431:
64:
36:
399:) off single-finger pockets in the limestone, and in particular, a powerful initial dynamic jump-start into a two-finger pocket while leaning back at an extreme angle of 45-degrees. The route is short at 15-metre (49 ft) and took Güllich only 70-seconds to complete his very direct 16-move sequence; most ascents post the second ascent move rightwards to a more efficient 11 to 13 move sequence described as
71:
513:
was probably an 8c+ in the right conditions, although Megos caveated himself by noting that grading is not an exact science, and is subject to the climber's own style. In 2022, British climber Buster Martin became only the second climber to have climbed both routes and felt that they were both 9a; he
444:
has been consistently described as famous, legendary, and iconic in the climbing media, and even in 2020, it was being described as "an absolute cornerstone of cutting-edge difficulties that attracts an irresistible draw for the vertical elite", and "... milestone 9a is one of the most famous and
303:
grade X. In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual moves through the upper section, but believed the lower section feasible but too hard for himself – he generously offered the project to Güllich, who promptly bolted the direct start, and
327:
Subsequent climbers have used a slightly different circa 11 to 13-move sequence to Güllich's original very direct 16-move sequence. At the 25-year anniversary of its first ascent, ten climbers who had completed the route assembled and estimated only Adler had repeated Güllich's exact 16-move
323:
it. Güllich was 30 at the time and had been married just 5 days previously to freeing the route. Four years later the route was repeated when East German climber
Alexander Adler fulfilled what he called an "obsession" to repeat the climb.
1807:
380:
and almost three decades after Güllich's original ascent was still only the 27th person to have climbed it. Two of the 27 ascents, Richard
Simpson (2005), and Said Belhaj (2018), are disputed.
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that persisted for many years, despite it being eventually shown to be a "hard 9a", for artificially suppressing the grades of other routes in the 1990s, such as Huber's
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1811:
1781:
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A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the
Waldkopf
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on 14 September 1991, after 11 days of working the route – spread over three weeks – and using a 16-move sequence including a direct start with a
1758:
1333:
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264:
63:
1219:
Tilman Hepp: Wolfgang Güllich. Leben in der
Senkrechten. Eine Biographie. 1. Auflage. Rosenheimer Verlagshaus Alfred Förg, Rosenheim 1993,
468:", which would become the new standard for future extreme climbers to build finger strength and develop more dynamic muscle strength.
299:, which was akin to an enormous boulder. Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes
1958:
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20:
2019:
343: (5.14d). Subsequent ascents would verify its grade, which has since described as the "gold standard" or "benchmark" for
2160:
279:, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The
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1518:"Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece"
457: (5.14d) – and when he freed the route, he was at the height of his physical and technical powers.
603:
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909:
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347: (5.14d); and the first ever 9a in history. It wasn't for almost another decade, until 2001 when
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techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of
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to prepare for the physical demands of the climb, and introduced the climbing world to the "
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35:
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1485:"Exclusive: This is what Said Belhaj says in response to the accusations of Hannes Huch"
304:
hence the name "Directe"; Güllich said that it also named after the French terror group
1602:"This is what Alex Megos says about the dispute over the title "First 9a in the world""
846:
780:
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674:
662:
391:
is famous for its unique style, involving physically demanding dynamic moves (known as
248:
164:
2154:
1892:
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765:
695:
406:
After his 2016 ascent, German climber David
Firnenburg described it as: "The initial
328:
sequence, and that all others had crossed slightly right to use a shorter sequence.
965:
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841:
627:
514:
did note that being sponsored by Ben Moon might make people skeptical of his view.
465:
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280:
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93:
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on small finger pockets. Then there are technically complicated side holds and
977:
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396:
1759:"Rock Climbing Classics: Episode 2 – Jan Hojer Climbs Action Directe (5.14d)"
126:
113:
1085:
863:
683:
450:
252:
45:
1334:"Mélissa Le Nevé Becomes First Woman To Climb "Action Directe" (9a/5.14d)"
594:
1632:"Was 'Hubble' or 'Action Directe' the First 9a? Buster Martin Weighs In"
1166:"Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece"
410:
into the sharp two-finger pocket is followed by a passage with extreme
97:
418:
with difficult foot changes before you run out with a tricky must-hit
403:
easier than Güllich's original sequence (although still solidly 9a).
362:
544: (5.15a). In fact, Huber attributes the initial conservative
422:
at the very end, where I still fell several times before sending".
1036:, with only 4 crux moves, was actually the world's first climb at
429:
1808:"Felix Knaub hat "Action directe" (11) im Frankenjura geklettert"
1955:"Simon Lorenzi enchaîne "Action Directe", son premier 9a !"
1455:
820:
2020:"This Climber Crushes the Notoriously Difficult Action Directe"
914:
Lowell, Josh (director), Mortimer, Peter (director) (2020).
48:
are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the
2101:"Stefano Ghisolfi Sends the Legendary Action Directe 5.14d"
1888:"Stefano Carnati Sends Action Directe (5.14d), Frankenjura"
1547:"Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview"
460:
Güllich had used new intensive training techniques called
481:, with only 4 crux moves, was actually the world's first
449:
has also been described as "Güllich's masterpiece" – the
287:
also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.
1576:"Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview"
259:, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber
1026:
Some climbers have speculated whether
English climber
969:, second climb in the world with a consensus grade of
1005:, first climb in the world with a consensus grade of
993:, first climb in the world with a consensus grade of
981:, first climb in the world with a potential grade of
957:, first climb in the world with a potential grade of
871:
Rock
Climbing Classics: Episode 2 – Action Directe 9a
851:(Motion picture). Frontier Spirits Productions. 2006
308:as climbing it felt like an attack on the fingers.
218:
210:
188:
178:
170:
160:
142:
103:
89:
28:
1994:"Legendarne "Action Directe" dla Adriana Chmiały!"
1784:. Serwis Wspinaczkowy wspinanie.pl. Archived from
1086:"Ascending 'Action Directe' in the past and today"
1298:"Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Action Directe (9a/5.14d)"
1835:"Felix Neumärker Repeats Two 9a's in Three Days"
1737:"Adam Ondra repeats Action Directe, Frankenjura"
1689:"Action Directe 5.14d is Repeated for 30th Time"
1456:"Huch accuses Belhaj to lie about Action Direct"
1118:"Was Ben Moon's Hubble the World's First 5.14d?"
2048:"Action Directe 5.14d Sent by Top U.K. Climber"
1368:"Use Your Curiosity To Become A Better Climber"
1195:"Action Directe, World's First 5.14d, Turns 25"
2139:Adam Ondra, 15, Repeats Action Directe (video)
1980:""Action Directe" (5.14d) by Stefan Scarperi"
1860:Toni Lonobile for Wildclimb (June 27, 2015).
471:Some have speculated whether English climber
8:
1625:
1623:
501:, is one of the few who have climbed both
25:
1780:Wojciech Słowakiewicz (10 October 2010).
1044:was already considered the world's first
948:List of grade milestones in rock climbing
891:Funke, Alexej (director) (October 2017).
1398:"Rich Simpson & The Burden Of Proof"
868:Falquet, Nicolas (director) (May 2014).
485: (5.14d) route. Repeat ascents of
78:Map showing the approximate location of
1916:"Action Directe 9a by David Firnenburg"
1682:
1680:
1450:
1448:
1061:
1019:
578:1st Wolfgang Güllich, 14 September 1991
517:The situation has been compared to the
369: (5.15a) grade would be assigned.
1941:Stephan Vogt bezwingt »Action Directe«
1570:
1568:
1541:
1539:
1512:
1510:
1508:
1506:
1479:
1477:
1421:
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1392:
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1361:
1359:
1357:
1237:Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012).
70:
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1320:
1189:
1187:
1185:
1183:
1159:
1112:
1110:
1108:
1106:
623:6th Richard Simpson, 2005 (disputed)
445:coveted sport climbs in the world".
242:
7:
1715:"Action Directe: It's a Trade Route"
1630:Miller, Delaney (10 November 2022).
1366:Honneger, Jasmine (26 August 2022).
1291:
1289:
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1157:
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275:is considered an important route in
1782:"Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!"
1658:Hobley, Nicholas (3 October 2008).
1030:'s 1990 ascent of the even shorter
897:(Motion picture). Mad Rock Climbing
247:) is a short 15-metre (49 ft)
730:19th Julius Westphal, 25 June 2015
331:Güllich conservatively assigned a
14:
1713:Dougald MacDonald (30 May 2012).
1264:"Chris Sharma climbs Biographie!"
771:24th Said Belhaj, 2018 (disputed)
727:18th Felix Neumärker, 16 May 2015
475:'s 1990 ascent of the very short
2099:Pardy, Aaron (4 November 2023).
2074:"Vojta Tojan: Action Directe 9a"
1687:Pardy, Aaron (16 October 2023).
1239:"The evolution of free climbing"
801:29th Buster Martin, October 2022
69:
62:
34:
1862:"Interview of Julius Westphal!"
1427:"Rich Simpson - UKC's Position"
804:30th Vojtěch Trojan, April 2023
788:26th Adrian Chmiała, 5 May 2019
497: (5.14c). German climber
372:On 22 May 2020, French climber
335:grade of XI, which was between
44:that are visible on the photo (
21:Action Directe (disambiguation)
16:Sport climbing route in Germany
1296:Slavsky, Brett (26 May 2020).
807:31st Moritz Welt, October 2023
703:15th Felix Knaub, October 2011
1:
1833:ClimbingNews (May 26, 2015).
798:28th Phillip Gaßner, May 2021
889:Stephan Vogt's 2017 ascent:
540:debate on the world's first
319:into a two-finger pocket to
1957:(in French). Archived from
1761:. Rock and Ice. 21 May 2014
1660:"Alexander Huber interview"
819:First female free ascents (
2187:
1943:, retrieved 6th April 2017
1084:Firnenburg, David (2016).
489:have verified it as being
365:, that a higher consensus
18:
866:'s 2014 (second) ascent:
548: (5.14c) grading of
57:
33:
943:History of rock climbing
795:, May 2020; first female
761:22nd Stephan Vogt, 2017.
378:first female free ascent
265:first climb in the world
263:in 1991, it became the
40:The route follows five
2166:1991 in sport climbing
1090:firnenburgbrothers.com
990:Realization/Biographie
573:has been ascended by:
438:
354:Realization/Biographie
311:Güllich completed the
244:[aksjɔ̄diʁɛkt]
2161:Sport climbing routes
1841:on September 11, 2015
433:
277:rock climbing history
271: (5.14d) grade.
174:15-metre (49 ft)
127:49.63444°N 11.60250°E
1814:on November 12, 2011
611:Christian Bindhammer
267:to have a consensus
227:, 14 September 1991.
19:For other uses, see
2171:Climbing in Germany
1201:. 14 September 2016
351:freed the 35-metre
281:plyometric training
123: /
1982:. 6 November 2018.
1868:on January 7, 2016
1788:on 15 October 2010
1664:PlanetMountain.com
1608:. 24 December 2020
1580:PlanetMountain.com
1551:PlanetMountain.com
1522:PlanetMountain.com
1491:. 12 December 2019
1433:. 21 December 2010
1404:. 21 December 2010
1268:PlanetMountain.com
1243:PlanetMountain.com
920:(Motion picture).
874:(Motion picture).
785:, 2 November 2018.
585:, 9 September 1995
493:the world's first
439:
339: (5.14c) and
132:49.63444; 11.60250
2054:. 12 October 2022
1922:. 3 November 2016
1739:. Planet Mountain
1462:. 7 December 2019
1168:. Planet Mountain
1164:Nicholas Hobley.
1124:. 9 November 2020
700:, 10 October 2010
665:, 24 October 2008
649:Kilian Fischhuber
644:, 22 October 2005
630:, 15 October 2005
437:on Action Directe
313:first free ascent
255:Waldkopf crag in
231:
230:
220:First free ascent
148:Krottenseer Forst
2178:
2116:
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2113:
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2105:Gripped Magazine
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928:
912:'s 2020 ascent:
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856:
844:'s 2005 ascent:
812:Stefano Ghisolfi
784:
757:
749:David Firnenburg
743:
716:
699:
678:
651:, September 2006
643:
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261:Wolfgang Güllich
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2080:. 29 April 2023
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1040: (5.14d);
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1021:
1016:
939:
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910:Mélissa Le Nevé
900:
898:
894:The Fire Within
890:
880:
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845:
838:
829:Mélissa Le Nevé
817:
814:, November 2023
793:Mélissa Le Nevé
778:
776:Stefan Scarperi
758:, November 2016
751:
737:
735:Stefano Carnati
722:Alexander Megos
717:, 26 March 2012
710:
708:Rustam Gelmanov
693:
679:, 17 April 2010
672:
670:Gabriele Moroni
637:
613:
592:
583:Alexander Adler
568:
532:
525:Alexander Huber
428:
386:
374:Mélissa Le Nevé
293:
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146:Waldkopf crag,
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2129:Action Directe
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2123:External links
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2011:
1985:
1971:
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1933:
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1896:. 15 June 2016
1893:Rock & Ice
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1717:. Climbing.com
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1431:UKClimbing.com
1415:
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1339:Rock & Ice
1316:
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1270:. 19 July 2001
1255:
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1048: (5.14c).
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848:Action Directe
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744:, 14 June 2016
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691:Adam Pustelnik
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663:Patxi Usobiaga
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2000:. 5 May 2019
1998:wspinanie.pl
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1866:the original
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1818:November 23,
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1786:the original
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1579:
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1553:. 6 May 2014
1550:
1526:. Retrieved
1521:
1493:. Retrieved
1488:
1464:. Retrieved
1459:
1435:. Retrieved
1430:
1406:. Retrieved
1402:Climbing Arc
1401:
1377:. Retrieved
1371:
1344:. Retrieved
1337:
1307:. Retrieved
1301:
1272:. Retrieved
1267:
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1172:December 27,
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966:La Dura Dura
964:
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922:Sender Films
916:
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847:
842:Dai Koyamada
818:
724:, 3 May 2014
628:Dai Koyamada
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50:belay anchor
2133:Hard Climbs
2110:13 November
2052:Gripped.com
2032:27 December
2004:9 September
1926:27 December
1900:27 December
1669:27 December
1643:20 November
1612:27 December
1586:27 December
1557:27 December
1528:27 December
1495:27 December
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1408:27 December
1379:9 September
1346:27 December
1309:27 December
1274:22 December
1205:27 December
1199:Gripped.com
1128:27 December
1122:Gripped.com
1095:27 December
927:27 December
917:ReelRock 15
901:27 December
881:27 December
855:27 December
836:Filmography
779: [
752: [
738: [
711: [
694: [
673: [
638: [
635:Markus Bock
614: [
604:Dave Graham
593: [
560:Weisse Rose
533: [
520:Realization
509:, and felt
462:plyometrics
257:Frankenjura
249:sport climb
165:Sport Climb
151: [
130: /
105:Coordinates
94:Frankenjura
2155:Categories
2147:(May 2008)
2058:5 November
1965:2017-05-15
1792:12 October
1698:6 December
1606:LACrux.com
1489:lacrux.com
1056:References
978:Jumbo Love
831:, May 2020
656:Adam Ondra
499:Alex Megos
435:Alex Megos
397:bouldering
161:Route type
118:11°36′09″E
115:49°38′04″N
46:quickdraws
1765:March 15,
1743:March 15,
1721:March 15,
1248:4 January
1227:, S. 125.
864:Jan Hojer
684:Jan Hojer
555:La Rambla
451:testpiece
412:lock-offs
376:made the
253:limestone
211:Bolted by
2144:Climbing
2084:29 April
2078:Lezec.cz
2025:Climbing
1872:June 27,
1637:Climbing
1373:Climbing
1303:Climbing
1028:Ben Moon
937:See also
590:Iker Pou
530:Open Air
491:at least
473:Ben Moon
401:slightly
321:redpoint
90:Location
1845:May 26,
954:Silence
566:Ascents
523:versus
416:pinches
291:History
251:at the
240:French:
198:), XI (
180:Pitches
98:Germany
2135:(2023)
1223:
1042:Hubble
1033:Hubble
1002:Hubble
876:Mammut
768:, 2017
558:, and
511:Hubble
503:Hubble
487:Hubble
478:Hubble
426:Legacy
363:France
196:French
190:Rating
1920:8a.nu
1460:8a.nu
1014:Notes
827:1st.
810:32nd
791:27th
783:]
774:25th
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682:13th
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420:crimp
393:dynos
384:Route
359:Céüse
155:]
42:bolts
2112:2023
2086:2023
2060:2022
2034:2021
2006:2022
1928:2021
1902:2021
1874:2015
1847:2015
1820:2011
1794:2010
1767:2018
1745:2018
1723:2018
1700:2023
1671:2021
1645:2022
1614:2021
1588:2021
1559:2021
1530:2021
1497:2021
1468:2021
1439:2021
1410:2021
1381:2022
1348:2021
1311:2021
1276:2021
1250:2022
1221:ISBN
1207:2021
1174:2021
1130:2021
1097:2021
929:2021
903:2021
883:2021
857:2021
821:FFFA
647:9th
633:8th
626:7th
609:5th
602:4th
588:3rd
581:2nd
505:and
453:for
408:dyno
333:UIAA
301:UIAA
297:crag
200:UIAA
194:9a (
1046:8c+
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971:9b+
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546:8c+
542:9a+
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495:8c+
395:in
367:9a+
361:in
357:at
337:8c+
204:YDS
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238:(
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184:1
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