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other purposes, such as building an anchor or use in natural protection. The softer sling of an alpine draw may be considered superior to the stiffer dogbone of most quick draws as it causes less perturbation of traditional protection and may reduce the chance of the rope unclipping itself from the carabiner.
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The methods by which a quickdraw maintains gate orientation vary. The most popular method involves the use of an elastic polymer band around the outside of the point of connection between the carabiner and the semi-rigid material. The elastic band should only be installed on the rope-end, and not on
123:
While historically the orientation of the gates varied, it is now generally recommended that both gates face the same direction, and that the quickdraw is clipped with both gates facing away from the climber's path. This lessens the chances of the carabiner getting "nose-hooked" and breaking, or of
88:
connected by a semi-rigid material (sometimes called the "dogbone"). One carabiner has a straight gate and connects to an anchoring device. The other carabiner is for the climbing rope, and uses a bent gate. Quickdraws are manufactured with either a solid carabiner gate or a wire carabiner gate for
141:
Alpine quick draws feature long slings wrapped or folded multiple times to save space on a climbers harness in place of a dogbone. Alpine draws are often used to extend pieces of protection and reduce rope drag but may also be attached to the harness simply as a convenient way to store slings for
132:
A permadraw is a quickdraw that is made from steel cable that has steel carabiners and remains permanently attached to the bolts. Developed in places such as Rifle
Mountain Park in Colorado as a safer alternative; steel is much harder-wearing than the aluminum used in normal quickdraws. In
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These two attributes differentiate a quickdraw from other types of runners. These two attributes are what makes this special type of runner "quick" to "draw". If either of these two elements is missing the runner is not a "quickdraw".
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The carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel. ... The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no STRING). The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with STRING).
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The material that connects the 2 carabiners is semi-rigid. It is not as flexible as an open loop of webbing. This rigidity facilitates quicker clipping to an anchoring device.
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safer to keep the gates facing the same way ... it's safest to keep the bottom carabiner fixed to the QD's webbing with tape or a rubber O-ring, but not the top biner
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the anchor end. The elastic band is not a load-bearing element, and the carabiner must pass through the dogbone to hold body weight. Incorrect assembly has led to
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A quickdraw is a specific type of runner. Runners are used by rock and ice climbers to extend the distance between an anchoring device and the rope.
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The gate (on the carabiner that clips to a rope) is held in a specific orientation that facilitates quicker clipping to a rope.
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A quickdraw is differentiated from a simple open loop of webbing with 2 carabiners on it by the following attributes:
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In most situations ... the gates of both carabiners should face away from the direction of travel of the climber.
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The principle is that the gates must always be pointing in the opposite direction to the climbing route
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addition, unlike quickdraws, climbers don't need to retrieve the permadraws at the end of a climb.
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Two quickdraws. The upper has a solid bent gate for the rope and the lower a wire gate for it.
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Rock climbing : technique, equipment, safety, with an introduction to indoor climbing
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This article is about the climbing equipment. For other uses, see
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either carabiner unclipping, during a fall or due to rope drag.
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Piece of climbing equipment used by rock and ice climbers
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Heise-Flecken, Detlef; Flecken, Gabi (28 March 2016).
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Federación Española de
Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
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International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
432:. No. September 2023. Sydney Rockclimbing Club.
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336:: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (
403:"Essential Skills: The Alpine Quickdraw"
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375:Bisharat, Andrew (16 September 2014).
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447:How to select Quickdraws for Climbing
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377:"Blue Steel: A Permadraw Solution"
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1850:South African Climbing Federation
428:"Unclipping (and cams failing)".
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822:IFSC World Championships winners
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305:. Aachen, Germany. p. 119.
248:Van Leuven, Chris (2014-06-27).
194:(1 ed.). Stackpole Books.
61:climbers to allow the climbing
1820:British Mountaineering Council
351:Michaël Andries (2013-07-11),
1:
186:Hattingh, Garth (July 1998).
282:"Metolius carabiners manual"
84:A quickdraw consists of two
163:"Prevent Quickdraw Failure"
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21:Quickdraw (disambiguation)
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1725:Mountain Safety Research
1720:Mountain Equipment Co-op
1855:South Tyrol Alpine Club
1650:Eastern Mountain Sports
1516:Canadian Alpine Journal
1509:American Alpine Journal
772:Roof and tunnel hacking
1675:Holubar Mountaineering
1487:Magazines and journals
817:IFSC World Cup winners
190:The Climber's Handbook
65:to run freely through
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1710:Marmot Mountain Works
1665:GERRY Mountain Sports
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460:at Wikimedia Commons
401:Macdonald, Dougald.
89:its lighter weight.
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1199:Mountaineering boot
812:Piolet d'Or winners
1981:Climbing equipment
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250:"Face Those Gates"
118:at least one death
51:climbing equipment
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1865:USA Climbing
1765:Wild Country
1760:Therm-a-Rest
1602:
1595:
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1576:The Alpinist
1574:
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1542:
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1455:Campus board
1410:First ascent
1154:Ice and snow
1099:
951:Belay device
802:Alpine clubs
762:Ropes course
675:Alpine style
429:
423:
411:. Retrieved
407:Climbing.com
406:
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384:. Retrieved
381:EveningSends
380:
370:
360:, retrieved
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258:the original
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71:bolt anchors
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1959:WikiProject
1795:Alpine Club
1790:Access Fund
1700:Lowe Alpine
1695:La Sportiva
1432:Fall factor
1325:Self-arrest
1301:Redpointing
1224:Snow anchor
978:Boulder mat
927:Daisy chain
897:Terminology
888:Terminology
767:Rooftopping
709:Hillwalking
697:Dry-tooling
663:Via ferrata
576:Traditional
554:Competition
535:Multi-pitch
518:Disciplines
413:10 November
137:Alpine draw
1975:Categories
1583:El Capitan
1347:Traversing
1296:Onsighting
1276:Glissading
1259:Dülfersitz
1254:Australian
1217:Transeiver
1162:Alpenstock
1095:Portaledge
1083:Copperhead
1022:Descenders
956:Auto belay
747:Commercial
727:Buildering
704:Scrambling
614:Rock types
605:Top roping
542:Bouldering
458:Quickdraws
362:2018-08-14
264:2018-08-14
228:2018-08-14
172:2018-08-14
146:References
86:carabiners
67:protection
1735:Patagonia
1618:Companies
1604:Hard Grit
1597:Free Solo
1465:MoonBoard
1460:Hangboard
1446:Training
1395:Guidebook
1370:Ape index
1335:Rope team
1249:Abseiling
1194:Ice screw
1100:Quickdraw
983:Carabiner
905:Equipment
883:Technique
849:Equipment
732:Canyoning
670:Himalayan
598:Rope solo
588:Free solo
409:. Outside
332:cite book
321:903189054
223:Petzl USA
128:Permadraw
73:or other
43:quickdraw
1935:Category
1782:National
1680:JanSport
1655:Five Ten
1530:Desnivel
1523:Climbing
1502:Alpinist
1427:Exposure
1405:Chipping
1352:Tyrolean
1342:Spotting
1313:Crevasse
1291:Flashing
1281:Jumaring
1266:Belaying
1229:Snowshoe
1187:Ice tool
1177:Crampons
1027:Figure-8
939:Ascender
807:Climbers
547:Highball
530:Big wall
495:Climbing
386:10 March
69:such as
53:used by
47:extender
1947:Commons
1901:(UIMLA)
1895:(UIAGM)
1286:Leading
1203:Rescue
1182:Ice axe
1132:Camalot
1066:Lanyard
1049:Skyhook
1034:Harness
1005:Dynamic
988:Maillon
961:Glasses
842:Everest
833:Deaths
752:Parkour
430:Thrutch
357:YouTube
254:Spadout
79:leading
1923:Portal
1889:(UIAA)
1883:(IFSC)
1715:Millet
1705:Mammut
1670:Grivel
1640:Deuter
1558:Summit
1442:Guides
1437:Grades
1308:Rescue
1242:Action
1144:Tricam
1110:Grigri
1056:Hammer
1010:Static
966:Gloves
934:Anchor
854:Brands
658:Alpine
319:
309:
198:
77:while
1740:Petzl
1690:Kelty
1480:Media
1415:Pitch
1380:Clean
1363:Other
1212:RECCO
1139:Shoes
1127:SLCDs
1122:Sling
1090:Piton
1039:Hooks
1017:Chalk
944:Croll
922:Aider
859:Knots
795:Lists
777:Slide
742:Grass
737:Crane
720:Other
692:Mixed
621:Crack
571:Sport
559:Speed
502:Types
285:(PDF)
1630:CAMP
1420:Topo
1390:Beta
1318:Self
1115:Revo
1105:SLDs
1044:Fifi
1000:Cord
973:Bolt
914:Rock
782:Tree
757:Pole
636:Slab
631:Roof
626:Face
583:Solo
566:Free
415:2023
388:2023
338:link
317:OCLC
307:ISBN
196:ISBN
63:rope
57:and
55:rock
1750:REI
1745:Rab
1078:Nut
1071:PAC
1061:Hex
687:Ice
525:Aid
93:Use
59:ice
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