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as "key catalysts in driving scientific thinking into climbing big peaks. His studies included the physiology of acclimatization in relationship to important variables like altitude, barometric pressures, alveolar PO2, arterial oxygen saturation, maximum oxygen consumption, and ascent rates at
249:. However, Kellas was also one of the earliest scientists to suggest use of supplemental oxygen on high mountains such as Mount Everest; the first ascent of Everest and most subsequent ascents (as well as some ascents of lower peaks) have done so.
341:, Kolkata Section, Himalayan Club, 2006; 160 pages. (Commemorating 75 years after the first ascent; an exhaustive anthology of articles by famous mountaineers, plus maps, routes and rare historical photographs, including those taken by
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could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental constitution without supplementary oxygen if the physical difficulties of the mountain were not too great."
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George W. Rodway and Ian R Mitchell (2011) Prelude to
Everest; Alexander Kellas (Luath Press); a full-length biography of Kellas.
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Kellas was a noted mountaineer. He had made at least ten first ascents of peaks over 6,100 m (20,000 ft) including
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in 1921 near the village of Kampa Dzong, Tibet, on his way from Sikkim to the
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and was only a day's hike away from seeing Mount
Everest for the first time.
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Meher Mehta (Vice
President, Himalayan Club), "The Lure of Kamet," in the
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Himalayan Club Vice
President Meher Mehta characterized Kellas' papers
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Alexander M. Kellas: seeking early solutions to the problem of
Everest
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when they made the first ascent of Mount
Everest without supplemental
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A Consideration of the
Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya
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A M Kellas: Pioneer
Himalayan Physiologist and Mountaineer
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A Consideration of the
Possibility of Ascending Mt Everest
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High Asia: An illustrated guide to the 7,000 metre peaks
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British chemist, explorer, and mountaineer (1868–1921)
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was only broken in
September 1928 with the ascent of
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394:, The Britain-Nepal Society Journal, 27, 17-20.
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237:In 1978, Kellas' suggestion was verified by
225:different altitudes. He had concluded that
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287:List of mountains first climbed by Kellas
69:Learn how and when to remove this message
32:This article includes a list of general
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421:High-altitude physiology researchers
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183:(21 June 1868 – 5 June 1921) was a
38:it lacks sufficient corresponding
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387:, The Alpine Journal xx, 207-213.
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194:known for his studies of high-
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436:Scottish medical researchers
339:Kamet Commemorative Souvenir
277:first expedition to Everest
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441:Scottish mountain climbers
320:, The Mountaineers, 1989,
181:Alexander Mitchell Kellas
106:Alexander Mitchell Kellas
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390:George W. Rodway (2003)
53:more precise citations.
383:John B West (1989)
360:, 17 November 2010"
262:world summit record
209:Kellas was born in
147:Cause of death
136:Shigatse Prefecture
431:Scottish explorers
358:Caledonian Mercury
211:Aberdeen, Scotland
113:Aberdeen, Scotland
426:Scottish chemists
271:Kellas died of a
213:on 21 June 1868.
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368:. Retrieved
364:the original
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273:heart attack
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151:Asphyxiation
125:(1921-06-05)
123:June 5, 1921
109:21 June 1868
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416:1921 deaths
411:1868 births
298:Chomo Yummo
192:mountaineer
170:mountaineer
157:Occupations
132:Kampa Dzong
51:introducing
405:Categories
304:References
266:Lenin Peak
199:physiology
59:March 2024
34:references
205:Biography
293:Pauhunri
254:Pauhunri
196:altitude
166:explorer
188:chemist
185:British
163:Chemist
47:improve
370:23 May
324:
258:Sikkim
247:oxygen
233:Legacy
36:, but
281:Kabru
140:China
130:near
372:2014
322:ISBN
241:and
220:and
120:Died
102:Born
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