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in 1951: "The ascent of this wall was probably the toughest that either of us had ever made, or ever hoped to make again. Though John has 51 years to my 24, the climb seemed to have little effect on his endurance; only toward the end of the third day, did he seem to show signs of wear, but then both
308:
His 75th birthday was marked by meeting up with a large group of friends at Red Rocks, climbing classics like the
Crimson Crysalis, Lotta Balls and the chimneys of Epinephrine. Allen also gave a slide show at Desert Rock Sports of the first ascent of the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan - slides that
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located on the border between the Yukon and Alaska, a climb that took 35 days. The climb has never been repeated, despite numerous attempts, and is considered among the most challenging climbs in mountaineering history for that reason. Mount Logan is the second-highest peak in North
America. He was
248:
and was called the
California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. This was the first major American mountaineering expedition to the Himalaya. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms, as well as food shortages and lack of
228:
In 1952, he went to work at a
Berkeley ski, mountaineering and backpacking store called The Ski Hut, and later worked for their equipment manufacturing division Trailwise. He specialized in sleeping bag design.
362:
753:
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on May 17, 1926. He started climbing with his brother George. In 1940 when Allen was 14, the two completed the first ascent of the northwest ridge of
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by trial and error. He said that at that time, there "was no body of people who could help you learn these things." He has been a Life Member of the
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rated III 5.8, described as "the most striking feature on the northeast face of the mountain" and "one of the most aesthetic lines in the Sierra."
213:
100:
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139:(12,886 feet (3,928 m)). He served in the U.S. Navy during World War II. Discharged in 1946, he joined the Rock Climbing Section of the
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At 86, Steck was still gym climbing twice a week, public speaking, and occasionally visiting the high peaks.
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Allen celebrated his 70th birthday by reascending the Steck-Salathé Route. His nickname is "the Silver Fox."
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In 1969, he co-founded
Mountain Travel with Leo LeBon. The company is now known as Mountain Travel Sobek.
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of us were ready to acknowledge the pleasures of simple back country hiking. It was just too damned hot".
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In July, 1970, Steck and Doug
Robinson completed the first ascent of the "Doors of Perception" route on
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On June 22, 1963, he completed the first ascent of the 1,000-foot (300 m) Southeast Face of
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accompanied to the summit by Dick Long, John Evans, Jim Wilson, Frank Coale and Paul Bacon.
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181:, completing the first ascent by an American of the Comici route on the north face of the
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in
Yosemite Valley. Steck described the climb in an article originally published in the
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In 1995, he won the
American Alpine Club's Literary Award for co-authoring
192:
259:
On August 6, 1965, he completed the first ascent of
Hummingbird Ridge on
256:(12,281 feet (3,743 m)) with Dick Long, John Evans and Chuck Wilts.
289:, which was originally published by the Sierra Club and later by the
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in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of members of the
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Brower, David, ed. (November 1947). "The Sierra Club: A Handbook".
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151:, majoring in German. His early climbing influences included
285:, he was the long-time editor of the mountaineering journal
583:. Seattle, WA: The Mountaineers. pp. 189 and 201.
542:, pp. 288–93 (Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1979)
562:, pp. 37–41 (Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1979)
452:, pp. 243–8 (Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1979)
365:. U.S., World War II Draft Cards Young Men, 1940–1947
322:Steck died on February 23, 2023, at the age of 96.
115:(May 17, 1926 – February 23, 2023) was an American
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477:. Berkeley, CA: Wilderness Press. pp. 21–28.
334:, he was the first recipient of the Sierra Club's
189:together with his Austrian friend Karl Lugmayer.
16:American mountaineer and rock climber (1926–2023)
579:Porcella, Stephen F.; Burns, Cameron M. (1998).
143:, and began climbing on Berkeley crags such as
216:up the 1,600-foot (490 m) north face of
8:
469:Steck, Allen (1995) . "Ordeal by Piton". In
19:
710:, (Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1979)
309:had been in storage since the early 1960s.
232:Steck participated in the first attempt on
675:"Legendary Climber Allen Steck Dies at 97"
240:which was made by an American team led by
18:
516:Duane, Daniel (September–October 2005).
336:Francis P. Farquhar Mountaineering Award
354:
166:in 1947, initially learning the use of
418:(10). San Francisco: Sierra Club: 104.
319:, was published by Patagonia in 2017.
293:. Steck and Roper also wrote the book
708:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
605:"Mountain Travel Sobek: Our Heritage"
560:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
540:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
499:"Trailwise Ski Hut Berkeley products"
450:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
343:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
295:Fifty Classic Climbs of North America
7:
263:(19,850 feet (6,050 m)) in the
643:A Mountaineer's Life by Allen Steck
212:, he completed the first ascent of
208:From June 30 to July 4, 1950, with
101:Steck-Salathé Route (Sentinel Rock)
754:Military personnel from California
696:Sierra Club Awards – List by Award
149:University of California, Berkeley
14:
581:Climbing California's Fourteeners
147:and Cragmont. He enrolled at the
196:Sentinel Rock in Yosemite Valley
759:People from Oakland, California
706:Roper, Steve and Steck, Allen,
558:Roper, Steve and Steck, Allen,
538:Roper, Steve and Steck, Allen,
448:Roper, Steve and Steck, Allen,
475:The Vertical World of Yosemite
389:Berkeley Ironworks on Facebook
92:Southeast Face (Clyde Minaret)
1:
385:"Allen Steck Turns 89 at BIW"
629:Senior Athletes: Allen Steck
677:. Gripped. 24 February 2023
297:, first published in 1979.
177:In 1949, he climbed in the
780:
744:American mountain climbers
430:Climbing in North America
106:
65:
162:Steck began climbing in
131:Allen Steck was born in
749:American rock climbers
205:
197:
640:Steck, Allen (2017).
203:
195:
764:Sierra Club awardees
412:Sierra Club Bulletin
363:"Allen Parker Steck"
317:A Mountaineer's Life
301:Later life and death
291:American Alpine Club
222:Sierra Club Bulletin
27:Personal information
214:Steck-Salathé Route
133:Oakland, California
46:Oakland, California
23:
345:with Steve Roper.
206:
198:
113:Allen Parker Steck
520:. Sierra Magazine
110:
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57:February 23, 2023
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607:. Archived from
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518:"Career Climber"
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501:. Archived from
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265:St. Elias Range
164:Yosemite Valley
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75:Type of climber
70:Climbing career
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505:on 2018-10-20.
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428:Jones, Chris,
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276:North Palisade
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127:Mountaineering
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61:(aged 96)
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716:0-87156-292-8
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653:9781938340703
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646:. Patagonia.
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611:on 2009-10-24
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391:. 21 May 2015
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330:Jointly with
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254:Clyde Minaret
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218:Sentinel Rock
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137:Mount Maclure
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89:First ascents
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679:. Retrieved
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657:. Retrieved
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613:. Retrieved
609:the original
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522:. Retrieved
511:
503:the original
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471:Galen Rowell
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393:. Retrieved
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367:. Retrieved
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342:
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332:Norman Clyde
329:
321:
316:
315:His memoir,
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258:
251:
242:William Siri
231:
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210:John Salathé
207:
176:
174:since 1947.
161:
157:David Brower
153:Dick Leonard
130:
121:rock climber
112:
111:
97:Named routes
83:rock climber
59:(2023-02-23)
42:May 17, 1926
739:2023 deaths
734:1926 births
681:24 February
524:30 December
395:24 February
369:24 February
283:Steve Roper
281:Along with
261:Mount Logan
246:Sierra Club
183:Cima Grande
172:Sierra Club
145:Indian Rock
141:Sierra Club
117:mountaineer
79:Mountaineer
21:Allen Steck
728:Categories
659:22 October
615:2009-08-26
349:References
38:1926-05-17
338:in 1970.
187:Dolomites
473:(ed.).
185:in the
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650:
587:
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546:
481:
456:
436:
326:Legacy
287:Ascent
234:Makalu
204:Makalu
168:pitons
48:, U.S.
238:Nepal
712:ISBN
683:2023
661:2017
648:ISBN
585:ISBN
564:ISBN
544:ISBN
526:2009
479:ISBN
454:ISBN
434:ISBN
397:2023
371:2023
179:Alps
155:and
119:and
54:Died
32:Born
236:in
730::
416:32
414:.
387:.
159:.
123:.
81:,
685:.
663:.
618:.
593:.
528:.
487:.
399:.
373:.
40:)
36:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
