108:
33:
161:
in 1895 proved ill-fated; Mummery and both
Gurkhas died in an avalanche whilst reconnoitering the mountain's Rakhiot Face. The first man to summit on Nanga Parbat, the legendary Austrian mountaineer
314:
It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak - The most difficult ascent in the Alps - An easy day for a lady.
189:(1889), which argued that because of economies' tendencies towards over-saving - and this being a cause of depressions – the economy required intervention to achieve stability.
285:, the ninth highest mountain in the world. On this pioneering lightweight expedition, the mountain claimed the first of its many victims, when Mummery and two
371:
253:
293:
while reconnoitering the
Rakhiot Face. Their bodies were never found. The story of this disastrous expedition is told in J. Norman Collie's book
358:
544:
274:, being forced back by some difficult slabs. This provoked Mummery to exclaim prophetically: 'Absolutely inaccessible by fair means!'
554:
478:
459:
539:
549:
306:
559:
134:), was an English mountaineer and author. Although most notable for his many and varied first ascents put up in the
107:
213:
he was part of the movement which revolutionized alpinism by the practice of guideless climbing. He invented the
304:
Mummery left behind him a legacy of some of the most well-regarded routes in the Alps, and also, in his book
202:
177:. The tanning business was prosperous enough for Mummery to devote most of his energies to climbing and
270:
In 1880, Mummery and
Burgener were repelled while trying to make the first ascent of the much-coveted
534:
529:
197:
Mummery is best remembered for his pioneering efforts in mountaineering. Initially, he climbed with
494:
249:
474:
455:
425:
354:
229:
206:
151:
143:
278:
271:
210:
150:
are also the first men in recorded history to have attempted to summit one of the
Himalayan
139:
260:
218:
198:
182:
90:
232:(which features a crack named after him), the Dent du Requin, the Grands Charmoz, the
523:
488:
Arnette, Alan. "Bodies of
Missing Climbers found on Nanga Parbat". Outsideonline.com.
298:
241:
79:
342:
282:
264:
225:
214:
162:
158:
131:
75:
237:
513:
346:
245:
277:
In 1895, Collie, Hastings and
Mummery were the first climbers to attempt the
350:
290:
178:
32:
400:
165:, described Mummery as "one of the greatest mountaineers of all time".
147:
127:
57:
286:
252:, J. Petrus and A. Gentinetta. In 1894, he led his friend, the young
174:
119:
53:
135:
123:
310:, one of the enduring classics of mountaineering literature.
319:
Albert
Frederick Mummery, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus
289:, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, fell and were killed by an
512:
Peter H. Hansen, ‘Mummery, Albert
Frederick (1855–1895)’,
248:, which he ascended on 3 September 1879 with the guides
301:
in the
Canadian Rockies after his climbing companion.
97:
86:
64:
39:
23:
256:, to the top of the Matterhorn by the same route.
370:Bleaney, M (1998) Mummery, Albert Frederick: in
312:
353:, a cura di Kurt Diemberger, Corbaccio, 2007,
157:Their innovative, light-weight endeavour upon
8:
259:Mummery occasionally climbed with his wife
217:, a type of tent used in the early days of
173:Mummery's father was a tanner and mayor of
31:
20:
16:English mountaineer and author (1855–1895)
386:Dumler, Helmut, and Willi P. Burkhardt,
372:The New Palgrave Dictionary of Economics
106:
514:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
330:
7:
495:"Moro: The Mummery Spur is suicidal"
471:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus
428:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus
307:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus
14:
341:, con i diari alle spedizioni al
111:Albert F. Mummery, mountaineering
493:Nestler, Stefan (5 March 2019).
516:, Oxford University Press, 2004
224:He made a series of remarkable
440:(3531): 831–832. 29 June 1895.
388:The High Mountains of the Alps
1:
390:(London: Diadem, 1994) p. 179
244:and the Zmutt ridge of the
185:, and they collaborated on
576:
450:Collie, J. Norman (2003).
279:Himalayan 8,000 metre peak
201:, but with his companions
187:The Physiology of Industry
545:English mountain climbers
452:From the Himalaya to Skye
295:From the Himalaya to Skye
30:
555:Sport deaths in Pakistan
432:The Alps from End to End
297:. In 1898, Collie named
181:. He became a friend of
130:– 24 August 1895,
116:Albert Frederick Mummery
540:Deaths on Nanga Parbat
469:Mummery, A. F (2004).
405:cdnrockiesdatabases.ca
322:
203:William Cecil Slingsby
138:, Mummery, along with
112:
550:Mountaineering deaths
501:. Adventure Mountain.
434:by Sir Martin Conway"
430:by A. F. Mummery and
361:; pag. 243 e pag. 261
339:È buio sul ghiacciaio
263:, or with her friend
110:
560:Deaths in avalanches
118:(10 September 1855,
473:. Rockbuy Limited.
454:. Rockbuy Limited.
254:Duke of the Abruzzi
228:, most notably the
250:Alexander Burgener
230:Aiguille du Grépon
113:
499:abenteuer-berg.de
359:978-88-7972-871-3
207:Geoffrey Hastings
152:eight-thousanders
144:Geoffrey Hastings
105:
104:
50:10 September 1855
25:Albert F. Mummery
567:
502:
489:
484:
465:
442:
441:
422:
416:
415:
413:
411:
397:
391:
384:
378:
368:
362:
335:
320:
211:J. Norman Collie
140:J. Norman Collie
71:
49:
47:
35:
21:
575:
574:
570:
569:
568:
566:
565:
564:
520:
519:
509:
492:
487:
481:
468:
462:
449:
446:
445:
424:
423:
419:
409:
407:
401:"Mount Mummery"
399:
398:
394:
385:
381:
369:
365:
336:
332:
327:
321:
318:
199:mountain guides
195:
171:
82:
73:
69:
60:
51:
45:
43:
26:
17:
12:
11:
5:
573:
571:
563:
562:
557:
552:
547:
542:
537:
532:
522:
521:
518:
517:
508:
507:External links
505:
504:
503:
490:
485:
479:
466:
460:
444:
443:
417:
392:
379:
374:. eds Eatwell
363:
337:Hermann Buhl,
329:
328:
326:
323:
316:
261:Mary Petherick
219:mountaineering
194:
191:
170:
167:
103:
102:
99:
95:
94:
88:
84:
83:
74:
72:(aged 39)
68:24 August 1895
66:
62:
61:
52:
41:
37:
36:
28:
27:
24:
15:
13:
10:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
572:
561:
558:
556:
553:
551:
548:
546:
543:
541:
538:
536:
533:
531:
528:
527:
525:
515:
511:
510:
506:
500:
496:
491:
486:
482:
480:1-904466-09-5
476:
472:
467:
463:
461:1-904466-08-7
457:
453:
448:
447:
439:
438:The Athenaeum
435:
433:
429:
421:
418:
406:
402:
396:
393:
389:
383:
380:
377:
373:
367:
364:
360:
356:
352:
348:
344:
340:
334:
331:
324:
315:
311:
309:
308:
302:
300:
299:Mount Mummery
296:
292:
288:
284:
280:
275:
273:
272:Dent du Géant
268:
266:
262:
257:
255:
251:
247:
243:
239:
235:
231:
227:
226:first ascents
222:
220:
216:
212:
208:
204:
200:
192:
190:
188:
184:
180:
176:
168:
166:
164:
160:
155:
153:
149:
145:
141:
137:
133:
129:
125:
121:
117:
109:
100:
96:
92:
89:
87:Occupation(s)
85:
81:
80:British India
77:
67:
63:
59:
55:
42:
38:
34:
29:
22:
19:
498:
470:
451:
437:
431:
427:
420:
408:. Retrieved
404:
395:
387:
382:
375:
366:
343:Nanga Parbat
338:
333:
313:
305:
303:
294:
283:Nanga Parbat
276:
269:
265:Lily Bristow
258:
233:
223:
215:Mummery tent
196:
186:
183:J. A. Hobson
172:
163:Hermann Buhl
159:Nanga Parbat
156:
132:Nanga Parbat
115:
114:
76:Nanga Parbat
70:(1895-08-24)
18:
535:1895 deaths
530:1855 births
426:"Review of
234:Teufelsgrat
193:Mountaineer
91:Mountaineer
524:Categories
410:10 January
347:Broad Peak
325:References
246:Matterhorn
242:Dürrenhorn
146:, and two
46:1855-09-10
351:Chogolisa
291:avalanche
238:Täschhorn
179:economics
317:—
93:, author
287:Gurkhas
236:on the
148:Gurkhas
128:England
58:England
477:
458:
357:
240:, the
98:Spouse
376:et al
349:e al
345:, al
175:Dover
120:Dover
54:Dover
475:ISBN
456:ISBN
412:2020
355:ISBN
209:and
169:Life
136:Alps
124:Kent
101:Mary
65:Died
40:Born
526::
497:.
436:.
403:.
281:,
267:.
221:.
205:,
154:.
142:,
126:,
122:,
78:,
56:,
483:.
464:.
414:.
48:)
44:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.