfgang Tillmans
458:Maurizio Cattelan
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1820:. 13 August 2014
1818:Ravelin Magazine
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1438:Purple Anthology
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1391:Rizzoli New York
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836:
697:Issue 8: La nuit
688:Issue 5: Glamour
660:Freelance editor
595:Philippe Parreno
547:Terry Richardson
505:Vanessa Beecroft
244:
241:
176:
172:
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155:
141:
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127:
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71:
52:reliable sources
29:
28:
21:
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3034:French curators
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1994:
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1982:
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1925:Swanson, Carl.
1924:
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1871:The Independent
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1638:Miergallery.com
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969:. 10 March 2010
961:
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868:
861:Swanson, Carl.
860:
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855:
845:
843:
838:
837:
830:
825:
817:
749:
706:Issue 11: Milan
703:Issue 10: Tokyo
700:Issue 9: Femmes
662:
642:Susan Cianciolo
618:
614:Purple Magazine
579:Martin Margiela
530:
524:Early day's of
521:
474:Centre Pompidou
430:curated by Zahm
397:Texte zur Kunst
388:
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72:
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49:
30:
26:
17:
12:
11:
5:
3052:
3050:
3042:
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3039:French editors
3036:
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3026:
3021:
3016:
3011:
3006:
2996:
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2992:
2991:
2989:Purple website
2984:
2983:External links
2981:
2978:
2977:
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2927:
2906:
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2402:"Olivier ZAHM"
2393:
2381:Ideanow.online
2368:
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2285:"Purple Reign"
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2189:
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2118:
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2018:
1992:
1976:"Purple Prose"
1967:
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1805:
1779:
1766:Livre.fnac.com
1753:
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1634:"Mier Gallery"
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1283:Match, Paris.
1272:
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1193:
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1136:
1111:
1100:. 5 March 2012
1085:
1059:
1047:Semi Permanent
1034:
1005:
989:"Purple Night"
980:
954:
938:"Purple Diary"
929:
903:
887:"Purple Diary"
878:
853:
827:
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786:Giorgio Armani
761:Juergen Teller
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634:Richard Prince
617:
616:(2017–present)
611:
603:Harmony Korine
599:Juergen Teller
559:Richard Avedon
555:Mario Sorrenti
543:Juergen Teller
529:
522:
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517:
482:Richard Prince
478:Gerard Richter
387:
384:
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330:New York Times
288:
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277:counterculture
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227:Known for
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78:"Olivier Zahm"
60:poorly sourced
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2629:Hypebeast.com
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2406:Libération.fr
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2028:
2022:
2019:
2007:
2003:
1996:
1993:
1981:
1977:
1971:
1968:
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1903:. 27 May 2015
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815:Personal life
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809:Glenn O'Brien
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179:Paris, France
175:(age 60)
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80: –
79:
75:
74:Find sources:
68:
64:
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53:
47:
46:
42:
37:
32:
23:
22:
19:
2970:24 September
2968:. Retrieved
2964:
2955:
2945:24 September
2943:. Retrieved
2939:
2930:
2920:24 September
2918:. Retrieved
2909:
2899:24 September
2897:. Retrieved
2885:
2875:
2865:26 September
2863:. Retrieved
2860:Onetshirt.eu
2859:
2850:
2841:26 September
2839:, retrieved
2829:
2822:
2812:26 September
2810:. Retrieved
2806:
2797:
2787:24 September
2785:. Retrieved
2781:
2772:
2762:24 September
2760:. Retrieved
2755:
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2736:24 September
2734:. Retrieved
2729:
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2710:24 September
2708:. Retrieved
2704:
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2685:24 September
2683:. Retrieved
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2660:24 September
2658:. Retrieved
2653:
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2634:24 September
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2628:
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2609:24 September
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2588:24 September
2586:. Retrieved
2582:
2572:
2560:. Retrieved
2556:
2547:
2535:. Retrieved
2531:
2522:
2512:24 September
2510:. Retrieved
2505:
2496:
2486:24 September
2484:. Retrieved
2479:
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2460:24 September
2458:. Retrieved
2453:
2444:
2434:24 September
2432:. Retrieved
2422:
2412:24 September
2410:. Retrieved
2405:
2396:
2386:24 September
2384:. Retrieved
2380:
2371:
2347:24 September
2345:. Retrieved
2340:
2330:
2320:24 September
2318:. Retrieved
2314:
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2294:24 September
2292:. Retrieved
2288:
2263:24 September
2261:. Retrieved
2257:
2247:
2237:24 September
2235:. Retrieved
2230:
2221:
2211:24 September
2209:. Retrieved
2204:
2182:24 September
2180:. Retrieved
2176:
2167:
2157:24 September
2155:. Retrieved
2151:
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